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Sabre F-86

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Everything posted by Sabre F-86

  1. I think I may be able to help you. I have a Tomy kit which Im going to modify to a Rufe one day. So the Sakai specific decals are useless to me. Let me check them and if they are good you can have them. Email me with your snail mail address. Sabre
  2. Lee, thats coming along fantastic. With a prime coat on her its looking very nice indeed. Have you anymore photos? Sabre PS I'm even more interested if you do produce a kit of sorts.
  3. Yes, it would be a long thin wedge shaped piece, pointy at the inboard end, and the width of the correction at the wing tip end. It will require filling and sanding of the panel lines, rivets and possible reworking of the aileron bays and flap bays. Of course the question is really "how much off is it, and is it worth the aggrevation to fix?" Personally I haven't taken a scale to the model and my drawings to verify the tip width. Most of the models I've seen look just fine with the wing the way it is. I however am still annoyed with the "eviscerated look" of the hobbycraft kit and the slightly less so appearance of the trump kit. The wing certainly needs to be dropped so the belly line is smooth. By dropping the LE by 1/8 this can be done. The Boobycraft kit was so bad that a 5/16 drop was needed. I presented the wedge fix as an option if someone really wants to fix it. It may also be possible to use the Revell E wing on the trump fuselage, but I've never even gone to look at that possiblity. Assuming that the revell wing is the proper planform. I'm also wondering what Steve meant by " the leading edge profile is off ". I assume he means the airfoil shape at the leading edge is too thin because the wing is too thin? Steve, could you clarify this for me? Sabre
  4. I think the reason for that was the long term trauma caused by looking at the 1/48th Hobbycraft P-40 made people look with a less jaundiced if not completely blind eye at the trump kit, whose faults are not nearly so glaring. I know I was waiting in anticipation of the HC kit and damn near cried when I saw the first one up close n personal. I also looked at the Trump kit and missed the wing problem. All I really saw was the pygmy cockpit. Sabre
  5. I had one out on my bench the other day, checking out the mispositioned wing. I don't think its actually as bad as 1/4 inch. I placed a couple of pieces of 1/8 square stock in the gap by the fillet, and taped it in place. The rear of the belly bulge caused the trailing edge to sind about a 32nd to 3/64s which will have to be corrected but that appears to line everything up. File off those funky spikes on the back end of the radiator housing and fair with milliput. I was thinking of filling the inside of the wing fillets in the fuselage with Milliput and then reworking the wing fillets down to the new wing surface. As for the trailing edge, I think that can be fixed by making one slice from inboard trailing edge to wing tip at its widest point on the upper surface and then installing a wedge. The lower surface will require a bit more jiggery pokery due to the flap bay. I wasn't aware of the leading edge being off. Dealing with the tips will again require milliput and my mill file. Sabre
  6. I just registered, got the confirmation and then went to the site to log in. It came up the forum is either missing or blocked, so I hit forum in the menu bar and got in no problem. That young lady is quite talented. Not to mention she looks like my cousin Ute! Sabre
  7. I'll go with the middle one as well. the lighting on the last one is off. The sun is going down behind the model, and the model has too much light on it from the opposite side. It would be much darker for that lighting condition. Also, one thing I'd like to mention is the height of the camera lens above ground. The first photo of the P-40 looks like it was taken from a raised work stand. Height of eye approx 10-12 scale feet, with a downward angle. This makes blending the back ground shot with the foreground diorama base very difficult. The next two shots are much lower, approx eye height of 8-10 scale feet. The angle is much more oblique, and the blending of fore and background is much better. I'd recommend lowering the camera a tad so the center of the lens is a scale 6 ft above ground. This may mean that your camera will have to be off the edge of the diorama. Give it a try and see what results. Sabre.
  8. Lee, it occures to me that you may get more milage out of the balsa molds if you were to paint it with epoxy and then wet sand them. It would harden up the surfaces to better withstand the process. So far your model is coming along just wonderfully. Keep it up. Sabre
  9. I hear ya. Seems lately my muse has left on walkabout. I just can't seem to get motivated to work on any model. I have an old airfix Hudson on the go for Hyperscale and even that OOB effort is at a stand still. I think I need a vacation. maybe I'll do Mexico in january. Sabre
  10. Ok, Im never going to join a group build again. This is the third time and its still progressing at a snails pace. My apologies gentlemen, It will get finished but I have no idea when. Sabre
  11. Yeh, I dug the parts box out from under my desk last week. I've been working on the wheel wells. Trying to make them look a bit more like the real deal, and have the base radius done with epoxy putty. But its not even so I'm working out how to make a radiused sanding ball about 3/8ths of an inch in diameter to allow a decent sanding job on the putty. I am planning on making a ball of epoxy putty and rolling it out to the diameter I need. Once its the right diameter I'll put it on a dowel and then give it a coat of CA. I have a box of 220 grit Aluminum oxide sand blasting medium from working on my boat and I'm going to roll the ball around in it. If it works I'll have a nice sanding tool and the wells will look fine. That slot on the port side wing has been moved, and its just about finished. A bit more fine sanding and the wing will be ready to prime. I've decided not to bother making up new flaps so the kit parts will have some detail added. The hole count will be off but whos going to notice? Sabre
  12. Ironwing, I just read this thread form end to end. This method of reworking the Revell/Hasegawa kit makes a good bit of sense. I've had the two kits sitting in the garage waiting to do, and I was originally planning on grafting the nose of the Has kit to the Revell kit. Looking at the work you've done, I'll go your route. My hats off to you. Sabre
  13. Lee, beautiful job so far. You are progressing much fast then my snales paced SBD. I look forward to the next photos. Sabre
  14. That is one impressive build. Ditto on the photography. Well done Sir! Sabre
  15. Excellent!!!! Thanks Sabre
  16. Here ya go: http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=16484. I should be able to make some progress on her again. Winters coming. Time to hide in the cave and produce stuff. Tks, Sabre
  17. Would there be any objection to my continuing the never ending Matchbox SBD for this GB? I figure its about 30-35% done. I haven't touched it all summer. Sabre
  18. Lee, would you be interested in knocking off an extra set of the vac parts? I'd love to do a Yak-38 in 32nd. Sabre
  19. I'd carve a piece of wood to fit inside the square tube first, to give it some support incase the dremel tool grabs as they sometimes do. Then use a cut off disk on the dremel to remove the square tube. Sabre
  20. Got a bit more done in the last few days, radiused the landing gear well with milliput (man that is nice stuff for this kinda work) and got the upper wing slot moved, and am now working on evening out the slot. Very fine sanding with very thin sanding sticks. Tedious but it will look like new very shortly. Got a coat of paint on the propellor, and will be adding some bolts to the hub next. Pics later. Right now I'm spending a lot of time on my big project: Just spent the last week and a half getting her polished up and ready for launch. Now I'm dealing with a busted furling gear and a fuel leak. That thumping noise you hear is me bouncing my head off the wall. Sabre
  21. Ok, thats it. No more group builds for me. I haven't touched a model in days, and just don't seem to have the time to do it very fast anymore. This is the second one I'm not getting done, so thats it. Sabre
  22. Been plugging along slowly, and the cockpit is coming together as more and more of the fiddly bits get bent to shape and stuck in place. Seems Eduard didn't want to do the full rear cockpit, so they made up the canvas cover that goes behind the radios and covers a lot of the detail at the forward end of the rear pit. Ok. Its canvas with zippers. Im going to stick some tissue paper to the brass, and maybe a flat strip of paper to add a bit of relief to the zipper areas. So far so good. I just discovered that the port side upper slot is out of whack by about an 1/8 of an inch. I couldn't figure out why my bits of tin wouldn't fit on that side while I was making up the slots themselves. So I measure it and sure enought its off. So I've cut out the slot, and am moving it forward into the proper position, then rescribing the panel line so its right. I'm also trying to make the wheel well look more like it should, hard part is coming up with a 1/4 inch radius fillet around the back half. I keep trying to build it up in putty, but thats a long process. More pics later. Oh yeh, the strike vote was 88.7% in favor of rejecting the last offer so things are "kinda" tense at work. We swear we will not walk, and the company swears that was the last offer, so what happens now is anyones guess. I suspect they will lock us out soon. They figure on saving $21.6 mil a week in wages if we go, but the cost in customers is going to be pretty bad. Sabre
  23. I read an article in several newspapers a number of years ago about the Canadian military having to spend over a million dollars each to repair the floor area in the crew lavatory on C-130s because of corrosion caused by bad aim. Urine eats aluminum like I eat a steak. Not only did it eat the floors, but the support structure and airframe structures under the lavatory. Nasty stuff. Sabre
  24. Hmmmmm. I just noticed that while Roberts gives you an cooling face to put into the nacelles, Rutmans cowling does not have any thing there. That bit will need to scratch built. Sabre
  25. Here are some photos of the Rutman set for the He-219. I've left the pics as large as they came out of the camera so you can see what you are getting. The pile of tiny brass rods on the lower right side are for the Antenna. The bases of these are cast white metal. As for the quality of the castings they are pretty much free of bubbles, mold seams or any thing else. The resin in my case (I've had this set for over 2 years now) is solid, no oily residue or flacking. The only flacking is from the waste material which is very thin, and easy to remove. Looking at the instructions, it appears there might be two pages, as part of it appears cut off. In that case I am missing one sheet, and will have to contact Jerry about it. I'd say anyone building the combat model should run, not walk to the post office and send the coin to Jerry. I also have a set for the DO-335, and the Ju-88 which are both every bit as good. Excellent value. Anyway, on to the pics. http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n121/ne...07-0778_IMG.jpg http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n121/ne...07-0777_IMG.jpg http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n121/ne...07-0776_IMG.jpg Hope this helps everyone. Sabre
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