Jump to content

geedubelyer

LSP_Members
  • Content Count

    2,441
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Everything posted by geedubelyer

  1. Hello gerarddu. I am looking forward to seeing your F-15E when you manage to find a suitable photo host. Choosing Photobucket was unlucky as they have recently changed their rules which preclude free third party hosting. Alternatives can be found easily by doing an internet search. Many are suggested in relevant threads here on LSP if that helps. Once you have selected your photo hosting website, upload your images there and use the links provided by your photo hosting site to add your pictures to this thread. Some will include a direct link specifically for forums so copy that and paste it into your text box. Good luck and best wishes, Cheers
  2. Hi Dieter, What an absolutely splendid model. Congratulations on an extremely convincing photo set. The combination of sunlight and things like the catch can, ladder, streamers and chocks make this indistinguishable from the real thing in many of your images. Thanks for taking the time to share such an excellent creation. This is right up my street. Bravo sir, Cheers.
  3. Kent, you have created an absolutely jaw-dropping diorama that is magnificently crafted and exquisite to see. Such a beautiful display that tells a wonderful tale. Each element looks superb. I am very, very impressed. Great job, well done. Would it be possible to ask for a couple of larger resolution images please? If so, I'll send you my e-mail addy via pm. Thanks for taking the time to share this fabulous creation, Cheers.
  4. Hi Brad, thanks for asking. Unfortunately I've nothing to declare as I have not touched this model since my last update. In fact, I have n't done any modelling at all and suspect that, sadly, I shall miss the deadline on this GB. I cannot muster any interest in the hobby right now so apologise to everyone for not getting involved more. Hopefully if (when) my mojo returns I will finish this sailplane and I'll post pics in RFI then. Cheers.
  5. It'll be worth a trip to Telford this autumn just to see this. Cracking work Peter. Cheers.
  6. Hi Kent, Thanks for taking time to explain your process. The images show exactly what you were hoping to achieve and you have succeeded. Well done. Cheers.
  7. What a delightful diorama Kent. It's a neat idea and well executed. Each model is lovely in it's own right but even better in this setting. I love the effect you've achieved on the bare metal wing tanks. It does look like real metal on my monitor. May I offer a small observation in the spirit of feedback? I like the tyre tracks from the accumulator trolley and the footprints in the snow but the edge of the snow to the roadway looks very uniform. There does n't appear to be any trace of snow on the roadway at all. (*Edit: scratch that. I'm an idiot and did n't look closely enough. I can see where you've dusted some snow toward the edge now that I've gone back to it, sorry.)If it has been swept would there be some patches of remaining snow deposit or wet where the snow has melted? Or perhaps a little where feet had carried it from the grass area. Additionally, the airframe appears to be sat on the snow rather than in it. I can't see any tyre tracks from the airframe if there was a deposit of snow under the aircraft when it parked. If the snow had fallen on the aircraft it could be less deep beneath the fuselage and wings perhaps? If it had fallen on the aircraft it may have been brushed off but it would then pile up on the ground at the trailing edge of the wings and tailplanes. Forgive me if I sound critical, I don't mean it to be. I've never used snow on a model so I'm not aware of it's properties or how easy it is to use. Perhaps the effects I've noticed may not be possible. This is nit-picking of course and should be taken lightly as it's of little consequence but I hope it may offer pause for thought going forward. Truth be told, the diorama looks great and that first shot could pass for real. I'd be happy if I could finish any of these models to this standard so thankyou for sharing them here, Cheers.
  8. The metal cowling panels look superb Max, great job and thanks for paving the way. I was considering doing the same when it comes time to build my Moth and you've shown it can be achieved. Nice one. I'll be shamelessly copying your technique in the (probably distant) future. Cheers.
  9. Oh boy! That is some seriously righteous modelling skill on display. Beautiful work bro' p.s. Take your time on the updates. I need a while to get over this awesomeness!
  10. Hello Peter, Your components all look uber realistic as we've come to expect. Beautiful work. Did you experiment with metal foil? I can see why you might attempt to use a micro cloth to provide texture but even in 1/18th scale I can't magine cloth weave would be particularly noticable? If you are still unhappy with your belts and if it's not too late, may I humbly suggest using the metal foil from around the neck of some wine bottles? Not the stiff, brittle type on screw neck bottles but rather the soft, pliable version on bottles with corks. On some bottles the metal is so soft it would wrap around ones finger if lightly tapped over an outstretched digit. That foil is ideal for using on seat belts. It can be easily cut into strips, it's thin enough to pass through buckles, it takes paint easily and can be posed in almost any position. Of course it is often smooth or has very little surface detail but perhaps that could be impressed into the paint using a suitable cloth? Alternatively, there are any number of (sometimes very ) soft metal foils available from various model stores and outlets if you don't mind spending a penny or two. Just a thought. Now, back to your regularly scheduled programming. Cheers.
  11. Great work Max. Your Tiggy is looking completely spiffing. Cheers
  12. Hi Chek, I hope you dive in and feel the joy of building a modern, state of the art model kit that the WNW items appear to be. Other modellers have drawn comparisons with Tamiya and there can be no higher endorsement than that. Having spent time adding extra detail to a Hobbycraft Camel in the past I'm very much looking foward to enjoying my first WNW kit when it arrives. Cheers.
  13. That is a superb reference image Chuck, thanks for posting that up. Glad you caught this subtle but neat detail. Cheers.
  14. Of course, thanks Ade. Will Italeri give us all versions I wonder? Cheers
  15. Hi Matt, Now that makes more sense. TBH it did seem odd that someone who took such meticulous care over getting the airframe weathering to perfection should skimp on the ordnance. Now that you've posted the close up I can see that you've applied exactly the same skill and thought to the munitions. Once again, great job. Cheers.
  16. Very nice finish Matt. I agree with other members that you nailed the weathering on the radome. I am also impressed by the grime on the aft area of the wingtanks and the soiling of the underside, particularly under the engines. Great job. It's a pleasure to see someone who thinks about how real aircraft weather. One item that does leap out a bit though is the ordnance. All of the bombs are exactly the same shade of green and uniformly painted. I may (probably am) wrong but I thought that these iron bombs were quite old and often stored outside so got pretty beaten up? Meant as more of an observation than criticism as I like your model very much. The crew look extremely natural and do indeed add life to the finished article. Since that it a first for you, great work. Cheers
  17. Hi Chuck, The nozzles look good so far. It is quite a challenge to get down inside the nozzle with an airbrush and replicate the staining seen on the real birds This is one area where the Flightpath etch has a definite advantage. Sure, it's a chore to assemble but each petal starts out individually. If layed flat on a strip of double sided tape they can be sprayed alongside each other to form the intricate stained patterns. Maybe on your next one eh? Edit* Hope to catch you before you begin the outer face of the nozzles. If you check out your reference images you may spot that the sawtooth shaped "teeth" of the outer face of each inner petal (phew! what a complicated description) are light in colour. It's a little detail that is generally either missed or skipped over by modellers but it can add alot of visual interest and busy up the area still more. Perhaps it might be possible to drizzle a light wash into those details? HTH
  18. You raise an interesting question Wolf. I suspect that the arrival of folk's kits may be the most probable reason. The UK and European allocation seems to have hitched a ride on a slow boat from China that's going the longest way around the globe.   Fairly sure the number of on-line builds will escalate in due course. Although not everyone's cup of tea, the Camel is generally a popular aeroplane with a great many schemes on offer.   I am very much looking forward to seeing how yours turns out.
  19. Looks good on my monitor. I like the tinted canopy and glazing parts plus the zig-zag masking will save alot of time. Conspicuous by their absence are markings for an RAF aircraft I expect aftermarket companies will cover that though. I'm probably behind the times but I thought the UK was a contributor to the programme? This aircraft is growing on me the more I see videos of it flying. Not sure I'll stump up the cash for it though. My stash is already too large. Looking forward to seeing what other's do with the kit. Great work Italeri.
  20. Hi Chuck, I agree completely with your decision to use the kit petal actuator arms. I did the same myself as the PE parts are too 2D in this scale. (I actually had to remake them all with brass tube and wire because I wanted to show the nozzles in a more closed position). The parts I was referring to in my previous post are the tiny bits that fold into a "U" shape and replace the molded on detail all the way round the back edge of the "donut" where the actuator arms attach. These are the "turkey feather" attachment points. The metal gives more fidelity to that area. I understand how sanding the donut smooth might reduce it's diameter so can see why you'd choose not to go that route. I used the Flightpath part wrapped around the kit donut to achieve the smooth effect. (Gary used the same technique in his post above.) Since it is actually metal it can be heated to get some cool metal effects as a bonus too. Just a thought....... Truth be told, I'm confident that the burner cans on your Eagle will look $million no matter what so keep up the great work. Cheers.
  21. Hi Chuck. Neat work on your burner cans. The additional etch adds another dimension. Two questions..... 1, no desire to use the etched petal attachments in place of the kit plastic? 2, Had you noticed the visual difference between the kit "donut" ring with it's tiered effect and the actual version which seems to be much smoother? Looking forward to seeing these under paint. Cheers.
  22. I think that the images that show significant "oil-canning" on modern aircraft are often of jets making hard manoeuvres and under extreme stress. The g-force appears to temporarily ripple the aircraft skin which then settles back to nearly flat when in normal flight. Jari's images seem to show that there are certain areas that appear distorted even in normal flight though. Cheers.
  23. Hi Peter, Nice subject choice. I really like the look of the later "pumped up" block Vipers. I shall follow along with this one as I'd love a grimy HAF or Polish Viper all decked out with big spine and CFT's alongside my F-16C at some point. Do you know if this build includes the bits needed for alternate blocks? Also, are the fuselage top CFT's included? Looking forward to seeing more. Cheers.
  24. That's my contention Dennis. https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=xr-d%2c+p7308&FORM=HDRSC2 The link I posted should take you to a search for XR-D, P7308 which will give you a glimpse of the airframe I believe Revell used as their basis for this kit. Ironic that you could have built the kit OOTB and still shown those same markings. (I built the same airframe painted as JZ-E, AR213). Keep up the good work. Cheers.
×
×
  • Create New...