Hardcore

Maybe we need a sticky for this.

Got my decals for the build. It is peddinghaus late war markings in 1/48 Scale. The decals looks nice but are not contour cut. Something to keep in mind if you want to purchase from PH. I chose the sheet that gave me most crosses so that I have plenty of markings for my toon projects. Since they are something of what-if projects to begin with i don't bother much with getting markings right. ^^ Gloss varnish and all the setting solutions I got was used to make the decals conform to the zimmerit. Hopefully it will look OK after the flat varnish I will apply later. I am still looking for a good wooden base to make a Diorama. The idea is to make something like that well known photo of tigers parked under trees in Normandy. In other news is my successful test of a plastic Primer for a slaver-1 i am working on. The plastic is not styrene but some pvc. (it is a toy) The Primer is transparent but with some metallic in it to make it more visible. It stuck really hard to the plastic. (not shown) That's all for now. Thanks for looking!

A new book? Sounds interesting.

It's been a while since his last one http://theprofilepaintshop.blogspot.com/?m=0

From Tamiyas website: 【 Smooth the Paints 】　 This paint retarder will make acrylic paint dry slower, enabling a smoother finish. It can be used up to a 1:10 ratio with Tamiya Acrylic Paints. It helps to lessen the chance oｆ painting a grainy surface on your model. Also, it is ideal for painting glossy finish surfaces. 1 bottle contains 40ml.

Quality of the artwork varies greatly. That above is basically the same as this, which is not readily apparent. I suggest you paint it like you want too. Black underside and big spots? Well it's up to you in the end.

They are not the same machines. From what I could find the first machine is Green 1 that was lost after his last night victory. Camo seems to have been just the standard for a day fighter. This because the fighters where borrowed from day fighter units. Note that Eduard seem to think the panel under the engine should be yellow. http://falkeeins.blogspot.com/2017/08/fw-190-6-grune-1-werk-nr-550-445.html?m=1

You could try apply a thin pin wash to the depressions. Very thin. The choice of colour would still be tricky. Blue is reflection of the sky. More noticeable in the evenings than in direct strong sun light. Alternatively pretend the tracks get through the snow to the ground and make the impressions dark brown green. I suspect lots of experiment is necessary.

Comparison photos are useful to measure progress. Here's the clean left side. ...and the right side after applying mud. I have a bottle of Mig's oil weathering I use because I like the colour. (need to find a water based substitute) Here it's thinned by odourless thinner and applied by brush. (the Airbrush was too subtle) The rear looks quote right.

I am not sure there is a future for the hobby, in its present form. Stores is what attract new people to the hobby and they get rarer. I suppose tanks and aircrafts in various fixed scales may eventually disappear. I am not that worried, however. Building stuff and painting it, otoh, is a basic fun thing you will find in all variants and that will stay forever. Kids today do the Warhammer stuff. Of course, what they call tanks and aircraft are pure

Right! I have seen those in the art supply store! I'll go get one tomorrow. Thanks for the idea!

Thanks! I will try ground it to a powder.

Currently trying to figure out how to best simulate the bare metal of the wheels and inside of the tracks. Suggestions are welcome.

It always a little risky to interrupt the paint process with modification work. Here I cut some plastic to move the idler wheel closer to the Hull. I did this to get a clear line for the guide pins of the tracks. This was actually an afterthought as I started out painting the tracks! Anyway the surgery was a success.

The gun mantle and turret front got some attention with the AB today. The result is accidental since I, once again, painted the parts separately. The effect is great, however, so I'll keep it. I am not keen on washes. They darken the colours overall, which is not very realistic. A pin wash in some locations is better. I used Flory's dark dirt wash (that's what i had available) on the turret top, the engine area, and on the rear Hull plate. Pity the cool oil dirt effect will be obscured by dust Tomorrow I think I'll work on the tracks. Thanks for watching!

I got the Iwata Neo, and am very satisfied with it. BTW, the correct pressure and paint mix is key to get a good result regardless of what AB you have. As for compressor I have the cheapest I could find and it has an 8 litre tank. Cost me 600 Skr which is about 70 USD. It is noisy, but you fill it up when away from home (use a timer) and then you got enough air to last a session. Getting a bigger tank, like 24 litre, add very little to the price. 15$ or so.

How does that compare to tamiya XF-21 SKY? I use that one for some of my late messerschmitts.

Best way to do realistic heavy wear on the propeller blades is to spray a metallic paint on them. If you just want some wear on the edges I recommend light dry brushing with metallic.

Thanks! Post a picture should you like to!

So, I noticed there is a pattern to how I paint my tanks. I start with right front corner, then go right side, front left side, rear Hull and lastly lower front plate. Turret otoh is anti-clockwise from left side. Barrel is Painted last. I wonder why I do it this way? I am sure there are interesting variations to this among the members!

Green is the name of the game today. On the whole I like the result, but plan to make some changes on the turret front, and the rear hull plate. As you will notice the right side of the tank have a different pattern on turret, and hull, that may annoy the eye. I'll sleep on that one. It is clear that happened because I painted the turret and hull separately. Another thought is that I could have done the camo simply by using thin blue-tak strips over the ochre color, and then alternate between filling in with brown and green. Don't know why I didn't figured out that before. Also, after my experiences, i have ordered 0.2 mm needles and nozzles to see if that help me get the fine lines with lessened overspray. I start painting at the front corners for some reason, then paint the sides in order right /left. Hull finished. Rear Hull. Pattern looks too large, but maybe weathering will fix this. Lower front Hull. Almost forgot it. Running gear, left side. Right side. Thanks for watching!

You got a link? I have tried earlier to find it on Google.

There is a book about German landing gears of aircraft in ww2. Something of a niche interest for sure

The G-6 is not covered in that book.

Thank you! Today i finished the maroon stripes. Some on the left side got some overspray but i let that go. I was in a flow where the Airbrush behaved so i was not much bothered. The stripes on the Hull and the turret line up here. That would be of some concern but is easily fixed. I just need to keep the turret angled a bit. Some experiment adding white to the Tamiya Dark green 1+4 ratio mid, iirc, and 1+3 right. . These Toon tanks are useful as practice subjects and at very small cost. Highly recommended! Thanks for watching!