etendard reacted to ScottsGT in My wife packed her bags and is leaving me....
for 3 days to take our daughter skiing during her spring break. WooHoo!!
3 days at the bench (well, after I get home from work today and Friday that is) Should have most of the day Saturday too.
I might even get something accomplished!
etendard reacted to JayW in Scratch Building Tires - Diamond Tread Cutting
Last post was in July of 2016 - a year and a half ago. Meanwhile.....
Just now, I have diamond tread tires for my 1/18 scale P-47 Thunderbolt. How did I do it? Well thanks to Bill who gave me a good idea for a saw cutting jig in this topic thread, I did a version of that idea. I will start from the beginning.
First one must be able to manufacture or acquire a smooth tire. Mine is a lathe turned acrylic one. Here it is mostly complete on the lathe:
At this point one must decide on the tread pattern - how many rows, etc. For me that meant researching as many period photos as I could find and hoping I guessed about right. In the end I decided the tire needed 28 rows, with alternating rows of three complete diamonds, and two complete diamonds with two half diamonds. Then, a layout is required to determine the required angle of a straight saw cut. Draw a rectangle of arbitrary length (but long enough to draw several rows of diamonds) and a width that accurately represents the unwrapped width of the desired tread pattern. Here again I studied old photos to decide how far down the sidewall I wanted the tread to extend. Use a large scale so as to minimize error. You know that each diamond will be the diameter of the tire times pi divided by the number of rows (in my case 28). The width of the diamond is the unwrapped width of the tread pattern divided by how many complete diamonds you want (in my case three). The cut angle is then easily generated. In my case it was 41.5 degrees from the centerline of the tire (83 deg for the completed diamond shape, nearly square but not quite).
Now one must able to accurately maintain the cut angle for each cut, and accurately maintain the spacing of each cut. If you want to use a saw (that is what I decided), then you need a nice stout jig. Here it is:
You see the jig itself with upright posts to guide the saw blade and control its cut angle, a wide slot in which to insert the tire, cradle slots in which to support the axle, and a fixed pin protruding from the near side that engages a geared wheel. You also see the tire with special wheels, one of which is slotted to accept a cross pin on the axle. And you see the axle itself with its cross pin and a geared wheel (28 teeth) bonded to it. The teeth are meant to engage in the fixed pin on the jig, and meant to control the spacing of each cut. Got it?
Here is the setup with the first cut accomplished:
And more cuts:
Now truth be told, this jig had some problems. There is slop between the axle cross pin and its slot on the wheel, which allows some free rotation. Also the spacing between the upright posts is a bit generous which allows the saw blade to wander a bit. Add those up, and the diamond pattern becomes inconsistent, with unequal distance between rows such that some diamonds are larger than others, and/or mis-shapen. Which is exactly what we do not want.
So I made modifications. One, I added thicker shims to the sides of the saw blades such that the saw barely fit between the uprights thus eliminating any wiggle with the saw blade. Two, I created equidistant drill starts on the OD of the tire, giving me a target in which to center the saw cut (I could rotate the tire within limits due to the slop between the cross pin and its slot). And third, most importantly, I applied clamps to the jig once the tire was exactly positioned for the cut.
Some pics of the modifications:
This gave me a good result:
Were I to do it over, I would redesign the jig such that its posts were taller (allows for the cut to better wrap around the tire),and each pair of posts would be oriented perpendicular to the direction of cut, not the direction of the tire center plane. That would provide a stiffer support for the saw blade. I'd also want a slightly taller saw.
I want to thank (belatedly) all those modelers who contributed to this post. You gave me great ideas. I hope you like my solution and my result. And I hope it may help some of you in similar endeavors.
etendard reacted to MARU5137 in PLEASE put CONUS only, in the title, if you are CONUS only and save th
I sent 2 parcels recently..one to USA and one to MALAYSIA. Here is what took place:
The one to MALAYSIA was way too long and slightly wide.
I couldn't find an exact box so I improvised. MY raffle prize came from Scotland and Southern Bandit had used an old large(it was humongous actually ) DVD box.
I used that for the elongated kit box for Malaysian send off.It was secured really purty ( ) and off I marched/drive to the Post Office.
Nope you can NOT send that the woman behind the counter says.
Why not I ask.
It's way too big and over the regulated parcel size.
Really I say incredulously.
Yes she smirks!
Goodness ME... well I am not taking bits out and making smaller parcels.it will tear and break up the contents. Says I.
Why don't you drive there and give it to him she retorts.
What to Malaysia.?
Yes it's only across the border into Scotland she says and she WAS serious!
Erm.... Malaysia is not over the border.
Well she says I have been to MULL ISLAND and its not far.
Ma'am I say... getting out the cell phone finding a map on Google earth.and Showing her where it is going..
Oh I see she smirks
She finally says well the Royal Mail won't accept it..( I point out I have gotten massive boxes from SprueBrothers in the past & that were way WAY HUGE.
She finally says well I suppose I could send it via another courier..
So it went By PARCEL FORCE.
NOW why didn't she say that in the first place.
Paid her after filling the recipients details and ticked gift box and cost less than it may HAVE been to avoid custom duty ...
That was THAT!
Went in last week to post one to USA.
Normal to just a teeny weeny extra bigger.
Young girl weighed it. Wrote out a customs form .I signed it. Put the weight.
She sent it By ROYAL MAIL as signed and tracked.
Took no more than 5minutes.
The first one took almost 45 minutes due to the ineptitude of the woman serving ME.
I don't mind paying the cost etc and the filling in forms because in the UK they want to KNOW recipients details, senders details, signature, weight which they fill in and I get to say how much it cost (the kit THAT is) and fill in with "plastic kit" and Always put lower amount to avoid duty taxes for the recipient.. I hope anyway.
I will and have sent parcels to many destinations as far as Tasmania, New Zealand, South Africa, Red Deer,Toronto , Ontario and UK and Europe too!
I think I only delivered one kit by hand to one member here in the UK..
MY 1penny worth of thoughts.
Befuddling POSTAL system indeed exists!!!
etendard reacted to BiggTim in PLEASE put CONUS only, in the title, if you are CONUS only and save th
I've sold quite a few times on eBay, and ship anywhere. I found it quite easy, especially when you can accept PayPal. The shipping is no trouble at all.
etendard reacted to Hubert Boillot in PLEASE put CONUS only, in the title, if you are CONUS only and save th
I don't know what it's like in other countries, but the French Postal system had improved in giant leaps in recent years. To the point where you could do all the work at home, on your computer :fill in the adress label, declare the value, etc ..., pay on-line, print all the papers, including the customs declaration when they are needed, pack everything, et voilÃ ! You just have to drop the parcel in the local Post Office (where queues are now nowhere near what they used to be), and when shipping in Europe, you can even leave the parccel in your letter box for the Postman or Postlady to pick it up for you ...
On the other hand, the costs have gone up tremendously as well, but that is not French-specific ...
And now I have yet to try the Portuguese Post
etendard reacted to Troy Molitor in PLEASE put CONUS only, in the title, if you are CONUS only and save th
I couldn't agree more to what everyone has mentioned above. Being an Expat living in Singapore, I've purchased items from several people here on LSP. I say boldly thank you for looking past your country of origin! The shipping charge is sometimes irrelevant to some people as long as they can find what their actually looking for.
On the flip side, I sold off the majority of my 1:48 collection 5-6 years ago to people all over the planet. I was stiffed once byway of sending the kit before actually receiving the go-ahead from the person in Europe for the shipping charges He never replied yet received the kits and I got stiffed. Lesson learned? Perhaps. The fact that someone would actually enjoy building something he never paid for I would assume, eat away at their own conscience. So be it. Small issue and not to look back in anger.
The community on LSP has been awesome to deal with over the years. Now let me warn you about those degenerates on the 1:72-1:48 scale types on that â€œotherâ€site! Just kidding!
Be calm, carry on, finish your model!
etendard reacted to ade rowlands in PLEASE put CONUS only, in the title, if you are CONUS only and save th
To be fair when I try to sell off kits I no longer want to the lucky membership here I usually state in the thread title I'm UK based but in the thread I state I'll ship anywhere at cost. So far I've shipped to the UK for the most part, once to Singapore, twice to the USA and several times to the European mainland. I use a service whereby I input the details of the size and weight of the box into the website and that then generates a list of quotes of available services, I then contact the interested party with the options of shipping prices to their destination. I must add I always go for the insured option which costs about Â£2-3 more than standard, unless the kit in question doesn't go over their standard free insurance levels anyway. I have had to fill in an online customs declaration which takes mere minutes and a copy is printed and placed in the box, an electronic copy is sent to the shipper of choice on completion of the order for them to do what they need to do with it. I can then drop the parcel off at a drop location for the shipper of choice, or if I've struck lucky someone has bought and paid for a kit on one of my days off from work and I can arrange pick up from my own house negating having to go out into the cold and take it myself to the drop location. Why limit myself to just UK sales when I can open up to sales across the globe to those who may want the kit I have to sell by taking 2 minutes to fill in an extra form, I've already fired up the ink slurping printer to print out the shipping label anyway. But again to be fair I might think different if I had to go stand in a post office and do it instead of sat on my rear in the comfort of my own home.
etendard reacted to Gazzas in PLEASE put CONUS only, in the title, if you are CONUS only and save th
Being in Australia, I find this 'CONUS or Europe only' philosophy irksome. I know US postage rates are highway robbery. But there actually might be a kit from the US that I can't find anywhere else.
etendard reacted to Juggernut in PLEASE put CONUS only, in the title, if you are CONUS only and save th
The "trouble" is all in their minds and what they're willing to do (and not do) to close the sale. Most of these peeps just don't want to be bothered with the details as they get in the way.... My motto is that if you're willing to pay the cost of shipping the kit, I'll take the time to fill out the proper paperwork so that it gets to you. Any additional costs imposed by the country being shipped to are customarily the burden of the buyer. I haven't sold anything on Ebay for a little while now but it used to be cake walk to fill out the proper forms for shipping from the USA to destinations outside the USA. I don't think that's changed one bit. The only thing we, in the USA (and possibly abroad as well), have to watch out for is package size limits. I ran into that a few years back shipping a couple kits to the Czech Republic. The boxes were too large to be accepted by the Czech postal system so I had to remove the kits from their boxes, fold them as neatly as possible and pack the multiple sprues, decals and instructions (If I recall correctly, I think I even had to cut some of the sprues down - 1/48 B-29) in the largest possible box that the Czech postal system would accept (which wasn't that large). It took me two weeks to get this all sorted out BEFORE I shipped the kits. I profusely apologized to the buyer and if memory serves I refunded part of the shipping costs due to my inexperience. That was just good business I thought.
If I ever list anything for sale here, you can bank on that I'll ship anywhere in the world that I can. If you're willing to absorb the costs involved (including risk of loss if insurance is not purchased) in shipping the kit, I'll be glad to fill out the paperwork and send it on its way to you.
etendard reacted to Jack in PLEASE put CONUS only, in the title, if you are CONUS only and save th
Well, that's like the "procedure" over here, so thinking about it, i don't understand some of the "restrictions" mentioned by US modellers when having to "go thru all the trouble" when sending things across the pond and consequently decide to the "conus" option......
etendard reacted to Jack in PLEASE put CONUS only, in the title, if you are CONUS only and save th
Good point, because each time "conus only" or "europe only" is actually a concern to eachother across the big pond to be aware of some ludicrous postal charges to and fro that could make a deal not that favourable, but isn't that the buyer's privilege to have his or her own decission to accept any of these high P+P costs or not?
It's like paying for an ebay product, for which you, yourself are the ultimate limit in spending your money, but like postal charges they tend to be the limiting factor in "doing business".
I think indicating the precise costs on having these kits going across the big pond could be helpfull, but then again it's all up to the recipient to accept or not.
just my 2 p's
etendard reacted to DrDave in PLEASE put CONUS only, in the title, if you are CONUS only and save th
If you are selling CONUS only, please put it in the title. It's saves the rest of us looking.
etendard reacted to onosendai in Videoaviation - 1/32 USAF modern figure "Marshalling"
Usaf modern figure bundled with flight line extinguishers and chocks, 12,00 eu. Also only the figure is available at 6,00 eu.
etendard reacted to Eagle Driver in TANMODELâ„¢ 1/32 Su-33 #3333
Where I was born, old people have a saying: You cannot bring two watermelons under one armpit.
Too many promises, too few realized projects.
AMK promised Super Etendard too.
I waited for Kinetic Doher more than 2 years, and then gave them the finger.
Meng promised Mount Elbrus.
If you know the list of 32nd scale projects that TAN promised you will know what I am talking about.
That couldn't happen in the next 10 years. Not if 5-10 million dollars are not poured into that company. And without many questions asked from the investor.
Even if the Flanker goes out, the F-4s, F-5s and F-111s won't happen soon. If ever.
etendard reacted to G-Man in Mr. Mark Softer
Just a heads up for those that don't know, as I didn't until now. Mr. Mark Softer will eat through Mr. Color paints. I was applying the decals on my 109 and had it tilted sideways. There was excess Softer that I didn't see, which rolled to the other side of the plane. Last night I noticed the paint was burned through, all the way to primer. The decals will not cover it, so I will have to touch it up with the airbrush very carefully. It's par for the course with this bird, as I've had to do several things two or three times.