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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/17/2020 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    We have some test shots of new products to share. It will be a few weeks before they can be offered for sale, but a little preview can't hurt! Grumman TBF/M-3 "Avenger" MLGS 007 (Trumpeter kit) Douglas SBD-1/2/3/5 "Dauntless" MLGS 008 (Trumpeter kit) Note: The brake lines are molded in place as with the original kit part. North American P-51D "Mustang" MLGS 009 (Revell kit) Nakajima Ki-84 "Hayate" MLGS 010 (Hasegawa kit) Kyushu J7W1 "Shinden" MLGS 011 (Zoukei-Mura kit) Note: This is only an example of the main gear leg. The nose gear leg is to come soon. Thanks for taking a look. Happy to answer any questions! D.B.
  2. 5 points
    Now that the Pup and the Roland have been kicked into touch, I'm back on this: That stupid little windscreen held me up for ages. I couldn't work out how to make something to keep the front edge curved that followed the fuselage. I tried thin sheet and bent angle, nothing worked. Then I found a huge roll of really thin transparent stuff behind a cupboard, cut a bit of that, bent it around a cocktail stick and stuck it in place with CA. Just like that! I'll fit the rear one when the rigging is done, otherwise I'll knock it off Richard
  3. 5 points
    Not trying to poach on a fellow model site but in the interests of accuracy and to respond to those unsure of the authenticity of the Wingnut comments re coronavirus, I can confirm the post was on forum.WW1aircraftmodels.com and I wrote it. Copper State Models announced on their Facebook page that their new kits were affected by the coronavirus factory shutdown in China. I emailed Richard at Wingnuts and asked what the impact would be on Wingnuts production and his reply was published in detail on the forum. Also please note, while the Forum requires a person to register before they can post anything, the forum is free to read for anyone, and will always be so. cheers Dave Wilson Forum.WW1aircraftmodels.com
  4. 4 points
    red Dog

    Spitfire MkIX 1/24 349 sqn

    and the chipping frenzy got worse on the other side: I usually use chipping fluid with tamiya or gunze acrylics, it is the first time I use them with MRP, and I'm happy to report that (as expected) it works fine. Maybe even too fine - probably a consequence of my 3 layers of chipping fluids, I won't do that anymore) For the chipping effect, I apply water with a brush where I want the chipping, let it soak for a bit then scraxt with the two sponges or the needle and rub accordingly. IMHO it's much better than any result I can get with a fine brush and silver paint. Next step was to paint the yellow ID bands and the propeller tips. Masking the ID band and the prop tip wasn't a problem and a base coat of white was airbrushed. I still prefer airbrushing the light colours on a white coat otherwise I Always end up with too thick a coat of paint which tends to have a step effect from the camouflage colours. After white paint was applied on the prop tips, I discovered yet another air Bubble in the resin, which screamed to be filled For these corrections, I usually use water based Vallejo putty which is not very good for large correction because it sinks a lot. But it quickly dries and two quick applications of putty each being wiped with a watered Q-tip made short work of the hole The ID bands and the prop tips where then sprayed marker yellow Previous to that the wingtip lights were added and sanded flush with the wings. That removed paint but I will correct that later on. I'm sure I will have many other paint correction soon... To try to keep these to a minimum I coated the model with semi gloss MRP twice, hoping that would prevent the paint to lift too much during the masking sessions. Now I realise that using 3 coats of scratching effect was Indeed overkill and that it would have been better to plan ahead and avoid scratcing product where masks are supposed to be applied at later stages …
  5. 4 points
    Subodai

    1/32 Revell Mk IXc

    Managed to find a small amount of time to get some of the solid base colours down. I applied some 'light aircraft grey' to the underside, and then realised I wanted to try pre-shading a bit, never done that before.. so.. did some of that and then applied the main upper grey and green. First ever attempt at pre-shading (wow this step makes you feel bad) Then after application of the main grey And then after the green. Not a lot else to report, yet. I've got the 'sky' colour to apply on the fuselage band (I think there's a decal, but I want to spray it) and then I'll probably do some pre-shading on the bottom and re-apply that grey as it's a bit monotone currently... After that, I believe it's Gloss coat, decals, glosscoat, weathering right? Apologies the photos are a bit dark, I was masked up so they were just quick snaps before evacuating! Cheers
  6. 4 points
    I conquered the flaps today. Well, maybe not conquered but at least they are done. I'll spray them with metal primer and then some paint to see how they turned out... hard to see right now. The top of the flaps go here. I'll have to remove the raised spars on the kit wing but that should be easy with a pair of cutters. The upper wings have been riveted.
  7. 4 points
    Better? And the lower section
  8. 4 points
    painting overall white surfacer MRP RLM 65 as base for undersides shaded with mixture of base RLM 65 colour and MRP smoke thanks for looking jan
  9. 3 points
    Timmy!

    T-45C Goshawk 1/32nd Scale Drawings

    Hello All, I finally finished up my drawings for the 1/32nd Goshawk conversion I completed last year. Goshawk Build Thread Here is the download link: T-45C Drawings for Revell Hawk Kit.
  10. 3 points
    skiner

    Me 262 Trumpy, paints and photos

    Hi friends Here my last job with my Me 262 Trumpeter. When I saw these Photos 3 years ago I decided to built the same. The main challenge . How to translate these Black and White pictures in color ...
  11. 3 points
    Miloslav1956

    A6M7 Model 62 1/32 Hasegawa

    A6M7 Model 62, 302 Kokutai Model Hasegawa 1/32 HGW rivets, wet transfers, seat belts & mask Eduard wheels All colour MRP test set IJN Marking mask home made
  12. 3 points
    Anthony in NZ

    Unique opportunity 1/32 Andover C1

    Email sent chaps! We have a total of 4 kits ordered and I also asked about your YS-11EB Thierry Thanks to all for your interest and orders Cheers Anthony
  13. 3 points
    Thank you all for your kind words. IMPORTANT: drill the entry hole of each and every cable BEFORE assembling the wings. It's vital and also the most tedious part of the process. A few observations about assembling the double wings. A serious modeller would have built a jig to correctly align the dihedral and stagger of the wings. Always the lazy me, I decided I could do without and tried to dry-fit the upper wing using only the provided wing struts. The whole thing was wobbly and kept collapsing every time even with the judicious advice that the ever resourceful Max Mozart gave me. In the end, I decided to trust ICM and firmly glued the 4 struts to the upper wing. I let the glue dry and harden overnight. The morning after, I offed the upper wing/struts assembly to the lower wing/fuselage and... miracle, IT WORKED! After I checked that everything was tried and true, I glued the wings and added the cabane struts. Now it started looking a Glad... and reading to go through the final and dreaded stage: the RIGGING. As this is my first time, I spent much time studying the different methods and spying the other modellers – including our own Max's work. I tried glues and different materials and never shied away from the odd mad-scientist experiment like this hairy F-9 Panther wing: In conclusion, this is what I will be using for my rigging: – elastic mono-filament 0,25mm and 0,30mm thread. Prym and unknown make – end-pieces from Albion Alloys micro-tube 1mm/0,25mm inside – UV-curing glue End-pieces are 3mm-long segments of the micro-tube cut using a home-made jig. Thread each length of thread with 2 end-pieces Thread the Prym in one entry point. Apply glue. Attach the other side making sure that the thread is taut. Nothing's worse than a sagging line; When dry, slide the micro-tubes to each end. And voilà. Next time: the finish line. Until then, Cheers, Quang
  14. 3 points
    Dandiego

    XB-51 Dragon

    Yes Brian she is big. Be sure to bring your massive-meter to Vegas with you. Here she is outside with a 12" ruler and a Model Master spray can for comparison. Dan
  15. 2 points
    red Dog

    Spitfire MkIX 1/24 349 sqn

    Some colour depth for the grey and green added. It's too visible on purpose for now as I expect further treatment to tone this all down: First the grey: with a drop of Medium seay grey added rather than white looks like my 3 coats of scratching effect are already working, paint comes off even with no scratching …. i have the feeling it may have been a bit overdone Then the green: (base colour + a drop of white.) Minor chipping started as I couldn't hold it any longer
  16. 2 points
    I finished rigging my Glad yesterday and went to a friend’s place to show it. I left it there Instead of bringing it home because the Dennis storm was raging I’ll take it back this afternoon. We’ll see how the rigging look on the pics. Q
  17. 2 points
    Palm-tree

    F-117A • Nighthawk

    Brian was working on an F-117 model and a replacement intake grill set in 1/32 but nothing has happened so far
  18. 2 points
    I used a vise and appropriate shims to hold the rivet wheel handle in the correct height I needed for a rivet line around a MiG-3 spinner. You then rotate your part against the rivet wheel. This has to be rigid relative to the flat surface where your part is, as wheel has a tendency to ride up the side of the conical part when pressure is applied. With different shims you can plan the various rows of rivets you will need to do. I hope this is clear! Alain
  19. 2 points
    Palm-tree

    F-117A • Nighthawk

    The photos are pretty rare. You are correct the central cutout appears where the chute is anchorred but if you look closely there are two arms - the lighter areas on either side of the bay further aft- are they something to help the chute deploy correctly without compromising the controllability of the ruddervators?
  20. 2 points
    LSP_K2

    WNW 2020: New kits and announcements...

    Thanks very much, Dave. While I'm a member there, I'm sort of out of WWI mode at the moment, but when the new Dr.I is released, I'll be posting it up there as well as here. I am so looking forward to that (and getting busy with my D.VII's).
  21. 2 points
    Alain Gadbois

    Fw190 V21 prototype

    Thanks! Glad that you come take a look and comment! Thank you, this is great encouragement! So I have completed the main detailing work in the wheel wells, that tuned out to be much more complex than I first thought! The uplock mechanism was completed with details from Ta 152 drawings that show diagonal braces added. It will be time to prime and paint RLM02. A few wires and cables still need to be added, a bit later, as they will certainly be broken off until some more assembly is done. Now a little step that is so simple that I managed to mess up! I glued in one underwing insert (CA and plastic glue), and the fit was excellent, but the profile of the part was different than the wing, leaving a noticeable lower surface relative to the wing in some areas! I tried to bend to improve but this looked like something would break. I went from inside the wing and removed material until the insert was visible. I managed to slip in the necessary shims until the exterior surface was even with the wing. For the second one I added just one styrene shim and test fit before gluing and fit was perfect. The joints were filled with CA and scrapped and sanded soon after curing so they would not be too hard. Now I have to finish the engine section to be able to join the fuselage halves together, and then turn again to the exterior of the engine panels. Bye for now! Alain
  22. 2 points
    Hey Tim- I cut off the molded-on ones..then made 2 new ones by slicing off some styrene rod for the knobs, and then attached some styrene levers to the knobs. I don’t worry too much about getting the lever length the same until the knobs are attached. Once I have two rough ones, I’ll trim the levers to the same length. here is a look at a few map lights coming together. I use double sided tape to keep tiny parts from flying away. Also; I’ve had a bag of random wristwatch parts for years..I use this to find assorted tiny details/shapes that might be useful- in this case I’m searching for 3 identical posts for the map lights. You can find a bag of watch parts on eBay for a few bucks- cheers Pete
  23. 2 points
    I inquired regarding this subject a week ago and received the following from Richard Alexander on February 9" "Hi Ron, Thank you for your inquiry and concern. Most people in China are taking extended New Year holidays at present. There will no doubt be some additional procedures that the people who are transporting goods from factories in mainland China to ports will need to contend with. So there probably will be some delays but as it is a developing situation no one can estimate what delays (if any) there will be to Wingnut Wings production. The biggest determining factor remains the fact that no Wingnut Wings model will go into production until I have approved the tooling. Regards Richard Richard Alexander General Manager Wingnut Wings LTD PO Box 15-319, Miramar 6022, Wellington, New Zealand www.wingnutwings.com"
  24. 2 points
    Tolga ULGUR

    1/32 Revell Junkers Ju-88A-1

    This is 1/32 Revell Junkers Ju-88A-1 of KG54 Battle of Britain Campaign France, September 1940. Eduard intrument panel CMK Ju 88A seats Q32105 Quickboost Ju-88A-1 exhaust set QB32059 Ju-88 A1-A5 resin corrected rudder Airdoc Ju-88 small tires for A1-A5 MDC Ju-88A bomb racks Master Model Gun barrels Painting with Gunze Sangyo acrylics You can see full build story by using the following link in WIP section.
  25. 2 points
    John1

    Forgotten War Mustang

    Final update of the weekend, I completed work on the underside, added some bits for the open MG bay (the door is just a press-fit, I've got to add some details in that area) and continued weathering the upper sides. Not entirely happy with the worn out USAF (particularly the U and the S). More work to be done here. Still have some cleanups to do in certain areas but we're getting there....
  26. 2 points
    small progress on henschell engines installed thanks for looking jan
  27. 2 points
    Greif8

    WNW Albatros DV

    This build is finished. I will post it in the "Ready for Inspection" section once I finish the base for it. Following are some photos of the finished model.
  28. 2 points
    Time to pick up were I left the 'dreidekkers' - Still got a diorama to do... The photo's I'm using as inspiration for the diorama: The 'walkway' in the front, that would be a nice feature to add. I also want to add a lot of crew and ground personnel. This is a nice shot showing the preparations for a 'sortie'. German staff car has been in the making, on and off, for some time now... This is were I left it, almost a year ago... The last week or so, I've had time to refresh and practice the spoke wheel technique to make some wheels for the car... The Fokker 'dreidekker' triple are ready. The half 'dreidekker' is ready as well... Hope I will be able to get somewhere with this in the foreseeable future.. Kent
  29. 2 points
    mozart

    Lukgraph DH 89 Rapide

    For those of you contemplating modelling this wonderful aeroplane, I offer the following drawings:
  30. 2 points
    Hello! Herewith my first LSP - for that matter, first build of any sort - in more than 40 years. It represents a warbird rendition (hence the modern VHF aerial on the finished thing) of an aircraft from 12e Escadrille, Forces Armées Bretonnes, in Algeria in support of the French operation there in the 50s. My intention with this bird was to learn and a "what if" subject allowed me to experiment without having to worry about faithfully capturing a real aircraft. That said, I did set myself something to aim at: Did I succeed? Well, I'll let you decide - she's never going to win any prizes but for a first go, I'm happy with the result. When I'm a bit better at all this I might revisit her with a slightly more battered "in service" finish, in European theatre colours. Paint and satin finish are Vallejo, some Xtracrylix used in the cockpit, gloss layer is Alclad Aqua and helped along by brass gun barrels, resin main wheels and various scratch stuff. Markings all masked, the few stencils are HGW wet transfers. Build thread is here . and the only pic of the cockpit I have, currently (I know the armour plate should be black... apparently the owner doesn't ) Cheers! Sepp
  31. 2 points
    Hi everyone, Thank you for your messages, I'm glad you like it. It's moving, certainly not fast, but it's moving forward. The rear partition with the seat. See you soon, Sweety
  32. 2 points
    Good old Halfords grey plastic primer to check for errors and touch ups. Somebody asked what the join was like on the wing root where I'd cut.
  33. 2 points
    Thanks John! The fuselage has been riveted. A look at the holes cut into the wing bottom for the ammo chutes. Here's what the Quickboost guns look like mounted in the cowling. The kit wheels look pretty good even compared to the Barracuda resin wheels.
  34. 2 points
    I realised I never posted picture of the finished setup. Sorry about that. With both model finished, I needed to make the link between the two. The basket was done with different parts from the scratch box (rods, guitar wires and photoetch parts initially meant for a EF2000 exhaust fan,...) The guitar wires are a bit larger than what the real part should be but at least give proper structure to the basket. The PE part for structure was then hidden under strips of paper towel washed in PVA glue + water and let to dry and the process was repeated until I was happy with the texture of the basket. The A-7 probe fits nicely into the basket allowing proper connection between the 2 aircraft. The fuel hose is a metal hanger cut to length and painted black. distance marks were painted light brown every 10 feet scaled down to 1/32 The metal rod is inserted into the KA-6D reel The base is made of black painted MDF. I wanted the base to be sober not to attract too much attention from the eyes of the viewers. Getting the support transparent rods angle right took a few attempts The 2 aircraft are offset from each other as clearly seen from the following picture: Pictures of the finished setup: First the final intruder: Then the A-7 And the finished diorama: Attempt on a blue background: And a photoshop essay on a sky background Sorry for the time it took to uplaod final pictures, after finishing the model, I discovered dust inside the A6 canopy and had to remove it, clean it and reassemble it in place. It took me quite a while to get there. But this one is finally complete. And it was quite a journey !! Thank you all for looking.
  35. 2 points
  36. 2 points
    Dandiego

    XB-51 Dragon

    I have painted the interior of the middle intake with Alclad Aluminium. When dry the whole assembly is glued to the fuselage. And there is a little bit of putty needed to get a smooth surface. I think I will call this "the red-speckled gray-backed Dragon". Dan
  37. 1 point
    Gerhard

    Commercial Airline models

    Hi Guys, my kids recently took a trip overseas, and they flew with Turkish Airlines on an Airbus A330-300. They now asked if I would build them a model of said plane. Where is the best place to source these, my Google skills are failing me.
  38. 1 point
    Tens of thousands of people are getting sick and thousands are dying. Yes, it means that there might be a little delay in getting our latest WNW and other model kits. Not going to worry about it as there are other priorities in life in getting the latest plastic.
  39. 1 point
    Gerhard

    Commercial Airline models

    Cant find a kit anywhere though, a few on Ebay, but crazy prices.
  40. 1 point
    Subodai

    1/32 Revell Mk IXc

    Hello all, lurked for a little while and joined recently for inspiration and a push to keep my recently refound love for this hobby. It's been quite a few years since I've put paint to plastic so I'm hoping this isn't just another Hobby phase. We shall see... I attended the big model show in Telford and got 'the itch' bought a bunch of different paints to test and play with, as well as some btis and pieces that postage costs had made prohibitive to try... I've always pined over a whole bunch of 1/32nd Jets, in particular F-14s .. most Jets with twin tails seem to just do it for me.. But I've never had the cash or time to really get into it. Queue a nice bonus at work and decided to sploosh a bit on some kits, found a cheap seller in China on eBay and managed to get a nice little haul... However I don't trust myself and wanted to ease into it.. so picked up this thing quite cheap and have been quietly mulling away at it since Christmas. It's a pretty much OOB build, this is all just me getting used to the tools and paints and all the shiny new things that are available that were definitely NOT as easy to get hold of before. I don't think this will be anything like top notch show worthy and I'm not a rivet counter so accuracy on this kit isn't really that much of a thing for me, I just want to be happy with the end result. it's literally just dipping my toes in the water, seeing if I get the bite.. And giving me something to do that doesn't always involved using a computer or screen all the time (even if I am currently limited to my office desk). Anywho enough wafflin' have some photos! Getting down to business with the internals, attemping some basic stuff with weathering (never done that before, especially not with oils) Turned out okay Pit part-painted and test fitting, I used the kit provided decal for the dials, it wasn't super accurate in some places (mostly the dials on the right) but it gave me a chance to try microset and microsol for the first time.. WOW that stuff is magic. Pit now assembled, gloss coated, oil washed, and flat coated Micro Krystal clear added to some dials for depth, I'm aware it's too much now.. but hey ho.. Also realised I had bought the worlds most expensive PVA glue... lesson learned... Marrying up the wings after painting the wheel well and inner surfaces with the green called out in the instructions More parts setting up, also a view of the not-so-great paint on the inner fuselage, post oil-wash and such. FIrst time really having a proper go at deleting a seam and getting a nice finish, was pretty happy with the result. Definitely justifies how much I blew on sanders!! Fuselage setting up, yep, no pit.. I actually found it easier to get a nice bond without the pit fitted, got the plastic properly welded then slotted the pit in from underneath to give the fuselage the proper width to marry up with the wing roots, worked perfectly! A dry-fit of the main fuselage bottom engine cover and wings (glued and seams removed on all) Never done glazing masking before, so this was just after they were Krystal cleared in after cutting the masks and before filling the gaps First layer of paint on the glass frames to match the interior colour, after filling and smoothing out the gap in front of the main screen (seems to be the done thing, might not be the accurate colour though :S ) put FAR too much paint in the airbrush so used it as a way to check my seams.. all seems fine. Tried to rescribe a few lines with my dandy new Tamiya scribing tool... didn't go well... wibbly wobbly lol Realised I'd filled most of the rivet holes in the nose so had a bosh at trying to sand that back a bit and re-drill them (far too big and deep it would seem after later priming) Fuselage and wings now setting up Test fit of the bottom nose cowel.. thing after having sprayed the interior of it black (before realising it has a blanking piece inside that I missed DOH!). Also did a small amount of pre-painting to the inside of the radiators before fitting them. Radiators assembled and fitted required a little persuation on one of them for it to lay 'flat' but looks fine. Front cowel thing is now also attached And you'll have to forgive me, I missed a few steps between, but, this is now after being primed with Mr Surfacer 1500.. which is _amazing_ stuff. I've never used anything that gives such a silky smooth finish (after a super light pass with 600 grit). It did however, probably give me a little cancer as I grossly underestimated how much I would need, how long it would take and how much it would gas me out... Immediately ordered a Respirator and had a good root through for the power supply for my extractor (not been in use since we moved house a few years ago). And this is where I am still, I have since refilled, sanded and reprimed the way-overdone holes and used a Trumpeter rivet tool to re-do the rivets in the top covers but don't have a photo of that yet. I was waiting on the right colour paints, which after seeing someone elses Mosquito build, I picked up some of MRPs colours, but finding the right time to spray lacquer (the Mr Surfacer probably took a few years off my life) I just haven't had the time yet. Thanks if you got this far! (and sorry for the monolithic post) This is my first 'OP' here so if I've screwed up, missed something, or done a massive Faux Pa let me know. Cheers Mark
  41. 1 point
    Azgaron

    Hasegawa Bf 109F

    Very nice work Gaz! Looks great! Håkan
  42. 1 point
    Well went with dark green. have a look.
  43. 1 point
    Beautiful work...especially casting the Bofors ammo clips. Cheers, D.B.
  44. 1 point
    PeterOlsen

    1/32 Zoukei-Mura Ta152H-1 White 7

    Hi Thunnus, I'm not sure why you broke out the super glue debonder? if I understand correctly, you were using it to clean up the excess glue around the joins? Have you tryed using some fine grade sand paper wrapped around a toothpick ? ( a grade that won't scratch the PE but will still take the CA away) CA glue is so brittle that you can also cut and or chip it away with a sharp No.11 blade. Perhaps a combination of these two ideas might be helpful and that way you could leave the debonder out of the equation. I hope this is of some help. All the best with your progress, Cheers Pete
  45. 1 point
    This is so cool! One of the neatest builds I have ever seen!
  46. 1 point
    Radders

    Lukgraph DH 89 Rapide

    Will buy one to sit on... lovely aircraft and a great scale for it. Here's one I shot back in October 2018.
  47. 1 point
    Thank you Rod and Brett! Here are some more photos...
  48. 1 point
    LSP_K2

    1:25 '40 Willys Coupe Gasser

    I also did a little experimenting with some alcohol to remove the excess acrylic black from the grille, and it too worked great. I think this looks much better now.
  49. 1 point
    Gazzas

    Hasegawa Bf 109F

    Hi everyone, Thank you for checking in often and your kind words. I tried something different this time, I added the tail planes and the radiator flaps after painting. I'm not sure that I'm completely happy with the result as it means there'll be even more touch up painting, and even some touch up sanding! I also got most of the decals on, bringing the plane to life a little more. I'm going to leave the rest off as this plane doesn't seem to have much original color in photos, and I doubt that every stencil got redone. I had a look at other JG 54 machines, and it seems that some of the original stencils remained, those that mainly dealt with fuel, fluids, and oxygen. I haven't clear coated, yet so I can add more if some more detail pictures usefully land in my lap. I took the photos in pretty low light, and I don't know how to play with ISO or any other of that photographic gobbledygook. I mainly wanted to check the stance. BTW... how do you like my scratched copies of field modified flame dampeners? Cheers! Gaz
  50. 1 point
    Not training tonight because of soreness, so I might as well finish off the Karl. Very happy with his this turned out. Thanks for following along.
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