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Golden Bear

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About Golden Bear

  • Birthday 08/12/1953

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Salem, Oregon
  • Interests
    Designing and Building Card Models.
    19th century ships and naval technology.
    Playing Civilization!

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  1. Interesting subject, Tomek. It is always fascinating to me to see the different ways we all approach the issues in modeling, like your folds. I don't know if I'll use it but I will certainly try it out to see how it works. I'm not a big CA fan for fastening down parts on card because of some bad experiences with it letting loose. I have the same issue with shiny spots (not discoloration) using Duco Cement and try to use Alene's in exposed areas. I'm interested to see how you deal with it. Good looking start to the build! Carl
  2. Nooo, I missed the Mitchell also. ...and I will be testing out sides and decks later today but have a sink I need to unclog. Nice. Carl
  3. Beautiful, Mike! I'm sorry that I didn't twig to this thread right away. I missed it over at PM because I've been hiding in my bunker, heh. Your perserverence, attention to detail and originality in solutions is amazing. Many thanks for posting this thread with all the commentary. Ten minutes work in PSP would make that thread go away... but then we wouldn't have had the chuckle at the joke next to it! Carl
  4. Funny how the change in medium and in-knowledge affects things maybe. This is just a beautiful model and I am glad to see it. Airbrushing just scares the bejeezus out of me at all and I really admire your use with it. Carl
  5. Hi Tomek, I'll try to answer. Tricks... I am not certain here because I've never built a different commercial full hull. However, a general thing I like to do for attaching large skin areas... I use a variety of glues for different purposes and for this I like Duco cement. Using this, I apply a thorough but thin coat to the surfaces that will mate... both pieces, frame edges, joiners and the inside of the skin edges. Then I put another layer on the skin surface and fasten it down. Just trying to put on the glue and smush it down, sometimes the Duco dries or soaks in too fast and I don't get a good attachment. By doing this, I can usually get all edges to attach with no unattached gaps. I don't like Alene's for this because it softens the paper and, for me at least, can risk getting "starving dog" deformation. Duco has a downside that it dries shiny so if I get a little mess it shows up really obviously. Thus for attaching structures and details I really like Alene's. Yes there are black outlines on the parts. In the past, pre-Fred's-joiners days when I glued right onto the frames, these lines were not a problem. I am considering lightening these or eliminating them. However, I personally like somekind of marked edge to cut to rather than simply a color block. BTW, my part-cutting lines are 2/600 inch wide so that if you cut right on them the part comes out perfectly sized. I try to eliminate the questions about cutting middle/inside/outside line question. If I interpret correctly your question about colored through card stock, you are asking about using card that is already dyed by the manufacturer. I have no issues about this really except that you are the mercy of the colors from the manufacturer. I'm too much of a control freak to do this myself probably. If I were building this purely for myself I might consider spray painting the hull but I've had issues with that also. For some background about my choices when I build these prototypes, I try to make the build with the same materials that I provide in the kit that a modeler could eventually buy from me. I do cheat a little with purchased railings in some places but in most I'll try to stick to building them myself with the same guides that I provide. Carl
  6. Hi! Thank you Hubert, she is a favorite of mine. And, finally, some new photos. Not much but it gives me a sense of progress to post them. I finished skinning the lower hull. Recall that this is a prototype build from CAD design through layout and coloring before applying any glue. Curiously, everything fit just like it should! I made one tiny error with the long frame which should have little squares to support the hinge bars for the rudder. I can correct that one easily in the masters and fix it for the model with some bits of laminated cardstock. One of the interesting questions that I have to answer for myself is how to deal with the flat regions along the keel of a ship - towards the bow and stern on Iowa, you can see it in the photos. It is tempting just to ignore them since it is much easier to model and build the hull with skins that stretch from waterline to waterline. In this case I took advantage of having joiner strips to actually model the flat strips. I'm satisfied with that. I am not to satisfied with how dark the seams are. I've marked the joiners with black lines so that it is easy to know how to align each skin. Unfortunately this black line I think shows through enough to darken the seams. I'll need to think of something else... perhaps a line of lighter red. On to the upper hull sides... I'll probably wait a while before worrying about props and rudder since I would just knock them off several times over the next months of building. I need to do some thinking about the sides to decide if I want to build in the ability to model the casemate guns so that the shutters can be left open. If anybody is interested in some very nice photos of Iowa they can be found at the Library of Congress web site under the Detroit Publishing Company photo collection. Here is a link that might work: http://www.loc.gov/pictures/search/?q=Iowa%20battleship&co=det Carl
  7. Heh, you are sort of half correct. The rigging is either steel wire or stretched bead wire, which I switched to after a bit. I forget which I used on this but I think it is probably the steel. Stretched wire looks better I think. BTW, my adorable (because I have like 50 aircraft models in the liveing and family rooms) wife LOVES this model. I have to love a woman that doesn't complain about all those aircraft. The wheels are fishing leader wrapped around a mandrel and then squished with the hubs and wheels. A little tricky. I make my card wheels by laminating them and then hand sanding them with a block until they look correct. Real pros like Gil mount their wheels on their Dremel and turn them. I'm still sort of atavistic on that and like using my eye and hand. BTW, I learned how to do the wheels from Gil and from another fantastic modeler named Ted or "CmdrTed" in forums. If we are lucky maybe we can suck him in here. And as another BTW, with Gil you have maybe our world genius for figuring out high end card modeling techniques. Don't let him fool you because he seems just like another cool guy. I hope that you high-end plastic guys are OK with the card stuff. I must admit that I am getting huge enjoyment over seeing your builds. Just amazing work with plastic and paint. I really love a well turned model of any sort. Carl
  8. I'm eager to see how this weathering thing turns out, Jerry! Carl
  9. Thanks, Kev, Loic, Jerry, and... good to see you Hubert! I actually have goodness knows how many plane models around my house. I've only worked on a couple over the last 3-4 years that I have been learning to design cardmodel ships. So as a tease, here are couple photos of the Knoller that I built a while back. IIRC it is an Answer kit and probably cost around $15 U.S. The scale is 1:33. Answer kits tend to have some of the best coloring around but can be risky on fit and buildability. This one is one of my prizes however! Carl
  10. Hi Gil! I just want to make it clear that I am NOT here to sell models. I'm just looking for a comfortable and SAFE place to post! But, yes, it will become a card model kit that I will sell when I am done and have converted things so that people other than me can figure out my tricks. As for the "Great White Fleet" series, I don't have solid plans for more... yet. I have harvested quite a few very, very nice photos of Kearsarge and Kentucky (the class of ships built after Iowa). I need plans also, however. It looks like, in order to get these, I need to: 1) contact the Library of Congress and pay for a catalogue of available ship plans; 2) pay something on the order of $50 for a set of plans. Oregon has already been released as a cardmodel kit by Digital Navy so I won't rush to do any of that class... although I might mention that I built an approximate 1:200 model of her out of balsa wood, etc, when I was about 14 years old back in the 1960s. So I have a fondness for Oregon and will not rule out a Golden Bear version of her. In the meantime, my very, very good friend Renaud has been stealthing through French museums and I have copies of the original plans for Magenta!!!! (and Neptune coming soon). So I will probably be back to French ships after this. And, I would like to say that if the administrators of this site have any issues at all with mentions of my tiny cardmodeling business, please let me know and they will stop entirely. It might be likely that some very nice cardmodelers start hanging around this site as long as it is OK with the residents that are already here. They have a tendency to ask whether my models will turn into kits and I thought I could forestall that discussion by saying that they will be. The European cardmodelers have been very kind to me and show great support for my offerings. I really enjoy their discussions. Carl
  11. Hey, J and Stephen, my observation is that most sailing ships folks favor wood for their models with plastic a close second. The card model folks are just amazing to me and sort of a class unto themselves! Can you imagine rolling the little tubes for all those gun barrels, etc. Wow. BTW, I've been working on laying out the bridge for Iowa the past week or so. If you look at it you can see that it is complicated and I am trying to come up with some solutions for keeping everything square and shipshape when she goes together. I'm more in design and layout mindset at the moment than building. Carl
  12. These are photos of my most recently completed, scratch-designed and built model, Masséna. Carl
  13. Hi Jerry and J, thanks for looking in! Yes, this IS done with sailing ships and very successfully. There are a few people who specialize at it and are unbelievably good. Carl
  14. ...and this will be it for now. I've started skinning the lower hull. There are thin "joiner" strips that provide gluing surfaces for each of the skins that will lay over the top. The frames that these thin strips cross are all relieved (notched) a tiny bit to account for the card thickness with the result that the top surface of the joiner is even with the outer edges of the frames. Something of a pain to cut out but the result is soooo nice. Most people seem to like to apply lower hull skins from bow to stern or vice versa but I prefer to do it from the center out. Then if there is a slight accumulated error I can trim at the ends to make things even. Plus any accumlated error is halved. Carl
  15. I am going to add in this blurry photo because it shows how I modified the aft deck former so that it extends forward a little more and locks into a cross former... giving the entire structure more stability.
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