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Everything posted by fozzy

  1. Hi everyone So the wings have finally been constructed!!!! It took me longer than expected due to the shape of them but finally finished them yesterday 48 ribs had to be cut and shaped separately out of balsa wood.This is what took most of the time.When I was happy with the ribs I cut out of hard wood the 2 main Spars and placed them into position on the plans.The ribs were then placed and glued into position against the main spars. This was then left overnight to dry. The next day I took blocks of Balsa wood and glued them to the ribs and sanded them down to make the Leading and Trailing edges. Finally both of the wings were gently sanded down making sure that the shape stayed perfect. I only have one photo of the construction but here you see that the wings are complete. The next stage I am really looking forward to.....cockpit construction!!!!
  2. Hi guys Still working on wings at the moment so as soon as they are constructed I will post. I have to say that I am looking forward to the cockpit construction more than these blasted wings!!! cheers Fozzy
  3. So that's the undercarriage finished. The next episode will be the construction of the wings. happy modelling Cheers Fozzy
  4. The undercarriage probably took me about three days to complete and here are some photos of the undercarriage in a dry run fit to the fuselage.
  5. 8. Finally a hole had to be cut out of the bottom of each spat, deep enough to take the wheels. See photos.
  6. 7. The next photo shows the materials used to make the wheels and tyres. The wheels and tyres were made like so.... The wheel hub was cut out of balsa wood with a plastic card cut to shape showing the hub detail and glued in place. The tyre was replicated out of electrical cable. Note that in the photos I have only done the part of the wheel that will show out of the spats. See photos.
  7. 5. Panel lines were then dealt with. I found that gluing the panels into position rather than scribing them was easier because marking balsa wood is difficult and it looks untidy. The panels were made of thin plastic card. 6. To make the landing lights located at the front of the spats I first drilled a hole of the required size, sanded the hole smooth and then painted inside the hole matt black. A piece of sticky-back chrome silver paper was then placed at the back of the hole. The head of a plastic cocktail stick was then cut off and glued onto the chrome paper. With the black background the chrome paper shines through the clear plastic of the cocktail stick making it look like a real lamp. The last job is to simply cut out a circular lens glass out of the clear packaging and glue it over the hole with a rim of plastic card on the outer edge..... And that's the landing lights done! See photo.
  8. 4. The fairings were then glued to the wheel spats with wood glue by placing the leg fairing notch into a prepared slot on the spats (Try saying that when you have had one too many .........Any gaps at the join were then dealt with using filler and sanded down when dry.The whole assembly was then given the treatment of PVC glue diluted with water and Johnsons Klear. See photo's
  9. So this is how I put it all together........................ 1. With the use of the plan I first cut a block of Balsa wood and shaped with sand paper the wheel spats as usual constantly checking the shape of each spat with the plan.A bit of patience is required here as the shape is awkward!! 2.I measured the length of each undercarriage leg and by laminating pieces of hard wood together to just over the thickness required, I then started to sand the shape of the leg fairings. 3.Now the leg fairings had to have a notch cut out of the top and bottom so that it could be glued into a slot on the fuselage and wheel spats at a later stage. see photo 2.......
  10. For those of you who are still interested!!!!............. Hi guys I was going to continue to scratch build the cockpit interior but I thought I would first have a go at the awkward undercarriage. I have been putting it off because looking at the real aircraft the shape of the wheel spats are going to be difficult to shape!!.I decided the easiest way to shape the wheel spats was to use Balsa wood and the leg fairings have to be strong to take the weight of the model so I used hard wood. This first photo shows all the materials used to scratch build the undercarriage.............Plastic card,Balsa wood,hard wood,plastic cocktail stick,sticky back chrome silver paper and a piece of food packaging clear plastic!!
  11. Hi Rob!! Afraid not old chap!More blessed family hear from the UK but as soon as they have taken off ...then its back to the drawing board!! What are you up to in your mancave? Fozzy
  12. Hi Ole Just to confirm that I'm not going mad.............1:30 scale is as large as my cabinet will take for a Lysander,and I wanted it big!!...so I chose the biggest I could do...1:30!...but your right ...............1:32 would have been smaller!!!!...
  13. Hi everyone - thanks for all your positive comments. I suppose I picked the 1/30 scale because I recently built a Sopwith Camel in this scale and liked the results and also the Lysander is such a fat chunky aeroplane - that having it just that bit larger - shows up its chunkiness - any bigger and it would not have fitted in my workshop display cabinet!!! I have got my son coming to visit me tomorrow in sunny Bulgaria so I will probably be banned from my workshop for the next week! Will continue with this project asap. Cheers Fozzy
  14. ...last photo chaps....Next posting will be starting to construct the cockpit area!!!.... bye for now...Fozzy
  15. ...sorry but cant seem to put more than one pic per post and I have down sized!!
  16. I hope this is not boring for you!! 10.Using Milliput I made an exhaust ring which fits on the inside of the front end of the cowl....this was smoothed out with a wet finger! 11.Now comes the hard part.....I now glued the engine and backplate complete inside the cowl,making sure the engine seen from the front is lined up and squared away!!...I always find this difficult as its all line of sight....so no beers before hand!!...checking all the time the alignment as it's drying and placing a make shift prop shaft into the hole and looking at it from all angles...I think you get the picture!!!...Any way I hope I got it right else the prop will spin unevenly..........Leave it all to dry and go tell the wife all the problems you got with your Mercury Engine!!...see what response you get!! 12.The oil cooler intakes made from insulation cable were put into position on the front of the cowl previously so its on with the exhaust pipes. 13.I cut 18 exhaust pipes to size using once again my favourite modeling material.....electric cable!!...and carefully or should I say pains takingly glued one end onto the top of each cylinder and the other end onto the exhaust ring,fiddly job but will look good when all is finished....well maybe.... 14.The last job is to cut out of thicker garden twine wire the rods that support the exhaust ring in place. Obviously I painted parts after each section of the build. .......................................................and that my friends is that!!....here's some pics...........................
  17. 3. Next the 9 cylinders were cut to size out of a childrens plastic hand held flag pole....no expense spared!! 4.Next I wrapped the green garden twine wire halfway up each cylinder. 5.Followed by the top half being wrapped with telephone single cable wire. 6.Each of the 9 cylinders were then super glued to the engine block 7.Another block of Balsa wood was then sanded to shape the Crankcase and then I attached strips of plastic card to the front and rear and carefully placed little blobs of PVC glue to replicate bolts! 8.I then super glued the engine block to the rear plate............Working out exactly where the centre of the crankcase was I carefully drilled a hole through the crankcase through to the back plate.This would later take the Prop shaft. 9.The 9 Push rods were made out of garden twine wire and super glued into position...........see photo
  18. Here's how I did it.............. 1.First I made an engine back plate out of plastic card(this was simply the diameter of the cowl cut out of the plastic card). 2.With the block of Balsa I made the engine block taken from a template of the plan.This was sanded to shape......see my crude templates!
  19. Hi once again chaps Here comes the good bit.....Replicating the 890hp Mercury xII 9 Cylinder air cooled radial engine. Reference material for this build was taken from a fantastic book from a series called ORANGE SERIES and its the WESTLAND LYSANDER by JAMES KIGHTLY. I find that as long as you have good reference pictures,a bit of imagination and patience then you can replicate anything!!! The 1st photo shows the entire materials I used to build the engine.To complete the build I think it took me about 3 days.
  20. Oil cooler intakes were replicated by 2 pieces of stripped electrical wire and super glued into position. The Carburettor intake was sanded to shape out of a piece block Balsa wood and the exhaust was made out of stripped electrical wire cut to shape.The cowl flaps are plastic card cut to shape and super glued into position. When the cowl was completed it was then given the treatment of pvc glue and Johnsons Klear and then undercoated with Humbrol grey. The next job to do is to construct the Mercury Engine......This is one of the parts of the project Im looking forward to!.I love the challenge.............when constructed will post again cheers Fozzy
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