ChuckT

Thanks Wolf for the info on using pinstripe decals for thin white stripes. Can you tell us who offers them? I did a search but can't seem to source any.

Looking great Chuck. Fantastic tip on using the black sharpie. Can't wait for the next update.

Wow! So very nice Wolf. I'll second that question about the thin white stripe on the red handle, how did you do it? Thin cut white decal I'm guessing?

Very sharp! This build is really pushing the limits.

NOOOOOO OOOOO OOOO OOO OO O O! If anyone can recover from this, I'm sure it's you though.

Wow, thats sweet! Trying really hard to resist the pull, but "the force is strong in that one"!

Amazing! What else can one say?

Thanks Wolf.

I hear you. Like what your offering though!

Thanks for the info Wolf. I'm always trying to learn from "assemblers" like yourself! While I have you, can you share if you need to lay down a gloss coat to put the airscale decals onto, or is just the bare paint fine? Same question when you use the detailer washes. Is bare paint (gloss of flat) ok, or do the washes work better on a gloss surface?

Hey Wolf (regarding the Tamiya paints) what do you thin your paints with for airbrushing? What kind of thinning ratio do you find works best (paint to thinner) and do you use the same thinning medium for the semi gloss clear?

Very cool. Any chance you will be doing a HG III version down the road?

Yah yah, assembler. Now thats funny!

Woo Hoo! Christmas has come early on LSP! I cant think of a better present than another Wolf build. Looks amazing and looking forward to every update, Chuck.

Thanks for the reply Mark. The instructions say mix a minimum of 3 minutes so thats what I did. Not sure about the CFM of my pump or the pot volume, but the silicone has a 30 minute pot life. I think it took 30-45 seconds to get the pot down to 29"/HG, but thats just a guesstimate. I do set the silicone into a big container so it has space to rise then fall without over flowing. I guess I will need to do more research on what to do with the resin huh?

Thanks guys. Every little bit of info helps. I did some more reading up on this and according to smooth on (the manufacturer of my silicone) they say "degas the silicone for no more than 90 seconds after it has fallen (post rise)." Well, I guess went a little overboard with my degassing efforts, but fingers crossed it turns out ok. I think for my next attempt (with the silicone) I am going to do the following steps: -mix two parts together by hand for 3 minutes -degas mix for 90 seconds max post fall -Pour mix slowly into mold box over master -degas mix in box, 90 seconds post fall -release vacuum -IF master is hollow, allow mold to cure at atmospheric pressure in warm area 24 hours before demolding -IF master is solid, pressurize mold to 40 psi and allow to cure under pressure in warm area for 24 hours before demolding How does this sound for dealing with the silicone? For the actual resin casting, my plan is the following: -mix the two parts of resin together by hand for 30 seconds (the stuff I'm currently using has a really short pot life.) -pour resin into mold, then put under vacuum for 1 minute to degas -release vacuum, then pressurize mold to 40 psi -place pressure pot in warm area for 30 minutes while resin cures under pressure -remove casting from mold after an hour once fully cured All of the above times are pretty short due to my current batch of resin having such a short working time. Once I use this batch up, I will switch to a type with more working time and adjust my resin degassing and pressure times accordingly. Does this make sense?

29" HG +. It shows about 29.5"/HG on the gauge at the pump and on the clear lid.

I just did another round of vacuum degassing (of silicone) for making molds (for use in resin casting parts) and I need some casting experts advice. Before when I would degas, I would degas the two part silicone mix for 3 minutes, release the vacuum, then pour the degassed mix into my mold box, then degas for another 8 minutes. After that I would break the vacuum and allow the mold to cure for 24 hours in a warm location. In the past I couldn't see the degassing silicone due to my pressure pot having a solid lid, so I had no idea if all the bubbles were out or not. I just picked up a thick/clear lid (for my pressure pot) that allows me to see what the silicone is doing under vacuum and man, there are a LOT of bubbles in there! My question is, do I keep degassing the silicone until ALL the bubbles have stopped rising out OR should I just degas for the 3 minutes, pour, then degas 8 another minutes as done in the past? HELP!

Very nice recovery Chuck!

Fantastic as always.

I would be all over a G if they came out with it!

Wow! Not sure what else to say really.

Great idea on the model holder! I'll have to make me one up ASAP. Thanks, Chuck.

Awesome build!

Fantastic tutorial! Can't wait for the write up on pewter.