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RichieB

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Everything posted by RichieB

  1. Hi Geedubelyer and thanks for watching, this version of the exhaust nozzles has the turkey feathers still in place. Good point though the original lip would have looked out of place (probably a scale 1.5 cm all round). However, I think I've left enough to give the impression of a small lip but we'll see! Thanks Maru, I hope your patience will be rewarded (eventually)!
  2. About time for an update... I've reassembled both intakes having cut them in half to making seam removing and painting easier and added the engine face at the rear. Have to say that bit worked out quite well and made the internal painting and a bit of light weathering (these were pretty new jets after all) pretty straightforward. Sorry the picture is not great, trying to find a depth of field where everything was in focus was the trickiest bit! In test fitting the resin exhausts I found the Revell kit back-end to be a tad wide creating a small but noticeable step
  3. Thanks for the info Bruce, this kit didn't come with a canopy so I bought a cheap 'Bicentennial edition' which did and that one is clear luckily. Of note, the bicentennial kit doesn't have any weapons or even the cradles for the sparrows!
  4. Many thanks for your comments chaps, Chek- great top tip, always looking for other source material. Maru5137 - thank you, it's slow but getting there. With added lighting you have to think 3 steps ahead as once you've glued it together its very difficult to add or correct.
  5. Just a very quick update to prove that (some) progress is being made! Gary at GT Resin kindly supplied me a replacement set for the exhausts as my originals had a flaw in them. New set looks great and is a leap above the detail provided by the Revell kit (far right). As this is an early bird, they still have the turkey feathers on. Each exhaust comes in three pieces and includes a separate flame holder (not shown), for ease of painting. After a bit of tidying up and spot of primer on them I'm just about ready to paint them up. This is the fun but slightly daun
  6. Whilst contemplating the front fuselage I decided to have a go at the intakes. These are notoriously challenging to remove the join seam and the revell ones are no different. To assist, I decided to glue them together then cut them in half. This achieved two things, firstly it made the job of creating a demarcation line between the main paint scheme (which extends into the intake) easier and secondly it meant I could access each bit of the join better. It pays to take care when cutting as the two halves have to 'seamlessly' fit back together again eventually. The back end was also shortened a
  7. You probably need a range from 0.25mm for fine lighting ie cockpit bulbs, 0.5 mm and 1 mm for instruments and nav lights. I have used 2mm for HUD and radar displays but not often. If need be you can always group fibre optics together but the smaller sizes are the easiest to bend, 1mm can be quite difficult to curve in tight spaces. In this case I slightly melt it. For stronger or larger light sources I'd use a suitably sized LED. Sometimes it just pays to experiment.
  8. Hi Neo, there are many places out there selling LEDs, some actually do whole wiring set-ups for a particular aircraft. I tend to design my own circuits just because it gives me some flex when I decide to change my mind or get it wrong! I've used different sellers but the one below is quite good as they supply very small but bright leds (pico) which are great for cockpits etc and larger LEDs with resistors already included (for engines etc), so you don't have to worry so much about balancing voltages from different coloured LEDs. They also do small flashing LEDs (for anti-cols) and I like their
  9. Thanks Neo, adding lighting certainly teaches you new skills! Top tip is to start with something you can fit lots of stuff into as space can become a premium depending on how you light and power it. Good luck!
  10. Hi folks, hope you're all keeping well. The wing tips required quite a lot of work to prep for lighting. Lots of thinning required to allow the electrics to fit and some careful carving of the lit areas that will be visible. You can also see the wingtip nav light in the prep stage as discussed previously. The good thing about EL panels are they are quite thin but you need to be quite conservative with how much you use as a 3v coin battery doesn't drive a large amount of it (typically <25cm for good brightness). I had to use two strips back to back so that the top and bottom illuminated but
  11. And so with the wings glued together it was time to fix the lighting. As with most of this kit, you start with a pretty blank canvas. Painting plastic to look like glass is quite a trick so if possible I revert to transparent plastic. First task is to cut the right shape from the plastic for which I used a sharp knife and some scraping tools. I next cut a chuck of plastic from an old toothbrush (as plastic sheet wasn't thick enough) and carefully cut it into a shape where one side fitted the gap where the light needed to go. The more accurate you can get this bit right
  12. Thanks for staying with this one chaps! Whilst I continue to finish and the top fuselage surface, in a rare moment of free time I thought I'd make some progress on the wings, or more the point, the wing lighting. F-15s have three lights on each wing and I've approached each differently for differing reasons. All of the light areas required considerable thinning of the plastic (which is quite thick on this kit) to make room for the light sources and especially the wiring. I also thinned the training edge while I was at it (a scale 4cm thick!). The wingtip formation lights need to ma
  13. Thanks Jake, spend a lot of time in your reference work!
  14. Hi everyone, hope you are all managing to stay safe (& sane!). Next up on the to-do list was scribing and rivet detail on the top surface as some of the Revell lines are wrong or missing, and there is no rivet detail. Just to add to the fun I decided to try and improve the somewhat 'soft' detailing around the vents. This was mainly helped with the addition of the F-15 vent set from GT Resin. Unfortunately they don't include the two main areas which is the one over the gun and the heat-exchanger behind the cockpit and these turned out to be a bit of a labour of love. I
  15. Many thanks Rob, that's the only problem with a blank canvas, lots of things to fill in!
  16. Finishing off the underside of the fuselage, the missile launchers have had some miniature magnets attached to allow the Aim-7s to be easily removed if required. Most of the early F-15s did not carry much in the way of weapons, usually an Aim-9J training round, so these will probably be left bare but it would be quite nice to load her up just to see what it would be like! I also drilled out and thinned the inlets at the bottom of the photo to make them a little more to scale and adding some tubing on the other side to give a sense of depth to the intake. Similar magne
  17. Stunningly detailed no wonder it’s taken so long!
  18. Most of the previous work was a precursor to tackling the fuselage halves. Using a mix of rivet spacing/styles I used the reference works by Jake Melampy and Daco, plus a fair smattering of Chuck's build pictures, to try and work out what rivet detail would show on an early F-15B. Needless to say the bare metal back end needs a fair amount of detail adding. The black wash is from Flory models and being water based is easy to remove. It's a bit more rough and ready than the pin washes but it shows up rough surfaces well so looks like I've got a bit of polishing off to do! I re
  19. Many thanks and will do Thor, just adding some changes to the bottom fuselage half which I'll share soon. The kit is not bad at all, just lacking in detail so if you're happy to put the effort in it's a lot cheaper than the Tamiya F-15 kits and a lot closer to an actual B model.
  20. Many thanks for the very kind words Maru, more soon hopefully!
  21. And so the application of hundreds and hundreds of rivet holes continues ..... Having acquired a copy of the Daco F-15A book (which is superb by the way), I have come to realise that this bird is absolutely covered in the dam things. An element of artistic license will have to be applied in order to preserve sanity as in reality most are hard to see unless the aircraft in question has been heavily maintained or badly needs a paint job. To that aim I've adopted a 2-stage process where obvious rivets (like those on the base of the fin) are made a touch more prominent using a hand rivet tool
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