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Bruce

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Everything posted by Bruce

  1. Bruce
    your 3rd run with the refined panel lines is looking good.
  2. Bruce
    The other neat thing was that I got a call one day from the pilot that flew it in Nam. He saw it in the museum and was floored that someone had chosen his a/c for the markings. I did the nose art markings by hand.
  3. Bruce
    I was commissioned to build a 1/32 Voodoo for the NASM several years ago(1986). I used the Combat models vacform as a starting point with all the interior stuff being scratchbuilt. Here is a link to a photo of it if you are interested. All the ground equipment was scratch built also. I have lots of photos of the actual photo bay if your are interested. https://airandspace.si.edu/collection-objects/model-static-mcdonnell-rf-101-voodoo/nasm_A19860071000
  4. Bruce
    easy fix for the rear cockpit is to separate the two , take a 1/8 inch off the top of the rear wall (following the existing shape) a take a 1/8 off the front wall where you separated the two halves and glue them back together. this will raise the rear cockpit and fix the location of the seat because the floor will be higher. From measurements of a real F-4, the Revell front cockpit from rail to console and console to floor is correct, the rear from rail to console is to low, but, console to floor is correct. If you just raise the seat, it throws off the relation of the seat to consoles and leaves a gap under the seat. Its no too late to make the cut of the cockpit. Bruce
  5. Bruce
    my build shows what i did to the intakes
  6. Bruce
    https://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?/topic/50304-f-4e-308th-tfs/#comment-563051
  7. Bruce
    here is a link to my build:
  8. Bruce
    I've built a couple of these kits. There are 3 major problems. 1. the canopy profile is off because the center section is a scale 2 inches low which throws it off(not much can be done there). 2. the intakes are too long, they need to have about 1/8 inch removed off the back edge. 3. and most important is the rear cockpit is too low, it needs to be raised about 1/8th inch. Put the seat in and see where the parachute pack is in relation to the canopy rail and compare it to pictures and you'll see the problem.
  9. Bruce
    The 3D printed KC-135 style wheels are done. There are pictures and information posted over on Iian's A-26K build for anyone interested. Bruce
  10. Bruce
    anyone interested should contact my friend Chuck Davenport at: charles davenport <bgdavenport@bellsouth.net> for details Bruce
  11. Bruce
    If anyone is interested in these tires let me know. I think he did a beautiful job. My photography doesn't do them justice. he even has the valve stem cast on the inner rim. How do I fix my problem with loading the pics? Bruce
  12. Bruce
    thanks
  13. Bruce
    here are links to 3 other pictures. I cant seem to load the pics http://partsrparts.homestead.com/A-26-2.html http://partsrparts.homestead.com/A-26-3.html http://partsrparts.homestead.com/A-26-4.html
  14. Bruce
    here is a link partsrparts.homestead.com/A-26-tire.html
  15. Bruce
    a friend and I recently took numerous and measurements of the KC-135 tires on a B-26. He is making cad drawings and is going to print the tires. If all goes well I'll try to pot pictures Bruce
  16. Bruce
    I recently took numerous photos and measurements of the KC-135 tire on a B-26. A friend is doing cad drawings and will print some tires. I'll post pics if they come out well Bruce
  17. Bruce
    I had a friend print the parts from the 3d file. they came out fine but the finished engine does not fit the inside of the kit cowling! Oh well, there are other engines available. Bruce
  18. Bruce
    the splinter scheme is a 1/32 P-51 from Hobbycraft with home made decals. The P-40N was a Hasegawa Special issue kit with all those decals Bruce
  19. Bruce
    Really looking good. this ac ended up in the Georgia Guard lost its "Turkey feathers" and got ACESII seats. Bruce
  20. Bruce
    It just hit me that the T.O. only shows one drawing for all 8 pylons, thus they are the same! Bruce
  21. Bruce
    I took a different approach on the wing. I cut right along the wing fillet panel line and removed that area then plugged the hole with 40 thou plastic. I took the wing root part that i removed and treated it like a vac form part sanding away the plastic until I had just a very thin edge of the wing fillet just like you would on the real aircraft. I'm going to move the wing root/fillet up to the proper location on the fuselage. I'll post pictures when i figure out how. anyone figure what prop is best to square off the tips use? Bruce
  22. Bruce
    John, heads up n the tailplanes for the Tamiya kit, they're small. If you can get your hands on a set from a Revell RF-4 they are the correct size. Tamiya's E model tailplanes are correct but not the C/D ones. I have access to an F-4 here at the Robins Museum of Aviation and have measured actual ones. Your build is looking good. Bruce
  23. Bruce
    It was a long time ago. I'm still only 30 minutes from the museum. They repainted the Connie last year. For the last 5 years I've been volunteering at the museum restoring a B-17G. I cleaned up and restored the engines.
  24. Bruce
    thanks, I'll let you know how I come out with the printing. BTW Iian, did you ever finish the Connie I sent you the pictures and such? Bruce
  25. Bruce
    any chance someone can send me a copy of the .stl files for the engines so I can get a set printed by a friend, or put me in touch with the owner of the .stl files.
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