danimalmagic

Well it is definitely large scale that for sure at 26.5" long by 14" wide.
 
Hi all, just finished this Behemoth, hard to get the camera settings right and it was even tougher to find a big enough space with a blank background, old bed sheet had to do so my apologies. I used the Madman Lighting BSG card for this as it has the flickering engine effect i wanted and the other lighting requirements are quite basic, bespoke base and machined mounting pole so the model can be separated from the base.
Two working lasers on the nose and just LED effects for the torpedo launchers, all working off an RC fob.
All pipework bespoke using various welding wire.
 
 






Light bleed from the lazers has since been rectified. 

Cockpit and Droid lighting.
https://imgur.com/dTKVnFQ

https://i.imgur.com/dTKVnFQ.mp4
 
Thanks for looking.
 
Danny
www.modelmasteruk.com

Well it is definitely large scale that for sure at 26.5" long by 14" wide.
 
Hi all, just finished this Behemoth, hard to get the camera settings right and it was even tougher to find a big enough space with a blank background, old bed sheet had to do so my apologies. I used the Madman Lighting BSG card for this as it has the flickering engine effect i wanted and the other lighting requirements are quite basic, bespoke base and machined mounting pole so the model can be separated from the base.
Two working lasers on the nose and just LED effects for the torpedo launchers, all working off an RC fob.
All pipework bespoke using various welding wire.
 
 






Light bleed from the lazers has since been rectified. 

Cockpit and Droid lighting.
https://imgur.com/dTKVnFQ

https://i.imgur.com/dTKVnFQ.mp4
 
Thanks for looking.
 
Danny
www.modelmasteruk.com

Well it is definitely large scale that for sure at 26.5" long by 14" wide.
 
Hi all, just finished this Behemoth, hard to get the camera settings right and it was even tougher to find a big enough space with a blank background, old bed sheet had to do so my apologies. I used the Madman Lighting BSG card for this as it has the flickering engine effect i wanted and the other lighting requirements are quite basic, bespoke base and machined mounting pole so the model can be separated from the base.
Two working lasers on the nose and just LED effects for the torpedo launchers, all working off an RC fob.
All pipework bespoke using various welding wire.
 
 






Light bleed from the lazers has since been rectified. 

Cockpit and Droid lighting.
https://imgur.com/dTKVnFQ

https://i.imgur.com/dTKVnFQ.mp4
 
Thanks for looking.
 
Danny
www.modelmasteruk.com

Well it is definitely large scale that for sure at 26.5" long by 14" wide.
 
Hi all, just finished this Behemoth, hard to get the camera settings right and it was even tougher to find a big enough space with a blank background, old bed sheet had to do so my apologies. I used the Madman Lighting BSG card for this as it has the flickering engine effect i wanted and the other lighting requirements are quite basic, bespoke base and machined mounting pole so the model can be separated from the base.
Two working lasers on the nose and just LED effects for the torpedo launchers, all working off an RC fob.
All pipework bespoke using various welding wire.
 
 






Light bleed from the lazers has since been rectified. 

Cockpit and Droid lighting.
https://imgur.com/dTKVnFQ

https://i.imgur.com/dTKVnFQ.mp4
 
Thanks for looking.
 
Danny
www.modelmasteruk.com

The lighting on this is the cherry on the cake. A nicely done battle-hardened Y-Wing.
 
Bravo!
 
Kind regards,
Paul

Well it is definitely large scale that for sure at 26.5" long by 14" wide.
 
Hi all, just finished this Behemoth, hard to get the camera settings right and it was even tougher to find a big enough space with a blank background, old bed sheet had to do so my apologies. I used the Madman Lighting BSG card for this as it has the flickering engine effect i wanted and the other lighting requirements are quite basic, bespoke base and machined mounting pole so the model can be separated from the base.
Two working lasers on the nose and just LED effects for the torpedo launchers, all working off an RC fob.
All pipework bespoke using various welding wire.
 
 






Light bleed from the lazers has since been rectified. 

Cockpit and Droid lighting.
https://imgur.com/dTKVnFQ

https://i.imgur.com/dTKVnFQ.mp4
 
Thanks for looking.
 
Danny
www.modelmasteruk.com

Lots if people on ebay make engraved plaques to size, I found a lady some years ago in the UK. She even does the proper fonts, very cheap too, only a few pounds.

Well it is definitely large scale that for sure at 26.5" long by 14" wide.
 
Hi all, just finished this Behemoth, hard to get the camera settings right and it was even tougher to find a big enough space with a blank background, old bed sheet had to do so my apologies. I used the Madman Lighting BSG card for this as it has the flickering engine effect i wanted and the other lighting requirements are quite basic, bespoke base and machined mounting pole so the model can be separated from the base.
Two working lasers on the nose and just LED effects for the torpedo launchers, all working off an RC fob.
All pipework bespoke using various welding wire.
 
 






Light bleed from the lazers has since been rectified. 

Cockpit and Droid lighting.
https://imgur.com/dTKVnFQ

https://i.imgur.com/dTKVnFQ.mp4
 
Thanks for looking.
 
Danny
www.modelmasteruk.com

Just fantastic, Danny! How did you do the plaque?
 
Kev

Awesome!

Well it is definitely large scale that for sure at 26.5" long by 14" wide.
 
Hi all, just finished this Behemoth, hard to get the camera settings right and it was even tougher to find a big enough space with a blank background, old bed sheet had to do so my apologies. I used the Madman Lighting BSG card for this as it has the flickering engine effect i wanted and the other lighting requirements are quite basic, bespoke base and machined mounting pole so the model can be separated from the base.
Two working lasers on the nose and just LED effects for the torpedo launchers, all working off an RC fob.
All pipework bespoke using various welding wire.
 
 






Light bleed from the lazers has since been rectified. 

Cockpit and Droid lighting.
https://imgur.com/dTKVnFQ

https://i.imgur.com/dTKVnFQ.mp4
 
Thanks for looking.
 
Danny
www.modelmasteruk.com

Well it is definitely large scale that for sure at 26.5" long by 14" wide.
 
Hi all, just finished this Behemoth, hard to get the camera settings right and it was even tougher to find a big enough space with a blank background, old bed sheet had to do so my apologies. I used the Madman Lighting BSG card for this as it has the flickering engine effect i wanted and the other lighting requirements are quite basic, bespoke base and machined mounting pole so the model can be separated from the base.
Two working lasers on the nose and just LED effects for the torpedo launchers, all working off an RC fob.
All pipework bespoke using various welding wire.
 
 






Light bleed from the lazers has since been rectified. 

Cockpit and Droid lighting.
https://imgur.com/dTKVnFQ

https://i.imgur.com/dTKVnFQ.mp4
 
Thanks for looking.
 
Danny
www.modelmasteruk.com

Well it is definitely large scale that for sure at 26.5" long by 14" wide.
 
Hi all, just finished this Behemoth, hard to get the camera settings right and it was even tougher to find a big enough space with a blank background, old bed sheet had to do so my apologies. I used the Madman Lighting BSG card for this as it has the flickering engine effect i wanted and the other lighting requirements are quite basic, bespoke base and machined mounting pole so the model can be separated from the base.
Two working lasers on the nose and just LED effects for the torpedo launchers, all working off an RC fob.
All pipework bespoke using various welding wire.
 
 






Light bleed from the lazers has since been rectified. 

Cockpit and Droid lighting.
https://imgur.com/dTKVnFQ

https://i.imgur.com/dTKVnFQ.mp4
 
Thanks for looking.
 
Danny
www.modelmasteruk.com

Fantastic!
Tell us more about this project!
 
Alain

Freaking gorgeous!

Well it is definitely large scale that for sure at 26.5" long by 14" wide.
 
Hi all, just finished this Behemoth, hard to get the camera settings right and it was even tougher to find a big enough space with a blank background, old bed sheet had to do so my apologies. I used the Madman Lighting BSG card for this as it has the flickering engine effect i wanted and the other lighting requirements are quite basic, bespoke base and machined mounting pole so the model can be separated from the base.
Two working lasers on the nose and just LED effects for the torpedo launchers, all working off an RC fob.
All pipework bespoke using various welding wire.
 
 






Light bleed from the lazers has since been rectified. 

Cockpit and Droid lighting.
https://imgur.com/dTKVnFQ

https://i.imgur.com/dTKVnFQ.mp4
 
Thanks for looking.
 
Danny
www.modelmasteruk.com

Well it is definitely large scale that for sure at 26.5" long by 14" wide.
 
Hi all, just finished this Behemoth, hard to get the camera settings right and it was even tougher to find a big enough space with a blank background, old bed sheet had to do so my apologies. I used the Madman Lighting BSG card for this as it has the flickering engine effect i wanted and the other lighting requirements are quite basic, bespoke base and machined mounting pole so the model can be separated from the base.
Two working lasers on the nose and just LED effects for the torpedo launchers, all working off an RC fob.
All pipework bespoke using various welding wire.
 
 






Light bleed from the lazers has since been rectified. 

Cockpit and Droid lighting.
https://imgur.com/dTKVnFQ

https://i.imgur.com/dTKVnFQ.mp4
 
Thanks for looking.
 
Danny
www.modelmasteruk.com

Well it is definitely large scale that for sure at 26.5" long by 14" wide.
 
Hi all, just finished this Behemoth, hard to get the camera settings right and it was even tougher to find a big enough space with a blank background, old bed sheet had to do so my apologies. I used the Madman Lighting BSG card for this as it has the flickering engine effect i wanted and the other lighting requirements are quite basic, bespoke base and machined mounting pole so the model can be separated from the base.
Two working lasers on the nose and just LED effects for the torpedo launchers, all working off an RC fob.
All pipework bespoke using various welding wire.
 
 






Light bleed from the lazers has since been rectified. 

Cockpit and Droid lighting.
https://imgur.com/dTKVnFQ

https://i.imgur.com/dTKVnFQ.mp4
 
Thanks for looking.
 
Danny
www.modelmasteruk.com

Frighteningly spectacular... dear George 
 
CIAO!
Piero

That's some amazing paint work! I was lucky enough to see ine of these at my club meet last year. It's a very impressive and quite imposing kit. Is the lighting your own or an AM set?

Hi all, its been a while, i started this November 22 and got stuck back into it a few weeks ago.
 
Firstly the kit is fantastic, absolute genius design and at over 800 parts it is not a 5 minute job, especially if you are going to paint it. I have built a few Metal Gear Solid kits from Kotobukiya before and i am pretty sure this is from the same stable of cleverness as they where amazingly well thought out and engineered, finished model stands at just over 12 inches tall.
 
You can build straight from the box but the self coloured plastic just does not pop and the Chrome is never quite Chrome in reality. So first job was to remove all parts from there sprues one body section at a time, remove all sprue nubs, separate to each colour then bag, this was a week just on its own. Never seen the point of painting on the sprue, the marks always show up and you then only have to remove the nub and re paint.
Next job was the colours, i chose Createx Pearl Red and Pearl Blue for the main colours with Createx Gloss Coat, never used this stuff before, it does give a nice paint finish but it is a pig to get through your airbrush and even worse to clean after, yes i did have the correct psi and needle size.
All the Metallic parts are done with Alclad, Chrome, Gloss Aluminium, Burnt Metal, Pale Burnt Metal, Tamiya Titanium Gold, Tamiya Metallic Grey and AK Gunmetal. Any fine finishing of minor pipes and fitting was done with a Molotow Chrome Pen, make sure this has plenty of time to dry.
 
If you are going to paint this kit or any of the modern Kotobukiya kits you have to make sure you remove any paint from the snap fit pins and holes and more importantly any moveable joint or sliding fit part. If you don't you will have a lot of problems later connecting parts together and probably end up breaking small parts. It takes time but it is necessary. Another good tip is to use a very small amount of Silicon Grease on the joints, i learned a painful lesson on a Kotobukiya Metal Gear Rex a few years back so a little grease is a must.
 
The plan is to build two, one as per this post and another weathered and battle damaged, i chose the pristine version first to iron out and issues and get familiar with the kit, glad i did as building a battle damaged version will be quite a challenge, needs a lot of thought.
 
I have built a lot of models but i have to see this is by far the most detailed and well designed, enjoyed every minute, will be centre place in my cabinet.








 
Lighting added to the Head and the Matrix in the chest.



 
Hope you enjoyed the finished model.
 
Thanks for looking.
 
Danny
www.modelmasteruk.com

Hi all, its been a while, i started this November 22 and got stuck back into it a few weeks ago.
 
Firstly the kit is fantastic, absolute genius design and at over 800 parts it is not a 5 minute job, especially if you are going to paint it. I have built a few Metal Gear Solid kits from Kotobukiya before and i am pretty sure this is from the same stable of cleverness as they where amazingly well thought out and engineered, finished model stands at just over 12 inches tall.
 
You can build straight from the box but the self coloured plastic just does not pop and the Chrome is never quite Chrome in reality. So first job was to remove all parts from there sprues one body section at a time, remove all sprue nubs, separate to each colour then bag, this was a week just on its own. Never seen the point of painting on the sprue, the marks always show up and you then only have to remove the nub and re paint.
Next job was the colours, i chose Createx Pearl Red and Pearl Blue for the main colours with Createx Gloss Coat, never used this stuff before, it does give a nice paint finish but it is a pig to get through your airbrush and even worse to clean after, yes i did have the correct psi and needle size.
All the Metallic parts are done with Alclad, Chrome, Gloss Aluminium, Burnt Metal, Pale Burnt Metal, Tamiya Titanium Gold, Tamiya Metallic Grey and AK Gunmetal. Any fine finishing of minor pipes and fitting was done with a Molotow Chrome Pen, make sure this has plenty of time to dry.
 
If you are going to paint this kit or any of the modern Kotobukiya kits you have to make sure you remove any paint from the snap fit pins and holes and more importantly any moveable joint or sliding fit part. If you don't you will have a lot of problems later connecting parts together and probably end up breaking small parts. It takes time but it is necessary. Another good tip is to use a very small amount of Silicon Grease on the joints, i learned a painful lesson on a Kotobukiya Metal Gear Rex a few years back so a little grease is a must.
 
The plan is to build two, one as per this post and another weathered and battle damaged, i chose the pristine version first to iron out and issues and get familiar with the kit, glad i did as building a battle damaged version will be quite a challenge, needs a lot of thought.
 
I have built a lot of models but i have to see this is by far the most detailed and well designed, enjoyed every minute, will be centre place in my cabinet.








 
Lighting added to the Head and the Matrix in the chest.



 
Hope you enjoyed the finished model.
 
Thanks for looking.
 
Danny
www.modelmasteruk.com

Hi all, its been a while, i started this November 22 and got stuck back into it a few weeks ago.
 
Firstly the kit is fantastic, absolute genius design and at over 800 parts it is not a 5 minute job, especially if you are going to paint it. I have built a few Metal Gear Solid kits from Kotobukiya before and i am pretty sure this is from the same stable of cleverness as they where amazingly well thought out and engineered, finished model stands at just over 12 inches tall.
 
You can build straight from the box but the self coloured plastic just does not pop and the Chrome is never quite Chrome in reality. So first job was to remove all parts from there sprues one body section at a time, remove all sprue nubs, separate to each colour then bag, this was a week just on its own. Never seen the point of painting on the sprue, the marks always show up and you then only have to remove the nub and re paint.
Next job was the colours, i chose Createx Pearl Red and Pearl Blue for the main colours with Createx Gloss Coat, never used this stuff before, it does give a nice paint finish but it is a pig to get through your airbrush and even worse to clean after, yes i did have the correct psi and needle size.
All the Metallic parts are done with Alclad, Chrome, Gloss Aluminium, Burnt Metal, Pale Burnt Metal, Tamiya Titanium Gold, Tamiya Metallic Grey and AK Gunmetal. Any fine finishing of minor pipes and fitting was done with a Molotow Chrome Pen, make sure this has plenty of time to dry.
 
If you are going to paint this kit or any of the modern Kotobukiya kits you have to make sure you remove any paint from the snap fit pins and holes and more importantly any moveable joint or sliding fit part. If you don't you will have a lot of problems later connecting parts together and probably end up breaking small parts. It takes time but it is necessary. Another good tip is to use a very small amount of Silicon Grease on the joints, i learned a painful lesson on a Kotobukiya Metal Gear Rex a few years back so a little grease is a must.
 
The plan is to build two, one as per this post and another weathered and battle damaged, i chose the pristine version first to iron out and issues and get familiar with the kit, glad i did as building a battle damaged version will be quite a challenge, needs a lot of thought.
 
I have built a lot of models but i have to see this is by far the most detailed and well designed, enjoyed every minute, will be centre place in my cabinet.








 
Lighting added to the Head and the Matrix in the chest.



 
Hope you enjoyed the finished model.
 
Thanks for looking.
 
Danny
www.modelmasteruk.com

Hi all, its been a while, i started this November 22 and got stuck back into it a few weeks ago.
 
Firstly the kit is fantastic, absolute genius design and at over 800 parts it is not a 5 minute job, especially if you are going to paint it. I have built a few Metal Gear Solid kits from Kotobukiya before and i am pretty sure this is from the same stable of cleverness as they where amazingly well thought out and engineered, finished model stands at just over 12 inches tall.
 
You can build straight from the box but the self coloured plastic just does not pop and the Chrome is never quite Chrome in reality. So first job was to remove all parts from there sprues one body section at a time, remove all sprue nubs, separate to each colour then bag, this was a week just on its own. Never seen the point of painting on the sprue, the marks always show up and you then only have to remove the nub and re paint.
Next job was the colours, i chose Createx Pearl Red and Pearl Blue for the main colours with Createx Gloss Coat, never used this stuff before, it does give a nice paint finish but it is a pig to get through your airbrush and even worse to clean after, yes i did have the correct psi and needle size.
All the Metallic parts are done with Alclad, Chrome, Gloss Aluminium, Burnt Metal, Pale Burnt Metal, Tamiya Titanium Gold, Tamiya Metallic Grey and AK Gunmetal. Any fine finishing of minor pipes and fitting was done with a Molotow Chrome Pen, make sure this has plenty of time to dry.
 
If you are going to paint this kit or any of the modern Kotobukiya kits you have to make sure you remove any paint from the snap fit pins and holes and more importantly any moveable joint or sliding fit part. If you don't you will have a lot of problems later connecting parts together and probably end up breaking small parts. It takes time but it is necessary. Another good tip is to use a very small amount of Silicon Grease on the joints, i learned a painful lesson on a Kotobukiya Metal Gear Rex a few years back so a little grease is a must.
 
The plan is to build two, one as per this post and another weathered and battle damaged, i chose the pristine version first to iron out and issues and get familiar with the kit, glad i did as building a battle damaged version will be quite a challenge, needs a lot of thought.
 
I have built a lot of models but i have to see this is by far the most detailed and well designed, enjoyed every minute, will be centre place in my cabinet.








 
Lighting added to the Head and the Matrix in the chest.



 
Hope you enjoyed the finished model.
 
Thanks for looking.
 
Danny
www.modelmasteruk.com

That is an amazingly detailed transformer!