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P-38L-5-LO, s/n 44-26412, "Shady's Lady", August 1945
spook and 29 others reacted to Miloslav1956 for a topic
Trumpeter 1/32 model, Kagero decals, Reskin wheels set, Phoenix cockpit, All colors MRP30 points -
Brush painted Kotare Mk.Ia Bit more progress...
Archimedes and 25 others reacted to Kelly for a topic
Hello there, I haven't made a model kitset in ages so dusted off the Kotare Spitfire. Great kit, as has been often said. Seeing as my cat riddled my airbrush hose with toothmarks (furious) I've taken to brush painting. All those lovely little raised rivets on the fuselage cause havoc with my painting technique because I do a lot of sanding to keep the surface smooth. They all had to go. I found a lot of the panel lines quite indistinct and soft so had to re-scribe quite a lot of the fuselage aft of the cockpit. Paint is Atelier Free Flow artists acrylic mixed to approximate WWII colours. I went with close enough is good enough. All the weathering has been done with very watery Derwent Inktense watercolour pencils. Chipping is tiny dots of Vallejo silver paint. Really enjoying modelling again. I've been keenly watching all the fabulous builds on this site. Keep it up everyone! Cheers, Kels.26 points -
1/16 scale scratch built AT-38B Talon-The Smurf jet is back!
stusbke and 23 others reacted to Pete Fleischmann for a topic
The long slow march towards the front of the jet continues- cheers P24 points -
1/16 scale scratch built AT-38B Talon-The Smurf jet is back!
Trak-Tor and 23 others reacted to Pete Fleischmann for a topic
Tail position light. The master for these was turned on a lathe by Timmy! Years ago. I used the aluminum master to make clear resin copies for the wings and vertical tail.24 points -
1/16 scale scratch built AT-38B Talon-The Smurf jet is back!
Marcin_Matejko and 23 others reacted to Pete Fleischmann for a topic
Got the tail antenna up..still needs to be blended in. Also the tail beacons. Continuing to skin the belly-24 points -
Tamiya F-16 Aggressor, Kicked Up a Notch, Mar 15/24: Cockpit Installed and other tweaks.
themongoose and 21 others reacted to chuck540z3 for a topic
March 14/24 This build marches on with quite a few updates. With the main landing gear bay pretty much finished, it was time to finish the front landing gear bay. While a lot smaller with less parts, there are still some important things you need to do in order to get the Aires resin to fit properly. Here’s a few pics of where I was about a year ago. The surface detail on the bottom of the intake needs to be sanded down, but so does the top of the resin part. The Aires resin doesn’t have a notch for the gear leg to fit into, which tilts it slightly forward like the kit parts. The fix is to cut a small notch and glue in a styrene block for the front paddle to slide into. The bottom of the metal leg or the diagonal struts need to be trimmed as well. This provides the correct angle and the ability to remove the gear leg until final assembly, much as I did with the main landing gear. Although the Aires “instructions” don’t mention it (no big surprise there), the actuator and control arms Part F2 and F3 must be trimmed and cut as shown. After painting and assembly with the other intake parts in Step 8, here’s how it looks with a little bit of grime added for contrast. Here’s how F2 and F3 should fit the resin gear bay. Much like the main landing gear, there are a lot of hydraulic and electrical lines that are attached to the front gear leg. I only added the front 2 hydraulic lines, because they are the most visible from the front. Again, I used blue lines like pics I have of the real deal. Before gluing the front intake assembly to the rear intake assembly above the main landing gear bay, I painted and glued the front fan Parts P1 and P24 to the rear of kit part B31, because it doesn’t fit the Aires resin at all. As shown earlier, I had to trim down the Aires resin quite a bit in order for this fan to fit at all. Here is the front intake glued to the rear intake and rear air duct. The big air duct ring Part C34 is not used or needed, but to close up the sides of the rear intake, I used strips of white styrene to close the gap and make it less obvious. You can’t really see this gap from the front unless you use a flashlight and peek inside, so I took the easy route for once and focused on what you can actually see, instead of trying to make this deep assembly seamless. On the bottom, I needed to sand down the central rib of the Aires gear bay a bit more…… …. so that Part C27 is a drop-in fit at the end of the build, after I install the main landing gear and other bits. This part was a bit too short for some reason, so I added a white styrene spacer to make it fit better. Aires supplies a resin replacement, but it's even shorter, so I don't know why they bothered. I finally got the Aires cockpit to fit the upper fuselage pretty good, so a revisit of what is involved is shown again below. The back of the kit cockpit wall needs to be cut out, which was a bit crude on my part, so I filled in my mistakes with CA glue and sanded them smooth. The fit is much better now. The front area around the coaming/glare shield is another matter, because the Aires parts don’t fit the kit parts at all. To be fair, not even the kit parts fit very well, which leave a very noticeable gap at the front that must somehow be filled. This is a shame, because on the F-16, there is no front windshield to hide all these flaws, so many modifications to this area need to be made if you want something that looks close to accurate. I closed the gap at the front with some strip styrene, but the sides are still a bit of a mess. More strip styrene to the rescue, among other tweaks here and there. Here is the end result after painting from a variety of angles. The black areas are not “weathered” yet, because I want to mask all of this off for painting, and weathering agents like pastels will reduce the adhesion of the tape. Even the back area looks pretty good, at least to my eyes. So how did I fill all those gaps without making a big mess with putty and paint? I finally gave a bottle of black CA glue a try, but it was very risky. I thought that if I applied the glue from the back, it would ooze into the gaps to close them and already be “painted” black, while gluing the cockpit into place solidly. What really made this work was the viscosity of the glue I had on hand, pictured below. It was a bit thick, maybe a touch more than medium viscosity, which allowed me to apply it with a micro-brush from below, working it into the gaps one small segment at a time, then flipping the fuselage over so that gravity wouldn’t let the glue move down too far. After it dried a bit and became relatively solid, maybe 3-4 minutes, I flipped it over and applied more glue to the gaps on either side in a sequential fashion, never letting wet glue move to the surface of the cockpit for very long- maybe less than 5 seconds. If this glue was super thin like the CA glues I usually use, it would have made a big mess and ruined everything. If it was too thick, it wouldn’t have filled the gaps very well and would have been lumpy when it dried. For once one of my little experiments worked, and I will always glue resin cockpits this way from now on. Since I’m using the Thunderbirds kit which is primarily a Block 32, it doesn’t come with a gun like the Block 50 kit. It even has a plug, Part Q5, which is supposed to be painted white. Since all Viper Aggressors have a gun and are battle ready, I just painted the inside of the gun area flat black, so that all you can see is something dark and maybe not notice the lack of gun barrels. Gun panels glued into place, since they will never come off. This kit calls for a side vent, Part C4 in Step 19, like this Block 32 Ghost scheme Viper, 86-299. All pics are mine at Nellis AFB. My subject, however, is 84-220, a Block 25 Viper with no vent on this side, amongst other small differences. I’m not really sure, but it looks like the rear window is clear and not tinted? Tinting variability of Viper canopy glass is all over the place and there are few hard and fast rules, which is why the kit comes with both clear and tinted glass parts. Still, I'd rather make my subject as "correct" as possible, so does anybody have a good pic of what this rear glass should look like? The front canopy is tinted for sure. As a result, I’m not drilling a hole or installing the vent as instructed. When I get to the rear vertical stabilizer, I won’t be added any vents either, as Pete Fleischmann so kindly guided me way back in December 2022, a few months after I started this build. 86-299 again (Block 32) 84-220 (Block 25) So that’s about it for now. With all the heavy lifting over, the rest of this build should go fairly smoothly from now on, right? Famous Last Words for sure! Cheers, Chuck22 points -
Hi, everyone. I guess it's time to get my membership card to the Kotare Klub as there seem to be about a million of these in the WIP forum right now. Since finishing my Corsair diorama, which took months, I wanted a quick, straight forward build as something of a palate cleanser. My son said he thought it'd be neat if I did a Spitfire, I had the Kotare Mk Ia (mid) kit in the stash, I've never build a British aircraft before, and so, fate was decided. I departed from my usual MO of recreating an historical photograph and decided to just do a fictional, but feasible scene. I've wanted to depict battle damage on an aircraft since I was kid, but never really had the skills or practice till now. So, being that this kit has a low parts count and went together really nicely, I decided it would be a good platform to try my hand at damage. I thinned the interior plastic walls with a low rpm rotary tool, carefully punched and pried holes in the weakened area, then painted and streaked the area to look the part. Aside from the rigging wire (EZ-line), figures (Black Dog Resin, out of the box), and the base (el cheapo panel board), the kit is presented out of the box. I even used the decals in lieu of my usual gig of cutting masks and painting. This experience reminded me that I'm way out of practice working with large decals, but after a few minor scares, they turned out okay. This is a Spitfire Mk Ia of 610 Squadron sometime in the summer of 1940 before it was damaged beyond repair that August. "Bit of a rough go today, eh, chap?"20 points
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SH Tempest from Germany ⚡ 1:32
John1 and 19 others reacted to shadowmare for a topic
Painting stage, all of "decorations" painted using mask or handpainted like bell-emblem on tail (not perfect but had no decals unfortunately). Im not a fan of black-basing rather like to brighten surface using surfacer as a base, then I modulated primary colors making efects of worn metal surface. I will use decal roundels i'm not patient enought to mask them :).20 points -
Hi all, first post on these forums. Many thanks for all the tips and insights everyone on here has shared that have gone into my builds!20 points
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Brown B-2 „Miss Los Angeles” 1/32
Paulpk and 18 others reacted to Marcin_Matejko for a topic
Decals made according to my design at MF Zone, I recommend it :-) Link: Custom decals Varnish and polishing: Engine assembly: To be continued19 points -
1/32 Trumpeter P-51B Mustang with Aerocraft corrections
denders and 18 others reacted to Tolga ULGUR for a topic
Rear cockpit area is completed for this time being Next step is cowling and exhausts.19 points -
1/18 Supermarine S6B - S1595
Starfighter and 17 others reacted to airscale for a topic
thank you all, very kind So, the painting stage is looming.... I needed to get some new etch primer as it only has a 12 month shelf life and frustratingly it is still not here yet.. I have worked out the colour (I think) - some of the original paint is still on S1595 in the Science Museum (it was repainted ages ago in the wrong blue, likely roundel blue) so I did some samples and arrived at what i think is a reasonable match given the limitations of eyeballs, digital sampling and light I took all my similar blues and did a tester, photographed in natural and artificial light and ended up mixing a shade from what I had - this is the analysis.. It is what it is, there are no colour pics so sue me if I am wrong... ..while waiting I busied myself and there is absolutely no construction remaining.. Pitot tube done - complex little thing.. ..cockpit canopy done, another complex little thing - i hate doing transparencies as they are just a huuuuuge opportunity to fu#k up.. also all the beaching gear was made of plastic and wood, and the wire wheels finished.. ..again with no colour photos, I painted them what I thought / interpreted - basically battleship grey as it's likely marine paint.. ..added the petrol cans and trolley.. ..and thats it - the next time I post, it will be all painted.. wish me luck ..in other news, I have decided on my next subject - something I have wanted to do for ages but thought it wouldn't fit in my display cabinet - I measured again and I think I can just squeeze it in - any ideas? TTFN Peter18 points -
1/32 Trumpeter P-51B Mustang with Aerocraft corrections
Sasha As and 17 others reacted to Tolga ULGUR for a topic
After Fuselage, I turned to wings. Because some corrections are needed before joining the fuselage. I have marked in the pictures what needs to be corrected or added. Some panel lines need to be erased and replaced with new ones. Similarly, the landing light must be moved inward.18 points -
1/32 Dragon Bf-109E-3 "Dr Erich Mix"
coogrfan and 17 others reacted to Tolga ULGUR for a topic
Some progress18 points -
Good morning to all I would like to share with you my super detailed cutaway of the old Airfix 1:24 scale Ju87B. I just love this kit and decided that I wanted to do something a little different. I wanted to make a cutaway of the Starboard side plus the wing. After searching dear old Google for hours to get some sort of info I started. I built this many years ago and sold it on, so the photos are from way back! ....so apologies for the quality of them! I haven't been active on here for a long time as I have moved back to the UK from Bulgaria.. so I do hope I remember how to load the photos! Cheers...................... Thanks a lot for taking a look! Cheers Fozzy17 points
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1/32 Trumpeter P-51B Mustang with Aerocraft corrections
Sasha As and 16 others reacted to Tolga ULGUR for a topic
Aerocraft's exhausts were placed. The upper cowling piece was also glued. It looks like there is no problem for now. Is it starting to look even a little bit like a Mustang? Or is all this effort in vain?17 points -
Boeing 747-436 ‘British Airways’
Alex and 15 others reacted to tomprobert for a topic
I’ve always enjoyed building civil aircraft and usually have one or two on the go alongside my longer term LSP builds. So here’s the latest civvy completion from me - Revell’s 1/144th scale Boeing 747-400 with DrawDecal’s British Airways decals. It’s been built out of the box, other than my usual mod to these kits in adding some height on the cockpit crown area with some Milliput to correct the profile. Although it’s getting a little long in the tooth now, the kit still builds reasonably well once excess flash is removed! I was really sad when BA retired the 747 - not only is it one of my favourite commercial aircraft but I’d flown long-haul on them more than any other type and thought I’d do my own little tribute to ‘The Queen of the Skies’. The real thing was my last 747 flight when she brought me back from Australia once… the ‘Kangaroo Route’ is now 777 or 787 and it’s not quite the same. Long live the Queen! All the best, Tom16 points -
Yak-9T – René CHALLE – Régiment Normandie-Niemen – ICM 1/32
Alain Gadbois and 15 others reacted to Furie for a topic
Well, a bit of work on the beast, nothing too impressive but necessary to have something well finished before painting. I glued the 2 upper wings to each side of the fuselage, to make the joint as nice as possible, then glued the lower surface to the fuselage and to the 2 upper wings. I also glued to the bottom of the 2 air intakes on the 2 wings, a grid made from a flour sieve (thanks Paolo for the tip). The 2 horizontal tailplanes are also glued on, but I left out the 2 ailerons + vertical fin + 2 movable horizontal tailplanes. Some engraving on the engine cowl and also some rivet lines, but not too much as the plane was quite smooth. Note, but it won't surprise those who know me well, that I forgot to glue the cockpit floor once the wings and fuselage were glued together... Big moment of solitude... *sigh of weariness* I had to unstick the bottom of the pilot seat and patiently managed to get the floor in place and glued... A photo of 2 Border pencils for engraving structural lines, ordered from Ali Express. Micromesh 12000 was applied all over the Yak, followed by a coat of MRP Dark Alu paint only at the panel junctions and on the wing fillet. Next, an even coat of MRP black to start the BB'ing.16 points -
1/32 Kotare conversion; Supermarine Spitfire LF Mk.Vb YO-A 401 Sqn RCAF.
Shoggz and 15 others reacted to monthebiff for a topic
A little more done and learning from my MkI early build I found I had huge problems fitting the the wing assembly to the fuselage following the kit instructions and gluing the fillets to the wing so this time I glued the fillets to the fuselage hoping for a better fit I do love the way Kotare have captured the look of the wing fillet to fuselage joint, it looks very good indeed in my eyes. After a test fit and taping the fuselage together I dug out my now out of production Department of Correction Rotol propeller out. This is a really nice set and a shame they are no longer around but the fit is really good on the Kotare kit Here are the blades which as you can see they have gone to the extent to depict the brass sheath on the leading edge Looking foward to getting this painted, decaled and weathered! And a test fit of the lower wing to the fuselage to see where we are and the general look of things So far so good and definitely got a better fit of the wing assembly with the fillets glued to the fuselage halves instead. Regards. Andy16 points -
Brown B-2 „Miss Los Angeles” 1/32
chaos07 and 15 others reacted to Marcin_Matejko for a topic
Thank you :-) To be continued16 points -
Here are the next pieces that have come off of the printer. I have completed the rear fuselage and am working on the engine pods. Different colors on the prints as I changed filament spools. The head of the model has been sanded vigorously. The print lines from the FDM printer were very prominent. It also has a coat of primer, or 2. White squares are small patches of white sheet plastic added to replicate the details seen from several sources. I have added a few white pipes with many more to follow. As I researched Y wings I think I can honestly say that no 2 are exactly alike. Detail differences abound and paint work is quite varied. Several collectors are in pursuit of the perfect movie model. This will not be one of those. The method that the designer used for the long "T" connectors was practical for ease of printing but not for construction. I have replaced them with Evergreen T shaped rails. A closeup view of the engine pod shows many unacceptable print lines. I may need to find a way to print the engines on my resin printer. Stay tuned. Although the basic Y wing file was only $25, many areas lack sufficient detail for such a large scale model. Luckily you can purchase detail parts to add to your model. I have looked at nearly a dozen of these detail packages. Most are in the $20 range. You can easily get lost in the weeds purchasing all of these parts. Perhaps this is the designers game plan. Purchase the basic kit for $25 and end up spending over $200 in detail parts. Not gonna work with me. I will design and print out whatever extra parts that I need. Dan16 points
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Anyone for a new 1/32 Spitfire Mk 24 ?
Tony T and 14 others reacted to Sage the Owl for a topic
DBMK models have posted a thank you on their Facebook page to Duxford for letting them 'LIDAR' their Spitfire 24. When asked what scale they planned they confirmed it would be 1/32. I'm guessing that we're probably a couple of years away from any potential release after the Sea Fury, Hornet & Tiger unless they bump it up their schedule. Good news if it comes to fruition as the Matchbox kit needs to be replaced with a state of the art model. It's taken a long time but between DBMK & Laminar Flow Designs, the big Griffons are finally getting some well deserved large scale love.15 points -
As always; striving for mediocrity Thanks for looking15 points
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Crusader time..!
chaos07 and 14 others reacted to PieterGSXR for a topic
And these.. More photo's to Come in " Ready for inspection"15 points -
Trumpeter MiG 29 C (digital Ukrainian camo) finished
geedubelyer and 13 others reacted to chrish for a topic
A little more progress to report on. After three days (off and on work) placing some couple hundred decals (at least it felt like it) the markings and stenciling is all in place on the model. I have added the gear doors and landing gear and now it's looking a little more the business I'll need to add flat spots to the tires to call them done but, they're doing their job of keeping the thing up off it's paint. Thanks for looking14 points -
Star Wars Y wing
Alain Gadbois and 13 others reacted to Dandiego for a topic
Having been a strictly airplane guy for the last 40 years this build is a big step....sideways. I have always liked the Y wing and have always wanted to build one. But a big one. The only IM kit is a Bandai 1:72. Nice but small. So while wandering one of the 3d print sites I saw some Y wing files for sale. $25. What a deal. The transaction was simple and 10 minutes later I had the files. In all of my research I came across a term that I was unfamiliar with, Studio scale. Essentially this is the scale that was used to produce the movie miniatures that were used in the movies. Or 1:24th scale. Cool. Nice and big. The downloaded files were in 1:18th scale. Even I am not this crazy. Well, at least not yet. So after doing some math I determined that if the files were reduced to 75% it would be 1:24th scale. So I reduced the size and began preparing the files in my slicer. However, many of the parts are way too big to fit my smallish resin printer. This necessitated printing the smaller parts on the resin Machine and the main body parts on my filament machine. Anyway here are the first parts. Both printed on my filament machine. Stay tuned. lots o fun ahead. Dan14 points -
A parting of ways
europapete and 13 others reacted to Archimedes for a topic
d Sea but I’m not seeing any problems. Kin egards ul14 points -
A parting of ways
europapete and 13 others reacted to Oldbaldguy for a topic
A parting in the Red Sea? Holy Moses!!14 points -
Tamiya 1/32 F4U-1 Corsair
chaos07 and 13 others reacted to Nikola Topalov for a topic
Engine plumbed and ready for weathering:14 points -
Kawanishi N1K2-J Shinden-kai, 1:32, Hasegawa
denders and 13 others reacted to Chuzam Naj for a topic
My George is just ready for an oil wash. I had a problem with yellow stripes on the fuselage. First I used a decal. However, compared to reality, it looked too uniform and partially transparent. Therefore, I masked the border of the stripes with Tamiya tape and painted with a brush.14 points -
Members 209 Gender:Male Location:Sheffield, UK Author Posted just now It's been a while. Redecorating the hall and a little trip to London got in the way and we're off to Portugal on Sunday so I thought I'd better get a little update up on the meagre work I've done in the last few weeks. Just to top it all off, my laptop (steam driven and I DON'T mean the games platform!) crashed on Saturday last week so I've just finished a re install and putting all my dodgy software back on, just joking Microsoft and Adobe. So first up, the floor was fastened to the port fuselage. This isn't strictly Airfix instruction manual but I'm figuring it'll pay off later....I think. Next up was to add some general dirt and grime then start to look at the gunner's area. I'm using the ammo racks from Airscale's kit, of course, and it differs from the kit parts in that there are two extra magazines which fit on the starboard wall which I'll sort later but also the two main racks are considerably larger than the kit parts. So large in fact, I had to take off the rear portion to get a reasonable fit. I may even need to take more. I'm thankful the crew aren't being fitted. The next major issue is the waste cartridge storage bag/box. I've seen so many conflicting images and even the contemporary manuals themselves concerning this damned bag. This diagram comes from the 1938 manual for the JU 87B It clearly shows a metal frame with a hessian type bag slung from it, as does this lithograph type picture from the 1939 B1 manual This also shows the magazines we'll come to later. But then, same manual, very next picture down the page is this, which approximates the Airfix kit part of more of a metal box affair If I had hair, I'd be tearin'. I've decided to go with a bag type arrangement as I can't really see how they'd empty the box unless it had a bag inside it. The Airfix kit has the whole fixture fastened, wrongly, to the stanchion holding the magazine racks in a very flimsy way. It does fasten to it but the holder for the bag is much more substantial and bolted to the rear of the fuselage as well. So I fashioned this as a rough approximation. NOTE: Below the bag, you can see a map holder and a gas mask cannister. I've added them to the fuselage as they aren't in the kit or moulded to the sidewall, and made a scale map from an actual bombing map from August 1940. It fits here You'll notice I've done some, hopefully, subtle dirt and grime and grease additions as well as some chipping in worn areas. The wiring's been replaced with real wire and the Morse key added. The red and white bar takes the cables from the rudder pedals aft. Also corrected is the trailing aerial winch. On the kit it's all one part as here: Whereas, in actuality, it was split as in the photo Before fitting the bag structure, I needed to make a little cover for the rear of the fuselage. The kit is very rough and on the real aircraft, it was a much neater arrangement with a few info plates on it. I'll marry everything up when the two sides come together. Next in came the magazines for the rear gun. They're a vast improvement on the kit part, if a bit of a tight squeeze They'll be levelled up later of course Onto the other side. The Airscale kit provides the oxygen bottles for pilot and gunner and the 1939 manual gives us the routing of the oxygen pipes which run to the oxygen filling port on the starboard side of the fuselage. Anything oxygen was blue on Luftwaffe aircraft. The regulators, I chucked together from a couple of bits from the spares box. The oxygen pipe to the masks is a wire core, wound with thinner wire then covered in shrink tubing and painted olive green. I've scratched up the circuit breaker panel as well. Lastly, I've decided to fit the inner wing sections before closing up the fuselage as it'll be easier to clamp them together to get a good fit than it will if I'm clamping a completed fuselage.....CRACK!!!!! Hopefully I'll get another update in before hols. Thanks for looking14 points
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Thunderbolt ...
patricksparks and 12 others reacted to MikeMaben for a topic
Got some more markings on, Serial on tail is a stencil, others are Alps printed. Some ugly silvering , waiting for something in the mail. These pix look more green than IRL.. This one has better color ... Thanks for lookin' . p.s. the squadron badge (rooster) and the numeral 5 are from an Eaglecals decal (excellent decals)13 points -
Why Keep Threads On Topic?
blackbetty and 12 others reacted to Iain for a topic
Without the very light moderation we do here - things *would* go down hill - and potentially rapidly, as we've seen at times in the past. We're damned if we do, damned if we don't: but we have seen things get nasty before now so, sometimes a little pre-emptive action is required. Moderation is *never* an exact science - but we're all volunteers and try our best to keep things on an even and friendly keel. And we're human... It does get a little tiring having to deal with what, at times, seems like endless, and petty, sniping - some of us would rather go and build something. Iain13 points -
Silver Spitfire 'The Longest Flight'
TankBuster and 12 others reacted to kkarlsen for a topic
First tests with foil... I did some initial testing with chrome paint, but decided to go for the aluminum foil. It's a lot of work, but I think it's going to pay off in the end. The shininess isn't too much, it has scratches and ripples, the rivets are barely visible as on the original aircraft. Overall the Foil adds to the 'illusion' of the aluminum surfaces. There will be some imperfections, but overall I'm satisfied with the result. Cheers: Kent13 points -
I finished last night and forgive me but I didn't want to post anymore, I was too sleepy. For now the camouflage has been applied at the ready, I still have to use the paint masks and decals. Ps. Thanks for the hints.13 points
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1/32 Kotare conversion; Supermarine Spitfire LF Mk.Vb YO-A 401 Sqn RCAF.
Shoggz and 12 others reacted to monthebiff for a topic
A very enjoyable evening doing my favourite part of a build which is decals, Cockpit all decalled and very happy with the results So with the cockpit completed to this point It was time to file away several mm's of Yahu Mk.V instrument panel which was designed for the terrible Hobby Boss kit which is troubled by very poor shape. Time for a little weathering and then bring everything together. Regards. Andy13 points -
Hello again, A little bit of progress. Added some decals, rivets and more weathering, etc. The decals are really good quality. I really like them. The blue of the numerals I've heard queried at some point, and it is fairly rich. I like it, and think it sits nicely against the dark green and earth. I tried something new with the exhaust marks. Using very watery ink pencil brushed on in a criss-cross, multi-layered technique. Not as soft and lovely as airbrushing of course, but again, my darn cats! I'm also experimenting with using the same process to go for a gentle "zenethal" lighting effect. My vice-like grip snapped the wing fillet off so its a bit raggedy now. Stupido, stupido! Now, onto the wings! Thanks for your kind words folks, Kels.13 points
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Thanks for the positive comments! The tailpipes are painted with Alcad metal colors (mixed many shades till I was happy with them) then a RB Productions "splatter stencil" was held over the pieces and sprayed with Vallejo rust wash and Tamiya brown panel line highlighter for a rusty look Attention has turned to building painting and decalling the weapons and pylons, there's a lot of decals... the fun continues Thanks for looking13 points
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The beginning of the game, this is the moment I always enjoy. Painting freehand without masking or stencils. By the way you can see my mess on my makeshift workshop. I am waiting for the end of the renovation at home to move to an already normal workshop.13 points
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USS Constitution Tribute Build
Model_Monkey and 12 others reacted to Greif8 for a topic
About an hour after I posted I would be pausing the build while awaiting the sails, one of the experienced sailing ship builders I have been corresponding with emailed me and asked why I was pausing. He pointed out that I could rig the shrouds and lower stays on the masts, and in fact most sailing ship modellers did that kind of work before stepping the masts. He also wrote that very often guys would fix one end of the stays and rig the upper ratlines as well while the masts were off the ship and before the sails were installed. When I wrote back telling him I was seriously considering using the kit shrouds/ratlines as I was not sure my skills were up to rigging the actual shrouds and getting them positioned and tensioned correctly he basically told me to stop worrying as based on the build log he was sure I was more than skillful enough to do those tasks so I should get cracking! I took his words to heart and just finished installing the shrouds and the main stay/preventer stay to the main mast. Following are some photos of either the end results or the process. First up are the upper parts of the shrouds in position. On actual ships shrouds were rigged in pairs wherever possible beginning with a pair or, if required, a single line on the starboard side followed by the same pair or line on the port side, and that is the process I followed. The model has 9 lines for the shrouds for the fore and main masts and 5 for the mizzen mast. Normally the single line would be towards the stern side of a channels, but due to how the shrouds have to be run on the model I put the single line forward. On sailing ships the foremost shroud was thicker than the others because it had been what was called, wormed, parceled and served along its entire length, so I used a 1mm line for the foremost shroud to replicate that look and .75mm lines for the remaining 8 shrouds. I also worked on and positioned the main stay and main preventer stay. These were very large heavy lines and I used 1.3mm line to replicate them. The end that looped around the mast had what was called a Mouse installed on the line, the purpose being to prevent the line from sliding upwards towards the fighting top thereby loosing the line. The end was worked into an eye and seized, and the other end passed through the eye and run to its terminus point on the deck. Believe it or not, the 1/96 scale Constitution is considered fairly small and things like a Mouse normally would not be installed, but I wanted to try make them anyway. First I selected a small wooden dowel. I drilled a hole in the dowel that would allow the line to be run through it and slightly beveled the end. The dowel was cut to length and the other end beveled. I then used the sticky part of one of those heavy band-aid type bandages to wrap around the wooden part. The texture looks close to the actual thing at this scale. The Mouse has been shaped. In the early 1800's a Mouse on the Constitution looked more like a cylinder than a tear drop and I tried to get that look here. Once the stays are in there final positions I will do some minor shaping work, but they look fairly close now. The two ends of the main stay ready to be installed on the mast. Both the main stay and preventer stay have been wrapped around the mast, checked for correct length and position on the mast and now await final rigging once the mast is fixed in place later. I have about 2-3mm of play to make any final adjustments and once the stays have been rigged in place and tensioned I will glue the "mice" to fix them in place and paint them. View of the lines positioned on the mast. I will have to make some minor adjustments once I start the rigging process for these lines, but I got the look I was after. And of course I posted the wrong photo above, below is the right one. Here is how the shrouds and lower stays look in the Marquardt book. I did not get a perfect look, but I think I got close enough. Again a goof with the pictures, very vexing!13 points -
Hello, all. For this group build, I decided to do something a little off the beaten path. I'd considered a couple different fighters in the stash that would be applicable, but ended up deciding on the B-24J that'd been sitting on my shelf of doom for years. I think I originally bought it as a COVID project and, to the SoD it went after something else happened to catch my attention. I typically don't like to do any of the markings included with kits as they often tend to be overdone. And, with access to a mask cutter and decal printing paper, I usually like to try to do something unique. To that effect, I've spent the better part of the evening scouring Joe Baugher's USAF serial number lists and b24bestweb.com trying to determine which ship to build and have ultimately landed on Nan. If you're at all familiar with the B-24, you know that it still holds the title of the most produced heavy bomber aircraft in history. As such, the modeler is left with a dizzying array of options and combinations as to what may or may not be appropriate for a particular build. Best I can tell - and I make no claims to be a B-24 expert - the kit really won't make any B-24 correctly. (This is, of course, ignoring the wing shape and other form issues.) My primary criteria in my search were the nose window and turret configurations, and nothing I could find quite matched the layout of this kit. Either a ship would have the right window layout with the wrong turret, or vice versa. So, we're going to grit our teeth and do the best we can with what we've got. Here's the subject ship. She's B-24J-55-CO s/n 42-99949, nicknamed Naughty Nan. On the right side of the nose, there's a Vargas pinup girl whose head has been chopped off in favor of ad hoc armor plating (See here). She was lost in a mid-air collision with another B-24 on September 21st, 1944 over Belgium. According to the Missing Air Crew Report, 5 of the 9 crew went down with the ship. The most glaring issues between this a/c and the kit are the facts that the kit calls for an Emerson forward turret and also has side windows next to the bombardier's windows. The latter are easy enough to smooth over. The former, however, is a bit of a twist... but I think I have a halfway acceptable plan. Here's what I'm working with so far. Obviously, I haven't done a whole lot yet, but the build has been pain free. It's a huge, chunky kit, but it seems to be going together fairly well. As you can see, I have oodles of aftermarket to lipstick up this pig, including both an Emerson nose turret and a A6C turret from Cold War Studios. Our subject ship has an A6C in the nose as well as the tail. Technically, I have two A6Cs if I include the split-down-the-middle tail turret from the kit. So, in an effort not to spend more money on more lipstick, I'm going to try to use the kit turret for the tail and the CWS A6C for the nose. Crossing my fingers here that everything works out because I'm not yet sure if the guts of the Emerson turret from the kit will fit the A6C turret. (See here for a lengthy discussion. Bonus points for my giddy naivete in the 3rd post) For Naughty Nan, the window aft of the bombardier's sighting glass will need to go. And so it shall be done. Plated off with a little plastic card. Rivets around the area are filled with liquid sprue. Once that's cured, I'll fill the recesses for the windows inside and out with epoxy putty and sand them smooth. So, that's where we're at. Time to finally get this going. As I'm not doing any figures or ground work, I expect this build to go pretty quickly, so stay tuned!12 points
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Sarcasm duly noted. Civil discussion is fine. Differences can be discussed with out any nastiness, or un-civil language. We used to do that as a society. I'm not sure where that ceased, but here, at LSP civility is expected to be the norm. For all members. Given the average age of LSP mrmbers is at least 45 years, I do not know why this even has to be said out loud. Any that feel the moderation or expectation is too high, needs to make some choices.12 points
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Galland, His E4... and Some Friends.
Johnny Cloud and 11 others reacted to Gazzas for a topic
Hi Everyone! These are the final photos taken of my recent completion from the Aces High group build hosted by LSP. The kit itself was sold to me by a fellow LSP'er and I'm glad to get it done. Yet these aren't the pictures I wanted. These are pictures saved from the recycle bin. I wanted pics with perfect lighting taken perfectly. Alas, the perfect lighting didn't present itself, and the model itself suffered a gravity related catastrophe and awaits repair. There are a lot of pics. I hope you like them. More to come...12 points -
1/32 Trumpeter P-51B Mustang with Aerocraft corrections
Alain Gadbois and 11 others reacted to Tolga ULGUR for a topic
Some progress12 points -
A Diversion(some might say another rabbit hole...)
Starfighter and 11 others reacted to David Hansen for a topic
Doing some more experimentation, to determine the best Glossy Sea Blue for an FG-1A. This experimentation is an outgrowth of preliminary testing done on El Corsair Grande Numero Tres, Electric Boogaloo. There are a couple of options i want to evaluate for a suitable Glossy Sea Blue. This is the first. I've mixed a batch of Glossy Sea Blue (which is ANA 623 if i'm not Mistaken), but starting with the formula for ANA 606 Semigloss Sea Blue and making it glossy by dumping a bunch of GX-114 Super Clear UV Cut into the mix. My lighting is terrible, so i wrote down the formula for those of you that wanna duplicate my tests. It's the whole "Scientific Method" thing, i guess... As something of a control, i prime the grey Tamiya pieces with my customary mix of decanted white surface primer, tinted with yellow green and thinned with Mr Leveling Thinner. One of the neat things is you can use those clear, gimmicky cowling parts to experiment with colours on. The paints had zero trouble mixing well with each other, and once i added enough thinner, they sprayed beautifully. The first discovery was dumping in the Super Clear gave the paint a beautiful, semigloss finish that i had trouble attaining by spraying a clear semigloss over flat Tamiya paint. It was as if the Tamiya paint was laughing at me as i applied coat after coat of semigloss on. i will paint the rest of the cowling with this mix.... maybe the Cowling Flaps. Next, i will run a similar test using decanted Tamiya AS-8. Finally, another mix for ANA 623 has been suggested over on Britmodeller so i will test that one as well. All in the name of Science!* *interpretations will vary.... -d-12 points -
This. 100%. Contrary to what it seems some think, we are not out here arbitrarily locking threads because we don't agree with, or don't like what's been talked about; that is not what we nor LSP is about. Civil discussions are not just allowed, but encouraged. As Ron said, it's when members start trading jabs, insults and telling others how to view the forums, that's when threads get shut down. If you feel the need to go to a different forum, by all means, we have no issues with that what-so-ever. We are all adults here and free to come and go as we please.12 points
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Academy F18D Hornet 1:32 "Night Attack"
F`s are my favs and 11 others reacted to Mel for a topic
Hi guys, thank you very much, sorry for the late reply, as for you. @ALF18 You have been an F18 pilot, you know that I admire you a lot, without disparaging other users, let it be clear, I served in the Spanish air force, I was a combat parachute operator, and my dream has always been to be a fighter pilot, but ...unfortunately I did not have the studies to enter the officer academy, but I feel proud to have served, I just wanted to convey my admiration for having managed to be a fighter pilot, as I have said it has always been my dream but I never achieved it With modeling, lithographs, books and people like you and all the users of the forum I enjoy military aviation, as for the kit I combined the Redfox panels with those from Quinta Studio, I didn't want to do it in cool and dark, I'm going to do it on, with N1 and N2 running obviously haha As for DCS, I'm waiting to renew my PC to be able to play again, my PC is already old and I don't enjoy the simulator as I should As for asking him... of course I will ask him any questions, as an anecdote I have a good friend who is a Eurofighter pilot in the Spanish air force, and I also feel proud of him. I leave a little progress, although it seems that it is the same it is not, these two days I have been finishing the details and varnishing to leave it sealed and protected12 points -
I have been assembling after market parts for kits in the stash, many of the parts where highlighted in other peoples builds. Must get round to building a Gladiator And just released. The ANZY stuff and the barrels came from a Max build. Plus lots of other YAHU stuff. Cheers Dennis12 points
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Some goodies arrived in the post this week. The kit has some ok representations of most antennae to install, but the Total Air Temperature (TAT) probe suffers from a rather inconveniently placed ejector pin mark. This extremely small part installs into a keyed opening on the lower fuselage. There is no way I want to try and clean this up - lost one in my first attempt, and not planning on trying again. Seeing the boom in 3D printed parts emerging from small and large businesses alike, turning to Google gave me a partial answer to my problem initially - it did not look like anyone made a replacement. I found PK Productions (Pascal) listing a TAT and Air Data Probe set and reached out to see how to find them. He passed on that Wolf 3D Resin produced the parts, so I dropped an order. A couple of weeks later, the trip from Austria concluded, and here we are. He produces several sets for the F-14, F-15, F-16, and F-18 along with what appears to be a growing inventory and varied subjects. These are very well printed, and super sharp in detail. As a bonus, a better-looking Air Data Probe will also be used. These are razor thin - and carry incredible detail. One-inch squares on the cutting mat for a good size comparison. As I eluded to in an earlier post, I prepared for this in advance by drilling out the keyed opening to 2mm and placed a backer to ensure the replacement could be installed at the very end. This will allow the entire probe to have a natural metal finish including the round base - and be installed at the very end. The current depth is a bit too deep to account for a small amount of epoxy to fill the gap on installation. The Air Data Probe fits quite well on the nose also and will get the same treatment as the TAT for installation. Pre-paint, and installed at the end. Goal is to squirt some paint on the intake and start gluing some larger parts together. We shall see how the weekend treats the bench. Thanks for checking in.12 points
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Released - 1/32 Macchi C.202 Rear Engine Cowl
Uncarina and 11 others reacted to AircraftInPixels for a topic
AKA Cafano Dorsale Posteriore -- with corrections to the Italeri kit part (which has an erroneous hatch and is missing the starboard gun cooling port) along with enhanced detail, including open louvers and fully modeled interior surfaces. Hatches modeled separately, along with the optional small rear-facing scoop seen on the later series. https://www.aircraftinpixels.com/shop/p/132-scale-macchi-c202-rear-engine-cowling12 points