JeffH

C'mon in Rick. P-38 Party 

It's a P-38 Party

Beautiful job Yves. The nose on that kit is a bear to work with but you got it and the weathering is spot on

Beautiful job on the trolley. It looks like wood to me.

A few caveats to the paint schemes discussed:
 
During the all-red interior craze of '44, you only had to deal with zimmerit for the first month (September). Other than that the red was generally confined to below sponson height and Elfenbein above.
 
However, the G2 went into production around December/January at the end of 1944 so you have only about two months of no dealing with zimmerit -- but this is completely inside the 'all-red interior' window. The only way you can accurately depict a G1 with an Elfenbein interior is to also apply zimmerit. If you want the Hinterhalt-Tarnüng camo (ambush) you only have August 1944 as your production window, or again you're all-red. From what I can tell, the kit does not do molded-on zimmerit like Dragon has done. Do they offer the decals for it or are you going to DIY?
 
So long story short: If you don't want it all red, try zimmerit instead. If you want your outside slick, get used to the color of brick. An ambush frees you from one or the other, but not both.
 

The short answer, was that red primer only applies to vehicles made between September 1944 and sometime in late December 1944, Bryden's notes say late 1944.  So if you don't like red primer there is a pretty good window to build without it.  Unless you absolutely determine the vehicle your are modeling was manufactured during that specific three months and are determined to be dead on to the build date accurate there is room to bring ivory white back into your build.
 
I took German in college but was really bad at it and it is long forgotten so I have no idea how to say in German:  “I can’t see a ___ing thing in hear, paint this ___ing thing something other than red inside.”

Hi Jeff,
 
Here's a good article to lay some of the foundation for interior coloring for you.
 
The interior definitely wasn't simply all red oxide primer; it's German!  It's (needlessly) way more complicated than that!  
 

 
http://byrden.com/panzers/Colours/index.html

The number of German tanks with primer red interior were small, they tried it late in the war and although in a hurry to build, etc, they found the Red primer interior was a bad idea and quit doing that quickly.  So you probably can forgo the primer red all over if you wish.  Lower portion might have remained red then interior white for the fighting compartment something along those lines.  There is good research out there on what the options are.  
 
Some German tanks are great for doing an interior and I think this is one of them. 

Just received this. I may or mat not turn this into a build thread but at the moment I'm having enough difficulty getting to the bench to work on my P-38. 
 
I did take a quick look in the box and it looks about the same sort of thing as the other 2 in my pile (Panther, King Tiger)  but this one at least has shells and racks as separate pieces. I'm going to 
have to stock up on the Tamiya Red Oxide primer 
 

 
 

Looks great. Good job!

I want to thank those who shared in this build with me. 
 
I took the photos shortly after sun down as an experiment and decided I liked them enough to use them in this RFI.
 

 

 

 

 

 
 

 

 
I really enjoyed this build despite the inaccuracies of this ancient kit.  AFAIK, there are only two photos of the bird out there.  So, I've extrapolated a bit and borrowed from others to reach this point.  My goal when mixing colors is more about the relationship between the colors than it is about being faithful to a paint chip.
 
The larger markings are all masks, some of which were given to me by another LSP'er.  The stencils were all from a Trumpeter donor kit and behaved well.
 
As with all models, there is always more that could be done, but then there is a time to move on.
 
Thanks for looking!
 
Gaz
 
 
 

Yeah, it's my favorite Axis tank, always loved the wedge shape and the Panther wheels (2nd favorite Axis AFV). I have zero refs so will have to use the box and pics in the 
instructions for color refs. I'm not sure there's anything definitive anyway. If you go looking for King Tiger interior pictures there are plenty. But most of the color shots are restorations
and they all look different.  

Just received this. I may or mat not turn this into a build thread but at the moment I'm having enough difficulty getting to the bench to work on my P-38. 
 
I did take a quick look in the box and it looks about the same sort of thing as the other 2 in my pile (Panther, King Tiger)  but this one at least has shells and racks as separate pieces. I'm going to 
have to stock up on the Tamiya Red Oxide primer 
 

 
 

Thanks guys. Slowly picking away at the PE there's the canopy latches and masks applied. This piece has actually been painted but I don't have a picture yet
 

 
You have to get inventive on this kit for where you place weight to get the nose down. The engines end up being hidden but since they help line the props up I decided ti build them as an exercise _and_ to add weight. I added some lead fishing weights in the engine block gap and I noticed this dead space at the back of each engine (bell crank housing in a car engine). I took some fine lead solder and scrunched it up to fill the space
 

 
 
T
These guys are starting to feel like they have a bit of weight in your hand. I'm looking for more spots forward of the CoG
 
Plodding forward. Having trouble with my airbrush but it's self-inflicted. I let it get gunked up and it hasn't been the same since

Thanks for looking in guys. I assume this plane doesn't get built a lot because the NMF scares people off. There are no
O/D options for an L without back-dating. And back-dating would involve hacking the nacelle intakes (at least). So it's left to 
fearless (mindless?) sorts like myself and the gods like Chuck to have at it.  
 
Here are some shots of progress so far
 
My LHS no longer stocks Alclad and I did not have anything chrome-like on my shelf. The LHS now carries Vallejo so I slapped
the drop tanks together, blasted a coat of Tamiya TS-14 (thanks Chuck!) then Vallejo Chrome and this is what I ended up with. Close enough for 
government work I figure; and it's all I have without resorting to (gulp) foil.  
 

 
Here's the modified gun bay bulkhead
 

 
Cockpit rear deck (radio) area. Trimmed according to Eduard instructions. That brass bulkhead at the rear is larger than the plastic area it is covering. I'm
expecting it to cause a fit issue later on but it's on my radar. 
 

 
Eduard Instrument panel. Toggle switches...are you freaking kidding me? I lost about 3 banks of them to the ether. There's one on there. I don't know why I 
bother with this stuff. In theory it's neat but the instructions are vague and it takes a bit of technique, a couple of critical tools and a whole lot of
patience. The patience is sadly lacking on my part. But it doesn't look bad from 3 feet and it will be well hidden (I hope) 
 

 
Magazine for the 20mm cannon. This thing is a pain in the ass too. Eduard gives you flat(!?) 20mm shells to feed in there somehow. This guy is going out 
empty
 

 
Radio gear for the rear deck and replacements for the kit rudder pedals. 
 

 
The .50 cal and 20mm
 

 
And the ammo cans. 
 

 
That is most of the Eduard interior set.  
 
Thanks for following along. Happy New Year everybody!

Just received this. I may or mat not turn this into a build thread but at the moment I'm having enough difficulty getting to the bench to work on my P-38. 
 
I did take a quick look in the box and it looks about the same sort of thing as the other 2 in my pile (Panther, King Tiger)  but this one at least has shells and racks as separate pieces. I'm going to 
have to stock up on the Tamiya Red Oxide primer 
 

 
 

Thanks guys
 
There's not a lot of space in the nose gear area because of the gun detail. But I just noticed the ammo cans have a bit of space to hide some more lead solder and that will be
right in the nose

Just received this. I may or mat not turn this into a build thread but at the moment I'm having enough difficulty getting to the bench to work on my P-38. 
 
I did take a quick look in the box and it looks about the same sort of thing as the other 2 in my pile (Panther, King Tiger)  but this one at least has shells and racks as separate pieces. I'm going to 
have to stock up on the Tamiya Red Oxide primer 
 

 
 

This is the scheme I'm going to try and recreate. It'll test my airbrush skills for sure!
 
Cheers,
Wolf
 

That's a shame. If you were closer you could perhaps borrow some of mine, as I've got a ton of stuff on the Jagdpanther.

I'm in with a Trumpeter P-38 in Tom McGuire Markings (Pudgy V), Using the Big ED set (parts that I don't break or lose totally)
 

 
I've already made a small start, beginning with the interior PE set. When there's a lot of PE I tend to approach it from 2 directions. I go through the PE instructions
looking for kit part numbers. Then I just mark PE on that part on the instruction sheet as a reminder.  Then I go through the PE sets hacking up the kit pieces as need be. 
 
When all the PE is done I proceed with the kit. So these first few posts will just show kit parts with PE
 
Let the fun begin
 

Thanks guys. Slowly picking away at the PE there's the canopy latches and masks applied. This piece has actually been painted but I don't have a picture yet
 

 
You have to get inventive on this kit for where you place weight to get the nose down. The engines end up being hidden but since they help line the props up I decided ti build them as an exercise _and_ to add weight. I added some lead fishing weights in the engine block gap and I noticed this dead space at the back of each engine (bell crank housing in a car engine). I took some fine lead solder and scrunched it up to fill the space
 

 
 
T
These guys are starting to feel like they have a bit of weight in your hand. I'm looking for more spots forward of the CoG
 
Plodding forward. Having trouble with my airbrush but it's self-inflicted. I let it get gunked up and it hasn't been the same since

Thanks guys. Slowly picking away at the PE there's the canopy latches and masks applied. This piece has actually been painted but I don't have a picture yet
 

 
You have to get inventive on this kit for where you place weight to get the nose down. The engines end up being hidden but since they help line the props up I decided ti build them as an exercise _and_ to add weight. I added some lead fishing weights in the engine block gap and I noticed this dead space at the back of each engine (bell crank housing in a car engine). I took some fine lead solder and scrunched it up to fill the space
 

 
 
T
These guys are starting to feel like they have a bit of weight in your hand. I'm looking for more spots forward of the CoG
 
Plodding forward. Having trouble with my airbrush but it's self-inflicted. I let it get gunked up and it hasn't been the same since

The trick is not to lose it when the tweezers go 'ping' and switches fly off. Then I'm thinking screw it, I still have the nice little colored front plate...ping argh!!!!
 
We need some sort of 'cone of silence' when working with this stuff. Maybe I'm not that far out...some sort of mosquito netting or some such draped over
you like a tent. Anything that flies will stay in tent.....hmmmm 

Thanks guys. Slowly picking away at the PE there's the canopy latches and masks applied. This piece has actually been painted but I don't have a picture yet
 

 
You have to get inventive on this kit for where you place weight to get the nose down. The engines end up being hidden but since they help line the props up I decided ti build them as an exercise _and_ to add weight. I added some lead fishing weights in the engine block gap and I noticed this dead space at the back of each engine (bell crank housing in a car engine). I took some fine lead solder and scrunched it up to fill the space
 

 
 
T
These guys are starting to feel like they have a bit of weight in your hand. I'm looking for more spots forward of the CoG
 
Plodding forward. Having trouble with my airbrush but it's self-inflicted. I let it get gunked up and it hasn't been the same since