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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/21/2019 in all areas

  1. 34 points

    MiG-15 BIS 1/32HPH

    Hello everbody I'm new here. My friend Miloslav persuaded me to register ... MiG-15 BIS 1/32 HPH First Fighter Regiment, Planá Air Force Base, Lt. Kotrsal, First Squadron, 1954 Photos: Miloslav (thank you) More photos here: https://www.leteckemuzeumliborezy.cz/mig-15/
  2. 30 points

    1/32 Tamiya F-16CJ

    Finished photos of my TAMIYA,Inc. 1/32 F-16CJ. Built with AMS Resin ECM pod and L/h HARM pod, Eduard Model Accessories SNIPER pod, MASTER Static Dischargers, AIRES HOBBY MODELS wheels, GT Resin R/h targeting pod pylon and VideoaviationGBU-38s. Decals were a mixture of kit and Astra Decals. Painted with MRP & Mr Hobby. Seat belts are scratch built, Bomb rack is robbed from the Academy Hornet. I was planning on using the Quickboost seat and Aires wheel wells but they both were far too small! Massive thank you for Joe at Yellow Cake Models for sending my a new lower fuselage after I butchered mine and Fanch at Fancherello models & photos for cutting me the stencils for the tail.
  3. 26 points

    CF-18 or 118 if you like

    Just finished, Demo plane CF 118
  4. 26 points
    More pics...
  5. 25 points

    Galland Bf109 F-2

    Hi guys, it has been a while since I posted. Here a some photos of my first build of the year, Hasegawa's Galland Special kit. I used an Aires cockpit and HGW seatbelts but the rest is oob. I did not heavily weather the aircraft as I thought the since Galland was both the Geschwader Kommodore of JG26 and one of the Jagdwaffe's leading aces at the time his aircraft would be kept fairly immaculate. The build turned out fairly well, though as always there is room for improvement in some areas. The Galland figure also came out decent, so overall I am satisfied enough with this build to post some photos of it here. I hope everyone enjoys the pictures and please feel free to make any comments or criticisms as I am always looking for feedback to improve my skills. Sincerely, Ernest IMG_1061 by Ernest Roth, on Flickr IMG_1065 by Ernest Roth, on Flickr IMG_1067 by Ernest Roth, on Flickr IMG_1036 by Ernest Roth, on Flickr IMG_1034 by Ernest Roth, on Flickr IMG_1049 by Ernest Roth, on Flickr IMG_1055 by Ernest Roth, on Flickr IMG_1059 by Ernest Roth, on Flickr
  6. 25 points
    well hello folks can't believe a month has passed since I last posted an update... I have not been idle though - I have done a lot of 3D modelling for the tailwheel, main wheels (for which I am getting help!) and the spinner (of which more later..), in between I have also released an airscale instrument panel set for the Hobbyboss 1/32 B24 Liberator and also worked with Airfix to master this airscale cockpit set for the new and mind blowing Airfix 1/24 F6F Hellcat - the decals for all the instruments & placards are in production, but the PE is done.. ..as for the P51, when I had the Hellcat PE test shot done, I also added a load of extra P51 stuff to the fret so I make the most of one-shot production, Part of that was the stainless steel side panels that surround the exhaust ports, and I also made a fold up box structure that is the structure that surrrounds and supports the exhausts themselves.. ..Also seen here are the 3D printed exhausts from Model Monkey - huge shout out for these as they are exceptional quality and amazingly are hollow so are ultra realistic.. ..these were folded and the details added before the boxes were added to the outer panels - the exhausts are not yet fitted so they can be painted & added at the end.. ..and so onto the spinner - this is one of those things that has sat in the back of my mind as a niggle since I started this build - it is unfortunately unpainted on the real aircraft so had to be made in metal - a bit like skinning a tennis ball in sheet aluminium - very tricky.. ..I actually bought the HpH 1/18 Merlin engine model hoping to cheat and get a good basis for the prop & spinner from that, but it is very crude - the spinner is a solid with four peg holes in it to take the blades - there is no reference to the cutouts on the real thing, so that was a 70 euro write off (though I think I can use the blades so may not be dead money...) I restarted my Rhino 3D programme trial and got to work modelling the Spinner... ..when I went to get it printed at Shapeways, I noticed you could choose polished Aluminium so I thought well that would be brilliant as it would save lots of messing around with skinning as I could just polish the part - so at great expense (150 euros) I ordered it with the hub done in plastic.. ..two disappointments... one - it's not polished at all, it is more like a carbide burr in texture, and two, somehow I got the hole cutouts wrong as two were in the right pitch for the blades and two were in the opposite pitch.. ..that said - it is aluminium, and after filing & polishing is just like a cast part - don't know how they do it, but it's bloody clever.. ..as the cutouts were wrong, I knew I had to skin it, so I made a tape mask and started with the lower section... ..with this skin added, I taped it to the top part to mark another tape template with where the cut-out holes were on the next bit of skinning (there are 3 - bottom, lower of the top cone, and the tip) ..this skin needed rows of 3 rivets adding so I made up a jig I could do this accurately with.. ..I was hoping after adding this I could get away with the spinner tip being the base aluminium part, but there is a lip that can just be seen.. ..in doing the tip, I nearly gave up as turning one sheet into a fully compound curve sheath without a visible seam proved very difficult - I don't have any in progress pics, but at this point the bulk of the shaping has been done and the skin runs up over the lower part - I was hoping I could just sand & file this away for a nice close fit (I should have started with the tip & made the lower panel fit it, not the other way around..) ..once it was all sanded away, I was really happy with the result.. ..the prop hub was painted and added to the base.. ..and it is a perfect fit.. ..it feels great having got that done - everything else is easy by comparison I also have the right sheet aluminium that Brian (Out2gtcha) kindly shipped from the US on my behalf so can now start skinning the airframe.. ..a milestone I think, and hopefully the start of more regular updates.. TTFN Peter
  7. 24 points

    Tamiya 1/32 F-4E HAF SRA

    Hi guys Just finished my Tamiya 1/32 F-4E as an HAF SRA Hope you like it. I will try and take better photos during the weekend. 20190313_203120 by periklis_sale, on Flickr 20190313_203122 by periklis_sale, on Flickr 20190313_203137 by periklis_sale, on Flickr 20190313_203125 by periklis_sale, on Flickr 20190313_203139 by periklis_sale, on Flickr
  8. 24 points
    IMO, airbrushing a squiggle pattern randomly over a kit still looks too uniform, regardless of how ‘random’ you try to make it. … And it takes too bloody long on a large kit such as a 1/32 Ju-88! Enter the Scotch Brite masking technique which came about after I had been looking at pro airbrushing stencils online and thinking there must be a cheaper way. Firstly some prep is required before using your Scotch Brite. Because these types of pads are dense, you must prepare them by tearing, pulling and reducing the thickness by tearing them in half carefully along their horizontal axis. Here is an example of the Scotch Brite in action on Revell’s 1/32 Ju-88. Airbrushing Tamiya XF-54 Neutral Grey through a Scotch Brite; I completed the entire underside in approximately 40 minutes. The result; Close up; I applied further mistings of neutral grey to reduce the contrast; Where possible, I mix my own colours with Tamiya Acrylics mixed with 50% Tamiya Lacquer Thinner. For RLM 65 I mixed up equal parts of XF-23 and XF-2 thinned as per above. In the airbrush cup I added this mix and then added the same amount of thinner to make it highly diluted. This allows the topcoat to be built up gradually. This makes it hard to overdo it and destroy the effect if you get heavy handed with the trigger. The result so far;
  9. 24 points

    Special Hobby V-1

    This is Special Hobby's 1/32 scale V-1. A lovely little kit, the usual lo-run moulding features, a bit of etch and a good decal sheet. All paint by Mission Models with a final wash of Flory Black Weathering fluid. Very fast and easy to build and paint. The rear end of the fuselage and engine was assembled and painted in one factory, the explosive section in another and the nose guidance system at a third, all painted where manufactured. Like most munitions, they would only come together as a complete unit prior to launch, being assembled and adjusted in the local bomb dump. Hence the mottle cammo on the back end, the linear colour demarcation on the explosive section and a freehand wavy colour separation on the nose. Some areas were treated to a very thin wash of Mission Models Tyre Black to change the RLM83 and 76 on some sections to emphasise the disparate part manufacturing.
  10. 24 points

    fw 190 A5 hasegawa 1/32

    Hello to all ... it's been a long time since I was published on this forum without I had the courage to post ... on the one hand, the language poses a problem for me and then there are so many prestigious modellers that I dared not show you what I am capable of it is under the insistence of a friend that I decided to post this kit that I really liked I leave you judge I pass you the stage of the interior because my photos are really not beautiful all the wheathering is done with a sepia oil painting and finally here is the completed model, with its figurine painted with oils and acrylics the base is realized with polyfoarm covered with glue with tiles painted with the airbrush here .... I hope you like it to your keyboards to tell me what you think see you soon yves
  11. 23 points
    Hi all, 10. Hog finished 1/32 Tamiya HGW wet transfers & seat belts Barracuda wheels Eagle cals only Number 13 Painting mask home made All colours Mr.Paint/MRP
  12. 21 points
    just got permission from Aifix to post pictures of the new airscle F6F cockpit se test shot ..more here Peter
  13. 21 points

    Zoukei Mura Kawasaki Ki-45 Kai Tei (Late)

    thanks for looking jan
  14. 20 points

    RAAF F-35 exhaust bung.

    I have a few on the go at the moment and am using this model as a break from my primary model that I am working on, the Boomerang. With the Australian International air show about to start, it will provide me with many photos of our new F-35’s in action. So I will put those into good use here. I started this model when it first came out and quickly put it aside when I realised that there was a bit of work to be done on the exhaust, as it was way too small fitted to the fuselage. After a bit of a think, Here is how I fixed it. Here is the exhaust how Italeri intended, like throwing a sausage roll down a hallway. I decided to fix this two ways. Firstly, I cut a line in between every second exhaust petal, about halfway down the front (where it meets the fuselage) of the part. I then forced lengths of plastic card into the lines, spreading the front of the exhaust apart. This increased the diameter of the exhaust by approx 2 mm but kept the exit of the exhaust the same. There is still a bit of sanding and tidying up to do here but you can see the white plastic card to give you an idea of how I have executed this. Next, I removed a wedge shaped piece from the rear of the fuselage where the exhaust fits into. I removed the centre point and half of each point next to it. Terminating the wedge close to the front of that part. I glued and clamped the part together, shrinking it. I made up a new point with some plastic card. The lost raised detail was masked and built up again using spray primer. fixed! Compared to the first pic, this area is way better.
  15. 20 points

    Tamiya Phantom F4j(UK)

    1st one for 2019. Tamiya Phantom F4(j), decked out as a 74 squadron aircraft using Yellowhammer decals to depict a F4J(UK). Great kit that builds into an imposing model. All errors were user generated!!
  16. 19 points
    9th Hog finished. HGW wet transfers & seat belts Barracuda wheels Maketar mask All colours Mr.Paint/MRP
  17. 19 points
    Hello everybody! Today I want to show you a RF-4E Phantom, which I made from the 32er Revell kit. 35 + 49, AG 51 "Immelmann" Seats: Quickboost (modified) Intake covers: AMS Resin Travelpods: wing tanks of a F-5E Decals: Airdoc, Revell and homemade The kit has some flaws, but see and decide for yourself ..... Colours : Gunze This scheme is called "Norm 83 A"
  18. 19 points
    I'm back at bench after one week and slowly finishing Toryu have used several AMMO washes to get best effect out of it. I have combined darker panel lines with light rivets added pigments - light dust and airfield dust stuff used for weathering canopy parts attached wheels weathered and attached and few more overall pics and dry fit of engine covers thanks for looking jan
  19. 18 points

    A-7 Corsair II Trumpeter 1:32

    The model which I received to finish. The model that was started and lay in the box for several years. The model is A-7E Trumpeter which was to be made in painting from version D - it was the decision of the person for whom I finished this model. So we have an E version that pretends version D. In my opinion, the Trumpeter model itself is not very demanding and it will be easy to fold. However, you need to pay attention to the dividing lines that are too shallow and need improvement.
  20. 18 points

    1/32 Trumpeter Me262A-1a "Yellow 3"

    This is my recently completed build of the Trumpeter 1/32 Me262 A-1a kit. The subject is Yellow 3 of KG(J)54. I added a few things including the Aires Me 262 Resin Cockpit and Wheel Bay set, the Barracuda 262 Resin Main Wheels and Nose Wheel, HGW Seat Belts and Montex Masks. The kit was backdated to an early A-1a including removal of the small bulges on the nose cannon covers and a different type of tail light. The entire build can be found at... https://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?/topic/72974-132-trumpeter-me-262a-1a-yellow-3/
  21. 18 points

    Airfix 1/24 F6F Hellcat Cockpit

    Hi folks been busy working on an Airfix test kit to bring you a cockpit upgrade for when the new F6F is released.. ..will be a nickel silver photo-etch set with bespoke colour instrument & placard decals should get a PE test shot next week so hopefully have something to show then TTFN Peter
  22. 18 points
    red baron

    F4F3 WILDCAT trumpeter

    My last built , enjoy, url=https://www.casimages.com/i/190302015634538135.jpg.html][/url url=https://www.casimages.com/i/190302015634764639.jpg.html][/url url=https://www.casimages.com/i/19030201563524465.jpg.html][/url url=https://www.casimages.com/i/190302015635298443.jpg.html][/url] url=https://www.casimages.com/i/190302015635775596.jpg.html][/url url=https://www.casimages.com/i/190302015636533857.jpg.html][/url Voilà voilà
  23. 18 points
    Then I came back and put few thin light coats of RLM 78 over the top of things to blend it all together. From the pics, you'd have thought I wasted my time with all that random pattern spraying prior to this, but surprisingly, the varying patters are a lot more noticeable IRL. The pics make it look extra subtle, but in the flesh its more clear. I still like the way the 78 ended up: Its now in my heated workshop room hardening off, so knowing MRPs drying times, I should be ready to shoot some RLM 79 later tonight or tomorrow! Cheers,
  24. 18 points

    AV-8B Harrier II Trumpeter 1:32

    AV-8B Harrier II Model quite easy to build, made as always straight from the box.
  25. 18 points
    Finally I have been able to get back at the bench. What feels like years has actually only been about a month. Taking a 'sabbath' I didn't touch anything model related. Instead of starting something 'light' to get back, I have been able to pick up where I left, concentrating on the passenger seats. After some initial tests, these are the basic parts for the wicker chair, stretched sprue and a seat base. The basic shape of the chair. Wicker weaving. Unfortunately I forgot to take photos of some of the techniques used. For the lower parts of the weaving I used some heavy fishing line weaved around sprue. The leather cushions and seat are made from milliput. Anyhow, I managed to get a master chair done and a silicone mold for replicating the seat. Cast resin copy's. At this point the 'writers block' set in and I had to take a brake... Painting the seats using a mix of acrylics, oils and some washes... 10 little chairs are emerging... Testing the fit of the chairs in the cabins... Cheers: Kent
  26. 17 points

    MiG-29A in Luftwaffe Service

    The exhausts are a hybrid of the HAD etched parts and the kit's outer shells. The chaff/flare dispensers got some attention, particularly the fairings. Cockpits are the focal point of many models, and this one is no exception! The MiG-29 is an iconic fighter, with many unique design features. I have really enjoyed building this!
  27. 17 points

    RAAF F-35 exhaust bung.

    I plan to paint this model in the newer all over grey scheme with Three Squadron markings. It will make for a reasonably boring jet as I don’t plan on having anything hanging off it yet in the way of ordnance. My good mate Peter sent me some excellent clear photos that he took of an F-35 parked at the Australian International Airshow held recently. This jet had really cool exhaust and intake bungs installed with colourful 3 SQN logos painted on them and they will add a great splash of colour to the jet. Now, I dont usually like putting these things on my models as any good jet modeller will go the hard yards to sort out intakes and exhausts which are usually amongst the hardest part of a jet model. I reckon it is a way of chickening out of that part of the build but in this case I will make an exception. Here are the pics (with permission from Peter, thanks mate!) I am am not aware of the existence of the bungs in this scale so have set about creating my own. Due to my experience gained with the nose art on my Boomerang build, I will be creating spray masks for the logos painted on them. I cut out a circle of thick plastic card that fit into the exhaust pipe. A suitable quantity of Tamiya epoxy putty was mixed to form the area which I would be sculpting The putty was stuck to the plastic circle and shaped to fit it, then smoothed over with Mr thinner painted on with a brush. Not sure why the scissors are making an appearance here. I used various tools to sculpt the ripples in the surface of the bung and scribed a line around its edge as per the pics. Primed, smoothed, primed again...... Should look great painted. I will add the pull handles after this process.
  28. 17 points
    David Mooney

    Fw190 A5

    Second one completed of 2019 is the Focke-Wulf Fw190 A5 from Hasegawa, this again (same as the Bf-109 G10) is a great kit, with no issues at all. Painted with Mr Colour paints and thinners (amazing products in my opinion). My choice of aircraft was quite easy as the Stab/Jagd-Erganzungsgruppe aircraft of Ost, Maj Herman Graf was so colourful and different, this was based in France 1943. If anyone can enlighten me on the markings, id be very grateful of the knowledge.
  29. 17 points
    That`s enough for an "easy kit". Greetings, Dieter
  30. 17 points

    1:18 Hobbyboss AV-8B Harrier

    A little assembly.
  31. 16 points
    Hi All This is the Eduard Hasegawa 1:32 P47D Thunderbolt “Dottie Mae” A really nice, easy kit to build. The only real issues were with the instructions which left out a couple of steps and were not particularly clear at some stages. This was my first try with the Alclad shiny stuff – which was a steep learning curve, helped greatly by LSP members. Here’s a link to the full build story: And here’s some pics: Cheers Paul
  32. 16 points
    Thanks guys. Tiz hard on the airbrush hand doing ultra tight, small patterns so have to break things up into many sessions. Bit of progress: Cheers
  33. 16 points
    David Mooney

    Bf-109 G-10 'Rita'

    This is a Hasegawa 1/32 Bf-109 G-10 and it proved a very easy build, no major fit issues at all (a nice change). I have painted it using MrColour paints to represent an aircraft from 2./JG300 Feldwebel Ederhard Gzik based in Germany, October 1944. I added some photo etch seat belt from Eduard to set the cockpit off, I hope you like 'Rita', I am quite happy with the results.
  34. 16 points
    Hi, Thank you all for your attention and interest on this work. the first update concerns the coating with aluminum tape of the lower part of the fuselage. Application of Eduard details, finishing and test to fit. MWP (Metal Work Panels) procedure start: aluminum tape self adhesive (w/protection film): Eduard pe set: removing extractors: painting parts: washing parts ( mix oil/resin ): Iosso cream to polish: MWP procedure: rescribing & detailing panels - weathering: Mirage IIIc cockpit w/ air intakes & Snecma Atar 9c mockup: test to fit For more info & pics: http://www.adventurephotomodels.com Thanks for the attention George
  35. 16 points

    Dragon BF 110 C-7

    Time to finish it off. Here are the remaining canopy bits. Dragon gives you alternative parts for open or closed gunner's canopy so I used the open ones. Likewise there's hinges for the upper pilot's one if you pose it open. One problem I had was that I had to hold the plane upside down while the glue set. With the lower fuselage antenna in place, everything was finished. It'll be a day or two before I can get some proper RFI shots, so here's a couple for now. Carl
  36. 15 points

    Butcher Bird

    My Hasegawa FW-190A-8 in Heinz Bar colors.
  37. 15 points
    Forgot the redone head armor. Still missing the fastening bolts
  38. 15 points
    Hi all, While walking through town with the wife, we went in a 1 euro/Outlet Kind of shop, just to pass some time. There, hidden in a pile of puzzles and other useless toys I saw a 1/32 Tamiya F14 Tomcat "Black Knights", I could hardly believe my eyes! Upon checking the box I saw the original pricetag of €149 ($152), it was reduced to €75 ($77) and when my wife asked what the price was, the girl at the counter said it was €35 ($36)! So without hesitatiion I bought the F14, and a puzzle thing for the wife. A very nice start of the Weekend! A happy Sunday to all of you! Rob
  39. 15 points
    Finally got back to my Spits..been extremely busy,.....Surprised at how long the Mk XIV fuselage was..much longer than earlier Merlin powered Spitfires(bout 3 feet)..A very cool looking aircraft in my eyes. Still have much work to do,..but very much enjoying the journey.. Thanks for dropping by..Bill
  40. 15 points
    Hey Gazza! Thank you, my friend! It's all the same plastic right? Some things are going to much simpler. No mottling, for example. However, the weathering and fading on these Marine aircraft is going to be a challenge to replicate. I have the base colors in both Mr Hobby Aqueous and AK Real Colors and they are way too vibrant and dark. So I have to put on my thinking cap and ponder how to approach the painting. Thankfully, I have lots of time before I get to that stage! Any show about WW2 caught my interest when I was growing up. Was the documentary series, The World At War, ever broadcast in Germany? I remember being engrossed in that whenever it aired. Thanks Guy! I'm jumping around a bit on this build. I'll be leaving for a short trip to Hawaii in a couple days so I'm not ready to jump in full bore yet. So just checking things out... working on small details. I took a look at the Vector resin cowl flaps. I figured that I could at least get the casting block off. Fairly easy to do since the connection between the block and the flaps is very thin. It only required a light sawing around the circumference to free the flaps. But the flaps are pretty delicate and have a very thin ring along the top edge. This connection broke during sawing and had to be re-attached using CA glue. Also, one of the corners of the flaps was busted off. It appears that this was already broken before I worked on it. I used a piece of thinned sheet styrene to patch the corner. In the photos, I can see a small hole/crack in one of the flaps that I didn't notice before. Should be an easy patch. I've been reviewing other Corsair builds online. There is some wonderful work on Corsairs and I found one here at LSP by Wolf Buddee that gave me a little mini-project to do... the throttle quadrant. I basically copied what Wolf described in words and photos. I modified the quadrant by chopping off the levers, adding slots to the top of the quadrant using a razor saw and then adding new levers made from small bits of photoetch brass. The knobs are blobs of white glue but they seemed to have dried looking like raisins and not round balls. I may have to re-do them. I hope Wolf doesn't mind me copying his work. I'm not able to do everything that he has done in his amazing build but following his work did give me inspiration to try some of his techniques. Thank you Wolf! I probably won't do anything significant until I return from Hawaii next week. So until then...
  41. 15 points

    Su-25 Afghantsi

    Not wanting to make you wait, I will post the progress made over last week. Once I finished my F-15i Ra'am for the desert GB, I jumped right into the Su-25 and with all this AM, there is a lot of sub projects. In no particular order, I worked on the load-out, assembling Harold FAB-100. Delicate assembly but I think they look great and should look even better under a coat of paint. I did some preparatory work for the resin wheel bay, yikes! Cleaned all the resin, primed the major components for the cockpit and front bay and started preparing the inside of the fuselage halves as well as the resin components to fit The quality of the Aires casting is simply awesome: and after some careful prepping work but nothing approaching the work required in my Me-410 project, I am happy to report that the fit of the front bay and the cockpit is excellent, the two halves of fuselage holds all this resin without any tension or gaps. There will be need for some clean-up but overall I am super happy with the fit: Now I can go put some color on the primer. Cheers, David
  42. 15 points
  43. 15 points

    Dragon BF 110 C-7

    Well, she's a bit big for my photo booth so I've done the best I can with the RFI pics. Carl
  44. 15 points

    BIG 1/18 Fw190a-8

    Painting. I’ve got the basic colours down now. I’m using MRP paints. I love these. They spray like silk and they have a degree of transparency. Some might call that a failing, but if you’ve pre shaded they allow you to finely control the finish. They just need a few coats, but they touch dry very quickly so it’s all done in one painting session. The only drawback being it takes more paint and, on this hunk of plastic, I used the WHOLE bottle of RLM 76 (light blue) literally every drop from new. I’ll have to order another one now having only bought one last week. I started the process with the standard procedure of silver (Alclad aluminium) at the wing root to be followed by hairspray, then chipping but then realised I’m not using acrylics . I went for just leaving the root areas bare and using acrylic just for that area, you can just see the slight colour mismatch but looks like weathering! I brushed on AK chipping medium. Although I’m beginning to think that standard hairspray works better (think I may go back to that on future builds. It chipped ok, but not as well as I’d hoped). Everything was sprayed freehand - a little rough but I think that probably matches the aircraft. As my painting mask set was totally useless, I’ve ordered a new set from Maketar Masks. Alek there was super helpful and they are knocking up a 1/18th version of their Fw190 set ST21. This happens to match one of the versions supplied in the kit, so I’m going for that one as I can use the kit decals for the small staffel/ personal insignia. It’s the Hans Dortenmann Red ‘1’ version. So I’m now waiting on those coming through then many processes of weathering to come - although I’m planning on keeping this subtle. Stay tuned. Guy
  45. 15 points
    Next up was the............................ Umbrella of all things!! Floyd from Werner's Wings was gracious enough to send me one of his 3D printed 1/32nd Me-109 Trop umbrellas. I have to say it was tad pricey, but it really is well done for what it is. The umbrella in 1/32nd scale was much larger than I expected, but for the size of the Dornier, it works! The umbrella is about the size of a large US .50 cent piece or larger. Here it is just after I un-boxed it, and prior to clipping off the printing supports: You can see on the top right section of the umbrella, a slight point was broken off of one of the tips of the umbrella. This was not a big deal to me at all, as it was going to be an easy fix IMHO, and things happen. So.......................on to me attempting to cut it out of the printing supports...............THIS is where it got all fowled up! Apparently whatever material this was printed out of, is not like PLA in that it can be flexed a bit without issue. The detail and stepping is really wonderful on the umbrella but the material is HELLA brittle. I started gently (so I THOUGHT) snipping out the supports, and in the end, after snipping all of them off I realized that two complete sections had their edges crumbled off after clipped off the supports in that area. Bummer. BIG bummer! I was worried about how to fix it and retain the fidelity of the 3D printed part. What I ended up doing was tracing out a good section of the umbrella, and tracing the edge sections onto the thinnest styrene sheet I had. Surprisingly it worked out OK so far. You can see here the damage I caused and had to fix. Still along way from as good as the 3D printed edges, but not too shabby if I do say so myself. I think this will look fine after slathering it with some Mr Surfacer and then sanding/priming and sanding again: I also fixed the original tiny single missing point that was there from the start: This is just all sitting here, and when the end comes, I have a LOT more work to do on the umbrella, as I would like to add the internal rib connections between the main pole, and the ribs that are always seen, as well as angling the very top of the umbrella and adding what will appear to be an angle adjustment piece on the umbrella pole. The wire is not cut to length yet, but overall not too bad, and a little stiff here, but gives you an idea of what Ill be going for: Fortunately, with the way I've designed the umbrella holders on the fuselage, the umbrella will always work just like the real thing, and will be removable for transport and what not. The Milliput has now had a couple of days to dry, and after I take some pics for a review I need to get done, Ill be back on the pylons attempting to shape the Milliput. Cheers, and thanks for stopping in on me!
  46. 15 points

    "Willie the Whale", FINISHED

    canopy finished 96 by karl holubar, auf Flickr 97 by karl holubar, auf Flickr
  47. 15 points
    I added some tire slip marks per Victor's comment. The main landing gear legs have been cemented into place. I'll need to be careful with the fit of the tires as they are kind of loose on the axles. I need to make sure the flat spots hit the ground flat so I'll wait until the glue is completely dry. Looking at the pics, I think I need to mess up the interior sides of the engine nacelles. The nose gear door has been glued into place. I'm not sure what that wet spot on the front tire is but I'll double check it. I've given the model another flat coat. It was a 2:1 mixture of Flat to Gloss to avoid the white frost effect. I think I'll stop it there in terms of flatness.
  48. 15 points

    F-35A, Italeri 1/32

    F-35A Italeri 1/32 ready Painted with Mission Models MMP-083 Have Glass Grey FS36170 and Testor Model Master Neutral Gray FS36270. Decals are Furball Aero-Design "F-35 Anthology Big Scale Lightning IIs". Tail markings are 388 FW, 34 FS, Hill AFB, UT. This thing took a lot of TLC and patience during the build. The lower fuselage was warped to the point I almost tossed the build. I was able to save it once the fuselage went together by leaving tape wrapped around it for 12 hours. The wing to fuselage gap is horrible! I wish I would have filled it more but it didn't look bad until the final topcoats were applied and I wasn't going to re-prime and re-paint those areas. Assembly was straight forward and many parts slid right into place ,amazing. Overall, I am extremely pleased with how the build turned out. Yes, the Have Glass Grey appears silver or grey depending on light and angle. I haven't built anything in 1/32 since 2006, I think I'm hooked on this scale.
  49. 15 points
    Finishing up the cockpit, I found an error on my part on the left cockpit wall, I glued the front cockpit light on the wrong side of the forward vertical frame, the light should be on the rearward side of the frame, not in front of it, needs to move so that it doesn't interfere with the cockpit tub. I will try to post an image. Also I discover that the kit has no rudder pedals so I made some up out of styrene, you don't need to do a lot with them as they are pretty well buried under the Instrument panel.
  50. 14 points
    Thanks guys! Since the punch set was already out, I decided to use it to make clear dial covers for each instrument. These little clear discs were secured into place using a drop of Alclad Aqua Gloss as an adhesive. One step up from simply using a drop of clear gloss to replicate the glass covers. It's hard to tell unless the glare reflects off the glass. I put the instrument panel parts in a little plastic baggy for safe keeping. I jumped over to the resin parachute to see how easy/difficult it would be to remove the casting block from the resin parachute. I was especially concerned about the delicate loops and buckles. Holding up the resin to the light, I can see that the resin is quite thin around alot of the parachute. These areas would be fairly easy to poke through with a single swipe of a sharp knife. But there are other parts that have some thicker resin underneath. Instead of trying to extract the piece in this state and risk a broken buckle, I sanded down the casting block until the excess resin was paper thin around the entire part. After that, tracing lightly around the parachute was enough to free it from the excess. But even with my precautions, I had some casualties. You can see that the release cord has broken. In the end, those delicate parts I had tried so hard to protect ended up breaking anyway. So I had to craft some replacements. The release cord is a piece of 0.15mm lead wire and the harness clips are from some Luftwaffe belts I had in the spare box.
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