Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/30/2020 in all areas

  1. 24 points
    Completed the 1/32 Fisher kit of the F7U-3 Cutlass. More detailed modelling info on my webpages here: https://designer.home.xs4all.nl/models/f7u-cutlass-32/f7u-32-1.htm Meindert
  2. 23 points
    turbo

    1/32 Corsair F4U-1A Boyington 833

    While I'm messing about trying to finish my 109e-3 thought I'd post my build of Tamiya's gorgeous Corsair F4U-1A I did a while back (I know, another one! But it's such a beautiful kit). The subject is Greg "Pappy" Boyington's 833 from the famous Black Sheep squadron VMF-214 based on Vella Lavella in late 1943. The kit was a pleasure to build with excellent engineering from Tamiya and plenty of detail to play with. As such, aftermarket was kept to a minimum only using Barracuda cockpit stencils and placards and Montex canopy and insignia masks. I scratchbuilt some additional engine detail, the cowl flap pulley system, and wheel well plumbing. Scratchbuilding the cowl flap pulley system in particular sent me a bit nuts and, given my time again, would probably just stump up for the Vector replacement set. Paint was mainly Gunze and Tamiya acrylics, weathering with hairspray chipping, salt fading, and oils. Cheers, Kirby
  3. 23 points
    Dart_Schatten

    1/32 Tamiya Mitsubishi A6M5 "Zero"

    And once again good day my friends! This is Tamiya beautiful kit! I just added BigEd (some parts) and 7,7mm barrels from Master. Model painted with Gunze paints and finished by Gunze oils. Insignias are painted with masks. Thanks! Regards, Sergey Budyansky.
  4. 23 points
    Hello all. This is my first post on this great site so I hope you will be kind to me. When this kit was first announced I was excited - I love the F-5E. I’ve seen scores of them over the years - mostly aggressors - the 527 AS at Alconbury, VFA-127, VFC-13 at Fallon and VMFT-401 at Yuma. I have even more in my collection including 64/65th AS Nellis aircraft and the NFWS from Miramar. There were literally hundreds of different schemes over the years. I bought the kit as soon as it appeared but a few reviews and close inspection of the plastic soon revealed that all was not rosy! Well this is after all Kittyhawk! Needless to say - the lovely picture of an early F-5E out of Luke AFB is not attainable out of the box - it needs a bit of work! Unperturbed I set about building an early NFWS (Top Gun) F-5E using the Furball decal sheet and planned for it to be ready for SMW 2019 to coincide with the 50th anniversary of the formation of “Top Gun”. I failed miserably! So as not to bore those who are not interested I have added a list of modifications at the end of the post - it was a lot of work! Colours were from Mr Paint (FS 36375 Light Ghost Gray) and Testors and Mr Paint (FS 35109) which were virtually identical - I already had the Testers version but found it difficult to spray so resorted to the Mr Paint version. The F-5E evolved as time went on and various aerials, sensors and aerodynamic mods were scabbed onto the basic airframe. Why oh why didn’t KH do the same!? A classic miss of a golden opportunity! It’s almost as easy to update the ancient Hasegawa kit than correct this one! Since this is not a review I will leave it at that but here is a list of the modifications I made to backdate the kit - most of which will be necessary to model any of the aggressors until the F-5N (which is what the kit really is) came along. My main reference was the excellent build by Chuck on LSP here: https://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?/topic/78413-132-kitty-hawk-f-5e-kicked-up-a-notch-oct-319-finished/ I will however point out that my build was not quite as involved as that one and nowhere near as good. I chose F-5E 169881/543 - mainly because I found a number of pictures of this aircraft on the web including a shot of the underneath. I chose to depict the aircraft a little later without the (IMHO) naff looking heart and diamond in the paintwork. The main changes I made were: Starboard cockpit side console was moulded reversed - carefully cut off and glued back the correct way and tidied up. Seat was assembled as per photographs and not the instructions. The cushion is shown in the incorrect place on the instructions. RWR sensors on nose filled with superglue and removed. Slots for the rear RWR sensors filled All gun doors closed up which involves reworking the latches. Fill sand and rescribe longitudinal mould flaw on fuselage sides. Chaff and Flare dispenser mountings removed from underside of fuselage and U/C door UHF Aerial on fin tip removed Slot for VHF aerial filled on spine. Refuelling ports are on the wrong side. Moulds were taken and the ports filled. Holes drilled in correct position and covers moulded and fitted. Rivets added to hot areas at fear fuselage and afterburner units. Archer rivets used. LEX modified to earlier shape Flaps and Ailerons modified to allow the correct droop. Master pitot probe fitted. No appropriate pitot included in kit for the “Standard” nose Resin A/B cans were poorly moulded on my example so I made a lining tube to give impression of “double skin” to exhaust Under fuselage pylon reprofiled - it simply doesn’t fit! Starboard side AOA panel scribed and probe scratch built Added Eduard Seat Belts - I was losing the will to live by then and couldn’t cope with sorting out a harness from the kit etch parts. Cheers Malcolm
  5. 23 points
  6. 23 points
    turbo

    1/32 Corsair F4U-1A Boyington 833

  7. 20 points
    Cheetah11

    Gulf War Tornado F3

    Here is the Tornado. I finished it towards the end of last year but has just been a little lazy in photographing it. Revell kit with all the necessary changes scratch built. Enjoy. Nick
  8. 20 points
    1/32 Tamiya F-16 “DARK FALCON” "It’s a longstanding tradition within the Belgian Air Force to have an F-16 Solo Display Team perform during the airshow season. A legacy worth preserving. Once every two or three years, an experienced F-16 pilot is selected to represent the Belgian Air Force internationally. From 2018 onwards, for the next three seasons, Senior Captain (Sr.Cpt.) Stefan Darte will perform at airshows all over Europe with a freshly painted F-16AM." ‘Vador’ "Very early in his career, his fellow student pilots gave him his nickname. It was obvious that his surname had to be extended with the addendum 'Vador', referring to the main character in the popular Star Wars movies." Stefan Darte "Sr. Cpt. Stefan Darte was born in 1977. He is a highly experienced pilot which has been flying the F-16 'Fighting Falcon' for some years. He spent most of his career flying with the 1st 'Scottish Thistle' Squadron, 2nd Tactical Wing, based at Florennes Air Base. He's currently a fighter weapons instructor. With nearly 3.000 flying hours on the F-16, 'Vador' will be able to demonstrate the maneuverability of the Fighting Falcon convincingly." “The F-16 Demo Team is more than a pilot and an F-16. Vador is supported by a vast team of professionals, each with their own speciality. During the airshow season, the groundcrew of the F-16 Demo Team will ensure that the pilot can perform in the best possible conditions with a perfectly prepared aircraft.” The team itself consists of one display pilot, fourteen technicians and a webmaster. All team members belong to ordinary air force personnel which means they have to fulfil their duties as the members of the team as well as they are available for any mission to preserve peace and security worldwide. So, this is my take on this aircraft in 1/32 scale, before you mention it there are some things, I couldn’t do to replicate the aircraft properly, the engine isn’t correct and the smoke winders are home-made, there are a few other things, but I have used what I could. There are no decals in 1/32 so this is all airbrushed, and I made my own decals were necessary. I used MRP paints as they dry quick and helped me in the masking department, this isn’t finished as I am waiting on reed oak to send me the figures I need, but the aircraft its self is finished. Enjoy
  9. 20 points
    Hi, some progress in assembling and weathering the 262 ... time for dinner now :-)
  10. 19 points
    HL-10

    Focke Wulf 189

    HPH's kit of the Fw-189. A very advanced resin kit with detail that would make mainstream injection moulding companies quiver with fear to reproduce. Definitely no "shake & bake" kit with a number of challenges, but an enjoyable if taxing build. Painted with Xtracolor enamels and Tamiya acrylics. Thanks for looking. Angelo
  11. 19 points
    This is my first posting to the forum so, please, treat me kindly if I don't know exactly how to behave in the beginning. All the puppies and newbies need a hug first. I got my Hobby Boss A-26B Invader yesterday and I quickly reviewed the instructions and all the sprues and compared them with actual A-26 blueprints and historical photos. And to my great relief, it seems that it is not that difficult to make the most needed corrections to make this kit replicate the actual A-26B really well. Of course, to make it 100% accurate you would need to change the cross-section of the fuselage, etc. but to my eye that drastic corrections are not needed to create a very accurate kit. So here are those points that I think need modifications and what I am planning to do with them: Engines: As it has been said many, many times before, there are a few cylinders missing. But I think there is a quite simple and cost effective solution to that. The kit has cylinder rows molded in four parts (front row front and back sides, and back row front and back sides). All the other parts except these look good. So I will cast two resin parts (the two cylinder rows) that will match the other engine parts of the kit so they will be just easy replacements of the four kit parts. And then I will make those for both engines. With that there will not be a need to replace the whole engines, just the cylinder rows. Quite easy and very cost efficient compared to full resin engines. Engine cowlings: Now that I have seen the actual parts they look actually quite good to me. So I am planning to use them as they are. Missing lower turret: The lower turret is missing and the shape of that area of the fuselage is not as curved as it should be. And again, not that difficult of a solution: I will cut out that bottom fuselage area along the panel lines and with the cut out pieces I will create a new part out of resin that has a hole and a railing for the turret and is also more properly shaped. Then I will also copy the top turret with resin and use that for the lower turret as well (and maybe I will sand the kit top turret before that in order to improve the shape a bit). For the lower turret guns I will use spare nose guns (see below). I also need to create a cradle for the lower turret if I want to make it turn. That shouldn't be that difficult either: a couple of pieces of styrene and a resin copy of one of the top turret cradle parts. The gunner position aft bulkhead is vertical in the kit but it should be slanted like in the actual plane, to allow the lower turret to fit in. To correct that I will simply extend and modify the kit bulkhead part (and maybe cast that in resin as well). In the end I will have a replacement resin lower fuselage part with a turret and guns. This will be very similar to what ICM has done with their 1/48 A-26B-15 kit. Canopy: The canopy framing is for the later bubble shape canopy but the canopy shape is for the earlier flat canopy. Solution? I will go with the earlier flat-style canopy and simply sand away the misplaced frames and paint the frames correctly for the earlier style canopy. If I dare, I will very carefully place some rivets to the new frames. This will then make it easy for me to decide which sub-version of the A-26B I will make: this canopy solution will make me go with A-26B 'early' or A-26B-15. Nose guns and the nose shape: The kit comes with 8 nose guns that is correct for a later version of A-26B. But I need to have a nose for the earlier version because of the canopy. Most early A-26B's had 6 nose guns. So I will fill the existing nose gun holes and, once that is done, I might sand the nose part a bit to make it appear more square. Then I will drill new holes in proper places for the six nose guns. And now I will have two extra guns that I can use for the lower turret. Economical! Probably there is no need for a resin nose part because this is such a simple modification. Cockpit: The kit cockpit is correct for the Korean War era or Vietnam War era Invaders but is not right for the early A-26B's. There should be only one pilot seat and control stick/wheel and the dashboard should be only on the pilot side. Also the middle console should extend all the way back to the cockpit bulkhead. And various bits and pieces are missing. Well, this will be anyone's taste how much effort they want to put in here. I will remove the right hand side seat and the stick, cut the dashboard and scratch build the middle console extension and add wires, radios, jump seat, etc. Update: I mistakenly had looked at only the separate cockpit parts and did not notice that the cockpit floor part actually has that middle console extension. So no need to scratch build that. Little bits: The kit doesn't have the top periscope, the pitot tube on the left side of the nose and the loop antenna, which is typical for the early version of the A-26B (the kit has the 'football' antenna, which some earlier versions and all of the later versions had). On the belly side there are a couple of antennas(?) that early versions did not have. Well, this is typical model building: check your references and decide which little bits and pieces you need and which you don't. I will (again) make a resin copy of the lower periscope and use that for the top periscope. The pitot tube is quite easy to scratch build. And the loop antenna is that typical 'Tamiya staple' treat. The plane that I will make did not have the belly antennas so I will not use them. Decals: All of the decals in the kit are for later demonstration/tanker planes. So I will laser print my own decals unless there will be some nice after-market decals coming soon. So this is it for me! After all, not that difficult. At least a lot easier than the needed wing and turret modifications that I am planning in horror for my B-24J Liberator 42-99990 'Short Snorter'. There will be quite a few resin parts that I will make so if anyone is interested I might cast a few extra ones. By the way, the instructions say that there is 150 grams of nose weight needed. A lot! But fortunately not as much as is needed for the mighty B-24 Liberator.
  12. 19 points
    Fresh from the printer - the fuselage side (ex-) camera blisters. In situ. The big electronics canoe was fitted to the fuselage as well. Most of the characteristic ERA-3B parts are now fitted or at least ready to be fitted. Next step is marking the position of the tail planes and fitting the inner wing sections.
  13. 19 points
    Thanks gents! Still in a holding pattern on this build but there is some movement on the latch decals. Hopefully, I'll them soon. In the meantime, I've decided to start on some of the post-shading...
  14. 18 points
    Thanks, Criag - and no is the answer. Me and electrics don't really get on, but maybe it's something I should consider in the future. Howdy Partners I hope everyone is faring OK in these strange times. A little more Shackleton progress to update you on... I have been working on getting the cockpit roof attached to the fuselage of late. I spent a fun (not) couple of hours finishing the making of the sills for the transparent parts to sit on when the time comes - Evergreen to the rescue once again: IMG_0191 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr With that done, I made the pilots' overhead panel from some generic bits and bobs from the spares box - not particularly accurate but it's almost impossible to see it once the roof is on - and sprayed the inside of the cockpit roof matt black: IMG_0202 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr A final test-fit then followed to ensure all of the interior fits as it should - which thankfully it did: IMG_0204 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr You can see how little of the interior is actually visible, which is why I haven't really gone to town on the insides. Before finally attaching the roof section I made some more tabs to ensure a strong and secure join, and then masked the windows from the inside to keep dust and future paint out of the flightdeck. I then slathered P-38 automotive filler over the joins and allowed everything to settle for a couple of days before attacking it with the sandpaper. IMG_0207 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr As you can see things have gone reasonably well, but there is a pronounced dip where the cross-hatched area is that'll need more filler. This was due to me not being careful enough when constructing the fuselage but P-38 is the scratch-builder's best friend and it should make light work of this. You can see the 'dip' more clearly when a straight line is superimposed on the pictures: IMG_0209 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr So here's the state of play now - some more filling and sanding over the weekend and then some primer to see how it's all bedded in: IMG_0206 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr Until next time, Tom
  15. 17 points
    Here is my another P-40E Included all sets from CMK All colours MRP
  16. 17 points
    repeater

    ZM SWS P-51D Red Dog XII

    Thanks @chuck540z3! Chuck, builds like yours have improved my skills. Thanks again Ok, so I have slowly worked away at the kit which has been an extremely enjoyable process. I really appreciate the ZM philosophy.. lots of care and detail. Progress so far engine, oil tank and framing has been done - this will need more plumbing, wiring, detailing etc that will be done later. Lots more kit parts to be added. machine guns and ammo belts are done wing fuel tanks These are assembled on the airframe. Not sure how accurate the framing is.. I've read mixed reports, and there are lots of diagrams on the web, but again, I don't know which is most accurate. Obviously, period photos are best where available. Onto the pics. I'll be adding the wing skins, fuselage panels, but leave the following exposed on the final build engine bay, machine guns and ammo belts port side wing tank Here you can see the multiple colours that ZM moulded this kit black (eg. unpainted starboard wing tank), light gray (rear fuselage panel) and a dark metallic gray (unpainted bits of the wing framing) I'm not a fan of this.. the plastic is not as easy to work with as other brands (eg. tamiya).. it doesn't respond as well to solvent, is a little harder to clean up, etc. A relatively minor gripe (haha, but still easier than the full resin kit I'm building!) Still a lot more work to do for the engine bay... I'll save this for later. The cockpit is really nice out of the box. It's funny - on the sprues the detail looks a little soft but it paints up really well. I'll cut out some of the wing skin so that the port wing tank is visible.. and so at least some of the internal detail is displayed. What's the definitive guide to use of primer vs interior green? It seems to vary a bit. I've gone with the following primer yellow-green: for engine framing, engine bay, internal framing, wheel bays interior green: cockpit Thanks for looking. All comments, criticism, feedback etc is more than welcome. Tim.
  17. 15 points
    tomprobert

    HobbyBoss' BIG Lib

    Greetings all, This rather large box somehow appeared on my doorstep this week - how these things happen I shall never understand... I love the 8th Air Force and the B-17 and B-24 in particular, so decided to have a go at the recent HobbyBoss release of the B-24, or the 'crate the B-17 was delivered in' if you spoke a B-17 crew. Not very fair really, especially when you consider it could fly farther, faster and with a greater bombload than the Fort. The kit looks fairly simple in places as has been discussed at length elsewhere, but that's just what I'm after at the moment - something nice and straightforward but with an imposing end product. We shall see... Customary box shots: IMG_0197 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr IMG_0199 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr And progress so far... I thought I'd ignore the instructions and start with the main undercarriage bays. First up was a spraying of aluminium and a grey Flory wash to bring out some of the lovely detailing: IMG_0195 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr Following by it all slotting together rather nicely into a very sturdy box-structure: IMG_0200 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr IMG_0201 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr All that only took a couple of hours in total - lovely! Take care all, Tom
  18. 14 points
    Good afternoon, colleagues! Another recently finished model - the famous "Zero" from Tamiya. The model was executed in the version of Major Shigeru Itaya, the Akagi aircraft carrier, leader of the fighter cover of the first wave, December 7, 1941.
  19. 14 points
    Dandiego

    1:32nd F6U Pirate

    Dan
  20. 14 points
    patricksparks

    Liberated during quarantine

    Finally finished the wings other than thinning down the ailerons which will be easy compared to what was already done. I have moved onto the interior which is quite a few parts, for the most part all fits good except for a couple of the small bulkheads in the tail and the cockpit bulkhead, floor and instrument panel need to be reduced in width a little for the fuselage to close up. Also put the Eduard cockpit set in . I wanted to make the engines look a little better, I had purchased HK models B-17 engine sprues a while ago when this B-24 kit first came out, figured I would use the props and tires, hopefully the engines... Well I was able to take the cylinder rings and cut 2 cylinders off cutting center between the adjacent cylinders , then I sawed a notch in between the remaining 7 cylinders about half way through the ring and then gently bent them all until I had a smaller ring and glued the joint where the other 2 cylinders had occupied. Worked well and I did the same with the push rods. Unfortunately I haven't been to work still, I could draw a new crank case in 3D really quickly that would look more like it should and print them.. I also have Harold's AMS propeller governors that I added.
  21. 13 points
    crobinsonh

    Trumpeter 1/24th Bf-109G

    In fact my first German anything from a modelling perspective. I was dramatically reducing my stash when I came across the Trumpeter Bf--109G. I think I bought this in 2006 for the princely sum of £29.99. Over the years the box gathered dust but I did accumulate the Verlinden cockpit detail set and the Contact Resine wheels, spinner and prop blades along with Eduard placards set. I am NO expert at all of Bf-109's so I am sure that I am about to commit many sins for which I will apologise now. if you see something then please let me know as this is all about education from my perspective. I have started the Verlinden cockpit and as I will not be exposing the engine this has just been painted satin black. I apologise for the photos - all with my iPhone 8 and in the kitchen as the light box and Sony A9 is all packed away at present. I am looking to do create a well worn and heavily used 109 late in the war - I have not decided on markings yet. Onto the first set of images - I have added extra details to the Verlinden set using the SAM publication and the Aeroguide as reference material. As well as the exquisite Bf-109 builds of many members on the site - in particular @Thunnus Next stop HGW seat belts and finishing touches.
  22. 13 points
    Thanks Gentlemen - I am quite happy with the current progress indeed. The camera blisters are not fitted and puttied. I have also added the surrounding strengthener which I have cut on my Silhouette, but I have not yet photographed it. The LH side elevator base is ready as well, the RH side one currently doesn't print properly - no idea why.
  23. 13 points
    Hi everyone! Made some good progress in the past three weeks. In my previous update I spent time detailing the wheel wells and undercarriage struts. With that stage complete I moved on to painting. I used MRP for the overall white colour and Vallejo acrylic steel for the pipes and hoses. Everything was highlighted with a black wash from Tamiya's panel liner series. Some Eduard placards were placed here and there to add a few more detail touches. I also took the opportunity to complete the covers and engine exhausts. Next, I tried to tackle the kit's worst engineering aspect, the engine area. I wanted to install the horizontal stabilisers at a later stage to ease painting and also reduce the amount of assembly in that area post painting due to the metallic colours. I finally decided to saw through the connecting tube between the stabilisers and clear up the plastic. Both parts can then be slotted into place by rotating them slightly so the lower area can sit inside the hole of the tail area. They will have to be glued in place to ensure proper placement but I never planned to play around with them in the first place anyway... The separate lower section of the engine was then glued in place and all joints were sanded smooth after filling with a mixture of super glue and talcum powder. Any lost detail was rescribed to the best of my abilities. I also installed the top wing sections in place and used mr surfacer to close any gaps that appeared near the fuselage join. I added a bit of detail in the parachute area but to be honest not much is visible... By the way, is it me or Eduard's exhaust cans are grossly undersized??? Any suggestions on how to fix that?
  24. 13 points
    Robthepom

    Trumpeter Harrier II AV-8B

    hello fellows, i jumped ahead a bit with this build Aircraft assembled, camo painted with the excellent SMS paints, gloss and decals done, wow not bad progress hey. Decals are good, nice and thin easy to use over good gloss Accuracy??? .... *Rob Shrugs*, looks like a harrier to me pic pic pic
  25. 13 points
    Phartycr0c

    HPH FW 189 Eagle Owl.

    Paint is on then I graffitied all over it. Banksy it is not! Excuse the newspaper just being used as a crap barrier. Decals and weathering next up!
  26. 13 points
  27. 13 points
    MikeMaben

    Dragon / CE 109D ...Major Progress !!

    I applied a decal !!! See if you can find it. Anyway, I finally got the oil bubble removed from my right eye so I have a little better depth perception (not perfect yet) so all I've been able to do is putz around with relatively small things. Hope to be getting more done now. Aahaaarrr !
  28. 12 points
  29. 12 points
  30. 12 points
    Hey all- plodding along filling rivets! Going pretty quickly- residual putty in panel lines and up against raised details is easy to remove with a brass toothpick- cheers Pete
  31. 12 points
  32. 12 points
    spacewolf

    MENG War Toons Tiger

    It's funny how sometimes the muse inspires when you are not looking. I'm part of a group on a FB forum and we had a animal name group build going.. I couldn't get inspired at all... then I was at a local drug store and saw these minion candy holder/ hand fans and boom ! Had this build done in less than a week. The base was found at the local Dollar Store. I covered the top with sheet styrene, scribed & painted it with various shades of grey. The minion fan was taken apart, the headphones made with a hole punch for the discs and copper wire. The tank was OOB. Paint was a mix of Tamyia & Vallejo, the crest hand painted. All in all a fun project.
  33. 12 points
    www.facebook.com/mikro.mir.dnepr/ - 1/32 Miles Magister Mk.1 Test Build And more pictures here: www.greenmats.club - Miles Magister Mk.1, MikroMir 1/32 Juraj
  34. 12 points
    Bit more progress, still a few things to add, but getting close to finishing up this gunbay, Note the wing head bolts on the armor plate, some HGW textile straps for the webbing and various other bits n pieces
  35. 12 points
    Hey all- I installed the square receiver tube for the inflight stand- and I started the prep for replacing the recessed rivets with raised ones. to fill the rivets, I applied Waterfiller Putty from True Earth. They claim it is a water based resin (?) . I simply brush it on over the rivets. When it is dry, I wipe away the excess with a rag dampened with 91% isopropyl alcohol. Any filler that wanders into a panel line is easily removed with a brass toothpick- Once you wipe wipe the filler away, check it under good light, inspecting the rivets at a low angle- if you see shadows from incompletely filled rivets, just repeat the process. the white filler will help me position the Archer raised rivets- cheers Pete
  36. 12 points
    Fin bonded in place - and panel lines/joints filled: And with rudder in place - all coming together quite well! Have fun! Iain
  37. 12 points
    Grant_T

    Luftwaffe F-4F Phantom 2

    And a bit of progress.
  38. 11 points
    Once the whole thing was glued up, that wing root mated up much better, although there's plenty of smoothing yet to do on that coarsely-filed surface: The starboard side had a bigger gap between root and wing than did the port - I'll need to stuff some Evergreen sheet in here: This is also going to require some work: As is this - the shape of the tail section is fundamentally deeper than how the wing section is molded. You know you are into it when you need to get the woodworking tools out: I squished it to make the edges match, applied copious Tamiya extra-thin, and went for a 4 hour bike ride to make sure it really set up well before I tried to remove the clamp. I was afraid that there was so much tension in the plastic that it might pop back apart once the clamp came off, but it actually held. A relief. On to patching with Evergreen: Just needed a little bit of putty on the port side: Starboard side smoothed and puttied after the glue set up Still needs fine sanding, but much-improved Evergreen plus Squadron putty plus a lot of sanding got this shaped up too: Obviously there's plenty of smoothing still to be done, but the shape is there. All in all it was only a couple hours' work to get all the seams straightened out. I have found that it really helps to have the combo of Squadron putty (toluene-based, much more "structural", takes real sanding/filing once dry) and Perfect Plastic putty (water-based, only good for narrow cracks, but can be put on and quickly wiped with a damp Q-tip for an almost-instant fix) in my toolkit. I still need to fine-sand and then cover all the putty with Mr Surfacer, and then re-scribe, but overall I'm pleased - I was worried that this would be significantly harder to do than it was.
  39. 11 points
    Dandiego

    1:32nd F6U Pirate

    Major paint work. First I applied the Engine Grey but it seemed much too dark. You can see it here on the fuselage. I have also added panel line shading with flat black. So I lightened it with some white and applied it over the black shaded fuselage in very thin coats. Next I lightened the custom grey again and added it to the fuselage trying for a faded paint look. I have yet to paint the forward fuselage because I don't have the windscreen done yet. Underside. Dan
  40. 11 points
    Hi everyone I'm still battling away with the construction of the tail section of this B17G..... long old slow process but I have made some good progress! I was about half way through constructing the tail out of balsa wood in my last post ....so here are some photos of where I am at the moment. Here you can see that I have filled with scrap balsa in between the longerons on the section I built in the last post... The next 3 photos show that I have built the rudder and temporarily attached it the the tail assembly...... After giving it some thought I decided that the rudder would eventually look better if I skinned it with tissue. So after sanding down the rudder as smooth as I could get it , I applied the tissue with a couple of coats of shrinking dope....time to get as high as a coot!!... The trim tab I left as solid balsa wood..... The fun really started then as whilst looking at the scale plans I am using I realized that the tail gun position was of the old "stinger" configuration!...as shown in this next photo.... I needed the up dated Cheyenne turret...as in this next photo..... Well this caused me all sorts of worries as I would have to some how build the Cheyenne turret with out any scaled plans. I down loaded and printed off a drawing of the turret using Foxit reader and tried to get it to the same scale as my existing plans...I got it as close as I could but it was really just a guide of sorts! I then basically had to take a look at photos and transfer what I saw into some sort of balsa construction! So it was a bit of a challenge to say the least! So first up .....I placed the built fuselage onto the drawings and literally drew in the shape that I needed to get the width of the turret ...trying to remember that the drawings were slightly out of scale and then looked at photos of the side of the turret to get as close as I could the height and shape dimensions!....crazy way of doing it but this was all I could do. Here is that process on the go...... I then filled in between the stringers with balsa and literally whittled the shape of the turret!...getting the aperture shape for the ball was a nightmare but managed to do it in the end... To make the ball that fits into the hole....for want of a better description!!....I thought best to make a plug in the correct shape out of balsa and do a plug and mold procedure! I placed the mold into the hole!....to check out what it looked like....I thought ...so far so good! I got the mold ready to push onto the frame where I attached a piece of food packaging plastic ready to be heated... ...and fired up my old Bulgarian grill machine!...perfect for the job! Placed the prepared frame under the grill.....waited for the melt!....and boom!....managed to get it right first time...something that doesn't always happen for me! After cutting out the slots for the machine gun barrels, I cut the mold out and super glued it to the turret.... ....and finally here it is attached to the fuselage with pegs!! The fun and games doesn't stop there for this Cheyenne turret as I have to somehow get the perspex enclosure built....again this will be done by staring at photos all day!! Thanks as always for taking a look guys and see you next time round! Cheers Fozzy
  41. 11 points
    Dandiego

    1:32nd F6U Pirate

    First coat of flat yellow. Lots of work still to go but , I likey! Dan
  42. 10 points
    JefH

    1/32 Hasegawa P-47 "Oh Johnnie"

    Hi again. Made a little more (slow) progress on the P-47. Did a little oil dot filtering, which isn't really showing up in the photos to well and a panel line wash before hitting the model with some Alclad flat clear. I think I will devote some attention to the smaller items while I let the clear set up for a couple days. Then I can hit it with some further weathering. The windscreen and canopy are just being held on by gravity. The gaps will disappear when they're fixed in place. It kind of a tricky model to weather I've realized mixing a well used fuselage with replacement wings. I'm running the risk of it looking like I forgot to weather the wings when I'm done. Thanks again for looking. Jeff
  43. 10 points
    Dandiego

    1:32nd F6U Pirate

    Stickers!!!! Yes I see the silvering, I will have to remedy. This is a little difficult because I am sourcing stickers from the spares box. Unfortunately the old Microscale sheet for 1:32 Pirates is currently unavailable!? Dan
  44. 10 points
    This is my 1/32 Tamiya P-51D-5 Mustang with the markings of “Passion Wagon” flown by Lt Arvil Robertson Cockpit modified by Eduard PE instrument panel, Barracudacast seat and RB Production cockpit floor decal. Wheels replaced with Barracudacast set. Paints: Gunze Sangyo acrylics Decals: EagleCals EC103 Happy modelling
  45. 10 points
    rjones726

    SpaceX launch

    Just watched the SpaceX launch. It was just as exciting as I remember from the 60's. I will say todays screen quality beat the heck out of our old 19" black and white TV Hope the rest of the mission goes as well.
  46. 10 points
  47. 10 points
    mark31

    Su-25UB

    small start on the front pit Mark
  48. 10 points
    Shortening the landing gear means the scissors are now too extended to fit naturally. So, let's shorten them. Why not make them variable while I'm at it. First I separated the two legs by cutting in the knee-joint with a micro-saw, enough so the rounded part was completely through. Then I cut both half circles from the side so that each leg had one attached. Next holes were drilled for an axle to pass through. I used a solid-copper UTP vain as an axle. Now, the width of the scissor can be set to anything. Test fit after securing arms and axle with superglue. Cleanup, fitting of hydraulic lines and repaint are next.
  49. 10 points
    Grizly

    My Three Migs

    OK, I stand corrected. They are a Polish Lim-6, an Egyptian Shenyang J-6 and a Polish Mig-21MF all built from Trumpeter kits. The 17 was an early offering by Trumpeter and isn't one of their better kits. With a bit of work, however, it can be built into a reasonable model. The other two Migs are nice kits and can be built into respectable models straight from the box.
  50. 10 points
    AlbertD

    Hasagawa F4B-4

    This was a fun build. The kit shows it's age but goes together well. There is quite a bit of flash on the parts but easy enough to clean up. Most of the paints are MRP, the engine is Vector resin and the decals are Yellow Wings. Thanks for looking
×
×
  • Create New...