ChuckT

Sounds good Wolfe. Looking forward to another spit fix once you get back at her. Keep up the great work, Chuck.

Thanks Wolfe. The metallics (well lets be honest here, all of it really) looks great as usual. How's the spitfire coming along? Waiting for more reference materials?

Me too!

Thank you! For the life of me the solution wasn't coming to me but that's it! Thanks again, Chuck.

I am working on a master for a 1/32 Albatross W.4 float to copy for both sides as they are the same. It is roughly 6" long by 1" high by 1" wide at its thickest, tapering down on both ends. I am wondering if I need to consider reinforcing the float internally before I cast the resin to prevent it from warping over time and if so, how do I do this without compromising external detail? How do I secure the internal rod/wire while I pour the resin into the mold? Any pointers from you experts? Thanks in advance, Chuck.

By the way. What did you use for you metallics? They look great! We're they brush painted or airbrushed?

VERY nice! Another build by Wolfe to keep me inspired and educated! I just started scratch building a float for my (hopefully) Albatros W.4 conversion of the Roden D.I in 1/32.

Very nice looking plane! How did you find the kits build up. Any pointers or problems you can share with those of us thinking of building it ourselves someday?

I am having success drilling at 100 rpm! I start the hole with no lube (to prevent the bit from wandering) and once it is established, I then use lube, very light pressure and back the bit out often. It is working very well!

I like this method! Thanks for sharing it, Chuck.

Thanks!

I want to cast some tiny hexagonal bolt heads in resin to then use for various projects. I want to make the mold out of silicone and I am able to do vacuum degassing for the silicone mold material and pressure casting for the resin. I hope this will give me the good results I desire. My question is, what is the best way to make the mold? My hex bot head is attached to a stem, so I can drill some holes in plastic to then mount my stems into, thereby raising the bolt head off of the plastic backing sheet. This would give me a molded bolt head that will have an undercut. Will having a mold with a slight undercut be ok? Will the pressure casting cause the resin to fill the mold completely or do I need to add a vent at its deepest point to let the resin flow in and through the mold cavity? Any other ideas on how to do this successfully? Thanks as always, Chuck

Thanks for all the info (and PM's). I will give it another go tomomorrow when I get home from work (off to night shift tonight). I am only drilling in half way (3-4mm deep) when I drill (as that's all I want for my jig) and the last few times I tried (just before the bits broke) it made a squealing sound. Is that sound being caused by the bit being bound up in the hole (due to the cut material jambing and then breaking the bit)? If I drill with light pressure at roughly 1250 RPM's, no lube, and back out the drill bit often to clear the hole, do you think I will be ok? Is that speed about right? I have ordered some new carbide bits to see if that helps as well. I was using used carbide bits before. Any other comments or ideas on this?

Thanks for the ideas.

I am trying to make a jig which requires me to drill a bunch of tiny holes (.009"/.25mm) in a piece of plexiglass. I am using a modified Proxxon drill press stand/compound table with a Foredom motor tool to give me the slow speed and control needed for this operation. So far it has resulted in me breaking two drill bits! > I am drilling at low speed and backing out the bit frequently but still no success. Does anyone have any pointers on how I can do this successfully? Thanks in advance, Chuck.

That's a nice looking G! Any pics of the build online?

Looking fantastic! I love how it all comes together on the fuselage.

Oops! Kind of big pics! Sorry everyone. I'm still leanring here.

Here you go;

That's what I have for my set up already. I just need to get another pressure safety valve for my pressure pot. After trying to do a few Pressure tests to 40 psi (my intended casting pressure) it kept going off at roughly 30 psi! I need it to go off between 50 and 70 psi. It does look adjustable, but I don't have a split straight edged tool to tighten the nut that presses down on the spring. Any ideas?

Thanks Tim for the detailed explanation. I think I'm starting to get a grasp of it all. I have a pressure pot and compressor already so I want to step up to pressure casting, incorporating as much of the good advise everyone has shared here as possible. I hope in the new year to have the funds to get a vacuum pump, but until then I want to get the most out of my pressure set up. Thanks guys, Chuck.

Good question. I thought that same thing.

Thanks guys. All the info does help. I think I need to redo my mold taking in consideration which way the resin will flow and how the air can escape as it does. I didn't with my first mold. On it I used a single pour/vent hole and of course, it didn't allow the air to escape (duh)! I like the idea of the pour hole being lower than the vent hole(s). I will do this next time. Thanks Jerry for the seperate pour method. I never would have though to try that! I think I will try fixing up my mold first, as I could see myself screwing up your seperate pour method but if that doesn't work, I'll give your method a try. Thanks again, Chuck.

I'm trying to cast a replacement early style bf 109 seat (A-E) in 1/32 scale for my Eduard kits. I have made a master that I'm happy with and now want to resin cast copies to use in the kits. I used a vibrating plate when making the silicone molds to help settle the silicone and encourage the trapped air bubbles to rise up/ out. It seems to have worked. I do hope to get a vacuum pump and degass my silicone in the future for mold making, but for now I'm unable to do so. When I then went to make my first casting with the new two part mold, I found that the resin did not make its way down and into the furthest reaches of the mold. Will pressure casting and better venting of the mold fix this?

Even though I see there are much lower prices (and much higher mid you) to be had for this kit, I'm happy! Great deal for a kit of this complexity and size from Revell Germany. Let's hope they have more large scale kits in the works (like a 32 scale Do 17, Ju 88G, bf 110G...)