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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/14/2019 in all areas

  1. 27 points
    Finally back again at the bench after 4 months. in past 2 weeks I was able to work on engines. I really like details provided in the kit, however I went extra mile to make the front part which will be visible as detailed as possible main parts glued together exhausts painted decent wash applied final results, quite happy wit the outcome thanks for looking jan
  2. 25 points
    Fenous

    Hasegawa A6M5c Type 52

    Finale: Build thread here:
  3. 20 points
    August 13/19 A brief update. With summer here it’s hard to find time or the motivation to model, but I have accomplished a few things. First of all, despite my prior comments about spraying this model with semi-gloss lacquer to knock done the shine a bit, I’ve decided to keep it shiny after all. I have many pics of VFC-13 Gloss Black F-5E/N’s and they are all super shiny, even from a distance. The next task which I’ve been dreading is decals. I’m pretty good at decals and have even written a fairly detailed tutorial on this step, but I had many problems with this build. For those interested in that tutorial, it is here: How To Apply Decals Now the decal problems before I even started: 1. Nobody makes decals for VFC-13 Saints F-5’s entirely in red, which are on all of the black Aggressors. The only red decals I could find are for VFC-111 Sundowners, and not all of them are red. 2. The VFC-111 Sundowner decals that available are from the kit or the OOP Two Bobs 32-040 decals. Thanks to “Dragon” (Mike) who sent me some of the red decals he wasn’t using, I had a set of both (thanks again Mike!). However, the Two Bobs decals are a dull red and not bright red as they should be. The kit decals, on the other hand, are very thick and hard to 3. No decals of the US Insignia emblem are made in red- or at least as far as I can tell. So I decided to go with mostly the kit decals when color was important, Two Bobs decals when it didn’t, a set of Profimodeller decals (32-286) for the red star on the tail and the big red and yellow nose number and finally Maketar insignia paint masks to finish the job. This results in a bit of a “Whatif” VFC-111 Gloss Black F-5N that doesn’t exist, but unless you’re an expert on these jets you probably wouldn’t notice. On the tail, the Profimodeller, red star went on easily and the thin decal film blended into the rivet detail with ease. The big red “NAVY” decal; from the kit was quite thick, but the bright red color won the day. The other smaller kit decals nearby were crude and I found that many of them were off register, revealing a white rim around each decal. These were torn off and replaced with Two Bobs decals, even if the red wasn’t very bright. Similar story up front, with the big Profimodeller “01” decal, while the balance were Two Bobs decals. NOTE: The Profimodeller decals come with replacements for the "01" decal, which don't have yellow in the interior of the "0", so use them instead. One very characteristic feature of most F-5’s is the pronounced dashed border around the two “No Step” areas on the wing, especially directly above the landing gear well. With no red decals available, I decided to paint them instead, along with the Maketar paint masks for the two insignias on the intakes and one each for the top and bottom of the wings. This was probably the most involved masking job I’ve ever done, so I sure hope it was worth it! Make sure you keep the masking tape off existing decals or they will likely lift when the tape is removed. BTW, the VFC-111 decal is Two Bobs, because the kit one was terrible, while the "E" is the kit one. I then painted these areas with Model Master “Chrysler Engine” bright red enamel (#2732), which closely matches the “NAVY” red decal. I thinned the paint quite a bit with Mr. Leveling Thinner #400 to make sure that the edge of the tape demarcation lines were sharp, but you can’t load up the first coat too much or you will get paint bleed underneath the tape. Unfortunately this gloss paint takes a long time to dry, so you need to be patient (which I’m not). I was also building the CATM-9M missile for the starboard wingtip and the TCTS pod (AN/ASQ-T50 V2) port side wing, as found in all recent F-5 Navy Aggressors. Detailed pics of these pods can be found in Jake Melampy’s Super Hornet Guide on Pages 165 and 166. Building the CATM-9M missile was easy, using the Zactomodels AIM-9L/M resin replacements, which I always marvel over every time I build one. This missile, along with the other Zactomodels missiles, are the very best resin kits I have ever used on any model- period! The super thin wings, which are surprisingly strong, and the fins that have to be glued on, make painting these details very easy. After using Two Bobs decals, they really look the part: The TCTS pod was another story. Although there are TACTS and ACMI pods out there in 1/32, none of them are for CUBIC pods or TCTS pods and none of them have the much-needed ballasts to add weight to the wingtip to replicate the weight of an AIM-9 missile. After building the beautiful CATM-9 missiles, I needed something that was fairly accurate and higher quality than the resin pods that are available. If any of you resin guys are listening, there’s a huge market for these pods, especially if they are high quality! So what to do? I had a pretty good CUBIC pod made by a friend for my CF-18B model years ago, that has many similar features of what I was looking for. This pod needs 3 ballasts for the F/A-18 wingtip application, while the TCTS pod I need has only two ballasts. Fortunately, this pod was only held on with pins, so I cannibalized it for this build instead! Modifying it heavily, I created something close to what I wanted with the middle ballast removed, but the rear ballast could not be moved forward a bit without harming the pod, so I left it as is. All painted up with more Two Bobs decals (which are really for an ACMI TACTS pod), it looks pretty close to the real deal. The blue band was painted on, since the Two Bobs blue band decals are always too dark. Note that the antenna probes on the head bend backwards slightly like the real deal. Note that both pods have pins for easy insertion into the wingtip launchers- or future models! That’s it for another week or two while I finalize the decal painting and many other small details. Cheers, Chuck
  4. 19 points
    Something with a Polish accent this time. F-105D Polish Glider Set: Trumpeter 1:32 scale, model made as always straight from the box. The model is not simple to build.
  5. 19 points
    airscale

    1/18 P51C Mustang "Lopes Hope the 3rd"

    Hi folks been a while - it's got to a really tough bit of the build... that is really interesting & a bit worrying Kevin ... I guess I will just have to see what happens - the etch is nickel silver so i guess they may react one day - fingers crossed I get lucky so, what's been happening... I got the cockpit pod assembled in a jig and got it in the airframe... ..the external sidewalls of the fuselage have also been added & faired in.. ..I wanted to get the rear window area sorted so I started by making a plug for vacforming but once I had a go with my usual dismal success at vacforming PETG (I get distortion etc) I realised the curves are not compound really so I just bent some sheet in boing water and made a slit along the top rear edge so I could pinch it in a bit to get the upper profile.. ..the windows were then set out and the covering removed - I had an etched template I did that matches the framing I also had done as these are really difficult to do freehand.. ..also made the inner skins and the front former which were painted black on the outside & green on the inside.. ..then added to the interior (carefully!) - the seam doesn't matter as it will be covered, and the little metal brace at the back is so far down the fuselage it cannot be seen.. ..there are some gubbins on the roof of this area so these were made up in metal & plastic and wired up.. ..then as I was about to add the assembly and fair it all in, I thought I had better get the front windshield fuselage area done as if there is any sanding, all the dust will get in the rear cockpit and I will never get it out.. ..I had drawings - you can see the windshield drops down each side of the upper curve of the fuselage and actually the armoured glass panel goes right through this area.. ..I made up templates as there is so much three dimensional geometry going on it is really (and I mean really) difficult to fabricate.. ..one shows where the IP coaming is in relation to the windsheild, the long one is just the overall upper profile with a vertical where the rear of the front windshield is.. ..I made up many more templates and plugs for moulding the windshield & coaming - I also spent days trying to figure out why things were not lining up before I realised the top of the fuselage was very lop-sided so the half-round template is to correct that.. ..one of the coaming vacforms - this is wrong but each tester gets me closer... one thing I am struggling with is on many cockpit pics the panel does not look set back very far, but every factory drawing has it set quite deep - it has to be deep as that is where the panel goes in the cockpit pod, but it is a bit of optical trickery I am struggling with.. ..so some overall shots of the mock-up windshield and the rear glazed area - once I get the plug for the windshield I will probably just plunge mould PETG panels in boiling water as this completely preserves the optical clarity and assemble individual panels to make it up.. lots and lots of fettling & thinking to be done in this bit... ..back when I have some meaningful progress TTFN Peter
  6. 19 points
    Gisbod

    1/24 Airfix F6F-5 Hellcat

    Thanks! I’ve pushed on and I’ve pre shaded and highlighted- it may be a waste of time as the top coat will be so dark, but I’ll build it up in thin layers and see how I go! The engine is only placed on and the wing is just resting - to see what she’ll look like... Guy
  7. 18 points
    OK, so I guess many of you, especially from the States, already have had this 'experience'. But being a bit sidelined here in Scandinavia, getting a close encounter with a real living 4 engine bomber, is a rare treat. On friday, B-17G 'Sally B' flew in from Duxford to be part of this years Danish Airshow and of course I had to come and meet 'her'. Please bear with me, I just had to share this truly awesome experience! Engine startup, wow what a sound! Nice atmosphere: A group of reenactors with Jeep's in front of 'Sally B'. Fun fact: The preservation society keeping 'Sally B' in the air is headed by danish woman named 'Elly'- Ellinor Sallingboe, wife of late aviator Ted White. In 1979 Elly Sallingboe and Ted White formed B-17 Preservation to operate and raise funds to keep the last re- maining B-17 in the UK flying as the USAAF WW II Memorial Flight. My favorite 'girls' - Miss Pick Up & Sally B 'Sally B rolling in from a very nice late evening airshow. Sally B Cheers: Kent
  8. 18 points
    Some additional closeup pictures of the diorama... Thanks for looking... Cheers: Kent
  9. 16 points
    Gisbod

    1/24 Airfix F6F-5 Hellcat

    I’d love to say I was that clever Adam! But no. To be honest, there’s quite a bit of negativity towards the stressed skin effect , but having handled it close up over the last few weeks - I really like it, I think it’s very well done, and I don’t really see the uniformity of it, the fuselage in particular is very random and convincing to my eye? I think it’s great! Yep, you can see all my mistakes in full technicolour Matt! Talking of which, I have given it the first couple of (thin) coats (about 50% thinners in fact) of the Mr Color Blue and I’m actually very pleased so far.. all the pre painting showing through nicely. My plan next is to overcoat it with MRP Sea Blue, which is the correct, darker midnight blue, hopefully still leaving the pre shade subtly showing through. The Mr Color Blue looks great, but I think it’s too light to be accurate. I haven’t seen any pictures of the real aircraft faded like the Corsairs? They all seem uniformly dark blue. Which is fine, but I reckon that would look a bit boring on a scale model. The MRP paints are very translucent, so hopefully I’ll be able to get a balance between the two...
  10. 15 points
    Fliegerhorst Grove - May 1945. Arado Ar 234B-2 'Fernaufklärer' (Photo reconnaissance) Arado Ar 234B-2, (Wk. Nr. 140467), 8H+BH 1(F)/33, This Aircraft was flown by Oberleutnant Ulrich Planck on one of the last recon- naissance missions over British territory on 4th April 1945. This was almost certainly the last Luftwaffe mission over East Yorkshire, possibly over the British mainland at all, in World War II. As the Germans retreated in the final days of WW2, the Arado's of 1(F)/33) were relocated from Wittmundhafen to Schleswig. On 4th May 1945 Lt. Planck flew 8H+BH from Schleswig to 'Fliegerhorst Grove'. At 8.35pm on May 4th 1945 the German troops in the Netherlands, northwest Germany and Denmark surrendered. On 5th of May Lt. Planck departed from Grove to Stavanger-Sola (Norway) in Arado Ar 234B-2 8H+DH. German forces in Norway didn't capitulate before 8/9 May 1945. 8H+BH was captured at Grove by British troops in May 1945. Fly Models Arado Ar 234 B-2, Revell German Truck Type 2,5-32, Zoukei-Mura Power Supply Cart + various figures and bicycle. Jumo engines from Trumpeter Me 262 kit. Scratch built 'Portalkran', cameras
  11. 15 points
    Markjames1968

    New kit releases

    In keeping with the current trend of companies announcing kits after deciding to start designing the CAD , AFTER THEY HAVE COMPLETED THE LAST 2 KITS THEY ANNOUNCED 5 YEARS AGO , and companies generally announcing vapourware, i thought i would announce the new kits my company will be releasing, after i form the company, which will require me winning 5 million quid on the lottery.. 1 year after i win the lottery and form my new company i will release in 1/24 Sea Fury Swordfish Corsair In 1/32, Invader marauder Stirling anyway, something for you to look forward too, ................they should be out sometime before a few of the current in development kits.......
  12. 15 points
    ericg

    RAAF FAC OV-10A All the small things

    Thanks guys. Here is a great pic of Graham, taken by Ken Semmler upon their diversion to Tay Ninh West, post combat action. He is chatting to ‘ALOFT 07’, the FAC mentioned in his combat report above. A great thing about this photo is that it is a photo of s/n 14620, the actual aircraft that I wish to depict. I was hoping for coloured propeller spinners as per some pics of OV-10’s but no such luck. Black they will be. Other interesting details in the pic, the Helmet hanging over the gun barrels, empty rocket pods, various crew equipment stowed in the aircraft and the access step deployed from the bottom of the fuselage, which I will deal with later. A small update. I have began to work on the clear parts. I feel that this area will determine how successful the model will look as a replica of the real thing. Lots of detail will be visible through the large windows and it is critical that as much effort goes into them as the rest of the model. I reckon the canopy frames look a bit underwhelming and in need of a bit of beefing up. There is lots of stuff attached to the frames and a lot of the access windows mechanisms will hang off them so they need to be a bit thicker. The Broncos that I have seen built up look a bit vacant in the cockpit. The windshield. I found a sheet of black styrene and cut off a thin strip. I pre curved this by dragging it through my fingers. The black styrene means I won’t have to be quite as diligent in masking and spraying the inner frames. I then tacked it to the inner frame with superglue. Once I was happy with the new inner frame position, I very carefully wicked Tamiya extra fine glue into the join around the circumference of the frame. Obviously a mess up here will mean disaster. I also added the thin duct that runs up the right side forward windshield glass glass frame that supplies fresh air to the small eyeball vent on the top of it, which I also scratch built from a couple of pieces of different sized plastic rod.
  13. 14 points
    Stevepd

    Panavia Tornado P.12 XZ630 1978

    Hi folks I’ve finished this tonight and have taken photo’s in the garage under LED lighting as it’s way too gusty outside. The story of this started for me as a kid spotting at Boscombe Down during any holiday. I vividly remember the Tornado there and it flying locally and over the ranges at Larkhill. Fast forward to modern times and information becomes available that the aircraft I was watching was XZ630. This was the 12th pre-production aircraft so wasn’t the final build standard. These aircraft were given “P” numbers and thus was known as P.12. The kit - I really only build 1/32 kits so when Revell released the kit, the spark happened. I gathered the Airies pit, Airbrake housing and Paragon flaps and slats, finally Paragons access ladder. I started this kit just under a year ago with a 4 month break to do a commission build of a 212. The cockpit was constructed but back dated by removing some switches and putting blank panels in. The ejection seat straps on the front seat were placed over the headbox waiting for an engineer to dive in and start her up. The resin airbrake housing was fitted by cutting out the kit part and fitting the resin replacement. A weather seal was added around the airbrake housing as I noticed it in reference photo’s. The resin exhaust were constructed and fitted but it looks like Airies didn’t plan on you using both as there is interference and the cans needs cut down and moved aft of the airbrake housing. The fin was modified as you’ll notice the lack of fillet below the rudder. The vortex generators were removed as it was clean but later they were retrofitted. I did learn that the RWR housing are different shapes for each country. The kit ones are flared outwards at the extreme tips which are for German aircraft, so these were thinned down for an RAF version. The tailplane leading edges were straightened removing the kink and reprofiling the leading edge. The intakes were modified in that there is a hump profile on the upper surface which was removed on production aircraft. There are also 3 visible vertical struts on the rear of the intake outlet. I scratch built the open panels for the ground power and comms on the lower side, down near the gun ports which you’ll notice have been flushed as this aircraft at the time didn’t have them fitted. The wing glove was a poor fit and the Paragon wasn’t brilliant, so I put backing plastic and on the inside, filled it with Plasto filler and pressed the kit part onto the wet filler. Once it was tacky I used a scalpel and created the groove and let it set. I wanted something different so I wanted to try Engine ground run guards. So through help on here I managed to get a couple of photo’s and ordered some mesh from “the mesh company”. With my bending tool and purely by eye I knocked up these, which look ok. I then added the strengthening ribs and sprayed then red. The period of the aircraft dictated wrap around camo with the tri-country roundels on the fin. The Antenna colours on the fin are a mottled brown colour which was actually quite easy to replicate. The Fin staining was Tamiya weathering pastels, the Green/Grey is Xtracrylix which was Windsor and Newton gloss varnished then decals applied and then Matt W&N varnished. The artistic license bit is the refuelling probe. This can be fitted with the guards but I couldn’t find a photo of it extended, but I wanted to add that key bit of detail. Photography is not my thing and there’s not much more to be said!. C65C9732-232F-4C09-824F-5F2DD69EF3F4 by Stephen Priestley-Dean, on Flickr 07A2E7B2-7E3F-4959-BA7E-E437194D5C05 by Stephen Priestley-Dean, on Flickr D71BFE01-ED62-4B60-A5F4-BED2580249B2 by Stephen Priestley-Dean, on Flickr D957F858-FCC5-4536-94CB-F4EF74AD2915 by Stephen Priestley-Dean, on Flickr BC196558-7E01-4A0A-97C1-CE2E61D21B8C by Stephen Priestley-Dean, on Flickr 1A87F4B5-1FF1-4B69-9F04-9FE6CFE70B78 by Stephen Priestley-Dean, on Flickr D6330E9C-DBB8-46E6-87F5-72DC24FB40FB by Stephen Priestley-Dean, on Flickr 46F17DB6-85E6-424F-B5A7-60A02E455FA9 by Stephen Priestley-Dean, on Flickr 8947E4B8-7DF6-47E7-94E2-2B1622143BD5 by Stephen Priestley-Dean, on Flickr B57C25D2-1685-4EB3-8242-55B6D1528EFB by Stephen Priestley-Dean, on Flickr F4345F25-BB41-42F7-A355-107049E56782 by Stephen Priestley-Dean, on Flickr 34EF27F8-221D-49D7-BBDF-F379E5923D18 by Stephen Priestley-Dean, on Flickr 70D0A82E-928E-4E7D-A6AE-A35773B37C2D by Stephen Priestley-Dean, on Flickr AFDCB954-6B56-44E7-AF7F-39E9CB21CA5D by Stephen Priestley-Dean, on Flickr 7F6598C3-BBA6-4B22-8963-9834923A6009 by Stephen Priestley-Dean, on Flickr F5EDCE22-EF2F-4266-9192-56C40188FD5A by Stephen Priestley-Dean, on Flickr 28D4A7DC-0280-41FB-888E-4163154CA787 by Stephen Priestley-Dean, on Flickr ABC9C2AD-0FB0-4285-8060-936C6989DE94 by Stephen Priestley-Dean, on Flickr Any questions please get in touch. The kit is going to the Boscombe Down Museum in a couple of weeks. Steve.
  14. 13 points
    SB20

    Tamiya P-51 Racer

    This is my Tamiya P-51 converted into the Reno racer "Bardahl Special". I scratch built the rear cockpit removing all surplus equipment including the fuel tank. I also removed all armament, and used a propeller from a Bearcat to create a P-51H propeller as used on this airframe. AMS resin drop tanks are used for the 150 gallon tanks that Bardahl carried during the race to Reno. Decals are from Draw Decals. I have another set of racer decals reroute since I enjoyed this build so much.
  15. 13 points
    Gisbod

    1/24 Airfix F6F-5 Hellcat

    Thanks, perhaps you could contact Airfix and get them to send cash - that would be great I wasn’t a Hellcat fan either, I just got the kit as a sample - but it’s totally grown on me, I’ve really enjoyed it. I didn’t fancy the dark blue finish either but it looks great on this size model. The stressed skin really gives the uniform finish some interest! I got the masks today from Top Notch and have just finished painting the markings. They are great and really easy to use as there’s only one colour to mask. Guy In progress!
  16. 12 points
    I'd like a few of these to build for friends - I seem to be spending a lot of time with Chipmunks these days! Some images I took at the beginning of June at the BullChip Meet (Bulldogs and Chipmunks), Abbevlle, France. 20 ship formation - 19 Chipmunks, one Bulldog (us). With apologies in advance to anyone that's already seen these on Facebook. Taxiing out: Lining-up on the active for a formation take off (groups of three): And some from within the formation: Blue skies... Iain
  17. 12 points
    Good news! I've just spoken with Robin, and he's just coming out the other side of a number of personal and health issues, but is OK. He's also completely remastered the Chipmunk kit, and plans to produce both British and Canadian versions, accommodating for the various differences. The canopies will be in clear resin, and Robin sent me some of photos to illustrate: At this stage, Robin thinks the kits will be ready some time later this year. He also noted that the one I have (and the subject of the review posted in this thread) is the only one ever produced from the original moulds, so it's a bit unique! I'm still gonna build it, though. Kev
  18. 11 points
    chrish

    1/24 Hellcat (out o the box)

    A test fit of the engine to the airframe shows (as usual) a very precise and excellent fit (in spite of my workmanship) I hope the great fit of this kits parts continues
  19. 11 points
    I grew up with "Radio Yerevan jokes." This whole situation reminds me of this joke: Radio Yerevan was asked: "Is it correct that Grigori Grigorievich Grigoriev won a luxury car at the All-Union Championship in Moscow? Radio Yerevan answered: "In principle, yes. But first of all it was not Grigori Grigorievich Grigoriev, but Vassili Vassilievich Vassiliev; second, it was not at the All-Union Championship in Moscow, but at a Collective Farm Sports Festival in Smolensk; third, it was not a car, but a bicycle; and fourth he didn't win it, but rather it was stolen from him." Radu
  20. 11 points
    Rick K

    Special Hobby Tempest V

    This build will represent the mount of RNZAF ace (20+ kills) Wing Commander Evan Mackie late May 1945. I chose this scheme for several reasons. I have a few Kiwi modeling friends. The scheme is absent of DDay stripes, small fuselage codes and absence of any ordnance will show the beautiful lines of the Tempest. Masking serial number and fuselage codes. Using Maketar masks and MRP NATO black the serial numbers are added. It's always special when I spot a seam well into the final finishing stages. Fuselage codes Mackie's initials are MRP Sky. On Deck - Gloss, stencil decals more gloss and weathering.
  21. 10 points
    patricksparks

    1:18 Hobbyboss AV-8B Harrier

    Had to use a little freindly pursuasion on the forward fuselage to get it closed up snuggly.
  22. 10 points
    The speed build has not been that speedy of late due to some personal issues but I am pushing through! I had a decal disaster with the large wing crosses but Eric G came through with some custom masks which worked out great!! Thanks Eric!! I then gave the model a wash with Mig neutral wash then applied the camouflage overspray using Wingnuts recommended mix of 50/50 flat varnish and XF 65. I will let the pictures do the talking from here! Thanks for looking in as always!!
  23. 10 points
    LSP_Kevin

    NASM He 219 is reassembled!!

    Here's one of Brian's photos that Rick posted on Facebook: Kev
  24. 10 points
    sandbagger

    Sopwith 'Swallow 1:32 scale

    Hi all, The engine supplied with the ‘Wingnut Wings’ kit is for the ‘Clerget’ 9B or 9Bf engines. However the last engine type to be fitted to the Sopwith ’Swallow’ was the ‘Le Rhöne’ 9J (110 hp), which is of a different design and copied by Germany as the ‘Oberursel’ Ur.II. Therefore I chose to use as a replacement engine the ‘CMK Master Models’ Le Rhöne 9J (110 hp) - (kit No.129-5105). The most obvious difference in external appearance between the ‘Le Rhöne’ and ‘Clerget’ rotary engines is that the valve push rods were fitted to the rear of the ‘Le Rhöne’ engine cylinders, whereas the ‘Clerget’ engine had these fitted at the front of the cylinders. Also the fuel/air induction pipes on both engine types were located at the rear of the cylinders, but whereas the ‘Clerget’ engine had these pipes connected to the rear of each cylinder head, those on the ‘Le Rhöne’ engine were connected at the side of each cylinder head. The push rods were replaced by 0.4 mm diameter Nickel-Silver tube and the ignition leads were twisted 0.125 mm diameter copper wire. The spark plugs were replaced using 0.5 mm and 0.3 mm diameter brass tube. The propeller boss and back plate were discarded as the I'll be using a wood 'Lang' propeller from 'Proper Plane'. Mike
  25. 9 points
    Jennings Heilig

    Eiko decals, anyone?

    We're for sure doing these in 1/48, but I need to gauge interest in a pared-down version in 1/32. I've done a complete set of stencils and the various iterations (of which there is a surprising number) of hinomarus, which we will sell separately. In 1/32 all of these won't be able to make the cut, but the more interesting ones definitely will. The good news is that with your own refs (lots available online) and some creative paint work, you'll be able to do a bunch of differently camouflaged DACT birds from the 1970s and '80s. The squadron markings and other stuff didn't change - just the camouflage. This composite (which, again, represents what we'll be doing in 1/48) shows every JASDF unit that operated the F-104J/DJ. Regarding the latter, with mixing and matching of serials, you'll be able to do them as well, since the markings are identical to the single seaters. The stencils will have the extra stuff required for the DJ. What think we?
  26. 9 points
  27. 9 points
    TomR

    ZM TA-152 Fritz Auffhammer all red scheme

    Well its finally time I post my first build thread here. Started this a little while back and the build is going pretty well. I can say that ZM's quality has gone up massively since they got started 10 years ago. This kit is one of their first and while the detail is really remarkable , the fit of some of the parts, especially the engine is not great. I guess building Tamiya and Wingnut wings can spoil you. I'm planning the scheme based of Fritz Auffhammer's Red test model aircraft. Its a pretty striking scheme that I've always wanted to do. Cockpit has come out really good in my opinion, probably one of my best yet. This was tricky because the instrument panel and firewall didn't fit right so getting everything straight and aligned was not easy. As you can tell the weathering is very minimal save for some light dirt. My reason is this aircraft being a factory early production and test bird likely would have had maybe 100 hrs or so on it by the end of the war. So except for some muddy boots I don't think the cockpit saw much wear and tear. The engine had a pretty significant gap where the oil pan was attached. Perfect use for loctite UV adhesive. a couple of layers and some test fitting sealed up the gap almost flawlessly. the gap was right at the front of the engine under the main gear housing. All filled in. Supercharger is also done though I still need to paint that little oil filler cap. Time to finish up the engine and add a bit of weathering to it. Hope you guys enjoy the build
  28. 9 points
    Gisbod

    1/24 Airfix F6F-5 Hellcat

    Morning, afternoon, evening, I’m racing ahead now and I’ve added the top coat of MRP Sea Blue. It’s turned out pretty much how I envisaged it, so I can’t complain. It’s a darker shade towards the ‘correct’ colour of a Midnight Blue, but I still can see the pre shading, although it may not be that apparent in the photos. I’ve also started on the markings - I’ve ordered a set of Top Notch masks that represent one of the in box colour options: ‘32’ from VF-12, USS Randolph, May 1945. Hopefully they won’t be too long as I’m waiting on them now.
  29. 9 points
    patricksparks

    1:18 Hobbyboss AV-8B Harrier

    Took a big step today, I glued the rear of the fuselage together, I left the forward half un-glued as I have to fit the cockpit portion in between the intakes, it's how the kit was designed for assembly with no glue, it's kind of a pain as you have to stay aware of what can go together at what time. also put a little paint over the rivit decals to have a look.
  30. 9 points
    Pastor John

    AIMS 32D017 Fw 190 A-8/R2 decals

    Hi everyone, a small budget sheet for the 1/32 Revell Fw 190 A-8/R2 as I had some space left on another decal sheet I needed to fill. Enjoy. Should be available by end of September
  31. 9 points
    seiran01

    Wingnut's Floating Gotha

    Just a quick Gotha UWD update as I had a moment to redo the floats. Will add a bit of streaky clear smoke over the dark wooden areas still, but you get the idea of the effect I’m going for on the bitumous tar-covered floats and tail area of the plane. Green will still be repainted after a few fixes of sanding I missed.
  32. 9 points
    mozart

    Last and (nearly) First!

    Time to show that I've not been entirely neglecting my latest build efforts, though I have been diverted researching Lightning pictures and schemes I must admit! Anyway, the cockpit painting's coming along quite nicely, a tiny bit of colour here and there plus a couple of placards to add, though from photographs that I've seen there was precious little in red warning lights and labels. I'm using Ted Taylor's build as a guidance, those of you more experienced with Revell's kits will know that their instructions leave a lot to be desired when it comes to clarity! One useful point that Ted makes with the air intake assembly is to glue the side walls only along their mating edge with the central trunking, thus giving flexibility when the front edges have to engage with the forward fuselage area. Good tip!! I'm a bit concerned about the aft end; I'm using a Mk 9 kit which features a parabrake housing behind the rudder, but I'm representing a Mk 6 of 56 squadron which didn't have the parabrakes fitted. However, redefining (read "butchering") the top aft fuselage isn't by any means a simple straightforward job.....time consuming is the least of the (potential) difficulties which may arise. Suck it and see I guess........
  33. 9 points
    Radub

    Chattanooga 2019 convention

    Here are some of my photos of Bill Bosworth's work taken at the show. Radu
  34. 9 points
    I think they should be given an awful lot of slack, they've released some pretty esoteric subjects so far, who else would have produced a Bronco, Trojan, Havard, Mirage 2000, and, fingers crossed, a Jaguar . Everyone has bills to pay, books to balance.
  35. 8 points
    More.... Thank you for looking! Gaz
  36. 8 points
  37. 8 points
    Whilst meeting with Graham the other day, I was able to get him to sign a book that I have had since I was working on Mac Cottrells O-1 Birddog. The book is ‘Hit my Smoke’ and is well worth a read for anyone interested in FAC’s in Vietnam. It contains personal accounts written by 22 of the 36 RAAF pilots that served in that capacity during the war. Some very interesting stories indeed. The cover of the book is an edited version of Graham’s original photo of him rocketing an abandoned ship for practice, looking over his shoulder. The interesting detail for me is the Kangaroo painted on Graham’s helmet, reflected in the rear view mirrors. As the OV-10 that I am making was not adorned with a Kangaroo, as was the frowned upon practice, I will incorporate his helmet into the build somehow. I believe the painting of the iconic Kangaroo on Aussie flown aircraft was a cat and mouse game, pilots painting them on the noses of all 3 of the main FAC aircraft and Crew Chiefs painting over them when they were rotated through major bases during servicing. I have found the kit is a little light on in some of the detail which I have started to fix. One of the things that has stuck in my mind that Graham mentioned is the more challenging aspect of the FAC’s sortie, and that was to manage the multitude of radios that communicated to the many different aspects of the mission at hand. It is of great importance to me that I try as hard as I can to incorporate this important part of the aircraft into this model. Firstly, the instrument panel coaming has these 3 small blobs of plastic that are expected to be mounted to it. Nothing special about them at all! The gunsight and selector panel/compass has been done as a rather flat and awkward looking combined part. I wanted something a bit better from all of these parts and decided to fix them. I was lucky enough to be sent a copy of the Illustrated parts catalogue (Thanks a lot Mark) which enabled me to get a really good appreciation of how everything fits together. If someone goes to the trouble to send me stuff like this I will always try and reciprocate by detailing the parts as much as I can. I split up the gunsight and selector panel, and ditched the compass. drilled out the gunsight to enable a clear lense to be fitted later on. I made up some boxes to mock up how everything has going to fit together The small radio selector boxes made up with a couple of different diameters if brass tube to simulate switches and knobs. Copper to do the wiring. Fitted, with the map box made from plastic card and flap from Tamiya tape. The newly separated gunsight and selector panel. I have beefed up the gunsight a bit and lowered it a fair bit from where it would have been. The selector panel, has been made from a section of thick plastic card and brass. Painted. The compass and mirrors will be the next things to be added to this area. The next thing to be fixed was the missing fuel tank filler panel in the centre of the wing. Like the 5th step, this has been completely forgotten about by Kittyhawk. As it is right on top, it will be highly visible. I scribed a new panel and screws using a sewing needle mounted in a pin vice and a combination of a few different photo etch scribing templates. Whilst I was in this area, I scribed the also missing push in hand grip panel. (Right wing only) The next challenge will be to depict the fuel tank filler caps which are present in the larger of the two circles on each of the 5 fuel tank locations. Kittyhawk have not depicted them on these panels. You can just see them in these 2 pics of the Australian War Memorials example that is under restoration.
  38. 8 points
    cbk57

    Needed Getaway

    I took a personal vacation and went backpacking in New Hampshire for 4 days. Here are a couple photos from a Mountain known as West Bond. It was brutally hard but an amazing trip. I took my first multi day solo backpacking trip. It was increadibly hard country but I really enjoyed most of it. The middle section on the second and third day was unpleasant at times as it was up and down with a lot of boulders. In the end it was really worth and I think after I have time to forget how hard it was I am going to want to go back for more.
  39. 8 points
    Gazzas

    My Raffle Prize: Final Update 21/Aug/19

    Hi again, I'm glad to say that we are standing on all three! At first once the wheels were down, the starboard side wingtip was 15mm higher than the portside. Fortunately I discovered this while the glue was still soft. The main problem was that one gear was too far forward. Attached the pilot's step, too. I added a pitot tube made of .7mm brass tube with a .5mm brass rod inserted. I used copper wire to effect the landing gear indicators on each wing. I'll have to add a 'brunt-effect' to the exhaust stubs. Was glad to finally lift the masks from the windscreen. Thanks for looking! We're real close, now! Gaz
  40. 8 points
    vvwse4

    Bristol Beaufighter

    Still working on the Beaufighter. The interieur is finished. Or I am finished with it which is closer to the truth. Made the observers seat and some instruments. The ammo boxes are covered with thissue soaked in white glue. I saw pictures of zipped ammo boxes which allowed me to get an easy escape from a potentional big problem. Tossed in some lines and cables ad voila that should do the trick. 110_6242 by Rick Martens, on Flickr 110_6244 by Rick Martens, on Flickr 110_6243 by Rick Martens, on Flickr 110_6248 by Rick Martens, on Flickr Now I most focus on the engines. They look ok but as far as I know the exhausts came together in a collective ring in the front of the cowling and from there on to the main exhaust. I have no idea how to replicate that now but time will tell I guess. Also some brake lines on the landing gear and after that time for paint. Due to some construction work in our house I am not able to airbrush, hopefully in October everything will be done so I can start throwing paint around. Hope you like it, sorry for the lousy pictures. Rick.
  41. 8 points
    hello all, made an other platform this time for the warninglights, just under the radardome the disks to make the warninglights, thickness 0,5 mm radius 2x5mm, 6x4mm, 1x3mm, 1x1mm, 2 of the 4mm are glued onto each other this is the end result making of the watertight doors, cut 2 sheets of plastic 0,5mm in thickness, 40mm x 20mm and 38mm x 18mm, draw some round cornersin the corners roughly cut of the corners and sand , one side sanded first glue the smaller one, on top of that glue the larger door, it will gave the impression the door is off the wall, a piece of strip is rounded , this will be the hinges the base for the hinges will be glued upright, 4 spreus are cut, these will come against the base 4 small dots are made by punch and die set , these will represent the hinge shaft the small dots glued onto the hinge door handle and gutter is cut from L-sprue door grip is made, a piece of fine sprue which is bent to shape the result with flagbag above it, the flagbag is made a few days ago last photo is this piece on the LSM enjoy, Rammstein
  42. 8 points
    Rick K

    Special Hobby Tempest V

    While the gloss cures I'll work on the Prop. Roy 's Prop Assembly Jig is brilliant on many levels. The measure for 4' yellow tip is accurate. To assist in masking the tip I extended the tip color break just beyond the blade outline. I primed each blade with Gunze 1500 Black then applied a shot of light grey (to decrease yellow paint build up) on the tip area followed by yellow. After paint cure I placed each prop on the jig and carefully placed tape at the 4" mark. Each blade gets a coat of MRP77 NATO Black. Mask removed...all good. Interior of back plate gets a shot of Alclad116 Semi-Matt aluminum. For me I wanted just a peek of unpainted metal at root of prop blade. Is it accurate? Not sure. I'll get a nice color break from the prop hub and blade. Using 15 minute epoxy i set the blade in position and carefully adjust according to the jig. I let complete cure before I move on to next blade. The prop spinner got painted with MRP255 Black Night Camouflage. This gives a nice contrast between the prop spinner and blades. After near complete epoxy cure I slip on the prop spinner to double check alignment. All four blades mounted and cured the prop hub is carefully glued in place. The prop spinner easily fits on the back plate after all blades glued. Test fit of complete prop assembly. You can see the contrast black between spinner and blades. Pardon the dust. Look at prop root and you can see the aluminum color inside of back plate.
  43. 8 points
    Thanks for the interest Gent's, but don't worry, it's just that I wanted to finish the Arado diorama for Kevin and the skeletal Fokker before AROS in three weeks time. Then I will be back full time on the Aeromarine, in fact I can't wait to get back at it! Cheers: Kent
  44. 8 points
    red Dog

    Spitfire MkIX 1/24 349 sqn

    Thanks for the vote of confidence Brian I'm back on the bench. Actually I never was away because I had the chance to initiate a kid to aircrfat modelling during the holidays We built a 1/48 F4U-7 Corsair together in two weeks and I think/hope he might be hooked To progress with the Mk IX conversion, I needed first to progress with the Tamiya spitfire model i'm building as well. I wanted to check the position of the intake under the engine. It seems that Heritage model positionning is quite matching the tamiya design which is good enough for me to proceed. I decided to address the insane gap with milliput from inside the engine cowling. After sqeezing the milliput in, I pressed the intake from outside into its position and smoothed the milliput from outside with wet fingers and paintbrushes It's ugly but who cares? The aft end of the intake is cut at a right angle but the kit part will be mated and sanded to shape More putty (squadron), more sanding .. you all know the drill Lots of details are being lost but to be honest most of the rivets needs to be smoothed down or even completely regraved anyway.
  45. 8 points
    Thanks Terry, You know between this and the Desert Rat, I'm not sure who'll be finished first the way I'm going! Anyway, back home after 6 weeks in the States, I've found some time finally to get some runs on the board with the C..... First up was the rudder pedals and centre pedestal, followed by the permanent fixing of the two rear seats in the cockpit. I really like the green I ended up with Then, in a change of direction I decided to get done something I've been procrastinating about for a while - the nose windows. I covered the interior of the nose section with putty in an attempt to replicate the soundproofing felt. How successful that will be remains to be seen, but it has made the walls quite thick. I drew up some frames in Rhino and printed them on the Photon; still have a huge amount to learn about resin printing! Once cleaned up, each will form the inside border for the window. On the outside, the windows will be oversize acrylic which will be sanded and shaped, then the final window dimensions will be depicted by the aluminium skin. Takes a lot of grinding and test fitting to set each one as they are bevelled to allow support of the acrylic pieces..... Then fixed in place with epoxy. On the last photo you can see how the support will work so my clear bits don't fall in More of that, then hopefully some colour and fitting out of the nose section to come soon! Cheers, Craig
  46. 8 points
    Artful69

    Make the others jealous

    *** JUST KIDDING *** Had this one for a while ... Just signed up with Imgur though ... so this is a test run ... seems to work Rog
  47. 8 points
    BNicklas

    NASM He 219 is reassembled!!

    Gear on, tonight is engines. things are progressing! Brian N.
  48. 8 points
    We are in desperate need of a decent, early A3/4 Fw- 190. On top of that , what a great time for 1/32nd scale ! We get new release every six months, this use to be unheard of 10 years back. Despite my spoiled nature I do appreciate every new release in 1/32 and it doesn't matter if it's my favourite type/marking/etc..
  49. 8 points
    hello all, some more work on the bridge and on overlapping the spaces on vehicle deck one more photo of ruddes and props lower part of the bow made and bow ramp placed bow ramp seen from vehicle deck so far the easy part has been done , now it is fitting out time, some 20mm dry fitted bulwarks in place enjoy, Rammstein
  50. 8 points
    Rick K

    Special Hobby Tempest V

    MRP110 Dark Green. Hard to show up on the black base. It really is marbled! Look close.
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