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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/20/2020 in Posts

  1. 25 points
  2. 22 points
    Gisbod

    ICM 1/32 Gloster Gladiator

    Hello All, Just finished the new ICM Gladiator. I liked it very much. Simple build (like an Airfix 1/72 starter kit really), but none the worse for that. Just good fun. Thanks, Guy
  3. 22 points
    kensar

    The Tommy in 1/32 scale

    Here is my latest scratchbuild, a Thomas Morse S4C, known as the Tommy. I think this is a significant plane as most WW1 aviators had time in one. This 1/32 scale rendering has a Vector resin engine and a turned aluminum cowling. Turnbuckles by Gaspatch and Eduard. Insignias painted on. Thanks for looking in. Comments welcome.
  4. 20 points
    LSP_Kevin

    LSP down.

    Yes folks, that was a fun ride. Our hosting company is next to useless, unfortunately, and when I couldn't log in to or even restart the server, they left us high and dry for 48 hours. Needless to say, we'll be moving to a new hosting company as soon as it's practical to do so. Thanks everyone for your patience and understanding! Kev
  5. 19 points
    mozart

    Ducks to water?!

    So there we were, Lins (my wife) and myself, doing a bit of gardening when along comes Mama Duck, calling loudly and receiving back many cheeps! Trouble was, her ducklings were the other side of our deer and rabbit-proof fencing, in amongst stinging nettles, brambles and much other dense undergrowth. I climbed over the fencing and set about re-uniting Mama and babies, handing each one carefully to Lins. Mama sensibly took them straight onto the pond.....duck to water comes to mind. Long story short: 3 hours later we had found 8 and Mama gradually stopped calling, but we thought one was still missing. Despite all our best endeavours we never found it. Later in the afternoon the duck parade marched off to the lakes next door. Entertaining, worrying, rather sad but delightful to see all the babies. Enjoy! Not easy for a day old duckling to get through.....nor for a 72 year old to find them! Warm and drowsy!
  6. 19 points
    Hi guys, let me present my recently finished Hs-129 from ZM Great kit with nice details It was straightforward OOB build, I have added HGW seatbelts and some wires only Painted with MRP and finished with MIG and AMMO wetahering stuff Works in progress thread here Thanks for looking jan
  7. 19 points
  8. 18 points
    Here is my 1/32 Kittyhawk OV-10A that I completed late last year. This model was built to represent the aircraft that Squadron Leader Graham Neil and Flight Lieutenant Ken Semmler flew during the Vietnam war on the 6 JUNE 1970. Both of these men were pilots in the Royal Australian Air Force and were part of the group of 36 that served as FACs under the USAF during the conflict. Graham was awarded a Distinguished Flying Cross for his conduct as a Forward Air Controller during this mission. I haven't had the chance to show Graham the completed model yet due to Covid19, but I was able to show him the partially completed model during its construction. The model. Additions: Airscale instrument decals. Master Pitot tube AoA decals Reskit wheels AMS ejection seats Eduard exterior photo etch Aerobonus Helmet with hand painted Roo. Archer raised rivet detail added to forward fuselage Modifications/Scratch built items: Raised cowl fasteners replaced with engraved ones. 5 x fuel caps scratch built. Scribed the missing fuel panel on the centre of the top wing. Scratch built the missing lower left access step. Scratch built bomb beam inside centre pylon. Added small bolts to front of spinners. Scratch built cockpit access ladder. Scratch built forward air vent in front of the windscreen. Scratch built the air vent under observers canopy and tops of both crew canopies. Added lots of wiring inside the cockpit. Scratch built the throttle and pitch levers. Scratch built canopy actuator and stay mechanisms. Scratch built the canopy window locking mechanisms x 4. Scratchbuilt bulkhead and armour plate behind pilots seat. Added brake lines. Faired in pitot tube to the nose cone. Various antenna and aerial wire. Scratch built stall warning tab outer right wing. A few other things I have forgotten. The actual aircraft after the mission mentioned above:
  9. 17 points
    JimRice

    Roden PT-17 Stearman

    I received my Roden PT-17 Stearman kits (2) from Ukraine last week and started work over the weekend. I began with the upper and lower wings, which was very straight forward. While the engine is the next item in the instructions, I chose to skip over it to the fuselage which is largest sub-assembly containing the most parts. Also, with the molded in fuselage stringers, which give the fuselage it's shape on the real bird, required some time and effort to mask and paint. Last night, I closed up the fuselage and test fit the accessory cowlling between firewall and engine. I'm ready to begin the exterior painting. I will be modeling this on my dad's old duster as it would have looked in 1940 when first built and put in service. I decided to postpone the engine build until I was ready to being painting. This will give me something to work on while paint is drying...and keep me busy long enough to keep from smudging the fresh paint. I hope. Here is a link to my Stearman album of planes my dad and I restored in the late-70s/early 80s. Lots of good detail photos for anyone interested. https://imageshack.com/a/Vmqd7/1
  10. 16 points
    Nic C.D.

    F-5E Aggressor

    While I'm working on the Spanish Harrier II, I finished an F-5E from Kitty Hawk. Bad at photographing models, I should buy a new camera and get some lessons... Anyway, here it is. This is the 6th Kitty Hawk kit I've made and this is the easiest by far. The T-28 and Kingfisher were really good, the Bronco, Sabre Dog and T-6 took more work. I've added a little detail to the cockpit, canopy and gun bay, I painted the tail. The blade antenna on the spine was replaced by the black GPS receiver. On the centreline is a external fuel tank, adopted from a brown aggressor. There was a bit of work to get the windscreen fitted - and some putty needed - but it turned out okay. The tubing on the seat and behind it is all scratched from different sized lead wiring. Masking the inside of the air intake was a pain, but worth the time. The panels and rivets from the kit are impressively nice. After painting and shading, just a wash is needed to get the details popping. The decals in the kit are great, but as mentioned, I didn't want to risk the decal for the vertical tail and painted it. Here's another photo of it; it was painted with Revell Aquacolors and some details in Gunze water colours. I saw a photo with part of the trailing edge flap in zinc chromate yellow, I thought that was a nice touch. And now, I get back to the Harrier II, I hope to finish it in a few months. Afterwards, I'll start a Mirage 2000D. That's one I've been waiting a long time to get and build. Haven't got it yet, but that just a matter of time. Ow, and I'm doing a little side project with a Ramjäger. I hope you like this Tiger II, sorry for the bad photos, the kit looks much better on my desk than in the photos. Keep building, everyone! Nic
  11. 16 points
    Hey all! more progress- Thanks for for stopping by! cheers Pete
  12. 16 points
    Besides the tedious and annoying job of adding groove lines and surface detail, I have added the viewfinder bulges in the radome. They were blanked over on most ERA-3Bs, so there is no need for any internal details. I have started with a 3D printed basic shape which was glued to the radome: The fairings were then sculpted with Magic Sculp. A view of the fuselage shows the use of vinyl for raised surface details. I am rather happy with the result, but paint does not stick very well to vinyl. I sadly haven't found any other self-adhesive material which cuts as nicely but is easier to paint. I you have any suggestions, your feedback would be highly appreciated! Bonus: a rare view of Dymo tape being used on one of my models. I am not a huge fan of that stuff but it is very handy as aguide to scribe compound curved parts.
  13. 16 points
    Thunnus

    1/32 Hasegawa Fw190D-13 Yellow 10

    As an additional resource, I went ahead and purchased the Real Model D-13 conversion. In terms of components, it is similar to the GM conversion minus the fuselage. Resin casting is very nice and clean. The top cowling seem to be very similar to the GM version. So it looks like I have at least two choices when it comes to this area. I could even attempt to sculpt my own! The Real Model D-13 conversion set comes with a set of instructions that illustrate the type of corrections that I planning. The only difficulty I see is that removal of the existing supercharger intake base on the starboard side and re-implementation of a larger base for the new supercharger. A few steps more complicated than the port side but I'm hoping I can handle it. Comparatively, the Grey Matter D-13 conversion comes with no instructions but just an informational sheet, which claims "no cutting is required". Obviously aimed at the more experienced modeler. I sawed off the RM cowling from its casting block, cleaned it up and mounted it on the Hasegawa D-9 fuselage. It took some extra trimming on the cowling ends to get it to fit, length-wise. It appears that the bottom rear edge of the cowling is narrower than the fuselage, resulting in a slight step that would need to be corrected. The GM cowling, although not perfect, fits better than the RM cowling. Dimensions seem to correspond more accurately to the Hasegawa fuselage and will require less remedial work. The two D-13 supercharger intakes are slightly different in shape. The RM intake has a leaner look with a thinner lip around the intake opening. It also has some recessed panel line details missing from the GM intake and, maybe significantly, it includes more of the flare at the base. I am leaning on utilizing the RM intake as it would take less work to mount.
  14. 15 points
    Thunnus

    1/32 Hasegawa Fw190D-13 Yellow 10

    Just for reference, here are the cross-sections of the D-13 that indicate that the bulge was only evident along the top edge and not the bottom as depicted in the GM resin conversion... I thinned the edges of the cowling flaps. Again, the D-13 is slightly different than the D-9 in that ALL of the cowling flaps are extendable. On the D-9, there is a fixed cowling flap on the starboard side. I cut the fixed flap off and replaced it with a piece of brass sheet. I COULD replace ALL of the flaps with brass sheeting but I elected not to. As long as the trailing edges are thinned, I think the plastic flaps look fine. On my past D-9 builds, I erroneously assumed that the outline of the wing insert piece were along panel lines but this is incorrect. So after I glued the insert pieces into place, I filled the non-panel line joints with black CA glue.
  15. 15 points
  16. 15 points
    Thunnus

    1/32 Hasegawa Fw190D-13 Yellow 10

    Time to inspect a new aftermarket item. This is the Aires Wheel Well set for the 190D. Aires casts some of the most intricate resin bits that I've run across and this one is no exception. The wiring detail is almost TOO fine. Since the Hasegawa wheel wells are separate inserts, it should be a plug-n-play replacement and there shouldn't be any messy removals to deal with besides removing some hefty casting bases. Note that the Hasegawa wheel wells has almost all of the details as the Aires parts but they are not as finely rendered. So the deficiency is not one of omission but execution, which may be relevant. The kit wheel well insert is integral to a spar that helps maintain the correct spacing between the upper and lower wing parts. Grafting the spar into place with the Aires wheel well parts should not be an issue. When I place one of the Aires wheel wells into place, I start to notice some issues. With the skinny end of the Aires part butted up directly against the landing gear base, the holes for the wing guns do not line up correctly. And the wide end of the part doesn't reach the end of the wing part like the kit piece does. As if the Aires part is undersized. The three major components of the Aires set fit positively with one another so I temporarily glued them together using CA glue. And then took measurements using a Micrometer. Centering the Aires wheel well onto the wing bottom reveals the gap caused by the undersized wheel well, which is actually not a huge issue in my book. I'm more worried about the alignment of the wing gun holes. The Aires wheel well parts are definitely undersized. I COULD get them to work, if I wanted to. But I'm thinking that the enhancement in detail is not worth the effort. I also have this... which could be used to spice up the Hasegawa wheel well a little. I'll think about it. The first step to establish the fuselage bulge has been taken. Instead of randomly slathering some putty, I want to use sheet styrene as a form to help establish some consistency.
  17. 14 points
    I keep putting off the work on the Harrier II I'm building, so I built Revell's very nice Rammjäger. It isn't completely done (I'm waiting for some seatbelts and easy wire for the antenna I've ordered), but wanted it to show here already. It is built out-of-box, except I riveted the kit. Took me about 6 days to build it. Decals are also from the box and I have to say; some of the best I've used! Very impressive! In all, there are 4 canopies in the kit, This is the 'open' one with the armour side windows. This kit is ideal for when you like to build a weathered kit! The instructions mention the camouflage to be RLM 74/82 over RLM 76, but it is RLM 74/75 over 76. Here's the starboard side: And the port side: And just one more on the field: This is a great kit for a very reasonable price and I will surely build another one of the rammjägers. I have an F8 in the stash, maybe I'll give that one a go! However, I can't keep putting off finishing that Harrier, so that'll probably be the next one I'll post here. I hope you like the result of this A8/R2! Keep building, you all! Nic
  18. 14 points
    Cheers, Gentlemen! Just a quick comparison between the fuselage as it looked after assembly and after a year and a half of work. Seems I'm a bit slow, but there is more than a few coats of primer and a bit of sanding between the two photos...
  19. 14 points
    Thunnus

    1/32 Hasegawa Fw190D-13 Yellow 10

    The foundation for this conversion is the "bulge" and that is what I have been working on yesterday and today. Because it takes so long for Milliput to harden, progress has been slow but I've finally reached a rough approximation of the what bulges will look like. Using the pieces of styrene as a guide and base, I've applied Milliput to build up the bulge and transition it back to the fuselage. The pieces of sheet plastic created some issues for me. I thought they were thin enough so they would conform to the curvature of the fuselage. I even took extra care of securing the top joint firmly with Tamiya Extra Thin cement, waiting that to cure and then gluing down the bottom joint. Still, the plastic sheet ended up being too flat and I've had to add a bead of putty down the middle of the white plastic to create a more uniformly curved surface. This took multiple applications of Milliput, with each of them allowing to cure at least 4-6 hours before sanding. In the down time, I ended up painting the seat from the Eagle Editions cockpit, which comes with two versions: one with belts and one without. I'll probably end up using HGW harnesses but I thought I'd see what the other seat would like like with a quick paint job. After a few iterations of puttying and sanding, I've gotten to a point where the bulge has been established and curvature of the sides of the fuselage have been restored. Unlike the GM resin fuselage, I've elected to transition the bottom edge of the raised area cleanly into the fuselage, creating a single "ridge" along the top edge and not a bulge with an upper and lower edge. This is based on the cross-sections of the D-13 in my Dora Volume 2 book. Time to shoot this sculpting exercise with the some primer to check my work. I used Mr Surfacer 1200 cut with Tamiya Lacquer Thinner. Hey, where did the bulge go? That's what I thought after I sprayed the primer on. My result is much more subtle than the GM conversion. I can definitely see it in person and also feel it when I run my fingers over the model but it doesn't show up very dramatically in the photos. Is this a good thing or bad thing? The lack of panel lines or other details adds to the disappearing act and I think the rivet lines will accentuate the curvature. But the disruption camo pattern will do the opposite and help hide the surface curvature. I'm going to set this aside and think about it. There are some edges and transitions that need to be cleaned up... maybe during that process I'll end up liking my result a little more.
  20. 14 points
    Bruce_Crosby

    Taifun

    More 108 by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr More 108 by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr More 108 by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr More 108 by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr 108-3 by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr 108-3 by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr 108-3 by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr 108-3 by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr Seats by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr Seats by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr Seats by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr Seats by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr Seats by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr
  21. 13 points
    shadowmare

    IBG PZL P.11C "Dzwonek" 1:32

    Hi guys! New kit from IBG, full of details and with realistic surface on wings and fuselage. Unfortunately not without some issues like wrong propeller and headrest. Plastic sharpness could be better too. Company from Poland - BitsKrieg is already making replacements. I used some of them. List of changes: - Own printed decals and masks - rivets added on engine cover and on bottom of fuselage, - engine cover hinge removed, - cables added, - headrest was entirely covered in leather pillow, - mirror replaced, - movable elevators, - landing gear strenghten, - ailerons positioned, - YAHU IP and Radio panel, - compass added, - propeller,spinner, front engine cover BitsKrieg I recommend this kit, because it's fairly simple and comes together fast. More info about pilot and plane, he destroyed Hs-126 in September Campaign: http://armahobbynews.pl/en/blog/2019/05/16/turkey-marked-pzl-over-the-borderlands/ WIP topic: https://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?/topic/84354-ibg-pzl-p11c-polish-beauty-132/
  22. 13 points
    Marcel111

    1/32 F-14D VF-213

    Believe it or not I spent a full day just trying to get the sheen of the skunk stripe to look right... which is a little glossier than the surrounding gray, but not totally glossy either. I replaced that funny looking braided wiring... Cheers, Marcel
  23. 13 points
    I finally kicked this one over the line I need a bigger sheet for a plain backdrop, and more lights! Richard
  24. 12 points
    red baron

    F 8 E (FN) CRUSADER

    hello, my last built :
  25. 12 points
    Troy Molitor

    LSP down.

    That seemed like forever Gents! Thanks for getting this back up! Kev?????
  26. 12 points
    Hi All First post here, and it's not Large Scale so already not a great start Here are some photos of my Tamiya 1/48 F-16 built up as an Aggressor aircraft based at Nellis AFB. The Tamiya F-16 is about as nice a kit as you can get in 1/48 (certainly better than the GWH F-15E I just finished), but I added some additional details, which if I'm honest probably weren't worth it: Aires F-16C/N Cockpit - although the detail is amazing, the fit of the resin cockpit in the kit was pretty poor. I had to thin down the kit parts so much to get it to fit, so I suspect it wasn't designed for the Tamiya kit despite being sold as such. Also since so little of the cockpit is actually visible I'm not sure all that work was necessary Aires F-16C Wheel bays - again I'm not sure they were meant for this kit despite what the packaging says and since they aren't that visible from most angles I should've probably skipped them and stuck with the kit parts Aires F-16 exhaust nozzle - this was a drop in replacement for the kit parts and is so much more detailed that I think it was worth it! Aside from the Aires resin pieces I also used a mask kit from DN models (excellent) and TwoBobs decals (also excellent). I chose this scheme partly because I found a lot of good photos of this aircraft (85-418) and partly because it doesn't have multi-colour walkway lines so I didn't have to worry about lining up the camo colours with the decals The ordinance under the wings is from Meng, specifically from their recent US Air-to-Air missile sets. These are really nicely moulded one piece missiles, and the decals are also very good. The only changes I made were the blue inert missile stripes which were painted on since the Meng set comes with the yellow/brown live missile decals. The ACMI pod is from the Tamiya kit. The TwoBobs decals were excellent - perfect colour, minimal film and they settled down very well with some decal solution. They were also tough enough to withstand some poking to get them to go into the panel lines. Even the tiny name decals on the canopy are easily legible. They even included the tiny star decal for the HUD surround. Thanks for looking!
  27. 12 points
    Marcel111

    1/32 F-14D VF-213 - Finished!

    Big thanks for all of the encouragement on this build. She is now DONE! The updates have been skimpy, that's in part since modelling the Trumpeter Tomcat has been so well covered elsewhere but also because I really just wanted to get this build done, it was quite the battle. Many more pics over on Ready for Inspection. Cheers, Marcel
  28. 12 points
    I hope it's ok to post this here, but I think it's very nice. Cheers Rainer
  29. 12 points
    CANicoll

    Revell Desert Rat P-51D

    Hope everyone is having a good (holiday in the US) weekend. REALLY looking forward to the three day weekend! Got a bit more done today , closing up the cockpit sidewalls. Looking at the IP and the sidewalls realized I needed to add about 12 more decals and I know there are a few more I can still add. Right now I have bits from Tamiya, Revell, Barracuda and Airscale adorning the cockpit. I keep forgetting how busy the cockpits really were. But first - the radiator intakes. View from the opening, but we all know hardly any of this will be visible. But wanted to show a dirty exit so here is what it really looks like from above too. The streaks were done by putting a spot where the radiator is, and blowing towards the exit. Imperfect, but it won't really be visible anyway. Almost forgot to put the side supports on the seat but here they are. The darker shade of green shows up better in the cockpit rather than having a monochrome green and in the cockpit don't show up as that much of a difference. The supports came out of the Tamiya P-51D kit. They are actually silver rather than brass as the other PE pieces are, and hard to see here, but I rubbed off some of the green paint on the wear points, revealing the silver/aluminum underneath. Eduard color PE for the fuselage tank gauge. The picture is a bit over exposed as silver is showing up as white. Also, some more dirty wash on the floor board. Did a bit more work on the sidewalls as well. Most of the markings are from the Barracuda Cockpit placards pack. And the other side. Added a decal over the Eduard Color PE on the throttle as the printing on the PE was too faint to really see. Also added the brass 'chain'. The Barracuda resin sidewall pieces have places to actually put in maps and mission report forms. Here they are represented just by paint. And closed up, dry fitted here: As much as I really liked the Barracuda canopy rails, I just could not bring myself to cut these off and attach a PE set. Painted aluminum with a black wash. Closer look at the IP - final version... Added a few more placards as well as well as realizing I had missed the entire mid-section decal Been watching some of the history channel shows on WWII lately as well. VERY interesting and timely! Have a safe holiday everyone. Chris
  30. 12 points
    Thunnus

    1/32 Hasegawa Fw190D-13 Yellow 10

    Thanks Damian! I feel more comfortable establishing a physical baseline for the sculpting. I call those "hitchhikers"! When I was in Alaska, we were catching huge lingcod that were way bigger than the slot limit. As I was reeling in a smaller one, I could feel it suddenly get heavier and sure enough, there was big ole lingcod trying to eat the smaller one. It was funny because the captain thought the smaller one was within the slot limit and started hitting the bigger fish with a net to make him let go. Additional forms to establish the base of the bulges have been added. After this dries, I'll start sculpting with Milliput.
  31. 12 points
    repeater

    ZM SWS P-51D Red Dog XII

    Thanks all. Great to be here! @Iain I found it difficult to choose a scheme. So many iconic and colourful choices... do I go for something different, or try and do justice to a 'classic' ? Thanks @dennismcc and @Lothar - this is an excellent kit - clearly a labour of love for Zoukei Mura. IHMO the surface detail not quite as good as Tamiya but that is the benchmark. Thanks @Kagemusha and @Out2gtcha, hopefully this will be interesting! I've made a start on the cockpit which will be mostly OOB with minor additions. Here are the kit sidewalls, done as follows Gunze paints, with additional details picked out with a brush stencils/placards from Barracuda. The kit decals include some of these but they are not quite as good. oil wash and oil dot weathering. I improvised a bit with the instrument panel: - the kit offers a clear plastic IP and one with raised details. - I used the clear plastic part, put the kit decal (dials) on the back of the panel, and sprayed the back with black, then just an enamel wash on the front - used some decals from the barracuda set - some painting of knobs and dials for the lower switch (?) panel So a bit of a hodge-podge. 'Good enough' as it's not really that visible in the final kit. Love the details on the pedals ie. the NA logo. The seat is from the kit, with HGW seat belts. Obviously very fiddly to 'construct' the belts but worth the effort. That's all for now. Any feedback, criticism, comments etc is welcome! cheers, Tim
  32. 11 points
    Marcel111

    1/32 F-14D VF-213

    Hi guys, I finally finished this build, phew! Definitely the most challenging project I have completed, there are modifications big and small required for about every assembly step (so no point documenting them all). But now that I have her done I am really pleased with the result. This pic was taken just prior to finishing, so still lacking a few things like some oil streaks at the wing gloves. Close-up to follow...
  33. 11 points
    Thunnus

    1/32 Hasegawa Fw190D-13 Yellow 10

    Thanks guys! Not the usual approach, especially having purchased both conversion sets. At least I'll be able to utilize components from both sets. The wing insert panel has been dealt with. Looks a mess now but it should be work out nicely under a coat of paint. Now I'm going to take a look at the Henri Daehne resin prop. This one is almost identical to the Ta152H prop that I just used except the prop mount is geared toward the Hasegawa D-9 kit. Surprisingly, there is a part missing... the backing washer that aligns the prop shaft from behind the radiator face is missing. Luckily, I have a bunch of HD D-9 props so I fished the missing part from one of those. There is some removal of casting blocks to deal with but Mr. Daehne provides a fully detailed instruction sheets with exact dimensions which takes the guessing out of cleanup. The rounded blade tips are the distinguishing feature between the D-13 and the Ta152H. I double check the fit of the HD prop to the fuselage... Finally jumping over what's normally the first step of any build... the cockpit! The Eagle Editions cockpit for the D-9 is molded in a light-colored resin. This is not a plug-n-play set and will require some removals and shaving of the fuselage insides to make it fit. I have limited references on the D-13 cockpit and I'm not sure how accurate these references are. But I went ahead and made some changes based on the photos found in Mr. Crandall's Dora Volume 2. The D-13 has a cannon firing through the spinner and the cannon breech supposedly intrudes into the cockpit between the rudder pedals. I've never seen a photo of this breech but I think the center section of the instrument panel will hide it. The Eagle Editions cockpit comes with a bomb-control panel that seems to sorta kinda of match the panel in the photo. The starboard console looks very similar to the console in the Ta152H. Coincidentally, I have the kit pieces for both consoles from the Ta152H build since I used the RB Productions photo etch replacements. It's a pretty easy grafting job to put the Ta152H panel onto the D-9 cockpit. The port console is close enough to keep as is. Now that the D-13 changes to the cockpit have been mapped out, I'll have to start cutting up the kit fuselage to make it all fit.
  34. 11 points
    mozart

    EE Lightning - Echelon vacuform

    Well it's been a while but here's an update........not a terribly exciting update, but an update nonetheless! The nose wheelbay/radar bullet is finished and painted, I may do a little weathering on the cone later but it's OK for now. At at the rear end the pipes and exhausts are just about ready to be installed. No golf and no gardening tomorrow, I'm having a day off, so more progress with both Lightnings I hope!
  35. 11 points
    DrDave

    Dorawings 1/32 dewoitine d500

    What better relief from frontline icu than to find a brand new kit on your doormat? Arrived today from the Ukraine, the new D500!
  36. 11 points
    Madmax

    A6M2b Zero - shades of grey

    Hey Tim, now that Zane has the artwork he can make many more decals! Here is his website: https://www.mavdecals.co.za Thank you Ryan! Your knowledge of the subject just saved me from putting the stencil in the wrong place... As to the construction number on the sub-assembly plates - LOL is right! I'll be lucky to get it onto the fuselage stencil. Hi Ed, Great to get your input here. The Houkoku (Gou) concept is fascinating to me, and apart from what is written in the Pacific Wrecks website, I can't find much information on the subject. I imagine that there was good propaganda or publicity value in the unveiling or presentation of these sponsored weapons of war, that probably included everything from tanks to warships. Surely there must have been media of sorts at these presentation ceremonies, which raises the question; where are the photographs? Wouldn't it be great to get a glimpse of these gleaming machines with the representatives from the "Domestic and Foreign Printing co." (in this case) as well as the ever present military headquarters types, maybe even a pilot - who would rather be flying! Just a thought. I digress - the decals are on! The serial number stencil is from the HGW wet transfers, and is maybe a little squashed into place. I think in retrospect I should have made the Houkoku a mm or two shorter. In fact, Nick suggested that but I was just being a bit contrary as I had seen how big the decals of HKK 1053 were. Still, I think it looks great. The decal is nice and crisp with good definition, and thin carrier film that will virtually disappear under some clear varnish. Start the compressor...
  37. 10 points
    Hi Everyone 32D024 has landed £5.00. email me at aimsmodels1@gmail.com if interested, thanks, John
  38. 10 points
    Jennings Heilig

    Some good news...

    Just heard from Jonathan. After a rough night last night, he said the docs are talking about possibly releasing him home on Monday. Fingers crossed.
  39. 10 points
    evening folks not had too much bench time strangely, but thought I would drop in with progress - most of my time has been building up a big PE fret of many, many parts.. first up, I got a 3D printed console and made up a litho side panel - the details on this will be replaced by PE... Also made the sidewalls and added the doubler and the single stringer that runs fore and aft.. (though I made it too long, it stops at the Instrument panel but anyway.. ..now to the PE - I have spent ages trying to find drawings and have a CD off ebay and the few manuals available, but they are mostly illustrations rather than schematics and really to do this properly you need a good dimensioned drawing.. anyways - some of the stuff on here: floors radiators cockpit panels canopy panels canopy details bulkheads seat parts rudder pedals cowl flaps prop blade bosses exhaust parts ..basically months and months of parts if I had to make them traditionally.. take a look around I always print them so I can check they are sized correctly.. ..here I can see I used the wrong fuselage template for the sides so these rear fuselage panels wouldn't fit properly.. (though they mount slightly forward of this position on the seat rails).. ..the radiator parts fit well.. ..so these need to get off to PPD to be etched, but they are still in or recovering from lockdown so there will be a delay in production I also put a walkaround of all the parts and a 'how to' video on Patreon so folks can see how easy this all really is TTFN Peter
  40. 10 points
    turbo

    Matchbox 1/32 Bf109E-3 Resurrection

    The next layer of weathering consisted of some subtle salt fading on the upper surfaces and fuselage and addition of some stains and grime to the lower surfaces. I used light grey enamels diluted around 1:10 with thinners for the salt fading which won't react with any residual water in the salt crystals. As well as further fading the camo, salt fading introduces an interesting effect resembling stains and splotches. Despite careful cleaning of the salt, small crystals often randomly appear in the days following salt fading. You can see some on the machine gun access hatch in the picture above. I'll give it a few days and carefully clean all of these off before proceeding to the next stage. Some staining and grime was introduced to the lower surfaces using enamels. I'll let these layers cure for a few days before moving on to the next stage...
  41. 10 points
    Etienne

    KH Mirage 2000 [Renaissance Rflight]

    Hi all, Some advances, but it's very long to do, not only because of the subject. I need a clear mind in my head.
  42. 10 points
    DrewH

    RCAf lost a Snowbird today.

    I flew the tutor in early 90's as a CAF pilot. Later as a Flight Safety officer (black diamond badge on my flight suit) and investigator I've seen my fair share of military aircraft accidents. I'd climb in to any and all those aircraft at any time. They are that well maintained. Things go wrong, yes, same as your car. We're not taking '60's cars off the road for maintenance or safety due to an accident when someone was killed? There are risks in everything we do, how we mitigate those high risks, respect and understand them is part of the job that we accept. Just an FYI - I need more than one hand to count the number of friends I lost in the Canadian Forces. All flight related during peace time training. I especially won't speculate even with what I know - as a thought is purely that of what the cause may be - as not only is it fruitless but irresponsible and reckless. Nor will I make statements as to the limitations of systems. A lot of issues will be raised, the most important is to learn from every link in the chain of events. I ask this community to refrain from speculation and respect the memory of Capt. Casey by doing so.
  43. 10 points
    Ready for riveting.
  44. 10 points
    Thunnus

    1/32 Hasegawa Fw190D-13 Yellow 10

    Let's take a look at the Grey Matter D-13 conversion kit. It is a resin conversion comprised of two fuselage halves, the engine cowling, supercharger intake scoop, spinner, prop blades, center fuselage section and the engine bulkhead minus ammo chutes. The parts are molded in light grey resin and upon first inspection, it is a mixed bag in terms of quality. The fuselage pieces are quite thin and flexible. The thickness of the parts seem to be similar to the kit parts, which is probably an attempt by the maker to reduce the amount of work it would take to accommodate the internal kit parts. The loss of rigidity may introduce alignment/strength issues but perhaps the joining of the fuselage pieces to one another would achieve an acceptable level of strength. The top cowling has been modified to reflect the absence of guns above the engine. The Jumo 213F engine of the D-13 required larger support arms that necessitated bulges in the frontal fuselage as well as a larger supercharger intake. The D-13 utilized wide paddle-shaped propeller blades (VS9) and a MG 151/20mm cannon firing through the spinner. You can see a bit of the inconsistent molding quality in the Grey Matter spinner. The single engine-mounted gun used one central chute for expended ammo casings and the resin kit provides the necessary modification. The fuselage parts are not perfectly square with one another and there is some warpage but with a few adjustments, I could probably get them to fit. All of the D-13 modifications occur forward of the cockpit. The major mod being the addition of a subtle longitudinal bulge on either side, above the exhausts and below the hinge line, designed to clear the larger engine support arms. Comparing the kit fuselage on the left with the resin fuselage on the right, you can see that the thickness of the resin is comparable to the kit plastic. You can also see some of the inconsistencies of the resin mold... the plug for the exhaust stubs will not be able to seat properly without some major cleanup. A general observation of the molding quality of the resin kit... the components that are unaltered from the Hasegawa kit are clean and molded about as finely as you would find on the kit part. The areas of modification, however, varies in refinement as evidenced by this circular fuel port, which is mounted slightly higher on the D-13 than the D-9. And I thought I was bad at centering concentric circles!
  45. 10 points
    pennausamike

    Rex in Limbo

    Well, after less than two decades, I'm calling this complete. The whole Kawanishi family is ready for the display shelf. The Shiden Kai was sitting on a busted tail wheel for a long time, so I fixed that. The Rex was in-process for (I think) 16 years or so. And I knocked out the old Shiden in one month. Feels good to have them all off the "to-do" lists. Note: Photobucket changed their site, and the Image links aren't the same as they used to be, so I posted it two ways to see what works best. So folks should be seeing a smaller pic on top, larger on the bottom.
  46. 10 points
    williamj

    Trumpygawa Hellcat x 2

    Finally got around to laying some paint down...now the fun starts,decals and details. Still have a carrier deck and figure to get to as well. Such fun...Cheers for now.
  47. 9 points
    Trumpeter's 1/32 AV-8B II Plus, built in four days and is a four footer at best! All markings were painted on using masks created on my Cameo Silhouette (these are on a future decal sheet, but needed them now). Centerline pylon and APKWS Pod (not shown) were designed in Fusion 360 and 3D printed (also future releases). Base was made and donated by a fellow Marine. This is being hand delivered to VMA-231 today and will be presented to LtCol Grunke at a squadron party tomorrow evening. It's his going away gift as he relinquishes command.
  48. 9 points
    Iain

    1:32 Hawker Siddeley Andover E.Mk 3

    So, let me introduce Mr T Bar - one of my most useful, and yet most basic, tools! It's a section of extruded aluminium with a handle shape on one side - and a perfectly flat plate on the other. You attach sheets of relevant grades of wet and dry to the flat face with Spray Mount adhesive (removing old residues with White Spirit). I bought it years ago from John Adams (Aeroclub) to help me with vacform projects, but it's been very useful for a huge number of other things. My hope was that the thick trailing edges on the Andover print were actually hollow inside - and the skin actually formed a box, rather than a solid. Well - it is a hollow box! So - scribe a line down the middle of the flat trailing edge in relevant parts with the scalpel blade until cut all the way through. Open up a section at top and bottom of component to allow for flex - and the outer surfaces to bend. Run along this central cut - on the inside of it with a diamond file - until there's enough space to pry the edges apart and insert the side of the T Bar. In this case with 400 grade wet and dry. Sand along one side until edge razor sharp (didn't take much) - then turning the T Bar around in the 'slot' to sand the trailing edge on the other side. This illustrates better: And we end up with this - look at the difference, for not a lot of work! Section at left is the upper part of the rudder removed from the fin, and prepped with the T Bar as above. Section at right is the section removed from the rear fuselage, with the original trailing edge. This made me really, really happy - it means sorting the trailing edges of all the flying surfaces is now going to be relatively straightforward I reckon. A celebratory glass of vino was quaffed in celebration! Iain
  49. 9 points
    Thanks people! The more I think about the bulge, the less I'm inclined to change it. I'm thinking that it is probably more in line with what the actual aircraft designers did when trying to accommodate the larger engine bearers and is supported by the profile drawings. It just doesn't jump out at first glance. A few minor adjustments were performed per my references. The fuel port on the starboard side is slightly LOWER on the D-13 than the D-9... And the primer fuel port on the port sides is slightly HIGHER on the D-13 than the D-9... After some slight touch-up putty was applied, the fuselage was set aside and took out the Eagle Editions tail gear. The parts go together rather well but I'm going to strengthen the connection between the parts using brass tubing. I made an axle for the tail wheel. A larger diameter brass tube was used for the connection between the wheel yoke and gear strut. The "sit" of the tail gear can be adjusted by shortening the strut. Without modification, you can see that the gear sticks out a little too much, based on reference photos. So I cut down the strut for a more naturally weighted position of an aircraft in service.
  50. 9 points
    There, that's better.
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