Vitali

Really nice! Great detail you are adding to it.

Really impressive work! I'm really liking what you have done.

Makes perfect sense to me and the best way to extract multiple releases out of one kit.

Man, I'd sell nearly every kit I have for an F-111C and I really like and F-111B Also!

That's an AGM-78. Harold makes some really nice examples and I will be buying a set soon for my A-6E. Interesting to see the AGM-78 with GP Bombs on the other pylon. Nice photo by the way.

Really nice! It looks like one well used Rufe that has been Island hoping for a long time. Well done!

Danny, there was no top ejection seat handle on the Escapac seat used in the Streak Eagle. If you enlarge the photo you can see clearly. The F-15 prototypes that used the Escapac seat also didn't have them. Great work by the way and makes me want to build one as it's the only Eagle that I like.

I'll definitely be in for the Tomcat figure. 

The leopard has the be the best MBT presently! The Aussie's liked the early leopards better than the current M1 Abrams that they use.

Thanks, I will. I have the same decals also. I do have an entire CVW-14 airwing to build in 72 scale of the VF-1/VF-2 first cruise on the Big E. Really good build article you have going.

Really nice work mate! I also have two 48 scale F-14's to build, VF-1 and VF-2 first cruise on the Enterprise.

Nice work Brain, I like it and it's coming along nicely.

Hear, hear.
Max

Very brave men and we'll never see another generation like them.Because of them, we are here and free today!

The Kingfisher in 32nd is surprisingly long, and "torpedo-plane-esk" when you add the engine and cowling on. I was kinda shocked, and really didnt realize with the flaps and ailerons on how deep the wing was either.
 
Overall not a huge airplane, but I do think we need some more float-planes in this scale!     A Mariner WOULD be super cool........................but Id REALLY evacuate some purple and blue bunnies if I could ever get my hands on a BV-138 in 32nd!
 

Good work on the F-4. Just a note the in flight refueling door should be flat and not bulged as depicted on the Tamiya kit. It should follow the contours of the outer skin of the air frame. maybe to late to do anything about it as it's just one of my little pet peeves with this kit.

Ive been thinking a LOT about how well, or badly the clear parts might fit, so decided to get a start on fitting it all.
I started off by clipping all the clear parts off of their clear sprue................there are in fact a LOT of clear canopy parts, and that spells danger for me, as I do NOT have a great track record with clear parts, and KHM clear parts have a history with me of being slightly on the brittle side. Not terrible by any means, but I needed to be EXTRA cautious.
 
The amazing thing is not only (so far) did I manage to clip them off the sprue without mucking them up too badly, but they ALL fit, and actually WORK like the real deal. This is pretty much right out of box with not much trimming and 0 filling.................not too shabby at all me thinks.
Bare in mind this is all just setting there, with 0 glue and 0 pressure holding anything in place..................
 
All the parts even fit well enough together to make a completely closed up model if you so desire:
 

 

 

 
 
 
 
OR, of you prefer, opened up with the gun in place like I plan to do (and also plan on possibly making the gun removable; maybe):
 

 

 

 
 
 
 
Next it was time to think about the best way to attach the center float, to get things 100% aligned, and I think I found it. I assembled the beaching gear which fit REALLY well, and quite tight with no glue holding the gear to the float, nor any holding the wheels to the gear.
 
The OOB IM weighted wheels are a nice touch IMHO:
 

 
 
 
 
Then I simply took some stackable artists pyramids that I normally use to help calculate CG and nose weight, and just moved them to identical positions on the wing side to side, and then just slide them back in unison until the model was supported in the exact same place on each wing by 5 pyramids and voila! you have a perfectly 90 deg aligned float on the model................
 
Whos a pretty girl then!:
 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
Ive not glued ANY of this in yet, as I still need to finish a boo-coo load of finish sanding before the float goes on, but all in all, I think this method will keep things very stable and reliably straight until the epoxy dries, as I plan to secure the main float with JB weld to get the strongest possible bond I can.
 
All for now gents, but Im back and the fisher tonight and likely tomorrow too.....................
 
Cheers till ur older then! 

SEA wrap-around first appeared widely in 1981 but there existed a few trials F-4Es at Ramstein in late 1978 IIRC.
 
The first Europeane One camo F-4 I saw was in late 1983. It didn't use the same greens as the A-10 - just SEA wrap-around with the 30219 tan replaced by grey.
 
Hill Gray I started in 1986 IIRC using the same three greys as the F-16. The two-tone Hill Gray II scheme was trialled at the same time at Ogden ALC and the USAF chose HGII.
 
You need to remember that PDM depot-level overhauls (when most resprays was accomplished) occurred on F-4E/Gs only every 54 months in the mid-1980s. So, barring resprays on base because of paintwork deterioration, aircraft could theoretically retain the same scheme for over four years after a scheme changed.
 
HTH
 
Tony

Thanks, Jack, it was a lot of fun, and a bit of a learning experience too.
 
 
Interesting question. Since I don't actually have one here (a sad reality that I just discovered yesterday). As far as memory serves, he's about 3" high, and base is about 7" diameter.
 
 
The typical "gunfighter leaning" pose.
 
 
Cool.
 
 
Assuming my caster hasn't raised his rates, they'll be $40 each + $6 shipping, CONUS, with shipping elsewhere determined by location. On feebay, they'll be somewhat higher (probably $5 or so), to help offset the redundant fees incurred when selling that way.

me too unfortunately. Hes just a bit much for me to take, when I have some of the models hes disparaging so heavily.   That's only my humble opinion only though, others mileage may vary. 

I stopped following Flory's videos a long time ago.
 
Kev

Some of Phils vids can be very enlightening, and even informative............................some others however come off very holier-than-thou, and he comes off as a bit of a jack-a$$.
 
I do like the informative nature of the vids, its just his delivery sometimes leaves me a bit put off. 

As Steve said above, much better to use a donor kit. You'll not have to worry about shrinkage and such as you will with a resin copy.

Mark, What kind of paint is under the clear coat? If you used enamels, a little diluted ammonia should remove the Tamiya acrylic without harming what's beneath.

I hate it when you get so far along and the finish line is in sight and then wham, two steps back. I would say humidity is the likely culprit. Hang in there you can fix it.