PhilB

I was so full of dinner if anybody had given me a wack I'd have just thrown up on em!!!!
 
Ah well it was a bit like that but with quite a few "buggers" thrown in when I let go of it under tension with me tweezers!!!
 
Right, bit more progress, can see the light at the end of the tunnel now.
 
Comin' atcha!
 

 
Spinners are quite shiney atm but I've seen a few pics of TR33's on the ground and they all seemed to have shiney spinners!
Think I'll dull them down a bit later.
I added fasteners to the spinner edges using a beading tool.
I found I had to thin the edge of the spinners inside quite a bit to get a nice fit to the nacelles.
Props will get a drybrush later.
 
Used the Cammet pe intake mesh grills. Pretty tricky to bend the outside strip round the grille.
 

 
The pe mounting brackets are far too small and would leave the mesh right on the intake.
Mossies seem to have a gap behind the grille so I cut out the kit brackets from the plastic grilles and used those to get a gap.
 

 
Added some lightening to the top with a clearcoat with a few drops of light grey.
 

 
Bright sun is bleaching it out a bit but you get the idea.
Another pic:
 

 
The torpedo is ready to go on and I need to add a few dipoles here and there.
The next big job is to attach all the levers and connecting rods for the wingfolds.
 
Thanks for looking in.
 
Phil

Thanks for dropping by everybody and also for the kind words of support.
Andy, Silver cannons eh? Hmm might have a look further into that.
Graham, I've finished the other side this morning, much easier as I learnt my lessons from the first side.
As for beers its gonna be a biggo steak and a few beers in the local boozer this evening to try and get my mojo back level again!
Mark,
The elastic stuff was given to me by a friend a few years ago.
He got it as a free sample with a modelling mag many years ago.
What I have should last me quite a while but as Brian says once its gone I'll get some EZ Line.
It comes in 9" strips about 5mm wide and you peel off individual threads.
 

 
Its incredibly stretchy, one thread will go to about 3 feet and it doesn't have much tension so it wont bend aerial masts etc.
Under the macro it looks sort of oval shape.
 

 
Much better than sprue as if you knock a build it will bend rather than snap like sprue.
I would imagine it would be good for rigging bipes too.
 
I've finished up the other side.
Learnt a few lessons like threading the door rollers before putting them on, saves the keyhole surgery.
My scratched bracket and pulley started to come adrift so I applied ca and redrilled it and it came out ok.
 


 
Im going to try and get as much of the underside bits and pieces done so I can work safely on the top of the fuse.
 
Phil

Doing the exhaust staining was interesting.
Most of the pictures of mossies with unshrouded exhausts show a great blob of soot under the last few stacks and a big
sweep backwards.
All the pictures of TR33's show the blob starting clear of the rearmost stack.
I don't know if this has something to do with the extra grunt from the 4 bladed props or what.
Here's a pic of the real thing.
Can't remember where I got it so I'd better declare the fair use criteria applying on this one.
 

 
This one also has the extended carb intake scoops as I have done on mine.
 
I used a mix of black and dark brown chalk.
Not quite as dirty as the pic above but it will do for me.
 

 
I saw a picture on Anthony's build of a Kiwi FBVI that looked pretty clean but it still had oil streaks on the gear doors from the engine cowlings.
I used a damp cotton bud and a tiny touch of Tamiya oil stain to streak it back.
If you get too much on just work at it with clean damp buds until it looks right.
 
Going off to do the other set of gear doors and wiring.
Lovely.................................................................NOT!
 
Phil

Weathering of the lower surfaces.
I had to remember that this aircraft is from 1948 so it would be used but not abused.
I used the Pro Modeller((Flory as they are now)dark wash applied with a brush in streaks along the airflow and vertically on things like tanks that would sit there in the rain and drip taking dirt with it.
Best thing I can do really is to show before and after stuff.
 
Wings:
 


 
Doesn't help when the after photo is much lighter.
 
Another:
 

 
After letting the wash dry I remove it with a damp cotton bud in streaks to get the effect.
 
Inner wings:
 


 
Added some dirt from the Tamiya palettes near the wingfold joint and used the washes to give some contrast.
Bit o dirt round the door.
 

 
Underneath.
 

 
More in a minute.

Thanks for all the kind words gentlemen.
Matt,The gloss coat is MM enamel clear gloss and in this case I only did it where the decals were going.
I sealed them with flat coat as I weather with chalks and the Tamiya palettes so its better to have a flat coat to give the materials some grip.
A satin coat can have them sliding off.
Once done then you can gove a final coat of whatever texture you wish.
As regards the wingfolds its resin hooks that snap(I hope not!) onto the lugs so I'd rather only have to do it once at the end of the build!!!!!
 
Spent the whole morning doing the gear doors and the sprung wiring that the mossie has to close the doors.
The rear wires simply attach to the spings that I'd already made then onto the doors.
I used elastic type stuff which I use for aerial wires normally.
Its grey so it looks like dull steel cable, stretches to insane lengths and sticks immediately with ca.
Back end:
 

 
You will notice a touch of weathering which I'll come onto later.
The front end nearly drove me nuts.
Its a bit like learning knots in the scouts - Bunny comes up the hole, round the tree, smacks badger in the face then goes down the hole again.
 
Here's a pic:
 

The bracket and pulley on the back frame are scratchbuilt as they is not in the kit.
The wires are attached to the back of the front cross brace.
They go back to the pulley, cross over at the back then come back forward through the outer holes in the cross brace
round the rollers on the legs then into the rollers on the doors.
I drilled out the front door rollers and manged to pull the cord through, stretched it tight then secured with a drop of ca and cut off the excess.
Took me all morning and I've still got to do the other side!
 
Nother pic;
 

 
I've yet to attach the wire guards on the lower legs as I've got to repair them first as three out of the four were broken in the same place whilst still on the sprue.
Don't know why but the engine bearer frames were broken in the same place as well. Dunno if the sprues are under a lot of tension or what.
Back in a minute with some weathering.
 
Phil

Thanks for looking in Karl and Anthony and thank you both for the kind words.
 
Been working on the gear doors. These are the paragon jobs which are far better than the kit pieces.
They have been painted with Alclad Alu and given a dark enamel wash.
The bakelite rubbing plates have been painted enamel brown.
I've added some rubber sealing strips on the door edges.
I used some vinyl/rubbery string type stuff I got from an am car model place.
Tacked it on with spaced strips of tape then used thin ca to run along the joints.
Trimmed the ends up and its done.
These will be weathered with a bit of oily stuff inside and I'm going to do oil streaks on the outside.
 

 
Phil

Thanks for taking the trouble to go through the whole saga Ron, glad you like it.
 
Well Matt I agree with what Brian says and thanks for your kind words also.
 
Its a pretty wide subject all driven by our paranoia over the dreaded silvering!!!
I can't comment on how the acrylics side of the MM stuff performs as I'm a strictly enamel sort of bloke.
 
I do think we worry too much about getting a mirror like sheen to ensure no silvering. The trouble is there are so many variables as to how different makes of decals perform
so we go for the default setting of as smooth as possible.
 
The main paints are White Ensign enamels which are far better than Humbrol as regards drying time and finish which is a satin sheen.
Even using the most advanced roughness measuring device on the planet - mark I fingertip there is still a slight roughness which I remove by just a very light pass with a sponge sander.
In most cases this is good enough to prevent silvering especially using microsol/set but just to make sure I went with the MM clearcoats.
One thing that does puzzle me is using the same amount of prep for a solid decal. In most cases I will do those over smooth paint with no clearcoat base and haven't had a problem even with carrier film round the edge which you can often trim off before application.
 
As regards the question of how much to cover with a gloss coat its a matter of degree.
This is a huge model and only has decals in a few places so its not really sensible to coat the whole thing for the sake of it.
If I was doing a 1/32 109 wing then I may well do the whole wing for the walkway lines and crosses.
The MM lacquers seem to spray really thin. By sanding my paint beforehand it only needs a light gloss coat to get the shiney base for the decals.
If you were putting it on a matt coat without sanding then you would need a lot more then you may have paint build up.
I think it boils down to getting the base paint as smooth as possible by sanding or being an ace with the airbrush, then doing your gloss coats.
 
As regards the sealing in, it really depends on what your final goals are.
If I had already weathered the build after the decals and was just looking for the final finishing coat then you would use your desired finish as a sealer such as satin, satin/flat mix or plain flat depending on what you are trying to portray.
 
My personal view is that no aircraft is all flat or all satin or even all gloss unless straight out of the paint shop doors or a cosseted resto.
With this mosquito I want to bleach out the upper paint to give a lightened "sunburnt" tone.
I would love to be able to achieve this with an airbrush but I'm too hamfisted so I use chalks/weathering palettes etc. One of the things needed for chalks is a surface for them to grip on to. Even a smooth satin finish has them sliding off so thats why she will have a matt finish to the upper surfaces.
 
Here's a pic of the horizontal stab with three decals. I only coated with gloss where the decals were going but I sealed the whole stab with MM flat to get a consistent finish and a good surface for my weathering materials to grip on to.
 

 
The difficulty I will have is sealing light chalks with clearcoats as if applied too wet the light chalks tend to vanish but I will either mist on the final coat just to lightly seal them or overdo the lightening to allow for a little loss in the finishing stages.
 
Hope this makes sense of what I'm trying to achieve and how I go about it.
Just a personal thing and there are probably better ways of doing things but I'm comfy in my Future/Klear free world
and I do agree that using those products can tie you in to a restricted and narrow sequence of "must do's".
I'm intending to have an overall finish of flat in some areas and mixes of flat and satin in varying degrees in others so we'll see how that goes!
 
Phil

Thanks for looking in Mark and for the kind words.
 
Well here's something you don't see everyday, a Mosquito with a hook and some rocketree!
 

 
The ID light lenses have been brush painted with Tamiya clear acrylics.
The fuse has had a light wash with Pro Modeller dark wash though I'm mindfull that this is a post war Royal Navy
aircraft and they kept them pretty clean. I've dabbed on some Tamiya weathering palette oil stain and soot in a few places to bring out some detail.
 

 
I have no references for the colours of the RATO packs so the red blanking plates inside the nozzle may be fictitious but it adds a bit of colour.
I believe the packs were a one shot job? If so they would be fresh out of the stores so I will be carefull to make them look new.
 
Side view. I'll talk about the shiney patch on the fuse side in a mo.
 

 
I only use Klear/Future for glassware. My personal view is that there are far better alternatives to covering a model in floor polish.
So firstly I only prep those areas on the model where the decals are going.
This area has been sanded smooth and a couple of quick coats of Model Master gloss put on to give a base for the decals. It doesn't need to be super smooth
and the MM stuff is touch dry in a couple of minutes.
 

 
After applying the decals and letting them dry overnight, a quick coat of Model Master flat to seal and blend them in.
The flat is touch dry in seconds.
 

 
The other side.
 

 
Next job will be getting more weathering on and getting the gear doors on.
 
Phil

Stbd side came out pretty well. The mask for the roundel was tricky to get over the reinforcing rib.
I worked from the top down burnishing it on then worked it into the rib/fuse crevice before rolling it over the rib itself.
The "CW" denotes it as a Culdrose aircraft.
 

 
Bit of grief here on the port side.
I masked over the yellow after 24hrs but it may still have been a bit soft and some lifted when removed.
Strange as its an enamel/enamel bond.
Bit of a nuisance but I have fresh masks on the sheet and I'll just remask and repair it.
(and yes Tomek, my stubbies worked to repair the Royal Navy logo!)
 

 
Thought I'd share what I do with the paint after removing the masks.
Warning! its nasty Macro time.
 
First issue here is I am putting a very light colour over a very dark one.
This means a lot of paint to get the markings looking right.
I've mentioned previously what I call "paint lips". This is how I refer to the build up of paint at the edge of the mask which leaves a lip.
You can see various little "tags" and bits of paint that flake off and lie around after you remove the mask.
 

 
The thing next is to sand back the paint.
There may be people in this world who can paint with masks and have no need for further action on the paint but I'm not one of them!
 
I use a combination of fine sponge sanders including some fine foam pads I get from a car parts place for use in car bodywork.
Here's the result really close up.
 

 
Much smoother and it only takes a couple of light passes.
From a normal distance it looks nice and sharp.
 

 
I'm going to let the paint harden off for a few days especially as the fuse roundels have primer plus five different colours/layers on them.
Then I'll sand those back and get on with weathering.
 
Thanks for looking in.
 
Phil

That's very weird, I was watching the Canadian Grand Prix the other evening with my friend "amazement" who thought Jenson's charge from 21st place to win the race on the last lap was "amazing"!
 
My nutritionist works behind the bar of my local pub!
 
Thanks Matt, would of been a bit of a leveller seeing one of these coming at your ship at 400mph at zero feet!
 
Well the painting is close to a finish but then there's the weathering, torpedo, Rato, gear doors etc etc etc...............
 
Right pictures fresh from the masks.
 
Lower wings. The Tr33 had its roundels right out on the extremities of the wings.
 

 
Upper wings. These have had the blue and red tinted lighter as I'm going to fade out the dark grey on the topsides to give a bleached out look.
 

 
The difference.
 

 
May look a bit light but trust me I know what I'm doing! (havent got a clue actually, going to go with the flow!)
 
These are the warning panels over the radiator panels.
I went to remove one a bit early and got some chipping. I may actually leave it as is to give it a worn look.
 

 
Back in a minute with pics of the fuse markings.
 
Phil

It will be difficult as I'm normally plastered or stoned most of the time.
(BTW who is AWE?)
Seriously though its nothing that a wee brush and a steady chubby mit cannot fix.
 
I'm mostly painting the masks at the moment.
I wasn't going to show a blow by blow account as I've done that before in a previous build.
But I felt I needed to share this picture with you as it coincided with getting to the luminous pink section
in my post it note pad.
I think its very pretty.
 

Thanks for all the kind words fellas.
Hey Matty is that cartoon depicting you presenting the patient with the bill?
 
Democracy will rule regarding the wingfold colour, interior green it will be!
 
Just a quick pic of the serial I did yesterday.
This was a Montex mask. It shows the difficulties with masks this small that have letters with internal pieces that have to be left on such as "A"'s, "O"'s
and "R"'s. Its tricky to get these tiny pieces to stay on when you remove the main letter body before paint.
You can see here that the R will need a touch up as will the A's. I will also remove a couple of "tags" on the seven.
Not a big deal but it can be the nature of the beast.
 

 
Next job is to get the rest of the masks on and start painting.
 
Phil

Thanks for the kind words Mark and Keith.
 
Today I did the black codes and serials.
The conversion comes with a set of Montex masks for the serials and codes and extra roundels for the underwing.
It needs you then to use the kit decals for the rest of the roundels and fin flashes.
BUT we don't want to do that so I've got a set of Ad Astra 1/24 "C" roundels and fin flashes so they will be used instead of any decals.
Ian has also done me a set of masks for the large red warning crosses on the upper radiator panels. I went to a show recently and there were about 4 mossies there and all had silvering from the huge kit decal.
 
I had to sit down and work out the underwing codes on a plan as they are front to back on each wing and they are split due to the folding wings.
Its very confusing just making sure you don't balls it up.
Also I have a photo of a TR33 in flight without tanks and the codes were done with a gap so the tank wouldn't cover them up.
 
Anyway, here's the pics. The code of this beastie is TW270. The TW is outboard of the tanks and the 2 is on the outer wing. The 70 is on the stub on the aircraft. (I think I know what I mean!)
 
The inner wings.
 


 
Outer wings which may make sense of my drivel.
 

 
If you stand on your head with this photo it does match up to the "70's" on the inner wings.
The "2"'s have gone over the lights (which are still masked) slightly but there's no other way of doing it and getting them all lined up.
I'll get a picture of the fuse codes tomorrow as I'm waiting until they are fully dry before pulling out the centres of teeny "A"s and "O"s
 
Need to lie down now.
 
Phil

I'm having so much fun!!!!
Nick, thanks for dropping by and it is modelling in a really mega scale, think of what you need paint wise for a 1/32 and treble it!
 
Right, in order to keep that Out2gusher bloke quiet I DID paint the wings.
I have also unwrapped the thing so here's a few shots(indoor I'm afraid as its pouring down atm)
 
Wings:
 

 
I painted the top of the tanks the top fuse colour as I saw a pic of a Mossie done this way. Would make sense not to have two
light points when looking down over the sea, sorta defeats the camo idea really.
I will paint the front of the nacelles a dark colour so it looks better behind the spinners but this is very much a raw base paint state atm.
 

 

 
AND, the new weird masking tape seemed to work ok
 

 
I'm going to give it a light rub down with a sponge sanding pad to remove any fluff and make it nice and smooth then I'm going to start on the black codes on the undersurfaces and the fuse.
 
Phil

At least you haven't got a member of the Yankeez tribe moaning at you!
 
 
 
Nag nag nag!
 

 
Nag nag nag!
 

 
Nag nag nag nag nag!
Happy now?
 
I just reduced my stock of three tins of White Ensign Ex Dark Sea Grey by two!
Seemed much thinner in the tin than usual.
Anyway, this one's going to rest overnight before being de-frocked.
Might be able to start the masks tomorrow!
 
Phil

Thanks for the replies fellas!
Anthony, if ever you are in the Uk you will be welcome!
Peter, thanks for the nice words and thanks for a few extra decals that I used in the cockpit.
Doug, I haven't forgotten the old Revell, it sits there staring at me everyday.
At least by doing this one first I now have a much better idea what I should be doing with the little one!
 
I have done the Sky undersides.
It took a whole tin of White Ensign Sky plus a big slug of MM white to make up my preferred sky mix.
I think its probably about 20ml of paint plus another 20ml of thinner!
 
I spent the whole day yesterday masking the thing up so I can paint the Extra Dark Sea Grey today.
I use the cut off corners of plastic bags to bag up bits like the wheels in this case.
 

 
I'm going to do a hard demarcation on this one. Chris (Monty Python) sent me a pic of a TR33 with the nose cover off and you can clearly see the
border between the colours was taped up for painting.
At least it will save me a whole load of blue tac!
 
I got hold of some 3mm vinyl masking tape from my airbrush supplier.
Its low tack and very good at doing curves despite being 3mm.
Apparently its the stuff that the custom car guys(1/1 scale) use for pinstriping
Its the green stuff here.
 

 
Weird thing though is that it stinks of antiseptic.
TCP actually (the Uk fellas will know what I mean)
 
Got to go back over the canopy to stick down all those little "tabs" that appear.
 

 
Right! Out with Mr Infinity!
 
More pics later I hope!
 
Phil

More pe on the fuse.
On the wing is the strengthening plate for the other end of the wingfold bracing rod and on the side of the fuse is another tie down ring.
 

 
Got both of the nacelle top cowlings on. Bit tricky as both needed some 10thou shims on the inner sides
to get them to sit flush with the radiator cover panel.
Had to do a bit of sanding (which is still ongoing) to get them level at the front for a neat spinner join/gap.
Fit overall was pretty good and got some tight lines.
I've been filling some panel gaps with card up near the fuse join as the radiator panels
had a bit of a gap.
 

 
Starboard side was a bit short so I added a 10 thou card shim to the front to bring it level.
 

 
Been adding the mountings for the RATO packs.
If anyone is going to do this build beware that the holes for the A frame are shown as 10mm apart. Well they are once its in but the pins are
about 2mm long so a bit of adjustment was needed to get them to fit and its angle forwards as well but the pe does cover it up somewhat.
 

 
The square panel has a round latch will be added much later once the RATO's are on.
 
Current overall picture.
 
 

 
I've still got more filling and sanding to do before I mask it up and get some primer on.
Seems its 90% prep and 10% painting but thats modelling!!!
 
Phil

Thanks for looking in Peter, glad you have enjoyed the progress.
Tomek, can't claim any credit for the glass trick, I first saw that used by Don (Wrongway) on a Hurricane build but it really is neat and gives a green tinge through the glass.
 
 
Well Taff your wish is my command:
 
 

 

 
This was a little bit tricky to say the least.
You can see where I haven't painted a part of the inner framework. This was to get a good plastic to plastic adhesion (although I should say plastic to Klear)
This will not be seen once the outer frame is painted, likewise the barrel of the flare pistol.
I put in the bulged side window before attaching the canopy and used gators grip.
With hindsight it would have been easier to put the main canopy in then the side glass as it was the only place that needed a good squeeze.
Im very happy that the pit detail can still be seen clearly, thanks to a good dip in Klear (Needed a BIG bowl to dip it in!)
I covered the whole thing with tape and then tacked around with thin ca using capillary action.
This was to ensure I didn't get any ca on the canopy as I have had a really hard time with static with this kit making the ca fly off the applicator before it gets on the thing.
 
Next job is to mask it all up, fair in the seams and get a coat of black on so the internals of the frames come out the right colour.
 
Phil

Yup, Need a bigger house!
 
Thats what I say when I see YOUR builds mate!
 
Thanks Jerry although at various times in this build its been like being in Heartbreak Hotel. Uh Huh!
 
Thanks for the kind words Harv!
 
Yes Andy, just makes it more difficult and fragile to work on!!!!
 
Quick update today.
 
I had to finish off the bits and pieces in the cockpit so I could get the canopy on.
 
Installed the R1155 receiver instead of the T1154 transmitter that Airfix would have you do.
Research has showed that the 1154 was only installed in very early build numbers of the FBVI and certainly not in a TR33.
I used an Airscale decal for the dial and wired it up to the kit molded wires using some plastic coated wire.
 

 
The kit gunsight looked nothing like my references and seemed a bit small.
I added the grey padding from sanded rod.
The lens is an am lens sanded right down and polished.
The glass is a piece of clear plastic edged with Tamiya clear green.
The kit glass is rounded but my refs show a square one.
 

 
I've also painted the top of the "dashboard" black as a dry fit of the canopy showed it would be visible and it matches my internal canopy framing which I've also painted black.
 
I'll pluck up the courage to tackle that great big canopy tomorrow!
 
Phil

Thanks for the kind words Anthony and Taff.
Yesterday I spent 5 hours dropping in the flaps and coaxing in the nacelles.
At last I think I've probably broken the back of this build.
She's UP!
 
 

 
Slight crank on the picture but she sits nicely.
 

 
I prepainted the side cowlings to make the installation of the small vent just in front of the main opening easier.
These cowlings have been fixed in but the top cowlings have just been dry fitted and will need a bit of tlc but they are pretty close.
By painting the sides it means I can mask onto the whole cowling not the exhausts. I'm much happier putting tape on painted plastic rather than painted resin If I can avoid it.
 

 
The nacelles needed a fair bit of adjustment, mainly to get them to sit deep enough into the wing.
The flaps were a bit of a problem mainly due to the aftermarket resin lower outer wing panel.
This was always going to be an issue.
I had no intention of posing the flaps down so I cut out the joining piece that the nacelle sits on and it made it far easier to get a good fit with separate flaps.
As another indicator of size this thing measures 7" at the wingroot from leading edge to the flap trailing edge.
 

 
This is the fit on the inside so its Airfix to Airfix parts.
 

 
There is about a 1mm gap on the outer join which is Airfix nacelle meets Alleycat resin.
 

 
Considering the amount of work needed to get them in I'm pretty happy with the result.
Next job is to fit the top cowlings fill all the gaps underneath and on the top at the back of the nacelles then get on with the canopy.
 
Thanks for looking in.
 
Phil

Thanks for the honest opinion. You know how much I value your input.
Thanks to all the other gentlemen who replied too!
 
Today I am looking at the side cowlings for the nacelles.
Airfix have molded the fasteners in a rather big way.
Anthony very kindly sent me a photo of the real thing:
 

 
The bolts are held onto the cowling by a very thin retaining strap. At best guess I would say its probably about 20 thou metal.
I measured the Airfix fasteners and they scale up to about 1" thick, although I am aware of the limitations of plastic molding.
They have also molded them on the lower curved edge of each panel where there are actually only bolt heads.
I managed to get a set of the Cammett Pe for the intake grills and they have included replacement fasteners.
So this is what I have done.
 
I removed the molded fasteners and drilled in some 0.5mm rod which will be sanded back to make the bolt heads.
I used the scoops from the Paragon exhaust set.
The larger one is the spark plug cooling duct and the smaller is the fuel pump cooling duct. (Been reading the SAMI Aviation Guide again!)
I also cut a slot in front of the main opening for the cooling duct for the exhaust manifold flanges which is included in the Paragon upgrade and will be added later.
 

 
I then removed the rest of the fasteners and replaced them with the Cammett pe (I am still working on this so this another of the panels I've actually completed).
 

 
Quick squirt of Tammy primer.
 

 
I also have to replace the fasteners from the main nacelles as well so there's only about 65 more to do.
 
I sealed the exhaust stubs with MM flat and they are now installed.
 

 
Other side.
 

 
The next job on these will be to install the large resin shrouds around them and then get the side panels on and then finally mount the nacelles in the fuselage.
 
Thanks for looking.
 
Phil

Ah but wait until I get to the weathering stage my friend, mine's about as subtle as a housebrick in the face!
 
Progress toooday,
 
Got the nacelles together and chopped the front of the kit lower air scoop.
Big Alleycat scoop has been fixed in place and will be blended in with a touch of milliput.
Oh you can see my dirty mudguard in this shot.
Exciting eh?
 

 
Phil

Thanks to all you blokes for the kind words.
Unfortunately for the "hinge the door" posse, with the fuse sealed up there's just no way I can get in there to put any sort of hinges in so its fixed in but with the large canopy it should be pretty visible.
 
Taff, Yeah that undercarriage does look flimsy.
Having resin oleos is a bit of a bonus. After I'd lined everything up I went round all the joints dropping in thin ca.
I also gave the tops of the oleos some ca where they used to rotate before the gear went in so thats the main strength now (I hope!).
 
Bruce, thanks once again for your input.
I was aware of the problems on the cowling fasteners, luckily Anthony posted some great pictures in post #115 and I responded saying it would help me with those.
I also have the Paragon exhausts which come with scoops etc so I also have that area covered.
I wasn't aware of your reference material, indeed the side profile of the TR33 in the SAMI datafile still shows the side hatch so once again its plans and plans.
Its not something I can change now so I'll live with it.
It may be worth your while contacting Alleycat and advising them regarding the positioning of this hatch as mine is as per the instructions.
Thats interesting regarding your idea that the conversion cockpit gear is wrong, as I have a cockpit photo also and from mine the scope in the conversion looks about right but again, its nothing I can change so I'll have to move on.
 
The rest of the gear has gone in.
Tough time taking photos inside the wells but these will have to do.
 
Connected up the flexible hoses for the retraction jack:
 

 
Added the top brake hoses and splashed a bit of oily marks around the joints.
 

 
I've dirtied up the inside of the mudguard but couldn't get a decent shot.
 
Next job is to close up the nacelles and hack off the lower scoops.
 
Phil

This is one of the wheelwells as per the Airfix kit with the exception of the drilled out ribs:
and the new mounting cross brace for the retraction jack:
 

 
I've added quite a bit of plumbing and wiring and a junction box.
I've also added the brake pipe union just under the crossbrace under the tank to take the brake lines from the top of the gear legs:
 

 
Other side:
 

 
The tops of the wells have both been fitted so I can run the hydraulic lines from the retraction jack unions to the firewall:
 

 
Made the two springs on the rear walls which are use in the gear door retraction system:
 

 
Other side:
 

 
I'll run elastic rigging thread from the bottom of the springs to the gear doors at the end of the build.
 
I've also finished the door which is going to be closed because 1. I can't be arsed to mask up the doorway and 2. I'll snap it off the completed model anyway.
 

 
Next job is to put the rest of the gear bits and pieces in and connect up the retraction jack so I can then lock the gear down and close up the nacelles.
 
Phil

I've also added a small pulley to each side of the gear using card and a disc. This is for the gear door retraction wiring which is going to loop all over the place at the end of the build:
 

 
Having done the retraction jacks I need to sort out the mounting which is just a pin on the nacelle wall.
On the real thing the jack is mounted to a large tubular crossbrace which isn't in the kit so I made me own:
 

 
I sanded off the kit pin and put them in.
I have slid out the small brass pin and left it in situ so mounting will be just dropping in the jack and pushing in the pin.
I've drilled a hole in the opposite nacelle halves to take my new cross brace:
 

 
Closer lookie:
 

 
Back in a mo with more piccies.
 
Phil