Jump to content

BiggTim

LSP_Members
  • Content Count

    3,159
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    5

Reputation Activity

  1. Like
    BiggTim reacted to stikpusher in 82nd Abn paratrooper-Operation "Just Cause"   
    Maybe my memory is playing tricks (I haven't jumped in almost 10 years), but shouldn't the H-harness have a single pull release tab?
     
    You can see it here on the 2nd guy from the left below and between his hands

     
    Left Door Jumpmaster!
     
    I really like the bareheaded figure... he captures the look just right
  2. Like
    BiggTim reacted to FlorinM in P-51 B Big Mac Junior   
    The console on the left side of the cockpit was located at 6.5 millimeters from the edge of the cockpit, when it should have sat deeper, at 8 millimeters. First it should have rested against the floor (if it did not sit on the floor there would be no no need for cutouts in the said floor) and secondly it should have matched the rivet pattern on the outside, also not the case. Thirdly the scale accurate throttle quadrant could not sit in its position without having to be trimmed at the bottom.
    The console was removed and will be relocated to its more accurate position.
     

  3. Like
    BiggTim reacted to LSP_Kevin in Tamiya P-51D, Sinai, 1956, with Reposted Images   
    I use Gunze's Mr. Surface Dignity. It flakes off in the presence of genius though.
     
    Kev
  4. Like
    BiggTim got a reaction from dodgem37 in Tamiya P-51D, Sinai, 1956, with Reposted Images   
    I'm already out of dignity....can you order that from Hobbylink?
  5. Like
    BiggTim reacted to dodgem37 in Tamiya P-51D, Sinai, 1956, with Reposted Images   
    Thank you, Jamme.
     
    Thank you, Marcus.
     
    Thank you, Brother Bear.
     
    Thank you, Loic.
     
    There are indeed a number of powerful builds going on now.  It's hard for me to keep track of them all even when 'Following' them.  Thank you, Richard.  Your builds look pretty danged good!  I especially like that soldered aluminium piping at the Oil Reservoir on your Mustang.
     
    Thank you, Craig.  Yes, I squeezed them really, really hard in a pair of pliers.  These are the smallest Silver -Nickel rods by Albion Alloy.  I believe they are .003 diameter.  They are harder than aluminum (the softest) or brass (medium hardness).
     
    Good grief is right, Harv.  I'm even saying that to myself, Charlie Brown!
     
    Thank you, Mal.  But I don't know for which one, madman or genius!
     
    Right ON!, Jerry!
     
    Thank you, Wolf.  Would it be wrong of me to say I'm not going to paint it?  Just kidding.  I do one thing at a time.  When I finish scratch-building I'll hopefully solve the painting problems.  I will lose track of what I need to do in this phase if I start to think out of it.
     
    Aside from tidying things up I'm finished with the engine.  I don't know if it's complete.  I just know I'm finished with it.  It will be good to move over to the Oil Reservoir area and Firewall.
     
    Got 'em and got 'em in.  That lifting ring just barely.  1.5mm inside diameter .015 solder.  Whoo Boy!  Thank you, Wolf.
     
    'I suddenly realized that this place needs a better security'
    Hide you wallet, here comes Wolf!
     
    Thank you, 322SqnNL.  Actually, this phase hasn't been nerve-wracking at all.  Except for the Distribution Lines everything has gone smoothly.  It certainly hasn't felt like 'work'.  I can't imagine working in 1/72nd scale.  It's so small.  I sure would like for you to post your Spit.
     
    Thank you for stopping by and commenting, Geoff.  Means a lot.
     
    Finishing the linkage rebuild.

    Filtered Air Door and Ram Air Gate link.  Forgot the Hot Air Door Control.  Will get on that.
     

    Other side of the Filtered Air Door and Ram Air Gate link.
     

    Upper: Propeller Governor Control System. 
    Lower: Top lower is to Filtered Air Door; Lower lower is to Ram Air Gate link.
     

    Propeller Governor Control System sunny side.  Pencil notations.  The right link is supposed to be toward the bottom and the left toward the top.  I made it this condition so I would not have to find the angle for the left side to fit over/around/thru/whatever! the Intercooler pump.
     

    .015 diameter solder lifting ring with returns squished flat on base with hex nuts on flats.
     

    Solenoid with electrical to Switch Box on Firewall.  Supercharger Intercooler coolant line to lower firewall.  Probably could be a bolt lower, but I'm going with this.
     
    Break Time!  But not for long, I hope.
    Thank you for following along.
    Sincerely,
    Mark
  6. Like
    BiggTim reacted to chuck540z3 in 1/32 P-38L "Kicked Up A Notch". Jan 15/16: FINISHED!   
    At the end of the build, I will also be adding the Eduard door which has been painted in aluminum to match Marge.





    This pic shows the bottom of the gear bay.  Even after lots of trimming and dry fitting, there is still a bow to the gear bay to fuselage sides and the ends of the gear bay have fairly large gaps.  The sides were glued from behind with lots of CA glue oozed down the sides, while the ends were filled with more CA glue then painted interior green.  Here you can see the gear door struts are very much in the way, so I highly recommend that you glue them in much later when you attach the gear doors.





    As shown earlier, the radiator cowling assemblies sit very high within their recesses on the booms, so they should be sanded from below in order to get a flush fit.





    The rivet and panel line detail at the rear of the booms is weak, so I deepened everything.  It looks very harsh in these pics with the dark wash, but it will be toned down with the BMF finish later.  The rear rudders do not fit very well, so I recommend you dry fit them and sand them before assembly so that they will move freely.






    As shown earlier, the radiator cowlings were painted and detailed on the inside before cementing them onto the booms.






    Not all seam lines need to be removed, however.  The one at the back is real, while the one between the rad cowlings should be eliminated.  Some of the panel lines match fairly well at the seam while some are offset, so you need to fill them in and re-scribe at least half of them.







    The top is identical.  Make sure you fill that deep groove in the back because you can see it when the rudders are offset slightly.






    The seam line at the top on the front should stay, where it forms the join between the engine cowling panels.  All Dzus fasteners were enlarged and deepened with a Mega Tool punch.  Here you can also see where I slopped on thick CA glue to the gear wells to make them strong from behind.





    And finally a pic of the front.  This pic also shows how smooth and shiny the plastic is due to sanding.  This will make a terrific base for Alclad without any roughness coming from behind.






    With the fuselage booms done and out of the way, I can now turn my attention to the nose gear well and cockpit.  Just looking at the Cutting Edge resin cockpit I'm going to use, I have a LOT of work ahead of me!  

    Thanks for checking in,

    Chuck
  7. Like
    BiggTim reacted to chuck540z3 in 1/32 P-38L "Kicked Up A Notch". Jan 15/16: FINISHED!   
    Feb 17/15


    As indicated earlier, I want to build a so-called restored P-38L Lightning, but for the subjects I have decals for (at 20 aircraft), it will wind up to be a “whatifâ€.  I'm not a real big whatif fan and one restored P-38 that really catches my eye is “Margeâ€, which is a P-38J, 44-53236, that has been beautifully restored to replicate Richard Bong's own aircraft in which, along with other P-38's he flew, he shot down at least 40 Japanese aircraft.  This aircraft is housed at the EAA Museum in Oshkosh, WI and you can see some great pics of it here:

    http://www.kazoku.org/xp-38n/walkaround/oshkosh_eaa/index.htm


    What I really like about this P-38 is the contrasting polished aluminum and painted aluminum along with bright red accents.  Decals, however, were a problem because the only ones I could find on the ‘net were out of production.  Well it turns out they are still available as “PYN- up†decals from The Fine Art of Decals owned by Dave Klaus of “Cutting Edge†fame.  Who knew!



    http://www.fineartofdecals.com/goodies/bodos-p-38j-marge-model/



    So I bought the decals and I now have a subject that really exists!  I will try to match this aircraft as much as possible, but I'm not going to worry about tiny details like “J†vs. “L†differences since the kit is an L.



    Now a real update.  I have spent a LOT of time tweaking and assembling the fuselage booms, re-punching every rivet hole and re-scribing every panel line.  I've also added more rivets and panel lines, so I'll let the following pics tell the story rather than point out every one.   In these pics you'll notice that I have given everything a wash of Tamiya panel line accent color in black.  I find that this not only shows the panel lines and rivets better, but it also picks up a lot of build flaws that you won't likely see until the first coat of paint, like sanding scratches, missed panel lines and glued seams that still show a gap.  At this stage, it's a lot easier to fix, so I now use a wash on every part before I commit to painting.


    I mentioned above that the side radiator housings would fit just fine after I glued them down.  Wrong.  For some reason they would not sit down at the rear no matter how much I pushed them into the recesses, until I finally figured out the culprit.  It turns out the brass radiator screens were getting in the way, even though I was very careful to glue them in as centered as possible.  The fix, thankfully, was pretty simple.  Using a Dremel tool and grinding bit, I filed down the areas of the screening that were high,  preventing the housing from fitting flush to the sides of the booms.  While I was at it, I added struts to open and close the doors.  The Eduard instructions would have you glue them to the rear of the Eduard face plate, but that is way too far forward and reference pics show that the strut should be attached almost at the radiator screening.  This is easy to do while the housing is off, but very hard when cemented into place, so I glued some pins in place as shown below.








    As shown earlier the turbo/supercharger inlets are fairly crude with huge rivets around the front that are way too big and deep.





    I removed the rivet depressions and initially painted them in Alclad chrome, but now that I'm building Marge, they should be in painted aluminum.  Here they are repainted along with the inlets under the spinner, which should both be painted off the model so that you can get smooth coverage without airbrush turbulence.





    The bullet shaped inlets have some subtle rivet detail along the central seam and around the front collar, so I used some very small Archer raised rivets to replicate same, even though they aren't really raised.  From a few inches away, however, they look the part, along with some brass tubing I used for the side vents.





    As indicated earlier the engines sit way too low in the nacelles, so I used pins to make them sit higher.  Here I have glued in the engines a bit too high on purpose.





    This is because the entire spinner is a bit too big, which also makes it too wide.  Note the rivet detail is also wobbly and way too deep.





    By sanding the spinners down, they are flush with the top and sides, while the crude rivet detail is removed and replaced with finer rivets using a needle in a pin vice.  This spinner still needs a bit more sanding, but you get the idea.....





    I made the turbo inlets to fit very snugly into the sides so that glue is not required.  That way they can be placed on the model at the very end of the build without getting in the way of painting the booms.






    Another part that should be left off the model is the side mirrors which I sanded down to fit the opening and covered with bare metal foil.  I don't think I'll stay with the foil because it's a bit rough and I will likely paint them later in chrome.  Note the front grill inlet has been cemented into place then the edges sanded down to fit flush.  This part is a bit wide and there are noticeable overhangs if you don't.






    The central seams were filled with CA glue and sanded down.  You can still see them here because the glue is clear, but the black wash tells me that other than the very front on the left, all is well.  A little more CA glue will fix that.  This pic also shows the Eduard PE I used to replace the side vents which were cut out and for the screening on the bottom vent.



  8. Like
    BiggTim reacted to chuck540z3 in 1/32 P-38L "Kicked Up A Notch". Jan 15/16: FINISHED!   
    Hi Tim,
     
    Fortunately I have quite a bit of experience with Alclad and I've made every mistake possible, so this build should be a relative breeze.  Here's a couple gratuitous pics of Alclad I've shown before on other builds.  Hopefully this P-38 will look just as good, but a lot shinier!
     

     

  9. Like
    BiggTim reacted to tomaszhajzler in 1/32 Boeing F4b4 - almost naked   
    Hi!
     
     
    Painting will be long process because of masking, many small pieces of tape etc.
    But now,
    My Boeing can breath. I had got exhaustes from Vector and I thought simple work. When I compare them with photos I changed my mind. I could use only outlet ends. So many problems, fitting, glueing etc. I use wood scorcher to form plastic tubes.

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     
    I can also take a breath, small breath.
    Nice watching
    Regards
    Tomasz
  10. Like
    BiggTim got a reaction from mywifehatesmodels in Finally photo'd - Hasegawa FW190A8/R8   
    So I finally took some photos of the Hasegawa FW190A8/R2 I finished just before Christmas 2014. I've been putting it off until I could learn a little more about how to take a decent photo with our new camera. Got more to learn, but these aren't too bad, so here you go.
     
    The paint scheme is of Black 8, flown by Willi Maximovitz. Im sure you all probably know more about it than I do!! I started this kit almost 10 years ago, and shelved it while I was away from the hobby, so when I got back, I decided to finish it off. Not the best paint job I've ever done, but I'm pretty happy with it. 
     
    Tim
     

     

     

     

     

     
    PS: Kudos to those of you who noticed the piece of blue tape holding the canopy on in the upside down shot!!
  11. Like
    BiggTim got a reaction from Whitey in Finally photo'd - Hasegawa FW190A8/R8   
    So I finally took some photos of the Hasegawa FW190A8/R2 I finished just before Christmas 2014. I've been putting it off until I could learn a little more about how to take a decent photo with our new camera. Got more to learn, but these aren't too bad, so here you go.
     
    The paint scheme is of Black 8, flown by Willi Maximovitz. Im sure you all probably know more about it than I do!! I started this kit almost 10 years ago, and shelved it while I was away from the hobby, so when I got back, I decided to finish it off. Not the best paint job I've ever done, but I'm pretty happy with it. 
     
    Tim
     

     

     

     

     

     
    PS: Kudos to those of you who noticed the piece of blue tape holding the canopy on in the upside down shot!!
  12. Like
    BiggTim got a reaction from Bill Cross in Finally photo'd - Hasegawa FW190A8/R8   
    So I finally took some photos of the Hasegawa FW190A8/R2 I finished just before Christmas 2014. I've been putting it off until I could learn a little more about how to take a decent photo with our new camera. Got more to learn, but these aren't too bad, so here you go.
     
    The paint scheme is of Black 8, flown by Willi Maximovitz. Im sure you all probably know more about it than I do!! I started this kit almost 10 years ago, and shelved it while I was away from the hobby, so when I got back, I decided to finish it off. Not the best paint job I've ever done, but I'm pretty happy with it. 
     
    Tim
     

     

     

     

     

     
    PS: Kudos to those of you who noticed the piece of blue tape holding the canopy on in the upside down shot!!
  13. Like
    BiggTim got a reaction from MARU5137 in Finally photo'd - Hasegawa FW190A8/R8   
    So I finally took some photos of the Hasegawa FW190A8/R2 I finished just before Christmas 2014. I've been putting it off until I could learn a little more about how to take a decent photo with our new camera. Got more to learn, but these aren't too bad, so here you go.
     
    The paint scheme is of Black 8, flown by Willi Maximovitz. Im sure you all probably know more about it than I do!! I started this kit almost 10 years ago, and shelved it while I was away from the hobby, so when I got back, I decided to finish it off. Not the best paint job I've ever done, but I'm pretty happy with it. 
     
    Tim
     

     

     

     

     

     
    PS: Kudos to those of you who noticed the piece of blue tape holding the canopy on in the upside down shot!!
  14. Like
    BiggTim got a reaction from Chris Wimmer in The old Mosquito Restoration Project   
    Anything new on this Chris?
  15. Like
    BiggTim reacted to chuck540z3 in 1/32 P-38L "Kicked Up A Notch". Jan 15/16: FINISHED!   
    Thanks Rod.  Which screen venting are you referring to?  The trap door under the engines?  If so, the Eduard PE kit has some nice screens I'm installing and a thin door with interior detail to it.  I have a close-up pic of this door and the PE looks pretty close.
     
     
     
    No gun bay on this bird Tim, just nice brass guns sticking out the front.  The main reason I'm doing this model is to get the beautiful lines of the Lightning without a lot of open doors getting in the way and breaking them up.  I did a reasonable job of some detail in the landing gear wheel wells because you can see them (with a mirror) and I will pay extra attention to the cockpit (Cutting Edge resin) since you can see almost everything inside, so that should be enough.  I super detailed the gun bays on my P-51D build so I feel like I've done that already, even though it's totally different.
     
    Update:
     
    I have closed up both booms and all that attaches to them, so now I'm filling and cleaning everything up so they will look pretty when sprayed with Alclad.  I will post a "do this, don't do that" summary here when I'm done for your review and reference.  In hindsight, I wish I had done a few things differently because I was following the instructions which is sometimes a good thing, but sometimes it creates unnecessary extra work later.  For instance, I installed the gear door struts before installing the gear well into the booms and now they are in the way constantly.  They could easily have been installed at the end of the build when I add the doors, but hey, my experience will save you guys a lot of headaches in the future!
  16. Like
    BiggTim reacted to Erwin in The bunker   
    Started to paint the bunker. I find this one of the most difficult jobs of all.
     
    You must know that this is a "brand new"  1944 bunker.So the concrete is still fresh.No aging or weathering at all.
     
    I had a look at local construction sites to see the colour of new concrete.
     
    I first gave a dark gray base coat.Folowed with several lighter gray shaded.The dark gray still shows through the light gray.
     
    Once the roof is done too,the whole bunker will get a matt clear coat.
     
     
     

  17. Like
    BiggTim reacted to Vandy 1 VX 4 in Finally photo'd - Hasegawa FW190A8/R8   
    Looks great to me. Even with the blue painters tape on the Fuselage cross.
     
    Cheers
  18. Like
    BiggTim reacted to LSP_Kevin in Finally photo'd - Hasegawa FW190A8/R8   
    Looks great Tim! May I publish it on the website?
     
    Kev
  19. Like
    BiggTim reacted to joe in Finally photo'd - Hasegawa FW190A8/R8   
    That looks great. I love that scheme too.
  20. Like
    BiggTim got a reaction from MikeC in Finally photo'd - Hasegawa FW190A8/R8   
    So I finally took some photos of the Hasegawa FW190A8/R2 I finished just before Christmas 2014. I've been putting it off until I could learn a little more about how to take a decent photo with our new camera. Got more to learn, but these aren't too bad, so here you go.
     
    The paint scheme is of Black 8, flown by Willi Maximovitz. Im sure you all probably know more about it than I do!! I started this kit almost 10 years ago, and shelved it while I was away from the hobby, so when I got back, I decided to finish it off. Not the best paint job I've ever done, but I'm pretty happy with it. 
     
    Tim
     

     

     

     

     

     
    PS: Kudos to those of you who noticed the piece of blue tape holding the canopy on in the upside down shot!!
  21. Like
    BiggTim got a reaction from EmperorKai in the stash   
    1. 9 1/32 props that I can think of (3 WIPs), and 10 or so other scales and subjects, like some sci-fi, cars, armor, etc. I used to keep a stash of 40-50, but sold most of it off when I realized that I had a lot of cash tied up in stuff I would never build in my lifetime. Worked out well for me, because companies like Trumpy and others started making better kits after that anyway.
    2. To build them.
    3. Price and likelihood of actually building it determine whether it goes in the stash. I decide what to build next based on - a. Availability of good reference info, b. Inspiration from books, films, or people, or c. Whether I feel my modelling skills are up to the task. I've put off kits for years because I needed to get more experience in order to do it justice.
    4. Heavily. I have paid less than 50 bucks for every kit I've ever owned, except for one - the Trumpy P-38, for which I paid 70. That is my favorite plane of all time, and I waited 10 years after it came out to buy it so the price would go down to where I thought I wasn't getting ripped off. I'm a lot more likely to pay a tidy sum for good aftermarket stuff from a small company than I am for mass produced plastic. I know the small guys have to put a lot of skilled hands-on work into making them, so I feel that they deserve to be compensated for that hard work.
    5. I have 6 LSPs and maybe 10-15 other kits in various scales and subjects built, most of which are stored away because of lack of space to display. However, I have built well over 100 kits in my lifetime, maybe 150, including a number of very large scale balsa planes. Most of them went the way of the firecracker over the years, or "crashed" while suspended from fishing line above my bed when my mom would shake the blanket and forget they were there! I don't blow them up or hang them above the bed anymore. I don't think my wife would appreciate that, though my 10 year old son would be all over the blowing up part!
     
    Tim
  22. Like
    BiggTim reacted to xmh53wrench in Primer and NMF finish advice needed   
    BiggTim,
     
    I too am in a big learning process/curve with Alclad.  I really want to get the hang of this stuff.  My Monogram Mustang thread has my first real attempt at using this stuff, although probably not in the normal as designed sense.  I have been experimenting with different primers and undercoats as well as different Alclad overcoats to get different shades and sheens.
     
    Here is a test panel I shot....

     
    The undercoats from top to bottom were:
    ACE Gloss Black Lacquer
    Rustoleum Sandable Flat Black Primer (which is the base primer for the entire card)
    Rustoleum Flat Light Grey Primer
    ACE Gloss White Lacquer
    Krylon Satin Champagne
     
    Here is what I painted over the previously stated base coats.  (Left to Right) (The blacker spots toward the top have a much more mirrored appearance and were either photographing as a bright spot that affected the rest of the shades or blacked out)
    107 Chrome
    105 Polished Aluminum
    119 Airframe Aluminum
    101 Aluminum
    102 Duraluminum
    116 Semi Matte Aluminum
    115 Stainless Steel
     
    Also there is a coat of Rustoleum Crystal Clear Enamel bridging 105 &119, 101 & 102, and a thin strip of clear on the 116.
    The Clear changed some of the shades and made no difference to others except to add a gloss sheen.
     
    More info and the results on the plane can be seen here.
     
    I havent had quite the luck others have had masking the stuff, but I have yet to break down and buy Tamiya primer and tape....which will probably end up happening sooner or later.
     
    But Alclad is great!  
    Ive tried Model Masters Metalizers but that stuff was very very fragile and did not like decals or fingers.
  23. Like
    BiggTim got a reaction from Sparzanza in Finally photo'd - Hasegawa FW190A8/R8   
    So I finally took some photos of the Hasegawa FW190A8/R2 I finished just before Christmas 2014. I've been putting it off until I could learn a little more about how to take a decent photo with our new camera. Got more to learn, but these aren't too bad, so here you go.
     
    The paint scheme is of Black 8, flown by Willi Maximovitz. Im sure you all probably know more about it than I do!! I started this kit almost 10 years ago, and shelved it while I was away from the hobby, so when I got back, I decided to finish it off. Not the best paint job I've ever done, but I'm pretty happy with it. 
     
    Tim
     

     

     

     

     

     
    PS: Kudos to those of you who noticed the piece of blue tape holding the canopy on in the upside down shot!!
  24. Like
    BiggTim got a reaction from MARU5137 in Primer and NMF finish advice needed   
    You know, I've never used foil before, it scares the hell outta me. But it's an interesting alternative, especially if I ever do that XP-38 build up I'd like to do. Alclad is tempting to try as well, though it's very pricy. Thanks for the repsonses!
     
    Tim
  25. Like
    BiggTim got a reaction from MARU5137 in Primer and NMF finish advice needed   
    Rather than hunt through a million posts for this, what primer do you guys recommend for enamels, especially under NMF? I see a lot of you using Mr. Surfacer, but I can't get that locally, and it's too expensive online. Need some other options. Thanks,
     
    Tim
     
×
×
  • Create New...