Jump to content

CANicoll

LSP_Members
  • Posts

    2,131
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3

Reputation Activity

  1. Like
    CANicoll reacted to LSP_Kevin in P-39 Snooks 2nd   
    Looks like you're way ahead of me, Chris. Before I broke my cannon shells 'belt' part, I noticed that three of the shells had a slightly extended nose, and these 3 didn't sit inside the rack properly, causing the entire thing to sit high. I trimmed them to match the others, but I still have no idea whether they were supposed to be like that. I hope you can get yours sorted! At least if all else fails, we can both just slap the nose panels on and forget about it!
     
    Kev
  2. Like
    CANicoll got a reaction from mpk in P-39 Snooks 2nd   
    This is the kit that I'm increasingly hating to build.  I'm just amazed at how poorly engineered the kit is.  Part with locating pins but either the mating part doesn't have the holes/slots for the pins, or the slots/holes are not big enough to take the pins/tabs.  Parts that are also too big to fit where they are supposed to as well. I have multiple examples of this.  Really disappointed that every single step takes far longer than it should to deal with fit issues.
     
    Progress so far.
     
    Overall seems like so far can get the fuselage together - but it is rapidly apparent that all of the top of engine paint and detail is for naught - nothing of it will be seen as well as detail on the front and rear of the engine.  

     
    Got the minions painted (I mean the oxygen tanks!).  Another dumb mounting point issue - the lugs to ensure the proper height to the tanks could have been put UNDER the frame, not on top.

     
    Installed they look great 
     

     
    The equipment tray in front of the cannon magazine required cutting down the mounting legs in the back and widening the alignment slots in the front.  Still not sure how it will all fit yet when enclosed in the nose.
     
    I thought the front landing gear would be a nice simple project for this morning...
     

     
    Painted the Model Master Metalizer, but the silver mounting piece (looks like a 'W') did not have any holes in the roof of the landing gear bay so that required some drilling mounting holes.  The entire also had to shorten the piece from the landing strut to the 'W'.  Putting these three pieces together took 45 minutes and they are not well aligned.  Still have to fix that.
     

     
    Finally got ONE thing together with out a huge issue:  the instrument panel.  Did some cutting of the decal to get around the raised switch detail, but overall  it came out better than I expected.  The decals themselves are very nicely printed and not very fragile. I pushed them down over the IP details and that came out pretty good afterall.
     

     
    So have to fix the front landing gear still, then get the cannon shells on the nose and add the nose guns.
     
    Thinking about HGW seatbelts.
  3. Like
    CANicoll reacted to dennismcc in P-39 Snooks 2nd   
    A great warts and all tutorial, I like the way you are overcoming the "challenges", keep it up.
     
    Cheers
     
    Dennis
  4. Like
    CANicoll reacted to LSP_K2 in P-39 Snooks 2nd   
    Don't know if you have it or not, but this Detail & Scale book on the Airacobra, has some great shots of the weapons bay, if memory serves.
  5. Like
    CANicoll got a reaction from mpk in P-39 Snooks 2nd   
    Just a bit of a catch-up.  Got the wings closed and the wheel wells seem to fit pretty well.  Dry fitting the wings to the fuselage, however, reveals a 1mm gap at the top if the bottom is aligned properly - on both left and right sides.  The wheel well extends out into an indent in the fuselage so this may be the issue - I'll chase later.
     
    Here is the engine and wiring on the side that will be open.
     

     
    The wiring harness is not as nice as Kev's but I'm going OOB so it will have to do (that is my excuse anyway!).  Will likely dabble some gray powder on some of the exhausts later.
     
    A bigger problem is up front.  A picture for Kev to show how the shells look with the top piece 'on', but obviously, my cartridge rack is sitting way too high.  I think I just need to cut the supports a bit and reglue, but again, will take a look at that later.  The purple you see is actually on the glue bottle I used to angle the fuselage for the picture.  No purple in the nose!  
     

     
    That's it for now!
    Chris
  6. Like
    CANicoll reacted to LSP_Kevin in Kitty Hawk Model 1/32 P-39Q/N   
    Thanks, Chris. Model Expo is on here in Melbourne this long weekend (Queen's Birthday), so I'm not sure if I'll get a chance to make any progress on this build until after that. I think that cannon shell part is going to lead me on a merry chase, however!
     
    Kev
  7. Like
    CANicoll reacted in Scratch Building Tires - Diamond Tread Cutting   
    Here is a short video explaining how you created a diamond tread tire pattern using a combination of traditional manually controlled machines along with handwork.
     
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D9qkw2quJPs
     

     
    Paul
  8. Like
    CANicoll reacted to LSP_Kevin in Kitty Hawk Model 1/32 P-39Q/N   
    Thanks, fellas. I'm going to take Chris's advice, and see if I can make the broken part work first. If that doesn't work out, it's good to know that you fellas have my back! We'll see what happens, eh?
     
    Kev
  9. Like
    CANicoll got a reaction from MikeC in Kitty Hawk Model 1/32 P-39Q/N   
    Kev - you are planning on having only one side open, right?  What I've seen on mine is that with the one side open, you can't see the shells on the other side.  Any chance you can just slide the shells to fill the side that has the open panel and declare success?  FWIW the shells on top of mine kind of flattened out instead of being in a nice curve, but it is not noticeable when all closed up.
     
    Good luck!  I'm working on closing up my wings, and puttying in the machine gun ports.
  10. Like
    CANicoll reacted to LSP_Kevin in Kitty Hawk Model 1/32 P-39Q/N   
    And here they are, Ron:
     

     
    I'll let you guys be the judge. If they're good enough for you lot, then they're good enough for me. If not, I'll try either another wash, or some drybrushing.
     
    Here's a photo from the other end, showing he instrument panel in situ:
     

     
    I've started working on the remaining elements that make up this assembly, and will then test-fit it all into the fuselage. Fingers crossed!
     
    Kev
  11. Like
    CANicoll reacted to wunwinglow in New 1/32 Tempest - master photos   
    Well, I'm getting one. If the rivets are too big for my liking, I'll sand them off......
     
    It's called modelmaking.
     
     
    Tim
  12. Like
    CANicoll reacted to LSP_Kevin in New 1/32 Tempest - master photos   
    Well, hopefully Special Hobby will send us one for review, and then we can take a good and proper look.
     
    Kev
  13. Like
    CANicoll got a reaction from Zero77 in D-Day Stripes the Easy Way (at least to me)   
    VERY interesting.  Thanks for sharing.  I would have had it backwards, shooting the white first THEN the black. Hmm learn something new every day!!
  14. Like
    CANicoll got a reaction from danimalmagic in 1/24 Airfix Mosquito WIP.   
    You've really spiced up the engines with your detailing - the look great.  I really like the copper piping - I think it is a bit unusual to see and really adds a visually interesting element to the engines.  Even better if it is historically accurate.  How much will be visible when you get them into the nacelles? 
     
    Fuel tanks look amazing too.
  15. Like
    CANicoll reacted to olgerd83 in B-17F Revell 1/48 - Memphis Belle   
    Finally, a wing is completed from the both sides, I made photos of the completed wing next to the kit's one just to compare them....
    I know that my foil work is not a perfect, but I reckon that it's better than to leave kit's plastic))))
     










     
  16. Like
    CANicoll reacted to Tomcat14 in Convair B-58 Hustler (1/48 Monogram)   
    Absolutely fantastic looking B-58 my friend, one of the best I have ever seen.
     
    Chris.
  17. Like
    CANicoll reacted to red Dog in FINISHED - Civilian Restored B-25 - Maid in the Shade   
    Thanks guys
     
    I initially planned to place the printed Circuit Board (PCB) on top of the bomb bay but unfortunately the ceiling clearance is just too short.
    I had to trick the rear of the bomb bay with a false compartment and slide the PCB in there.
     

     
    Checking the lights before closing the fuselage.
    Two wires go out of the fuselage to the wings. To ensure the clearance for these wires I dug into the fuselage and bomb bay walls. The wires will go through the sliding mechanism of the wings. That will let me disconnect the wires should I need to disassemble the wings from the fuselage
    The tail connects as well for the left top tail light.
    Both Anti collision red lights flash in opposition, the rest of the flights are flood lights and remain steady. There are two in the rear compartment, one in the bomb bay, one in the front compartment and provisions for one in the nose compartment.
    The wire providing power to the PCB are routed to the nose gear bay and will go down along the nose gear leg and into the Wheel into the base of the model.
     
     

    Seats were added into the rear compartement of Maid in the shade. The cabin were modified to transport passengers during airshow rides. I took a bit of artistic licence in the rear compartment seat positionning.
    The cabin will not be highly visible anyway.
    The .50 mechanism was quickly detailled nevertheless

     

    Front compartment was also detailled. the top turret support will not be installed and instead two passengers seats were added on the rear bulkhead
     
    Seats are scratchbuilt and I used the eduard coloured seatbelts kits.
    They are far from easy to work with. They feel very unnatural because you can't really bend them naturally. If you do, the paint layer might actually pop from the PE.
    In some cases, if you follow instructions you must bend a part at 180° to insert a buckle and doing so you will inevitably destroy the coloured layer.
    Probably the last time I use these, they were included in the Big ed set but honestly, they are not Worth using.
    A simple painted lead sheet and cut to size with PE buckles give much better resin than full PE coloured seatbelts.
    I heard a lot of good about the HGW fabric seatbelts but I never had an opportunity to test them yet.
     
    The scratched floor in the rear compartement might create fitting issues when closing the fuselage so I added some guides to ensure it was moving above the internal support. In dryfit attempts, the floor got stuck under the support creating a gap at the fuselage joint.

     
     
    I had a bit of trouble with the Terry Dean noseweights. The longer waits naturally goes on the side opposite the inexistant passage to the nose. As the cockpit floor was glued on the other side, care was taken to ensure the weight didn't conflict with it.
    So I had to angle it a bit to ensure I didn't create fitting issues.
    I couldn't really sort the shorter weight position. the cut and the curves didn't get me a natural position so I ended up improvising. I put some spacers from the left wall so the noseweight wasn't too visible from the nose. As I didn't build the passageway, I didn't want the nose weight to be fully aligned with the large hole visible from the nose.
     

     
    I don't want these weight to move so I glued them firmly in place, and made sure the glue was well dried before closing the fuselage to ensure liquid glue wouldn't soften the plastic.
    I ended up with a bit of an awkward position with the noseweights, but who cares, nobody will know
     

    Don't mind the tail;, a wire makes it unbalanced.
     
    It's a milestone in this build. With the fuselage finally closed, the model finally could be assembled. That's were you realise this beast is huge!!

     
    Thanks for looking, Progress should now be faster
  18. Like
    CANicoll reacted to red Dog in FINISHED - Civilian Restored B-25 - Maid in the Shade   
    Thank you Kev,
     
    the decals are always an interesting part of a model.
    Obviously this project will require homemade decals.
    I usually printed my decals at work on a laser printer. Unfortunately that old laser printer has been retired from service.
    I thus turned to inkjet printing on the home printer. I was a little bit concerned about inkjet being as good in quality as laser, but i'd give it a try anyway.
    First step was to source a few sheets of inkjet decal paper from expert choice decals.
     
    The artowrk were redone as well. Maid in the shade recently had the pinups repainted. My original artwork used the old pinup design. Since I'll do the 2016 version of maid in the shade I needed to change a few things.
    The first step after completion of the artwork design is to print the declas on plain white paper and check dimension and fitting on the model:
     

     

     

     

     
    Once satisfied with the dimensions, I then tape a piece of transparent inkjet decal on a paper sheet and print the decals
     

     
    I'm pretty glad with how this turned out. The inkjet result is pretty good and much more vivid than on the white paper.
    Matter of fact, this may be much better than the results I had before on the laserprinter.
     
    The problem with homemade decals is that some light colours might not be opaque enough to cover the sometime dark paint on the model. In this case, the aluminium is light but I'm a bit concerned about having a dull pinup color if I simply put the decal on the model.
    To give the decals more brightness I decided to create a mask so I could paint the background of the artwork on the fuselage in white before applying the decal:
     
    I created a contour mask and printed on a blank sheet of kabuki paper.
    I'll just need to cut the mask and use the black vertical and horizontal lines to align the mask on the model, and paint a thin white layer as background:

     
    As you see, I had to cheat a bit by rounding the contour of Corsica to make the cutting a bit easier
  19. Like
    CANicoll reacted to danimalmagic in 1/24 Airfix Mosquito WIP.   
    Hi all, first thing this week was to get the wing fitted to the fuselage, it took a few test fits to get it right but the fit itself is very good, no large gaps to fill as you might expect from a larger scale kit. 

    Fuselage to wing Fit. 

    I did find one thing that may be an issue and that is the large gap under the tail elevator body, I need to find an image to see if there should be a gap there, if not it will be easy enough to fill. 

    Next up I got the major parts of the engine assembled and began detailing, these engines turned out to be quite a little project on there own. 

    I done the same with the rocker covers and used a white mig wash to highlight the Rolls Royce. 

    Engine blocks have had a black wash around all the bolts I have dry brushed with a light sand shade for the Tamiya weathering set. 

    External engine parts fitted. 



     
    Con't
     

     
  20. Like
    CANicoll reacted to Anthony in NZ in 1/24 Airfix Mosquito WIP.   
    Great update!
     
    Your work is very clean and precise, I love it. I look forward t each update you present us
     
    Cheers
    Anthony
  21. Like
    CANicoll reacted to danimalmagic in 1/24 Airfix Mosquito WIP.   
    Mounting frames and some more of the copper piping, I spent a while looking at various images of the piping on the Mossie. Some have all copper and others are a mixture of copper and painted green pipes and steel, after some debate with myself I just did the main larger bore piping loop in copper finish. The good thing about debating with yourself is you always win. 


    There is still a fair bit more pipework to add but this will be done when the engine halves are together so they were next, same interior green with a wash. 

    Next the main gear assemblies, I was hoping to add these after painting but due to the way it goes together they have to go in now. 

    With that done I could set the engine and gear in place. 


    As you can imagine there are lots of other bit as pieces to assemble while glue and paint dries, I have managed to get the internal fuel tanks done in advance. 

    That is my weeks work, it is surprising how fragile the engine framework is and it takes a fair bit of subtlety and care to get it all together. It also does not help that the large engine bodywork halves are warped a little, it will all pull together on assembly it just made it a little more difficult to set the engine bulkhead in place. 
    The plan for next week is to complete both engines and piping and fit them to the wing then move on to the bomb bay. 
  22. Like
    CANicoll got a reaction from danimalmagic in 1/24 Airfix Mosquito WIP.   
    Thanks for the great pictures!  Love the detail work and the descriptions.  Really looks good so thank for sharing, I'll be following along.
  23. Like
    CANicoll reacted to DoogsATX in 1/32 Trumpeter SBD-5 Dauntless   
    Dauntless has been in a bit of a holding pattern lately - but we're back on the go again!
     
    First up - Eduard PE for the wing bomb racks - a bit fussy but really pretty cool!
     

     

     
    Lots of work has also gone into fitting the upper-center dive brake housing to the Dauntless. Ugh. Next time I do a Dauntless, I think I'll leave that portion in plastic. 
     
    Now that it's installed (ain't pretty...don't have pics yet), I've been working on the rest of the brakes.
     
    The actuators are tedious! Thankfully Eduard provides way more than the 30 needed.
     

     
    The brakes themselves fold over onto themselves. So one side has outside texture, the other side has interior texture. I decided to fix these with epoxy, but needed a way to keep them flat while they cured. Clamps etc weren't working, so...
     
    I sandwiched them between two sheets of glass
     

     
    And added bricks for good measure.
     

     
    Moving on the the details of the flaps...Eduard would have you fold these long strips of PE...but strip styrene does the job just as well.
     

     
    Center flap more or less done. Fitting and gluing the supports takes a lot of small alignment and thin CA work. 
     

     
    Up next...rest of the flaps and getting closer and closer to paint. 
  24. Like
    CANicoll reacted to LSP_Kevin in Kitty Hawk Model 1/32 P-39Q/N   
    Thanks, lads.
     
     
    I haven't yet, and I think I'll leave them until everything's installed in the fuselage, so that I can try to ensure they all line up with their respective openings in each engine cover. I've got a fair bit of work to do before I get that far, however, so I just hope I don't lose any in the interim!
     
    Since my last update, I've installed the engine and instrument panel into position, and now need to get the HGW seat belts assembled and installed. Then I can add the seat and rear cockpit bulkhead. I'm hoping to get through part of that work today.
     
    Kev
  25. Like
    CANicoll got a reaction from Out2gtcha in D-Day Stripes the Easy Way (at least to me)   
    VERY interesting.  Thanks for sharing.  I would have had it backwards, shooting the white first THEN the black. Hmm learn something new every day!!
×
×
  • Create New...