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AlexM

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  1. Like
    AlexM got a reaction from Kagemusha in Calling German members.   
    PM sent
  2. Like
    AlexM reacted to Lietsalmi in 1:32 Douglas A-26 Invader from Trumpeter/Hobbyboss?   
    This is my first posting to the forum so, please, treat me kindly if I don't know exactly how to behave in the beginning. All the puppies and newbies need a hug first. 

    I got my Hobby Boss A-26B Invader yesterday and I quickly reviewed the instructions and all the sprues and compared them with actual A-26 blueprints and historical photos. And to my great relief, it seems that it is not that difficult to make the most needed corrections to make this kit replicate the actual A-26B really well. Of course, to make it 100% accurate you would need to change the cross-section of the fuselage, etc. but to my eye that drastic corrections are not needed to create a very accurate kit.

    So here are those points that I think need modifications and what I am planning to do with them:
    Engines: As it has been said many, many times before, there are a few cylinders missing.  But I think there is a quite simple and cost effective solution to that. The kit has cylinder rows molded in four parts (front row front and back sides, and back row front and back sides). All the other parts except these look good. So I will cast two resin parts (the two cylinder rows) that will match the other engine parts of the kit so they will be just easy replacements of the four kit parts. And then I will make those for both engines. With that there will not be a need to replace the whole engines, just the cylinder rows. Quite easy and very cost efficient compared to full resin engines. Engine cowlings: Now that I have seen the actual parts they look actually quite good to me. So I am planning to use them as they are. Missing lower turret: The lower turret is missing and the shape of that area of the fuselage is not as curved as it should be. And again, not that difficult of a solution: I will cut out that bottom fuselage area along the panel lines and with the cut out pieces I will create a new part out of resin that has a hole and a railing for the turret and is also more properly shaped. Then I will also copy the top turret with resin and use that for the lower turret as well (and maybe I will sand the kit top turret before that in order to improve the shape a bit). For the lower turret guns I will use spare nose guns (see below). I also need to create a cradle for the lower turret if I want to make it turn. That shouldn't be that difficult either: a couple of pieces of styrene and a resin copy of one of the top turret cradle parts. The gunner position aft bulkhead is vertical in the kit but it should be slanted like in the actual plane, to allow the lower turret to fit in. To correct that I will simply extend and modify the kit bulkhead part (and maybe cast that in resin as well). In the end I will have a replacement resin lower fuselage part with a turret and guns. This will be very similar to what ICM has done with their 1/48 A-26B-15 kit. Canopy: The canopy framing is for the later bubble shape canopy but the canopy shape is for the earlier flat canopy. Solution? I will go with the earlier flat-style canopy and simply sand away the misplaced frames and paint the frames correctly for the earlier style canopy. If I dare, I will very carefully place some rivets to the new frames. This will then make it easy for me to decide which sub-version of the A-26B I will make: this canopy solution will make me go with A-26B 'early' or A-26B-15. Nose guns and the nose shape: The kit comes with 8 nose guns that is correct for a later version of A-26B. But I need to have a nose for the earlier version because of the canopy. Most early A-26B's had 6 nose guns. So I will fill the existing nose gun holes and, once that is done, I might sand the nose part a bit to make it appear more square. Then I will drill new holes in proper places for the six nose guns. And now I will have two extra guns that I can use for the lower turret. Economical! Probably there is no need for a resin nose part because this is such a simple modification. 
    Cockpit: The kit cockpit is correct for the Korean War era or Vietnam War era Invaders but is not right for the early A-26B's. There should be only one pilot seat and control stick/wheel and the dashboard should be only on the pilot side. Also the middle console should extend all the way back to the cockpit bulkhead. And various bits and pieces are missing. Well, this will be anyone's taste how much effort they want to put in here. I will remove the right hand side seat and the stick, cut the dashboard and scratch build the middle console extension and add wires, radios, jump seat, etc. Update: I mistakenly had looked at only the separate cockpit parts and did not notice that the cockpit floor part actually has that middle console extension. So no need to scratch build that.
    Little bits: The kit doesn't have the top periscope, the pitot tube on the left side of the nose and the loop antenna, which is typical for the early version of the A-26B (the kit has the 'football' antenna, which some earlier versions and all of the later versions had). On the belly side there are a couple of antennas(?) that early versions did not have. Well, this is typical model building: check your references and decide which little bits and pieces you need and which you don't. I will (again) make a resin copy of the lower periscope and use that for the top periscope. The pitot tube is quite easy to scratch build. And the loop antenna is that typical 'Tamiya staple' treat. The plane that I will make did not have the belly antennas so I will not use them. Decals: All of the decals in the kit are for later demonstration/tanker planes. So I will laser print my own decals unless there will be some nice after-market decals coming soon. So this is it for me! After all, not that difficult. At least a lot easier than the needed wing and turret modifications that I am planning in horror for my B-24J Liberator 42-99990 'Short Snorter'.
     
    There will be quite a few resin parts that I will make so if anyone is interested I might cast a few extra ones.
     
    By the way, the instructions say that there is 150 grams of nose weight needed. A lot! But fortunately not as much as is needed for the mighty B-24 Liberator.
  3. Like
    AlexM got a reaction from Francis in 3D drawing programs   
    Hi Francis,
     
    check out this thread about 3d printing:
     
    https://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?/topic/70571-3d-printing/
     
    Cheers
    Alex
  4. Haha
    AlexM got a reaction from Thomas Lund in Infinity Models - new German bomber? Do-17Z or Do-217 or He-177?   
    Do-17 for me, please. I find the He-177 has a rather unattractive appearance. I also have the fear that the thing could suddenly go up in flames, and I am not particularly keen on an apartment fire. Probably wouldn't stop me from buying it, though
  5. Like
    AlexM got a reaction from Troy Molitor in Infinity Models - new German bomber? Do-17Z or Do-217 or He-177?   
    Do-17 for me, please. I find the He-177 has a rather unattractive appearance. I also have the fear that the thing could suddenly go up in flames, and I am not particularly keen on an apartment fire. Probably wouldn't stop me from buying it, though
  6. Haha
    AlexM got a reaction from Kagemusha in Infinity Models - new German bomber? Do-17Z or Do-217 or He-177?   
    Do-17 for me, please. I find the He-177 has a rather unattractive appearance. I also have the fear that the thing could suddenly go up in flames, and I am not particularly keen on an apartment fire. Probably wouldn't stop me from buying it, though
  7. Like
    AlexM reacted to levier in 1/32 Marauder   
    NMUSAF was particularly inaccurate in their older "restorations."  Not a good source.  If you look at pics in various cockpit publications, the have indiscrimiately sprayed interiors (eveything) with green chromate color.
     
    More recent work there may be better.
  8. Like
    AlexM reacted to CANicoll in 1/32 Marauder   
    Alex,  Hope the connection with Leighton proved fruitful.  Have you seen these pics:
    https://www.nationalmuseum.af.mil/Visit/Museum-Exhibits/Fact-Sheets/Display/Article/196275/martin-b-26g-marauder/
    Not Flak-Bait but another B-26.
     
    Good luck!
    Chris
  9. Like
    AlexM got a reaction from brahman104 in HK B-17...C!!!!!!!! 21/6 exhausting work   
    Very interesting! There will be some heavy surgery, but I can understand that after all the work so far, you really want to get it right
     
    Cheers
    Alex
  10. Like
    AlexM reacted to brahman104 in HK B-17...C!!!!!!!! 21/6 exhausting work   
    Many thanks Gentlemen, it is indeed good to be able to start moving again with this build!
     
    Here's where we stand with the new nose mockup....
     

     

     

     

     
    It's hard to portray in the photos, but I think you can see the difference. The cockpit/roof relationship on my original is just too "boxy" compared to the new effort. I like the sharpness the brass gave, but at the end of the day if it's wrong it's wrong. I always put things like this down not as wasted time, but valuable R&D so I hopefully don't make the same mistake twice!
     
    The next step is to produce each side in resin, then set about removing the existing fuselage. Funny, I was helping a mate renovate his house today and spent a few hours demolishing an old shower recess...... that's exactly what this feels like! Before anyone panics though, I will NOT be using a crowbar on my model .
     
    See you in a bit.
     
    Craig
     
     
     
     
  11. Like
    AlexM reacted to brahman104 in HK B-17...C!!!!!!!! 21/6 exhausting work   
    Wow, almost 6 months to the day since my last post!
     
    What's been happening? Unfortunately not much on the fort,  but we'll get to that in a minute.
     
    In the last 6 months I have:
     
    Left the Australian Army after 20 years of service,
    Done a stack of work to the house to get it ready to sell,
    Uprooted our life and everything we own and moved to New Zealand,
    Set up a new life,
    Sold the house,
    Joined the Air Force to do the same job!
    Squeezed everything we own 3 bedroom and 1 large workshop's worth of stuff into a very small 2 bedroom single garage house.
     
    It doesn't really seem like much to write it, but it's been hectic, which is why I've only just been getting some much needed modelling time in in the last few days. I was terrified of all my carefully packed up modelling gear getting destroyed in the move (we all know how careful moving companies aren't) but luckily the huge amount of prep work I'd done paid off. The really annoying part is that as a lot of my supplies were considered dangerous cargo, I had to ditch them and buy again once in the country.
     
    I've been living vicariously through the rest of you making progress on your various projects and always inspired, especially by Peter's stunning Mustang, I decided to explore the possibility of modifying my work on the E/F nose correction to see if I could use it as the basis for a better C/D nose. I know Terry had warned me not to do this but after looking at the comparison photos with all 3 lined up beside each other, I just wasn't happy with the shape of the C and it's rather oversized nose. After all, my main goal in this whole project was to achieve "the look!"
     
    Additionally, I found a heap of errors in my E/F drawings that would cause issues in the printing, so I'll be going back to fix them in time. Anyway, on with the pics!
     

     
    As I'd lost the lower part of the original nose at some point (and it was a G anyway) I had to add the lower part, modify the length of the E/F and add the extra cockpit window.
     

     
    Adding the cutout for the observer's dome (which I'll be able to use from my previous work so that's a bonus!)
     
    Onto the print. These are rough for checking my work. I'll do them in resin on the photo once I'm happy.
     

     
    Here you can see the existing E/F and then the new C/D below. 
     

     
    Laid over the top of my previous work. Looks like everything will line up as far as grafting onto the HK fuselage. The new nose is more correctly shorter than my previous effort too!
     

     
    This was what really kicked off the redesign. Have a look at the size difference between my part and the kit (surprisingly HK got this pretty close to correct). I know it would've bothered me later, so there was really nothing for it but to redo it.
     

     
    Please excuse the F nose cone, just taped on here to show that everything lines up so much better than my previous work!
     

     
    The next step will be to start trying to separate the outer shell from the cockpit "tub." I am hoping that I can reuse that without too much effort as that and the instrument panel do look good and have been a huge amount of work that I really don't want to do again, so here's hoping I can pull it off.
     
    Wish me luck!
     
    Cheers,
     
    Craig
     
  12. Like
    AlexM reacted to sandbagger in 1:32 scale - Port Victoria P.V.7 'Grain Kitten'   
    Hi all,
    The last few models I've built, including the Macchi M.5 I'm currently working on, have all proved to be a challenge in one way or another.
    So while I'm waiting for decals to arrive, I thought I'd start on what will effectively be an 'out of the box' (OOB) build, mainly due to there being no information available on this one-off prototype.
     
    The aircraft is the very small Port Victoria P.V.7 'Grain Kitten', a resin kit from 'Planet Models'.
    In an attempt to break the stalemate on the Western Front, the German Imperial Navy commenced air raids on England, first against military then later civilian targets.
    The first attack came on the night of 19th January 1915 when the German Zeppelin L3 attacked and bombed Great Yarmouth on the Norfolk coast, resulting in the death of two civilians.
    That same night another Zeppelin attacked Kings Lynn and two more people died.
    Public outrage provoked the government to introduce measures to counter the Zeppelin air raids, however anti-aircraft guns proved ineffective, as the airships flew too high and were able to shut down their engines and glide, making detection from the ground extremely difficult.
    The Admiralty put forward the idea that aircraft, launched from decks on ships or from floating and towed pontoons, could intercept and destroy the airships over the sea, preventing the wreckage falling over land and causing more damage and casualties.
    This prompted designs for lightweight fighters that were capable of being ‘sea’ launched.
    The Port Victoria P.V.7 ‘Grain Kitten’ was a prototype fighter designed and built by the Port Victoria Marine Experimental Aircraft Depot on the Isle of Grain.
    The aircraft was a very small and light weight tractor biplane, intended to fulfil the Admiralty requirements and was designed by W.H. Sayers.
    The wings were of the ‘sesquiplane’ configuration, the lower wing being much smaller than the upper wing.
    The wings featured the same high-lift section as used in previous Port Victoria aircraft and were fitted with ailerons only on the upper wing.
    It was intended to use a 45 hp (34 kW) geared ABC Gnat two-cylinder air-cooled engine and the armament was a single Lewis gun mounted above the upper wing.
    The P.V.7 first flew on 22 June 1917, powered by a 35 hp (26 kW) ABC Gnat engine, as the intended engine was not available.
    The official trials took place on the 6th of October 1917 but the P.V.7 proved to be tail heavy in the air and difficult to handle on the ground and the sesquiplane layout and high lift wings were c onsidered not to be suitable for such a small aircraft.
    In addition, the Gnat engine proved to be extremely unreliable, with test flights being forced to remain within gliding distance of an airfield, in case of engine failure.
    The P.V.7 was rebuilt with new wings of conventional aerofoil section, a modified tail and a new undercarriage to eliminate some of the problems found in testing.
    However, the low power and unreliability of the Gnat engine prevented the P.V.7 being suitable for its intended use and the P.V.7 was never flown again after it was rebuilt.
    In June 1917 the German military stopped using Zeppelins for bombing raids over Britain. 
    Although a tremendous psychological weapon, they had actually caused little damage to the war effort.
    Of  115 Zeppelins built, 77 had either been shot down or otherwise totally disabled.
    Instead, air raids continued but using aircraft, such as the Gotha.
     
    Crew: One
    Length: 14 ft 11 in (4.55 m)
    Upper wingspan: 18 ft 0 in (5.49 m)
    Lower wingspan: 12 ft 7 in (3.84 m)
    Height: 5 ft 3 in (1.60 m)
    Wing area: 85 sq ft (7.9 m2)
    Empty weight: 284 lb (129 kg)
    Gross weight: 491 lb (223 kg)
    Engine:  ABC ‘Gnat’ air cooled two-cylinder horizontally-opposed piston engine, 35 hp (26 kW)
    Performance:
    Maximum speed: 85 mph (137 km/h, 74 kn) at 6,500 ft (2,000 m)
    Service ceiling: 11,900 ft (3,600 m)
    Time to altitude: 22 min to 10,000 ft (3,000 m)
    Armament:
    A  single .303 inch Lewis machine gun, located above upper wing.
     
    Mike 
     

     

  13. Like
    AlexM reacted to waroff in Breguet 691 / 693, project 1/32 scale resin   
    Some parts will be in 3D resin printing,
    example the propeller blades Ratier, clockwise and counterclockwise
     
    still wet, just after printing and before wash



     
     
     
     
    dry and after post curing
     

  14. Like
    AlexM reacted to waroff in Breguet 691 / 693, project 1/32 scale resin   
    Thanks Maru,
     
     
     
    I duplicate the master of the canopy to have a homogeneous piece, the work will be easier to get a better result. I drill several holes that will receive brass rods.

     
     
    These rods(0,3 mm dia) removed from the future mold give vaccum vent holes.
    It's the same work as for the 1/48 FM  canopy(below)
    .

    I try several material to made vacuformed canopies, the best is plexiglas sheet but it's more expensive than petg and styrene sheets.
    Tomorow,  I will make the mold, the frame is ready.
     
    ....
     
  15. Like
    AlexM got a reaction from Starfighter in 1/32 ERA-3B Skywarrior - 3D printed / scratchbuilt   
    Very nice printed details
     
    Cheers
    Alex
  16. Like
    AlexM got a reaction from airscale in 1/18 P51C Mustang "Lopes Hope the 3rd"   
    That's just unreal how real your model looks. Mindblowing
     
    Alex
  17. Like
    AlexM reacted to Starfighter in 1/32 ERA-3B Skywarrior - 3D printed / scratchbuilt   
    It's probably getting a bit boring but it's all I can show at the moment... I have finished the basic structure of the A_LORAN console behind the Plane Captain's seat. New side consoles for Pilot and Navigator are ready as well. Next, I will draw and print the fron IP before I can get back to some 'real modelling. 
     

     

     
    And the one with a ruler requested by Mark. 
     

  18. Like
    AlexM reacted to Starfighter in 1/32 ERA-3B Skywarrior - 3D printed / scratchbuilt   
    I forgot the mm ruler for Mark, sorry for that... here comes the other side of the cockpit. I am still looking for photos of a fully equipped rack behind the navigator's seat and the rear portion of the side console which in my opinion was covered with a fabric. If anyone has photos of it, I would highly appreciate if you would share them!  
     

     

  19. Like
    AlexM reacted to Dandiego in XB-51 Dragon   
    More scribing.
     

     

     

     
    Dont know what these are but....here they are.
     

     
    Have worked on the transparencies. Round starboard window, overhead window and nose camera window.
     

     

     
    Dan
     
     
  20. Like
    AlexM reacted to Dandiego in XB-51 Dragon   
    Working on the rudder and elevators.
     
    Lots of fiddling to get these things close to right.Stay tuned.
     

     

     
    Dan
  21. Like
    AlexM reacted to Dandiego in XB-51 Dragon   
    Ok a little work on the fin top bullet fairing.
     
    This has been harder than it looks. I at first thought that I could just carve it out of wood, create a slot that would fit over the tail and be done with it. Ah....no. Too many variables, it just would not fit right or straight. So I decided to create the part on my 3D printer. I designed the middle section in 2 halves. This allowed me to easily define the fairing/ tail interface by simple sanding. I then glued on the wooden ends that I had already completed. Still lots of fine tuning to do.
     

     

     

     

     
    Thanks for looking.
     
    Dan
  22. Like
    AlexM reacted to Dandiego in XB-51 Dragon   
    Adding vents and scoops to the engine nacelles. I have used manila folder card stock to bend the shapes. They are then glued to the nacelle with super glue.
     

     

     
    Dan
  23. Like
    AlexM reacted to Fanes in Bf 110E-3/trop 2.(H)/14 North Africa - almost done   
    The antenna mast - part 2
    Well it's done and glued onto the canopy but its predecessor hasn't submerged.
    Here it is:

     
    The wire is made from elastic thread (Uschi's fine rigging thread). The insulators were done with a drop of superglue followed by a blob of white glue, which didn't adhere to the thread on its own. The cone was made from 0.2mm sheet smash moulded over a sharpened tooth pick.
    That's it from me - the next post will (finally) be in the RFI section.
     
    Cheers
    Joachim
  24. Like
    AlexM reacted to Madmax in A6M2b Zero - shades of grey   
    It's all about scale isn't it Woody? Like trying to punch out 1:48 instrument decals... 
     
    Thanks to Ryan's paint input, I got down to finding what worked for me in Tamiya "acrylic" paint, since it is tough and readily available over here. I liked the idea of using XF-76 Grey Green (IJN) as a base since it is after all what Tamiya's researchers thought was the right colour. It isn't, but with a bit of help comes quite close. Ryan tried a mix with XF-49 Khaki, and I took a look at that - too brown to my eye. Then I looked at other options for a mix, and liked the warm tone of XF-60 Dark Yellow. At a mix of 2 parts 76 to 1 part 60 and half a part of white I found what I was looking for. Simple. The grey for the fabric covered surfaces is 1 part 76 to one part white - even more simple. Here with tungsten and natural light for comparison... 
     

     

     
    Normally I would do the wheel wells first, but this seemed a better solution for the zero.
     
     
     
    This is the colour of the aircraft primer, which I only used on the spinner hoping to do some light chipping. Doesn't seem to work with Alclad by the way!
     

     
    And this is what the greys look like more or less - difficult to capture the real colours on camera. Looking at the second picture, a question for the experts: Would the electrical cables and pitot air lines in the wheel well be overpainted in Aotake? If not, what colours would they be?
     

     

     
    I was also wondering about the red paint. Would it be painted straight onto the grey, or under-painted to make the red brighter?
     

     

     
    Finally got down to the Hōkoku, and realised that Ryan had provided the perfect picture to make a tracing from!
     

     
    In doing the tracing, I discovered an interesting thing about the lettering. It would appear that it is painted on by brush, and therefore by hand - like a signwriter would do! I had pictured stencils and spray paint, but the way it has faded shows the brushstrokes as well as what I think were taped lines to get the edges straight. The characters are not totally uniform or symmetrical either. I have tried to straighten it all up a bit to make it easier to cut a stencil and or produce a decal. Methinks it is going to be rather tricky to do!
     
     
     

  25. Like
    AlexM reacted to blackbetty in Vietnam Hun "nashville sound" FINISHED   
    assembled the videoaviation 750lb Bombs with (trumpy) fuse extenders and unfinned BLU 27s. havent found a pic with a Hun loaded with capless napalm canisters, only F-4s, but i like them better that way

     
    main gear has been shortened 2mm to make the bird sit right

    tried a little metal effect paint on the back end of the fuselage. on a lot of pics i have this is pretty dark, so i tried to capture the effect accordingly


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