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ScanmanDan

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ScanmanDan last won the day on December 29 2014

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About ScanmanDan

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  • Birthday 06/17/1962

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    Melbourne

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  1. Driver finished for the little Krupp. He came out better than I had any hope for. Thanks for looking in.
  2. Hi Hardcore - I use a two step dry brush of GamesWorkshop Mitral Silver and Chainmail silver with a rub of graphite once its all dry. IHTH Messing about; As I never plan anything and so I have to mess about until I stumble into something I like. I built this building base a while ago but could get any of my projects to fit it properly. Every vehicle was too big to look right in the scene. The little Krupp looks okay though and I like the composition better. I have some figures to go foreground left but I think this works well. What do you think?
  3. Thank you for sharing, John. It's always wonderful to see your work. What a stunning 262 you have built. Your cheerful and enthusiastic manner are refreshing and your superb craftsmanship and great ideas are a real inspiration. I hope you have enjoyed the build as much as I have been following along.
  4. Interesting feedback gentlemen. I have only used talc at room atmosphere pressure and have had better results so maybe the benefits are swamped out by the advantages of casting under pressure. As for reduced mould life, I only run a mould maybe a dozen times over it's life and use very benign materials. In my experience I don't see a reducing in mould life. It's great to see all the different points of view coming together in one place, thanks.
  5. Thanks Eric, I hadn't though of Supercheapauto but that makes sense. If only we had something like Harbour Freight in Oz Last time I was in the States I picked up a adjustable magnetic holder for my dial gauge for $15 on sale. But I then had to lug it home I could of filled my luggage if SWMBO hadn't been with me. Can I ask what kind of shop cut your thick Perspex for you?
  6. Thank you Jimbo and Harold for your passing on your experience and advise. There is much to unpack in your replies. All of your folks comments have been very helpful in formulating a plan to move forwards. First , save a bit more cash. Isn't that always a good starting point? Next I'm going to work a bit harder to be more tidy and thoughtful in basic mould construction/ design and casting. Adding talc are already part of my SOP but I haven't used mould releases as of yet. Venting of the mould is still new to me and seems a bit of a black art. Sometimes it works well and other times it's a disaster. I do tend to arrange my two part moulds so the pour sprue feeds to the bottom of the part and that has helped reduce trapped bubbles. I find that just the way you orientate the part in the mould and where you place the seam line plays a great role in reducing casting problems. Additionally I'm looking farther afield to source my materials and hardware. I have also looked at dragooning a more competent friend in to help modify a pressure pot. Thanks agin for all the ideas.
  7. Sadly the A380 concept was not found to suit the needs of airlines today. It is a great plane to fly in and I have always thought it a marvel of design and execution. There are simply not enough destinations with the distance and volume of passenger to that warrant such large aircraft. I'm pretty sure that many said much the same of the 747 when it appeared on the scene. Coupled with the design limits and decision not to make a cargo version ( double decking a cargo version would be an 'interesting' design challenge. ) further limited the aircraft. Airbus risked a lot to bring the A380 into existence and had it paid off we would have seen them flying for a long time. We are getting to the point of optimisation of the design of jet transports. That's why the all look startlingly the same. Unless companies try something well outside the accepted norm then all the data points to identical solutions. I still marvel at just how efficient long haul air travel is. I can get a return ticket Melbourne - LA for about what I paid for my first trip in 1979. I wish I could buy that cherry 1970 Chevelle for the same 1979 amount ( I had to chose between the two in 1979) So farewell to new build A380's. Fly one if you can as they are a pretty neat bird.
  8. For the chips I used Vallejo yellow primer with the chips in their German camo dark brown. The washes are in Rubber Black and Brown Tamiya enamels thinned with Humbrol thinners. Oh and some deep blue and brown Humbrol enamels add in too. IHTH
  9. A toon Sturmtiger would be too cool for school! Meanwhile...Paint! Final weathering will have to wait until I get to the groundwork. Thanks for looking in.
  10. Another week of doodling about. I want to add a little german field kitchen to a little vignette I want to build so I busted out the Hauler resin. Hauler make a lot of very nice accessories and conversion sets in 1/48 scale. I built this one OOB but left off some of the tiny PE bits as they drive me nuts and I just want to have a bit of fun. Not too much to show for the weekend but I did pick up a 1/48 scale Horch truck too. Thanks for looking in.
  11. If the old Mk 1 finger is too big I like to use one of those silicon clay shapers( the ones that look like paint brushes but have silicon tips instead of bristles) to rub the graphite on to more defined spots. They work a treat! Coming along great so far. I think this will be a smashing success! Dan
  12. Hey Mark - I have been told that best practise was to make the mould under exactly the same conditions you intended to cast the mould. Now to my mind that makes some sense but what do I know? Whether it is strictly necessary is another matter, though if you didn't degas the silicon wouldn't the pressure try and crush the bubbles left in the mould? Your milage may vary What's the feedback from those that cast a lot? Please take this next bit in the spirit it's intended- Most Americans have no idea what basic materials and equipment costs in other parts of the world. Please don't advise me to look around for a cheaper supplier because they don't exist in Australia. We pay prices much higher for almost everything. As a transplanted Yank it's taken years to get used to but that is the way of the world. I constantly chuckle when Americans complain about high prices. Most haven't a clue what the world price may be. ( And why should they know as the market supples them well whereas we tend to look overseas a lot to source stuff. We have to, it ain't in the shops round here ) Americans have access to a wide range of goods from multiple sources whereas I often either have one supplier or have to go to an overseas supplier and pay a substantial amount for shipping. My point in bringing up pricing was that I need to spend a fair bit more than say someone in the US to go to this next level and to do so maybe out of reach if both setups were needed. As I said at the beginning this is neither a dig at Americans lack of knowledge nor Australian higher prices just a fact of life to be contended with. Thanks for adding your insights and advise it's been most helpful. I'm going to mull everything over and see what I can afford both in time and cash. Chek - Interesting life you have lead.
  13. Thanks Wayne. I have always thought the Model Expo folks have been grand and ever so helpful so I'm sure they will get back to me when they can. I will participate but I just don't get any kick from the competition part of the weekend. I hope to see many models there and will do my level best to promote the show. Dan
  14. Interesting thoughts, thanks. I haven't heard back from the ModelExpo staff, not surprising in that it is an all volunteer group, but I don't think that you can display in category an out of contest model. I think I will do what I can within the dedicated 1/48 scale forums to drum up interest and see if I can beat the bushes to get as many folks to bring along models to the show. More models is always better.
  15. Interesting thoughts gentlemen, Thank you all. I was aware that the best way forward was vacuum degassing of the mould material and then pouring the mould and setting it under pressure. Casting after degassing the resin and then setting under pressure but.... Lets look at cost. At present I have spent about $350 AUS to set myself up casting; Resin, Pinkysil mould material, digital scale and all the other bits and pieces. With this I can pretty confidently pull a decent casting( even if I have to make a couple of moulds because I'm still learning and casting is a 50-50 lottery) To add a vacuum pump of decent quality is another say $300-400 AUS and a pressure pot and compressor combo a bit more. Now that's a fair bit of cash to splash about for only a few castings a year. I'm not prepared or skilled enough at this stage to make anything like at paint pot pressure tank. I don't have access to Harbour Freight without an international airline ticket so.... I'm pretty much left with buying off the shelf. It would appear that unless I want to commit some serious cash to stepping up to the next level I'm going to have to perhaps practice the basic craft of mould making ( Not such a bad thing as I do very much enjoy casting parts :) )
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