Jump to content

Nessus

LSP_Members
  • Posts

    142
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Yeah, but that's Hobbyco for you Kev. They charge insanely, even allowing for GST and shipping. Having a shop in the QVB comes at a price I guess
  2. Then you are going to want to build these Vaughn..........Helios Delta 6 https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwjqt7GroeTxAhWTEjQIHTjACv4QwqsBegQIDhAB&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3D3kfJvD6iYQo&usg=AOvVaw2Xrk4giK3TYu0qMZEkx6RJ
  3. Depends on which genre you are talking about. LSP sure, very slow. Science fiction recently (as alluded to in another post) very active. Especially in the Ma.K universe (with Wave).
  4. Robots.................not in the Gundam Universe! Piloted Mobile Suits or Mobile Armour that need to battle in line of sight due to the Minovsky effect! Nice start John, although I have to admit the UC designs will always be my favourite!
  5. No, it should be a hollow all the way through, but some times you see a bluff body at the entrance to increase the pressure drop (relates to velocity). There should be a tapping point at the throat and then one half the diameter of the throat (for a classical venturi) along the shallower expanding section. The difference in pressure between the two relates to airspeed.
  6. Hi Kev, You might want to check your venturi installation. The longer tapering section should be at the back to assist with pressure recovery. Brendan
  7. Just the runners (sprues) of the kit. No instructions (I don't think) or anything else. Usually packed in a white box.
  8. Just a suggestion about the piano wire, mark the locations of the supports on the top of the litter, remove the existing wire and then drill through the litter into the base below. insert the wire from the top and cut flush.
  9. Just some background on the company, it is owned by Allen Ury, and originally the site was purely a collection of images of kits that Allen had collected (and for the most part built) over a long history as a modeller with comments on the source material, availability and rarity. If you look around there is some ultra rare stuff in there, including some of the Revell kits from Dune! Several years ago, Allen got into the model producing business, and yes, all of them are resin. Some are made by Anigrand Craftworks, others are contracted out. The subjects can tend to be somewhat obscure, but its the only place you will find kits from movies like Avatar or the Bubble Fighter from Lost in Space. More recently I believe the masters are 3D printed.
  10. Not so great at the documentation side of things, but I'll try. A conversion of the Trumpeter CH-47D to a SOAR MH-47G using Werner's conversion kit. There might be a smattering of Cobra Company stuff in there too, but so far, I've remade pretty much most of the components in that set. First things first, one of the defining characteristics are the enlarged fuel tanks. As Werner notes, the starboard one is cast short, so it was lengthened to fit. Held in place with 5 minute epoxy and brass pins...... Fits! Needs to be blended in top and bottom. Then something needs to be done about the rear of the fuselage in the ramp area. I'm aiming to get the majority of elements in here...........I know its not as surgical as Oliver's work! And then I ran out of styrene I do have the Live resin sets, and plan to crew it. So be patient, especially with the postage systems the way they are - I haven't even ordered from Live or Reedoak for figures yet, but there is plenty to do in the meantime. Comments and criticisms welcome
  11. Because people have an aversion to resin (and potentially its cost I guess). I see it at my local club. AM parts yes, but a whole kit, generally no.
  12. Thanks - I've been watching your Star Destroyer come together and I keep thinking I need to start my Anigrand one.......... As for the paint job, there are no real canon paint schemes from the Ma.K universe so anything goes. There is I guess a technically correct way that was used by Kow Yokoyama (the "father figure" of the whole Ma.K universe) to actually paint the figures but I have to admit I've never followed it. As for this scheme, given the craft is a Stingray, I based the camouflage on a real world stingray: The decals are out of the box (mostly) or other Ma.K kits. The nose art decal is from a sheet from Starship Modeler from years ago. Cheers, Brendan
  13. Better overall images. Shading and weathering next
  14. So this is technically large scale, but a spaceship from the Ma.K universe - an orbital weapons system developed by the Mercenary forces. Anyway.......the interior is rather empty and it you leave the large top hatch off it is quite visible. So it was filled with all sorts of greeblies = 1/48 flak trailers parts, gundam parts, bits from the old 1/32 Mirage, what ever looked good: Sealed up and then you can have your spaceship in which ever colour you like as long as its blue............. With the Stig's cuz for the future pilot (cobbled together from the kit options) - he needs some touch ups obviously: First layer of camouflage: Which ultimately became this: The larger blue spots were masked with blue tack, the smaller spots are painted in, as you can see part way through here....... And where I'm at now with mockup for the pilot: Nose art for the top hatch: Sorry for some of the photos - the iPad shots don't resize well. Comments and criticisms welcome. Brendan
×
×
  • Create New...