Fred Jack

You young guys are so spoiled. Back in the day, there was no Internet. All models only approximated scale. If you wanted to research a German plane, the reference books were written in German, Japanese planes in Japanese. The USA and the Allies couldn't get Russian or Chinese references. All reference books were in a library and could not be checked out. To get to the library we had to walk 10 miles uphill both ways barefoot in the snow with 80 mph winds in a full blizzard with freezing rain at 40 degrees below zero because it was too cold to hitch the horses.

I'm not a micrometer user when it comes to different companies. I love my old Revell kit. I've had many issues in Trumpeter that didn't take a ruler to see, forcing me to do more than modeling to correct. It's like they make their planes 1/32, but the entire cockpits 1/35 or 1/48, forcing me to buy entire after market cockpits etc... I'd go with Revell or 21C. I really never noticed my Stuka was 1/35th? as long as it was larger than my 109s.

I'm very curious because of comments like Bit O Lace can't be used because the HK kit doesn't have the right modifications for that particular 17. How many people on this forum would even know the difference? I know I sure wouldn't.

Why not the "Belle", after all it is the most famous B-17, E, F, or G. No one can really say it's been overdone with only one 1/72nd scale, and one 1/48th scale. True in both scales, it was the only 17F modeled, but there has never been one done in 32nd. The problem I have is that my daughters don't appreciate having their kids seeing big nude women decals on my planes.

Special Hobby might not be the greatest or even the goodest but if that's all we can get, that's all we can get.

I don't believe you have to do a 'what if' model of what you want. There were a lot of 109Es in Africa, I mean a lot,, but not all that many photos. When the Allies started doing ground attacks, it would make sense that the yellow noses were hit or repainted, as well as the blue sides. I have no idea why the Germans had to keep the Theater of operation color bands. If a plane with the yellow Russian Front flew to a White Band Tropical Unit, was the pilot told to go back to the Yellow Band Units? Go figure. But to cut to the chase, paint your Emil without the blue sides, and put on the green blotches, white band, a JG27 emblem on the nose, chevrons, a dash, or any combination of command symbols, or a number, there is a better than normal chance that that plane actually existed. Who knows, you may display it at a German Model Show, and someone might see it and exclaim that that was his dad's plane and want to pay good money to buy it from you. So do it and show us the results. Maybe Eagle Cal or someone will make decals that matches you plane, and sell it so we can make your model. Just don't forget to mount an umbrella over the open canopy as shown in Squadron Signal's Messerschmitt ME-109 Part 1.

The one detail I have never seen on any P-51 kit. That is the bird nests that magically appear in that hard to get to scoop right behind. The spinner. I've seen many a frustrated person having to do a one arm chin up, in order to use the other hand to feel for and clear out the nests while being attacked by angry birds, even if there aren't any eggs. While doing this hoping for no wasp nest which sometimes also occurrs.

It's just my luck that they may come out with 50 HE 111s or 50 JU 88 versions before they come out with even one Flying Pencil.

Probably Revel since the've already released a couple non-military Pipers and a Dornier. I'm hoping for a V-tail Beechcraft Bonanza, or Sky King's Cessna 310, but I'll take what I can get.

I forgot. The Gray Matter Figures control stick was for my 1/24th Spit. I like Spits, ya think?

Gray Matter Figures also make fine parts including a fully wired control column. Be very very careful building and mounting the engine and engine mounts, or you will find it almost impossible to get the metal panels to fit right. Also get the "Tamiya, How to build the Mark Vlll and Mark lV Spitfire" book. I got mine through Roll Models. It is definitely worth every dollar, pound, euro, yen, etc....

Most of the suggestions above in 1/32 are thicker than a 1/32nd pilot's finger, which is doggone big. I use fine thread, using different colors. This makes for great multi wire cables. I tack the cables to the frames using a very very small amount of Contact Cement with a needle point. Then when done, wick super glue onto the thread to stiffen it. Keep the "wires" tight, so engine vibration doesn't wiggle the wires back and forth until they brake. Using Barracuda's parts makes wiring easy and wow, do they look great. They also sell Rolls Royce marked engine heads.

That's petty ambitious after a 10 year break. I use Barracuda's Spitfire cockpit sides and use threads of different colors and glue out side of the plane. I tack them to the frame with a needle full of Contact Cement. Using a tooth pick, I wick Super Glue onto the thread to solidify it. Thread is perfect for cable assys, especially using different colors. Remember to wire your plane as though it were real and subject to wire weakening vibration.

I don't know about Model Airways, but the 1/8th Hasegawas were plagued by warpage. I'm building their 1/16th Wright Flyer so I am varnishing the wood.

The 1/16th guys are Model Airways. Model Expo still sells them.

Too bad they didn't include cowling, or in the case of the albatross, a spinner.

I was also a known American Indian artist who had a great love for the cleaning ease of acrylics. Add a little Gesso to the acrylic paint and it acts like oil with oil texture. This would help with the clogging of airbrushed. It works on my badger. But I do filter my paints through a piece of nylon hosiery anyway.

Who knows, maybe Rutman will see this post and make one. Meanwhile I will do a Trop colored 110, since a trop filter can always be added later without surgery.

This entire topic may be a mute issue considering China has allied itself with North Korea and is threatening war.

Another point I should add is the fact that the average hourly wage of a worker in a Chinese Manufacturing Company is one tenth that of the average American, European, or Japanese. That $150+ is almost pure profit for HK. If they aren't so much better, why is a twin engine bomber so much more money than a Revell?

Modelers have spoken. Years ago Monogram discontinued the Phantom Mustang because modelers preferred the cheaper Mustang kit without all the bells and whistles. Tamiya got rid of their A6M5 with the sound and operating features, because it cost too much. I don't believe ZM is going to fair well. They really don't need after market anything, but their kits just have more than the average modeler wants and are too pricy. People are grabbing Revell's Heinkle Owl over ZM. As far as HK's much better quality that doesn't need after market. This simply isn't true. HK is simply not $100+ better quality than Revell to me. I feel the only reason I think HK is taking off is the releases of American bombers. I would not imagine that subject matter is as popular in Europe. We will not know for sure until the first non-American bomber is released. Remember, HK only came out with the first B-25 a few months ago. I will be having to decide on the Lancaster if it comes out, and the same for a HP Hallifax, but again that will be no one's choice but mine

Does anyone know if any of the resin guys or gals make a trop filter for the 110 in 1/32?

Both Colorado and XtraDecal make what you want. You can google Roll Models to view them both.

We the modelers decide what the price we will pay for a kit. Revell has been selling twin engine bombers at a fraction of the price of a HK kit. Is a hundred or so bucks make a model that much better? Not to me. If no one likes their prices and doesn't buy the kits, they will either lower their prices or fold. I'm sure Revell makes even more money per plane than HK, because modelers are not as intimidated by the prices. If people aren't as satisfied over the details, there will always be after market companies to come to the rescue. As far as the $250 price on an old Aurora kit, it was only a couple dollars in it's day. There are a lot better ways to invest money than modeling. Prices on eBay show old models don't sell that high. A good example would be the old Revell Raiden. It was expensive to by, but since it's recent release, the price on the old one has dropped considerably. This shows that generally speaking more people are more interested in the plane and not the vintage or box number.

Depending how long a 29 is compared to my legs, I might have to wear high spiked heels and of course a skirt.