etendard

:thumbsup:wow !!!!!!!!!!!

I can't promise the force, at my age I can only offer the farce, but I will put my hands together and mutter my new mantra - "dear spaghetti monster, please make it an F.8, in 1/24 . I've paid my dues, I finished the Classic Airframes 1/48 Meteor F.8  Early and contributed more than my fair share to the swear jar during it's (so called ) construction.  I'll accept the kit in 1/32 and pay penance with 300 "Hail Meatballs" and 1000 "our Pastas, who's art be in styrene, shallow be thy panel lines. Thy box art is fun, thy decals shall stun, at home or in a build thread..."

It is truly heartbreaking what is happening to your country Andriy, I've had the BBC news channel on almost constantly since the invasion started, keep expecting an announcement to say it's all a very, very, bad dream, but tragically it isn't, it is without doubt the worst thing I've witnessed in my life.
 
I have no doubt also that Ukraine will come back stronger economically and culturally.
 
Take care, every decent human being on the planet is behind you,
 
Andy

Greetings friends and colleagues, due to russia's invasion of Ukraine, our creativity and production has been temporarily suspended. Also, for unclear reasons, my account Andriy Lemkitscom has been blocked. This is my new account https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100078835746984 and for now I will try to maintain the page through it. https://www.facebook.com/LemKits-484686405198939 https://www.facebook.com/LemKits Many thanks to everyone who offered me support, from the bottom of my heart. Truth is on our side and with Faith in God and our Army we will fight. Sincerely, Andriy Zimenko.

WHEN ??????  :frantic: :frantic:

It's good for some things, but not others.
For seams, I prefer it over anything because you can remove the excess with a wet cotton bud, brush or whatever without disturbing the surrounding area. It is not good for larger areas because it does not form a molecular bond to styrene like Tamiya white and therefore it doesn't feather well when sanded. It's perfect for filling rivet divots because you don't have to sand it. It's too thick straight from the tube so I dilute some with water and keep it in an old paint jar. It tends to dry up in the tube, so I squeeze the tube in a way where it sucks the putty back into the tube and put a few drops of water in the void to keep it soft.  If it does dry up in the tube, cut the tube open, dump the contents in a jar, add water and mix to the desired consistency. It's not stringy like Tamiya white putty which I find very annoying. Like most things, it has it's good points and bad.
 
 

Wonderful to see you back Dale!
 
Wishing you all the best medically - and hoping to see some snaps of your projects... 
 
Iain

Hi guys.
I received a PM asking of me. Here is my situation.
 
Where have I been?
 
Over the past 12 months I have been trying to save my right foot from amputation. Last week it seemed I may lose my leg at the knee. Happily I got through it to this week.
The fight continues but I remain confident.
 
I am dealing with 2 hospitals. I am under the care of the High risk foot clinic at 1 of them and general care at the other.
 
What began as an infection in a toe has spread further. The reason is numbness in my right foot. I didn't know I had a wound.
 
Mentally I am fine. Losing a foot would offer me the perfect opportunity to stay at home building models 24/7 365 days per year. No complaints there.
 
My poor old brain is clearing up okay. I don't expect much due to it not being that great since birth anyway. 
 
As with all of us Covid is an issue. I am concerned about my friends here, I hope you are all well.
 
One build I had in a group build here was affected by my movements and came to an end.
 
I currently have 2 builds on the go, a MiG 29 and a 1/32 Me 109 G-6.
 
Stay safe everyone. 
 
Dale

Thank you for all the positive responses guys, things are getting and been worked on, on various subjects and areas. I will share new information as I think it is at a stage to show positive progress.

Whether or not you know is inconsequential, as obsiously you are under some sort of clause not to divulge if you do know and that's fine.
 
The members here, including myself are just having a bit of fun, and there is no need to be that way about it.
If you know and cant say that's fine, but if thats the case let's leave RIGHT there.

WOW !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Its a shame that the kit wasn't well supported by the modelling community. Certainly the price and quality were excellent. Subject a little esoteric, so maybe that was it. In the two comps that I have entered my kit in, it has taken out first place in its category in both and the feedback that I got was very good for such an obscure aircraft. 
 
Please keep up the good work releasing kits like this mate, not all of us like to build every Mk. No. of BF 109 or 190 ever made.
 
Cheers,
 
Eric.

Pitty, wished You would  produce this conversion set   

TOP !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!     

TOP !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!     

Pitty, wished You would  produce this conversion set   

SUPER !!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks mate. Pretty well every model of mine can owe some of its success to your excellent instruments.
 
Some more work.
 
The kit vac form windshield is well done but is very thin and very flexible. It doesn’t give a true feel of the solidly framed windshield with the thick bulletproof front panel.
 
Dry fitted at this stage with lots of work to do.
 

 
I chain drilled and cut out the front panel, staying well away from the edges.
 

 
Using a combination of diamond files, I tidied up the hole.
 

 
I cut out a section of .8mm PETG clear sheet and used the same files to size it so that it fit against the inside of the front panel frames. I left the bottom edge longer for ease of handling.
 

 
I then glued it in place using superglue. The PETG sheet is super clear, so it looks as if there is nothing there in this pic. 
 

 
The end result. Still need to do some of the side framing in the rest of the windshield, but at least now the thick bulletproof panel is quite visible.
 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 

Cheers gents.
 
Forgot to add the picture of the cannon barrel fitted into the brass tube in the leading edge. Makes it much easier to leave these off until the last minute knowing that they are going to fit really well.
 

 
I don’t really have a shelf of doom, as long as nobody mentions my Hph Concorde. Some of my projects come perilously close to going there though, probably due to the non shake and bake nature of the projects I choose and the resulting ease of making an error. Similar to someone who reads a book and has to go back and re-read a whole chapter in order to understand a particularly difficult part of a novel, I find myself having to go and revisit old work, to start again to make things better. I had started fitting the flaps to the wings and came across a bit of a problem with how the fuselage and wings had been joined. When I originally fitted the wings to the fuselage, I needed to push them together with a bit of force. As a result of this, the inner section of the wing had a slightly concave shape when it needed to be flat. This was causing some issue with how the flaps were able to be fitted. I ended up breaking the model up to fix the problem and refit the wings with minimal pressure.
 

 
I refitted the wings and felt much better about it although this caused a fair bit more work as some of the mating areas had been damaged during this extreme measure. This then led to another problem although to be honest this had been bugging me from the start and the following fix is well worth the effort for those building this model. The nicely done vac formed canopy is unfortunately very thin and does not lend well to handling and during the reassembling of the model, I put some pressure on it breaking it away from part of the fuselage. This was the second time it had happened and I didn’t want it to happen again, possibly at a far later stage of completion. The clear plastic does not adhere well to the super glue that I am using and joining it to resin parts does not give a good bond. The small elliptical fairings behind the pilot were also giving me some trouble so it was time for a comprehensive fix of their area.
 
First up, I made up some supports from plastic card that will stop the part from flexing and breaking away from the fuselage. 
 

 
I then traced the shape of the fairing onto some plastic card. A small flex of the vac formed part easily broke them away.
 

 
I cut the part out of the plastic card, angling my blade so that it was beveled on the inside of the curve. I re attached the fairing and scraped away the paint around it where the plastic card part was going to fit.
 

 
The re done part. The plastic parts that I added now lock the fairings down due to the previously mentioned bevel and also provide greater overall strength. It looks a little agricultural,  but it won’t be seen.
 
 

 
 Meanwhile, behind me my young fellow is working away at his own workbench well past his bed time. Being brought up on a diet of model glue and Swedish death metal, what can go wrong?
 

 
 
 
 

Now that's the way to get em started. That could have been me at that age.
My father did the same thing for me at that age, and it kicked off a life long live of aviation and modeling.
Well done dad.

I got so close to getting one of those , CE died around the same time as my payment was clearing... I still  don't know if I'd have actually have built the model even if I had received it, decisions, Decisions...
 
Take care of that set ,
 
I have a terrible feeling that its the closest any of us are going to get to a 32nd Brit Phantom...

my first kit that i build with my dad 32 years ago

 
the last kit that i have finnishd almost a year ago

 
Mark

“Total accuracy” has never bothered me. Yes, like others, I like to make a model look as close as possible to the real thing, but am I going to lose sleep over a misplaced panel line? No. A nose that’s slightly misshapen? No. 
 
Take the HK Fort or recent HB Lib. There are quite visible inaccuracies. Will it stop me building them and having a blast whilst doing so? No. 
 
Interestingly (and wandering a little from the main topic I know) you get some modellers who slave to build the most accurate model they can shape-wise, but will then create some cartoon-like charature of the real thing by highlighting every rib, panel and rivet with overly faded paint, washes and chipping, baring no resemblance of the real thing whatsoever. Accurate? No.