ChrisK89

You can use the Gunze thinners like their Mr. Color Thinner.
 
 
@Zero77
 
I had a hard time with Vallejo/AK Acrylics in the beginning, too.... especially with their darker colors. 
From my tries i learned the following:
 
1. NEVER use the 0.15mm Nozzle
2. Spray at ca. 0,8-1bar (15Psi)
3. Even if Vallejo says "no thinning needed" thin them.. darker paints a little more than their lighter paints. I mainly use the 0.2mm Evolution and for me the ratio 1 drop thinner for 2 drops paint +1drop Flow Improver works best.
  and don't forget.. if you mix in the cup ever use the thinner first.
4. When you experience a drop in paint flow.. use a scrap paper and "blow" the dried paint out of your tip. Afterwards it should work as a charme again for.. lets say 1-2minutes.
 
Even so you won't be able to work with them you are used to work with your Tamyia/Gunze paints... they always behave a little coarse but for complete coverage (no german mottling or very fine lines) they are great.
 
Be in mind that this is only what i experienced/learned... maybe its different from others advices but if you keep having trouble try it.
 
cheers Chris

I just ordered 2 Albatros D.V./D.Va "Jasta 5" kits for 330€ inclusive shipping. That makes 55€ per Albatros.. awesome deal! Can't wait for the end of july
 
cheers Chris

I just ordered 2 Albatros D.V./D.Va "Jasta 5" kits for 330€ inclusive shipping. That makes 55€ per Albatros.. awesome deal! Can't wait for the end of july
 
cheers Chris

I'll use the original WnW Lozenge decals on all my WnW models cause i don't like inconsistencies.. it looks pretty stupid to have so many different styles of fabric on my builds (just a personal opinion, no offense to anyone who is mixing the different manufactures).
Besides the WnW decals are great! They sure should be cause cartograf printed them but try to keep the decals as small as possible else it will be difficult to remove any bubbles etc.
 
 
cheers Chris

I envy you guys... unfortunately the Fokkers hasn't arrived in germany yet  
 
In the end they'll be stuffed in our treasure boxes and probably never be built but hey.. we need em NOW, right?
 
cheers Chris

I envy you guys... unfortunately the Fokkers hasn't arrived in germany yet  
 
In the end they'll be stuffed in our treasure boxes and probably never be built but hey.. we need em NOW, right?
 
cheers Chris

I finally got both cockpits done! I added Quickboost control sticks, Eduard interior PE sets + a lot of scratchbuilding and HGW Orlon Seatbelts. The Revi is still missing cause i don't know what to do.. I could use the Quickboost ones or i can use the Eduard PE to upgrade the kits gunsights.
Enough talking for now. Here are the pics:

 
Hmmm by looking at the pics it seems a bit too much wrecked up in there (dirt and scratches wise). Too late to change it now..
 
 
cheers Chris

I finally got both cockpits done! I added Quickboost control sticks, Eduard interior PE sets + a lot of scratchbuilding and HGW Orlon Seatbelts. The Revi is still missing cause i don't know what to do.. I could use the Quickboost ones or i can use the Eduard PE to upgrade the kits gunsights.
Enough talking for now. Here are the pics:

 
Hmmm by looking at the pics it seems a bit too much wrecked up in there (dirt and scratches wise). Too late to change it now..
 
 
cheers Chris

If you're really looking for something quiet, you should throw an eye on oil compressors. Werther compressors for example are very good but any oil compressor should do the job. I got myself a Werther SilAir 20A last year and i'm very happy.
 
 
cheers Chris

Little update on my 109s: I got the portside done today and now the cockpit is ready for some paint! I have to admit a few bits and cables are missing but i like it and it looks busy enough to me.
 

 
cheers Chris

Ah i was mistaken again.. sry for this! I guess I'm a little too tired today. I meant the picture you showed us where the 4 people are sitting on the engine cowl.
http://www.modelforum.cz/download/file.php?id=1202105
 
 
cheers Chris

Omg now i get what you meant with overpainted 1.. i thought you meant the complete other bird from the decal sheet (Red 1 from the top). Hahaha i never noticed the overpainted digit in front of the 7.
Sorry for the misunderstanding and with regards to that new discovery... just forget my mottling statement. Red/Blue 7 has enough for my taste.
 
Ah and another comes to my mind now.. in the first picture Hardcore showed us it seems the engine cover is slightly lighter than the rest of the fuselage.. could it be painted in RLM74/75/76?
 
 
cheers Chris

Okay i get it now! Thanks for all the input.
 
Summary is: Either Blue or Red 7 is okay, NO yellow nose and NO spiral, RLM84/99/whatever sides/fuselage etc. and most likely NMF or RLM76 underwings.
Regarding the darker fuselage crosses.. could it maybe be RLM77?
 
But why do you suggest overpainted Red1? I think its more boring cause it has nearly to none mottling.
 
 
cheers Chris

Thanks for the answers and informations regarding my questions!
 
@martinnfb  
I guess this plane on the picture is Red7 as it is shown in a really bad shape so maybe at the time it was Blue 7 it had the yellow nose and spiral? Ahh no worries.. with my rate of progress i have plenty of time to decide on the final finish.
 
@Hardcore
You're right.. they are very dark but on some photos of very late war K-4 you can see the dark fuselage crosses and i think i can remember reading somewhere they were oversprayed with RLM84 or RLM99 (you know the strange greenish RLM76 thingie everyone is breaking their necks about)
 
But i guess in the end i have to go with some artistic licenses
 
 
cheers Chris

Short update on my Bf109's.. i decided against using the Aires Cockpit. Instead i'm using the Eduard interior + scratchbuilding. I used the Aires Cockpit as a guide but i don't know if its 100% correct so i checked with some drawings i found and made some adjustments/compromises. Respectively this:

Starboard side and cockpit floor are now ready for painting! But first i have to build the portside and instrument panel.
 




 
cheers Chris

Yesterday i made a few adjustments to my PE and scratchbuilt parts on my Bf109 builds and noticed a very nice side effect of my Mr Cement glue. It can remove CA glue stains on mentioned metal/PE parts!
It's not working in an instant more like removing dried white glue or Micro krystal clear but it works and the Mr Cement doesn't leave any markings or residues on the parts and you needn't any scratching to remove any leftovers.
 
Don't know if this is already common knowledge to modellers but i'm pretty happy with this discovery.
 
 
cheers Chris

Yesterday i made a few adjustments to my PE and scratchbuilt parts on my Bf109 builds and noticed a very nice side effect of my Mr Cement glue. It can remove CA glue stains on mentioned metal/PE parts!
It's not working in an instant more like removing dried white glue or Micro krystal clear but it works and the Mr Cement doesn't leave any markings or residues on the parts and you needn't any scratching to remove any leftovers.
 
Don't know if this is already common knowledge to modellers but i'm pretty happy with this discovery.
 
 
cheers Chris

Yesterday i made a few adjustments to my PE and scratchbuilt parts on my Bf109 builds and noticed a very nice side effect of my Mr Cement glue. It can remove CA glue stains on mentioned metal/PE parts!
It's not working in an instant more like removing dried white glue or Micro krystal clear but it works and the Mr Cement doesn't leave any markings or residues on the parts and you needn't any scratching to remove any leftovers.
 
Don't know if this is already common knowledge to modellers but i'm pretty happy with this discovery.
 
 
cheers Chris

Yesterday i made a few adjustments to my PE and scratchbuilt parts on my Bf109 builds and noticed a very nice side effect of my Mr Cement glue. It can remove CA glue stains on mentioned metal/PE parts!
It's not working in an instant more like removing dried white glue or Micro krystal clear but it works and the Mr Cement doesn't leave any markings or residues on the parts and you needn't any scratching to remove any leftovers.
 
Don't know if this is already common knowledge to modellers but i'm pretty happy with this discovery.
 
 
cheers Chris

I'd ALWAYS prefer quality over quantity. For me it would be a shame to look at my models and think "hmm these could have been done much better" and i guess that is the reason why im a very slow in completing models + have redone 4 models (out of 9).
 
cheers Chris

Judging from the pictures on the WnW website the decals are already pre cut to the correct shape but i would recommend to cut them into much smaller pieces... it makes it much easier to let them settle without any bubbles or wrinkles especially on the curved wing pieces. I had to learn the hard way as i needed nearly 2 months just to put all the decals on and remove all bubbles, wrinkles etc. on my Pfalz.
 
I tried many things with them on my Pfalz D.XII build and the solution WnW recommends to us is to use a hairdrier/heat but that hasn't really worked for me. Instead i used all kinds of setting solutions (micro sol, mr setter/softer and the decal stuff from AK) and every one of them worked equally well.
 
What you recognized as oversized is actually the cover for the leading edges, at least on the Pfalz D.XII. If your decals for the Hansa are indeed oversized then i would recommend to lay the decals according to the plans and let them settle. Afterwards you can use a sharp knife to cut them along the leading edge or just sand em very lightly.. the dried non sticky decals are very brittle and you shouldn't have any problems to remove the outsticking pieces.

Judging from the pictures on the WnW website the decals are already pre cut to the correct shape but i would recommend to cut them into much smaller pieces... it makes it much easier to let them settle without any bubbles or wrinkles especially on the curved wing pieces. I had to learn the hard way as i needed nearly 2 months just to put all the decals on and remove all bubbles, wrinkles etc. on my Pfalz.
 
I tried many things with them on my Pfalz D.XII build and the solution WnW recommends to us is to use a hairdrier/heat but that hasn't really worked for me. Instead i used all kinds of setting solutions (micro sol, mr setter/softer and the decal stuff from AK) and every one of them worked equally well.
 
What you recognized as oversized is actually the cover for the leading edges, at least on the Pfalz D.XII. If your decals for the Hansa are indeed oversized then i would recommend to lay the decals according to the plans and let them settle. Afterwards you can use a sharp knife to cut them along the leading edge or just sand em very lightly.. the dried non sticky decals are very brittle and you shouldn't have any problems to remove the outsticking pieces.

Little update on my 109s: I got the portside done today and now the cockpit is ready for some paint! I have to admit a few bits and cables are missing but i like it and it looks busy enough to me.
 

 
cheers Chris

Little update on my 109s: I got the portside done today and now the cockpit is ready for some paint! I have to admit a few bits and cables are missing but i like it and it looks busy enough to me.
 

 
cheers Chris

Little update on my 109s: I got the portside done today and now the cockpit is ready for some paint! I have to admit a few bits and cables are missing but i like it and it looks busy enough to me.
 

 
cheers Chris