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  1. Like
    CANicoll got a reaction from Gazzas in Decal Panel Lines or latches   
    Gazzas, that is brilliant!  Saving that one for later...  Don't be surprised if you see that one on my Mustang build...  I even have a few types of BMF...
  2. Like
    CANicoll got a reaction from Trak-Tor in Building the Revell P-51D is now Available!   
    I'm still in catch-up mode but for your book to sway someone's opinion so strongly is a HUGE testament to the hard work your authors, in the case Jan, and you put into what you create and publish.   
    Love this part of his review:  My conclusion is, that if someone from Revell’s team is reading this: Hey guys, you should put this book as a link with a QR code on your boxes. Enough of the mediocre builds that you show on the small pictures on the side! You ruin the perception of your models. And I am serious. This should be on Revell’s box. It is the perfect reference. Because if it can convince me that Revell’s worth the money, while already in possession of Tamiya’s 32nd scale P-51, well… 
    Verdict: It is the perfect reference for building the Revell P-51D-5NA.
    It is work like your books (I did buy the Revell one as soon as you published it) that I think help keep the hobby alive.  The tips and lessons learned passed on are just so useful to adding a lot of satisfaction to one's builds.  I don't follow all of the tips, but the ones I do I REALLY like.
    Congrats and great work Kev!
  3. Like
    CANicoll reacted to Archer Fine Transfers in Decal Panel Lines or latches   
    Panel line decals? The only thing we have are "raised" panel lines that guys use to replace the ones sanded off on older kits. Back in the day one of the tricks for replicating panel lines was to draw them on with pencil or Rapidograph pens instead of scribing so you might consider that. With all the different sizes and shapes possible I wouldn't know where to start if I were to consider doing decals.

    But I'm open to suggestions.

  4. Like
    CANicoll reacted to Archer Fine Transfers in Decal Panel Lines or latches   
    Here's another idea. Using a Rapidograph pen, draw the panel on clear decal film and apply that. Test it first to see if the ink lines stay stable when wet, if not apply a light coat of clear lacquer to seal it. 
  5. Like
    CANicoll reacted to Ryan in Decal Panel Lines or latches   
    Many thanks for the response.
    I agree if you wanted to produce a set what would that look like, "1/32 WWII German latches and hatches"...not sure.
    I'm definitely no go on the pen idea , but I have used pencil in the past in smaller scales.
    I'm leaning to a slight relief effect on the latches with plastic card to sanded down to be slightly prouder than the fuse around it and then using your great rivet details around the edge.
    Not perfect but the detail will be there.
  6. Like
    CANicoll got a reaction from BiggTim in Model Monkey is back open!   
    Hang in there Steve.  Good luck!  Chris
  7. Like
    CANicoll reacted to Model_Monkey in Model Monkey is back open!   
    I regret to announce that Model Monkey is closed until further notice due to supply disruption related to COVID 19. [Edit: we're back open!  See post below.]
    We are not accepting any new orders. Nameplates and models not suitable for gray resin printing are still available from Shapeways.
    Although we have plenty of gray resin on hand, we have nearly exhausted our on-hand supply of the isopropyl alcohol (IPA) needed to clean models as they come out of the printer. Our printing process consumes 8.6 liters of 91% or higher IPA every 3-4 weeks. As of this writing, suppliers nation-wide are reporting no on-hand IPA supplies or that their IPA stocks have been understandably diverted for manufacture of hand sanitizer and other disinfectants.
    We will make every effort to print and ship every outstanding order. If we cannot fill the order within the next few days, a full refund will be issued to the buyer.
    If the availability of IPA is restored, we will open once again.
    Please accept my sincere apologies for any disappointment or inconvenience.
    And, as always, a huge thank you to all who have made Model Monkey a success otherwise.
    Stay safe!
  8. Like
    CANicoll reacted to Radub in Mustang Wing Panel Lines...From the Preeminent Mustang Restorer's Point of View   
    Hi Chris, 
    Please read the thread. All answers are there. 
    My advice to you is to look at all photos, including those posted in this thread. My own personal advice (and please feel free to ignore it!) is to coat the wings with a couple of generous coatings of a 50/50 mix of aluminium and light grey paint to simulate the lacquer. Panel lines stubbornly insisted on showing through the putty and you can see them in wartime photos if you are ready to see them. 
    I do not want to "touch" Jennings' drawing. It is his duty to set the record straight and he should! 
  9. Like
    CANicoll reacted to Out2gtcha in Mustang Wing Panel Lines...From the Preeminent Mustang Restorer's Point of View   
    100% agreed K2. A lot of times we have to present things in a different fashion, with brighter tones, or more panel lines, or what-have-you, to get some interest injected into the model. 
  10. Like
    CANicoll reacted to LSP_K2 in Mustang Wing Panel Lines...From the Preeminent Mustang Restorer's Point of View   
    I have to agree with this. While the conversation regarding what is reality, is truly intriguing, how that translates to what we do with models, is a different thing altogether. Much of what is done to models is inaccurate, but the whole artistic license thing is what can be used to give a model character, and that is purely a personal choice, regardless of accuracy.
  11. Like
    CANicoll reacted to ringleheim in Mustang Wing Panel Lines...From the Preeminent Mustang Restorer's Point of View   
    That is definitely not just you! 
    You seem to get it where many folks around here do not.

    As I have said many times, building plastic models is first and foremost an artistic exercise.
    To do it right, you should be thinking like an artist...not an engineer.
  12. Like
    CANicoll reacted to MikeMaben in Mustang Wing Panel Lines...From the Preeminent Mustang Restorer's Point of View   
    I'm feeling really left out so I'll add some more elements of confusion.
    This first illustration is in both English and a central European language I can't make out.

    The yellow areas are painted silver.
    The green areas are one coat of what they call 'filling'.
    The blue areas are two coats of the same.
    The white areas are bare metal.
    No mention of putty so I'm so sure about this as a reference.
    Next is Jennings drawing marked with 2 lines as possible
    cutoffs for the puttied surfaces. No provenence here either.

    Some possible evidence of it's existence...

    Woohoo this is fun 
  13. Like
    CANicoll reacted to Artful69 in Mustang Wing Panel Lines...From the Preeminent Mustang Restorer's Point of View   
    I agree ... stuff all was visible from 3 metres away on the two flying examples I saw ... and these dudes are restoration experts ...
    Good enough for me  ... Thanks mate.
  14. Like
    CANicoll got a reaction from Lothar in Mustang Wing Panel Lines...From the Preeminent Mustang Restorer's Point of View   
    Sorry to start the mess again, but thanks for the info Jennings and Radu.  Hope everyone is well and stays well.
  15. Thanks
  16. Like
    CANicoll reacted to Radub in Mustang Wing Panel Lines...From the Preeminent Mustang Restorer's Point of View   
    You must be reading a whole different thread. No one is denying that the wing was puttied, polished and lacquered. The "argument" is that some people believe that the puttied and lacquered Mustang wing was smooth and featureless while the reality (backed by plenty of evidence that is  conveniently/flippantly dismissed/ignored) Is more nuanced. The panel lines insisted on showing through the putty. It does not matter what is the reason for that, they just did.
    My own advice is to leave the wing alone. Just give it a couple of coats of 50/50 mix of light grey and silver paint, then DO NOT use any panel line "wash" and that should be enough. All manufacturers put wing panel lines on the latest models (although they are all aware of the "smooth wing internet meme") because all of these manufacturers saw the panel lines on the wings when they researched their models. Go to museums, go to air shows, look at the walk-arounds in books or internet, see for yourselves.
  17. Like
    CANicoll reacted to Radub in Mustang Wing Panel Lines...From the Preeminent Mustang Restorer's Point of View   
    That is the least of your worries with that kit. 
  18. Like
    CANicoll reacted to Juggernut in Mustang Wing Panel Lines...From the Preeminent Mustang Restorer's Point of View   
    Since this subject has been debated ad nauseum both here and on other forums, I decided to contact the foremost authority on the P-51 Mustang, restorer of Happy Jack's Go Buggy, winner of numerous awards and the authenticity of the restoration; Midwest Aero on the subject of panel lines, fillers and visibility.  Midwest Aero is THE place to go if you want an historically accurate, flyable P-51 restoration.  It took them awhile to respond but below is my query to them and the response I received.  These guys are the closest you can come to North American factory production processes and finishes and what the Mustang wing is supposed to look like when it's finished.
    My Question to the experts at Midwest Aero:
      If you have a few minutes, could you provide some information (settle an argument of sorts) on the P-51 wing putty, sanding and finishing?   As the closest entity to how a Mustang was finished on the production line, I thought you folks would have the most accurate information on the process and finishing of the P-51 wing.   Basically we have a disagreement about how the Mustang wing looked after finishing.  Since the wing was puttied and sanded from leading edge to 40% chord, would panel lines (skin butt joints) still be visible after the finishing process ( at both 40% chord and aft)?  My opposition will not accept factory photographs, nor written procedures from the structural repair manual. I am of the opinion that these "panel lines" would not be visible after the wing had been finished.  Note that I realize that the MLG, fuel tank panels, and gun/ammunition panels/covers were not finished as the rest of the wing. The other opinion is that in spite of the sanding and filling, those "panel lines" would still be visible under the layers of primer, putty, and topcoats.   I raised the question that visible panel lines would effectively defeat the point of filling them in the first place.  I got no reply.  I've read the structural repair procedure for leading edge wing damage which I feel supports my opinion.   As a licensed aircraft mechanic (A&P- 32 years), I feel that I have a pretty good understanding on the how's, why's and how to's...but I cannot say with much degree of certainty that my position is the correct one as I have zero experience on the Mustang. Thanks for your time and any insight you can provide .   Their Reply:   To answer your questions, I agree with you.  The panel lines would “disappear” basically where the filling took place.  The only caveat would be after a period of time, it would not be out of the question that some panel lines might become somewhat visible due to wing flex and cracking of said fillers at those particular joints.  Otherwise, overall my experience based on original  photos and actually doing  some of this work that the lines go away.  I hope that helps!   So, right from the guys who actually work on the Mustang wing (you'll most likely not find anyone any more experienced in this matter that is still with us)...the lines are not generally visible.    FWIW, Jennings' graphic of the Mustang wing is as accurate as can be had regarding this issue.  You just read it from the guys who work,restore and refinish Mustangs for a living.    
  19. Like
    CANicoll got a reaction from Madmax in A6M2b Zero - shades of grey   
    Hey Sean,
    That radial engine looks the bomb!  Have the old Eduard FW 190 A-8 Master Class kit (two of them actually) and just.could.not figure out that radial engine and ended up just putting it away.  The second kit is there waiting for me to get it sorted.
    Question, not being familiar with the Zero kit - when you masked the cockpit (such a clean job by the way) is the seat in there or you add that after painting everything?  With all the levers and handles and such that I've already installed in my Mustang cockpit, I can't mask the same way as much as I would love to.  I tend to just use a spare canopy with white glue to tack it into place and use that as the mask.
    Keep it coming - looks fantastic!
  20. Like
    CANicoll reacted to kensar in Future alternatives or similar products?   
    I believe it's called Pledge Floor Gloss now.
    I'm not sure, as I still have two bottles of the Future and haven't needed to buy more.
  21. Like
    CANicoll got a reaction from mpk in I was curious so went peeping !   
    Maru, peeping?  Tsk tsk there my friend!!  Hope you are well.
  22. Like
    CANicoll got a reaction from MARU5137 in Tamiya 1/32 F4U-1A   
    Wow, devastating to hear about getting laid off.  SO sorry to hear the bad news but do hope it is VERY temporary and when you get rehired it comes with a nice bonus.  Ugh.
    Your work, as usual, is innovative and impeccable - wow. I'm not that familiar with Corsairs, but I have NEVER seen those panel connectors you added in PE.  I just sit here in awe at your attention to detail and the ability to bring that out in your models.  Rare talent you have!
  23. Like
    CANicoll got a reaction from MARU5137 in Tamiya 1/32 F4U-1A   
    See, there is the difference between you and me: I also see something and buy it thinking 'I bet I can use that in the future on xyz build I'll eventually do'. Then completely forget about it.   I have a small drawer FULL of bits and bobs of leftover parts and things I bought that I thought were interesting.  The Telford show is absolutely deadly for those of us with that terminal condition called 'gottahaveit-itis'.
    I still buy those things, but now when I get home I stick them in the box of the intended build.  That helps!!
    Be safe!
  24. Like
    CANicoll reacted to Gazzas in P-39 Airacobra, by Kitty Hawk   
    I always thought the P-39 was a cool looking bird.
  25. Like
    CANicoll reacted to Dpgsbody55 in P-39 Airacobra, by Kitty Hawk   
    Update time, except that this update is a "take 2", as the hour I spent writing one last night got lost when I tried to post it.
    More work has been done on the instrument panel, none on the engine thanks to broken fine drill bits (of which new ones are in the mail), a bit more work on the fuselage halves, partial wing assembly, and at long last, some painting.
    I'll begin with the further enhancements to the instrument panel, and in particular the Eduard photo etch I'm adding.  This includes switches for the IP, which I eventually abandoned after much swearing and cursing.  I have neither the talent, the patience nor the eyes for details that small.  You'll see what I mean in these pics, starting with the instruction leaflet, which isn't drawn to scale .

    And these are the actual switches, which the pencil points at.

    In the end, I reamed out the holes with a 0.3mm drill bit and used wire of that size glued in place, then trimmed.  You can barely see it, but here it is at present.

    There's not a lot of work left to do on this, but I won't do any more for fear of knocking off the parts before gluing it in place.  Once I'm ready to attach the assembly, I'll finish it off then.
    Next I started work on the cockpit doors.  As with my Typhoon build, I've made hinges for them.  This will simplify masking, keep dust out of the cockpit, and reduce the chances of them being knocked off accidentally if I were to glue them in place.  Dusting models can be a precarious business .  I started with a length of 1.0mm brass tube and inserted a length of 0.45 brass rod then bent the rod into D hinges at each end.  Gluing this in place only gunked up the hinge so after soaking it in some acetone, I mounted the hinge in U stock then glued that into the model.  Grooves were filed into the doors after removing all the detail in the plastic, as this would be replaced with Eduard etch pieces.  The etch was "adjusted" to allow for the D hinge then some percussive perssuassion to fix my adjustments.  Lastly, I glued the etch to the inner door and quickly pushed this into place.  Here's the results.

    In the next pic, you can also see the hole drilled for the crank handle for the inertia starter.


    This is reasonably unobtrussive, and hasn't interferred with the mounting of other parts yet to go in to each cockpit half.
    At long last, I was able to do some painting.  I like to do as much airbrushing as I can in one go, as cleaning the airbrush usually takes longer than the actual painting.  The wheel wells for the undercarriage were assembled, and the wings assembled.  This gave me the opportunity to check the fit of each wing part to the fuselage before they're joined to the fuselage as a whole, and make any adistments.  I've left out the 30cal wing guns as P-39Q's didn't have them.  They could be fitted with an externally mounted 50cal machine gun, but most of the pictures I've seen of VVS Airacobras show them without.

    Lastly, the cockpit floor has been completed and I've begun weathering.  I painted the floor in rattle can aluminium, them airbrushed everything you see above, and more still on the sprues.  When I went to scratch the floor, paint peeled off.  I tried to fix this with a silver pen I have, but as you can see it looks naff.  It's since been fixed with drybrushing of green and silver  which looks a lot better.

    Next up is to start work on the seat belts which always make me feel , but they're a must in models of this size.  I'll then install the seat, joystick, finish and install the instrument panel and do more work on the engine, then start on the guns up front.  This plane packs a lot into the fuselage for a single engine fighter and I'm going very carefully in light of the experience here of others.  So far, I have to say this is a well engineered kit, but the reality is that I've got a long way to go before I can close up the fuselage.  One thing I have found is that each part needs very careful cleaning as you remove it from the sprue, then check the fit before gluing, including checking the fit as a whole in each half of the fuselage.  Also, the plastic is soft, so if you file any bits, make sure that you remove any "fur" around the edges before test fitting.
    That's it for the moment.
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