DoogsATX

Very nice work! I'm working on a 1/48 Tamiya Razorback right now that's destined for "Magic Carpet" livery. In my opinion one of the most distinctive Razorbacks out there, and the Y-29 background just adds to the appeal.

I use the timer setting on mine...I'm usually shooting at very slow shutter speeds to deal with the small apertures. Step the timer down to 2 seconds and it's as useful as a shutter cable.

I only have two must-have/I'd-buy-it-immediately wishes: A 1/32 OS2U Kingfisher, and a new-mold SPAD XIII.

Saw these a few months ago - what I want to know is when they're being released. I'm a big Sopwith fan, so I'll be going after the Tripe and Snipe once they release. Need to get off my duff and do my Pup Night Trainer before that day comes though...

Thanks all! Though I can't really take credit for the IP or the harness - those are both Eduard. Probably the two most impressive things I've ever seen them do. I recently picked up that new PCM Mk.XIV to go with this one, and if the reviews are anything to go by, think I may need to look at that new Hobby Boss Vb, too.

Well, since I'm new around here and am at the moment sans bench, it's going to be awhile before I can get anything new posted, so I figure I may as well put up my most recent 1/32 build, Tamiya's excellent Spitfire Mk.VIII. This one's near and dear to me as the kit that helped me maintain my sanity during a layoff and subsequent job hunt this summer. I kind of went to town with aftermarket - Eduard interior, Eduard seatbelts, Barracudacals rocker covers, wheels, cockpit door, seat, SAC gear struts, and Barracudacals markings for Leland Molland's "Fargo Express". Paints are mostly Model Master enamel - it was the only thing I could use in the summer heat without crazy dusting issues. Hope you enjoy!

Awesome! UPS just gave me this very kit yesterday...I'd made a very slight start on the Academy 1/48 kit before deciding I didn't have time to knock it out before the move...but I think the big Trumpy will probably take its place at the bench once I get things up and running again. I'll be coming back to check this one out again for sure when the time comes. Need to grab the Zotz set as well...though I so wish the Expected Goose markings were available in 32nd. Probably my favorite nose art of all time:

Very nice! The last time I tried to do a natural light photoshoot, a gust of wind lifted the posterboard and flung my La-5 to the patio. Amazingly, one of the gear struts snapped, but there was no other damage. But from now on I shoot in the garage. But yes...love the way the translucent plastic knocks the worst of the harshness away. A few other things you may want to try, for kicks... First - get into manual mode and set the aperture as low (largest f/number) as you can. This'll help keep ensure all of the model is in sharp focus. Not that I see any focus issues, but I know I suffered from them pretty bad when I first started trying to take decent pics. Second - you may want to put the tub up on something so you can get down for some lower-angle shots. I find they give the most "presence", especially on 1/32 kits. Well...except for Spitfires. For some reason they just look funny from a low front angle. Third - if you have Photoshop, try out the Unsharp Mask filter! This is armor, but it gives a really good idea of the effect it can have: Fourth - I'm still experimenting with dropping a kit into a real-life environment (need to work on my diorama skills instead of just using a grass mat!), but I've found it helps to "beat up" the kit image a bit so it more closely matches and blends into its surrounds. This one got some nice, harsh contrast, some serious magenta thrown into the overall color balance (since that's the way so much WWII color film seems to look), along with dust and grain. The background and sky are both photoshopped in:

I tend to favor a base primer of Mr. Surfacer 1200, followed by a mix of Tamiya X-1 Gloss Black and their Gloss Clear thinned with Mr. Leveling Thinner. I know the gloss black isn't required for most of the finishes, but on my last NMF I tested out a technique I'd read about that entailed using one of the high-shine shades as a base, then using Aluminum, Duraluminum, etc on top, staying away from the panel lines. Since the high-shines are slightly translucent, the black makes them darker and viola, shading! This one's Tamiya's 1/48 P-51, but I can't wait to try this technique out on something bigger...