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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/09/2020 in all areas

  1. 42 points
    CZPetrP

    1/32 P-47D-40RA Hasegawa

    P-47D-40RA, Big Stud Coll. Robert Baseler, 325th FG kit: Hasegawa engine: Quickboost cockpit: Aires wheel Bay: Aires wheel: Barracuda studio stencils: HGW Decals: Cartograf Masks: home made paint: Alclad II, Gunze C Photo: my good frend Miloslav(thank you)
  2. 41 points
    1/32 Hasegawa CMK wheel bay, cockpit Painting mask & decals by Z.Slavík Wheels & instrument panel Eduard All colours Mr.Paint/MRP
  3. 40 points
    Hey, after building several WWII birds, i finished my third A-6 Intruder.... I just used the Eduard Interior and the AOA decals for the VA-75 from the desert storm period. All colors used are from Vallejo.... I hope you like her....
  4. 38 points
    miketippingmodels

    1/32 Trumpeter A7- Corsair

    1/32 A7- Corsair finished build complete, I used the verlinden navy carrier tractor, Reedoak’s figures and Eduard MK 84 bombs, along with resin electronics bays and wheel wheels, it’s a pain to build, but over come it and it’s a nice model, painted with MRP paints, this isn’t it’s true base she will join the F-14 Tomcat and F-4 on the carrier deck I built for a collector in London enjoy.
  5. 37 points
    Thanks for all the encouragement I've passed another milestone today, clear parts are in, paint touched up, details added...nearly there. I need to add the shredded fabric to the rudder and the rudder trim tab pushrod and that's about it...So while neither model seen here is technically finished or complete, you'll get the idea of where Iv'e been going with this from these images. In this picture I'm testing my ability to get a damged (destroyed) nose cone glazing; The (nearly) final result. Both models still need detail work but these pictures give the feeling I was looking for; The bomber has a fine thread nut CA'd and epoxied to the bottom of the floor with a steel rod threaded in to that and a press fit into the timber as the support. The 109 has a flat bar inserted into the belly with an aluminum rod placed over top to offer it continuity to the bomber Thanks for looking.
  6. 37 points
  7. 36 points
    X15

    Lifting body M2F1 scratch build

    Hello everybody, Really happy to share with you my last build, the M2F1 lifting body. Special thanks to my friend Seb who work on the project for the 3D printind parts. Take care !!! A little history on this amazing airplane that will give birth to the Space Shuttle! The M2-F1 is the precursor of a series of the most incredible devices ever developed from 1963 to 1975 by NASA: the lifting bodies . This concept of Lifting Body begins to be developed in 1950 and more seriously in 1961 during the period of space conquest. The capsules are used only once and they are very expensive. Engineers then think of a concept of reusable device, which will have to be piloted. But to resist re-entry into the atmosphere this machine will have to withstand extremely high temperatures and therefore its shape will have to be very round and of low lift, unlike a conventional device !! Fascinated by this new concept, a Nasa engineer, Dale Reed, who then worked as an aerodynamicist on the X15 program, on the measures of resistance of materials and overheating, decided to embark on the study of this project. He found a lot of skepticism at Nasa and worked with a very small team. He tests at home flying models in paper then in balsa which he throws by hand or makes fly like a kite. The refined design he films his reduced model and will present his film to the boss of Nasa Paul Bikle. He is interested and gives him $ 30,000 and puts the wind tunnel at his disposal for aerodynamic tests! not much to say! Dale Reed will therefore have to convince engineers to work on his concept outside of NASA working hours and find a way to build a device at very low cost and fly it without an engine !! With the $ 30,000 Dale Reed will build the M2-F1 by a glider manufacturer close to Edwards. To make it fly he buys a Pontiac Catalina which he will have boosted by the local garage owner to tow the M2-F1 !! Finally he finds a test pilot fascinated by the project, Milton "Milt" Thompson. Testing of the M2-F1 begins in March 1963 towed by the Pontiac. It will thus make nearly 400 flights proving that the M2-F1 flies and can fly. NASA then loaned a C47 to tow the M2-F1 like a glider. The real tests can then begin and several test pilots will pilot it including C. Yeager. The concept will thus be definitively validated by NASA and will give rise thereafter to the series of M2-F2, M2-F3, HL-10, X24A and X24B, then the series of X-33, X-36, X-38 and finally to the space shuttle! To find out more, I recommend the books by Dale Reed: Wingless Flight and Milt Thompson: Flying without wings. The M2F2 crash with pilot Bruce Peterson will give Hollywood studios the idea of The Six Million Dollar Man serie. X15
  8. 36 points
    Dart_Schatten

    1/32 Revell He-219 A-7

    Good day, friends! I want to show you my new model - revell He-219 A-7. In work I used: BigEd, BigSin, Barracuda, Master 20, 30 mm gun barrels, Profimodeller antennas, CMK seats, HGW belts, SWS crew, and DML Kettenkraftrad. I used Gunze paints and oils.
  9. 33 points
    March 25/20 I hope this update finds you well. Thank goodness we have our hobby to keep us from going nuts while being stuck indoors. Two more months of this and we might have record for completed models! I’ve got this bird painted now, but before I show that, I was checking to see if the interior of the engine cowling could be seen from the front with the engine installed. The answer is “very little”, but that’s also a little problem, because the interior is full of pin marks and 4 large tabs that hold the cowling together. If you peek inside and hunt around you can find them, so that's good enough for me to eliminate them as much as possible. Sanding off the tabs and filling the sinkholes is hard to do on the thin plastic without damaging it, so I set out to achieve a “good enough” job which also included the Eduard brass PE detail, just in case you can see it too. After paint. I found the inside cowling color to be all over the map from Aluminum to Interior Green, so I picked Aluminum to highlight the added detail. You won't be able to see the slight yellow over spray at the front when the cowling is installed. For the yellow paint I used Tamiya TS-34 Camel Yellow decanted from a rattle can, which is almost the perfect color of most Canadian Harvard Trainers. Like most yellow paint, coverage over a darker base can be problematic, so I painted a white primer coat as shown earlier. Even with the white base, however, I needed at least 5-6 coats of paint to cover everything! Lots of paint fills lots of rivet and panel line detail, so I was quite worried that all this paint would ruin the fine detail that I created earlier. However, everything turned out pretty darn good in the end, as the paint dried and shrunk into this detail after 2-3 days of drying time. Whew! I now think this paint is made for mostly car models, where the focus is on a deep and shiny paint job. I had the same problem with coverage with Tamiya TS-8 Italian Red a few years ago on my P-38L, where I needed a similar number of coats to cover. Tamiya AS series of spray paints are made for aircraft and cover very well, but colors are limited, while the new line of lacquer paints in a bottle do not include Camel Yellow. In any case, the TS-34 still worked very well as shown below. I am also pleased to say that I think I nailed the look of the ribbing on the elevators and rudder, where the rivet detail underneath is still there, but subtle. For the black walkways, I went back to my go-to method of using textured paint out of a spray can, in this case Krylon Fushion “Textured Shimmer”, rather than Rustoleum textured paint. While effective, the Rustoleum paint comes out of the can a bit too rough for scale, so you need to sand it down later. The first step is to mask off the walkways and then COVER EVERYTHING with a kitchen garbage bag, to avoid over spray. What do I mean by over spray? THIS and it’s not for the faint of heart or without lots of practice. After vigorously shaking the can, you spray in sweeping strokes and never directly at the model, which is why it’s all over the place. The goals are even coverage and not too thick or thin. A closer look. Some of this spray is clear, hence the blotchy appearance. After drying for at least 15 minutes, I then sprayed a cover coat of flat black, then removed all masking tape within an hour of spraying. If you leave the masking tape on too long, it may become impossible to remove, because the paint is very hard when dry. With such a high color contrast, I also used the kitchen bag method for the gloss black on the top of the front fuselage area, which was airbrushed. You would think that this should be flat black as well to reduce glare in front of the windscreen, but all my references show that it’s glossy. Note the subtle but very real over spray, which would be nasty on yellow. The results. Note that I haven’t added any details like flaps, aileron control arms or antennae yet due to risk of breakage. The front engine cowling is only dry fit. The walkways turned out just like I hoped with no sanding required. They are slightly rough, but to scale rough, but are also tough to photograph in these high contrast conditions. I will add some pastels to them later to show minor wear at the end of the build, which will highlight them more. The gloss black turned out pretty good as well, which also helps to hide the crude fit of Part D5 to the front fuselage, which is the same demarcation line. Note the brass cowling fitting at the top I added earlier. Other side… And top view. Note that the angled front of the walkways are due to panel lines at the front I added earlier, which is why most walkways are painted this way. Another angle of the ribs on the elevators and rudder. And finally the bottom, where everything is yellow, including the wheel wells and rear flaps. Next up decals and other little bits. I will be using the kit decals that I understand are quite good, but you don’t have much time to move them around much. Thankfully with my second kit to replace the canopy parts, I have a second set of decals just in case I screw up one or six. Cheers, Chuck
  10. 31 points
    Hello, this is my next build after the A-6E Intruder. I used the Zactoman intake set, AirDoc Decals and the Academy Nay Pilot.... Thanks to Raimund, aka Isar30/07, I got new Canopy! Thanks for that againe! Hope you like it....
  11. 29 points
    Here is my finished 1/32 Tamiya F4U-1 Corsair "Birdcage" as "Relucant Dragon". Beautiful kit and a joy to behold when complete with all of the detail that Tamiya sticks in it. Of course, I added more! I wasn't able to find any images of the actual aircraft, instead only finding artist interpretations of what it could have looked like. This plane was flown by 1st LT Alonzo Treffer of VMF-213, based in Guadalcanal from what I can find. https://www.aviationillustration.com/hikashop-menu-for-categories-listing/product/7467-13-f4u-1-corsair-buno-17675-no-1-reluctant-dragon-flown-by-1-lt-alonzo-b-treffer https://vmf-213.com/ The men of VMF-213 1. Vector resin cowling 2. Barracuda resin wheels and tires 3. HGW Fabric and photoetch harness 4. Barracuda cockpit stencils 5. Montex Masks and decals 7. HGW Wet Transfer Stencils Paints are a mix of MRP and AK Real Colors, with Tamiya Acrylics thrown in here and there. The build can be found here: The wings are permanently attached, which may prove troublesome later for space and transport. I also wish I had used the closed canopy spine pieces so I could have the canopy closed to prevent dust. 20/20 hindsight!
  12. 28 points
    airscale

    1/18 P51C Mustang "Lopes Hope the 3rd"

    evening all I trust I find you all well in these difficult times and if anything it gives you a chance to either do some modelling or if not, enjoy the work of others who do I find myself confined to quarters, not through illness, but through trying to stay safe - I am fortunate I can work from home and just do emails and conference calls for my day job rather than sweat it into London.. I think you are right Chuck - I have had a go at better alignment and am now in limits of whats possible so will leave as is now - pics next time So, where were we - elevators... always seem to be the last thing I do, don't know why here is a nice shot of Lopes Hope which shows there is more to them than meets the eye notice the rib tapes, the visible structure underneath, the many eyelet sort of 'polo mint' fixings and the four mounts for the mass balance weights.. ..I started with a brass sheet blank, cut from scaled plans and scribed with all the internal structure (also making most of the cuts for the trim tabs so they can be broken out later) - from there plastic strip was used to bulk it out and coffee stirrer sticks for the ribs. I use these as they are wood and the solartex RC covering sticks well to it.. ..soon both elevators were done top and bottom... there is a double wall where the trim tabs are ..then the bulk of the structural additions were dremelled off and sanded to final profile - once complete the trim tabs were removed.. ..after covering with solartex and wicking CA on the edges, the eyelet things were added - these are tiny brass washers, the bigger ones punched out of litho.. ..these were then covered with the rib tapes again scaled from plans - the tapes are made from foil plumbers tape (like bare metal foil just cheaper) with a riveter run along a straight edge and a scalpel cut along the holes to get pinked edges.. ..they cover all the eyelets well - although in this shot there is still a big panel of tape to go over the trim tab area.. ..a shot of primer show the fabric effect I was after.. ..trim tabs made from litho with the core from the original structure.. ..then the mass balance weights were made from left over resin casting blocks.. ..and shot with MRP super matt black - also added the trim tab actuating rods to elevators & rudder and gave them all a dusting of MIG powders.. ..all the tailfeather surfaces were attached with hinge rods and are now complete.. ..and a last shot in the evening sun so you can see the contrasts... ..thats it for now - more bits and bobs to go including the Drop Tanks that Steve at Model Monkey has kindly enlarged from his 1/32 set and 3D printed in 1/18 for me stay safe everyone and see you next time TTFN Peter
  13. 27 points
    afternoon ladies Thanks Ben - the end is surprisingly near as will be seen Hi there - I got them from 4D Modelshop - I provided my own artwork, if you need that too it would be even more expensive ..so with a few days off, it seems like I have powered through a lot of the 'to do' list.. ...the main job was getting the model on it's undercarriage and getting the gear doors on - I made up the big links the hold them on and spent ages getting it all to line up - hopefully the sit is right.. ..also the tailwheel & doors were added with the retraction links and the aerial loop on the rear fuselage.. ..then the prop and flaps.. ..and it's ready for a quick walk around - the canopy parts are not fitted so are just resting (badly..)... ..any comments on the 'sit' or any of the details if they look off, please don't be shy - say something here. I am aware the P51 is so iconic that it must look bang on to pull it off.. ..I still have to make the elevators, sort the other aerial and make the wing drop tanks (plus light weathering) so still some to go TTFN Peter
  14. 26 points
    As my P51C is nearly finished, I wanted to start on a new project. This is the Focke-Wulf Fw190C V18, about which Wikipedia says: "The C model's use of the longer DB 603 engine required more extensive changes to the airframe. As the weight was distributed further forward, the tail of the aircraft had to be lengthened in order to maintain the desired centre of gravity. To test these changes, several examples of otherwise standard 190 As were re-engined with a supercharged DB 603 to experiment with this engine. Prototypes V13 – V16 tested various PS and DB603 engines until the V18 followed, the first to feature the full high-altitude suite of features, including the pressurized cockpit, longer wings, a 603G engine driving a new four-blade propeller, and a Hirth 9-2281 turbocharger. Unlike the experimental B models, V18 had a cleaner turbocharger installation, running the required piping along the wing root, partially buried in the fillet, and installing both the turbocharger air intake and intercooler in a substantially sized teardrop shaped fairing under the cockpit.[36] This "pouch" led to the "Känguruh" (Kangaroo) nickname for these models." I was drawn to it as I have always loved the 190 series, particularly the ‘Langnase’ D models and in particular, this airframe had about as much natural metal as I could find on any variant which is my penchant for showing. There are a number of period photo’s walking round the airframe so let’s take a look at the challenge ahead.. I also found some very nice shots of a built-up model – no idea whose or what scale, but credit to them.. As for the basis of the model, I found the range of 21st Century Toys 1/18 models online, which feature ‘toylike’ things such as spinning props, retractable U/C, moveable flying surfaces, but at their heart are actually very accurate replica’s of the airframes covered (at least the Fw190D is..).. A quick tour of the model – this was £160 on ebay – probably well overpriced, but when I see what I want, I pay for it.. So my take is this is a great basis for my next project. I have been busy collecting reference online, have a 1/48 Eduard ProfiPack Fw190D kit as a reference mule, a CD of works drawings on their way from ebay, had Arthur Bentley run me up a fabulous set of 1/18 plans and started some rudimentary artwork for some of the Photo-Etch components that will need to be developed, plus a very healthy dose of excitement and trepidation I am going to need all the help I can get in interpreting Luftwaffe colours etc and I know we have ‘experten’ on hand, so please get involved One thing that is different for this build though is a new thing I am trying called Patreon. This is an online platform where I get to share WIP content to ‘patrons’ who support me. It means nothing in terms of my forum posts here as they will continue with the regularity and scope they always did, but what it does mean is I can bring video to the build and in some ways ‘exclusives’ to those who choose to support me – this is an expensive hobby, I think my P51 netted out at about £1.8k all in and I am simply trying to find ways to offset that via the content I create for people to enjoy. Anyways, no-one has to do it, but there is a welcome video with a walkaround of my P51C that anyone can see, so if you are interested take a look at that at least! In addition, there are already Fw190C videos up Here is the link to my Patreon page I hope you will join me on my next journey and next time I will have this 'toy' broken down into a bunch of expensive parts TTFN Peter
  15. 26 points
    Mr scale32

    Hawker Hunter J-34

    Hi there all forum members. This is my latest build. It is a Revell Hawker Hunter Mark 58, downgraded to a Mark 50(F4). A new resin tail cone and with small leading edges. Some fix for the spine and scratched F.O.D covers. I also used Flightpath photoetch airbrake and flaps. Decals from Moose Republic. The Swedish Airforce named the Hawker Hunter J-34. All aircrafts painted in Olivedrab. J-34 was first delivered to airwing F-18 in 1955. The Swedes used the Hunters until the J-35 interceptor was delivered to the airwings. Last flight with hunters in the Swedish airforce was 1967. Some of them was equiped with two RB24(sidewinder). Here is Yellow K from Airwing F-18 with white exercise markings. This particular aircraft collided in air with a J-29 "Tunnan" in 1961.
  16. 26 points
    Hi, friends! Allow me to present model of the Hero woman-pilot Lidiya Litvyak. That was definitely easy built model. I used Akan paints, and Gunze oils. Many thanks for Iva Honkova and her beatiful reproduction! Regards, Sergey Budyansky.
  17. 25 points
    mpk

    Kawasaki ki-61-1 Hien "Tony".

    Hey guys. I managed to complete a model. 39th Training Sqn Sgt Maj. Iwao Tabata, Yokushiba air base March 1945. Being a training aircraft I wanted it to be old and tired. Gunze Kawasaki army green upper airframe aluminium lower. Weathering used: pastel chalk, pastels oils, artist oil pencils, artist pencils, Prismy silver pencil, minimal airbrushing used in weathering, no wash was applied. Aerial is stretched spru. My hands could use nothing else. Why is my interior olive green I hear you ask? Back when I began this model I did some research (untrue, he found colour photos by accident. Dale just wants to appear all brainy and smart) and found colour photos of an old Ki-61 with olive, not sand yellow, interiors. Comments criticisms, schisms, all other 'isms' etc appreciated. Hang on, no prisms! Anyway, only took about 3 years.
  18. 25 points
    Dennis7423

    ICM I-16 Type 24

    All- Here she is, all done! This is the ICM 1/32 I-16 Type 24, completed with Eduard interior and seatbelt selts, and Armory wheels. Paint is Vallejo acrylics, with Montex masks used to complete the markings. Weathering is a mix of an acrylic wash, Tamiya weathering pastels, and MM enamels. It was an absolute treat to build, and I highly recommend it for anyone considering one of these kits! DSC_0339 by Dennis SAuter, on Flickr DSC_0345 by Dennis SAuter, on Flickr DSC_0343 by Dennis SAuter, on Flickr DSC_0341 by Dennis SAuter, on Flickr DSC_0342 by Dennis SAuter, on Flickr As always, comments and critiques are most welcome. - Dennis S. Thornton, CO USA
  19. 25 points
    Hi Guys I haven't posted much lately because my camera is busted. For this one I managed to do some decent photo's with my phone, so here we go Hasegawa's (in a Revell box) Messerschmitt Bf109G-4 flown by Jan Gerthofer in 13(Slow)/JG52. These days I'm on a 'do one from every nation that participated in WWII' trip so this is Slovakia. Hungary and Denmark is in progress. Unusual camo on the cowl looks like a replacement, but as many (perhaps all) from that unit used it, I guess it's in purpose. The reason is however unknown to me. All markings except stencils painted on. BTW - yes, the bar behind the cross is supposed to sit so high - seen on pictures, but dont know why https://imgur.com/KplHrME
  20. 25 points
    LSP_Kevin

    Standing Down

    Thanks for all the generous comments and support, guys. I'll be around for a while longer yet, as I have a few long-standing plans for the website that I need to bring to fruition, and with my load here already becoming lighter, I hope to start working on those things soon. I've also still got a few reviews to do, so look out for those, too! As for modelling, a big part of my decision to step down is the realisation that I haven't finished an aircraft model in over 2 years now, and with my bench time having dwindled to zero, I've been reduced to being a bystander in a hobby I've worked so hard to support. Having found some time to build a Deadpool figure over the January holidays, I was struck by how emotionally satisfying it was to be building something again, and I certainly need that outlet in my life these days. So, once the dust settles, I do indeed hope to be seeing you all again in the WiP forum, but as an ordinary LSP citizen once again. Kev
  21. 24 points
    Grizly

    Three Canadair Fighters in 1/32 Scale

    From left to right - Hasegawa/Belcher Bits CF-5A, Italeri CF-104, Hasegawa Sabre Mk.6. Paints used were Xtracolor enamels. Decals by Leading Edge.
  22. 24 points
    Nic C.D.

    EAV-8B Harrier II Plus

    At last there is some paint being used in this build - first time since the build began a few months ago. It's good to see the added, specific details for the Spanish Harrier blend well in the cockpit parts. It is a shame that many of the details will be hidden once the ejection seat will be placed in it, but, hey they're there and it was fun to build them. You can hardly see the rivets I added to the side of the cockpit wall either ... Here are two more views: Now this is done, the exterior of the nose section can be modified where necessary and I can get started with finishing the details on the air intakes and paint them as well. And painting the almost done engine bay. Slowly, the EAV-8B is taking shape. Hope you like the progress! Nic
  23. 24 points
    Lud13

    Messerschmitt Bf 109G-6 Revell 1:32

    Hello guys I finished another Messerchmit BF 109...what else This is 109 Nr. 13 in my collection and its a Revell kit with mix of Eagle Calls and Hasegawa decals. Unfortunaly I had problem with EC decals, both number 7 decals along with two fuselage crosses just disengrated when put in the water. Luckily for me had Hasegawa boxing with same markings so I used those . That's why there is a slight difference in decal color. As for the model itself this is my third Revell Bf 109G-6 finished along with one G-10 and I really starting to hate that landing gear and prop assembly. Rest of the model is more than ok with exception of MG covers which I replaced with resin ones. Model painted with Model Master Authentic enamels with Valejo varnishes. Here are some pictures, hope u like the model One is Hasegawa kit ..Can u guess which one
  24. 24 points
    Thanks Guys! Thanks and yes, with the yellow cap. However, this yellow paint is so translucent I used hardly any. March 30/20 It’s finally time to apply the decals, which absolutely terrified me for four reasons: 1) The only decals available for my subject are the kit ones and I don’t have back-ups, just in case I ruined one. 2) The Kitty Hawk decals in my last build of an F-5E were terrible. Registration was off and they were very thick. 3) If I do ruin a decal, sometimes you have to sand it off down to the paint. With my F-5E, this was easy with the gloss black finish. With this bright yellow bird, however, repainting would be a nightmare. 4) I could not find painting masks that were the right size and font for my subject. With insignias and flags, I needed to use some decals anyway. I fixed #1 when I bought a new kit to get canopy replacements, so that was a bit of a relief, but more on that in a bit. I also think I’m pretty good at decals and I’ve even written an article on the application of same. I’ve made every decaling mistake possible and found many solutions, for those who might be interested here: How To Apply Decals The decal sheet that comes with this kit looks a bit weird. Rather than an outline of film around each decal, there’s an irregularly shaped thick blob of some clear material that almost looks like a plastic cover, as found on HGW wet transfer decals. It is very hard to photograph, but here’s what they look like in my kit replacement. Now here’s what I received in my first kit. Again, it’s hard to photograph, but every single colored decal is flawed with a very rough finish. Thankfully the black lettering sheet was fine, but the other issue with all of the decals is that once you place them, you only have seconds to move it around or you’re done, so you better get it right quickly. I already knew about this, which had been noted in other builds of this kit, like LSP_Kevin’s. So, getting back to my decaling article above, what kind of decals are these? They are good and also bad, depending on what set you wind up with in your kit. The smooth ones in my kit replacement are generally quite thin and good, but the ones in my original kit are rough to begin with and stay rough, which creates new challenges. I started on the bottom of the model like I always do, to give me a feel for the decals before I apply them to the top, where they can always be seen. Unfortunately, the only decals on the bottom are also the hardest ones to do, because the “RCAF” lettering is so big and has lots of decal film. If you tried to apply this decal as one piece you would be doomed, due to the very short amount of time you have to move the decal into place. The best way to handle this is to cut the decal into the individual letters, removing as much decal film as possible. I also applied a thin strip of masking tape as a reference point, to keep the letters in alignment. When I applied each decal, I used lots of plain water and avoided Microset, since I didn’t want any softening of the decal until I had it in place. Once I was happy with the decal placement and removed excess water, I applied a thin coat of Microsol- and then walked away for at least 10 minutes! If you fool around with an adjacent decal while one is drying with Microsol, you are asking for big trouble, so I did some household chores for my wife and decaled at the same time. Everybody was happy! Here is the lettering after everything has dried and I applied a good coat of Tamiya X-22 to seal the decals in. You would be hard pressed to paint lettering this crisply and yes, it is on the correct wing. On other Harvards the “RCAF” is sometimes on the right wing instead, but this aircraft had it on the left wing, where the registration lettering “CF-UUU” now resides instead. Now a neat little trick I figured out, that I will use again. I always like to decal on a horizontal surface, so doing the sides of a model can be a pain with the model on my lap or a desk chair like I used in my article. Looking around the house, it struck me that a suitcase on wheels, with a bath towel shoved into an opening at the top, provided the perfect platform for this task. It holds the model securely; the towel protects the paint and I can move it around easily. Cool! As I did on the bottom, I cut out each individual letter and aligned everything on the side before I applied my first decal. I then applied a number of decals that were not near each other, gave a coat of Microsol and again walked away for 10 minutes. Done! Now a bit of a walkaround, after the decals had dried overnight and sealed in with X-22. Two and three piece decals are always tricky and cause the most problems with Microsol. You want the decal to settle into panel line and rivet detail, but you also don’t want to use too much Microsol, because the surface of the decal shrinks and reacts to it more than the backing underneath it (which is a different color). Here I have some rivet detail coming through, but the white is also starting to discolor with the blue underneath. Time to stop! The other side again…. And a quick view of the front, where I have now painted the heat shroud where the exhaust will hang with Alclad Steel and Stainless Steel Now some true confessions. For the most part, the decals from the replacement kit performed very well and I didn’t have many issues, but as usual, I had to replace two of them and repair another with parts of another decal, so it was a bit of a struggle at times. My strong suggestion is that if you use the kit decals, try to have a back-up set, which can be found from those who did not use them. I also wished I had placed one or two small decals slightly differently, but this aircraft has been repainted at least 5 times, so references are all over the place anyway. With the decals now done I’m on the backstretch of this build, but I still have many more things to do with the landing gear, antennae, tiny lights, prop, engine/exhaust installation and that damn canopy! Cheers, Chuck
  25. 24 points
    Hey all- got to sling some paint last few days..I’m pretty happy with the armor plated floor. If you’ve ever watched Inside Combat Rescue on TV, you’ve seen how filthy and nasty these helicopters get downrange..I watched them literally hose down the cabin with a garden hose... cheers Pete
  26. 23 points
    Thunnus

    1/32 Revell Bf109G-6/AS Hohenjager

    Thanks guys! Especially the additional info on Horst Carganico's Mickey Mouse markings! Work continues on the G-6. The exhausts have been painted. Alclad Steel sprayed straight onto the resin as a base. Tinted with Alclad Exhaust Manifold, drybrushed with some rusty reddish brown color and then the tips were sprayed black. After the starboard side decals were completed, I sprayed the model with a light coat of Alclad Aqua Gloss. I use a custom-mixed, water-based pastel wash. All of the past riveting, filling and re-scribing comes to the surface. After the applied wash is dry, the model is wiped clean with a damp paper towel. It's funny that its called a wash when you are actually dirtying up things. I'm going to let this sit for a day. Before the wash is sealed with a clear coat, it's good to step away and then come back to make sure you clean off all of the wash. Some inadvertent stains are good, others will detract so I'll take a look with fresh eyes tomorrow. I love the look of the AMUR Reaver G-6/AS cowling. It has those bulged muscular proportions that made the DB605 aircraft so cool.
  27. 23 points
    Renegade

    1/32 Mirage F.1C

    Hi guys, Very strange too almost never be at home, and now with the current situation and a lockdown enforced, I have to keep myself busy. A friend of mine wanted to test different printing styles on his home 3D printer a while ago, and asked me for a challenge. So I said a 1/32 Mirage F.1C would be nice, thinking he would not be able to pull it off...lol. Well, he delivered a 1/32 F.1C as best a basic 3D printer can. Oh boy, it's rough, it'll make a blind man cry, but I like a challenge. Even more when it's an aircraft I have a great passion for. A ton of filler and layers of primer later, Started scribing panel lines, and she's starting to look the part https://i.imgur.com/1p0pX
  28. 23 points
    Thunnus

    1/32 Revell Bf109G-6/AS Hohenjager

    Work continues on the G-6/AS. The bisected inner flaps were painted using mottled black as a preshading base. This represents the process that will be used on the overall aircraft. The DF loop antenna base was re-shaped using Milliput. The loop itself was cut off and replaced with a strip of aluminum from a soda can. The landing gear legs were painted. A brake line made of lead wire was added. The prop blades were painted RLM70 Black Green over a Tamiya AS-12 Silver base and slightly chipped using hairspray. The blades were then given a couple of salt fading passes. The prop blades were attached to the spinner with the help of the mounting jig that Barracuda sells separately. This ensures that the blade position and pitch are uniformly correct. A test fit of the finished prop onto the unpainted fuselage...
  29. 23 points
    Hello all and thanks again for the fine comments! Got a good bit of the cockpit done. Construction article here… Had a great time working on this. I’ll say this is the first time I’ve added dust and dirt to a model cockpit. Many photos of these jets show a good bit of dust and dirt and nothing ventured nothing gained so I went for it. Photos exaggerate the effect, mostly because with so much black paint lots of contrast is needed to see details. Hey what’s a tank doing here? Read the article…. Thanks for checking in guys… Cheers, Timmy!
  30. 23 points
    One you won't see every day. Here is my 1:32 scale LEMKITS MiG-9. These kits are very well engineered.
  31. 22 points
    So rather quicker than expected we have found ourselves in self isolation after my step daughter was sent home from school on Tuesday afternoon, annoyingly the girls had been at their Dads since Saturday when the syptoms apparently first started but where ignored and the first we knew of it was from the school, They normaly return back to us on Tuesday after school anyway but.......... Some people are really irresponsible but hey, i'll leave that one there. So I had no other option than to start a new build and decided on the Wingnut's Fokker D.VII, I missed out on the original D.VIIF boxing so I'm using the Early Fokker boxing, downloaded the D.VIIF insruction book from Wingnut Wings and purchased the extra BMW engine sprue and Fighting Fokkers F decal sheet. I've also got Taurus models engine detail set, HGW belts, Master barrels and Aviattic decals to add to the build. Not to much to show yet but spent yesterday preparing cockpit parts for paint, today I cocentrated on the wing assemblies and have them undercoated, pre shaded and glossed ready for decal application. Enjoying the chance to really get some serios modelling time in, I know its an awful situation we are all in but time to stay indoors and make the most of this fantastic hobby. Stay safe everyone and happy modelling. Regards. Andy
  32. 22 points
    red Dog

    1/24 Airfix MkVb to LF MkIX

    Final report of a completed long haul conversion from a 1/24 Airfix Spitfire MkVb to a late LF MkIX Started this one last July so about 8 months worth of bench time. This one really put my mojo to test and I'm glad it's over !! I guess I now understand why we don't see too many late Mk Spitfires in 1/24 but in the best tradition, I am now clearing Airfix (or anyone else) to release one ... Full WIP is in the in progress forum Thank you all LSpers for the support while building. I doubt this would have been completed without the forum
  33. 22 points
    DrDave

    IBG PZL P11c

    OOB apart from the Master barrel guns. Superb kit. great fit. Paints are MRP. This one didn't carry a radio.
  34. 22 points
    Hello everybody, New project start: I would like to show you the model I am working on in my free time at home. This is a model PZL P.6 from 1931 on my 1/32 "racing" scale. The model is to complement the racing collection that I have been creating for several years, the collection of aircraft from National Air Races racing for the Pulitzer award. These spectacular races took place cyclically before the war in Cleveland, Ohio. Poles and their machines presented themselves twice in these races. The first was Capt. Bolesław Orliński on PZL P.6 aircraft in 1931 and a year later Capt. Jerzy Kossowski on the PZL P.11 aircraft (whose model, also from scratch, I have already made) The PZL P.6 aircraft was a prototype fighter plane developed in 1930 at PZL (PeZetL) of the Polish Aviation Works. The designer of this modern and ground-breaking construction, for those times, was the outstanding engineer Zygmunt Puławski. PZL P.6 was a further development of the PZL P.1 aircraft concept developed by Puławski for a liquid-cooled in-line engine. In P.6, innovative technical solutions were used, such as the "Polish wing" developed by Puławski, a scissor chassis and a very modern and light, half-shell hull structure. The prototype was a demonstration and experimental machine, it had no weaponry. At the end of 1930, the aircraft was presented at the International Aviation Salon in Paris, where it was recognized by the industry press as the most modern fighter aircraft in the world. In this archival film you can see P.6 and Orliński in action (minute 11:47) I derive knowledge about this aircraft mainly from monograph PZL P.7 no. 72 AJ Press publishers, but I also support materials for P.11 and P.24, and what I can get from the Internet. The main drawings are enlarged from 1/48 to 1/32 scale and I build the whole model based on them. The hull for forming the hull was made of MDF board, on which I then formed hot (vacu method) half of the hull: Because there is no commercially available Gnome-Rhone Jupiter VI model in 1/32 scale, so I made it myself: Work on the model is more advanced, so next pictures I will show you soon. Thank you for your attention, best regards Marcin
  35. 22 points
    March 13/20 Well I don't know what it's like where you live, but here in Calgary the C-Virus hysteria is at a peak. Businesses are closed and we are told to stay home and hide under our beds until further notice. Further, the weather has turned cold again, so what's a guy to do? How about Model?! With every sport shut down, I can't think of a better hobby when you're stuck indoors, can you? First Paint, which is my favorite part of modeling. A first coat of paint will tell you how well you assembled and glued the plastic together, which can sometimes be disappointing. That's why I go to the effort of using a dark wash during assembly, which reveals flaws before they are painted and are easier to fix. Luckily, I found only a couple of new ones, which I have already repaired. Before painting, it was time to glue in the extensive Eduard PE brass rear flaps, which I had left off to avoid damaging the delicate detail within. The fit is excellent, but I still had to sand off some of the brass at the rear to ensure a clean rear edge. If you build this kit, I highly recommend the Eduard "BIG Ed" kit, which has lots of detail missing on the kit parts. I usually use Tamiya Gloss Black lacquer as a first coat rather than a true primer, but for this yellow bird I'm using Gloss White instead (TS-26 Pure White from a rattle can). This should make painting the yellow easier and with less paint. Since it's just an undercoat, I have sprayed it on relatively thin to retain detail, hence the blotchy appearance. One great thing about this model is that both the wheel wells and flaps are painted the same yellow as the rest of the aircraft, which makes painting so much easier. That probably wasn't the original paint scheme, but it is now, which is all that matters. One of the flaws found after paint are the ridges along the rear of the wing, which are due to sink marks around the flap detail underneath. These were totally invisible before, but thankfully easy to sand off and remove. I will let this paint dry for two full days, then lightly sand off crap and other imperfections, followed by 2 coats of yellow, which will be Tamiya TS-34 Camel Yellow, which is the perfect shade of yellow with an orange tinge found on these trainers. The "Camel" it turns out, is the same yellow as found on Camel cigarette packages. Who knew!? Cheers- and wash your hands! Chuck
  36. 21 points
    LSP_Ray

    I think I am offended...

    My life loves to watch British TV, so we subscribed to Acorn TV. She especially likes the Brit murder mysteries and some of the comedies. So she started in on Mount Pleasant. Wouldn't you know one of the weirder neighbors who is married to a love-starved woman turns out to be a modeler. All he thinks about is modeling in his little shed. She manages to get his attention when she buys him an Airfix 1/24th Harrier. Next shows them both happy in the bedroom, him with a big grin as he stares at his Harrier hanging from the ceiling over the bed. They kill him off though when he has a problem flying his RC F-117. It ends up crashing into his face. Not right, I say.
  37. 21 points
    1/32 Revell kit HGW wet transfers Eduard Look instrument panel, mask Barracuda wheels Eagle Cals #138 All colours MRP
  38. 21 points
    John1

    Forgotten War Mustang - F-51D in Korea

    Looking for something a bit different than just another ETO P-51D, I opted to build a Korean War era F-51D. Differences between a WW2 spec Mustang and a Korean War version varied from aircraft to aircraft but in general - "cuffless" Hamiliton Standard props, additional radio equipment aft of the pilot's seat, provisions for 6 5" HVAR rockets on underwing stub fittings and (in some but not all cases), a locked down tailwheel. From a painting standpoint, I learned that many of these Mustangs were actually painted Matt Aluminum during refurbishment, instead of being left in natural metal. At the same time, many had the cockpits painted black. One thing that attracted me to the F-51D was that unlike in Europe where these aircraft were cutting edge thoroughbreds, in Korea, they were expendable "bomb-trucks" that often flew 4-5 times/day. As such, most of these Mustangs were absolutely filthy. Here are a couple of examples of the real thing, I used these as guides for my weathering: Below, note the scratched "USAF" which was from foot traffic during the rushed re-arming process. And one of the the cockpit. This is an unrestored F-51D, note the heavy weathering and patchy black finish. Here is the finished model. It's the Tamiya P-51D/K version. Aftermarket bits include Barracuda resin wheels and cockpit bits, Quickboost resin propeller blades, Brian Fawcett resin HVAR launchers, donated Tamiya HVAR's and for decals, Barracuda's awesome cockpit placard set, Print To Scale's F-51D set and Fundekals P-51D stencils. All the radio gear in the back and many small odds and ends were scratchbuilt. d And the finished kit: And for those that are curious about my "colorful" napalm tanks, I got my inspiration from this: Thanks for looking!
  39. 21 points
    Thank you! I've got the tail feathers painted and weathered. Figured it was time to snap the thing together and recharge my mojo seeing it as a aircraft and not a collection of various colored of green parts. Thanks for looking
  40. 20 points
    Koralik

    A-10A Thunderbolt II Trumpeter 1:32

    . A-10A Thunderbolt II from Trumpeter 1:32 scale The model is not the best, made as always straight from the box using a rather poor set of decals. Set: Trumpeter Decals: Trumpeter Paint: Sikkens Autowave II
  41. 20 points
    airscale

    1/18 Focke-Wulf Fw190C V18 'Känguruh'

    afternoon ladies thank you so much for the warm welcome on this build I am really excited about it even though it is as far as you can get from the well documented P51C with a full library of every drawing available to look up.. I will just have to domore 'interpretation' than usual! Thanks Roger & Alain - I am already in your debt, for the info you have already sent and am going to need wingmen like you to help me on this one Ah Wackyracer, you were pipped to the post by one, otherwise you would have been my very first Patron! I have really enjoyed making video blogs of the build to compliment WIP posts and think it really does bring another dimension to not only what I do, but sharing it with you good folks another video went up this morning, so do catch that one Hi Miamiangler- stay safe over there and can't wait to see a fellow build of this engimatic aircraft So where were we... breaking up the 21st Century Toys 'toy' into bits... The model is mainly made up from bits that are either screwed together, or have 'nubs' that pass through a hole and are then melted with what looks like a soldering iron, so by breaking out those nubs it came to pieces quite easily & quickly... ..the fuselage and all those bits... ..and the wings and all those bits... ..comparing to plans, the shapes are pretty good - the fuselage is a tad short at the tail, but that's no problem to correct later.. ..and the wings are fine.. ..the model is covered in deep panel lines which will be a problem when it comes to skinning, so the first step was to fill these with P40 filler... ..no this is not some late war camoflage, this is what it looks like after sanding the filler down... ..the recess for the airscoop was also filled.. ..then the fuselage & wings were shot with some high build primer - mainly so I have a unified looking set of parts to work with, but also to help visualisation.. ..have also started to gather what drawings I can find and start translating them into what will become a large photo-etch set, although the etcher's I use PPD have suspended trading due to covid so that will be a while yet ..and even while preparing that top instrument panel part, I learned thanks to forum contributors that this Fw190 would have had ancilliary instruments like this shot of a high altitude test aircraft - this is what I will copy I expect... so, we are on our way.... a million parts to go, but I think it is going to be a blast Don't forget, if you fancy it, video builds and articles are and will continue to be posted on Patreon TTFN Peter
  42. 20 points
    JT68

    Wingnut Wings FE.2b (Late)..

    Hi all, Just finished up this one, Wingnut Wings FE.2b (Late), its taken a long time to complete, I started it in 2016, and put it on the back burner until resuming work on it around September last year. Its unbelievable how a company can kit a model like this, and lay out all the direction you need to build it.Kits like this are great value for money, with the time it takes to put one together. I dont know if James Fahey is a member here, but I would like to thank him for his reference pics, I couldn't have rigged this without them, they are a gold mine of reference. I know the British aircraft used the flat type rigging wires on their aircraft, but that was going to be too much trying to install that type of rigging on this build, so I just used normal thread, ...I used Bob's Buckles eyelets and brass tube for rigging, plus some Gaspatch turnbuckles. For some reason the wood grain on my pics always looks darker and more reddish tone than it does in person, must be my camera or lens, dont know why it does it, ....you can see it looks a bit lighter on the in progress pics I took with my Iphone All comments and critiques welcome. Thanks for looking, Cheer's, Jeff.
  43. 20 points
    Afternoon all It's been a while since I've done anything on this long-term build, but decided to get it back out for a bit of TLC and decided to jump straight back in and tackle something that I'd been needing to correct... When building the fuselage what seems like years ago I had somehow managed to make the extreme rear fuselage (where the rear observation glazing mates) completely the wrong shape. In my example, you can see I've made the fuselage sides curved, and the upper and lower fuselage too curved as well: IMG_1859 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr ...when compared to the real thing - taken at the Charlwood museum - which shows flat sides and top: Tail Glazing by Thomas Probert, on Flickr So, using some better plans as well as the good old Mk1 eyeball, I made a new shape for the rear fuselage: IMG_1861 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr ...which when offered up already improves the look: IMG_1860 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr The difference has now been built up with filler, and slowly a much better-shaped rear fuselage is beginning to emerge: IMG_1868 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr Still plenty of shaping and blending to do, but I'm much happier with this now. I've also began inserting the framing into the cockpit as these will be needed to support the glazing when the time comes: IMG_1867 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr I'm enjoying being back on this - let's see how long the motivation lasts! All the best, Tom
  44. 20 points
    Phartycr0c

    HPH FW 189 Eagle Owl.

    Having started the 189 following the Wessex issue, My good lady encouraged me to have a go at rebuilding said beast as "she liked it and thought it was really beautiful colours" so i decided to have a go. Phone images to hide the issues.......... So with that now done, I return my attention to the UHU ............ Cleanup of parts......... who wants to see cleanup of parts.? to be continued.
  45. 20 points
    themongoose

    F-100D Thunderbirds SIX

    My latest Thunderbird in the series comes to you loaded down with aftermarket goodies. I had picked up quite a bit over time for it so decided I would have to do it wheels down. yes I know, an oddity for me. Then as I was building it and looking at reference pictures I only saw 2 with drop tanks on it. Hey there's an idea, if I am going to break up the Thunderbird graphic on the bottom let's load it up. The perfect theme came to mind, HEADING HOME. Trumpeter shows this smoke system on the box art but there's nothing in the box haha. So I made it up with piano wire and shrink tubing...just suttle heat affects on the exhaust. Most pics of the Thunderbirds show this area very shiny. The museum birds have been polished to death, I avoided doing those :-) Super fun build with lots of help from the forum. Check out my WIP for details. Thanks so much everyone!
  46. 19 points
    Thunnus

    1/32 Revell Bf109G-6/AS Hohenjager

    Gloss coat applied (Alclad Aqua Gloss)... Port side decals about 75% done...
  47. 19 points
    Wolf Buddee

    Tamiya 1/32 F4U-1A

    Hopefully this photo will show what I was trying to accomplish by adding those small photo etch pieces from Part. Cheers, Wolf
  48. 19 points
    shark64

    Westland Wessex helicopter.

  49. 19 points
    Many thanks Gentlemen, it is indeed good to be able to start moving again with this build! Here's where we stand with the new nose mockup.... It's hard to portray in the photos, but I think you can see the difference. The cockpit/roof relationship on my original is just too "boxy" compared to the new effort. I like the sharpness the brass gave, but at the end of the day if it's wrong it's wrong. I always put things like this down not as wasted time, but valuable R&D so I hopefully don't make the same mistake twice! The next step is to produce each side in resin, then set about removing the existing fuselage. Funny, I was helping a mate renovate his house today and spent a few hours demolishing an old shower recess...... that's exactly what this feels like! Before anyone panics though, I will NOT be using a crowbar on my model . See you in a bit. Craig
  50. 19 points
    Grant_T

    Revell 1/32 Hawker Hunter

    I just needed to finish something after a bit of a break from 1/32 so this is out of the box. The kit is okay, but detail is lacking in some areas and the gear are super flimsy. Not my best work to be honest, but nice to have it done.
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