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Everything posted by Juggernut

  1. No, that's not true. You can build a D-27, 28, 30 or 40 with what you get in the kit.
  2. The "Tarheel Hal" release has all four types of prop used on the P-47D, the needle blade Curtiss, the symmetrical blade Curtiss, the asymmetrical Curtiss and the Hamilton Standard paddle blade. The initial P-47D release has all but the asymmetrical Curtiss paddle blade prop if memory serves (I don't have that kit in my collection any more, I built it). The symmetrical Curtiss electric is correct for the vast majority of P-47M's, if not all of them.
  3. Yes and yes. However, what you get in the box can be made into different block number P-47D's. Different block numbered aircraft have different features such as but not limited to, corrugated vs. flat cockpit floor (P-47D-25 vs. P-47D-27 and later) and/or dive flaps (P-47D-30 and later) which will also include moving the landing light outboard to the wing tip. NOTE: The corrugated cockpit floor is not an option in the kit. In order to accurately build any P-47D-25/26, you'll need to install an aftermarket cockpit set with the corrugated floor; the remainder of the options are included in the kit. So, while the kit is the same as what's included in the regular P-47D kit, the markings you choose and the block number of the aircraft will dictate which options you will install on the kit and/or which aftermarket you will need to acquire (if any) depending on the level of accuracy you wish to achieve. The fin fillet is also included in the regular P-47D kit and was installed as a field modification on many P-47D-30 aircraft (and possibly earlier block aircraft) and onward until it was incorporated onto production line aircraft. I don't have serial number breaks for the factory fin fillet installation so you'll have to rely on references/source information for that. As an FYI: In your search for a suitable P-47D scheme, you may run across what's referred to as the P-47M. These aircraft were the "hotrod" jugs of the species and were the fastest of all production P-47's with a top speed of over 470 mph at 32,000 ft in war emergency power (faster than the P-51D Mustang). The P-47M on the outside is extremely similar to the P-47D-30/40 aircraft but came from the factory with no wing external hardpoints for ordnance or rocket rails. In theatre, the aircraft were modified to carry external fuel tanks under the wings but never carried bombs or rockets. There were approximately 127 (if memory serves) P-47M-1RE's built and all of them went to the 56th FG in England. They were delivered in natural metal finish around February 1945 but engine troubles kept them grounded until March/April 1945. These aircraft were painted by the 56th and wore very distinctive color schemes ranging from the traditional grey/green over natural metal to black over natural metal and two-tone blue over natural metal. The color scheme was dictated by which squadron the aircraft was assigned to. Very colorful aircraft and a lot of us are drawn to these aircraft because of it. You may be as well. However, in order to turn the regular P-47D kit into a P-47M requires one major visible modification. You need to replace the kit engine (or the prop reduction gearcase thereof) with what's called a C series gearcase. Without going into the differences between R-2800 engines ad nauseum, the P-47M gearcase is primarily round and studded with bolts whereas the regular P-47D prop reduction gearcase is bullet shaped. Replace that and you can effectively have yourself a P-47M.
  4. Engine grey, a dark grey is correct. I have no idea what H66 is so I cannot comment on it one way or the other.
  5. Thanks Doug, I'll definitely see what my camera is capable of. I took the photos under flourescent lighting in my basement without a flash so that may have a great deal to do with the resultant yellow.
  6. Well, here's some more minor progress....I have no idea on the colors of the details so I just went with what looked good. If it's right then great, if not, oh well. Below is a shot of the pilots seat. I painted the belts with the obligatory white and shaded it to give it some depth. Metal buckles are silver paint. Starboard Sidewall Port Sidewall R/O Position...again, detail painting is my best guesstimate based on contemporary photographs
  7. Which new kit would that be? To their credit, they have just released some newly tooled armor kits. If you're looking for new 1/32 aircraft kits, I think you'll be waiting a while longer. Nobody knows for sure what Tamiya is doing except a select few and they don't really say anything concrete and reliable until given the go ahead. People's guesses are just that, guesses, no matter what their source. If you look back at their former releases, I think you'll see that more than just a few of them had at least one year between their releases. Expecting them to release a new kit each and every year is grounds for disappointment. I'll be one of the first to champion any new 1/32 release by Tamiya, no matter what the subject and if it arrives in time for the 2014 holidays, that'll be great but I'm not expecting it.
  8. I would definitely use the Vector resin engines. Just an FYI, the P-61A/B used the R-2800 B series engines and would have the bullet shaped crankcase rather than the cylindrical bolted style characteristic of the C series engines. The P-61C did use C series engines but there are no 1/32 scale kits of that available.
  9. Is it me or does that F-4G resemble an F-4B with USAF camo? That illustration is entirely wrong for any F-4E/G aircraft (unless it's that extremely offbeat F-4G that they (McDonnell Douglas) made out of an F-4B?) I hope the plastic doesn't look like that.
  10. And therein lies the issue with many of us... "Local hobby shop". Since a great deal of us don't have access to such an establishment, we're forced to either order something online or make due with simple alternatives.
  11. Yes but be very careful if shaking the bottles as the bb's can crack the glass. Ask me how I know.
  12. The cockpits are pretty different between the two. wheels are completely different and some other things that I cannot remember off hand. Others will know more. Post a trade for the USMC J on the traders forum and see if anyone responds. There was a person looking for a C/D who had a J recently but don't know if he found one or not. worth a shot anyway.
  13. I would hand sand it keeping with the direction of the grain. I would use automotive paste wax and put at least two heavy applications on and buff the heck out of it. In the end, it should have almost a mirror finish. Keep that cloth clean and keep rotating it until it's dirty across the entire rag. Then get another rag and keep polishing until you've got what you want. Clean out the holes in the panel with a cotton ear bud (Q-tip in the US). As an added corrosion preventative, you might want to put a coat of primer on the back side of the panel that won't be seen. That's entirely up to you but over time, the back side, if left untreated will begin to show signs of corrosion. It'll show as white, chalky deposits on the surface of the aluminum and will eventually pit the surface. I don't think it'll be seeing any kind of weather so putting the primer on the backside is just a suggestion; the corrosion you may see will be very minor and would take years to pit the surface of the aluminum (unless your intended display space has a continually high relative humidity level). At the charter operation where I used to work, the guys would use polishing compound on the leading edges of our Gulfstream IV's to keep them polished up and shiny, like a mirror. The downside is that the guys would turn black from all the polishing and would have to shower afterward and get fresh clothes. One trip through any kind of precipitation, prolonged exposure to salt air or pollution would dull em up again so this was a continual battle.
  14. Hey guys, I just attempted to watch this review and I had to shut it down after a few minutes because I was annoyed. Sorry but just could not watch the review in its entirely....WAY TOO BORING and I like the subject and the kit. I would buy one except that it's in the wrong scale for me. I can still see well enough to build 1/32.... I am sorely tempted but it just won't look right in a display cabinet with the 1/32 stuff. I envy you guys who will actually build and display this single engined giant. If anyone ever offered this kit in my preferred scale, I'd be all over it like a hobo on a bologna sandwich.
  15. The A6M5 was painted in the two color green over grey and there's nothing else added in. Can you provide the photos that you are seeing different coloration of the paint? Remember, everything the human eye sees is based on shadows. (I got that from the show brain games on NatGEO) so any photograph, especially black and white photographs, are very difficult to tell subtle changes in coloration and/or hue. It has been proven that even contemporary color photographs cannot be relied upon to show the true coloration. Below are a couple of links to some research articles by James Lansdale, a noted Japanese aircraft researcher, that explains the basis for A6M coloration through historical documents and relic examination but you won't find anything based on photographs that I remember him referring to. http://www.j-aircraft.com/research/zeroclr.htm http://www.j-aircraft.com/research/jimlans1.htm Having said that, combat operations and exposure to the elements really puts a hurt on paint, especially in tropical or subtropical areas so the aircraft will most likely have missing/worn paint. The paint will also most likely be faded to a certain extent, matte finished (A6M's had semi-gloss paint from the factory from what I can tell) from exposure to the sun and may even be discolored in certain areas like proximity to exhaust pipes/heat. Also note that early A6M5's had an undercoat of primer whereas later A6M5a's, b's and c's probably did not. The Tamiya kit represents an early A6M5 so it would most likely have a coat of primer red underneath the green/grey finish coats. Also, any BDR patches will not be the same exact color as the surrounding paint if it's worn/faded so there is that aspect of color differentiation. HTH, Tim
  16. How deep are the scratches? If the scratches are less than, I'd say 0.005" deep then you can compound them out with a coarse grade polishing compound, then buff the panel with fine compound then wax and buff it. You'll most likely want to use a machine polishing wheel on the panel (at least for the initial compound) as hand compounding will be extremely time consuming and labor intensive. The other side of this is that the panel needs to be securely mounted on something (or in something) so that the buffing wheel won't catch it and cause it to fly (without an engine). When you apply and work the compound, it should turn to a dark grey/black color. That tells you it's working. If the scratches are more that 0.005" deep, then you'll probably want to sand them out using fine grade sandpaper (wet) 400-600 grit and then polish and buff as above noting that you may be able to skip the coarse polishing compound. NOTE: Prior to sanding the scratches, look closely at the aluminum; there should be a grain visible on the panel. You'll want to sand with the grain and not against it. When the panel is polished to your satisfaction, you may want to put a heavy coat of wax on it to keep it from oxidizing and turning dull (and it will).
  17. To be somewhat pedantic, they'd have to do a bit more than just combine the F and G sprues to get an early G unless they wanted to show an early G before it had been modified to combat readiness.
  18. I believe the later versions had more ground clearance from design changes.
  19. What happed to "I'm leaving the scale for everything except WWI cause I don't have the room"? Apparently not....
  20. As a fellow modeler who has purchased and built a few Trumpeter kits in the past, I will give you my opinion of their products. Their older kits are challenging to say the least, in terms of accuracy, fidelity of detail and assembly. Their later kits are much, much better and as been said, some of their releases are pretty damn good. Others, not so much. Personally, I won't buy any more Trumpeter kits until such time as they get their R&D down (for whatever reasons prevent them from getting it right) and raise their own bar. I am just not that modeler who fancies identifying and/or correcting all of a kits shortcomings; I'm getting too old to give a damn (but still do). Trumpeter has the technology to do it right, they just need the R&D card to knock one out of the park. Again, in my opinion, the Me262 (either the A or the B ) is the best kit they've produced to date. No kit released to date by any manufacturer is "issue free", including Tamiya but Trumpeter seems to be plagued with major shape/design issues in a portion of their releases. Should Trumpeter shift gears and put their money where the rubber meets the road, they can and will produce Tamiya quality kits.
  21. Just about every modeling site has a blurb about this person and his poor business practices.
  22. For those of you who're interested in fabric covering (and aircraft technical information in general) the following link is to one of the Mechanic study guides (Advisory Circular AC-65-15A) for a U.S. certificated aircraft mechanic. It explains a lot about dope and fabric and how/when to use the different tapes, etc. Please note that this information may or may not be applicable to the Spitfire as it is a U.S. document. Certainly the terminology used will vary between the two dialects. This book, accompanied by the other two in the series are used to teach aircraft mechanics in the U.S. and are what I used when I studied for my A&P Mechanic certificate. However, for what it's worth: http://www.faa.gov/documentLibrary/media/Advisory_Circular/AC_65-15A.pdf
  23. Well then, If the Airfix folks don't want the 1/32 market that's their choice. Oh well, it was a nice thought for a little bit. I'll just keep my money for something else like mmmmmm...... I don't know but whatever Tamiya has in store will most likely suffice.
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