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About flyboy9994

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  • Birthday 12/29/1962

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  • Location
    Jeanerette, LA
  • Interests
    Models and Harleys
  1. Hey John Thanks for the tip. I was thinking the same exact thing about the seat for sure. Way too far forward and I wish I would have caught it earlier. I glued it in pretty good and already closed up the fuse but I think I can get it leaned back as suggested. Your Mustang looks fantastic. Great inspiration to get mine done. Thanks again John. Randy
  2. Unbelievable! By far one of the most realistic dioramas Iv'e ever seen. Great work! Randy
  3. A good day at the bench. Got a few things accomplished. Not super detailed by any means but progressing nicely. Fuselage went together well. The wings were pretty warped but came out OK in the end but wing to fuselage fit is going to be a definite challenge. Also tried PE seat belts for the first time ever. Used the ones that came with the kit. Kinda cheesy looking but good practice.
  4. Sweet! Iv'e been wanting to see a build of this kit. Looking forward to it... Randy
  5. Thanks jrh... Guess I'll pull the trigger on the JU-88 then. Especially if it's anywhere as good as the HE-111 Also, kids are long gone and furniture is overrated anyway!!
  6. Think I may have found the answer. This is from military modeler website: "Revell USA is releasing the Revell Of Germany ( RoG ) 1/32 Ju-88 and 1/32 He111 in their own boxing. By the looks of it there is one extra decal set but no other word on any other changes if any. So if you see the Ju-88 with the product code 85-5986 or the He111 with 85-5628 then that’s why." Kinda apprehensive about Revell USA. I remember the crap I used to build as a kid...
  7. Got a question about these Revell kits. I understand Revell Germany came out with a 1/32 JU-88 "Battle of Britain" version that was supposed to be awesome. Now there is a 1/32 JU-88 kit that was released in Jan 2012 but I think it's from Revell USA. Is there a difference between these kits?? Is this kit anywhere near as good as the new HE-111? Thanks. Randy
  8. Hey Mark Did you shave the nuts/bolts from the tank roadwheels and transfer them to the engine or did you take a mold of a roadwheel and cast them in resin?? They look fantastic!! Thanks. Randy
  9. Sounds good Mark. Unbelievable good work and an inspiration. Looking forward to more progress for sure.
  10. Thanks for the reply Cpig I believe your right about the numerous different greens and it seems as if any combination will be correct. I have noticed a few models using the yellow chromate in the engine bay and wheel wells with a darker green chromate in the cockpit. I kinda like that look and may do that with my Tamiya. Going to hit it again in the a.m. More pics to come. Randy
  11. Not really into space stuff but would definitely buy this. Was a kiddo when all the moon stuff was going on and I remember the LEM big time. Yes here for sure...
  12. Thanks Kevin Just seems brighter than most of the builds Iv'e been watching. No problem as it's there to stay!!
  13. Well... Mixed up the green as per Tamiya and it looks like chromate for sure. Very bright but I used it anyway. Got a few things done on day 1. Started like this at 9:00 a.m. Ended the day with engine done, some painting and started cockpit. Really not sure about the green but it's there to stay...
  14. Hey all. Started my 1/32 Dragon Blue Nose today and am following the color callouts in the Tamiya directions since I pretty much use Tamiya for averything anyway. Is the Yellow/Green mix at 2:1 working OK? (2 parts F3 flat yellow to 1 part F5 flat green) Concerning the tank behind the engine mounted on firewall: Tamiya calls for the yellow/green mix mentioned above but I have seen zinc chromate and a bright gloss yellow. Any thoughts? Not too concerned with historical accuracy but would like to be close. Building Pettie 2nd blue nose. Thanks Randy P.S. Dragon color callouts in this kit almost non-existent... They make a much better armor kit!!
  15. Got some coffee down... Time to hit the bench!! Pics later
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