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About cxk5075

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  1. If you end up passing on the Tigercat, please let me know about the deal. Thanks and happy new year!
  2. Only sharing my experience, but masking is no problem. Masking to pick out panels to apply different shades is no issue at all. They are durable too as you handle your model and hold up very well.
  3. One bottle of Aluminum is plenty to do an entire 1/32 P-51. If you get a couple different metals you’ll have more than enough. I would use their black primer, though you supposedly don’t have to. Good luck! i just got a cyber Monday email 25% off with a voucher for 5% off a future order. Good luck!
  4. I'm not affiliated with AK - just a very happy customer! Through today, they are about $4.20 each depending upon what conversion factor you use from AK Direct. It's extremely forgiving and easy to work with as long as your surface is smooth. I've found it to be nowhere near as finicky as Alclad. Don't get me wrong I see some great stuff on here from other modelers using Alclad, but I've never had much luck with the stuff. The smell is comparable with Alclad. Their "Real Colors" paints are amazing too. It's an acrylic lacquer based product, but I have been able to get great results using them. Compared to paints like MRP or other lacquers the smell is not too bad. Even with a spray booth, other inhabitants in my house would complain about the smell using MRP, but not with Real Colors if you use their thinner. Nobody even knows I'm airbrushing and I don't use the spray booth all the time. You can also use enamel based washes on top of either Xtreme metal or Real Colors and they are unaffected as you weather them. This product range has really helped me get some great results! If you spend over 200 euro you get free DHL air shipping worldwide, which isn't hard to do with all the paints, weathering supplies, tools, brushes, etc on their website! Takes about 4 business days from Spain to my doorstep in PA.
  5. They are the best metal paints I have ever used. I think they are a lacquer, but you can use AK enamel washes right over them with no ill effects. Flory did a nice video review which is what got me hooked. You’ll forget all about Alclad that’s for sure! Right now AK has a Black Friday 25% off promo That ends tomorrow.
  6. Defmodel casting quality is top notch on my armor stuff. I just preordered the gun barrels and seated pilots from Luckymodel
  7. I would like to get the control surfaces, tails, and burners if you have them. I’m in USA. How do I order?
  8. Hi

    id like to get all of your sets for the 1/32 F-35. Please contact me with instructions to do so. 


  9. Hi, I’d like to get all the sets you make for the F-35. I’m in USA. Can you please tell me how tp place an order?


  10. Hi everyone, I have tried Google, but don't seem to be finding any aftermarket decals for this new kit. Anyone know of any? Would like a scheme with full upper and lower invasion stripes. Thanks for any assistance!
  11. I'm in for a Blue Angels Tiger!
  12. These are great threads in the HK kit! It looks like there are actually 4 chairs in the kit, one on each of the engine sprues (J). I did not see it in the instructions either, nor do I know if its accurate, but at least it does not appear we have to rummage through spares boxes to come up with something.
  13. This kit is awesome indeed. I agree with you this area is definitely one of the most challenging parts of the kit. But it is still a fun kit. I have kind of been skipping around in the instructions - I tend to first assemble things that are in "halves" first (fuel tanks, the .50 cals, rudders, etc.). Helps to deal with most of the seams at once.
  14. Hello Tim W and Out2gtcha! Thanks for commenting on my post! The issue I'm having is in step 31 (Left Wing). The right wing in step 36 also has the same issue. When you cement E8/E9 to E5& E6, you then sandwich all that in between the wing halves. This leaves a seam in front and behind both parts E8/E9. In addition there are recessed "tabs" that the PE parts don't fit into very well. So far, it seems the best option might be to omit the kit PE parts, fill al seams, and glue in the individual "fins" so it's all smooth. I looked at the Eduard set instructions online, but it looks like the "frame" of these replacement parts will prevent the plastic parts E8/E9 from joining together with E5/E6 like they should, which will then throw off the whole wing/intake assembly. When I dry fit there is not much play, and I'm pretty sure the seams will look bad after painting unless I come up with a plan to deal with this now. I hope I'm making sense... Thanks again for your replies.
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