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Everything posted by OldTroll

  1. Tomek, if you have not already done so you might consider getting the laser-cut frames for this model. Virtually all lamination calls for 0.5 mm material and the wing ribs are very thin with a 0.5 mm slot in each one for the wing "spar." I tried another Orlik model with similar ribs and was unable to consistently cut them out without damage. The laser frames give the builder a fighting chance (although the wings are still quite flimsy until skinned.) I suspect that GPM and/or Paper Model Store may sell them. With the skill you have already demonstrated on your P-39 build you may not need
  2. OldTroll

    SW CR.32

    That is a sharp color scheme! Is that a light grey or bare metal or both? I was sorely tempted by this one on the group buy but the Heinkel won out. Maybe later...
  3. I have this one in my stack also. Looking forward to your build as a learning experience!
  4. Initial check of the major components shows them to be dead on with the Windsock Mini Datafile drawings (enlarged to 1/32.) The components are crisply molded, virtually bubble-free and are of a cream colored, easily carved/sanded resin. I am quite pleased with the quality. Now to get busy working up drawings for the fuselage interior.
  5. Feel free to pinch the pic. The model just showed up at Squadron.com a couple days ago. Nice crisp molds, very carefully packaged and a pretty good set of assembly instructions. Both tailplane configurations are included and the decals look to be of good quality. I pulled my dusty Windsock Mini Datafile out to see what might be done in the way of increased (interior) detail. It should be a fun build.
  6. Since this is my first participation in a Group Build here I thought I would start small. Mr. FEDEX just left this at my door today. Now I have something to play with until the Silver Wings delivery.
  7. Thank you, Edgar! Apparently it is the post-war change that had me confused. I believe I have my RGB values sorted out now.
  8. Looking for a little assist from 1939-1945 RAF experts. Are the colors Trainer Yellow and ID Yellow (roundels, wing leading edges) two different colors or one and the same. What research I have done seems to support the two color theory with Trainer Yellow being a more lemon yellow shade and the ID Yellow having a more orange-yellow look. I would appreciate any help.
  9. Doug - please add one wheeled Heinkel He51 to my 2 Glads and 1 Hart. Thanks!
  10. You are making us paper modelers very proud! Those cockpit fiddly bits look super to me...keep up the beautiful crafting!
  11. Thank you for this opportunity to express our wishes.
  12. Brilliant techniques. I look forward to your reports on this ambitious build.
  13. Beautiful model and great photography - the perfect combination!
  14. Spotted three new sets of decals for the Albatros D.V and D.Va. Set 30013 is natural wood D.Vs, set 30014 is camouflaged D.Vs and set 30017 is black-fuselaged D.Vas. Let's see, 16 x $59.00...my wife is not going to like that!
  15. Flycatcher! Both with and without floats. Please... A few more "dream machines"... Avro Bison Blackburn Blackburn Fairey IID Fairey IIIF Hawker Nimrod Thanks for any 1930's RAF or FAA aircraft in 1/32!!
  16. Doug, I will commit for two Gladiator I/IIs and one Hawker Hart. Shipping to 23608. Please invoice me via PayPal (oldtroll at verizon dot net) if that is acceptable. If not, contact me at that same e-mail address and we can arrange payment by other means.
  17. Other than noting that the lozenge colors on the WNW website are "brighter" than the actual decals, I will not join the fray on what the "right" colors are. The WNW colors fall within the acceptable range for my modeling purposes as do the 1/32 Pheon products I have purchased. I believe that the majority of the researchers have done excellent work in producing their PERSONAL interpretations of some bio-degradable material nearly 100 years old whose extant actual samples had been subjected to sun, wind, oil, gasoline, mud, dirt, engine exhaust, cordite and bird droppings. It is almost certai
  18. Stunning model! The engine is absolutely gorgeous. I have a couple of these that are waiting for Pheon resin fuselages. I hope I can can produce models as good-looking as this one.
  19. Which Pup kit is it? The RFC or RNAS version?
  20. I discovered a small omission in the instructions. On page 7, step 5, the upper two diagrams: The location of piece A27 (looks like a coat hanger with the hook straightened) is not shown. The bottom corners attach to F11 and F12 for aircraft ACDE and to F12 and F6 for option B. The top corner attaches to brace A6. A27 provides support to the forward edge of piece F13 (see p9, step 7 where A27 can be seen just behind the engine.) I have passed this info on to WNW and it should appear in their errata soon. EDITED CONTENT - this errata is already posted there. Guess I should have check
  21. If it's not already too late, just a couple hints based on my mistakes... 1. The assembly sequence for the control stick is to glue the PE part to the stick then attach the wheel. I had to pull the wheel off after realizing that the PE has to be in place first. 2. No matter how tempting it may seem, do not attach the float assembly until the very end. Once it is in place (even without glue) it makes the model awkward to handle and increases the chance of damage. How do I know that? Don't ask... Thanks for letting us know about the Vallejo wood grain. I've ordered some from THe
  22. Try Fire Mountain Gems for beading supplies including various wires in very useful sizes. I imagine most of the beading supply houses carry various brands. Accu-Flex is what I have used in the past.
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