Roy vd M. got a reaction from dutik in Arado E-377, Cammett kit - He-162 in progress
Probably you've seen this site already but better be safe than sorry: http://www.luft46.com/armament/are377.html
Here you can see an indeed bare metal-finished other model: http://s165541488.e-shop.info/shop/system/detailimage?sessid=omLwZuaRoqV2S0wYKQ0t73cM1wkj86GOalOhaQzdXGv7rvbTueHf5QXRcd4SunET&shop_param=cid%3D2%26aid%3DKIT002%26position%3Dposition1%26
And here: http://www.48specialmodels.com/48pics/e-377pics/e377-17.jpg
Not intending to be picky, just wanting to help
Roy vd M. got a reaction from sandokan in Total Scratch build of the front end of a B17G!
Thanks Roy.....the vertical ribs are just plain an simple plastic card.....I put a strip where the rib is to go first (after punching holes with a needle to represent rivets) and then glue on top of that another fine cut strip !...takes some time but works I think
Thanks for the reply... however what I mean is the ribs running from top to bottom. So the ones with a wider strip 'on top'. It puzzles me how you achieved the bend in the narrow middle piece. I made a little drawing to show you what I mean. I'm talking about the strip that, on the drawing, is referenced as "this strip". I hope I made the drawing correct.
Roy vd M. reacted to Muddi in Revell He 219 A-5, G9+DB, Stab I./NJG 1
I'd like to show you my recently finished big Revell He 219. Wheels are from Eduard and the markings are painted, using Montex masks.
It is the largest kit I've ever built and it was a lot of fun. However I did not succeed in getting the radar antennae straight and in trying to break up the rather monotone camouflage, the weathering came out a bit too heavy. But in the end I am still quite happy with the look of it.
Thank you for looking.
Roy vd M. reacted to plane_mc in B-17G Late - HKM - plane_mc
Hello everyone, I have been lurking here for a long time (too long) and decided it was time to come out and contribute.
First off, I would like to say that this forum has an incredible amount of talented people posting on it, I hope my contributions don't bring it down too much.
I should probably start out with an introduction. I build pretty much anything that catches my eye. I really like the one-off stuff and odd-balls, mostly military, but I also do some civilian stuff. I have built a few large scale kits in the past including aircraft, cars and a couple of 1/6 military vehicles. I was working on a 1/6 DML M4A3 Sherman when I got my B-17 kit. After a few months, I decided to put the Sherman aside and work on the B-17. I have always been a fan of the B-17 and consider it my favorite WWII aircraft and I was thrilled when I heard that a large scale kit was going to be produced. I knew I had to get one.
I must warn everyone that I am an extremely slow builder and this may take a while, but I will try to keep posting my progress as I go. I also apologize in advance for my photography skills, or lack of them.
I didn't take any pictures of my progress until now, so I don't have any â€œstartâ€ pictures except for a couple I took with the Sherman to show someone the size of it.
I have a few aftermarket sets, but not all of them. I will try to scratch build the details that I don't have aftermarket for. I am also going to try to light the interior to make it easier to see. I have some ideas and some small, surface mount LEDs that I am going to try to incorporate into the build.
At the moment, I am skipping around and working on different areas as I find information about them.
I started in the radio room and after modifying the kit floor and not being happy with it, I decided to make a new one out of .040â€ sheet styrene.
Then I got the crazy idea to open up the strike camera bay and detail it out. I also opened up the doors in the bottom of the fuselage. I don't think I am going to put the camera in there for a couple of reasons: First, I haven't seen any good pictures of the strike camera to use to make it and second, almost all of the reference I have of the camera bay show it without the camera installed. I still have to add the wiring and a couple of other small details.
To be continued. . .
Roy vd M. reacted in 1/4 scale BDU-33/Finished Product
Turned this out for a desk display for a friend of mine. We both loaded bazillions of these in our USAF days.
He wanted a 6" model for his desk at work so I obliged.
It's 99% done, just waiting on a 1/4" end mill to countersink the suspension lug into its threaded slot and then a good polishing.
Weighs in at about eight ounces or so. I can only imagine some RC folks wanting to do some practice drops with it. LOL!
Nope, not gonna paint it blue....though I may do it on the next one.
The Finished Product:
Roy vd M. reacted to fozzy in Total Scratch build of the front end of a B17G!
My thanks to SD ,Boris and Shep for your support
Okay...so I have a small update for you.
I am trying to get all the small detail done before I have a go at the 50 cal cheek guns...and here is some of the small detail..........
THE ASTRODOME DETAIL
Here we have a couple of photos of the detail ....and just to point out that a lot of it was guess work!!!!
CHEEK GUN ATTACHMENT CABLES AND PULLEYS
There will be another two cables attached to the pulleys when the Guns are mounted in the windows........................
Bloody fidely I'll tell you!!!!
So its on to the Guns!!........This will probably take some time as two of them will have to be made ...but I'll post updates on them as and when I get any progress done.
Cheers for looking in
Roy vd M. reacted to Madelf75 in 1/32 ZM HE 219 A-0 UHU
1/32 ZM HE 219 A-0 UHU
Hello again this is my UHU it was built with ZM photo etch in the cockpit and on the air frame ,I also used some of there turned metal part set which gives you new radar antenna and some nice new parts in the wheel well. On the hole air frame I added in the rivet detail using a Rosie riveter tool, All marking were masked off and painted on
Roy vd M. got a reaction from MARU5137 in Second Attempt at HKM B-17G With Some Minor Improvements.
Wow having Googled some pics... that looks immensely different from a Heinkel bomb bay.
I was wondering how these bombs would fall. So my friend Youtube showed me this remarkable video of some guys having fun dropping B17 bombs. If you haven't seen it already perhaps you'll see something of interest.
Roy vd M. reacted to Silver Dollar in Second Attempt at HKM B-17G With Some Minor Improvements.
@Roy-- I'm definitely having fun building this kit. When it stops being fun, I get up from the work bench and do something else. I usually put in about 2 hours each night but if one or two nights go by with no building, I just take it in stride and go back when I feel like it. Also, if I decide to put in a certain amount of detail and it causes a bunch of stress, I either find another way to do it or I leave it out. A lot of stress will cause me to table the whole deal and I won't let that happen again.
As far as the wiring goes, there are control cables at the top of the bay and bundles of wire running along the bay sides and around the bulkheads. There are a few boxes stuck to the walls and the wiring from those joins up with the bundles. It's similar to the bundles you find on the navigator's side of bulkhead #1 behind the instrument panel. It's basically subtle but effective. Thanks for putting up that bomb dropping video. That's cool.
@Craig--Thanks for the kind words. I definitely want to complete this model and do some creative black and white photography to see if I can get this to look as real as possible.
@fozzy-- Thanks so much for the great compliment. 4 days for the gunsight? I can see that happening especially at the scale your doing. I've had days like that. Heck, I've had weeks like that. The good thing about it is that when you finally perfect an assembly, it's one huge rush you can't get anywhere else. That's what keeps us going on to the next challenge.
Roy vd M. reacted to Heavens Eagle in Heinkel He 111
Looking very good Roy! One other thing you can do to assemble your cell boxes (since they are made from brass) would be to solder them along the edges. It is simple to do if you follow some important steps.
Use flux or the solder won't flow. Pre-tin the edges lightly, just enough to have a silver colored coating with no large lumps. Have a jig to hold the parts securely together and just heat the edges so the solder flows and connects together. Use the solder sparingly, but be sure the iron is clean and has a little puddle of solder on it to help carry the heat to the parts to be soldered.
Here is a link to a thread where I was building 1/48 WW1 Hannover that had a complex cockpit that I soldered together. There are some more bits of the build on 5 or 6 of the preceding pages that you might find interesting as well. I should repost this to it's own thread, but don't have the time right now. http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/29/t/135251.aspx?sort=ASC&pi240=52
Keep up the good work Roy!
Roy vd M. got a reaction from MARU5137 in Revell He219 "UHU" - with a little help from my friends!
What an extraordinary beauty.
You know that you succeeded when you look at it and can say "What a handsome-looking plane that is" and by 'plane' you mean the original.
Really great work.
Roy vd M. got a reaction from AndersN in Heinkel He 111
In this index an overview is given of the posts that show work or overviews of knowhow re. a certain aspect of the build. In other words, it's trying to be a red line of relevance throughout the thread. This in no means that all the great advice, tips, hints, compliments, motivational remarks and other great content from all who commented in any way, should be forgotten and I won't. Frankly I couldn't do without those kind and helpful replies. The hereunder overview is merely made for the ease of reference for myself (take a look at the number of pages of this thread on the one hand and the number of items in the index on the other, and you'll see) but also for those who are building a He 111 themselves and need reflection re. a certain aspect of the build.
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=532968 (RLM colours on the 111)
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=533293 (RLM colours on the 111)
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=533460 (overview of remaining 111)
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=532219 (doors in or out?)
2. Cockpit up to and including 1st bulkhead
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=526418 (cockpit in general)
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=526571 (cockpit in general)
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=526968 (communicator scratch build)
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=526972 (communicator scratch build)
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=526974 (communicator scratch build)
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=528979 (bulkhead mod)
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=529211 (Master Details cockpit set sorting job)
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=530153 (pilot seat lifting mechanism mod)
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=530188 (pilot seat lifting mechanism mod)
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=530579 (pilot seat lifting mechanism mod)
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=530595 (bulkhead mod)
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=530595 (bulkhead mod)
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=530885 (bulkhead mod)
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=530888 (bulkhead mod)
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=531505 (bulkhead mod)
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=532109 (doors sliding system)
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=532580 (doors sliding system)
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=532861 (doors sliding system)
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=533760 (doors sliding system)
3. Bomb room up to and including 2nd bulkhead
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=531505 (bomb racks)
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=531509 (bomb racks)
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=545792 (bomb racks scratch build part 1)
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=546031 (bomb racks scratch build part 2)
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=546219 (bomb racks scratch build part 3)
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=546261 (bomb racks scratch build part 4)
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=547645 (bomb racks scratch build part 5)
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=547646 (bomb racks scratch build part 6)
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=547762 (bomb racks scratch build part 7)
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=548424 (bomb racks scratch build part 8)
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=549779 (bomb racks scratch build part 9)
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=550158 (correct bomb rack measurements)
4. Radio and gunners room up to and including 3rd bulkhead
5. Landing gear
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=528013 (brake lines)
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=528035 (brake lines)
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=528286 (brake lines)
The kit + aftermarket parts
- Revell He 111 P1 (which is really a P2);
- Eduard Big Ed;
- CMK tailwheelstrut and bay;
- PM Profimodeller pitot tube;
- Master MG15s;
- Profimodeller oxygen masks and systems set;
- Kagero 111 P2 decals;
- Aires Quickboost exhaust set;
- 8x MDC SC 250 bomb;
- Master Details cockpit interior;
- MasterCasters weighted wheels.
Planned extra work:
- Reading about the plane and its functionality while the build progresses;
- Scratchbuilding and trying to copy Nigel's work on the interior (ribs, flooring etc.);
- Scratchbuilding as much detail as I can find on pics and drawings of the interior and exterior;
- All the riveting (including part of the interior);
- correcting Eduard's two-dimensional brake lines by using copper wire;
- the larger markings will not be 'decalled' but painted on, to preserve rivet detail.
- He 111 P2 while it is being converted into a P3 (P2 is the base kit version, although Revell claims it's a P1 - probably because the Gardermoen museum specimen on which the kit was based USED TO BE a P1 before it was converted into a P2);
- One of the two bomb racks will be shown already removed from the plane, standing in front of it. This way, the rack's detail will be very well visible and also the interior of the bomb room will be much better visible. Also the plane's internal bomb raising system will be visible. I guess not many 111 models show the bomb raising mechanism detail because when both bomb racks are installed it's almost invisible to anyone other than the insects domiciled in the fuselage.
- Plane coded â€˜1G+DL' of 3./KG 27, crew: Uffz. Otto Wehmeier (pilot), Uffz. Arthur Voigt (observer), Uffz. Otto Miklitz (flight engineer), Uffz. Manfred Kisker (radio operator); MÃ¼nster-Handorf, 10 May 1940 (3rd option of the Kagero decals set) without the images; or I'll make my own codes. As the decals will not be applied to the plane (codes will be painted on) I'll have some flexibility.
- To be set in a very large diorama (at least 1 m2) also featuring at least the Verlinden power cart, a Verlinden fuel cart, a Verlinden bomb loader, a Zoukei-Mura Kettenkrad plus cart and some figures. It will be set in a hangar + work shop.
Specific Heinkel He 111 literature used
- Walkaround (Squadron);
- Kagero monograph 8 (Kagero);
- Aerodetail 18 (Model Graphix);
- Heinkel He 111 in action (Squadron);
- Heinkel He 111 WWII Combat Aircraft Photo Archive (Airdoc);
- Bedienungsvorschrifte 111 (2 factory manuals);
- Bewegliche Waffe (7 factory manuals);
- Abwurfwaffe (5 factory manuals);
- Bewaffnung BildgerÃ¤t (2 factory manuals).
- Bordfunkanlage (factory manual).
- Montage- und Betriebsanleitung (2 factory manuals).
- Lehrbildreihe 35 (factory picture manual).
- Ersatzteilliste (factory book of 111 spare parts).
- FlugzeughandbÃ¼cher 00, 01, 02, 03, 04, 05, 06, 07, 08, 09A, 9B1, 9B2, 9C, 9D, 9E, 12A, 12B, 12D, 12G (19 factory manuals).
- Several online sources (such as this! http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=33650&do=findComment&comment=309634)
- http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=42394 (Ralph Riese). Stalled February 2013. Specifically interesting for riveting.
- http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=43287 (ArnoldLayne). Stalled June 2013. Couple of nice Casa 111 pics.
- http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=44960 (Bigg943). Stalled July 2013. Nice to see how the Revell bomb bay doesn't look too bad!
- http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=36954 (Nigelr32). Stalled December 2012. Informative on many aspects, mainly including fuselage interior.
- http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=39743 (Animalmother). Quick build, not sure if finished.
- http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=39014 (Scvrobeson). Doors in situ, nicely riveted (see page 4), beautiful result.
(to be continued)
Current build status
- Learning about the bomb bay and preparing their build.
Roy vd M. got a reaction from MARU5137 in Heinkel He 111
Scratchbuilding a Heinkel 111 bomb bay - part 7
WARNING: THE HEREUNDER STEP PLAN WILL NOT BE USED TO CONSTRUCT THE BOMB CELLS. SEE NEXT POST. FOR A BETTER STEP PLAN SEE HERE: http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=548424
Okay, now for the 8 step build plan. I've actually timed each step. In total, carving one part takes 2 hours and 25 minutes.
- Construct the template for the part, as I described here: http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=546219 and http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=546261
- Construct the template for the holes, as I described after picture 4 here: http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=547645
- Construct the template for the folds, as referenced after picture 9 here: http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=546219
1. (takes 5 minutes) Take a smooth piece of (sufficiently large) brass. Take the part mold and put it over the brass sheet, aligning ONLY the bottom (important, if you align both the bottom and the side bordering to a holes part, the holes cannot be punched without torque damage). Use painters tape to stick both tightly together but don't cover any of the 18 holes. Then take the holes mold and place it on top of the part mold, aligning it perfectly with the holes of the part template. Stick it on with painters tape (no need to use expensive Tamiya tape here).
2. (takes 30 minutes) Remove 2 pins of your punch&die. Do so at your own risk, chances are very high that you will damage the base of your expensive P&D set! But if you won't remove the pins you won't be able to punch all the holes. Place the 3-sheet-combination exactly above the 3.5 millimeter hole. Check this by ensuring that, on the OUTSIDE of the punch cilinder, each of the 4 grid lines touches exactly the half of the hole diameter. Difficult to describe without mathematics. I'd better demonstrate it in a picture (see below). I mean the grid line as depicted by the 4 arrows in the hereunder picture. Those 4 arrows also show the direction to look.
After aligning the hole, check if the base and top of the punch & die are aligned as well. If not, reposition and align everything again.
After aligning, enter the punch and even try to align that one as much to the center as possible (with a new punch & die set it should already be perfectly centered). 3x alignment check? Hit! If the small circular disk you just punched out is still stuck to the sheet, remove it by gently bending to- and forth. Eventually (for sure after some 20 times) it will get loose. Repeat this for all 9 holes. Then reposition the holes template to the other set of 9 holes and repeat.
3. (takes 5 minutes) Remove the tape holding the holes template. Then use the scratch pen to (very softly!!!) mark 8 holes where the keyholes are. Use the template as a guide.
Then remove the rest of the tape. Check if the keyhole markings are correct. Use the scratch pen to make deeper markings. Next, mount a 0.8mm drill on your Proxxon or Dremel. The best way to tackle this with a Proxxon is to turn it on and then pull the knob back until the motor stops. Position the drill on the sheet and let the knob go. Holes are drilled correctly in place with no effort. This must be the easiest part of this whole scratch build.
4. (takes 20 minutes) Mount a 0,3 mm. drill in a knife holder. Put the sheet over the punch & die base. Align the 'keyhole' hole over one of the two recently unpinned holes. Use the 'saw' to make the thin slit upwards. Repeat 7 times. Check the correct path constantly. Don't push the drill piece too hard or it will break.
5. (takes 10 minutes) Sand the 18 vent holes with a Proxxon / Dremel machine equipped with a sanding ball. As a base, again use one of the two holes of the punch & die base where you had previously removed a pin. Take care not to bend or deform the sheet (also applies during the other steps).
6. (takes 35 minutes) Stick the part template back on, leaving the octagonal holes uncovered. Use a scratch pen to mark the sides of the octagonal holes on the new part. Remove the tape. Take the sharpest knife you can find. Starting with a long side, align a ruler along it, start in a corner and cut to about halfway. Then start from the other side and end in the middle. Then do the other side of that same hole. Next, the diagonal and horizontal lines. Carefully take it out. Finally, file the sides with a squared file as long as necessary to get a nice result. Be careful not to bend the part while filing, use a cutting mat as 'holder' for example.
7. (takes 30 minutes) Stick the part template back on, attach only at the bottom. Next, use a ruler as guide and a sharp knife and carefully cut off the 3 sides in straight lines. Then, use a ruler and knife to mark the outer lines of the part (on top). Remove the tape and cut off the unnecessary metal. File until it looks the deal.
8. (takes 10 minutes) Check which side looks nicest, that will be the outer side. Take the bending mold, put it in position (the beginning of the side walls can be distinguished by the above strips). Scratch the fold lines on the side opposite the nice-looking side. Start with the left and right vertical ones, then the middle vertical one, then the horizontal line.
Scribe the horizontal fold line. Then, make two smaller horizontal fold lines (which will serve as attachment points for some internal structure later) as depicted on the hereunder picture. Finally, with a sharp knife, cut the sides of the latter two to-be-folded strips loose (see picture).
And there it is, a finished base part! Beside preparing the 3 template pieces and the research, it apparently takes 2 hours and 25 minutes per piece. 2 ready (the mould one I'll probably not use in the build as it looks less attractive than the other ones... but perhaps, for a change, I'll use it anyway), 6 to go.
Time spent building, planning, drawing plans: 71H. Studying: 43H.
Roy vd M. got a reaction from MARU5137 in Heinkel He 111
Hi Paul, after your tip and after a tip of my girlfriend (!) and a bit of thinking myself I now have a great method to making these parts. I'll describe it later.
Here a preliminary picture of the result of both the side wall and the bow-tie shaped layer over it. This bow-tie part I'll have to redo by the way, because I made a mistake in the low-right diagonal as you can see.
Without the bow-tie picture, here you can see a comparison between the previously made part, the Eduard part and the part made according to the latest-used technique.
Thank you SO very much for your input. It looks much better now, is better for the material and is much easier to make.