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  1. HL-10

    Messerschmitt 410

    This is the HPH kit of the Me 410. Cast in resin with an extensive etch set, including coloured parts for the cockpit. The kit went together relatively well for a resin kit, no major fit issues. Transparencies were cast in clear resin and were thin with fine detail. Painted with Xtracolor enamels and the decals were from the kit too. Thanks for looking Angelo.
    44 points
  2. After a rather lengthy build, this one is finally over the line. I really wanted to do a large scale air superiority blue F-15 and the candy cane scheme of this B model really appealed. As ever, there was no real OOTB version so extras included an Aires early C cockpit, some additional resin parts from Bruce for the rear cockpit, new exhausts from GT Resin, Fuel tanks borrowed from the Revell F-4, modified Aires Aim-7 to get an F variant, CE Aim-9Js a fair bit of scratch built vents etc and of course some added lighting. The Revell kit is OK shape-wise but needs some real love and attention to bring it somewhere near modern standards i.e. no riveting, rather wide panel lines, soft detail etc. Suffice to say I learnt a lot, mostly that I need to be more focused on build Quality from the start rather than fixing up my errors later on! I tried Black basing on this one, but with lots of over-painting which prove more effective, so not sure I'll do it the same way again. The weapons and tanks are attached with magnets so they can be moved around or replaced. I also trialed some acrylic carving for the afterburner effect which turned out quite neat. Anyway, enough words... picture time! And yes the lights still worked (mostly!).... Thanks for looking! And for anyone interested the build thread is below:
    39 points
  3. Hello all, This is my ICM 1H-1G (early) Cobra with Quinta Cockpit. I used a mix of Model Master and AK paints. I also used the Microdesign exterior photoetch set. This aircraft represents the Executioner of the 235th flown by Capt Lou Bouault out of Daub Ting Vietnam 1969. This was my first ICM kit and I have to say it was pretty good! I used the kits decals which went on fantastic. All photos were taken with my Iphone. As you can see by the indoor pics I am no photographer! The base was built and Designed by Master base maker Tony Quartaro. Thanks for looking. Rod
    36 points
  4. airscale

    1/18 Curtiss P40C

    evening all Thans for stopping by & thanks especially to Waroff for those incredibly helpful pics I noticed a few things as a result, particularly the shapes of the early fairings.. I had a fantastic day on Sunday, having spent the morning crawling all over The Fighter Collection's P40C G-CIIO. The team were really helpful, taking the covers off, opening the cockpit and even dropping the flaps! I took 300 pictures of every inch of the airframe and cleared up many mysteries in realtion to what a drawing says and what real life looks like.. just a few here.. ..got lots of the cockpit.. ..lots from angles you just don't see unless you have access - see the spine panel layout & rivet patterns.. ..and lots up close and personal in places the internet just doesn't get to.. ..I will have to work out a way of sharing them for other builders.. anyways, when I left you last, I had vacformed the wing gear leg fairings.. ..well, I didn't take any in progress pics (slaps wrist..), but these are now fitted, blended and most of the basic internal structure added... ..clearly, still lots to do but happy enough for now.. ..next up was assembling the PE I made for the wing part of the flap structure - the plan was to drop these into the space left when I skinned the top of the wing ..complex assemblies with a lot of parts, but both were assembled over a couple of days.. ..the torque tube slides along to raise & lower them - something I learned from the Duxford guys.. ..before I could assemble the big panel with holes in it, I had to prime and paint underneath it so everything was given a basecoat... after that the little strips were added which are part of the individual rib pressings on the real one.. ..once finished, these assemblies didn't drop in as expected, well they did, but the trailing edge of the wing skin was a bit wonky and it would have doubled the thickness, so I chopped the skin off and just let the flap structures into the wing.. ..these were then blended in... ..and from underneath.. ..starting to get closer to working on the wing fillets, which is the final major shaping / sanding - then I will cut out the ailerons and start skinning the wings.. TTFN Peter
    30 points
  5. Across the line... Well finally the beastie is finished! it was an epic build and my first all resin kit. Jetmads did a piece of wonder there even though it shows that they still have kinks to work out. For a resin kit it was humanely priced at $190 for a preorder. They kept the price down with using 3D printing technology and that was a mixed blessing. Even though it got cheaper it demanded more work to remove printlines, I suppose you have to reach compromise of speed and resolution when you have to fill hundreds of orders. Though I think they could have done things a bit better by aligning the parts as to minimize the printlines. For example the cockpit and it's parts suffers greatly from printlines and they are hard to remove. It was actually so bad that the printlines in many cases ruined the fantastic details they put into the model. I found that the best way to remove lines was to brutally scrape with scraping tool or knife. This meant in turn that details on the fuselage had to be removed to asure the best surface treatment. The hardest part was the joining of the fuselage and main wings, it ate lots of putty and was hindered by the hot air exhausts on the fuselage as they were always in the way and got damaged in the blending process. They would have benefitted from being separate parts. The next thing I didn't like that much was the decals, The big sheets were good quality and printed by Cartograf, though they skipped a lot of stencils! As a nerd I frown upon such short cuts! But the air wing insignias were terible, I had a friend print new ones for me that truly made them justice. The resin pitot tubes and probes was another headache...they snapped as fast I looked at them, I finally managed to replace them with brass from Masters 1/32 Gripen set It sounds like I bash Jetmads but I don't really, their product is fantastic and with a wee bit of extra tinkering it would be absolutely, incredebly awesome! My suggestions for improvement is as follows: New instruments, preferably 3D printed acrylic ones like Red Fox or Quickboost. Metal parts for pitot tubes and probes And add the fuselage hot air exhausts as separate parts instead of molded on to the fuselage. Improve the decal sheet These are the big things....all the small things you just have to deal with as a model builder Finally, I truly enjoyed the build and I learnt a lot about working in this media and in the end I got pretty close to what I wanted to achieve.... This is NOT my last Gigant Viggen! Cheers and thanks for all the support during the build!
    29 points
  6. red baron

    F 86 K KITTY HAWK

    my last built , enjoy :
    29 points
  7. Changed a lot on this Has.Revll kit, You can see here on the WIP. Took too long as we had a serious amount of interruptions, but got there.
    28 points
  8. I remember a topic a while back discussing pilot's certificates, and someone told me to be sure to shout out when I earned my certificate. I earned it this past Thursday, and honestly I can't remember being so excited since my first solo last year. It's been a long road, but I have never before felt such a sense of accomplishment. It's been my dream to be a pilot since I was 5 years old, and now at 52 I can finally say when people ask me if I am a pilot: YES, I AM. Thanks! Frank
    27 points
  9. airscale

    1/18 Curtiss P40C

    Hi folks thanks Kurok, will PM you & have started to make adjustmenst to the fairings Wow KiwiZac, that is some build - I know many of those drawings and parts now, but the idea of basically making every part individually and then assembling the airframe from them is mind blowing! I used a slitting disc to cut free the ailerons - they have a rounded nose and the cutout in the wing is much shorter at the topside vs the bottom. Once cut away a false triling edge was added from cut down brass 'L' stock and the fairing shape carefully rolled from ali - then the hinge & other cutouts added.. ..then the first skin panel was prepared - drawing first, then that is stuck onto litho, any holes for access panels done first, then the edges scored & cut and an awl used to add each rivet.. ..the rear row of rivets are raised, so these are embossed from the backside.. ..the panel is added with contact adhesive both sides, and a tape rubbing used to determine the outline of the access panel.. ..both wings are done simultaneously with about 20 mins work on each panel then rotate to the other until both are complete - avoids fatigue & boredom - I hate repeating a lengthy task having completed it.. ..decided to do the panel above the last one as one long continuous panel (it is two) and added cutouts for gun ejection chute hatches, lending light (one side) and an inspection panel.. ..the landing light was dremelled out and a recess created for some glazing (still with protective wrap).. ..the landing light itself was made from a bit of an old pen, some bobbins, a dome from ali shaped over a ball, and the PE cover plate.. ..the ammo chute panels look like this on the real bird.. ..so these were made up using PE panels etc.. ..same deal, both panels worked on at the same time, so once complete, these were laid down.. ..and the other side.. ..and this is where its at on both wings... ..still about 20,000 rivets to go... probably do topside & leading edge so I can get to the U/C fairings and stop short of the wing/fuselage join. I tried to do the fillet shaping, but it's impossible before the wings are on the fuselage, and for that to happen the cockpit needs to be closed up.. will plod on with skinning the wings and see how the phasing goes... might be a bit dry in terms of variety for a bit TTFN Peter
    27 points
  10. The actuators ARE a bit tricky in that they are meant to span a specific distance and there are no references or markings on the cowl flaps for placement. I had to adjust quite a few of them when they got bent out of shape being too close to the fuselage. Thank you so much, Spyros. Looking at photo references for this area always gives me a headache... don't know which way is up or down! Glad to have passed this stage of the build! Thank you sir! Pushing forward a little bit more on this Dora. Here are the Eduard brass ammo chutes glued into place and painted. With the engine plug complete and temporarily in place, I can also dry-fit the cockpit tub. I'm now ready to glue the fuselage halves together. There are three sub-assemblies that go inside the fuselage. The cockpit slides into place after the fuselage is together so that will be last. I'm not sure if I showed the painted Eagle Editions resin tail wheel strut so here it is... The tail wheel is glued into place with CA glue. I had to trim the corner of the tail wheel base to allow the tabs of the horizontal tail planes to fit. The engine plug is glued into the starboard fuselage side first. The joint along the base of the supercharger intake was treated with multiple applications of Mr Surfacer 1000. The little scoop on top of the gun cowling is not ready for attachment but I've hollowed out the end using an x-acto blade. The fuselage halves are now fused together using Tamiya Extra Thin cement. Double checking to see if the engine plug is seated correctly.
    26 points
  11. Back with another update on the D-9! I finally worked up enough motivation to finish the engine plug. After adding some wiring to the engine body itself, I drilled out some holes in both the forward and rear engine bulkheads for additional wiring runs and then painted the engine parts while the parts were still separated. I then started gluing the engine components together and adding wiring along the way to further complicate/populate this area. The wiring work is not accurate but is intended to simply give the impression of complexity. The ammo cannisters and chutes were chipped using hairspray to represent a bit of wear and tear in this area. The last component of the engine plug to be attached is the rear bulkhead. I've added some yellow electrical wiring bundles. The wheel well insert was also painted and chipped with hairspray. Now that the engine plug has been completed, I can dry-fit it into the fuselage to see what it looks like with the wheel well insert in place. Lots of this work gets hidden once the central wing part is in place but there is enough visible to make the previous work worthwhile.
    26 points
  12. Hello! I finished this about one year ago. I used the Trumpeter kit, Eduard PE and Quickboost exhausts (as far as I remember). The figures are slightly converted ICM figures, backdated to 1941 (no shoulder straps in the soviet army till 1943) and equipped with resin heads. The crows are from Preiser. This project was big fun and there were no issues with the kit as far a I remember. The markings were sprayed using Montex masks. I hope you like it! Best regards, Andreas
    25 points
  13. Before I glued the resin instrument panel coaming, I decided to remove some of the internal ribbing that is not needed and might get in the way. I secured this piece by wicking thin CA glue into the joints while the part was held in place with my fingers. All of the new joints will be inspected and cleaned up as necessary. Here are some views into the cockpit area with the new parts glued into place. Checking the fit of the clear parts and a good review of the Dora fuselage with the re-shaped gun and radiator cowlings. The pilot armored head rest has been painted. There is a glue blob that needs to be carefully fixed and re-painted. Finally... a disc cut from a piece of stiff paper is used to as a removable mask for the opening of the radiator cowling.
    25 points
  14. Another addition to my P-40 Warhawk collection This is 1/32 Hasegawa P-40N 1 “Dikam Death” from 88th FS 80th FG Burma Banshees. Cockpit modified with Eduard instrument panel and seatbelts. I have added Eduard Exhaust set Paints: Gunze Sangyo acrylics Decals: Nose art and tail numbers are from Customhobbydecals Happy modelling
    25 points
  15. Hi all Here my lst built : the Tamiya 1/32 F4U-1D built as a salvadorian FG-1D. Hope you lie it.
    25 points
  16. airscale

    1/18 Curtiss P40C

    thanks chaps - very kind still adding skins to the wings, so here is where it's at.. along the spar on the upper wing is this long pair of panels which includes two access doors to the guns.. this is then added with a tape hinge & contact cement.. the panel above the aileron has already been added with a cutout for the inspection hatch.. ..hatch added with scored ali tube for a hinge.. ..tape used to derive the shape of the leading edge panel - a pencil is used with tape to determine the rivet lines and once this is removed represents the real world shape that is needed to skin this area.. ..the tape is carefully removed and used to create the wraparound panels.. ..that panel is then added to both wings.. ..more panels & hatches added to the top wings.. ..same for the bottoms, the panel around the U/C fairing is the precursor to the compound panels that will cover it, plus the ammo doors have been added.. ..its getting close to the point where the wings are added to be able to skin the U/C areas so I may move onto fuselage skins at the tail & nose while they are seperate parts as they are easier to handle - the upshot is I want to get as much skin on as I can without putting it in danger areas for filling / sanding etc until next time TTFN Peter
    24 points
  17. When I lived in Miami in the 80s a USMC WWII Corsair pilot and I became friends. His name was Jim Wilkens and he shared his memories, his log book and a few small photos of himself while he was flying out of Espiritu Santo with VMF 225. As a result of that friendship I built the old Revel Corsair as a tribute to his service. No big deal but I did add a couple upgrades like a scratch built seat, belts, gun sight, exhaust and a scratch built bomb rack. I also printed my own dry transfer markings. Back then this kind of extreme weathering was unheard of, but I didn't know the "rules" I just tried to replicate the condition of these birds based on the photos that were available at that time. Needless to say the IPMS judges were not impressed. I always hoped that someone would release a better 1/32 Corsair but when Tamiya did I just did not have the time or a workspace to build one. Running a business has a way of sucking the life out of you and keeping you from enjoying hobbies. Then a few years ago I realized that time wasn’t on my side so I jumped back into the hobby with the goal of building enough skills to tackle my dream build, my friend’s F4U-1A. So after some research and viewing the entries in Jim’s log book, here I am hoping my eyes and hands hold out long enough (I’ll be 76 in December ’22) to accomplish what appears to be a daunting task. And so it begins:
    23 points
  18. mig011

    Trumpeter P-40B

    Hello guys, one of the icons of the second war in my opinion...
    23 points
  19. chrish

    Italeri F-35 A

    Im back. enjoying the warm weather and tinkering on the Lightning in the evening. the intakes and engine are a very snug fit, a bit of sanding trimming was done to ease the fit. upper and lower dry fit in progress; upper and lower glued together; Thanks for looking
    23 points
  20. This is Revell's 1/32 scale 1983 boxing of the Phantom :-) Done to the new IPMS Basic Kit Build rules. Beyond the paint scheme I thinned the trailing edges, drilled out the fuel vents and other miscellaneous vents on the aircraft, painted in some vents as well, and made everything that I could work just the way Revell wanted it to be for the kids who originally built these...just like me, a big kid now :-) You can check out the full build by following the link in my sig if interested In memory of Jason - USMC Herc. Semper Fi
    22 points
  21. Finally got a few days of glorious weather, it was time to get back to starting the paint-job on the Hurri! Using some different mottling/stain masks I had lying around, put down some shades of greys and browns over the silver base (with some chipping fluid sprayed on first) Staying away from pure blacks, but using base tones of either AK Interactive NATO Black, or Blue Black, mixed with some drops of Royal Blue, or IJN Green, Buff, etc - just to vary the tones of the coats, which were applied very thinly. I then proceeded to lightly chip the frame, and lightly sanded the raised detail to bring out the silver layer below. Here you can see that underlying tonality showing through the topcoat, and the result of the light sanding of the raised detail. The different tones, etc, are much more visible with the naked eye... Port side zoomed in a bit - the tones are more evident in this shot - further weathering plus the addition (in contrast) of the national insignia will tone things down a little.
    22 points
  22. Thanks Mike! Thank you Kevin! Thanks Sasha! Thanks Jay! I hope I'm not making everyone dizzy by jumping between these two builds. I bought the big saw for larger resin pieces and it works really well for that. Tamiya #74024 Thin blade modeling razor saw. I've gone ahead and given the brass flaps a coat of primer... Mr Primer Surfacer 1000, thinned with Mr Leveling Thinner, and shot through the airbrush. Based on my experience with the Special Hobby Tempest build, I'm not going to paint the flap bays until after the camo painting. This will save on some time as it is much easier to mask the rectangular opening for painting rather than trying to mask and protect the painted flap bays in place. Another new product to introduce... 1ManArmy's stencil masks! I saw a review on The Modeling News website and when I learned that they had a set available for the Hasegawa Fw190D-9 kit, I thought I'd given them a try. They are essentially paint masks for aircraft data stenciling to replace decals. I guess this is the next logical step in my progression from using decals to buying Montex masks for the larger insignias and then buying a Silhouette Portrait craft cutter to create my own masks. Data stencils on 1/32 aircraft are beyond the resolution of the knife-based craft cutter and 1ManArmy employs some sort of laser-cutting process to make these incredibly fine masks. A complete set of data stencils is provided as well as a few generic larger markings with a detailed set of placement instructions. I am going to test these masks on the landing gear covers, which I've painted in RLM 74 Dark Grey. But before the data stencils, I'm going to paint the Brown 4 using custom masks from my cutter. I used a 1:1:1:1 mix of Tamiya White, Orange, Red Brown and Red to match the color on the Eagle Editions decal sheet. The laser process seems to have burned away most of the smaller, free-floating pieces of the mask, which is a very good thing. On a similar mask from the craft cutter, you'd have to manually pick away these bits from the mask, which can be tedious. One drawback to these masks is accurate placement. It can be tricky to do since the yellow masking material is opaque and not see-through. Additional masking is another drawback... you have to protect the areas outside of the small masks from overspray. But the result is impressive! It's difficult to make out the black from the dark grey background but the masks work as advertised. However, I made the mistake of spraying gloss thinned with Mr Leveling Thinner to seal the paint job on the gear covers. DON'T use MLT over an area treated with hairspray or else you may get the weird spider-web effect that I got on my gear covers. I'm not sure I liked how the hairspray chipping worked out anyway so I'll probably be wiping these clean and doing it all over again. And I'm going to test the idea of re-using the 1ManArmy masks as I've carefully saved the ones I've used.
    22 points
  23. Iain

    ICM 1:32 Yak-9T

    We take an 'in-box' look at the latest release from ICM, kit 32090 for the Yak-9T. It's a lovely looking kit in the box... Have fun, Iain
    22 points
  24. some more progress on the landing gear. spinner painted, canopy unmasked..still crispy and shining. there is a minor scratch though.. gun cover and front cowling glued in place.. still a lot to do with weathering but i really like how she turns out.. thanks for watching Spyros
    22 points
  25. Hey all- more nozzle stuff- The rusty and smoky patina was done with MiG pigments over the previous painting steps- cheers P
    22 points
  26. Hi everyone! I'm now on the final step stage before the painting stage. Construction is pretty much complete but need to spend some time polishing the fuselage after all the sanding and rescribing and taking care of any possible ghost seams. Overall fit wasn't bad at all with only the wing and tailfin to fuselage join and needing a bit of filler. While all open panels such as the airbrakes and gunbay covers were clearly designed to be installed in the open position it only took a bit of sanding to glue them in place closed. I didn't bother cleaning up the fuselage half join on the underside since most of it will be covered by the central fuel tank. The leading edge slats were also designed to be installed in the extended position. Since I wanted to install them retracted, I sanded them as much as possible to sit flush with the wing and then fashioned my own activating struts from styrene. I also replaced the ventral vent louvers with thinner ones made from styrene sheet. Finally, for armament, I will installing the Super 530s, Magic 2 missiles and central fuel tank. Thanks for checking!
    22 points
  27. A-7D Corsair II 120th, Colorado ANG. Trumpeter model 1:32 Painted with Hataka Hobby Red. A-7D Corsair II Trumpeter 1:32
    21 points
  28. 21 points
  29. It's a wrap! So after almost half a year on hold I have finaqlly finnished the last bits. I had waited for either Master or Maestro to make a metal pitot tube for Viggen in 1/32nd scale but unfortunately that did not come to fruit. In stead I started looking for tubes to adapt. I ordered a Hawker Hunter tube in 1/32 and a F-100 ditto...and oddly I found that Master had pitot tubes for JAS39 Gripen in 1/32. Upon recieveing the tubes I dsimissed the F-100 tube out of hand, the Hunter tube could be adapted BUT the Gripen tubes were really interesting. At first I thought the Gripen tubes were in the wrong scale but when I compared to 1/48 I saw that they indeed were larger. As a matter of fact they are exactly the same length as the Viggen pitot tube! I still had to adapt it a bit since there is a thicker section at the base of the Gripen tube with a cone at the end. I sanded the cone to the thickness of the base section and drilled a 1.2mm hole in the nose of the Viggen. It still differs a bit from the Viggen tube, there should be a slight bulge at the end of the Viggen tube and the shaft should be the same width instead of progressingly thinner as the Gripen tube. But in the end it looks the best! So my big tip is that you should get Master's Gripen pitottube set in 1/32nd scale! Also the fin pitot tube is usable from that set. Again not 100% correct as the it should be constant width instead of thinning towards the end...but it looks good! And it's metal! I drilled a 0.8mm hole in the Jetmads part (after breaking off the resin tube) and glued the secondary pitottube in place. It cracked a bit so I had to fix with CA glue and then sand it before painting and installing it on the kit. I had other stuff to do as well... I had glued the saftey handle wrong so I had to remove it and reattach it. And lastly There should be protruding a couple of tubes from the tailcone. Probably cooling inlets for the stuff in the tail cone. Jetmads had the tubes molded in place but I removed them to be able to clean the surface. I made them from warm drawn sprue, glued them in place and painted them black. They should really be separate parts, Jetmads! With that the build is a wrap.....finally and I will take neato pics of the finished model during the week! Cheers and thanks for all the support during the build!
    21 points
  30. This is a little premature, but I just cannot help myself - I have to show you all this. Recall last post I was in the middle of "step 1" of the nose cowl installation, which was installing 18 ribs inside the cowl. This was being accomplished with a jig of my own making. That's done. Step 2, using that same jig, the nose cowl is attached to the engine cylinder heads via alot of triangular plates like this: As I mentioned before, I skipped the little link you see in that picture, and only used the attach plates. Here is a pair of those details: Very small, easy to lose. All 18 nose cowl ribs get those little parts, which are differently shaped at almost every location based on variability of my engine. Here I show that work on the jig: The blue dots signify location that are done. Note that there are some inaccessible locations behind the towers on each side of the jig. That's OK - I can get to those after the assembly is removed from the jig. So I removed it: That is a large milestone. Note I had to slice the large circular resting plate in two, and bust it off the towers, to get the engine out of the jig. The way the jig was designed, the engine was trapped in the jig - couldn't help it. No prob' - I don't need it anymore! OK - it is now time to take care of the 5 remaining locations. Even with them not complete, the nose cowl feels very robust. No flexing whatsoever. I am so stoked. Then, paint touch up, some other little stuff, and then on to the cowl panels. Here is a shot of the Corsair with the engine and nose cowl fitted to it: Now that's what I'm talking about. I am soooo glad I chose to 3D print that nose cowl instead of using the kit one that I modified on the lathe a few years back (see page 1 of this 60+ page thread). It's night and day. Next post I will show you, among other things, the nose cowl attachments in more detail (after I clean them up some). Stay tuned - lots more adventure to come.
    21 points
  31. …still painting the inside of the tailpipes, but I thought I’d also start working out the exterior skin- master pattern with tape. Sharpie pen to locate the weld beads.. glued to .005 sheet weld beads impressed with ball head tool and French curve score and cut Still need to attach them-will weather these up a bit Cheers P
    21 points
  32. Sorry but I'm going to postpone my other builds for a bit. I was asked by Special Hobby if I would do another build for their Blog. And of course I said yes, I couldn't pass this opportunity to collaborate on this build and share my experiences with them. So this is going to my first ever Japanese build and a on top of that an old one . The Mitsubishi A5M4 Claude "Hi-Tech" 1/32 I didn't have any knowledge of this airplane, but the more I read about it the more intriguing it became. I've decided to recreate the first aircraft of Matsuo Hagiri. A legend by Japanese standards... And if nothing else, because of his moustache Matsuo Hagiri first saw combat in china september 1940, piloting a zero fighter his squadron annihilated any chinese fighter encountered with no losses, in October 1940 Hagiri and tree other zero fighter pilots landed on a chinese airfield for a sabotage mission destroying several fuel tanks, they managed to escape under heavy chinese machine gun fire, he then recieved a china incident war medal for his actions and returned to japan as a pilot instructor, in july 1943 he is sent to the solomons islands On September 23, 1943, 27 planes of a Zero fighter Group are sent to intercept an Allied raid against the base. hagiri destroyed tree Corsair fighters but was wounded by machine gun fire, in 1944 he returned to japan for the defence of tokyo against the B-29 he destroyed two b-29 bombers before being wounded by machine gun fire, during his career he won 15 air victories, he died in 1997. Here he is aboard the Japanese Carrier 'Soryu'. You can see him in the middle, sitting down, with the moustache! The decals of the Special Hobby doesn't cover this type of markings... So I had to get the the Berna Decals set too.. A friend of mine was able to decode the meaning of these Japanese letters on the A5M4. The first line "報国-266/Houkoku-266" denotes "The 266th IJN aircraft donated to the IJN", Then the second line "岩井號/Iwata-Gou" denotes the donator's name "岩井/Iwata". So there it is, No. 261 + I've got my story about Matsuo Hagiri and even a photo of him and his A5M4, what can go wrong? Cheers: Kent
    20 points
  33. Jumping temporarily over to the Hien build as I wait for some products to arrive on the Dora build. A fuel regulator was fashioned from a piece of sprue, a strip of brass sheeting and couple of Anyz line connectors. Not knowing what color it was, I decided on red to match the cartoon drawing of the Hien I posted earlier. Here's the regulator in place. After the regulator was glued into place, I placed some copper wiring to to replicate the two fuel lines.
    20 points
  34. Friends, I'm already in Kyiv. A couple of days of adaptation to the new reality and I will start fulfilling pending and new orders. https://lemkits.com/ https://www.ebay.com/usr/ruporator/ Thanks for support. p.s. Air Raid Signals and roadblocks do not fit in the mind - the 21st century .... Normal people fight diseases, make scientific discoveries and get ready to fly to Mars - But clinical idiots attack the neighboring country without any idea, hiding behind a distorted story invented by their epileptic pseudo-emperor .... Take care of the peace and yourself.
    20 points
  35. 20 points
  36. Thanks so much Gazza. I'm impressed you're still following along after all this time! Progress on the bomb bay seems to have gone painfully slow, probably mostly due to the complexity of the task at hand. The doors finally received some love in the form of paint. May not be accurate at all, but the green did break up the otherwise ocean of silver. It worked well on the bomb bay ribs, and I think looks pretty nice on the doors too. It was a very slow process, and painted without masking as I wanted to test my freehand skills..... First of all, here's them ready for paint. And painted. I used some black panel line wash to impart a grubby look to it... The bomb bay was still lacking the hyd system and other details, so I got to work adding them. Here's the reservoir...... This is actually the second reservoir. The first one slipped when I was gluing it in the bay (working from upside down), fell through the #4 bulkhead door and disappeared somewhere inside the front end. Try as I might I simply couldn't find it, so wherever it is, it's in there for good! Mega frustrating, but at least you can't see it.... Here it is in place with some other details.... That done, I was back to the doors.... Got the outside covered too. The fit was pretty good all things considered, just a bit of a lip at the front, which I can't explain where it came from. Especially as I can't see inside the bays where they're closed to figure out the source of the interference. Looks a bit rougher than IRL, but the important thing to note here is the magnets work! The doors hold shut nicely against gravity.... Very happy! She now looks a lot more complete on the underside And not too shabby with them open either.... Starting to look a bit more business-like Next up, how do I hide this very ugly gap on both the inside and outside of the hinge area? After a bit of thought, I decided that two opposing L shaped pieces should do the trick. The first one covers the massive hole on the outside, while leaving recesses for the hinges to move in, like the real thing.... When the door is opened, it goes a long way to covering the inside gap too... I haven't made the second piece yet, but it'll actually be more of a "Z" shape, to join the L and cover the bottom of the truss. I think hope the metal should be thin enough to not cause any further clearance issues for the doors when closed, but we'll see once I've built it . That's a tomorrow problem! I'm definitely seeing an end to the work in the bomb bay area. It's been a hell of a lot of work (that I didn't anticipate), but I'm really glad I can open and close the doors to suit. I think I'll still build a ferry tank to go in there as well as some bombs, seeing as that was a pretty typical load during the early days. I may even get that tail on this year!!!! Cheers, Craig
    20 points
  37. Now for the main paint scheme. In an attempt to get the faded look I started with an overall coat of grey (Tamiya XF19), over which I preshaded with a random mottle of XF63 German Grey. I'm afraid we jump a bit here, so sorry no photos for a while. First I had to deal with a pesky "ghost seam" that's appeared; then I started with the white ID bands round the wings, tail surfaces (but not elevators and rudder) and cowling leading edge. The main scheme is Medium Sea Grey underneath, with Dark Earth and Dark Green above, and I used the Mr Hobby Aqueous colours for these. After applying each one, and trying to let just a little of the pre-shading effect work its magic, I post-shaded each with a lightened (with white) mix of each colour. Each colour was allowed to dry thoroughly before starting on the next; the division between upper and lower surfaces was masked, the Earth/Green divisions were free-handed. Now for the markings: I started off by applying all the masks: the letters and numbers were white, and I decided to back the roundels and fin flashes with white as well. Having done the white, I masked off the codes and serials as required and sprayed the lighter blue colour of the national markings: Mr Hobby H25 Sky Blue mixed with white uilr* sufficed for this. And that's where we are. Next job is the darker blue. There will be more to come, but when, I couldn't say. * "uilr" is a paint-mixing formula I frequently use: "Until It Looks Right".
    20 points
  38. Since fishing season has started so I've not been as hyper-focused on modeling as I have been. Jumped back onto the D-9 build for a few updates. The tail stabilizers have been riveted. The cowling flap actuating rods were added from the Eduard Exterior set. The rear engine assembly has been giving me the most pause, as usual. You'd think that after building this kit for the fifth time, that I'd have some sort of system or at least good idea of how to approach this area but I took a slightly different approach this time. Guided by photos of the Jumo 213 engine, I added some wire junctions on either side of the engine body instead of just spreading random wires around the periphery of the visible engine as I've done in the past. I'll still add the peripheral wiring but I thought working from the inside out might get me a more realistically cluttered look to this area. Here are the majority of the engine components ready for painting. The components with metal wiring are primed with Mr Primer Surfacer 1000 first. More engine work to come!
    20 points
  39. Posting this out of boredom. I’m home recuperating from minor surgery and every time I walk through my modeling room this is what I see…. Everything ready to glue as soon as the pain meds wear off in a couple days. In my current condition/stuper I’d probably glue my shoe to my face.
    20 points
  40. Hey all- here is the ballast fairing unique to the AT-38B. Typical of scratch building, there are three not perfect/destroyed ones at the trash end of my bench- The basic shape was built up with sheet styrene and then skinned- cheers P
    19 points
  41. Pastor John

    AIMS NEWS

    Hi guys I am still here surviving.....just lol. Some stuff has just arrived and the 109 sheet has been sent off to the printers Arrived 32D031 He 111 P-2 single decal option for Revell He 111 P kit 32D032 Spitfire PR XI USAF single decal option for use with AIMS conversion 32P027! Future 32D033 Foreign Bf 109's The keen eyed amongst you might note that this sheet allows you to use three different 109 kits from the stash haha Enjoy John
    19 points
  42. as posted over on britmodeller Laird Solution will be released in different scales (in 1/32 as well) https://www.facebook.com/CallsignGlou parts layout (for 1/48 version)
    19 points
  43. Thanks for the pic, Mike! I was previously aware of the hinge along the top front edge of the canopy but had no intention of trying to replicate this effect. I have zero confidence in trying to manipulate the plastic canopy without putting stress marks or snapping the plastic. This is the best that I can manage for now. I used VMS Flexy 5k CA glue to attach the brass tabs to the canopy. Thank you! I've started painting the landing gear components. Base color of RLM02 (Mr Hobby Aqueous) over a coat of Mr Primer Surfacer 1000. While that paint dries, I am going to modify/improve the various external antennae including (from top to bottom): the FuG16ZY loop antenna, FuG16ZY morane antenna, pitot tube and FuG25a IFF antenna. Generally speaking, the kit representations for these parts are too thick and can be easily replaced with other materials. For the IFF antenna, I simply drill a small hole in the bottom of the base and glue a piece of stretched sprue. I like stretched sprue in this instance since it is not as easily bent as thin wire. Note that I have kept the molded antenna intact to make the base easier to hold. The molded antenna is then snipped off. The modified antenna is now more to scale. The FuG16ZY morane antenna tip is snipped off and replaced with a piece of copper wire. The tip of the pitot tube is similarly replace with a section of brass tubing. The loop antenna is snipped off of its base. I like to use the thin aluminum from a soda can for this replacement. A pin vise is used to hold the small base. Two holes are drilled out using the tip of an x-acto blade for the new loop. The thin strip of soda can material is wrapped around the shaft of an appropriately-sized paint brush to get the circular shape. One end is attached first with CA glue. Since there is a bit of springiness in the loop, it's best to let the glue cure before attaching the other side. After attaching the other side, you can gently adjust and re-shape the loop to your satisfaction. Four quick and easy modifications!
    19 points
  44. After almost a year of struggling with this thing I finally put the finishing touches on and I’m calling this one done. If you’ve been following this build you know this thing has fought me every step of the way, but I learned a lot…. More on that in a moment. I’m really happy with the paint job and the rivets, but other than that it’s nothing to write home about. If you’re thinking it looks okay, look again. The landing gear was the knock out gut punch. I glued the actuators in and let them sit overnight just to be extra super careful, figuring that the actuators would nail down the inboard/outboard angle of the struts and since the gear legs have nice, square, long pegs and the hole where they go is deep, and the fit was good, no apparent wobble. What could possibly go wrong? This is what could possibly go wrong! The right strut fore/aft angle is out about a quarter inch farther than the left. It’s so bad, it’s obvious at a glance. But wait, there’s more! Because it’s angled too far forward the right wing is WAY lower than the left. It’s enough to make a grown man cry. Anyway, thanks for watching and all the kind comments. There’s a kit on my shelf that everyone raves about how perfect it is, so that’s my next project… as soon as I finish licking my wounds.
    19 points
  45. Some more work done on the E-4. It's been too wet to do any large volume painting on the Hurri I've got going as well, so I've had some good time for the 109. Below is the kit panel with the detail mostly sanded off and Eduard color PE faces added, plus a bit of detail painting, etc A lot of detail on the gun deck has been cut and sanded off already, there was more that came off. The Dragon kit is really good in terms of detail, etc, but IMO it wasn't designed to be built with the cowls and covers on. Even with thinning down all the covers, there were still bits of the guns, ammo feeds, etc that needed to be removed/sanded to get the covers on. HGW belts. Easier to do the more you do them. Nicely moulded kit detail. You can see where I've cut the front portions of the barrels off to make way for the Master brass barrels, to be fitted at the end of the build. The canvas cover detail just forward of the IP has had to be sanded right off, and the top of the ammo bins have been lowered slightly in order that the gundeck/IP had enough clearance below the gundeck cover. Port view of the cockpit All buttoned up, and as is the case, not much to see once done. Looks busy enough. The gap on top of the IP will be concealed by the front canopy. Dragon had moulded the windscreen portion along a panel line, so that is a sensible win! Very little remains of all the lovely engine detail below those cowls. Engine support bearers, headers, pipes, etc etc are gone, in order to close the engine cowls up. Plently of sanding, testing, sanding, etc. I'm happy with the result in the end. The area between the engine cowls and the gundeck cover had a gap, but I used some white round styrene rod to fill it and simulate the rubber seal. I know the G's had those seals, not too sure if the E's had them, but that's what it is now.... Last image is with the canopies just sitting in place. I need to sand off the slightest bit off the bottom of the windscreen portion (and subsequently the rest as well) in order to get a flush join between the windscreen and gundeck cover - looks like less than 1/2mm... Wings next.....
    19 points
  46. got to sling some paint today! not done, but coming along- reference photo: so far, the inside of the nozzles: primed black base coat MRP Gunship grey a wash of Lifecolor burnt umber & colonial sand a light dry brush with Ammo gun metal powder a layer of chipping solution a whisp of super thin Tamiya clear blue a very thin coat of Tamiya buff chipped with H20 with a brush and toothpick- more to follow P
    19 points
  47. Hello All, I’ve been hanging around LSP for a while, but haven’t done any large scale builds lately. Here is a 1/24 Hawker Hurricane, built from the Airfix kit. It’s one of only 2 factory owned Hurricanes on the civil register. G-AFKX was a fabric winged 1939 standard airframe, used as an engine and propeller test bed. Changes involved converting the wing to fabric, changing the windscreen, removing radio hatch and mast, plus many more details. Finish is entirely Alclad, in 5 different shades. Thanks for looking. Tony W.
    19 points
  48. This is how we do it- paper templates for top and bottom of slab trailing edge- glue templates down to .005 brass sheet with a glue stick- butt them together at the trailing edges which will also be the fold line. Below you can see the gluing edge exposed on the slab- score the edges around the pattern with a new blade. Also score along the fold line. With a good score, I simply use sharp scissors to cut it out. The blades of the scissors will follow the score lines. Float off the paper pattern in H2O. Flatten it on glass with a steel tool handle. Tape it to some glass and get ready to fold it along the trailing edge I get the fold started by using a razor blade to fold it up against a machinist square Once I have a clean 90 degree bend, I true it up on the square with a steel tool handle Now fold it 100% flat. Then I use several razor blades inserted in the gap to gently pry it open enough to fit on the gluing edge of the slab The T-38 has a unique step right at all the trailing edges. I used this ball tipped tool to impart the step on both sides Apply Contact cement on all mating surfaces. Once again- quiet your mind, a few deep breaths, chakras aligned..and push it on The overhang on the tip and at the root will get filed back later- These open areas will get filled with JB Weld and filed smooth next up- fill the butt joint gaps with JB Weld, sand.. and call ‘em good cheers P
    19 points
  49. Renegade

    1/32 Mirage F.1C

    Hi Guys, With the port main gear bay completed, the basic construction for the starboard bay is almost ready to start adding detail. Interestingly, the bays are similar, but not symmetrical, as there's an extra rib on the starboard side, as well as only one instead of two circular panel close to the rear, and the plumbing is quite different. I'll try to replicate these as best I can. Cheers
    18 points
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