F16

In the mail today, I received a Master Model detail set which is a 1:72 version of the 1:48 details shown earlier in the thread. I immediately opened the package and took a couple quick pictures comparing the pitot tubes. 
 
I am going to go with the 1:72 version which I think looks perfect. 
 

 
 

 
 

 
1:48

 
1:72

 
1:48

 
1:72

 

Congrats, 
really really beautiful  !!!
F16
 
 

My brother in law served his Dutch Air Force time with these, working in a fire-control bunker in Germany. I decided to build this for him. There are not too many previews of this kit, and I found no build reports. So here goes.
 
Impressions:
 

 
 

 
Decals are very nice, and in register. The Dutch blue might be a tad too light though. Maybe I'll use masks instead.
 


















 
Some ejector pin markings are there, but they all seem to be in places that are invisible when assembled.
 

 
Overall, the part look quite nice on the sprue. And a final photo of a real one. I will finish it like the one on the right.
 

 
 
 
 

I was able to make a start yesterday. Construction Strat with the booster-half of the Nike. I can report the plastic is on the softer side. It reacts strongly to sandpaper, so I use finer grit and take more care than than usual for cleanup. So far part fit is so-so, but not bad. The ten-part connector ring, onto which the missile will be mounted. There are gaps that I need to address:
 

 
Everything seems to be very flush with little of the panel lines visible:

 

Let me first say this by far has been about the most difficult thing I have ever photographed.  Today is pretty overcast so I had to use some artificial lighting which in turn doesn't always work well with macro lenses due to your distance from the object.  Anyway...
 
This is the 1/32 Tamiya F-16 set.  It does not specify any particular block, but from what I can gather this should work for anything from 25 to 52 prior to the CUPID and CCID updates as well as older ANG C's.  It is also a good approximation of the F-16AM cockpit.  In all reality, unless someone is a diehard F-16 fan or former pilot, the differences are hard to spot.  Mine arrived in a stamped envelope wrapped in several sheets of plain copy paper.  There doesn't appear to be any damage.  There are two small sheets each in a separate bag along with instructions and a small set of diagrams for the cockpit tub and seat.  One sheet is dedicated to the instruments while the other is for the ejection seat and seatbelts.  A nice detail is that each instrument has a gloss coating and the panels represent the aircraft as "off" which some PE companies do not.
 
Before I get into the pictures, it is of note to let everyone know that these are not the peel and stick that others were thinking.  They are indeed waterslide decals; however, in the instructions they mention the use of various types of glues including CA.  I strongly advise against using any CA glue with these as water is the activating agent for any type of CA.  They do mention PVA, Microscale MetalFoi, Tamiya clear, Future, etc which I would recommend as well.  Really anything that is clear and can be thinned with water will work well.  A bit further down they mention to not use any decal setting solutions as it can possibly dissolve or distort the polyvinyl material that composes all the details.
 
Now to the pics...
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
My initial impressions are that of optimism.  This isn't a new idea as Eduard has been doing this for quite a number of years.  The only thing new is the method of creation.  Comparing them to the usual PE options, PE has a sharperer edging and flat surfaces, but these "decals" are already assembled, offer some flexibility (which is a plus for the belts), and have more depth (which allows for creating varying heights on switches and varying textures such as the seat padding).  When it comes to just the instrument panel, hands down PE is the winner; however, where this comes in to play is definitely the seat details and side panels with all their various switches and knobs.
 
As an added bonus, I zoomed way in with my microscope to see if I could actually read some of the instruments. 
 

 

 
As for the controversy...  if you are comfortable using Eduard Zoom or seatbelt sets, Yahu instruments, HGW seatbelts, etc, then these aren't that much different.  They aren't as simple as "peel and stick" as you have to remove molded in detail and then do some voodoo to combine decaling and gluing.
 
This set will find its way into the F-16AM that I am slowly working on.  Don't get too exited as it is still a long ways off as I have to do a lot of stenciling for the paint scheme before I can start assembly.

Congrats, 
really really beautiful  !!!
F16
 
 

Congrats, 
really really beautiful  !!!
F16
 
 

Congrats, 
really really beautiful  !!!
F16
 
 

Congrats, 
really really beautiful  !!!
F16
 
 

Hi,
There are So many good ideas , tips and tricks on this topic that I  would suggest to illustrate them with
draws, sketches and pics.
Many Years ago (1985) I used the then smallest bulb lamps from a digital Casio watch to illuminate the IP of my
ESCI FJ-3, 1/48, all the electric  was into the fuselage behind the cockpit with cables + -  running from the battery to
the rear of a scratch build IP made of transparent VIVAC sheet with Instruments faces glued in proper places, on-off switch,
the rear fuselage was opened at the "engine section" to change batteries.
Good times ...  thanks for remembering them to me
F16

I have used KASL 1/48 resin sets and I can say they are very well done and very well detailed, they use gray resin, 
I have bought KASL from HobbyEasy https://www.hobbyeasy.com/en/category/AIR12345678/AC48U/maker/KASL.html ,
this page for example where You can see yourself the level of details in the sets 1/48 , perhaps  in 1/32 will shown more.
 

 
F16
I 

Hi
Just saw it announced at Aviation Megastore news.
Hope RVHP produces this Conversion also in 1:48  and 1:32 scales too.
 
F16

Ive got the kit, and will be building mine using the fantastic AOA decals.
 
Fortunately for me, Im building a "Bull$hit bomber" (O-2A propaganda distributing bird from Nam) and the Lynx version of the kit comes with both fore and aft spinners. 

This time around, I took the measurements I needed from the engine tube, and cut it off at the length I needed. I then capped off the internal end with a suitably sized piece of very thick styrene sheet to support it, which eventually will be secured to an internal bulkhead. 
I have also taped on the Eduard resin exhaust can for measurement purposes too:
 

 
 
 
 
 
There are some minor gaps around the tube, as I didnt take a ton of time to cut it out since its never ever going to be seen again, but the end it purely flush with the end of the tube, and that is what I needed.  The seem running down the center of the exhaust tube is what I am going to use to guide the tube installation, to make sure its centered side to side.
The gaps around the tube will be filled for strength once attached prior to gluing things in:
 

 
 
 
 
 
With the resin exhaust taped on,  and the above styrene cutout now glued onto the engine tube, and with the internal bulkhead temporarily taped inside,  I did an experiment and taped all that together, then taped the fuselage together to see how the angle of the exhaust/mounting rod would look...........
 
Not too bad me thinks!!
 

 

 
 
 
 
 
The angle will be changed slightly to correct a tiny bit of down angle to the rod, then the internal bulkhead that the engine tube will be attached to will be glued into the fuselage permanently after I drill the hole for the exhaust LED.
The next challenge will be starting the process for getting the interior painted. The lighting setup calls for priming the inside, then likely some chrome paint to reflect all the light back inside VS having it bleed through the plastic.
Will need to work on the order I want to get that done in, as it all has to be inserted and painted prior to any of the engine mounting stuff getting fitted permanently. 
 
Cheers! 

Coming soon! In the works. Also don't forget about our EagleCals #99 that has FW 190 Sturmbock from JG 3

Hi
I hate to tell about it but I have a very nice Me-262A-2a from Trumpeter, and bought  in 2008 the MDC-RB resin set 
(RB-C32001) for  the conversion to the Me-262A-2a/U2. 
Some time ago I noted the  resin parts shrinkage ... sad,  it happens, because it was to be a very nice Glass Nose .
F16

Finally after years of wanting to know information about my friend Joe Pascetti's bird he crewed down in Mogadishu-Super 63, I have been able to befriend many crew chiefs and pilots who were there and was given many pics of OGS and their MH-60L's.
Here's what I'm modeling:

 
So tonight I finally started building it. First I had to correct the instrument panel and center console to represent close to what they looked like on the real MH-60L. The caution/advisory panel is located on the bottom left of the console on the real thing.
 KH's panel, though very nice, represents a later year panel and has the CA on the instrument panel itself.  So I took and cut down and sanded the Academy part and shaved off the detail on the console and glued it in place.  
Next i shaved off the detail on the KH IP and replaced it with some PE detail parts from Airscale. 

Next came a little more work on the console.  I added the parking brake handle and the chaff dispenser. Just waiting on some Archer rivets to make a  circuit breaker panel and I'll be done.
 

That's all for now.
Tim

I have one of them, the other is not at my local shop yet so will indeed when i can...….BUT the onus isn't on me as a reader of the post  to prove it, the onus is on the OP to offer evidence of his assertions before accusing things of being incorrect …

Ya, I meant "on your own" as far as they're not included in the Academy/AFV kits. That SAC gear though would still be missing the rest of the struts/arms I think that were also different from the lightweight gear? Not sure how much effort it would be too to install the SAC gear into the Academy kits since they're designed for the Hasegawa kit. Even more expensive option of course is to rob the gear/door parts from the Tamiya block 32 kit.
 
That Wheeliant set are the later fat tires for block 40 and later blocks if I'm not mistaken.

Hi
Searching ARC site, Walkarounds section, I saw this ;all  reproduced here under fair use of images for illustration purposes only.
 
-A-4M Ejection seat less chute pack and 'RISK' survival kit.  Looking down and to the rear.  Black cloth item is the ejection seat face curtain.  Oxygen and G-Suit connections are to the viewers rig
 
 
A-4M  The gray cylinder behind the headrest is the "ear burner" rocket actuated man seat separator.  The hinged yellow handle is usually called the helmet knocker.  Folding it up arms the seat.  the dark rectangular device attached to the belt buckle is a seawater activated chute release.

 
Hope they help you.
 
F16
 

Comparing with the pic from the F-A-18 Es on Prime Portal and  ARC's sites  reproduced here under fair use of images for illustration purposes only,  
 
,
 

 
F16

Comparing with the pic from the F-A-18 Es on Prime Portal and  ARC's sites  reproduced here under fair use of images for illustration purposes only,  
 
,
 

 
F16

Dave is unfortunately right as this is not the way Trumpeter-HB is working. A major strategy change would be required to see that.

I’m 100% sure the answer is no.  Given the fact that they really don’t know what any actual J looks like (based on what they put in the box), it’s not likely that they have any idea what the differences are in the other models.  We’ll get the D and it will end there for Hobby Boss.

THANK YOU! I have wanted 1/32 YF-16 for 40 years. I got to sit in cockpit of one of first two test birds at Edwards AFB. My Dad ran the weapons shop.