Fenous

I have the set from Gunze C for Shiden, before I used C327, which to C385 looks almost identical compared side by side.

This is how it looks now, unfortunately debris from sanding entered the cockpit and canopy is dirty from inside, correction is impossible, because it`s strongly bonded with 2 part epoxy glue, the canopy was wrapped and didn`t fit.

Some pictures of my very Spanish FW, it`s my first time with oils, so it is maybe too much, but I`m still learning. JG1 batch is completely airbrushed with masks and I`m very satisfied with the result.

Just to be clear - SH Tempest is not short run kit.

I saw Flory models review for AK stuff, laughed when he tried masking, pulled out the mask and said that it worked flawlessly and there is huge piece of transparent foli remaining on the masking tape which he ripped off the canopy

Eduard is preparing some PE stuff and canopy masks and SH is coming with resin exhausts as extras. I`m picking my box on saturday from my LHS, really looking forward for it. There is no info what in Eduards general PE set will be, but second one is landing flaps.

Stripes on cowling followed:

More work done, repair of one underwing cross is necessary due to wrong masking, but this will be done with painting black stripes on cowling, which is next. Also bible about the most beutiful aircraft bought on Amazon for very reasonable price arrived and unexpected issue of Encyclopedia.

http://www.super-hobby.cz/products/Supermarine-Spitfire-Mk.IXc.html http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/image/10098579/10/0

Paintjob on the top of the wing started:

Pictures with masking removed.

Work with the rivets is great, I lost approximately half a dozen rivets while removing clear backing when applying them on entire airframe and none with masking tape, they stick perfectly.

Some masking done for control surfaces.

Some little progress

Bottom part and sides airbrushed.

Thanks to HGW master Mr. Bobek I can continue with Focke Wulf, tomorrow I will mask red stripe and start with RLM 76.

How does the placard look like? Wouldn`t it be the easiest way to trim the decal and remove clear surrounding before apply?

I don`t know, which parts you have in mind, but when I will add Barracuda resin parts to my Spitfire cockpit, I will strengthen the bonds with some pins made from stiff wire.

Microsol first, than the decal, suck excess Microsol with paper tissue or Q-tip and smooth it out with Q-tip, than wait, I left it usually overnight.

This is how it will look with fuselage closed.

Color is Gunze C302

Do not use setting solution, use the softening one instead, it`s stated in HGW instructions and I can assure you from my own experience it works.

FW-190 project is stalled, so I opened new box, something from Allies side for change. It will be Jug from Brazilian contingent in Italy from 1945 year. I have FCM decals, but I wont`t use majority of them and will make my own masks. I bought BigEd, and stripped most of the parts from color an glue, because I don`t like Eduards color quality. Used HGW seatblet, will for sure buy their stencils and also have Barracuda resin wheels and Master gun barrels. Cockpit is finished, riveting is next.

I use Gunze Mark Softer as suggested by HGW and have success with that, you can see in my FW-190 bulid

Did you use some decal softening solution before application? I have not experienced any problem with them yet.