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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/04/2020 in all areas

  1. 43 points
    Hello all, I hope you all have been surviving lockdown by modelling-on.....I have. I set about Trumpeters P-47D bubble top version and I was pretty pleased with the kit, I have but the Razorback version and that game me a lot of issues, so this was a surprise and a pleasure. I attempted for the first time a natural metal finish (NMF), so I tried using extreme metal paint by AK and I found them very fragile and had to have a change of plan. I opted for the Mr metal colour paints by Gunze and these were fantastic and very durable when applied. I added a few aftermarket pieces, these were the resin wheels by Brassin and the gun barrels set from Master (32115) and I get rid of the metal seatbelts and made my own from masking tape as I can never get the photo etch belts to 'sit' right. Anyway, here she is...…..I give you Miss Fire which was piloted by Piot-Frederick Christensen in England 1944 All comments welcome :-)
  2. 40 points
    Gewehr 43

    B-25J Air Apache

    This is my rendition of B-25J s/n 43-36199, as it would have appeared in late spring, 1945 in the Philippines. At the time, it was serving in the 501st Bomb Squadron of the 345th Bomb Group - the famed "Air Apaches." This group was famous for transforming the B-25 from a medium altitude bomber, to a low-level attack aircraft. With eight forward-firing M2 .50 caliber machine guns in the nose, and a potent bomb load, strafer B-25s savaged Japanese shipping all throughout the Pacific campaigns. This particular aircraft had its nose reconfigured to the strafer configuration in the field and it was never repainted. At some point before the reference photos, its right rudder was replaced, leaving only part of the unit insignia and tail number. Oddly, the reference photos show the vertical stabilizer to be darker than the replacement rudder, so I tried to capture that here. I recently traded a member here my glass nose version for his strafer kit, and below is the result. Thanks, Reuben! This is the HK Models 1/32 kit with a significant number of add-ons. I used Eduard photoetch sets for the cockpit, bomb bay, and fuselage in addition to their resin wheel kit. I also included AMS resin props, G-Factor brass landing gear, Master Model brass .50cal MG barrels, and EagleCals aftermarket decals for the kill marks, crew names, and tail insignia. All national insignia and markings are custom made on my stencil cutter. Paints were MRP, Tamiya, and Vallejo. Weathering was a mix of everything - MIG enamel washes & pigments, oils, silver pencils, airbrush, etc. I really threw the kitchen sink at this one. Hope you like it. Reference photos taken just after a crash landing: 199 in happier times:
  3. 39 points
    airscale

    1/18 P51C Mustang "Lopes Hope the 3rd"

    Hi folks Eric from Aircorps Aviation who restored the real Lopes Hope 3rd has been in touch asking for some pictures for the current owner – I thought as I had them, I might share them as I haven’t done an RFI post It’s not actually finished yet as I am waiting for the display case to be built so it can go in there dust free and safe, but there are only a few things to do like aerials, fix the canopy parts properly & detail them, and the drop tanks & mounts The final pic is with a US aircraft compass to give a sense of scale TTFN Peter
  4. 34 points
    Pete Fleischmann

    Got my jet back from rehab

    After my emergency gear-up landing back in 2018, the jet is back, fully operational, and has some new Garmin avionics. missed the old girl. cheers Pete
  5. 31 points
    1/32 Tamiyia F4 Phantom VF-33 TARSIERS The main build was OTB, apart from the ordnance which is Eduard, the pilots are resin figures and the yellow shirt is from Reedoak. Many of you will know my preferred paint is MRP , just because it drys really quickly, and allows a lot more applications of weathering than other paints. The decals are from MILSPEC, which I have to say were very nice to work with. And on this occasion the base was built by my good friend Mario Catania, he’s very good , you should go over to his face book page and see what he’s doing. Established in September 1943, VF-33 were first equipped with the Grumman F6F "Hellcat". Their first operation was to the Soloman islands, the first time a US Navy squadron has used the F6F in combat. VF-33 was land based at this time, supporting the island hopping Pacific campaign. VF-33 disestablished in July 1946. VF-33 was re-established on the 11th of October 1948, this time flying the famous Chance-Vought F4U "Corsair". After seeing action during the Korean war (and being awarded the Navy Unit Citation for their success) several changes of equipment and location followed in quick succession. By 1962 the unit was flying F8U-2NE "Crusaders" from the world's first nuclear powered aircraft carrier, the USS Enterprise (CVN-65) and as part of this team took part in the blockade of Cuba. In 1964 the squadron started to become familiar with the aircraft which (in two different versions) would last them the next 17 years and became the backbone of Naval Fighter Aviation. The plane was, of course, the F-4 "Phantom II". Initially equipped with the F-4B, VF-33 set a new Atlantic Fleet record by winning the CNO Aviation Safety Award for four years in a row (1961-64). However VF-33's time with the F-4B was short and in 1967 they upgraded to the F-4J. The new F- 4 featured a different radar, higher thrust engines, slatted tailplanes, extra fuel cells and larger main wheels (to handle the increased weight). Almost as soon as the new F-4's were received VF-33 was once again deployed to combat, this time to South-East Asia onboard USS America (CV-66). During their time in theatre VF-33 dropped over 3,000,000 pounds of ordnance! This was in the space of 4000 combat hours flown over 5 months. On the 10th of July 1968 a VF-33 bird downed a MiG- 21C, the first air to air kill by an East Coast Fighter squadron over N.Vietnam. After returning from Vietnam VF-33 continued it's association with CVW-7 and USS Independence (CV-62), deploying most years. Several awards were won during this time, including the CNO safety award in 1969 and 1970. The 75-76 cruise saw the squadron win the Golden Tailhook Award,
  6. 31 points
    Hello all, I hope you all have been surviving lockdown by modelling-on.....this is the second Jug of lockdown. I set about Trumpeters P-47D Razorback version this time and found that the Razorback was a bit more of a drama than the Double top version, I think it maybe a different mould completely. Its a little tricky to get together and line up, but as long as you proceed slowly with the build, you should be fine. I added a few aftermarket pieces, these were the resin wheels by Brassin and the gun barrels set from Master (32115) and I get rid of the metal seatbelts and made my own from masking tape as I can never get the photo etch belts to 'sit' right. Paints were from Gunze Mr Colour range and as ever.....are brilliant. I added some magnets into the wing where the pylons attach, then added some magnets in the pylons so the lower wing is untouched for displaying without the pylons attached or kept clean. So here is aircraft 42-75242 which was flown by Capt Michael Quirk flying for 62nd FS/56th FG, Halesworth. I'll add a link to the Bubbletop..... Thanks for looking :-)
  7. 30 points
    As some predicted, my summer has been well and truly taken up with these little beauties. Lockdown has been kind to me, affording me both time to be a stay home dad to our 2 year old, and giving me plenty of bench time. I present to you all, a pair of Tamiya F-16Cs. One dressed up in the newest incarnation of the arctic splinter scheme from Eielson Air Force Base, Alaska. The second is the truly spectacular ‘Zeus’, from the Hellenic Air Force F-16 demonstration team. Both have been built gear up and will be posed in dynamic turning positions once I’ve made stands on which to mount them. Both have been built OOB with the exception of a couple of resin load out parts for the Aggressor jet. I’ve forgone a little accuracy with the Block versions to keep the build cost down. Arctic Aggressor. AMS Resin ACMI pod. Eduard Brassin AN/ALQ-188. DN Masks for the splinter scheme. TwoBobs sheet 32-068 decals. Vallejo model air Aggressor paint set. ‘Zeus’ CFTs and extended Para’ pack tail from an Academy ‘Suva’ kit, kindly received by donation. ’Smokewinders’ were created by removing the detail from a pair of kit missiles and reshaping the nose and fins. Paint masks from Model Maker Decals, meant for the Academy kit, but with lots of patience and extra masking tape, work with the Tamika kit. Just be very careful when studying the placement of masks before committing to paint. The top surface came from using Mr Hobby Aqueous paints. The blue shades all coming from guestimated mix ratios. Undersurface paint from Hataka Lacquer HAF paint set. Onwards to a few piccies then. I hope you enjoy looking at them as much as I enjoyed building these two.
  8. 29 points
    turbo

    Matchbox 1/32 Bf109E-3 Resurrection

    Hi folks, here is my resurrection of an old partly-built Matchbox 1/32 Bf109E-3. The kit was given to me by a friend who had it left to him by a housemate way back when and had been sitting in storage for however many decades. It was just what I needed to get me going again after a nearly 2 year absence from the bench. This venerable old kit, first produced in 1977, is a piece of modelling history so I couldn't resist building it as is with no aftermarket parts and just a few tweaks to things I couldn't ignore (although nothing I couldn't have done in 1977). It has a lot of age-related shortcomings (don't we all!), but I think Matchbox did a wonderful job with the form and lines of the Emil given the technology at the time. The scheme I chose is the mount of Uffz Karl Wolff of 3./JG 52 based in Calais during 1940. He crash landed Yellow 15 on August 30 1940 and was later shot down and bailed out over Sussex on 30 September 1940 in Yellow 14, becoming a prisoner for the remainder of WWII. No aftermarket items were used apart from Montex masks for painting of markings. Paints were largely Gunze and Tamiya acrylics and weathering was with oils, enamels, and salt fading. The full build thread can be found here: So chuck on some ABBA, break out the fondue set and I hope you enjoy the trip back to 1977... Cheers, Kirby
  9. 29 points
    Juggernut

    Zoukei-Mura Ta152H-0, III JG301

    I've FINALLY finished this one and all I can say is "Good riddens"! This kit was not a fun build and with the piecemeal style build of the ZM kit, this one was a bear to get reasonably correct. I managed to screw up the left and right wings when assembling and had to correct (remove about 1/16" from subsequent assemblies going forward) parts fit as the build progressed. If you have this kit please take note that when you assemble the wing bottoms to the spar assembly, install the center section first and make absolutely sure it's centered or you might wind up like mine did. I replaced the 20mm wing guns with brass tube and the prop is a HD VS9. It's painted (somewhat ham-handed I'll admit) as yellow 2 from III, JG301 in the early part of 1945. I was going to build wooden flaps but I got impatient with the build and decided to model them up so I could get on with it. I filled all the panel lines on the tail to represent the Ta152 wooden tail. It's not known how many Ta152H's were fitted with the wooden tail but this one is (based on the Hitchcock Ta152 text and profile therein of Yellow 2). It's not some of my best work but it's ok. My Nikon D3400 catches little white dots that I can't really see with my eyes. I haven't a clue where these come from but surmise that they're from the Testor's Dullcote I used (the white dots on the canopy are the dessicant packs (decals) and are supposed to be there). The mottling on the fuselage only came out so-so and after having messed with air pressures and paint consistencies until I was sick of it, I just settled on the best I could get from my old Passche H and you'll noticed paint spatter. Afterward, I went out and purchased an Iwata gravity feed airbrush so the next time I do mottling, I may have a bit better luck. I used Testor's enamel RLM 76, Floquil RLM 82 (its actually labeled as RLM 83 but I guess it's now accepted that 83 was dark green and 82 was bright green), and White Ensign Models (now Sovereign Hobby or something like that) RLM 83. The WEM RLM 83 looks more like RLM81 to my eye. Oh, decals are from the awesome Eagle Editions sheet and really are a vast improvement over the kit decals. I added pastel exhaust stains and general staining after these photos were taken. Oh well, on the with photos....
  10. 28 points
    Phartycr0c

    HPH FW 189 Uhu

    Entering into the foray of my first full resin kit build, I decided on the 189 as its an unusual subject very rarely modelled in any scale let alone gods own 1/32. I have to say, I really enjoyed putting this together and while I did have a few issues of my own doing, generally, if the clean up is done correctly, it goes together well with few fit issues. The problem areas i encountered were around the following areas. Where the booms attach to the underside of the wings, a gap needs to be dealt with. The glazing at the rear of the fuselage where the transition from square to round took me an age to deal with. its still not spot on but this was more likely a me issue rather than the kit itself. The section of upper fuselage was undersized and needed considerable shimming and re alignment to mate with the glazed areas. Again its not spot on but its good enough for government work as they say. First time with a HPH kit. The glazing was weird, being soft and maleable polypropelene (i Think) they gould be bent easily without cracking or other damage. There are other mistakes I have made but for anyone who is thinking of building this kit, do it, just ensure you take your time and dry fit multiple times before committing to glue. Anyhow, on with the show. Based VERY VERY loosely on this colour scheme, Here we go.
  11. 28 points
    airscale

    1/18 Focke-Wulf Fw190C V18 'Känguruh'

    Afternoon gentlemen ..thanks for the vote of confidence on the RLM66 colour - I will stick with this one Some Fw190 bobbins for your entertainment.. ..I painted the layers of PE for the instrument panel – there is a backplate (not shown), a layer with just the bezel surrounds and the blanked instrument in black, and the detail layer in RLM66.. The lower panel has some colour coding (thanks Roger) for the instruments that are on their way and should be here next week.. ..also made the ‘Ausgleichsgefäss’ that sits under the main panel from many punched discs (the 3D print didn’t really work..) ..and the artificial horizon, now just awaiting instruments & placard decals… ..while waiting I have been readying all the PE I will need for the gear wells and a load of other bits – using lots of pictures like this to map it all out.. Notice the dimples and the raised ribbed panel next to them.. ..after many hours of work, here you can see the mainspar, wheelwell roof and some of the wing ribs printed out, stuck to litho and being test fitted.. ..I wanted to start with the roof as these won’t be PE anyway, the drawings are just to give me working templates.. ..here printed, stuck to a sheet of Perspex and all the centres of all the dimples being marked.. ..and my first ever use of my new mini Proxxon milling machine to machine the depressions.. ..added the sidewalls and some filler to fair them in as the pressing is curved at the sides and primed to make sure all was well.. ..starting to work annealed litho into the female mould… the completed one you can see at the front is the first version I did in a video episode on my Patreon build after which I realised I had made the depressions too big (& therefore the dimples..) ..re-adding a template so I can see the panel outline and start cutting it to shape.. ..and the completed parts… ..the ribbed panel was approached in a similar way, just reversed so instead of dimples it makes raised strengthening ribs.. ..sticking templates down to mark out where the ribs go.. ..ribs added and a wash of thin CA.. ..cleaned up, rounded edges and primed.. ..litho being worked into shape.. ..and the finished panels with the rivets etc added.. ..a day’s work… ..and checking for fit.. ..happy with how they turned out, and don’t forget, if you want to see how parts like this are made and join me in the ups and downs of this build, please join my Patreon TTFN Peter
  12. 27 points
    Here is my recently completed 1/32 Hasegawa Bf109G-14 build of Erich Hartmann's Double Chevron. The aftermarket items used in this build include: 1. MDC Bf109G-14 Cockpit Set 2. MDC Bf109G Tail Wheel 3. RB Productions Bf109G-6 Wheel Wells 4. Resin exhausts (maker unknown) 5. Strategic Ordnance Works Bf109G Landing Gear 6. Barracuda Bf109G-6 Spinner and Prop 7. Barracuda Bf109G-6 Oil Cooler Fairing Major markings were painted with custom cut masks from my Silhouette Portrait cutter. AK Real Color paints were used to establish the underlying RLM74/75/76 camo. Tamiya and Mr Hobby Aqueous paints were also used. The complete build log can be found here:
  13. 27 points
    Hey everyone, It's been a while since I posted a build here. I'm not good enough to be a slow builder, but there has been a lot of armor and other scale stuff that I've spent time on. Once in a while, there is a photo that pops up that just know you must do. Sometimes, I find that other modellers have already beat me to the punch, and I need to find another scheme. I did Wollf's D.Va by WNW a couple years ago, and although I enjoyed every minute of it, I felt like I was just 'assembling' somebody else' fantastic work once finished. This has caused me to give away the remainder of the Green Tail Trilogy decals. Likewise with this Fokker D.VII. This kit is actually the Fokker D.VII (Alb). But I have dressed it up as a Fokker D.VII (OAW). And here is my inspiration photo: I've probably gotten quite a few things wrong... but what else can you do when you have one picture? Guesswork. And a little help from some people who know more. Anyway... here are my results: Thank you for looking!
  14. 26 points
    And some detail shots. Next stage will be to paint the metal areas, nose cone and smaller details.
  15. 25 points
    Thanks for the pic. I am certain that if you identified this problem to Roy again, he would replace the defective part- again. I have used Barracuda products countless times and have always been thrilled with the quality, service and even the price. He could charge 25% more and I'd still buy everything he had for a specific build. Now that I think of it, maybe I got two good noses while you got two bad ones, because one of them was meant for you!? July 21/20 A quick update, but one covering all of Steps 21 to 27. Step 21 is the front radiator parts H9 and H43, while Step 22 is the rear rad parts H10 and H44: Assembly is straight forward, but fitting these parts into the narrowed nose is another matter. The front part H9 on the left needs to be sanded quite a bit to get it to fit, while the rear rad on the right needs some sanding, but less so. Interior parts of the Barracuda nose were ground down as well with many iterative dry fits. Don’t rush this, because you want a tight fit with no gaps later. Step 23 and Step 26 create the central intake ring with 3 different parts. These parts can be eliminated by using the Barracuda one piece resin part, which is much finer and accurate. Make sure you carefully follow the instructions so that you retain at least a mm of the ring at the rear, which fits into Part H43. This takes a bit of trimming of both parts to get them to mesh. Step 24 is very confusing. It looks like you glue together the assemblies in Step 21 and 22 together. Don’t do it! Instead, after trimming and painting the assemblies, you can glue the front radiator parts flush with the back of the intake. And the rear assembly to some tabs within the nose. Everything is only dry fit of course. The air ramp at the rear comes in two parts, E1 and E18 in Step 27. And after a little sanding and trimming, they click into grooves within the nose, resting against the rear rad. These parts do not fit each other at all, so I recommend you trim and dry fit them many times before committing to glue. It turns out all the panel lines and rivet detail are mostly correct, but I added the two small panel lines and rivets on part E1 (front of pic) as per references. After trimming and a little coaxing with masking tape, this assembly fits pretty good now, so once it is painted, I will glue everything together before attaching the nose to the fuselage. The last assembly as found above in Step 26 is the vent created with parts E2 and E3. This will also be glued later after painting. That’s it for a few more weeks boys. Enjoy the summer while it lasts! Cheers, Chuck
  16. 25 points
    I've taken the B-17 off the wall and added the last few items to it. I wanted some dramatic blue skies pictures of it but the weather is either really windy or raining so, I took these (rather poor) pictures of the FINALLY FINISHED display. Granted the pictures are kind of crappy dark out of focus and with a horrible back drop. But, it's because the only room big enough to take pictures of this is my garage; Now I just have to hide it away somewhere until I can get it to a show...someplace. Thank you for looking
  17. 24 points
    i would probably take the B58..
  18. 23 points
    HL-10

    X-15 A2

    Special Hobby's 1/32nd scale North American X15 A2 Apart from a few scratch built additions in the cockpit, and a pilot figure from Shapeways (3D printed), it is an out of the box build. Various shades of black, dark greys, and metallic tones from various manufactures. Shapeways X-15 pilot. 3D printed. The version I ordered was the "basic quality" one & higher quality versions are available, for an increased cost. This one was rough, but workable. Head/face replaced with a Hornet Heads resin item. He needed some adjustments to get a better fit in the chair & cockpit. Thanks for looking, Angelo
  19. 23 points
    Hi everybody, I would like to share some pictures of my Focke Wulf Fw190 F-8 1:32 by Revell.
  20. 23 points
    Hi LSP forum fans, I would like to share a few pictures of my F7F 3P Tigercat 1/32 by HpH Models. There is a gallery of the Tigercat build and also pictures of some of my other models on https://www.mhscalemodels.com/
  21. 23 points
    July 20/20 I was home for a few days and a few more days of modeling. Step #19 has you put the front engine halves E7 & E12 together, along with exhaust backings E5 & E6 and Step #20 has part D2 inserted at the top of the front intake. Since I’m using the Barracuda resin replacement set (BR 32334) instead, these exact steps are eliminated. The first task is to carefully cut off the large casting block at the front of the one-piece nose, which like most resin blocks, is tricky to do cleanly when they are so large. It turns out that I have two of these noses, because I purchased one of the first sets when they came out a few years ago on the right, which was replaced later by Barracuda with the one on the left I’m using. Apparently the first ones were flawed somehow, but for the life of me I can’t tell the difference between the two, so maybe I didn’t get a flawed one after all? No matter, cutting the block off with a large razor saw did the trick, with detailed instructions supplied by Barracuda that can be found on-line here: Barracuda Instructions in PDF The kit parts have lots of panel line and rivet detail, but they are rough, so filling the top seam and sanding everything down smoothly won’t be easy if you use them. While the quality of the resin is excellent as usual from Barracuda, I was surprised to find that the front did not fit the spinner very well, leaving gaps on the sides and top, while the bottom fit was flush. Getting the parts to fit is easy with a little sanding, but you lose a lot of the detail that must be replaced. Later, I will be installing the CMK Resin Exhausts that are an upgrade to the kit and recommended in the kit instructions in Step 46 on Page 11. I also highly recommend them, because the detail is amazing as you will see much later in this build. In any case, I will need the resin exhaust backings to replace the kit parts E5 & E6 fairly soon. Like most resin replacements, the Barracuda nose piece utilizes the kit parts for the panel line and rivet detail when it was cast, but the detail is much weaker than the kit parts and, in some cases, you can barely see it at all, even with a dark wash. Soooo, like the rest of the fuselage, I re-scribed every panel line and re-punched every rivet, which took me about 12 hours in total! Yes, I can be a bit obsessed, but that’s nothing new. Here are the results that I’m glad is over with….. You may notice that some of the rivets are a little off alignment, but that’s because the kit part detail is a little off where they came from, which I used as a guide to replace the ones that were faint or missing. The fit to the fuselage wasn’t quite plug and play, but after some careful trimming, sanding and even immersing the part in hot water to widen it slightly, the fit is generally excellent. After gluing these parts together, I will sand everything smooth to eliminate any abrupt steps in the fit. Now I know that some of you might be thinking that all this rivet detail is overkill, but after paint and weathering, it will become much more subtle, but still very much there in close-up pics which I always like to do. I was initially a little bugged that the horizontal panel line at the top of the exhaust stack didn’t align with the fuselage panel line behind it, but after checking references, it’s not supposed to! Whew! Here’s a pic of the main differences between the kit parts and the Barracuda replacement. The front of the kit fuselage nose isn’t tapered very much and the spinner is too big, as is the mouth of the intake. The Barracuda part looks so much better- and all the internal detail is excellent as well. The “British Brute” as Peter Castle called it, is starting to look the part! Thanks for your continued interest in this very slow project. As mentioned before I only model every few weeks or so and like most of us, I feel so lucky to have this stay-at-home hobby to help me weather this brutal pandemic that has been so hard on so many. I am truly one of the lucky ones. Cheers, Chuck
  22. 23 points
    Hi Tom... I found these on EBay. Do a search on Galaxy Rivet Tools and you'll find a number of vendors. The vendors are all from China so shipping may take a bit of time. Mine took a little over two months between purchase and delivery. After the black base coat, I use the Mr Hobby Kawanishi Cockpit Green C-384 as my primary cockpit color. The cockpit floor and seat have been pre-treated with a metallic color and MIG Scratches Effect fluid so those areas are chipped. And then it is time to start painting the details by hand. This part of the build gets very un-structured. It takes a lot of motivation for me to paint the cockpit details and I'll usually do it in non-sequential order... just attacking whatever piece or part that grabs my attention. Because of this, I usually don't have lots of in-progress shots until towards the end. Slowly but surely, the cockpit gets painted and after that the big parts are given a clear coat and a dark wash is applied. Since there are a lot of delicate parts, I have to be very careful during the wash process. After the wash, a flat coat is put on and final weathering effects are applied like dry-brushing edges and some oil staining. The cockpit is then partially assembled to see how the various painted components look together. This dry-fitting exercise has a few missing components, most notably the seat harnesses, which should be arriving this week. The starboard side... The port side... We can't forget the reality of what happens when both cockpit sidewalls are put into place.
  23. 23 points
    Here I present my Roden Fokker Dr.1 (before Meng gets theirs out). This is Josef Jacobs' ride, complete with a Clerget 9B engine (captured from Copper State Models), extra braces on the landing gear, God of the North Wind graphic taken from an enhanced photo of Jacobs' plane, and the cowling is made from aluminum I spun on my lathe. Jacobs' plane was a glossy black, as well. There is a build log on ww1 aircraftmodels.com. Thanks for looking and comments are welcome.
  24. 22 points
    Hey guys, I would like to share a few pictures of my build of Messerschmitt BF 109E-7 TROP 1:32 by HGW Models. If you would like to see pictures of the entire build, please visit my web https://www.mhscalemodels.com
  25. 22 points
    MODEL KIT No 32021 www.icm.com.ua - Renders! Kit in process! Juraj
  26. 22 points
    chrish

    F 86 Sabre....finished

    I have added the last few odds and ends to the Sabre...mixed feelings about this one, I may be off Kinetic kits for a while. Thanks for looking and encouraging to the finish!
  27. 21 points
    easixpedro

    EA-6B Prowler

    Alrighty folks! Some of you might remember my stalled scratch built 1/24th EA-6B. Check it out here: Lost the oomph and was in over my head, but I knew I could do better. I've learned loads since I started it, and some of it just wasn't up to snuff. I tossed it in the trash about a month ago and am ready to try again. This time it'll be with a Trumpeter 1/32 A-6E, which I'll convert (similar to the way Grumman built it back in the day: i.e. take a pretty sweet airframe, mess up the CG and a bunch of other stuff and make a beast!) This box just showed up tonight: I've got plans printed out already and have already been studying Starfighter's build to see how he tackled his... I'll be building it in-flight. Am investigating a couple of options--either standard in-flight and on a stand, or go full hog and figure out how to mount it on the arresting hook similar to other builds I've done. I think I can pull it off...more details as I figure that out. Here's my options--all have personal meanings as they were my squadrons. VAQ-135 "The Black Ravens" (happened to design that tail back in the day), if I don't do this jet, I'll do 503, which had my name on it. Here's me and a Gator, (a Great American!) in 503 back in 1999, courtesy of Tony Holmes. If I can't make the arrested landing work, I'll do either of these VAQ-133 "Wizards" jets. I was toying with our Desert Bird, as I was the Maintenance Officer back then. It was a great a/c, but for such a unique project, I don't know if I want that audacious of a paint scheme. I'm leaning towards 532--she was a War Horse during 2 trips to Afghanistan. Some airplanes always have gremlins, but not her. I think the only time she wasn't flying was when she was having inspections done. Of course as a Maintenance guy, that gives me fond memories. As a result, I have a ton of flight time in her. So that's where I'm at... Will have to borrow a friends welder to see if I can pull off the hook attachment. Once that's out of the way, I can start building in earnest. If not, no worries, it'll still be a great addition to my collection! This will be my first build log that I've posted to in over 3 years, so hopefully I remember to update it in a timely manner! More soonest, Peter
  28. 21 points
    Doctorgaz

    CJ-6 Nanchang, 1/32, Trumpeter

    Hello, This is my first finished job on this resource. The model was built for a long time, with long interruptions and many improvements that he did on his own, without resorting to an aftermarket. He deepened the lining and added riveting on the wings. Modified the interior of the cabin. Modified screw and screw sleeve. Chassis racks are made 80% anew. I eased the creepy and ugly mounds to simulate the canvas on the steering surfaces. He painted with Mr.Color paints, two satin finish varnishes (made himself from Future + Tamiya Flat Base) and a dull matte from Testors. Regards, upload png
  29. 21 points
    Grizly

    1/32 Revell Tornado GR.1

    It's the Revell 1/32 kit with Paragon flaps, Black Box cockpit, TAC Scale avionics and oxygen bays and ladder, kit and XTradecals decals and Xtracolor enamels. The kit decals were prone to silvering and caused much frustration. Fortunately, scoring the decals with a sharp blade and applying Testors brush cleaner eliminated most of the silvering but not all.
  30. 21 points
  31. 21 points
  32. 21 points
  33. 20 points
    brahman104

    HK B-17...C!!!!!!!! 4/8 first pour

    Thanks Peter! Yep, I'm pretty happy with how they've turned out. Always learning though! Thanks mate. It's all relative though.... my skills have grown exponentially through this project alone, but it might be another 44 years before I finish it! Wow! another month flashes by with the blink of an eye. Precious little time spare for the bench, but...... Since I've moved to NZ and completed conversion onto their platform of choice I've been kept very busy. I thought I'd share a few pics from last week of the new bus. In my mind, still not as awesome as a Chinook (I am possibly biased), but not altogether bad either . Especially not when I get to fly around places like this! Yes, all three are of me, freezing my a*$e off in -10 degrees at 7,000 feet. I know for some of you that's nothing, but when you've lived pretty much all of your life in the tropics........ Good fun though! Back to the build. I've been chipping away for what seems like forever to blend the kit and my printed nacelles together in preparation for casting. I don't know how Iain is doing it with his Andover build, but I've certainly had enough of sanding for a while! So this is where they're at now: They still look a bit rough, but they are in fact quite smooth. It was quite challenging to recreate the seam that runs around the nacelle. As always, it's done 90% by eye so hopefully will look the part once it's all together on the wing. The shape of them alone makes for a challenging proposition when casting. No I'm certainly no expert on the matter, but hopefully by each nacelle on these brass pins, everything should stay in the same place. Because I could, I drew up and laser cut some MDF for the mould boxes. I figured that would support the weight of the pin a bit better than simple balsa wood. So that's pretty much where it's at right now. I'm waiting for the first pour of the silicone to go off so I can pour the second half. I really hope this works, as I don't fancy going through this process again! Cheers, Craig
  34. 20 points
  35. 20 points
    afternoon my friends Something arrived in the post this week which has meant I could crack on with my favourite part of any build.. ..this stack are the custom decals for the 190 that I had in the corner of a layout sheet for an airscale restock. The good thing is they are super high quality decals, the bad thing is I have 75 copies as that was the sheet order size for one of the layouts… I only need one of any decal on the sheet as I have so many copies and it keeps the sheet size down, plus there are a few bits on there for friends ..anyways, I don’t have any WIP shots, but I have been busy – this is the V15 cockpit I am basing the V18 on.. ..and my version.. ..upper panel.. panel in front of the control stick.. lower panel.. ..and sort of how they go together.. ..and that’s that – favourite bit done, it’s all downhill from here Thanks Sky - appreciate that. You are so right, if you break this all down, it is simple tasks. I still say that if you approach each and every component as a model in itself then the quality of the output goes up TTFN Peter
  36. 20 points
    Hawkwrench

    1/35 KH MH-60L "Super 63"

    Finishing up the fuel tank straps and ratchets. I hate working with small PE using my sausage fingers. This made for a fun night. Tim
  37. 20 points
    ericg

    Aerotech Gloster IV FINISHED

    I finished this one a few days ago. First time using the steel rigging used in the kit. I used some of the tyre placard decals from a Wingnut Wings kit. Better pics soon.
  38. 19 points
    1/32 Hasegawa Yahu instrument panel Brengun & Eduard PE Parts for cockpit. Master Gun Barrels Montex Painting mask All colours MRP
  39. 19 points
    LSP_Kevin

    Scale Model Paint Masks

    Howdy folks, I'm pleased to announce that I've just launched a brand new website called Scale Model Paint Masks. The purpose of this website is to provide a repository where members can share their paint mask files with fellow modellers, which can then be downloaded and used with consumer cutters/plotters like those from Silhouette (for example). There are also forums, much like here at LSP, though obviously the focus is different. I know there's a Facebook group that does something similar, but many of you don't use Facebook, and I'd argue that what I've set up works better anyway. You need to be a member to upload and download, so you're all welcome to check it out, sign up, and contribute if you can! The site is in its infancy, and well grown and improve as time goes by. https://www.scalemodelpaintmasks.com/ Hope to see you there! Kev
  40. 19 points
    red baron

    T 28 fennec

    my last built , enjoy :
  41. 19 points
    panzerrob

    F16 Sufa

    Hi all, I want to show you my recently finished F16 Sufa. A very nice kit to build, unfortunately I F23ked up the very last decal, being one of the big decals on the vertical stabilizer. But a replacement decal question on this forum all worked out. A big thanks to Peter Gregor, Kagemusha, Oeguy and Helmsman who all offered help! It is not one of my best builds (or photo's) but I am more than happy with the result. Unfortunately, a matte spot appeared on the canopy, I have no clue how it ended up there. Luckily it isn't visible from the position were it is parked! I hope you like it. With regards, Rob
  42. 19 points
    FreightDog

    1/32 Hasegawa FW190A-5

    I did this as a quickie while I await my 2nd T-28 kit to arrive on the slow boat from China for by build thread on same, and the motor & light kit for the B17, I threw it together so fast I forgot to do a build thread sorry! As usual from me, it's motorised & illuminated because... well, because it can be, and I enjoy the photographic opportunities - need to obtain some sky or airfield backdrop for further goes :-). Bit of an issue with the engine sound on this, the way I coiled the cabling may be the reason the lovely startup and run sound is accompanied by whining feedback, something I'm in contact with MSM about as I'm a bit of an early adopter for their stuff. Extras: Master details pilot figure & metal MGs, Eduard cockpit dashboard & harness (waste of time, can't see a single thing with young Klaus sat there) Montex masks, and Magic Scale Modelling light & sound kit. Painted with a mix of Tamiya & AK, weathered with flory wash & AK grime. Thanks for looking.
  43. 19 points
    Hi all, Long time viewer, first time poster. I have been in awe of the quality of builds on here for a long time, and as a modeller rediscovering a childhood hobby, these forums are extremely useful for tips and inspiration. After a few builds using a mix of Tamiya rattle cans and acrylic hand brushing, I decided to splash out and buy an airbrush. I picked up the cheapest one I could find -around £40 including a mini-compressor (the irony being I was spending far more on the rattle cans than it will cost me to airbrush!). I have seen it said many times, that airbrushing doesn't have much you need to learn about , but it does have a very steep learning curve. This I can confirm is true! I managed to break the needle after two days ! For this build, I also wanted to try paint chipping and panel washing. It turned about to be a build of a lot of firsts. The kit itself, the Hasegawa 1/32 P-40 is a great kit overall - good fit in general, some nice cockpit / undercarriage detail, and great value for money. Decals weren't the greatest, and required a LOT of Mr. Strong to get them to settle down. The crosshair was also very disappointing - this is such an iconic part of the P-40, yet was solid (e.g no space between the crosshairs!). I left this off as it was too delicate for me drill out the middle parts. A spoiler - there are lots of mistakes with this model. I wasn't interested in historical accuracy, and the weathering is very much overdone - as it was my first time, I went to town! I also overdid the paint chipping. The underside blue is far too 'blue' - it was my first go with the airbrush (I still had the rattle can mentality to cover as much plastic as quickly as possible!). It was only much later in the model I really got to grips with the idea of lots of very thin coats. Anyway - enough talking - here are the pics: talking, here she is:
  44. 19 points
    I've reached the point when I consider this model alomst , sort of , maybe finished sort of .. Ok hedging but there are always things I'll want to go to it , but for the time being , I'm willing to call it done it done Basic overview with a few of my RAF bits and pieces to add a little scale , AS you can see 4 Sea eagles complete with my pylons and launch rails have been added , complete with RBF's m along with the FOD guards Confession time - for those of you that have the kit , you'll notice a lack of panel lines round the nose , partly I messed them up re-engraving them , and partly because I lost a few of them whwn I broke the nose off the fuselage back in Feb, Yup from the cockpit forward it snapped off after falling from its temp position in my work room as I worked on the pylons. It turns out the resin is strong , but brittle. LOTS AND lots of swearing out with the epoxy , and glued back on , at the cost of the loss of some detail.. BE CAREFUL!!! Phew feels good to cofess Wings - and yes that staining from the BCS is fairly accurate - The canopy needs work , and it'll get it , the seats are not from the kit , Modded Crusader ones, with a bit of tweaking they look the part aA better view of the Sea Eagles, in their EDSG paint to be honest the thought of hanging 3 of these beauties to a finished model was what drove me on , now All I want is a decent FAA Gen 1 Sea Harrier to hang two more on Towbar courtesy of Flightpath Well there we go , from Nov last year to to-day , 8 months? - no side projects , no abandonment , never stopped pushing to finish it .. must be some kind of record for me .. as fro the next project .. something for my wife.. "Holidays are coming ,, holidays are coming" - little hint!
  45. 19 points
    Hi everyone I've been a bit quite on the forums lately and that's because I've been spending more time building and less time writing. I had to take a break from the relentless detailing of the Star Destroyer (which I will go back to because I want to see it done), and so for the past month or so, I have been away quietly building my 48th scale 199 Eagle. I've long loved the design of this ship and have dreamed of having a kit of this as a boy when I saw it in an old Airfix catalogue but just never bought one until a couple of years back when I saw one of these going relatively cheaply instead I clearly grabbed one. Naturally, me being me, I also was never going to paint it like the show. Then I saw The Admiral's build (http://resinilluminati.com/showthread.php?t=17378 ) and it's inspiration from him that got me going on mine. So I naturally borrowed/stole his cockpit idea and subsequently made my own poorer copy. However, it reinforced my previous desire for a non standard white Eagle, so I came up with the most obvious option: paint it in black! Everything looks good in black right?! Painted in Tamiya NATO Black, flat black and German grey and something else to. The engine stuff is all painted in bare metal just because I thought it would look cool. That general concept is prevalent throughout this whole build really I'm going to blow my own horn here and state that I am super happy with how this came out. Yes - after taking the photos I realised that there are some paint issues to fix that have alluded me prior to now but they are easily fixed and TBH, I'm not going to take another series of shots to show them fixed. It's been hard enough to get enough light to take even these pictures. Love Melbourne weather! At any rate, you'll get the idea from the following pics and this is my rudimentary cockpit which I shamelessly stole from Bill. Thanks again mate!! I can't paint faces to save myself, so I sprayed shaped pieces of masking tape silver followed by clear red and a mist of clear orange. It looks much better to me The screens behind them are decals which I cut up and stuck onto the back wall with a hole behind it where fiber optic stubs had been inserted into the side panels - all lit by a single SMD each side. The red cockpit glow is a standard but sanded 5mm LED. It looks good against the black. Well, that was a fun build in so far as that I didn't have to make details for anything. Like I said, I'm super happy with this. I think it looks seriously cool, but that's just me Anyways, thanks for stopping by and having a look. Si
  46. 19 points
    tomprobert

    1/48th Boeing B-52H Stratofortress

    Evening all The B-52 has external hardpoints between the inboard engines and the fuselage - modern day H-models can carry a wide range of weapons on these pylons from the basic 'dumb' free-fall bombs to the most modern and sophisticated cruise missiles. As the Sanger kit comes, there are no external pylons provided but their locations are marked on the wing. However, these bare no resemblance whatsoever to the large pylon mounts seen on the real aircraft: IMG_0308 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr B-52H Underside by Thomas Probert, on Flickr As my model will be finished without the pylons, I needed to make a more accurate representation of the mounts, so I grabbed some plastic card from the stash and started to fashion them: IMG_0312 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr IMG_0313 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr Lots of careful trimming and sanding ensured a nice, snug fit to the wing: IMG_0319 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr I presume on the real thing the pylons are mounted to this plates - and I use the word plates as that just what they look like and have very little in the way of surface details. Both are now done and look like a significant improvement over the original kit offerings and are certainly more in keeping with the real aircraft: IMG_0317 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr IMG_0318 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr That's another job done! Take care all, Tom
  47. 18 points
    Hey folks Bit more Fw190 action.. I have been hopping about trying to phase things so I don’t for example do the interior then bash it about while trying to do some heavy engineering on the wings, but in some ways some of it doesn’t matter as any part you pick, ultimately has to be done sometime.. I thought I would get the tailplanes out of the way, so scaled the Bentley plans and made a 2mm card blank – let in and added a rod spar that is located where there is a tube now in the fuselage.. ..by doing it as one part it ensures alignment etc.. ..some templates were added to define the cross section and aerofoil and this was bulked out with P38 filler and primed / worked until I had the basic shapes.. ..added some litho details that can be seen if the elevators are posed anywhere but neutral.. ..drew out the rivet pattern from photo’s and made up 4 skin panels.. ..I noticed the leading edge is a real ‘bull-nose’ and pretty ungainly – it also sits on top of the skin panels as can be seen here.. ..I had made the skins slightly too wide at the leading edge so I can try and replicate this – started by wrapping in annealed litho.. ..then once fixed down it was trimmed to the slight overlap.. ..the tips were in three parts – one bent around the tip laterally in litho that has not been annealed to get a good crisp and strong trailing edge, and then upper & lower skin panels that were softer after annealing.. ..and the finished parts – also added some big fixing rivets on the tips I saw on refs.. ..then onto the wings – they needed the shapes around the ailerons correcting so correctly shaped litho strip sheet parts were cut and faired into the wing – along with removing all the moulded detail from the HB kit.. ..I also used one of the holes in each wing to fill them with expanding foam that goes rock hard inside and gives a solid core.. ..after priming and with a rivet template printed out derived from a photo.. ..then the first panel gets prepared to be laid down with tape as a hinge holding it in position and also masking where I don’t want contact adhesive.. ..the panels sit atop each other like the Spitfire, so these are the first two laid down.. ..now I need some help from the community – I have no rivet plans and have been deriving from photo’s – I have lots of photo’s of the bottom of the wings, but none of the top (without paint so the rivets can be seen) – does anyone know where I might get a good rivet drawing or resto photo’s of the top of the wing? Thanks all in advance & TTFN Peter
  48. 18 points
    So after a few months of having absolutely no interest in building I have felt the urge to start again and after looking through the stash I decided upon this one, low part count and back to basic modelling skills with just a little AM added, I also got an awful lot of mojo back from following chuck540z3's Tempest build which is just amazing so here we go again with the obligitory box shots. First thing first I spent an afternoon at the sink with lots of hot water to get the fuselage and wings in to shape as the resin was quite heavily warped, one all was in line I was happy to continue with the build Happy with the basic fit I decided to order some AM for the build to improve things here and there. Barracuda Studios Wheels Barracuda Studios Seat Squadron Vac Canopy HGW Seatbelts CMK Tempest Exhaust set CMK Gunsight Aviology Sharkmouth Decal set Special Hobby Rocket set Excited to crack on with this build and you never know Special Hobby will now duly release their Typoon kits in 32nd scale! Regards. Andy
  49. 18 points
    The Cheetah E masters are finally completed, and now they can be prepared for making the molds Cheers
  50. 18 points
    Harold

    HB B24 discussion: AM and fixes.

    AMS Resin...working on a set of corrected props...
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