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Everything posted by LSP_Kevin

  1. A fantastic result Dave! I really enjoyed seeing the comparison shots too - your other models also look terrific. You'd never know this wasn't from a kit. Well done! Kev
  2. Reminds me of the old axiom about a lie repeated often enough becoming the truth (this is where urban myths/legends come from). Kev
  3. Some small progress today. I managed to fix the prop painting (though not without its own dramas), and I've finished the engine off. First, the prop: I almost completely ruined it by not properly clearing my airbrush nozzle of lacquer thinner before spraying the protective coat of Future. The first squirt turned out to be more lacquer thinner than Future. I had drips, runs, bleeds and general paint chaos, so I had to leave it overnight and sand the worst of it off for repainting, which I've just finished. It's not perfect, but looks OK - I oversprayed the stencils with thinned red/brown to tone them down a bit. Another coat of Future and a wash and it should pass muster. Still got to deal with the yellow prop warning stripes though. Here's the finished engine (apologies for the poor photo): You won't see much through the closed cowl front anyway, so it should be effective enough. So, first time trying to detail an engine (albeit a token effort), and first time using dry transfers. Kev
  4. I thought I'd start with the HobbyDecal stencils by adding the ones for the propeller spinner, but as usual not everything went to plan: As I'd already assembled the parts, access was awkward to say the least, and my first attempt only transfered half of each stencil. I was able to line it all up again quickly, but this time I overdid the rubbing, and the grey streaks you see in the photo are where some paint has been lifted off by the backing adhesive (apologies for the poor photo). Any suggestions as to how best fix this one? I'm contemplating coating the entire spinner with Future, and then, when dry, masking the stencil and respraying the affected area. The paint is so thin there's no way I could touch it up with a brush. I think the stencils will need toning down anyway - very bright! Kev
  5. Many thanks Manny! Let's hope I can put them to good use. More updates soon. Kev
  6. Thanks Manny - beautiful Hayate! I wonder if the Mr Color version of Orange Yellow (N.58) is the same shade as their acrylic version (H-24)? My jar looks more orange than the colour on your Hayate, but photos can be deceiving. I'm currently leaning towards using the HobbyDecal transfers for the propeller stuff and using the Gunze Orange Yellow for the leading edges. I'm sure they won't match closely, but shouldn't clash too badly either - I hope! Kev
  7. Looks fantastic Dave! And you're right, my disassembled Zero had fewer parts than that! This is going to look pretty keen when done. Kev
  8. Thanks Dave, I knew I wasn't dreaming! Useful info, and thanks once again to Alan for providing it. I might leave the paint dry until tomorrow before working up the courage to give it a go. Having already assembled all the bits will make the task a bit more challenging, but nothing ventured... Kev
  9. I've just pulled out the HobbyDecal sheet, and it does indeed have markings for the propeller tips. In fact, it is replete with every kind of stencil you could ever need for a 1/32 Zero, including several for the propeller assembly alone. The problem is, I'm not sure I could successfully apply them to the already-assembled unit. I keep imagining all sorts of horrendous breakage. Also, what type of surface are they best applied to - gloss or flat? I'm sure I saw a how-to somewhere around the place, but can't find it now. Kev
  10. Beautiful job Keith. You say it's a Monogram kit? Didn't realise they had any 109s in 1/32 - is it a reboxing of the Hasegawa kit? Kev
  11. Thanks Dave. At this stage I'm planning to paint the prop stripes and leading edge markings. Previously for Japanese aircraft I've used Gunze H-24 Orange Yellow, but it's a little too orange in reality I think. Having said that, it matches the colour used for the profiles in the Modelmania book pretty closely, but not the colour on the restored aircraft in the photos. I don't want to custom mix anything, as I'll never be able to duplicate it again. If there's that much variation then perhaps it doesn't matter that much, and the Gunze Orange Yellow will be do. Kev
  12. Thanks Dave. Any suggestions on what shade of yellow is most appropriate? Kev
  13. Back from a short holiday with my family, so I thought I'd get stuck right in! I've assembled and painted the modified propeller assembly: It's painted with Tamiya XF-64 as per RookieLSP's suggestion. It's not perfect, but a major improvement over how it was, which was my goal anyhow. It'll get a coat of Future and a wash next, but before I get too far along, a question: did all Zero props have the yellow warning stripes near the tips? My references for the particular machine I'm building don't show the propeller blades, but most of the drawings and photos I've seen have them. If so, I'll add them before moving on. I've also been attempting to detail (ahem) the engine: In the end all I did was add the cylinder bracing struts from styrene rod and some additional wiring from electrical wire. I originally had many more wires coming out, but they kept breaking off every time I tried to bend them to shape, so I left it at what you see. Again, not perfect, but an improvement, and adequate for what little you'll see through the front of the cowling. I know it all seems fairly lame compared to what we see here every day from others, but hey, I gotta start somewhere! Kev
  14. Like many others have said, I'd keep 'em too. I'm finding that I'm learning a lot more from struggling with these old kits than I ever would building their modern replacements. I also find them useful for (somewhat) fearlessly trying out new, potentially disastrous techniques. My current Revell Zero build is my scratchbuilding/detailing testbed. Too bad you're not in Australia - I'd buy a few off you! Kev
  15. Thanks for the encouragement Stephen (and everyone else). I only returned to the hobby at the end of last year and have been feeling my way back as I go along. Just about every second technique I try is new for me, so there's certainly lots of learning going on! Not having the means to simply pick up any aftermarket items I so desire, I'm really forced to deal with a kit's inadequacies the old fashioned way (and my stash is full of these old, inadequate kits!). My Dora build turned out better than I'd ever thought it would, so here's hoping the Zero will also be decent when it's done. To be honest, apart from an exercise in skills acquisition, my main goal with this build is really to see how much better I can make it look than it did sitting on my shelf for 15 years. Kev
  16. Thanks Dave! I think it looks OK, and agree that it's better than the original kit interpretation. I managed to pick up some XF-64 today (had to visit 3 hobby shops to find it!), so I'm good to go there. It actually doesn't look too different from XF-10 (flat brown), which is what I've used in the past. Thanks once again Manny. I think I'll need all the help I can get, and don't mind waiting at all! I'll be away for the rest of this week anyway, so progress will stop temporarily. It will be interesting seeing what I can shoehorn into this old girl from other kits. Kev
  17. OK, while contemplating my options for the seat, I decided to do some work on the spinner. The first task was to correct the too-blunt profile. First, I drilled a small pilot hole in the end and glued a length of styrene rod into it. I trimmed this and used it as an anchor for building up the tip with Milliput. After sanding to shape, I scribed and riveted it, and built some blanking plates for the areas under the propeller blades. Here's the result so far: I think it's probably too pointy now, but hopefully it will look OK once painted and weathered. I think I'm finally narrowing down my choice of schemes too, so the prop will most likely be an all-brown affair. Any tips on what to do with that engine? I have no intentions of opening the cowling, so no need for superdetailing. Kev
  18. Thanks Dan, but hey, I am pushing myself! One area of trouble here is in trying to sketch out an accurate shape to begin with. After that comes cutting it out properly! I do have to be careful to limit my ambitions somewhat though, as I really do want to finish this one, and not consign it to the scrap heap because I bit off more than I could chew. I guess you have to learn to crawl before you can walk (etc), so I can't really expect to go from chronic hack to Radu clone in a single build. More to come... Kev
  19. Thanks for the encouragement guys. Here's my latest attempt at scratchbuilding a seat: Left to right: kit seat, first attempt, latest attempt. It's an improvement, and the overall shape is closer to the real thing, but I've lost the characteristic curved back. I guess it will look OK painted up and in situ, but I think I'll wait for Manny's resin replacement. Kev
  20. As I've explained elsewhere, getting your photos to a small enough file size is just as much a function of file compression as it is pixel dimensions. A lightly compressed JPEG @ 800x600 can still we well over 100KB, whereas a heavily compressed JPEG @ 800x600 might be 20KB or less (and look like absolute rubbish). You just need to dial up the compression a little more in whatever software you're using to reduce the images. Kev
  21. I think I've got a couple of their sets that I bought years ago, but never used them. From memory they're stainless steel PE sets. Kev
  22. Thanks Allok. You're right about the kit seat - purely fictional. The look of the seat on late model Zeros is pretty well-known, and the seat itself is pretty obvious in the cockpit, so I'm keen to get it looking the part. I used the kit part to determine the rough dimensions, and then a combination of photos and drawings (including those in the instructions for the Tamiya kit) for the specifics. The shape is way off, so here's hoping I get closer with the second go. Kev
  23. Wonderful Brian. I agree with Chris about the markings too - I'm sure they weren't note-perfect on the real aircraft all of the time. Kev
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