dashotgun

ohhh

i wrote to amur about the flaps so 10 dollars for the part and 6 for shipping this is about 1/2 the cost of the model. I am going to try rato technique on the flaps this will also get rid of the slight wavy sink mark as well. The model comes with tow sets of flaps one to pose them raised and on down. Since the hydraulics pressure bleed on mustangs eventually as the ac sits the flaps go down do I can practice on the raised flaps. here is a link if anyone is interested http://www.ratomodeling.com.br/articles/stressed_skin/ below is a link picture of the amur flaps if I screw it up there is a backup. http://amurreaver.ru/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/DSC_9788.jpg Since I officaly started I probably should start an in progress page but will continue here for a time to get some additional advise

Yes the panel line on the top syncs up but then you would have to rivet the rest of the kit and build up the tail wheel box. I agree after sitting with it for a while. I cut off the tabs on the rear of the main section and sanded the back of the cockpit part side walls. there will be no gap. Careful clean up of parts is modeling 101. I also drilled out one bank of the exhaust again 101 stuff. Not to demean anyone else's skills but a lot of the criticism of fit is just not doing the basics i think then blaming the engineers of the kit. That explains why some had trouble and not others. I think it is amazing that the left over parts of the tamiya are just about interchangeable between kits says a lot about the basic research

what blue did you end up using I have the eagle edition decals in my box next up.

thanks I have the barracuda wheels and the decals although I have 2 of those may save them for the two cripes a mighty I am planning( have two tamiyas on the shelf). I have a yahu ip. I emailed amur to see how much and shipping to usa. Ihave 4-5 tamiya canopies have to take a look at the windscreen to see if I can live with it. The beauty and the bain of the kit is it was cheap I am trying to not spend so much $ on it though just for general purposes. Other then the completed photos here and elsewhere no one besides me is going to look at it much less notice these things

At some point i vaguely recalledpeople saying to use the tamiya early tail assembly instead of the the revell one. I have one but don't see the advantage. I may explore using the tamiya shrouded exhaust as well as hollowing out the revell parts last choice buying some hollow ones.

Thanks radu i was thinking of attaching the sidewalls separately as you described i know you helped design the model and have built several so your advise carries some weight.

this was I what looking for if any one else is looking here it is

When it came out i remember some people had a few issues and workarounds but did not save them. I have the early tail from tamiya also some extra tamiya canopies any suggestions of pitfalls. Btw doing frenesi

Fwiw found the bondo and before that tried some mr liquid putty which was able to bridge the gap. I also found that mig ammo makes a small tube of acryl putty so choices. Fo now the plane goes back on the shelf but will work on it as the paint dries on the new active project

hm I don't feel so bad anymore

i have the frog tape it is good for broad areas of masking to thick for the finer stuff but it comes on huge role

saw this reviewed on florey and ordered it off of amazon tried it on a canopy slightly stiffer then tamiya but works great https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MDYLNB7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 one of many brands

saw this reviewed on florey and ordered it off of amazon tried it on a canopy slightly stiffer then tamiya but works great https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MDYLNB7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 one of many brands

I started the tamiya spit IX when it came out and went gangbusters but despite the rest of the project looking great never lined up the power egg properly and the front panels have ungodly gaps. it has sat all this time so 10 years. I will finish it yet! what is your storey

I started the tamiya spit IX when it came out and went gangbusters but despite the rest of the project looking great never lined up the power egg properly and the front panels have ungodly gaps. it has sat all this time so 10 years. I will finish it yet! what is your storey

with careful prep and a good model I don't often need putty if I do I use mr liquid putty which is superb. Sometimes you need another feather in the quiver though Bondo shrinks and is a pain to work with to some degree. I have a spit ix on the shelf of doom somehow I screwed up the front magnetic panels and want to close up the front the gaps are horrendous the rest of the model is great I could lay down some sprue and liquid cement or putty it up. #m looks promising a 1.5 minute work time and 20 minute sanding time. it is a bit expensive at 17 dollars( free shipping though) and it is 14 oz which should last me into the next millineum. Waying my choices i want to see if anyone has used it. The shelf of doom project has been sitting since 2009 so it can wait a bit longer he that is a good topic for general how old is your oldest shelf of doom

checked out hgw and surprisingly they only wanted to charge 22 for the shipping hmmm went ahead and also got he rivet decals for the fw a 8 I was going to paypal but their exchange rate was stupid expensive my cc does gives me close to the bank exchange rate

nope out of stock. they have a grand total of 2 1/32 in stock

but shipping for europe will double the price to nc

great and not available at most of my stores I did find it on amazon for 100 plus shipping for a 54 dollar list kit sigh

yes noticed the same thing so many kits are backordered. I agree a bit of both the shipping is in the pits and that people are turning to hobbies with so much free time on their hands. I wonder if there are a lot of newbies on the site?

both 1/48 here

ha forced perspective the chief is 1/48

decals courtesy of LSP