Iain

Playing with the internal bulkheads I had a eureka moment - back to that later.
 
The bulkheads are generally well detailed - some of it made up, but most of it actually fairly presentable:
 

 
Nose gear bay - a little shallow, but will probably get away with using it more, or less, as is...
 

 
Have left the nose leg off and worry about that later.
 
Section of starboard cockpit above sill removed from the fueslage moulding and bonded to the canopy. Both main canopy sections also bonded:
 

 
And the main glazings ready to make moulds, to make resin copies for re-shaping as patterns.
 

 
Pity the shapes are all out because they are, otherwise, well moulded and appear to fit the kit fuselage very well!
 

 
That's it for now - putting away whilst I work on something a lot simpler - but I do now have a plan...
 
Iain

So, now we get to the 'importanter' bits - nose/kit - kit/nose...
 

 
There's an Invader lurking in there - somewhere!
 

 
In side profile - almost an exact match!
 
The HB kit plastic curves up a little ahead of the nose-wheel bay - which should be flat - and I may knock 2 - 3% of the height of the printed nose in a subsequent print.
 
But actually quite surprised how close it is!
 

 
And in plan view the width is almost spot on:
 

 
Which tends to support the kit designers use of some reasonable 3-view drawings for plan and side elevation - but appear to have 'made-up' a lot of the transitions in-between!
 
Talking of which - from another angle we can see the differences in cross section.
 
At present I actually think the 'truth' may be somewhere between the two - and there's more than enough material (both 3D print and kit plastic) to be able to re-shape as required.
 

 

 
And, if you extrapolate the 3D printed nose back it actually ties in well with the kit fuselage further back:
 

 
All, actually, quite positive! 
 
It just might not look too positive - yet.
 
So - I think the next step is to build up the kit internal bulkheads and floors - I'd like to get the fuselage stable/solid enough to start on some cross-sectional re-profiling.
 
Nimrod one zero departing the circuit to the North West, will report on rejoin...
 
Iain
 
 

Printed nose removed from supports:
 

 
Printed nose insert in position - this provides a stepped backing/anchorage for the gun barrels when fitted:
 

 

 
And with the rear surface dressed off on wet and dry paper - used wet - a la vac-form:
 

 
So, I actually have three noses to choose from now:
 

 
3D Print, kit and the ID Models vac I was playing with 30 years ago!!
 
Nimrod one zero going around...
 
Iain
 
 

Nimrod one zero inbound...
 
Nose print - this is was designed in 1:48 to correct the nose on the ICM kit.
 

 
it's an easy job to scale 150% to get to 1:32...
 

 
Bearing in mind the cross section is designed to match the ICM kit - but it was based on measurements taken from a real nose - and has to be a reasonably close starting point.
 
We'll come back to that shortly...
 
My thanks to @Rob Colvin for the heads-up in the 3D Printing section, as it was his post that re-ignited some enthusiasm.
 
STL file is available here: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/1-48-invader-8-gun-nose-correction-set
 
File printed using my Sonic Mini 4k.
 
This thread took me to the designer called brewitman on Cults - and the wheel/tyre sets he's designed for the ICM kits: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/1-48-b-26k-counter-invader-correct-wheel-set-v2
 
So the STL files for these were also purchased, downloaded, scaled and printed:
 

 
And the excellent R-2800C CAD model by @Fancherello - these are actually minor failures - but I'll assemble some cylinders onto the block to confirm whether I need to scale down a little:
 

 
Nimrod 10 downwind 27 touch and go...
 
Iain
 

Yes, more thread resurrection madness... 
 
Well, with some days off the treadmill over Easter I've only gooone and resurrected another stalled build!
 
With some '60s era music blaring out over Spotify, I have mostly been scaling up and printing a corrected gun nose, and a set of B-26K wheels (designed for 1:48) - which has bouyed enthusiasm considerably.
 

 
Have also been printing @Fancherello's excellent R-2800C engines that he designed for the HpH Tigercat - with the correct crankcase design for the '26K. I may need to scale it down a little from feedback I've seen.
 
With a fresh coat of looking at I *think* have a clearer picture of how to vastly improve the look of the fuselage - and, probably, keep the bomb bay.
 
The wings will be lifted on the fuselage - but there's a *lot* more work required there. The wing aerofoil is out (where have I seen that before on Hobbyboss kits, I wonder? ) - the oil cooler intakes are a work of fiction, and the nacelles are too far up with respect to the wing(as you'd expect if the kit's designers got the wings too low). The overwing nacelle/wing upper surface shapes in the kit, compared to photos of the original, support this.
 
This is all fixable IMHO - but I'm now taking the attitude that this is a 'kit improved scratch-build' - very little of the kit will remain untouched.
 
And the canopies will need vaccing...
 
Fuselage (and a few details that I can do) first, before I even look at the wings/nacelles/cowlings.
 
I've also acquired the ICM 1:48 kit of the 'Nimrod' - and am further up the CAD design leaning curve - which could be dangerous.
 
So - will do some more work on it - but this will probably continue to be an on/parked project as enthusiasm flows and ebbs.
 
But - I *really* want to build this.
 
Nimrod 10 out, will report on rejoin with some intel images shortly...
 

 
Iain
 

great job Iain, we know there is an A26 in that kit somewhere, it just takes a genius to wring it out..
 
these are from Aircorps Library if it helps
 

 

 

 
Good luck
 
Peter

Today, besides being Easter, it is the anniversary of another trip around the sun. 
 

 
I got it from SB at a discount because of the box damage. It's a BIG box.  I asked my 4 yr. old grandson if he'd carry it upstairs for me. He grabbed it, lifted it, and said then said I needed to take it.  Of course, you've already guessed it, I bought it, I wrapped it, etc. I was planning on purchasing the Kate model anyway, so when this showed up for a discount, I thought about it, and after a few hours, why not. I need to look at the figures kit, I'm thinking it may take several of those to make it look good. 

Two new kits, both gifts from fellow LSP mates. Beautiful AM Avenger, and the great Hasegawa Tony. The first is from a member that will remain anonymous unless I hear different, the second is from Ruben (Firefly7). I had built the Tony before, but really hosed it up, so had been wanting another for a while. Thanks a ton fellas, great gestures from you two, and both kits are very much appreciated.
 

 

 
 

I’m not an alcoholic…they go to meetings. I just drink a lot.

Not sure.  Ideally I’d like to paint as many of the markings as possible, so that would suggest something simpler than that rooster roundel on the side.  But we’ll see.

Lovely subject!
 
Iain

Playing with the internal bulkheads I had a eureka moment - back to that later.
 
The bulkheads are generally well detailed - some of it made up, but most of it actually fairly presentable:
 

 
Nose gear bay - a little shallow, but will probably get away with using it more, or less, as is...
 

 
Have left the nose leg off and worry about that later.
 
Section of starboard cockpit above sill removed from the fueslage moulding and bonded to the canopy. Both main canopy sections also bonded:
 

 
And the main glazings ready to make moulds, to make resin copies for re-shaping as patterns.
 

 
Pity the shapes are all out because they are, otherwise, well moulded and appear to fit the kit fuselage very well!
 

 
That's it for now - putting away whilst I work on something a lot simpler - but I do now have a plan...
 
Iain

That's just beautiful Miloslav!
 

 
Iain

Thanks Matt! Yep, it's definitely an acquired skill and as long as you're not in a hurry, it's a pretty good way to go. 
 
Been absent for a while with the addition of a new puppy, just to add more complexity and less free time into our lives .
 
 
He's a 7 month old German short-haired pointer and if he knows what's good for him, he'll stay away from the bench....... He's actually pretty good, and spends approximately 90% of his day upside-down asleep. 
 
That being said, I finally got a bit more time on the B-17 this evening. The "stainless steel" material I'd used around the turbos had always bothered me...... It was a crafting material that was a kind of malleable plastic, and just didn't look right. I had to do something about it, but what? I thought about experimenting with trying to darken some litho sheet. I vaguely remember something about boiling aluminium foil with egg shells, but that seemed like a pretty inconsistent approach. I know the real panels were stainless steel to withstand the heat, but actual stainless is an incredibly hard material to work with (nowhere near as friendly as litho and not to mention can't be annealed to make it softer for compound curves), so what to do? 
 
I eventually came across some very thin stainless steel sheet (read heavy "foil") from Hobby Tools Australia https://www.hobbytools.com.au/k-s-stainless-steel-foil-roll-300mm-x-760mm-x-05mm/ and decided to give it a go. When I got it the first thing that was readily apparent is that it couldn't be scored and snapped like litho, so I then had to some some jeweller's shears in order to cut it. Cutting very small diameter inside curves is an absolute nightmare (like around the back end of the turbos, but can be achieved with great care. 
 
To remind you of what I had:
Wow it really does look horrible doesn't it?
 
Not even knowing if contact cement was going to be enough to hold each piece against the slight compound curves, I did what I always do, threw caution to the wind and jumped straight in..... Initial tests with a rivet wheel showed the the stainless actually took and held rivet detail exceptionally well, and despite my fears, there was actually just enough "flex" to coax the panels I needed into shape. Thankfully the contact cement worked perfectly. 
 
And so after a few hours, I actually had it looking much, much, more B-17 like  
 
 
The photos don't really do it justice, but the colour change is noticeable, as is the sharpness of the rivets as opposed to the much softer litho plate..... Can't say I'd want to do a cowling in it, but for the (mostly) flattish panels around the turbos, I am super happy!
 
 
 
 
Not too bad at all! And it was even malleable/thin enough to carefully fold over the lip and into the exhaust/supercharger recesses with a bit of gentle tapping from a hammer. 
 
Compare the inboard nacelle to the outboard...... absolute chalk and cheese!
 
It was of course, only after I stuck the panels down it occured to me that I could have got some lovely heat staining by using the blow torch, but there's no way I'm pulling those new panels off to try it!
 
The good news is that I feel confident enough with it now to try and do the area just aft of the firewalls with it too. Definitely much more work than litho, but well and truely worth it!
 
Cheers, 
 
Craig 
 
 
 
 

Trumpeter 1/32 model,
Kagero decals,
Reskin wheels set,
Phoenix cockpit, 
All colors MRP
 



 








 
 












 
 

Hello all of you shiny, happy people. I hope everyone is well.
 
A little while ago Airfix released a large scale MkIX Spitfire in 1/24th scale. I was lucky enough to be at the launch event and was blown away by the look of the models on display.
I resolved there and then to treat myself to one. I got the kit in December 2023 and began it shortly after unwrapping it on Christmas day. 
 
The kit is substantial and relatively easy to build although it gets a tad unwieldy due to it's size so care must be taken in the latter stages of the build.
 
For a kit this size the detail is good. However, there are many aftermarket parts available that improve the look still more.
I opted to enhance the cockpit by scratch building a few elements and treating myself to the beautiful Airscale cockpit upgrade. To my mind this is a must for this model. 
It takes patience to assemble but improves the face of the cockpit no end. 
 

 
The other bits of aftermarket that I'd recommend would be a set of wheels, an entry door and exhausts.
 
There are a few wheel sets available. The ones I went for were by Eduard
 

 
The detail is great and the wheels look the part but for some reason the subtle molded in flat spot doesn't sit flat on the ground when they are fitted so some judicious sanding is required. If you choose to use these be aware of this before glueing them in place. 
The door is by Buchon models and is a definite improvement over the somewhat chunky kit part. 
 

 
Lastly, one area where Airfix really dropped the ball is the exhaust stubs. What were they thinking? 
For a start these are molded in two parts but not where a seam line falls. If two parts are necessary why not make the join along an actual seam? 
Also, there is a huge hole in the underside of each stub that has to be filled. I can't help wondering if the designer was off the day these were created and the janitor had a go.....
 
Fortunately Eduard come to the rescue with a beautiful 3D printed set. 
 

 
Another must for this build in my humble opinion. 
 
Airfix include a plethora of markings but for this build I turned to a combination of 1ManArmy masks and some custom masks kindly created for me by Mozart here on LSP. Many thanks Max
I was hoping that painting the markings would give better results in this scale. All of the masks worked beautifully and the fidelity of the stencils needs to be seen to be believed. 
Add one more to the "must have" list for this build.
The 1ManArmy set replicates the markings offered in the kit but my aircraft depicts an aircraft of 412 RCAF sqdn. This squadron was formed in 1941 at RAF Digby in Lincolnshire which is only a stone's throw from where I live. 
 
Thank you for your patience so far. Now after this pre-amble it's on to the RFI photos. 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Setting a couple of hiccups aside (I lost one of the Eduard exhaust stubs) I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. 
If I were to build another I'd definitely thin the aft lip of the ailerons. I'd also buy a set of turned brass cannons. Getting the two part plastic components round and filled was too much fuss. 
 
For a kit assembler like me this Airfix product is nigh on perfect. 
Plaudits to them for giving us a very good representation of one of the most popular marques of Spitfire. 
 
Thanks for your time. I hope you enjoyed this. 
If you'd like a more in depth article please have a look here for the WIP thread. 
 
Cheers,
Guy
 

Well done!
May I post it on the website?

@LSP_Ray, thank you. 
Yes, please do. It will be a thrill to see it posted on the website. 
Let me know if you'd like more images. I took a bunch but didn't want to bore people.
I still have the original colour versions of the b+w pics for example. 
 
Cheers,
Guy
 
 

OK - I know I have a lot of other things going on - but I've wanted to do a model of this subject since the '80s - and this will be a relatively 'quick-build' conversion using some test prints from our very own Tim Perry - aka @wunwinglow
 

 
Please note THESE ARE TEST PRINTs and the purpose of the build is to trial the conversion and give any necessary feedback to Tim.
 
Tim has kindly agreed to let me share the test build here - but please note these are not 'production' items yet, or a complete set - and Tim is still to decide if/how he wants to market these - so please don't hassle him just yet!! 
 
However, please feel free to chip in with feedback/thoughts/interest in this thread so that Tim can evaluate response.
 
I know he's spent a lot of time on these perfecting the shapes in Rhino - and printing using two technologies, using the benefits of each to maximum effect.
 

 
I'll post some more detailed images over the weekend, but the larger parts are printed in HIPS (so fully compatible with normal kit plastic) using FDM machines.  Detail parts are printed using the far more expensive, but far higher resolution, SLA resin process. 2250 Tanks are vacced in female moulds using a very clever process that results in the best vac quality I've seen.
 
Parts breakdown etc. may vary from what you see here if they become commercially available.
 
Colour scheme on this one - I'm still pondering - but leaning towards 23, or 25 Squadrons at present.
 
Will start cutting up one of the spare Revell kits at the weekend - and have a few detail parts on the way in the post.
 
Photo below is Tim's 'test mule' using earlier versions of his parts that he's kindly lent me for comparison/reference:
 

 
Blue skies!
 
Iain

As Thierry mentioned, I've addressed the area in front of the cockpit on my build of Bit O'Lace - currently parked whilst I address the side windows - and decide weather to address the outer nacelle positions.
 
 

 

 

 

 
EDIT: Just realised I'd already posted near the beginning of this thread - must be an age thing...
 
Blue skies...
 
Iain

This is a placeholder for now - I've got other things to finish first, but since the GB runs through December I should have plenty of time.  I've had this kit of an attractive silvery French aeroplane in the stash for a while, so it's time it got built.
 

Back on the bench - going to try and take a run at it over next few weeks...
 

 
Tally ho...
 
Iain
 
 

Have been busy working on classic cars, motorcycles and aeroplanes of late - but, with the nights drawing in here, I've been back to the bench.
 
A little side-track from working on the interior: I wanted to see how the fitting of the wing spars/gear bays and initial ribs would go, as the instructions are very clear about not gluing anything until you have all of this loosely fitted.
 
The instructions then have you carefully bonding everything in place on the lower wing moulding in one go - being careful not to impart any warp in the lower wing.
 

 
The 'wheel' sections of the undercarriage bays were assembled and bonded to their adjacent rib, before laying everything in place (including main spar) on the lower wing and checking fit.
 
All good, so I bonded everything in place with 'Quick Drying' Tamiya Extra Thin solvent - working out from the wing centreline on each side.
 

 
Whilst everything drying I wanted to check everything was correctly aligned, so removed the upper-wing sections from their sprue and dry-fitted in situ.
 
Fit against the lower wing/wing internals was very good, so happy that the internal structure was straight.
 

 
And I couldn't resist a quick dry fit with the fuselage - just to see something a little 'Spitfire' shaped...
 

 

 
Back soon...
 
Iain

Hi all,
 
In further sidetracking news I've been asked to build in a scale I haven't played with since I was a child - 1:24th.
 
And from a manufacturer who's kits I built in my youth - but that was a loooong time ago.
 
The gentleman I've built the Two-seater Spit IX from the Tamiya kit in 1:32 for has asked me to build one of the new Airfix kits for him - with minimal changes this time - and, well, why not!
 
Only planned changes at this stage are the Airscale Cockpit Interior and Sutton Harness with, perhaps, some aftermarket decals - we'll see!
 
Opening salvo has been some work on the cockpit - nicely rendered by Airfix in my humble opinion.
 
Still early days - and still at almost blank canvas stage, but I'll try and post some semi-regular updates here.
 

 

 
I'm not worrying about the ejector-pin marks - I really don't think they'll be seen!
 

 
And dry fitted in place:
 

 

 
More when there's more I guess...
 
Tally Ho!
 
Iain
 
 
 

…although, to be fair, an IM kit of a beast that big would be pricey too…