Mustang JBB

https://www.scalemates.com/kits/hk-models-01e033-junkers-ju-52-3m--1295296?fbclid=IwAR0io5ZXMFiHEqQhM2LFtqgvnyH_LwjIACSE0zj5fSEhEIK88xTOVjq7t-g

https://www.scalemates.com/kits/hk-models-01e033-junkers-ju-52-3m--1295296?fbclid=IwAR0io5ZXMFiHEqQhM2LFtqgvnyH_LwjIACSE0zj5fSEhEIK88xTOVjq7t-g

I also use it for gap filling, because it is easy ti see against the light colored plastics of most models.  I agree that it is a little bit softer, and can be a little crumbly when tried to scribe through if you wait for maximum hardening.  Sanding and scribing within a few minutes of initial hardening is the best way to avoid this.  It does appear to take a bit longer to harden that standard CA, meaning 1 minute instead of two.  Even if using accelerator.
 
The black makes it very easy to see if you have properly feathered the edges and judge if you have filled all you need.  It also makes it much easier to see if you have sanded all of the CA applied.  As you sand, it runs from a shiny black to a rough finish to makes it easy to see the difference.
 
I also use Bob Smith Industries Rubber-toughened CA glue, as that is what my hobby shop has.  there is a guitar repair supply site on the web that sells various colored CA's that have no rubber in them.  They are pricey though. https://www.stewmac.com/Materials_and_Supplies/Glues_and_Adhesives/Glues/StewMac_Super_Glues/StewMac_Tinted_Super_Glue.html

That is the one!  Thanks amigo.

Man... this is disappointing.  I was really hoping for a reasonably good kit. but the problems keep popping out.  Has anyone mentioned the wing fillet?  Very 90 degree and sharp, whereas the real plane has a nice rounded and smooth fillet.
 
The P-61 had a few errors, but was not a bad kit overall.  The issues on that one are all easily fixable.  This one is just bad.  I hope they fix the issues, but not holding my breath. I was really looking forward to the B-24, but that wing profile is unforgivable.

Man... this is disappointing.  I was really hoping for a reasonably good kit. but the problems keep popping out.  Has anyone mentioned the wing fillet?  Very 90 degree and sharp, whereas the real plane has a nice rounded and smooth fillet.
 
The P-61 had a few errors, but was not a bad kit overall.  The issues on that one are all easily fixable.  This one is just bad.  I hope they fix the issues, but not holding my breath. I was really looking forward to the B-24, but that wing profile is unforgivable.

About two years ago, someone did a great post on the blue green mixed colors of the P-51, Lou IV.  Could someone please post a link to that article.

I hope it is real, I would love an Invader, but something tells me this is a hoax.  Crossing my fingers though!

Dear All,
 
I have been a member on this forum for a while, but this is my first post here; so far, I’ve been a lurker. My main interests are German WW II aircraft, and Soviet/Russian aircraft from WW II until the present. I'm finally getting back into scale modelling after a very long break.
 
I’d like to draw your attention to a model kit of the Bachem Ba 349A-1 ‘Natter’ rocket fighter in 1/18th scale that is currently being developed. The A-1 version was the initial production version for operational use. Three of these were tested in unmanned launches, and five operational machines were captured at the end of the war in Austria, one of which is now stored in the collections of the NASM.
 
The model on offer was designed in CAD, apparently with the aid of some of the people involved with the building of a 1/1 scale replica that is currently on display in Germany. Masters were printed on an SLA printer, and used to produce silicone molds for resin casting. The model is available in both 1/18 and 1/16 scales, and a 3D-printed pole launcher is also being offered.
 
The model was first announced on the Small Scale Headquarters forum; while this forum is mainly concerned with people who collect prebuilts, a few talented designers also occasionally offer limited-run resin kits of their own design (in the past, these have included a Horten Ho 229V3, Focke-Wulf Ta 183A ‘Hückebein’, Messerschmitt Me 163B-1 ‘Komet’, Mil Mi-24V ‘Hind-E’, Hawker Hurricane, and Henschel Hs 293A, all in 1/18). A test build of the Natter can be seen on this site here (scroll down; images of the CAD model are on the first page of the thread):
 
http://www.warbird-photos.com/gpxd/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=36920&start=25
 
I hope this will be of interest to at least some of you.
 
Kind regards,
 
Peter

No offense taken.  I do not have a build going right now, just collecting data, assembly tricks, and reference material, and asking the rest of the planet to join in and help each other out. 
 
The Facebook format has some advantages over forums and vice versa.  I will be watching all of the builds here  and on other forums as well.  A lot of people are on FB and not the forums.  Some people don't even know about this forum.  I am using FB to link people to this forum and the various threads here, along with linking them to other forums, manufacturer pages, reference photos and web pages etc.  LSP is great, but it is not a one stop shop, nor is FB.  FB is just another avenue to get more info to me and others.  I have 12 different knives on my hobby table.  They all cut, but they all cut just a little different that the other.
 
Someone commented above that they did not like the FB format.  If you build a FB page or group, you have access to tools to change the format, pin certain threads and posts, and tag threads so they appear  under certain classification buttons, like "after market", "tools", "paints" etc.  Just like we tag threads here.  All it takes is a few minutes to figure it all out.
 
By the way...  LSP has a FB page.

My FB page will draw content and users from all over the web.  I have posted links to several LSP forum threads already about the 1/24 F6F.  Lots of the people on my FB not did not know LSP(or LSM, Hyperscale, Nigel's Modelling Bench, and certain after market companies etc) existed before those posted links.  So I am sending the love back this way as well, and promoting the hobby in general.  

No offense taken.  I do not have a build going right now, just collecting data, assembly tricks, and reference material, and asking the rest of the planet to join in and help each other out. 
 
The Facebook format has some advantages over forums and vice versa.  I will be watching all of the builds here  and on other forums as well.  A lot of people are on FB and not the forums.  Some people don't even know about this forum.  I am using FB to link people to this forum and the various threads here, along with linking them to other forums, manufacturer pages, reference photos and web pages etc.  LSP is great, but it is not a one stop shop, nor is FB.  FB is just another avenue to get more info to me and others.  I have 12 different knives on my hobby table.  They all cut, but they all cut just a little different that the other.
 
Someone commented above that they did not like the FB format.  If you build a FB page or group, you have access to tools to change the format, pin certain threads and posts, and tag threads so they appear  under certain classification buttons, like "after market", "tools", "paints" etc.  Just like we tag threads here.  All it takes is a few minutes to figure it all out.
 
By the way...  LSP has a FB page.

https://www.facebook.com/search/top/?q=1%2F24 airfix hawker typhoon mk.ib builds&epa=SEARCH_BOX

I am a member of a Face book page that is dedicated to the 1/24 Airfix Typhoon kits.  We share build pictures, advice, and reference material useful for a successful build of that specific kit.  Since it has proved very beneficial, I decided to create a group just for the new 1/24 F6F Hellcat kit.
 
If you intend to build the kit, consider joining the page and sharing what you can, or seeing what others have to say.  I have posted a few starter links to build videos and aftermarket suppliers.
 
https://www.facebook.com/groups/359388731442410/

I am not particularly knowledgeable about Lufwaffe subjects so could not comment on the accuracy issues, other more knowledgeable people have identified the problems with the kit but I just used it as a fun build and did not try to correct anything. At the end of the day I ended up with (to my eyes) a most impressive model and enjoyed months of fun building it all for a very reasonable cost and no lost sleep worrying about it.

 
Cheers
 
Dennis

I started this build last year and tried to keep up with photos as I knew I would eventually start a build thread.  Now that I can see the light at the end of the tunnel, I think I am ready to post.
 
She is being built OOB except for seat belts and a few decal placard in the cockpit.  First pictures of the cockpit were taken before I realized Simple Green cleaner and Vallejo Aire clear flat don't like each other.  The clear coat frosted in reaction to the Simple Green and the RLM Gray looks a bit lighter now.  Generally, the cockpit still looks good, but I added some heavier washes and weathering to help the overall "look". 
 
Some of you with keen eyes will catch that I missed cutting out the wheel wells where needed for an F-2.  The outer part of the round wheel hole should have corners.  By the time I noticed this on the instructions, I had progressed on the build enough to not try to fix it, and risk making a big mess in the process.  




 
 
The Instrument panel was painted with white primer then Tamiya Gray and black.  I very carefull scraped away the black from the raised instrument detail to reveal the underlying white primer
 

 
 
 
 
 
 

Another picture of the left front fuselage.

 
The decals I will be using.
 

 
 

A small update on my painting progress.  Ben a few mistakes here and there, but nothing that can't be fixed.  Some how I managed to paint a nice and even scallop effect into the upper camo on the right side of the fuselage. This will be eliminated.
 



 
 
 
 
 

I have decided to try out the MRP line of acrylic lacquer paints.  I have mainly used Tamiya over the last few years, but they have always frustrated me by being delicate and easily damaged while handling the model.  Maybe it is just me being overly abusive with my models, but a problem none the less.  A buddy recommended lacquers, so I am giving this brand a try on the 109, and Gunze on the next model.  These are premixed right out of the bottle and spray very well.  However, adding some Mr. Leveling thinner makes it even better.  To spray the RLM 75 and 76, I thinned it 50/50 and it sprays like a dream through my Grex with a 0.2 mm tip and needle installed.  This is just the start.  There has been some tweaking and fixing since this photo as it has been a long time since I have tried to spry mottling and camo free hand.  Stiffness in my hands doesn't help either.
 
I am working out of town right now so it will be another week or so before I can get home and make some progress on this bird.  Once I get through the mottling, the rest of the paint job shoud go quickly.  All remaining parts are prepped and cleaned up, some are painted as well.  So the model should get wrapped up soon.
 

Since this plane will have some interesting mottling and camo, I decided to try a new approach (for me) to getting panel variation.  Normally I will use pre-shading, fading, and post shading, but this time I thought I would see how this approach goes.  The idea being to give each panel and underlying tone to make it look slightly diferent than the one next to it, once done with painting.  A slight twist on the armor builders use of tonal variation techniques.  The black and white are MRP paints over gray Mr. Surfacer 1000.
 


 
 
All my pics are from an iPhone so I apologize for the poor quality.  Here is the bottom after painting the MRP RLM 76 over the tonal panels.  This is the first pass to get it close to what I want.  It looks subtle in these pics, but was much more obvious to the naked eye.  I have since several more very thinned out layers to make the effect even more subtle.  Because of the number panels on the wings and the way the ones under the fuselage were laid out, I did have to do some pre shading.  This has been toned down as well.  The way it looks now does not show up in the pics well, so I decided to post these to show the effect.  You can see that the rear of the fuselage still needs more paint at this point.
 


 
 
 

I started this build last year and tried to keep up with photos as I knew I would eventually start a build thread.  Now that I can see the light at the end of the tunnel, I think I am ready to post.
 
She is being built OOB except for seat belts and a few decal placard in the cockpit.  First pictures of the cockpit were taken before I realized Simple Green cleaner and Vallejo Aire clear flat don't like each other.  The clear coat frosted in reaction to the Simple Green and the RLM Gray looks a bit lighter now.  Generally, the cockpit still looks good, but I added some heavier washes and weathering to help the overall "look". 
 
Some of you with keen eyes will catch that I missed cutting out the wheel wells where needed for an F-2.  The outer part of the round wheel hole should have corners.  By the time I noticed this on the instructions, I had progressed on the build enough to not try to fix it, and risk making a big mess in the process.  




 
 
The Instrument panel was painted with white primer then Tamiya Gray and black.  I very carefull scraped away the black from the raised instrument detail to reveal the underlying white primer
 

 
 
 
 
 
 

A small update on my painting progress.  Ben a few mistakes here and there, but nothing that can't be fixed.  Some how I managed to paint a nice and even scallop effect into the upper camo on the right side of the fuselage. This will be eliminated.
 



 
 
 
 
 

A small update on my painting progress.  Ben a few mistakes here and there, but nothing that can't be fixed.  Some how I managed to paint a nice and even scallop effect into the upper camo on the right side of the fuselage. This will be eliminated.
 



 
 
 
 
 

A small update on my painting progress.  Ben a few mistakes here and there, but nothing that can't be fixed.  Some how I managed to paint a nice and even scallop effect into the upper camo on the right side of the fuselage. This will be eliminated.
 



 
 
 
 
 

A small update on my painting progress.  Ben a few mistakes here and there, but nothing that can't be fixed.  Some how I managed to paint a nice and even scallop effect into the upper camo on the right side of the fuselage. This will be eliminated.