Jump to content

mhorina

LSP_Members
  • Posts

    666
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by mhorina

  1. Would be interested in the 32nd ones.Please let me know when available. Mike Horina
  2. It appears to me that not all have closely looked at the Hase 109F- 2/4 kits closely enough. The engine cover, cowling, is in 3 pieces. Starboard fuselage has the lower engine cover molded on, the top of the engine cover is a separate piece, which is ok for all 'F' kits except the Galland Special, the port fuselage is molded to accept a insert for the lower cowling for part tree 'M' which has the intake flange molded in to accept part tree 'F' which is the air intake.The kits of the F-2 and F-4 'Jabo' and the 'Galland Special have part trees 'F' and 'M' . The 'Galland Special has a alternate top engine cover. Part tree 'Q'. The F-4 kits have only part trees 'L' port engine cover and 'G' air intake. All these kits have the same lower oil intake and prop blades . The air filters are in all the kits,2 different, solid and perforated, on part tree 'Y' HTH Mike Horina
  3. Big USAF on wings may be a theater marking during the Korean War to easily identify US aircraft. Migs only had stars but Sabres and Migs both had swept back wings. Only my opinion .
  4. Tony's explanation probably accurate for the wing center section on account that's where the fuel tanks where located. Mike Horina
  5. Harold, PM with order sent Mike Horina
  6. Rog, Only problem why you can't just add the guns is the lower wing has none of the ejection slots or shape for the different panels that have the ejection slots on/in the gun panel. This release is mainly to build a ground support machine. Of course if you rob a Hase kit of its lower gun panels and the proper rack for a drop tank you then could use all the bombs and thier racks for the Revell to make a Hase 190A-8 kit into a 190 F-8 Mike Horina
  7. These are just what I see and are only my opinions. Not an expert but have been modelling for a while. I think because of the size of the real cockpit and its viewing opening this has the best kit provided190 cockpit interior. The 2 different sliding canopies both opened and closed are very nice. However in my kit the windscreen does not appear to have a frame on the bottom or its very weakly molded.The fuselage vents while opened are too thick, the opening therefore too narrow and 2 on the port side are almost flashed over on my kit. The lower wing piece while mostly a shinny appearance has a panel on each lower wing with a flat appearing finish. While not visually showing an uneven surface, when you run your fingers from one end of the lower wing part to the other you can feel a height difference at both lower gun panels also the finish seems different and that flat finished looking panel is on the outboard side of each gun panel which has no openings. This leads me to believe another variant with outboard guns will probably be another release as the barrels for the outboard 20 and/or 30 mm cannon are present but mark not for use. The upper wing /fuselage gun panel bulge appears to me to be to narrow/long or not to my liking either way. Parts are scattered all over, like the sprue with the stand for the aircraft has a fuselage side panel molded on it. There are 3 sets of covers for the landing gear. The typical Revell box is the size of 2 Hase 190 boxes, but longer and deeper about the same width. Mike Horina
  8. For using thin CA, use the needle as explained, the caps from most US breweries bottle beer have a liner I use these caps to put a drop or 3 in, depending on how many or how much CA is poured it usually allows enough time to apply 3 or 4 drops from the needle before it starts to harden in the cap. Pitch the cap and use the lighter to clean the needle . Make sure you flick the thin CA spout before you put the cap on it, I usually wipe the CA tip with a paper towel before putting the tip cover back on. Mike Horina
  9. Jerry, Try a piece of sprue under the cockpit to push the fuselage and wing fairings out a touch. This should eliminate a large gap. Mike Horina
  10. Thierry, Thank you. I found the pictures very informative and probably will be useful in the future. I found the pictures to be very helpful in understanding why/how it would be better to modify the kit part instead of using a part for another kit. Again ,thank you. Mike Horina
  11. Thierry, Yes I'd like to see, 'it is possible to improve noticeably the part' I take it you would show correcting the Trumpeter part? Thanks in advance, I'd be very interested in seeing this. Mike Horina
  12. Thierry, I used the Amur resin front end on my Revell 109G-6 kit. These are the best resin AM parts I have ever used, the fit was excellent. I also have the 2 gun cowling parts from Alley Kat resin set for the Revell G-6 kit. Do you think the Alley Kat parts would fit any of the Trumpeter G kits? Thanks for any thoughts on this. Mike Horina .
  13. HLJ re-release of Hasegawa 32nd big tail 190D-9 for under $30 Try this link http;//hlj.com/product/HSG08240/Air Mike Horina
  14. Hey Jay, You mentioned the front section of the canopy is too narrow, I was wondering do you think Trump used their generic 109 canopy part instead of doing another for the wide cowl bulges of the G-10/K. I think you mentioned you had spare Hase kit parts, maybe you could try the front canopy parts from the Hase G-10/K kits. Nice work your did on the cockpit rear decking, thanks for sharing. Mike Horina
  15. Mine arrived today Sat 11/22/14 from HLJ. I'm in the US Illinois Mike Horina
  16. Or the assembly point may have run out of '76'. Mike Horina
  17. Kev, Still cannot copy and paste. Tried to copy words in this discussion and it wouldn't paste.
  18. But Jennings you posted in the earlier post about the Amur Reaver cowlings. That led me to ask if it was a different Erla G-10 cowling.
  19. Hi Nick, Since this thread started out about a Erla G-10 cowling I thought Jennings had something other than the Alley Cat AM cowling. And yes I know about the Amur Reaver cowlings as I posted about them here on LSP when I got mine. Thanks for clarifying Jennings post for me. Boris is correct . See my post of Oct 2. Can't copy and paste with my IE sorry Mike Horina
  20. Jennings, Is that the Alley Cat Erla cowling or some other ? Mike Horina
  21. Hey Steve or anyone else, It seems to me like the engine cowling of the G-10 Erla on the left(port) side has a slight flare out just above the exhaust and that the actual exhaust shield is a separate piece separate from the cowling itself. Those Amur resin G-6 cowlings have this flair on both sides but its my opinion that ,that is wrong for the G-6 cowlings which have the port (left) exhaust shield as the lower edge of the cowling. Has anyone else noticed this? Mike Horina
  22. Hi Gunnar, I have used the A2Zee G10 Erla gun cover and their's has the flatter area at the rear, but I think it is a tad wider than the kit part. I did not like the way they did CWSD on the starboard side. I drilled out the A2Zee part and the Revell piece and inserted my own part along with removing most of the panel lines on the A2Zee and Revell hose. I think the very front of the top needs some work to make it look more raised. I would like to see another gun cover with more areas correct than what was done on the A2Zee replacement. It is in my opinion better then the Revell, but more corrections could be done. Your last picture may have a distortion it seems to be much to high on the rear side on the starboard side. Mike Horina
  23. Rog, Not that i'm aware of. The A2Zee has a good corrected Erla G-10 cowl. Only problem is you have to buy it in a corrected set like what they did at first for the Revell G-6 kit. They then sold those cowlings as stand alone parts. This is not how they are selling the Erla G-10 cowling though. I wish they would, I used it and I thought it came out very good. Mike Horina
×
×
  • Create New...