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About kdeuser

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  • Birthday 08/11/1961

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    Suwanee, GA (Atlanta)
  1. Would love to see Tamiya do a 1/32 F4F or F6F. That would be sweet. Probably someone else has already chimed in with that, but I don't have the patience to flip through 39 pages.
  2. It was quite an adventure laying those big decals down!
  3. The early vs late comment got me thinking... I recall some difference among the "D" models with respect to the "chin" antenna. I believe some had the "C" radome with the same shape chin antenna, some had a radome like a "J" without any chin antenna and some later machines had someting with bumps all over it called a "herpes mod"? Corrections and clarifications from the experts?
  4. Personally, I would go with whatever is installed from the factory with a D-15. Given the "hand-me-down" status of this group, I would not assume anything else other than what you can confirm with pictures. Getting the basic airframe (ie a D-15) from pictures is probably as close as you are going to get unless someone has better info. You might try contacting the Tuskegee museum for more precise information on the plane/pilot you are modeling. The story of that group, however, is not the planes...it is the struggle of the men who trained, flew and maintained them just to get into combat. If the cockpit and gun sight are not exactly right I doubt anyone would notice or care. (shields up!). I have built a couple of their "C"'s in 1/48 and found the model itself anticlimactic after reading the books. Kurt
  5. In the Osprey book "332nd Fighter Group - Tuskegee Airmen", all of the color plates of "D's" (that could be identified with serial numbers) were P-51D "-15" series. The two aircraft identified as such were "Lollipoop II" and "Duchess Arlene". It would not be wrong to assume the others were also -15's unless someone has better info. The -15 can be made out of the box as there are very few external differences. All of the "D"s they flew, according to the profiles book, have the tail fillets. HTH, Kurt
  6. I have been holding off on building this kit waiting for the cast brass landing gear from G-Factor to (eventually) become available. It has been off the market for a while and I heard/read that it would eventually be available again once the guys who produce them had time to do another run. I got a notice from Sprue Bros yesterday that it is back in stock. (Expensive, but my laziness has no concept of value!) I can't imagine putting in the time and effort to build this kit only to see it sag on the shelf. I also do not have the patience (ok, skills) to scratch or modify such a complex part. Get it while you can! Kurt
  7. You might find this alignment jig useful to get the outer wings and stabs aligned at the correct angles. nautilusmodels.com The Eduard sets are useful as well.
  8. I used the Eduard Big Edition and it was nice (also easy). I also thought the kit wheels/tires were fine... Comparing the kit + Eduard PE to photographs it looks pretty close. The biggest omission was that it did not provide for any of the wiring behind the instrument panel. I have seen some great examples of scratched wiring in the landing gear bays/fuselage area that look fantastic and better than the P/E. IMO, unless you are fanatical, any resin is a marginal improvement over what a little PE, fine wire and evergreen can accomplish with this particular kit. The supplied seat belt p/e was pretty crude compared to the Eduard part (and photographs). You will probably need to scratch a gun sight no matter which a/m parts you get - I was not happy with any of them and this is very visible in the cockpit. Were I to do it all over again, I would probably forsake the big edition (unless I could get it on sale) for a cockpit only P/E set and scratch everything else. I forgot to put weight in until after I had painted the darn thing. I had to slice off a panel next to the nose bay and shove some in...then repair/re-scribe/re-paint! (duh!) If you are building a fighter (vs fighter/bomber), one thing I noticed in the Eduard set is that it includes a bomb release lever. I did not know this is what the part was for until later, and the aircraft I was modeling was a fighter. I am not so sure the pure fighters had this installed... It seems like I ran into a few other minor things like this in the process of working on the kit. Good Luck! Kurt
  9. 1/32 F-106 I find it surprising this has never been done in 1/32. The coolness factor is indisputable (which is enhanced with a Genie in the weapons bay).
  10. Mark - Yes it is sweet and it is Bar's plane! The color scheme is theoretically possible for an earlier production Me262 and was pointed out as such in a book on colors and markings for this particular plane. Even if the reference was wrong, this is without a doubt my favorite color scheme on a German plane from WWII. I think there are pictures of other planes in his unit with the green/green scheme, but I conveniently already had stocks of paint for the gray/green scheme! Martin, the colors for the interior of the fuselage will vary depending on when and where it was built. Pictures are rare, but those I could find showed natural metal with only the rivet lines sprayed with a gray (rlm02 I think) primer. The "heavily armed" versions were later-production IIRC from my reading, so silver is probably right. The tub itself I think was primed? BTW, those tabs on the tub and the sockets on the fuselage sides to mount the cockpit were not on the real thing. I removed them since they aren't really necessary and I found it easier to mount the cockpit without them. The cockpit attaches to bulkheads fore and aft, so I never understood why they are there to begin with? You'll see what I mean when you get there. No biggie as I don't exactly spend my nights peering into the wheel wells and openings of my completed kits (and don't do contests). I look forward to following your build as I've thought about building another one myself!
  11. ...and put some weight in the nose!!! I found out the hard way and had to cut a panel open, insert some weight, then glue-sand-scribe the panel! I also thought it was a nice kit, but all of the nose panels were fussy. Other than that, a lot of fun and it looks great with a big red "13" on my shelf!!! (Plus it was my first ever German a/c!)
  12. The F-14 is on Greatmodel's website at $155.20 US. This retail price is in line with their other 1/32 jets, considering the size and parts count. After several months it will likely be under $100 on E-Bay and places like LuckyModel.
  13. kdeuser

    Opp, Bolo

    Aerospace Modeler #7 has an article by Roger Jackson building the 1/48 scale Hasegawa kit with the markings of that plane for the mission on that day. He goes into detail about the markings, various decals offered, and is worth reading. Looks like the tail code is FP and the # is 37-680.
  14. I guess, were I to have a shelf full of 262's and one had tires slightly different than the other, I could barely manage to sleep at night. If anyone were to look at my models and tell me I had the wrong tires on my 1/32 Me 262 my wife would end up bailing me out of jail for kicking my guest in the rear so hard it knocked some teeth out. (I must be watching too many martial arts movies...) All said in good fun!!! KD
  15. OK...Here is the quote from the "Warbird Tech" book: "The early preproduction aircraft had 30.31x10.62 main tires and 25.59x5.90 nose tires. Later production aircraft used a 33.07x11.81 size for the main landing gear tires and a 25.98x6.30 size for the nose tires." So it appears the wider wheel/tire for the nose gear would be correct. I read somewhere that the nose wheel for the Me262 was the same as the main wheel for an Me 109. HTH, KD
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