Roy vd M.

Probably you've seen this site already but better be safe than sorry: http://www.luft46.com/armament/are377.html
 
Here you can see an indeed bare metal-finished other model: http://s165541488.e-shop.info/shop/system/detailimage?sessid=omLwZuaRoqV2S0wYKQ0t73cM1wkj86GOalOhaQzdXGv7rvbTueHf5QXRcd4SunET&shop_param=cid%3D2%26aid%3DKIT002%26position%3Dposition1%26
 
And here: http://www.48specialmodels.com/48pics/e-377pics/e377-17.jpg
 
http://www.48specialmodels.com/48pics/e-377pics/e377-19.jpg
 
Not intending to be picky, just wanting to help

Only thing I was wondering about, aren't the (pneumatic?) cilinders supposed to be bare metal? Or is that still something that needs to be done?

Nice work, love to see equipment build..

Thanks Roy.....the vertical ribs are just plain an simple plastic card.....I put a strip where the rib is to go first (after punching holes with a needle to represent rivets) and then glue on top of that another fine cut strip !...takes some time but works I think 
 
Thanks for the reply... however what I mean is the ribs running from top to bottom. So the ones with a wider strip 'on top'. It puzzles me how you achieved the bend in the narrow middle piece. I made a little drawing to show you what I mean. I'm talking about the strip that, on the drawing, is referenced as "this strip". I hope I made the drawing correct. 
 

Hi again,
 
I'd like to show you my recently finished big Revell He 219. Wheels are from Eduard and the markings are painted, using Montex masks.
It is the largest kit I've ever built and it was a lot of fun. However I did not succeed in getting the radar antennae straight and in trying to break up the rather monotone camouflage, the weathering came out a bit too heavy. But in the end I am still quite happy with the look of it.
 

He219A-5-00 Flickr

He219A-5-01 Flickr

He219A-5-02 Flickr

He219A-5-03 Flickr

He219A-5-04 Flickr

He219A-5-06 Flickr

He219A-5-07 Flickr

He219A-5-08 Flickr
 
Thank you for looking.
Nico

Hello everyone, I have been lurking here for a long time (too long) and decided it was time to come out and contribute. 
 
First off, I would like to say that this forum has an incredible amount of talented people posting on it, I hope my contributions don't bring it down too much. 
 
I should probably start out with an introduction.  I build pretty much anything that catches my eye. I really like the one-off stuff and odd-balls, mostly military, but I also do some civilian stuff.  I have built a few large scale kits in the past including aircraft, cars and a couple of 1/6 military vehicles.  I was working on a 1/6 DML M4A3 Sherman when I got my B-17 kit.  After a few months, I decided to put the Sherman aside and work on the B-17.  I have always been a fan of the B-17 and consider it my favorite WWII aircraft and I was thrilled when I heard that a large scale kit was going to be produced.  I knew I had to get one. 
 
I must warn everyone that I am an extremely slow builder and this may take a while, but I will try to keep posting my progress as I go. I also apologize in advance for my photography skills, or lack of them. 
 
I didn't take any pictures of my progress until now, so I don't have any “start†pictures except for a couple I took with the Sherman to show someone the size of it.
 

 

 
 I have a few aftermarket sets, but not all of them.  I will try to scratch build the details that I don't have aftermarket for.  I am also going to try to light the interior to make it easier to see.  I have some ideas and some small, surface mount LEDs that I am going to try to incorporate into the build.
 

 

 
At the moment, I am skipping around and working on different areas as I find information about them.
I started in the radio room and after modifying the kit floor and not being happy with it, I decided to make a new one out of .040†sheet styrene. 
 

 
Then I got the crazy idea to open up the strike camera bay and detail it out.  I also opened up the doors in the bottom of the fuselage.  I don't think I am going to put the camera in there for a couple of reasons:  First, I haven't seen any good pictures of the strike camera to use to make it and second, almost all of the reference I have of the camera bay show it without the camera installed.  I still have to add the wiring and a couple of other small details.
 

 

 

 

 

 
To be continued. . .

Turned this out for a desk display for a friend of mine.  We both loaded bazillions of these in our USAF days. 
 
He wanted a 6" model for his desk at work so I obliged. 
 
It's 99% done, just waiting on a 1/4" end mill to countersink the suspension lug into its threaded slot and then a good polishing. 
 
Weighs in at about eight ounces or so.  I can only imagine some RC folks wanting to do some practice drops with it.  LOL!
 
Nope, not gonna paint it blue....though I may do it on the next one.
 

 
 
 
The Finished Product:
 

Yeah, and the model bomb is pretty slick too!
 
Tim

Hi all
 
My thanks to SD ,Boris and Shep for your support
 
Okay...so I have a small update for you.
 
I am trying to get all the small detail done before I have a go at the 50 cal cheek guns...and here is some of the small detail..........
 
Starting with................
 
THE ASTRODOME DETAIL
 
Here we have a couple of photos of the detail ....and just to point out that a lot of it was guess work!!!!
 

 

 
CHEEK GUN ATTACHMENT CABLES AND PULLEYS
 
There will be another two cables attached to the pulleys when the Guns are mounted in the windows........................
 

 

 

 

 
Bloody fidely I'll tell you!!!!
 
So its on to the Guns!!........This will probably take some time as two of them will have to be made ...but I'll post updates on them as and when I get any progress done.
 
Cheers for looking in
 
Fozzy

1/32 ZM HE 219 A-0 UHU 
 
Hello again this is my UHU it was built with ZM photo etch in the cockpit and on the air frame ,I also used some of there turned metal part set which gives you new radar antenna and some nice new parts in the wheel well. On the hole  air frame I added in the rivet detail using a Rosie riveter tool, All marking were masked off and painted on  
 

 

 

 

@Roy-- I'm definitely having fun building this kit.  When it stops being fun, I get up from the work bench and do something else.  I usually put in about 2 hours each night but if one or two nights go by with no building, I just take it in stride and go back when I feel like it.  Also, if I decide to put in a certain amount of detail and it causes a bunch of stress, I either find another way to do it or I leave it out.  A lot of stress will cause me to table the whole deal and I won't let that happen again.  
 
As far as the wiring goes, there are control cables at the top of the bay and bundles of wire running along the bay sides and around the bulkheads.  There are a few boxes stuck to the walls and the wiring from those joins up with the bundles.  It's similar to the bundles you find on the navigator's side of bulkhead #1 behind the instrument panel.  It's basically subtle but effective.  Thanks for putting up that bomb dropping video.  That's cool.  
 
@Craig--Thanks for the kind words.  I definitely want to complete this model and do some creative black and white photography to see if I can get this to look as real as possible.  
 
@fozzy-- Thanks so much for the great compliment.  4 days for the gunsight?  I can see that happening especially at the scale your doing.  I've had days like that.  Heck, I've had weeks like that.  The good thing about it is that when you finally perfect an assembly, it's one huge rush you can't get anywhere else.    That's what keeps us going on to the next challenge.    

Many many thanks to all. 
 
I have some.. The main reason for hours is Big-Ed Eduard, and little bit of scratch.

73 days of build, over 355 hours... all extras for this kit. It was really hard job. 
 
Here are some final photos... 
 
Going for a beer... 
 

Looking very good Roy!  One other thing you can do to assemble your cell boxes (since they are made from brass) would be to solder them along the edges.  It is simple to do if you follow some important steps.
 
Use flux or the solder won't flow.  Pre-tin the edges lightly, just enough to have a silver colored coating with no large lumps.  Have a jig to hold the parts securely together and just heat the edges so the solder flows and connects together.  Use the solder sparingly, but be sure the iron is clean and has a little puddle of solder on it to help carry the heat to the parts to be soldered.
 
Here is a link to a thread where I was building  1/48 WW1 Hannover that had a complex cockpit that I soldered together.  There are some more bits of the build on 5 or 6 of the preceding pages that you might find interesting as well.  I should repost this to it's own thread, but don't have the time right now.  http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/29/t/135251.aspx?sort=ASC&pi240=52
 
Keep up the good work Roy!

Thread index
In this index an overview is given of the posts that show work or overviews of knowhow re. a certain aspect of the build. In other words, it's trying to be a red line of relevance throughout the thread. This in no means that all the great advice, tips, hints, compliments, motivational remarks and other great content from all who commented in any way, should be forgotten and I won't. Frankly I couldn't do without those kind and helpful replies. The hereunder overview is merely made for the ease of reference for myself (take a look at the number of pages of this thread on the one hand and the number of items in the index on the other, and you'll see) but also for those who are building a He 111 themselves and need reflection re. a certain aspect of the build. 
 
1. General
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=532968 (RLM colours on the 111)
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=533293 (RLM colours on the 111)
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=533460 (overview of remaining 111)
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=532219 (doors in or out?)
 
2. Cockpit up to and including 1st bulkhead
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=526418 (cockpit in general)
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=526571 (cockpit in general)
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=526968 (communicator scratch build)
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=526972 (communicator scratch build)
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=526974 (communicator scratch build)
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=528979 (bulkhead mod)
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=529211 (Master Details cockpit set sorting job)
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=530153 (pilot seat lifting mechanism mod)
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=530188 (pilot seat lifting mechanism mod)
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=530579 (pilot seat lifting mechanism mod)
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=530595 (bulkhead mod)
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=530595 (bulkhead mod)
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=530885 (bulkhead mod)
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=530888 (bulkhead mod)
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=531505 (bulkhead mod)
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=532109 (doors sliding system)
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=532580 (doors sliding system)
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=532861 (doors sliding system)
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=533760 (doors sliding system)
 
3. Bomb room up to and including 2nd bulkhead
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=531505 (bomb racks)
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=531509 (bomb racks)
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=545792 (bomb racks scratch build part 1)
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=546031 (bomb racks scratch build part 2)
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=546219 (bomb racks scratch build part 3)
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=546261 (bomb racks scratch build part 4)
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=547645 (bomb racks scratch build part 5)
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=547646 (bomb racks scratch build part 6)
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=547762 (bomb racks scratch build part 7)
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=548424 (bomb racks scratch build part 8)
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=549779 (bomb racks scratch build part 9)
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=550158 (correct bomb rack measurements)
 
4. Radio and gunners room up to and including 3rd bulkhead
 
5. Landing gear
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=528013 (brake lines)
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=528035 (brake lines)
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48155&p=528286 (brake lines)
 
6. Exterior
 
The kit + aftermarket parts
- Revell He 111 P1 (which is really a P2);
- Eduard Big Ed;
- CMK tailwheelstrut and bay;
- PM Profimodeller pitot tube;
- Master MG15s;
- Profimodeller oxygen masks and systems set;
- Kagero 111 P2 decals;
- Aires Quickboost exhaust set;
- 8x MDC SC 250 bomb;
- Master Details cockpit interior;
- MasterCasters weighted wheels.
 
Planned extra work:
- Reading about the plane and its functionality while the build progresses;
- Scratchbuilding and trying to copy Nigel's work on the interior (ribs, flooring etc.);
- Scratchbuilding as much detail as I can find on pics and drawings of the interior and exterior;
- All the riveting (including part of the interior);
- correcting Eduard's two-dimensional brake lines by using copper wire;
- the larger markings will not be 'decalled' but painted on, to preserve rivet detail.
 
The model
- He 111 P2 while it is being converted into a P3 (P2 is the base kit version, although Revell claims it's a P1 - probably because the Gardermoen museum specimen on which the kit was based USED TO BE a P1 before it was converted into a P2);
- One of the two bomb racks will be shown already removed from the plane, standing in front of it. This way, the rack's detail will be very well visible and also the interior of the bomb room will be much better visible. Also the plane's internal bomb raising system will be visible. I guess not many 111 models show the bomb raising mechanism detail because when both bomb racks are installed it's almost invisible to anyone other than the insects domiciled in the fuselage. 
- Plane coded ‘1G+DL' of 3./KG 27, crew: Uffz. Otto Wehmeier (pilot), Uffz. Arthur Voigt (observer), Uffz. Otto Miklitz (flight engineer), Uffz. Manfred Kisker (radio operator); Münster-Handorf, 10 May 1940 (3rd option of the Kagero decals set) without the images; or I'll make my own codes. As the decals will not be applied to the plane (codes will be painted on) I'll have some flexibility. 
- To be set in a very large diorama (at least 1 m2) also featuring at least the Verlinden power cart, a Verlinden fuel cart, a Verlinden bomb loader, a Zoukei-Mura Kettenkrad plus cart and some figures. It will be set in a hangar + work shop. 
 
Specific Heinkel He 111 literature used
- Walkaround (Squadron);
- Kagero monograph 8 (Kagero);
- Aerodetail 18 (Model Graphix);
- Heinkel He 111 in action (Squadron);
- Heinkel He 111 WWII Combat Aircraft Photo Archive (Airdoc);
- Bedienungsvorschrifte 111 (2 factory manuals);
- Bewegliche Waffe (7 factory manuals);
- Abwurfwaffe (5 factory manuals);
- Bewaffnung Bildgerät (2 factory manuals).
- Bordfunkanlage (factory manual).
- Montage- und Betriebsanleitung (2 factory manuals).
- Lehrbildreihe 35 (factory picture manual).
- Ersatzteilliste (factory book of 111 spare parts).
- Flugzeughandbücher 00, 01, 02, 03, 04, 05, 06, 07, 08, 09A, 9B1, 9B2, 9C, 9D, 9E, 12A, 12B, 12D, 12G (19 factory manuals).
- Several online sources (such as this! http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=33650&do=findComment&comment=309634)
- http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=42394 (Ralph Riese). Stalled February 2013. Specifically interesting for riveting.
- http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=43287 (ArnoldLayne). Stalled June 2013. Couple of nice Casa 111 pics. 
- http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=44960 (Bigg943). Stalled July 2013. Nice to see how the Revell bomb bay doesn't look too bad!
- http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=36954 (Nigelr32). Stalled December 2012. Informative on many aspects, mainly including fuselage interior. 
- http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=39743 (Animalmother). Quick build, not sure if finished. 
- http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=39014 (Scvrobeson). Doors in situ, nicely riveted (see page 4), beautiful result.
(to be continued)
 
Current build status
- Learning about the bomb bay and preparing their build. 

Just saw this thread and it's amazing working here. Roy, buddy you got some amazing talent. I'll follow along and hopefully some of these amazing talent might get rubbed down on my modeling

Hey all!
Am new to this forum, but have been a builder off an on since I was 7. (oh my almost 50 years!) To be honest though I didn't build much from 1990 up till about 3 years ago. A friend gave me this kit and I jumped onto it a few months ago because I wanted to do the modification to the front louver panel to make it super thin and correctly opened up. After that I lost interest and had a new kit I really was wanting to build and it went on back burner.

Interest started simmering again a few weeks ago and Kevin gave me the OK to join in on the build so I will post the photos of progress to this point. Not really much work or time invested yet so "technically" I have not cheated on amount of time invested yet. We will see.

Thanks Kev!

Here is the build as it sits:














That engine is really due for some more work! It is really neat seeing a rotary engine spinning, should be even more so once I detail it out!

In addition I also have some Master Models machinings for the Spandau guns on order as well as some nice cast turnbuckles from GasPower Models. I will post photos of those once I receive them.

There has been a little bit of work done this last week or so. Here is an update to keep everyone up on the tweaks, mods and how to's.












To answer WillScarlet's question, here is an info piece.





That's all for now, time for a beer!

Inspirational work indeed Roy - Thank you for sharing your genius. This will be a very rewarding journey; keep up the good work
 
Derek

Glad my input helped Roy. That is one of the things I really like about these forums is te positive inputs from folks. Iam learning from your build a lot as well. I have this kit for a future build and had planned on just using the Eduard PE for detail and being done with it. Now am doing a rethink and might just make these from scratch similar to you except I might use the .005 and .010 inch thick plastic sheet I have (will make a brass master though)
 
Something that would be nice for us watching once you get all your sizing figured out, would be a nice drawing showing the dimensions of the part.
 
Looking good! Keep up the good work!

Introduction (originally included in the first post)
A couple of weeks ago the renewed inspiration led me to start on my Heinkel project again. One subject that had stalled was that of riveting. Last year I didn't know whether to use recessed or added rivets. Now I decided to do recessed riveting. I used Ralphs Riese's excellent thread: http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=42394&hl=heinkel&&page=2 for studying purposes. After a lot of research I found out that Kagero's plans also used by Ralph are not completely accurate. Also Ralph had decided not to copy the rivet locations and panel lines exactly, something that I did intend to do. I have plenty of time and I know that I won't be totally satisfied if there are panel lines in an incorrect fashion on my model. In the end I decided to try to make an appointment for close-up inspection of one of the two He 111s of the 'second type' that are available. I'll fly to London this February for that... was very nicely welcomed to have an up-and-close look at the plane. I plan to photograph as well as film every single rivet on the plane's exterior and yes I will be counting rivets when building my model. 
 
As regards the interior I will thoroughly use Nigel's thread on ribbing and other scratchbuilding: http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=36954&st=0  His absence from this forum surely will be a miss, I'd have liked to have asked his advice on several matters. 
 
Before making the decision to head to London I riveted (recessed) part of one wing. First I had filled the wrong panel lines and rivets, then I had scribed the correct panel lines and then I had pressed in the rivets. Not only did that warp that wing part, It also turned out to be wrong. Some 'width' riveting I did (as seen in Ralphs pictures) proved to be absent in the real plane. That's when I said "ok now I'm going to have a look at the real thing". I couldn't go on with Nigel's ribbing copywork because first I'd have to do the scribing and riveting. So first I'd have to go to London. 
 
A few weeks ago I decided to add more realism to add the rivets by using a "Nutter" set from The Small Shop: http://www.thesmallshop.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=6
 
So the rivets will have to be 'applied' one by one. 
 
To kill time and for further practice I worked on the Verlinden power supply cart. Build progress and finished model here: http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=47799&hl=
 
Perhaps I'll also lengthen the steering column horizontal piece. I'm not sure about that yet.
 
When looking at this photo I also see that the topmost photo etch part was not applied straight. I'll correct that also.
 
If you compare the top line of the seat with the line above that, you'll see what I mean by the 'not so straight' lineup. 
 
I'll be very pleased if I'll be able to learn some of the amazing things I've seen on this forum and in my studybooks and apply it to this kit. I realize perfectly well that the quality of this build will not be that of the master builders on this forum but I'll try my best.
 
Those who want to follow my progress: enjoy! And if you don't hear from me for a couple of months... that's just part of the overall plan; I'll return 
 
Time spent: 15H build 5H study

Something just occured to me while I was looking at your latest post Roy. That being the years of experience I had doing sheet metal prototype work.
 
What hit me was that the mor complex you make a single part, the harder it is to make it exact with hand tools and the easier it is to FUBAR it at the last step. Basically you are trying to make the whole box out of 1 piece of material. To do this you have had to modify your tooling and if you make a mistake, the whole part is damaged instead of just half. Which brings me to my suggestion, instead of making the whole box as 1 piece, make it as 2 pieces, a side with the holes and the side with the large hole. Then when you get ready to bend the parts, just make an accurate setup and bend them all the same.
 
The positives to this are if you make a mistake only a half part is lost not the whole part. Bending can be made more accurately as you only have 1 bend and can do that with the tool accurately. Punching the holes can be done without messing with your tool and possibly damaging it.
 
Then make a small jig to hold the parts while assembling the half parts together.
 
Also you could make one thick heavy pattern part carefully to use as a guide for punching the thin brass and the 16 small parts would be easier to make quickly and accurately. You could even use superglue to hold he thick pattern piece to the material while punching the holes, then get the CA to release by heating the part/tool with a lighter or candle.
 
Just a suggestion, and the pattern piece should be .020 to ,030 inchs thick minimum and actually put the punch down in the holes to align it.
 
Hope this helps.

One thing I would reccomend for anyone doing fine detail work, would be to buy a good quality Jewelers saw frame and fine blades. For cutting plastics and light metals it can't be beat. I have a number of different saw frames and this one is my absolute favorite! It holds the blades securely and I was able to swap the tightening knobs to the right side of the frame out of the way.
 
http://www.riogrande.com/Product/Swiss-Adjustable-4-Saw-Frame/110060?Pos=17

Roy,
 
Absolutely stunning work!  I have one question, though...how did you get rid of the injector pin marks on the inside of the fuselage?
 
Cheers,   Ian

Great work Roy! I'm exhausted after following all that though...
 
Kev