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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/14/2019 in Posts

  1. 16 points
    chrish

    Left over Ju 88 parts

    So...what to do with all those 1/32 Ju 88 noses left over after building a few Aimes conversions.... Hmmm, well, this is what I came up with A museum vignette. I had a bit of fun making this.
  2. 14 points
    A few months ago I began working on detailed drawings for a number of ordnance items, as well as all new drawings for an F/A-18. The drawings are based off of personal photos, measurements, drawings and technical information from Boeing and Navair. This past week I completed the drawings for the SUU-62 center line pylon, SUU-63 wing pylon and the BRU-32 bomb rack. Out of curiosity, I decided to pull out a pylon from one of my Academy Hornets and the difference was a bit more than I expected. There are several modelers that have and will continue to build the kit as it comes out of the box, which is perfectly acceptable! However, there are also several modelers that like to know this type of stuff, then decide on their own if correcting the parts is worth it. This is just a general FYI in case you fall into the latter category. Obviously, the orange outline in the kit pylon. The yellow outline, as well as the completed pylon are based off of measurements of the real item.
  3. 11 points
    So after hearing Chuck and a lot of other modelers talking about Tamiya's X-22 gloss if figured I would give it a try and it's fantastic. I think it's the best I have tried for sure. I used Mr. Color leveling thinner to thin it and I think getting the 50/50 mix correct is important. I thinned it a bit much when painting the bottom which didn't turn out as glossy as the top. I ended up respraying the bottom with the correct mix and all was well. I also have the F-4 stencils from both AOA Decals and Cam. AOA's decals are by far the most detailed set I have seen on any aircraft. In fact, it's daunting with the amount of stencil required for F-4J. The F-4 had several different ejection seat triangles stencils and the Cam set had the ones that were on my aircraft. I used those and the 'danger' part of the intake decal. It took me a week working a few hours at a time to get this thing stenciled up. My only complaint, and it's a minor one, is that every single stencil marking is a separate decal. There are as much as 7 separate stencil decals on one square inch of the model which added to the time consuming process. Time consuming or not, these are just amazing and a must have if you are doing a F-4B or J. Thanks for making these AOA! I only have a few old photos of the aircraft I'm building and some of them show a fairly weathered bird. I think because this was on a ship really dirtied it up a bit more than what I saw with other Vietnam era F-4's. Because of that, I'm assuming a lot of the stencils were wore down although it seemed they were still visible on a lot of weathered aircraft. I decided I would use all the stencils provided but sanded them down to give it the worn look. It tool a lot of time to do since you have to go slow and use a soft grit sandpaper so as not to rip them down completely. I think it came out ok for the most part. I think this angle give you an idea of how smooth and glossy the X-22 is. Some wing stencils before sanding. P.S. You will notice that there is a crack where the intake meets the airframe . Apparently I didn't get enough superglue there so I had to fix that. Always gotta be something! After sanding, what do you guys think? The kit decals were terrible, it was like trying to decal with wax paper they were so thick and would't go down. Even after spraying them with decal sealer they still broke apart a bit. The canopy decals for the names were even worse. Luckily I was able to save it since this was all I had. Sorry for the crappy photos guys and I totally forgot to take pics of the bottom. My good camera is down and this thing is so big it's hard to photograph. I forgot to mention that I painted the intake leading edges aluminum. The instructions say red but it looked like metal to me in the limited photos I have, most of which are black and white. I could be totally wrong on this one. Some of you with a keen eye would notice I changed the tail number from 01 to 02. I was originally going to build 01 but I got confused when I drew the masks and it was a lot easier to change the tail number rather than repaint all the others. Brandon Wood actually caught that little detail! The original 01 aircraft was shot down by a sam missile after it shot down two enemy migs. The pilots had borrowed aircraft 01 so the kill markings were applied to their aircraft 02. Does anyone know if the kill markings were applied while they were deployed or when they returned stateside? Seems I remember reading they were applied while deployed but I can't find the source again. Thanks for stopping by fellas... Bryan
  4. 11 points
    Thanks Juraj! It's still getting refined, but it looks like a B-17! Thanks Brian! The other half is in print now along with a resin version just to see the difference. Thanks mate! Hi D.B. Thank you. At this stage I am not planning on selling these, for many reasons. In the future I may, but what I've created here doesn't solve everything, there's still quite a bit of modelling that one would have to do to complete the conversion. I'm not sure where Alex (Fencer) is at with his design; he has hinted at the possibility of selling his....... Thanks mate, Hahaha, I wish! Even now I can't really afford the time to do what I'm doing here, but I love the B-17 so I'm finding the time from somewhere. Quick update, I've added the windows so you can better see how it will look. The other side is in print now and I also have a resin copy getting built on the Photon, so those comparison photos will follow soon...... This is literally straight off the printer, so there's no clean up except to remove the raft......... Cheers, Craig
  5. 10 points
    Madmax

    Mi-24 in Angola

    Thanks Kev and Brian! Marcel, I am very fortunate indeed, and Nick has (jokingly I think) spoken about a CNC machine more than once now - can you imagine... Here is a little update on the process I have been using to get a weathered finish. Please feel free to comment about the process as I'm sure there are better ways of getting to the end product. Firstly, I dabbed masking fluid onto the upper surfaces with a torn sponge. I then spray a very diluted mixture of white, desert yellow and bit of clear as a "binding agent". This is to create some texture that looks like sun/rain damage. Since the gloss from the decal layer is still mostly in place, I now do panel line washes as it is still easy to wipe away the excess. Then a layer of matt of your own preference. Must be acrylic if you want to do the next two steps... After applying a layer of mig's odourless enamel thinner on manageable panel areas at a time, I painted on "rainmarks streaking effect" and worked it onto the surface as per Miguel's tutorial video's. Then finally, a bit of oil paint streaking and grime according to taste. I tend to under-do this and will possibly still add some more later. After spraying micro flat on the rotors, I found that the hubs became too dull. In an experiment, I rubbed some of the mig Gun Metal pigment onto the hub with an earbud, and then gave it a bit of a polish. Much better in my opinion, and I then used it on all sorts of bits that need a shine. Useful stuff! Now for the final assembly and exhaust staining...
  6. 7 points
    Dave Williams

    Make the others jealous

    Hmmmm, big MiG.
  7. 7 points
    At least that´s the way I would do it! When my ancestors decided not to bother masking such areas, this, IMHO, shows efficiency in wartime. And no, I don´t think we lost the war because such things, hehe...
  8. 6 points
    artoor_k

    Batman is human too...-1/24

    First but not last Batmobile in my little collection. It's a modification of toy. Batman is an addition to one of AMT models, The rest from scratch. Painting as usual, Tamiya, Gunze, Vallejo. Accessories is eduard and what else was lying around. Weathering is mainly Tamiya and Mig.
  9. 6 points
    ade rowlands

    I have a confession to make.

    Well I sat at the bench for a couple of hours with the new Eduard P-51D. I love this kit. I can’t speak for accuracy as I’m no expert on the type but you can tell it’s a P-51 from looking at it which is fine for me. Especially at this stage of my modelling rebirth. I put Liverpool v Newcastle on my phone to watch as background noise (that’s football/soccer to those not in the know) Liverpool being my team. So in the 2 hours the match was on for I opened the bags, pawed over the kit, decided I was doing the box top scheme of Chattanooga Choo Choo, started snipping away at the pieces and before you know it the fuselage side walls are in place on both sides and all cockpit parts prepped for primer and paint. My old self would probably still be opening bags and looking at parts wondering what I could add or what needed Resin replacements. Also managed to win an eBay auction for the Accurate Minatures/Italeri B-25C\D. Now I’d been hankering over a glass nose HKM B-25 for so long they went out of production so I jumped on this one. A good day so far.
  10. 6 points
    It could be both, even on the same aircraft. Check out the hard-edged camo on the rudder and the very diffused soft edge on the tailplane/elevator of this Spit. Also note the completely different shades of Ocean Gray, much darker on the tailplane itself as opposed to the lighter shade seen on the elevator and rudder. As always, there are no absolutes when it comes to markings, you can find an exception to every hard and fast "rule" that's out there. Just look for the best, crispiest period reference photos you can, study them closely (which I find to be a hobby in and of itself) and try to recreate that on your model.
  11. 5 points
    SB20

    Reno Mustang

    Engine is basically together. Ignore the black firewall, it'll be white soon enough. Also added the gratuitous "concept" shot.
  12. 5 points
    sandbagger

    Sopwith 'Swallow 1:32 scale

    Hi all, A couple more details. The inspection window in the upper surface of the wing, for the aileron pulley and cable. Also seen is the wing centre joint and head padding on the trailing edge of the wing centre section. Finally the wheels (not weathered yet), Mike
  13. 4 points
    Neo

    1/24th Trumpeter BF-109

    Thanks you saved me from being the second person to post in my post MOre progress Next up the cockpit the call out is RLM66, since im using Humbrol, the closet match i found was #27 Ip was painted and i use Testor window maker to make the lenses the side walls where a bit nude so i added the oxygen hose and the blue hoses(not sure what they are for) using soldering wire while paint was drying i started assembling the wings and added the weld seam on the scoop i had cut the original barrels and installed the Master ones witch are beauties, but they have a huge flaw, they are too short! i pullled the oold barrels (thank god i never throw anything away) mesured the missing lenght, then cut the and merged them together Next step installing the cockpit
  14. 4 points
    Hi All! With the engine, cockpit and fuselage halves done, there´s only one thing left to do. It´s time getting the fuselage together! But, before that, there´s actually one, last thing to do on the Trumpy Hellcat. As we all know by now, the fuselage Is a bit ”fat” , but the Hellcat ain´t fat, It´s a lean, mean cat. The fuselage should be more of a triangular shape, sides should be ”slab”-shaped and the back should be more of a razor-back. You can see that I have sanded down the sides on the fuselage formers to a more correct shape (as much as I dared to). I also had to shave off a lot of plastic (2-3mm in total) from the top as they now overlapped quite a bit, to be able to close the top seam properly. A very simple fix that takes about 10min to do, but the model looks so much better now! Unfortunatly I forgot to take any pictures, sorry. Everything fitted as it should, excellent, even if I had to apply a bit of force in places. The new Resin wheels from BarracudaCast done; A small gap in front of the cockpit that I filled with some plasticard Test fitting of the cowl, now the prop is at a more correct distance from the cowl. Trumpeters R2800 is a kit in itself and a very good one too, but it is about 2mm too long between the cylinder rows, thus the propeller also will sit too far from the cowl. With this engine I have built six of these now, I have learnt that If I shave off 2mm of plastic between the cylinder banks, the props will sit correctly. We are getting close… More to come soon! Stefan
  15. 4 points
    red baron

    P 51 D REVELL

    hello all , my last kit , another mustang .... (sorry ) : voila voila
  16. 4 points
    Old Dog

    I have a confession to make.

    I find that the older I get the less inclined I am to go crazy with detailing and after market. I haven't finished a 1/32 kit in a couple of years as I have been plugging through a bunch of unfinished 1/48scale kits. Relatively few people ever see my collection in person and most who do wouldn't know the difference if the wings were on upside down, so detailing a hard to see location is mostly wasted. Yes, I know it's there but... I have a lot of kits in my stash that I really want to see built in what is left of my time on earth and spending crazy hours on a kit for details that aren't noticeable once in the display cabinet won't get me there. If built mostly out of box is heresy then so be it. I open kits that I bought several years ago and find the box stuffed with all sorts of after market and say to myself "What was I thinking" ? To me it's more fun to accomplish the goal of seeing a kit I've wanted for years complete and in the case more satisfying than spending countless hours super detailing. I still love seeing what some of the artists on this site accomplish and admire their work, it's just not for me.
  17. 4 points
    So, the Aeromarine build has reached a major milestone... Maybe it doesn't look of much but I guarantee you it has been one of those moments, where I wasn't sure if all the work has been worth it and the parts would all fit together and line up correctly. Getting the engine mounts and the scratched struts to fit together with the upper wing. The instrument panel is in place... The radiators for the Liberty engines. Still the oil tanks aren't in place. A lot of pipes is also needed, but it's getting there... Cheers: Kent
  18. 3 points
    This aircraft’s operational history is particularly poignant for me since so much of it took place in the skies above the place that I’ve called home for most of my life, the south coast of Dorset. Warmwell is a tiny village with a fighter airfield adjacent, which was just 15 minutes away from my house. The village’s churchyard has a dozen or so beautifully-tended graves from wartime RAF fatalities. Sadly no trace remains now of the airfield, gravel extraction has claimed it.
  19. 3 points
    LSP_K2

    I have a confession to make.

    I have had a similar problem the last few years;... start many, finish few. With any luck at all, I'll be picking up a few kits today at our local (annual) contest, perhaps I'll finish one of them. And I too am an LSP addict. It's one of the few places I check into when I get up, and one of the last I check before going to bed.
  20. 3 points
    LSP_Kevin

    I have a confession to make.

    Gaz has it, Ade. The important thing is that you've found a way to rekindle your interest in the hobby, and get fun out of it again. And if you're still around and sharing your work here, even better! Kev
  21. 2 points
    sandbagger

    Barker's Sopwith Camel 1:32 scale

    Hi all, It's done, so I thought you might like to see my 16th 1:32 scale build - The Sopwith F1 ‘Camel’. This model represents the Sopwith F1 ‘Camel’, Serial No.B6313 (later modified version), as flown by Major William George ‘Billy’ Barker, CO of No.139 Squadron, RAF, based at Villaverla, Italy during August 1918. This model depicts the later version of B6313, when field modifications were carried out to introduce four cooling slots in the engine cowl, linen covering removed from the centre section of the upper wing and cockpit decking sides reduced or removed. Modified or corrected: Cockpit: ‘Barracuda Studios’ Wicker Seat and cushion (BR32332). ‘HGW Models’ Sopwith Camel seat belts (132590). Copper micro-tubes for fuel supply to engine, main and auxiliary fuel tanks, fuel contents indicator and fuel tank pressurization. Brass micro-tubes for a pipe 4-way union, pipe connectors and fuel filter. Lead wire for gun trigger cables and engine ‘blip’ switch. Rigging wires with turnbuckles for cockpit side frame, under shield and floor bracing. Flight control cables with turnbuckles for ailerons, rudder, elevator and tail skid. Micro-tube for throttle control linkage. External after market and additions: ‘Blackdog Models’ RFC Fighter Pilot 14-18 No.2 (F32014) ‘Copper State Models’ RFC Mechanic (F32-0026). ‘Proper Plane’ wood propeller - Lang type (WP004). ‘Copper State Model’ Tools and Cans set (AE32-005). ‘Aviattic’ linen effect decal - Clear Doped Linen (ATT32094). ‘Aviattic’ linen effect decal - PC12 ‘Light’ RFC/RAF (ATT32092). ‘Xtradecal’ Parallel Stripes (White - XPS2 and Black - XPS1). Various ‘Albion Alloy’ Micro-tube (Brass or Nickel Silver). ‘Steelon’ Mono-Filament 0.12mm diameter. ‘Stroft GTM’ Silicon-PTFE tempered monofil (Blue/Grey 0.08mm diameter). ‘RB Motion’ 0.51mm Aluminium hexagonal nuts (1279-A). ‘EZ Line’ white (heavy). ‘Polak’ grass mat (Wild Meadow (4706). ‘Inperspextive’ made acrylic display case. Brushed silver, black printed - information plaques. As usual I've created a downloadable build log in Adobe PDF format, for those who might want to refer to it for reference or build details. It contains full step by step descriptions of the model build, its modifications/changes and is also supported with illustrations and reference photographs and information. If viewed in Adobe Reader, each build log has book marked chapters/headings for easier navigation through the log. My model website has the gallery page, so to view any model, go to the gallery and select it. If it has a PDF build log, it will be available to download using the 'PDF' icon on that models photo's page. The gallery will scroll through the various photographs for any particular model selected for viewing. http://igavh2.xara.hosting Mike
  22. 2 points
    ringleheim

    Micro Sol over dried decals?

    Ryan, I would dip a Q-tip in the red label Micro Sol/Set stuff (can't remember which is which, the red is hotter), and then gently squeeze the bud with my fingers so it's not absolutely dripping...then give it a firm push several times on the dial face decals. Forget about it for a half hour or so and let it dry. Repeat several times. Another idea: if the decal just won't sit down, give it a tiny pin pick with the finest pin point you can find. It doesn't take much! It will help get the setting solution under the decal. As that dries, it creates a vacuum and will suck that sucker down onto the dial. At least I think that is how this stuff works. But in general, no, there should be no problem using decal setting solutions many times over many days on the same decal. I've never had a problem with that.
  23. 2 points
    Mel

    Franz Stigler and Charles Brown

    It looks incredible
  24. 2 points
    Thanks! If I could offer you only one piece of advice, it would be to use this reference site for details on the Tomcat, in this case a "D". It is exactly what you need when modifying and creating panel lines. Of note is the panel line detail at the back around the horizontal stabilizers and exhaust, which few modelers get right. F-14D "Christine" Restoration I also note that you are contemplating using the Tamiya F-16 exhaust nozzles, just like I did. I did so, because there really wasn't any other good GE F110 exhaust nozzles available at that time. You are much better off with the Aires set you already have. They are more accurate and detailed, while the Tamiya ones are a bit too small, just like the Wolfpack conversion set. The other thing that still comes to mind is all the raised panel line detail that needs to be removed and re-scribed at the rear. Although time consuming, it's not really all that hard to do. I lightly scored a panel line beside each raised one, sanded the raised one off, then deepened the scored panel line while aligning them all up. The panel lines on the horizontal stabilizers should be sanded off too, but only slightly. They are real, but barely noticeable on the real deal. Good luck. With the great aftermarket stuff you have already and what I've seen of your work so far, I just know that this will turn out terrific! Cheers, Chuck
  25. 2 points
    AlanG

    Best Hurricane and Stuka in 1/48?

    Depends on how much you gave a flying doo dar about it really. Personally i still think it looks like a Ju87 and it was a great kit to build.
  26. 2 points
    Jean-Michel

    P-61 nose

    Thx for your answer. I continue my researches. I found diverses types of nose and their paint. I just started a complete inventory of all P61 built. I have pictures for 10% of them for the moment... Some YP61 had a complete transparent radome monted on a frame. You see clearly the radar in it ! Many P61A had a translucent paint coated "Inside" the radome (source : Squadron Signal In action). You see the silhouette of the radar Inside. The radome looks grey or cream, his lower part is generaly painted in a more dense paint (white, grey) and the frame that's support the radome has the color of the body of the aricrat (Olive/Neutral Grey or Black). Most of P61 have a complete black painted nose, with a visible frame on the aft and under part of the nose (where the radar could'nt "see"). This is the model of nose we have in the Hobby Boss kit (witch is too thick). I found P61A with short noses, smoothed, without the frame ; the nose is in one part. The smoothed nose seems to come with the A10 series. On many noses, the paint cracks in front part in circular pattern, looking like a structural panel, but I dont think it's a panel. And, the long nose for the P61B. In one part, with an access panel on each side on aft. A picture taken from above shows a third access panel on top. I found a P61B (s/n 43-8275) that seems to have a short nose... Still working on it.
  27. 2 points
    Ali62

    Airfix decal booboo?

    Having looked at your pictures I think you are pushing the boundaries of making too many assumptions that there is a side window under the open canopy, just my thoughts there is too much glare and enlarging the picture does not help. As a little bit of further information I am looking to produce some decal options and some conversion and detail sets for the Hellcat, and some of these include points raised just in the few posts above. I do not want to divulge too much information just yet, hope to in the next 2-3 weeks have some further details. (Just in case you do not know me and or my products, you can find me at aerocraftmodels.com) i already have some undercarriage and tyre options for the Hellcat. Ali
  28. 2 points
    While I am writing this update I notice that it has been a month since I posted last. Many things happened but not stuff that would make a photo interesting. Meanwhile I have decided to put all weaponry, hardpoints and other things together (except landing gear) and get everything primed. this required a lot of sanding, filling and sometimes swearing. Boring job but in the end it would make the priming effort much more efficient. quick overview By the primer it is very easy to see imperfections that still need work, but now also Revell's nice surface structure is visible much easier. The canopy has been closed and blended in with the fuselage: Next step is to paint the whole thing black and to fill all panels with irregular clouds of white paint. this way some of this contrast will show through when I apply the final layer of grey, giving my Super Hornet a faded and used look. At least that is the theory!
  29. 2 points
    Sounds like it's going great Alex! I, and I'm sure many others, are looking forward to seeing the results of your hard work. I've decided to take a different track. As I said in my last post, the concept for my E and F models (which will be built someway off in the future) was to come up with a reasonable compromise between reality and the HK parts. As many have done before me, I was heading down the track of "everything wrong with the HK kit." Instead of fighting it, I decided on a new approach...... As noted earlier in the build, I had already removed this section... I began to think to myself, "Why go to all the trouble of completely redesigning the nose, thereby having to redo everything in the nose and cockpit too?" Yes, I've had to do that on my C as the fuselage is shorter, but if I could use the nose transparency and even the kit windows and nose and cockpit floors etc, it would save me an awful lot of time redoing parts which you pay a lot for, and aren't really that bad to begin with. My new concept being to establish the kit contours along the part separated above, then blend in a new cockpit windscreen, instrument panel, #3 bulkhead and have in run from behind the top turret, forward to the nose piece. Essentially, this will hopefully be a "drop fit" of sorts to facilitate a pretty straight forward conversion. The lower half of the nose below the centreline will remain unchanged.... So how do I do that? Well remember the modelling genius Paul Budzik? He has a very good video out about using Hydrocal to "cast" fuselage profiles for bulkheads, rather than use a not very accurate contour guage, so that's what I did... On the fuselage side I hadn't cut up yet, I established the "cut line" using electrical tape. I then set up the hydrocal directly onto the fuselage, hoping like hell I could remove it later without breaking it.... Turns out this stuff is absolutely amazing and captures even rivet detail on the skin AND amazingly didn't crack into a million pieces when I gently prized it off! I then very carefully sanded and removed the material back to the line and voila! A perfect replication of the HK fuselage contours! With this captured, I'll start from scratch drawing up a new nose that hopefully captures the "essence" of the nose, but using the kit's dimensions. Sound simple? We'll soon see! Cheers, Craig
  30. 2 points
    red baron

    P 51 D REVELL

  31. 2 points
    Kendzior

    PZL.43A | Mirage Hobby 1:48

    Tchaika is standing on her legs, ready for the decals. Best regards Hubert
  32. 1 point
    Phantom2

    Grumman F6F-5(N) Hellcat Nightfighter

    Hi all! This is my bulld for this GB, a Grumman F6F-5(N) Hellcat from Trumpeter: Lots and lots of virgin plastic in the well-filled, sturdy box…. To be continued… Cheers! Stefan
  33. 1 point
  34. 1 point
    I totally agree with Chuck, the Prime Portal site with Christine, along with the DACO book were very helpful to me when I did my 1/18th scale F-14B conversion. I will revisit both when I start my 1/18th scale F-14D conversion as well. Steve "TOMCATS FOREVER, BABY...!"
  35. 1 point
    Looking GREAT! So many great paint schemes for the Ki-43. I just finished a 1/32 Oscar of my own. Will be posting pics as soon as I get some decent weather for photography. I look forward to seeing you finish! Thanks for posting, John
  36. 1 point
    Cheetah11

    Mi-24 in Angola

    Sean brilliant modeling. The fading and streaking looks so convincing. But where is the history installment? Nick
  37. 1 point
    I am currently working on the Tamiya Mk I, I used masks for the camouflage I personally prefer a crisp consistent look for RAF style camo. I can't say it is right, but in scale it is hard to get the look the way I want without a good mask. In 1/32 I think I might try for an effect that produces a softer edge, maybe put the mask on a buffer so it is not flat on the model surface. However I still would mask. My freehand gets too inconsistent and does not look right. On another note, I followed Tamiya's recommended paint mix of 5 parts OD to 1 part dark green and found it far too OD. I went back over it this morning with some faded green oil paint using dot technique to shift the tone a bit from olive.
  38. 1 point
    Jennings Heilig

    Airfix decal booboo?

    Carl Brown's "Paper Doll" was an early -5 and did have the rear quarter window. Carl Brown was one of my professors at Embry-Riddle, and I've built his airplane about three or four times in the past 40 years.
  39. 1 point
    nmayhew

    Revell FW-190F8

    really nice overall look i like the chipping / pencil (whatever) worn effects on the wing roots where crew would climb on; maybe a little overdone on wing leading edge (I don't have pics of F-8s to hand to verify), but either way they look nice presumably the drop tank is to be weathered? sorry if this is up next etc - it looks very clean compared to what's above it! i hope to make this bird one day and when i do I hope it comes out as good looking as this one!
  40. 1 point
    Thanks for watching Mates. So here we go with the engine: As you can see, it's not bad. However, some improvements will be necessary, did consider a resin replacement from Vector only for a while, but no, I'm sure it will look decent after it is painted and the ignition cables are installed. Some more care is required as regards the engine wall - it is too wide, I think for something around two mm - on the other hand, the shape of it matches the fuselage so well, that I decided to cut it into halves and thus make it narrower by these two mm. I also cut off the engine mount, it will help determine the right place for its installation, after the engine wall is narrower. Most of the interior and engine bits are now ready for the primer. Only the pilot seat needs yet to be slightly reworked and detailed, before it is primed and painted. A copy of 1:32nd scale plans is also ready for riveting the wings and tailplanes. Best Hubert
  41. 1 point
    MikeMaben

    Revell FW-190F8

    Looks good from here Denzil
  42. 1 point
    MikeMaben

    Thank you !

    Hang in there Paul
  43. 1 point
    Out2gtcha

    Make the others jealous

    Ohhhhh that is very nice! I am quite jealous of that one indeed. Ever since they came out, Ive wanted one of Breitlings Cockpit B50s: Unfortunately 4-5k is just way out of my realistic budget for a watch. So for now Ill have to look at yours! Dang, sorry to hear that Thierry. My sisters home was robbed that way. NOT a good feeling it leaves you with in the aftermath.
  44. 1 point
    The instrument panel, attached to the glare shield, is really good too and no doubt derived from the Hasegawa IP on the left. The Kitty Hawk IP on the right? Meh… The instructions don’t tell you what the heck to do with it and the kit even supplies a big IP decal. I have no idea what you’d do with it, because it will never fit this piece of raised plastic. Experts will note that the IP’s do not have the later RWR radar warning instrumentation. I don’t care. But would the Black Box resin cockpit fit the Kitty Hawk kit?? Eyeballing it for several hours, I decided that it had a very good chance. I have a Love-Hate relationship with resin cockpits and here’s the thing I hate the most. You are better to cut off a bit too much and shim it later than leave it too deep, which could stress the plastic. Next, you need to cut off the tabs on the side of the fuselage, which are amongst a moonscape of pin marks. Good thing they will all be covered later! After cutting off these parts including the rod antenna that isn’t needed and after LOTS of dry fitting and trimming, the side walls were glued into place. The fit isn’t perfect for obvious reasons and while the scalloped tabs on the top of the sill are on the resin parts, they don’t sit high enough to see them from the outside. The fix, which also covers the sidewall join is to use the kit PE brass, trimmed to fit some of the resin detail. Again, after lots of sanding and dry fitting, the cockpit slips into place as a dry fit. Note that the joins with the sidewalls will tighten up when glued permanently. Those fuse box thingies on the shelf behind the seat are just placed there to see if they cover any gaps on the sides. They do. The rear fit is pretty darn good considering this cockpit is made for the Hasegawa kit and I did not need to trim any of the top. With the front IP and glareshield dry fit, I wanted to see what the windscreen will cover. Compared to pics of the real deal, the fit is fantastic. Again, note that everything is just dry fit with plastic shims in place. Note the detail within the canopy hook slots, provided by the resin sidewalls. So there you have it. The Black Box F-5E resin cockpit not only fits the Kitty Hawk kit, but the detail is superb and the instrument panel blows the kit one away. Next up, I will try to fix some of the panels on the sides before I paint the fuselage walls. The lack of an AOA vane on the starboard side, which would fit into the wrong square panel rather than an oval one at the top, is first on the list. Thankfully, the Hasegawa kit has an AOA replacement! Cheers, Chuck
  45. 1 point
    My expectation for a P-51B kit is that it should, at a minimum, accurately replicate the basic shapes of the P-51B. Trumpy's kit does not. If you're ok with that, great. Have fun. That's what the hobby is about.
  46. 1 point
    Hi Brad! Yes, the Aires Cockpit and wheelbay WILL foul each other! You have to sand the wheelbay roof paper thin and eventually cut about 5mm from the front of the cockpit floor (and sand the floor very thin too), to get it all in place, but It can be done! You´ll get a Malcom Hood (sort of....) in the "Ding-Hao" kit too, that´s the one I built. I also used; Eduard seatbelts and Instrumentpanel, Master brass barrels, Mastercasters Wheels, Quickboost Landing gear doors, propeller blades and exhausts, a spinner from the Dragon kit and decals from Kits-world, Dragon and the spares box (Stars´n´Bars). But I got my Shangri-La! Good Luck! Cheers! Stefan
  47. 1 point
    Artful69

    The best 1/32 BF 109 is...

    109's ... E-1 ... Eduard is your only bet ... Which is ok, because apart from the cowl fit (easily fixed with a couple of tabs and a little patience) and the wing slats (again not super difficult), there's nothing super noticeably wrong. E-3 - E-7 ... Cyber Hobby is the clear winner - because it's the most accurate ... but especially with the level of detail and fit/finish in the box ... Eduard is not too far behind ... Trumpeter has some shape issues (not anything to get overly dramatic about, really) - BUT the kit has a lot of detail and the fit is excellent. F-2 - F-4 ... Hasegawa is your kit ... If you want it someway accurate it shape ... Trumpeter also make an F and while (as with all their 109 kits) it will fit together well and has plenty of detail, it also more closely resembles a G-2!! G-2 - G-14 ... Hasegawa is the most popular choice here again - it isn't without its shape issues, but most tend to think that what is there is either acceptable to leave alone or easier to fix. Trumpeter make them all except the G-4 and G-14 (as of writing), again with some nice detail and excellent fit - and while shape errors are to be found in all kits - a lot of negativity can be found expressed towards the errors Trumpeter has made with theirs. Revell has more recently released a G-6 ... The most positive element for this kit is the pricing and the nice detail ... although there have been some questions raised on the engineering of some parts - and some rather obvious shape errors. Most of these are a relatively easy fix with a little help from your AM friends. Interestingly, Revells 'Erla' G-10 is the only game in town - but there are those detractors that are critical that Revell didn't capture the shape of the Erla front end correctly. Again ... AM seems to be absolutely everywhere for G types (including a corrected front end for the Revell Erla G-10) ... No one company has one that is near enough to 'spot on' ... Personally I hope Tamiya jumps in to solve all my wishes at some point! - A guy can dream! K-4 ... Hasagawa is the closest - in shape at least. Trumpeter make one - with the usual pluses and minuses listed above. Rog
  48. 1 point
    Kendzior

    PZL.43A | Mirage Hobby 1:48

    Thanks, Gents! The major part of the paint job is done Used Hataka's dark khaki from the "orange" line (just a perfect paint, definitely its quality is on par with Gunze and Tamiya) and Italeri's red. Best regards Hubert
  49. 1 point
    Kendzior

    PZL.43A | Mirage Hobby 1:48

    Hi, All As I mentioned in my earlier post, decided to add the rivets. Used my RB's tool, which I consider among the best available (tried also Trumpeter's, but it sucks). Didn't want to overdo the effect, so added only minimal pressure during riveting, so that the lines of rivets are delicate, barely visible, but I think it looks alright in this scale. Have also preshaded the whole model in preparation for a painting stage, which I hope to start soon. Going to use the Hataka's orange line set for Polish WWII and pre-war aircraft. Stay tuned, best regards Hubert
  50. 1 point
    Kendzior

    PZL.43A | Mirage Hobby 1:48

    Six months ... went quickly like it was six days. Added some PE details from Aber, glued the engine cover in place (fit is tight) and starting to finish the interior. Best regards Hubert
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