Jeff T

I had a similar method that was inspired because I couldn't nail the masks spot on when applying
them.  I'd mask off and paint areas of a clear decal sheet and paint each one with one of the colors
I needed.  Then cut the shapes with my Cameo and apply them as decals.  Like you said, they are
only microns thicker than paint.
https://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?/topic/74817-revelamiyastang/&do=findComment&comment=1091438
 

If you go this route, here's the tutorial: 
https://www.scalemodelpaintmasks.com/index.php?/topic/611-how-to-make-decals-with-masks/

Thanks Bill, yeah I've been watching the troubles you've been having with your build mate, and I was thinking, I wish I had Bill's perseverance at the moment with mine, difference being, you soldiered on, I had to have a break from mine!

 
Cheer's,
Jeff.

Will do Kev!...yeah, certainly been the most dramas I've ever had during a build, the lifting paint has been the biggest headache.

Cheer's,
Jeff.

I feel your pain.   Ive had some setbacks on my own jug, more than i want to comfortably admit.  The biggest was the left side fuselage disaster that followed the application of the kill markings, compounded by a major screw up involving mr surfacer and thinner that destroyed the correction i was trying to make.  
 
i ended up repainting the left side from the intercooler doors to the front of the cockpit.   I would have preferred that this didnt happen, but it did and i think the repair worked out ok.   
 
This is a beautiful effort.  To me, there is no shelf of shame.   Regroup and press on.   Your solution will work.   
 
use the down time to regroup and then whip this into shape.  

Sounds like things have been a bit of a pain with this build lately, Jeff. I wish you the best of luck with it, and be sure to keep us updated!
 
Kev

Hey all,
 
Just an update on where this model is at the moment,..... all the trials and tribulations with this build wore me down and I put it away for a while and did some Armour and a Tamiya Bike for some relief from it.
 
I finally pulled it back out the other day after getting a new Montex Mask set for it with the included decals of the bull's head.I ripped off the decal that I had touched up with paint because I wasn't happy with it, and made another mask out of Tamiya Tape using the new decal as a template, and sprayed the white background for the decal like I did on the other side.
 
So now I had two airbrushed white backgrounds for the new decals,...attempt number two with them, absolute disaster, if you dont get these decals in the exact position they need to be straight away,  forget about trying to move them around, they ripped, folded over, did everything but slide into position, even after the white section was polished with 12,000 grit micromesh.

I'm weighing up what my next step will be.
 
Cheer's,
Jeff.

Hey all,
 
Just an update on where this model is at the moment,..... all the trials and tribulations with this build wore me down and I put it away for a while and did some Armour and a Tamiya Bike for some relief from it.
 
I finally pulled it back out the other day after getting a new Montex Mask set for it with the included decals of the bull's head.I ripped off the decal that I had touched up with paint because I wasn't happy with it, and made another mask out of Tamiya Tape using the new decal as a template, and sprayed the white background for the decal like I did on the other side.
 
So now I had two airbrushed white backgrounds for the new decals,...attempt number two with them, absolute disaster, if you dont get these decals in the exact position they need to be straight away,  forget about trying to move them around, they ripped, folded over, did everything but slide into position, even after the white section was polished with 12,000 grit micromesh.

I'm weighing up what my next step will be.
 
Cheer's,
Jeff.

Looking good Dave!
 
Jeff.

Beautiful work Ralphy!
 
Superb.
 
Jeff.

Wow, looking good Marcin!
 
Jeff.

Hello all! 

This is my first post here, a Tonka GR.4 out of box except the Eduard/Brassin Brimstone.
Hope you like.
 
pics here:
https://imgur.com/gallery/xD0uC5y
 
WITH NEW BASE HERE:
https://imgur.com/gallery/i4Pz1KN
 
Cheers from Brazil!!

Ralphy
 
 


 

After staring at the vac windscreen for a while I decided I'll have to print a windscreen frame and worry about how to get the clear part to fit later.
 
Making 3D printed parts can be an iterative process, especially when fitting to a curved or irregular surface.  Here are three photos showing three of the four print iterations I had to do in order to get a good fit.  The first print is a basic "geometry checker".  The other prints are progressive tweaks to the part to get to the final form.
 
 

 

 

 
 
In the second photo I was checking that the instrument panel, cowling and HUD didn't collide with the frame.
 
Now I'll just putty in the gaps and prepare for more painting.
 
 

Club meeting tonight, so I brought the project along and took a picture of some parts with their general layout.  Tail feathers are installed, engine inlets installed.  I'm taking this opportunity to try different colors for the Honey Badger's light tan color.  The under-wing fuel tanks are painted with a previous color choice which I've since decided is a bit too yellow.  The fuselage is now wearing my next (final?) choice of tan - Mission Models MMP-010 Gelbbraun, yellowed a bit with some Vallejo Beige and darkened with some Vallejo USAF Tan.
 
 

Working on three areas now:  The exhaust, the inlets, and the canopy frame.
 
The exhaust area is a bit complex, and I'll post a photo later when it looks more presentable.  Now it looks mostly like a clump of Milliput.
 
The other bits look more presentable at this point, so here are pics of the inlets and canopy frame between front and rear cockpits.
 
 

 

 
 
I've decided both canopies need to be open.  This means I have to cook up some "electronicsey" looking stuff to put into the rear cockpit.  I only have one distant photo of the electronics bay to work from.  The sun shade over the equipment is actually attached to the rear canopy, so I can't hide anything under it.
 
I pre-painted the inside of the inlets, including the bare metal anti-iced inlet lip.
 
The canopy frame is 3D printed.
 

Revell kit 1/32,
HGW rivet set & wet transfers stencils.
Eduard Look,
Barracuda wheels,
All colours MRP
 



















 

Hello guys, at this topic I will show you one of greatest jets, served in our AF.
The project is inspirited by this plane:

 
For this target I've used trumpeter 1/32 scale Mig-21 MF. To became into a BIS I re-worked the nose-cone, nose itself, the back of the mig and a lot small details that make 21 into Bis.
For interior I used Redfox 3d print for MF and re-work it also, CWS, BigEd from Eduard, Master, Aires, Quickboost, Armory, Begemot and home-made decals.
As always acrylic tamiya for painting. Enamels, oils and acrylic pencils for weathering.
So here she is:
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Hope you will like her
Thanks as always for stopping by.
Cheers friends.
 
 

Finito!
The Akron Canton IPMS club has a nose-art theme coming up this winter and I was psyched to find something to use! I've had this P-38 in my stash since the Chattanooga Nats and this was the perfect reason to pull it out. I found the Exito decals for Beautiful Lass and it was all the extra graphics they provide that sold me on purchasing them.A little on the aircraft and pilot -
The plane was built by Lockheed in Burbank and shipped overseas disassembled and then reassembled. Lt. John O'Neill piloted Beautiful Lass from March to November 1943 on missions over Rabaul and New Guinea, claiming eight aerial victories during this period. The aircraft was lost on December 28 1943 when pilot Lt. Ormond Powell encountered foul weather and was declared MIA when he failed to return to base. 

5 coats of gloss clear, then rolled some 4000 grit paper on a dowel to sand down the edge of the decal all around to make sure it was perfectly smooth and you couldn't feel the lip from the decal (they are just a tad thick). Then I applied 2 coats of flat clear. By the time it dried the decal edge had totally disappeared. Super happy with this because it was so obvious to start with.

I preshaded in a lightened olive drab (used yellow zinc chromate) and then edged it all in black mist to get the varnish effect from the taped seams to show clearly. 

I modified a brush so it had just a few bristles and did the panel lines in aluminium. Tamiya leaves this center section smooth but the pics show lots of wear so this seemed to create the right affect.




I did the exhaust staining with rendered oils. I used ochra, burnt sienna, and raw umber

added some oil stains down under as well


And a final closing shot. I'm pretty darn happy with this  I still have some work to do on my assembly methods. Fortunately a little chipping goes a long way to hiding that haha

 

@Jeff TI think we have similar tastes here 
 
So my recent additions ....all 1/35 green heavy things....sorry  
 
Takom's Later Chieftains , the MK 11 bought in lock down 2nd hand for £66 ....when virtually all UK cold war armour kits had been bought out here in the UK ....(Dad Factor 11) and the MK10 which turned up this week from China for £36
....OH NO A BATTERED BOX .....heck it was worth it for the £30 price difference  .
Make no mistake Takom's gear is first rate and way beyond Tamiya's modern offerings . Good boxart too . 
 

 
 
 
And some Centurions .....early Mk 5 and later MK 5 which will become a MK11 with some additional effort .
Not done an Amusing Hobby before, the Cent AVRE version got good reviews , but us Brits can get a bit dewy eyed looking at our old tanks so we will see 
, I am familiar with AFV Clubs work . Bought some 1970's "hush puppy" tracks for the Mark 11 .....
 

 

 
 
And had these old rug runners for a while , having made both of them numerous times in the past   . Chieftain claims to be a MK 5 , but it is more MK2/4 , low engine decks , no MRS on the barrel, early 70's NBC filter not totem Pole upgrades  ....... I've built it OOB a few times and also modified it to be a bit more MK 6 . 
 
Centurion is pure 1950's MK III ,flat roof , bomb thrower , 20Lbr and all . When I first built the RC model in 1981, it had an interesting desert two colour camouflage option , but this seems to have been lost in subsequent reboxings. One of Tammy's greater box arts IMHO  Not sure either of these will get built anytime soon, but ya never know . 
 

 

 
Honestly I swear I'll make another LSP before Xmas , don't cancel my membership just yet 

No LSP stuff unfortunately, but a couple of items for some Armour builds I am doing.
 
1/35 Friulmodel M-42 Metal Tracks for the AFV Club Duster, and a set for the AFV Club Centurion.
 

 
.....And the Voyager PE Set for the AFV Club Duster,....this is very comprehensive, I dont know how much I'll end up using out of it.
 


 
Cheer's,
Jeff.
 
 

Superb work John!
 
This has turned out fantastic, top notch modelling all round.
 
Jeff.

Getting closer to the finish line.   I added arming wires to the 1,000 lb bombs (for some reason not many folks add these), finished up the weathering on the underside (I think), added the landing / ID lights on the lower wing and added the machine guns.   The Jug really does look bad-ass with those 8 .50 cals sticking out. 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
That's it for now, thanks for checking in. 
 
 

Thanks guys!    I'm getting to the home stretch now.    First order of business is the propeller.   Nothing fancy here, painted and decaled per the instructions.    On the front side I added some restrained weathering (very easy to over do this area).   I think the hub is too immaculate, I'll add a wash to it to tone things down a bit. 

 
However, on the backside of the props, it's a different story.   Many aircraft operating out of dirt strips show very heavy weathering of the back side of the props.   The dirt and fine rocks, etc, pretty much scoured the paint off.   This was very common while operating in the Pacific from coral airstrips but I see no reason why the same thing wouldn't happen on dusty, dirt strips in Italy.   If I'm wrong, so be it.

 
Next up is the canopy.   Like most models, Hase provides absolutely no features on the interior.   I struck out on references to show what was in this area but thanks to the awesome help of LSP's own Mike Maben, JayW and TAG, they provided the info needed to add a bit to this area.   In reality, there was some pretty complex cables, linkages and hardware for the emergency jettison apparatus (fun P-47 fact, unlike pretty much every WW2 fighter, the P-47 used an electric motor to open and shut the canopy).
I replicated this hardware using bits of sprue, scrap PE and resin bits.   Nothing special and it's actually pretty crude but it's better than seeing nothing (I think).  Sorry for the extra bad pictures, my camera has a hard time focusing in certain situations. 

 

 

 
Also, note that P-47 canopies had a rubber weather strip fixed to their lower side.  When closed, this would act as a rain / wind seal for the cockpit.   Obviously I've still got some small touch ups to do on the paint work. 

 

 

 
That's it for now, thanks for looking.

Stopped by an LHS that I've only bought paint from in the past online. They have some kit bundles as in-store specials only so I thought I'd check them out. 
 
Picked up a Kinetic Sabre for $100 Loonies. The stuff on top of the box was included in the price. 
 

 
When I got home and opens it, it had a couple bonus decals. 
 

 
I also picked up a Hasegawa D-9.
 

 
This one was a bit more at $140 Loonies but had the following:
 

 

 
Carl

No LSP stuff unfortunately, but a couple of items for some Armour builds I am doing.
 
1/35 Friulmodel M-42 Metal Tracks for the AFV Club Duster, and a set for the AFV Club Centurion.
 

 
.....And the Voyager PE Set for the AFV Club Duster,....this is very comprehensive, I dont know how much I'll end up using out of it.
 


 
Cheer's,
Jeff.