Bill_S

Did anyone ever get one of their "wind your own electric motor" kits to work?

A little more progress today... ">http://

I'm building this one AOOB, with the addition of Barracudacals placard decals. These things are tiny - I've spent much time contorted over my work bench with a jeweler's loupe in one hand, and a small needle in the other... Still some small details to paint, and some dry brushing before the flat coat. ">http://

I found out the other day that 1/35 scale was developed by Tamiya for no other reason than to fit batteries into motorized tanks. Daft, indeed...

Try sending them - but instead of a phone number as the recipient, put in your email address. Once you've got them in email, you'll have to upload them to a host, per LSP guidelines. Good luck!

Excellent choice, Erwin! When I was younger, those 1/28 Revell kits were some of my favorites. I have the Dr1, Spad, and Camel in my stash. I'm pretty sure Revell issued the Dr1 in a light blue plastic, too - the picture on the box was of Werner Voss' plane.

I'd like to see an O2SU...

Thanks for the kinds words. I don't mean to hijack this thread, but from what I can tell, the folks at Z-M appear to have started their measurements from two different places. The mounting holes for the struts are in the right place if you start from the rear of the aircraft. I've seen remedies that hack approximately 5 mm from either the engine or the rearmost housing. All I did here was cut a step out and shorten the shaft - appropriate to my meager skills.. Once the skin is on, you can't see it.

Here's the modification I made to get the engine assembly to fit... ">http:// ">http://

I've used a product from Testor's called ELO (Easy Lift Off) to remove old paint and had very good results.

I had the same issue with the Shinden.

From the Tamiya USA website... If I have to place a parts replacement order what do I need to do? To allow our staff to process your order in a quick and efficient manner, it is extremely helpful when you are prepared with the part number that you are requesting. For R/C kits, the part numbers are located in the last few pages of the instruction manual. R/C kits have five and seven digit part numbers associated with them. Example: 53450 or 0005368. *Note: Many people often confuse the alphanumeric construction numbers, (MA4, MB17, etc.), with actual part numbers. Please use these numbers to find the five or seven-digit item number on the back page of you manual to expedite your order. For plastic model parts we first ask that you give us the item number of the kit. This number is located on the side of the box and in the front cover of the assembly manual. After giving our staff that item number, then we need to know the letter of the tree that you wish to purchase. Usually, plastic model kit parts trees are labeled A, B, C, D, E and so on. Top How does Customer Service sell plastic model parts? Customer Service sells plastic model parts by the entire part tree. As such, if you need A-16 and A-29, you will need to purchase the entire "A" tree. Top Does Customer Service sell every part to all plastic models? Unfortunately, all parts orders are subject to availability. While every effort is made to support our customers as thoroughly as possible, we do not have access to individual parts from the production facility, and some parts may not be available at the time of your call. Top How do I pay for my order? Tamiya America accepts all major credit cards and, in the event that you may not have one, we also accept money orders. All credit card orders must be placed over the telephone. For money orders, please include a letter explaining which parts you wish to purchase, your return address, and a daytime telephone number where you can be reached. In the event that the parts you requested are not available at the time your money order arrives, a credit check will be issued to return your funds. Top

On my glass nosed version, I fashioned a plug from plastic to fit just forward of the instrument panel, then used it to make a lead weight. I still had to put lead shot under the floor of the greenhouse, and I epoxied a couple of small sinkers as far forward in the nose gear compartment as well. You can't see any of it. FYI, HK provides what I think is a rear support, though the only reference to it is in the parts layout. It's clear part F7, and it's easy to miss...

Mike, I built this kit OOB, and enjoyed every minute of it. If and when ZM issues another kit that really interests me, I won't hesitate to buy their product. My engine assembly was almost 1/4 too long, and I've read elsewhere that others have had the same issue. If you haven't done so already, you should check...Your work thus far looks great!

This technology has actually been around for quite a while. Most any 3-D solid modeling program will let you output your model to the .stl or .obj files that this particular unit reads. I personally have found Solidworks and Autodesk's Inventor to be "fairly" intuitive.

http://technabob.com/blog/2012/09/20/makerbot-replicator-2-desktop-3d-printer/

Z-M has released a "new" version from an animated series in Japan. From it, you can build the original Shinden. I just got mine a week ago - a beautiful kit!

There were others as well. In addition to those listed by Charles: D-4 Spit Mk IIA "Borough of Lambeth / Lambest" NK*K D-5 Bf109-G6 JG77 8 of unknown color (I don't read Japanese) D-6 P40E Kitty Hawk Mk Ia D-7 Eagleston's P47D D-8 F4F-4 Wildcat D-9 P51B 9AF D-10 Ju87-B D-11 Bf-109F2

Chris, I'll bet that D520 will hold a special place now. Great job.

Michael, I don't know how long those wires are, but I have used a smooth-jawed machinists vise to compress steel wire flat. I got .030 (inch) diameter down to about .012 thick. You could try floral wire - it comes in long lengths, and is pretty cheap. You have to crank pretty hard on the vise handle to get it that thin. P.S. Welcome to the best modeling site on the web! Your "cousin"

The Eindecker (EIII) is a limited-run kit from BattleAxe. Squadron carries it, but it's a wee bit pricey... Fokker Eindecker

Just ordered mmy Rufe set! Pascal's email: apollo44@wannado.fr

Hooray! I finally heard back from Pascal. His message indicates that he watches this board, so keep after him.

I tried emailing Pascal a couple of weeks ago - have heard nothing... Pascal's A6M2

Try this link... Luftwaffe Experten Message Board