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Bill_S

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Everything posted by Bill_S

  1. That looks awesome! I'd be very interested to know what colors were used for the weathered wood.
  2. Wow. Very nice work, Mark!
  3. Mark, have you decided what markings you're going to use?
  4. I wonder how their Hinomaru red compares to Insignia red...
  5. A question for the experten: How do you deal with decals that meet at the trailing edge of a wing? I'm thinking WWI lozenge. Any tips would be appreciated!
  6. Mark, I've made a little progress; I got the cockpit into the fuselage, and joined the fuselage to the wing assembly. The seam on the belly was a bear; be forewarned! It's getting close, but still a lot of work to do. Brian, Being intimately familiar with the SB conversion, I can tell you what it includes: a plug for the tail in addition to plugs for the cannon gondolas that need to be sawed off (nothing is included to fill the wheel bays). Cowling, spinner and a couple of small tubes for the exhausts. All three floats are two piece (top and bottom) strut material for the outrigger floats (with fairings for the wing connection) and supports for the main float. A separate rudder for the main float is included as well. Casting is pretty crude by today's standards.
  7. The SB floats are two piece hollow affairs. I epoxied lead shot into the main float; I put the lower section of the main float on after I was sure she'd sit properly.
  8. I prime with Mr. Surfacer 1500 black. Don't forget to paint the inside of the main fuselage parts prior to assembling. Much can be seen through the openings for the main gear.
  9. Looks like a great project, but beware of those metal legs. They appear to be SAC, and I personally would opt for styrene parts over soft metal.
  10. A wide variety of sizes and styles on this sheet, Erwin. https://www.squadron.com/1-32-AeroMaster-Luftwaffe-Swastikas-AN32021-p/an32021.htm
  11. You can buy Tamiya-like tape in widths down to 0.4mm... https://hlj.com/product/AIZ00014/Sup
  12. Just today, I finished painting my N1K2-J for the third time. Mismatched paint that shows despite my (mild) color blindness. Screwed up decals. A wash that removed paint despite a lacquer gloss coat. At least I haven't lost any surface detail; I always remove paint chemically. Mr.Color thinner works great for that.
  13. Great work! And fast, too! Is there any chance you can get a length and maximum width on those lower gun blisters? I'm wondering if I can use them on another project...
  14. As I recall, that seam was a royal PITA, Erwin. Your build is looking very good; it's nice to see you back at the bench!
  15. I've found the Tamiya clear colors to be thicker than their other colors. You may want to increase the the thinner to paint ratio. As others have said, the Mr. Color products work very well with Tamiya acrylics; they're the only thing I use to thin them.
  16. I think it's just a typo, Kevin.
  17. I've used this set, and it's well worth the money. I did an LSP review a while back - here's the link: https://www.largescaleplanes.com/reviews/review.php?rid=1583 You can buy it here: http://www.brengun.cz/en-ww/e-shop/1-32-accessories-31/n1k2-j-shiden-kai-(hasegawa)-1099#!prettyPhoto
  18. I picked up a bottle of Model Master "Deep Yellow" enamel - it was in with their other Japanese colors. I've been pretty pleased with it.
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