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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/18/2019 in Posts

  1. 35 points

    Hasegawa A6M5c Type 52

    Finale: Build thread here:
  2. 24 points

    F-105D Polish Glider Trumpeter 1:32

    Something with a Polish accent this time. F-105D Polish Glider Set: Trumpeter 1:32 scale, model made as always straight from the box. The model is not simple to build.
  3. 23 points
    Hi folks been a while - it's got to a really tough bit of the build... that is really interesting & a bit worrying Kevin ... I guess I will just have to see what happens - the etch is nickel silver so i guess they may react one day - fingers crossed I get lucky so, what's been happening... I got the cockpit pod assembled in a jig and got it in the airframe... ..the external sidewalls of the fuselage have also been added & faired in.. ..I wanted to get the rear window area sorted so I started by making a plug for vacforming but once I had a go with my usual dismal success at vacforming PETG (I get distortion etc) I realised the curves are not compound really so I just bent some sheet in boing water and made a slit along the top rear edge so I could pinch it in a bit to get the upper profile.. ..the windows were then set out and the covering removed - I had an etched template I did that matches the framing I also had done as these are really difficult to do freehand.. ..also made the inner skins and the front former which were painted black on the outside & green on the inside.. ..then added to the interior (carefully!) - the seam doesn't matter as it will be covered, and the little metal brace at the back is so far down the fuselage it cannot be seen.. ..there are some gubbins on the roof of this area so these were made up in metal & plastic and wired up.. ..then as I was about to add the assembly and fair it all in, I thought I had better get the front windshield fuselage area done as if there is any sanding, all the dust will get in the rear cockpit and I will never get it out.. ..I had drawings - you can see the windshield drops down each side of the upper curve of the fuselage and actually the armoured glass panel goes right through this area.. ..I made up templates as there is so much three dimensional geometry going on it is really (and I mean really) difficult to fabricate.. ..one shows where the IP coaming is in relation to the windsheild, the long one is just the overall upper profile with a vertical where the rear of the front windshield is.. ..I made up many more templates and plugs for moulding the windshield & coaming - I also spent days trying to figure out why things were not lining up before I realised the top of the fuselage was very lop-sided so the half-round template is to correct that.. ..one of the coaming vacforms - this is wrong but each tester gets me closer... one thing I am struggling with is on many cockpit pics the panel does not look set back very far, but every factory drawing has it set quite deep - it has to be deep as that is where the panel goes in the cockpit pod, but it is a bit of optical trickery I am struggling with.. ..so some overall shots of the mock-up windshield and the rear glazed area - once I get the plug for the windshield I will probably just plunge mould PETG panels in boiling water as this completely preserves the optical clarity and assemble individual panels to make it up.. lots and lots of fettling & thinking to be done in this bit... ..back when I have some meaningful progress TTFN Peter
  4. 19 points

    Australian War Memorial

    I visited the Australian War Memorial in Canberra yesterday, my first duty was to buy some poppies to place against some lost aircrew from 467 and 463 squadrons RAAF, killed in action on 3 March 45 along with my father’s friend Max Venton. I got into conversation with Keryn, a staff member and the long and short of it was that she invited me to lay a wreath at the closing ceremony at 5 o’clock. Each day a fallen hero is remembered and their biography read out, yesterday by a lady corporal from the Army, then wreaths are laid followed by the Last Post. I felt incredibly honoured and very emotional, not to mention a bit nervous! I dedicated the wreath to all the crews from 467 and 463 squadrons who paid the ultimate sacrifice. Lest we forget:
  5. 14 points
    A few months ago I began working on detailed drawings for a number of ordnance items, as well as all new drawings for an F/A-18. The drawings are based off of personal photos, measurements, drawings and technical information from Boeing and Navair. This past week I completed the drawings for the SUU-62 center line pylon, SUU-63 wing pylon and the BRU-32 bomb rack. Out of curiosity, I decided to pull out a pylon from one of my Academy Hornets and the difference was a bit more than I expected. There are several modelers that have and will continue to build the kit as it comes out of the box, which is perfectly acceptable! However, there are also several modelers that like to know this type of stuff, then decide on their own if correcting the parts is worth it. This is just a general FYI in case you fall into the latter category. Obviously, the orange outline in the kit pylon. The yellow outline, as well as the completed pylon are based off of measurements of the real item.
  6. 14 points
    OK, so I guess many of you, especially from the States, already have had this 'experience'. But being a bit sidelined here in Scandinavia, getting a close encounter with a real living 4 engine bomber, is a rare treat. On friday, B-17G 'Sally B' flew in from Duxford to be part of this years Danish Airshow and of course I had to come and meet 'her'. Please bear with me, I just had to share this truly awesome experience! Engine startup, wow what a sound! Nice atmosphere: A group of reenactors with Jeep's in front of 'Sally B'. Fun fact: The preservation society keeping 'Sally B' in the air is headed by danish woman named 'Elly'- Ellinor Sallingboe, wife of late aviator Ted White. In 1979 Elly Sallingboe and Ted White formed B-17 Preservation to operate and raise funds to keep the last re- maining B-17 in the UK flying as the USAAF WW II Memorial Flight. My favorite 'girls' - Miss Pick Up & Sally B 'Sally B rolling in from a very nice late evening airshow. Sally B Cheers: Kent
  7. 12 points

    Bristol Beaufighter

    Still working on the Beaufighter. The interieur is finished. Or I am finished with it which is closer to the truth. Made the observers seat and some instruments. The ammo boxes are covered with thissue soaked in white glue. I saw pictures of zipped ammo boxes which allowed me to get an easy escape from a potentional big problem. Tossed in some lines and cables ad voila that should do the trick. 110_6242 by Rick Martens, on Flickr 110_6244 by Rick Martens, on Flickr 110_6243 by Rick Martens, on Flickr 110_6248 by Rick Martens, on Flickr Now I most focus on the engines. They look ok but as far as I know the exhausts came together in a collective ring in the front of the cowling and from there on to the main exhaust. I have no idea how to replicate that now but time will tell I guess. Also some brake lines on the landing gear and after that time for paint. Due to some construction work in our house I am not able to airbrush, hopefully in October everything will be done so I can start throwing paint around. Hope you like it, sorry for the lousy pictures. Rick.
  8. 11 points

    1/24 Airfix F6F-5 Hellcat

    Thanks, perhaps you could contact Airfix and get them to send cash - that would be great I wasn’t a Hellcat fan either, I just got the kit as a sample - but it’s totally grown on me, I’ve really enjoyed it. I didn’t fancy the dark blue finish either but it looks great on this size model. The stressed skin really gives the uniform finish some interest! I got the masks today from Top Notch and have just finished painting the markings. They are great and really easy to use as there’s only one colour to mask. Guy In progress!
  9. 10 points
    So, the Aeromarine build has reached a major milestone... Maybe it doesn't look of much but I guarantee you it has been one of those moments, where I wasn't sure if all the work has been worth it and the parts would all fit together and line up correctly. Getting the engine mounts and the scratched struts to fit together with the upper wing. The instrument panel is in place... The radiators for the Liberty engines. Still the oil tanks aren't in place. A lot of pipes is also needed, but it's getting there... Cheers: Kent
  10. 10 points
    Thanks for watching Mates. So here we go with the engine: As you can see, it's not bad. However, some improvements will be necessary, did consider a resin replacement from Vector only for a while, but no, I'm sure it will look decent after it is painted and the ignition cables are installed. Some more care is required as regards the engine wall - it is too wide, I think for something around two mm - on the other hand, the shape of it matches the fuselage so well, that I decided to cut it into halves and thus make it narrower by these two mm. I also cut off the engine mount, it will help determine the right place for its installation, after the engine wall is narrower. Most of the interior and engine bits are now ready for the primer. Only the pilot seat needs yet to be slightly reworked and detailed, before it is primed and painted. A copy of 1:32nd scale plans is also ready for riveting the wings and tailplanes. Best Hubert
  11. 10 points
    So back from holiday to find my Alley Cat conversion waiying for me, on first looks it all looks very nicely cast with no flaws in a light cream resin. Spent a little time this weekend cleaning up the nose parts for a test fit on the fuselage, first up was to cut the Eduard fuselage in readiness. No going back now so on with cleaning up the resin nose section. and together in readyness for test fitting with the fuselage. and a test fit to the fuselage. L Looks like a pretty good fit which is a relief so back to the cockpit conversion work but also need to start having a look at the wing conversion work as well. Regards. Andy
  12. 10 points
    The speed build has not been that speedy of late due to some personal issues but I am pushing through! I had a decal disaster with the large wing crosses but Eric G came through with some custom masks which worked out great!! Thanks Eric!! I then gave the model a wash with Mig neutral wash then applied the camouflage overspray using Wingnuts recommended mix of 50/50 flat varnish and XF 65. I will let the pictures do the talking from here! Thanks for looking in as always!!
  13. 9 points

    New kit releases

    In keeping with the current trend of companies announcing kits after deciding to start designing the CAD , AFTER THEY HAVE COMPLETED THE LAST 2 KITS THEY ANNOUNCED 5 YEARS AGO , and companies generally announcing vapourware, i thought i would announce the new kits my company will be releasing, after i form the company, which will require me winning 5 million quid on the lottery.. 1 year after i win the lottery and form my new company i will release in 1/24 Sea Fury Swordfish Corsair In 1/32, Invader marauder Stirling anyway, something for you to look forward too, ................they should be out sometime before a few of the current in development kits.......
  14. 9 points
    hello all, made an other platform this time for the warninglights, just under the radardome the disks to make the warninglights, thickness 0,5 mm radius 2x5mm, 6x4mm, 1x3mm, 1x1mm, 2 of the 4mm are glued onto each other this is the end result making of the watertight doors, cut 2 sheets of plastic 0,5mm in thickness, 40mm x 20mm and 38mm x 18mm, draw some round cornersin the corners roughly cut of the corners and sand , one side sanded first glue the smaller one, on top of that glue the larger door, it will gave the impression the door is off the wall, a piece of strip is rounded , this will be the hinges the base for the hinges will be glued upright, 4 spreus are cut, these will come against the base 4 small dots are made by punch and die set , these will represent the hinge shaft the small dots glued onto the hinge door handle and gutter is cut from L-sprue door grip is made, a piece of fine sprue which is bent to shape the result with flagbag above it, the flagbag is made a few days ago last photo is this piece on the LSM enjoy, Rammstein
  15. 9 points
    Rick K

    Special Hobby Tempest V

    While the gloss cures I'll work on the Prop. Roy 's Prop Assembly Jig is brilliant on many levels. The measure for 4' yellow tip is accurate. To assist in masking the tip I extended the tip color break just beyond the blade outline. I primed each blade with Gunze 1500 Black then applied a shot of light grey (to decrease yellow paint build up) on the tip area followed by yellow. After paint cure I placed each prop on the jig and carefully placed tape at the 4" mark. Each blade gets a coat of MRP77 NATO Black. Mask removed...all good. Interior of back plate gets a shot of Alclad116 Semi-Matt aluminum. For me I wanted just a peek of unpainted metal at root of prop blade. Is it accurate? Not sure. I'll get a nice color break from the prop hub and blade. Using 15 minute epoxy i set the blade in position and carefully adjust according to the jig. I let complete cure before I move on to next blade. The prop spinner got painted with MRP255 Black Night Camouflage. This gives a nice contrast between the prop spinner and blades. After near complete epoxy cure I slip on the prop spinner to double check alignment. All four blades mounted and cured the prop hub is carefully glued in place. The prop spinner easily fits on the back plate after all blades glued. Test fit of complete prop assembly. You can see the contrast black between spinner and blades. Pardon the dust. Look at prop root and you can see the aluminum color inside of back plate.
  16. 8 points

    Needed Getaway

    I took a personal vacation and went backpacking in New Hampshire for 4 days. Here are a couple photos from a Mountain known as West Bond. It was brutally hard but an amazing trip. I took my first multi day solo backpacking trip. It was increadibly hard country but I really enjoyed most of it. The middle section on the second and third day was unpleasant at times as it was up and down with a lot of boulders. In the end it was really worth and I think after I have time to forget how hard it was I am going to want to go back for more.
  17. 8 points
    Thanks for the interest Gent's, but don't worry, it's just that I wanted to finish the Arado diorama for Kevin and the skeletal Fokker before AROS in three weeks time. Then I will be back full time on the Aeromarine, in fact I can't wait to get back at it! Cheers: Kent
  18. 8 points
    I'm using Hasegawa's fuselage since the dihedral angle is a bit low so I donated the Revell wings and after some cirugy for the landing gears finally it worked, Cockpit is almost done, needs some touches up here and there, aires resin with Airscale instrument decals were used, fuselage rivets are also done although not showing in all these pics yet, an Erla model wearing their usual factory camo with sawteeth on the wings and round mottling on the fuselage, also looks like it has been extra mottled in the field. Recently I acquired some wood 109 relics which will be using as reference for the colors 74/75/76 , here is the link thread if you are interested in checking it out. Cheers source: http://theprofilepaintshop.blogspot.com/2013/10/chosing-correct-wingpattern-for-bf109g-6.html
  19. 7 points

    Forgotten War Mustang

    As mentioned previously, I've got the Barracuda resin upgrade set, which provides very nicely detailed SCR-522 radio and battery. Alas the battery isn't needed since I've got the Tamiya IFF set in it's place. If I decide to show the engined, I'll probably use the Barracuda battery, if not, I'll toss it into the spares box. Here's a couple of pics to show how it's going to look with both units dry fitted into place. Still need to add additional wiring to both the radio and IFF set. After that, I'll be taking a crack at scratchbuilding the additional radio gear.
  20. 7 points
    Hi people ! This is my next project , “The Duke” I’ll be using this Tamiya 1/32 scale very well know kit , a classic , that in my opinion could have some update since it debut , for example , the first generation design of the main landing gear wheels , a “ redesign “ of the cockpit .. but it is just a point of view … My objective in this work will be to hone my skills in weathering technics , this is why I choose this specific jet . .. some colleagues on the net have done amazing work, as a result there are very realistic models .. so , cutting the crap, let's go into the job.. My references .. almost all pictures that I use as reference for this project came from http://www.carrierbuilders.net At first , some pictures of the real guy The Duke project .. The kit .. Tamiya 1/32 model After markets , so far .. the cockpit the usual ... cutting some corners, sanding some edges, correcting some fit defects .. about resin sets and photetch . fitting the pieces each in its proper place. I will not paint the original surface from the resin set , so... PS.. not finished yet , but, so far so good ... The Duke is rolling ... BKR Baby!! to be continue...
  21. 7 points

    Sopwith 'Swallow 1:32 scale

    Hi all, I'm currently working on the internal rigging. Here's the flight controls consisting 'Gaspatch' 1:48th scale turnbuckles (Type A and C), 0.4 mm diameter Nickel-Silver tube and 'Stroft' 0.08 mm diameter mono-filament. The rudder bar was drill with 0.2 mm diameter holes to secure the four rudder lines using 0.125 mm diameter copper wire. The elevator pulleys were also drilled through to accept the elevator line. A short piece of tube was secured to the control column to act as the attachment for the elevator forward cables. The floor under the pilots foot boards has cross-bracing added. Only the ailerons control run is still to fit, but can't be until the fuselage is closed up, due to the way the cable is routed. Next up is the cross-bracing to the cockpit side frames. Mike
  22. 6 points
    It could be both, even on the same aircraft. Check out the hard-edged camo on the rudder and the very diffused soft edge on the tailplane/elevator of this Spit. Also note the completely different shades of Ocean Gray, much darker on the tailplane itself as opposed to the lighter shade seen on the elevator and rudder. As always, there are no absolutes when it comes to markings, you can find an exception to every hard and fast "rule" that's out there. Just look for the best, crispiest period reference photos you can, study them closely (which I find to be a hobby in and of itself) and try to recreate that on your model.
  23. 6 points

    HKM September announcement??

    I've built quite a few ZM kits and met the "old man" and talked to him via his sons on quite a few occasions. Their passion for the hobby is second to none and their models are very nice indeed. However, facts bare out that they are in many aspects a bit over engineered with some of their features getting in the way of the build itself. I also just finished one of the nicest, best fitting kits I've finished in a long time, an HKM Do-335. It was as accurate in shape as the ZM offering from a non SME perspective and fit about as well as any kit I've assembled. I've also built the HKM B-25 as well as their Meteor for a client. They were all great builds and I would hardly call any of them over simplified or cheap.
  24. 6 points

    Spitfire Mk IXc Weekend Edition

    Hi all, After Lope's Hope P-40N dragged on for months, I needed a true Mojo kit. This was it! This is the weekend edition Spitfire from Eduard. It build up wonderfully right from the box. The only complaint is that I had no seat belts of any kind (so I posed the canopy closed). There were a lot of fiddly little parts...but everything fit together like a Swiss watch. I must say it was about 8 weeks of model building joy. Rock on Eduard! It got entered in the IPMS Nationals last weekend but the competition was fierce. It was my first use of Mission Models paint. Their primer is awesome and it will be "my boy" from now on. The spinner was painted with Model Master Acryl. My secret formula for that is 50% Future. Sprays great and cures hard as rock! OK, indulge me in one more pose of "Lope's Hope"...
  25. 6 points

    Forgotten War Mustang

    Shot the interior sidewalls with a coat of Tamiya X-22 gloss (this stuff is great, I'll never bother with Future again) and started applying the cockpit decals. For those who might be intimidated by a hundred or so microscopic decals like these, don't be! All I use is a set of locking needle-nose tweezers (critical for this type of work) and microset / sol. The decals go on great, even over the lumps and bumps present in the cockpit. To be honest, after using these decals on my d"Dark Blue Killer" F4U-1D and now the Mustang, I will be hard-pressed to go back to another kit that Barracuda doesn't offer these decals for. The really add that much to making a realistic looking cockpit. Far as I know, the only other kits they currently offer cockpit decals for are the Spitfire and Mosquito, so I guess my next build will be one of those. Anyway, here are a few shots of my current progress. They definitely help break up the monoton-ish black. I think things will be looking even better once I add the last plastic bits, dullcoate the assembly and then do my final weathering. We'll see..... Thanks for looking and for all the great feedback!
  26. 6 points
    Rick K

    Special Hobby Tempest V

    National markings, sn and codes painted. Time to apply gloss. I've tried many gloss varnishes and I'm frequently trying others. Thing is I always keep coming back to Tamiya x22 gloss. I mix 1:1 ratio with Gunze Mr. Leveling Thinner (MLT). The results are always consistent. I also get to use my new Creos Procon Boy PS290 .5mm airbrush with fan tip. This is my new full coverage primer and varnish weapon. Love the nice wide spray pattern and great coverage. Was not sure about using a trigger airbrush. For full coverage this is the bees knees. Gloss applied for stencil decal work. Look forward to cut and place over 60 of these little fellas. While the gloss cures I'll work on other parts and bits.
  27. 6 points
    hello all, Juggernut I will post how I made it, hopefully you will benefit from it. I do not have any photo reference how I made the vegitable locker, but I do have photo's regarding build main mast. into place on vehicle deck main mast dry fitted with radar on top, radar is by Italeri from the PT conversion set I made the yardarm , main mast in the back, with a working platform in between the eyes in the yardarm are made with a drill, insert a thin wire and than drill thickness of the drill is 0.9mm, this will be also the diametre of the eye, cut to lenght and glue. The making of the platform is straight forward, draw 2 circles on a piece of sheet, cut out and sand, drill a hole for the mast, a piece of strip is glued in the center resembling a support and a piece of sheet is glued on the side. the platform is glued in place, then the yardarm, this is how it looks regards, Rammstein
  28. 6 points
    Thanks Terry, You know between this and the Desert Rat, I'm not sure who'll be finished first the way I'm going! Anyway, back home after 6 weeks in the States, I've found some time finally to get some runs on the board with the C..... First up was the rudder pedals and centre pedestal, followed by the permanent fixing of the two rear seats in the cockpit. I really like the green I ended up with Then, in a change of direction I decided to get done something I've been procrastinating about for a while - the nose windows. I covered the interior of the nose section with putty in an attempt to replicate the soundproofing felt. How successful that will be remains to be seen, but it has made the walls quite thick. I drew up some frames in Rhino and printed them on the Photon; still have a huge amount to learn about resin printing! Once cleaned up, each will form the inside border for the window. On the outside, the windows will be oversize acrylic which will be sanded and shaped, then the final window dimensions will be depicted by the aluminium skin. Takes a lot of grinding and test fitting to set each one as they are bevelled to allow support of the acrylic pieces..... Then fixed in place with epoxy. On the last photo you can see how the support will work so my clear bits don't fall in More of that, then hopefully some colour and fitting out of the nose section to come soon! Cheers, Craig
  29. 6 points

    The next WNW kit..? 3 wishes...

    You guys and your giant planes! I'll take this:
  30. 5 points

    Batman is human too...-1/24

    First but not last Batmobile in my little collection. It's a modification of toy. Batman is an addition to one of AMT models, The rest from scratch. Painting as usual, Tamiya, Gunze, Vallejo. Accessories is eduard and what else was lying around. Weathering is mainly Tamiya and Mig.
  31. 5 points
    Brett M

    Forgotten War Mustang

    Still looking sharp John. The interior is progressing nicely on this build. And thanks for including the details on the different upgrades that were performed to the -51, it's good learning. (Same Brett M from ARC, figured I'm hunting LSP for Corsair info, may as well finally join...after browsing for years!)
  32. 5 points
    Made a start on the lower wing conversion this evening, radiators removed and replaced with resin blanks. A really nice fit with minimal filler required, so far so good. Regards. Andy
  33. 5 points

    F-4C Phantom II - Tamiya 1/32

    Hi, I am LSP member couple months already and this is first time I am uploading my work here. I got this kit from my wife back in 2000 and since then it stayed in stash as I was away from hobby for the same time. This is Tamiya's kit representing F-4C of 497th TFS based in Ubon, Thailand around 1967. Aircraft was originally deployed to Vietnam in Navy standard colors Light Gull Grey FS16440 and White FS17875. After some time original grey Phantoms were repainted in local paintshops with SEA camouflage on top, while bottom remained in original Navy White FS17875. As painting conditions were not ideal, Phantoms were prone to heavy chipping and there were original large insignias, corogard and letters showing through SEA camouflage colors. I used following extras during build: Avionix cockpit (nightmare to fit...) GT Resin: Seamless intakes, center 600 gal tank, outer USAF pylons Eduard: etched interior set, exhaust, masks, Sidewinders, Sparrows, TER, MER Videoaviation: BLU-27 Napalm fIre bombs MB MK.5 seats were in stash for 17 years and I do not remember what make are they... I used original Tamiya insignias, all letters and night owl are homemade masks... Paints: Mr Paint colors and Flory washes Thanks and regards,
  34. 5 points
    WEAPONS Eduard 32129 - $19.95 The Eduard set consists of instruction, one small, and one large fret. Both frets are made from .015mm brass. Parts are included for the flare pods, rocket pod details, and bomb fins (about 50 parts). As stated before, the inclusion of flare pods in this set might seem advantageous, however Part includes their flare pods in the Exterior set. Part S35-020 - $16.35 The Part set includes instructions 2 large frets and one slightly smaller fret, all made from .11mm brass. The parts include rocket pod details, K2P32M/K-4U missile rails, bomb vanes and gun pod details (about 150 parts). The Comparison Okay, not much to be said here. Part wins. Hands down. There's just no comparing. If you don't count the flare pods Eduard has maybe 30 parts for ALL the weapons. Part has 50 parts just for the rocket pods. Plus they have Swatter launch rails that just blow the kits launchers away. Part wins on part count, details, and price. How Eduard justifies $20 for their set is just ridiculous.
  35. 5 points

    Revell Spitfire FRIXc MK716 - pink recon

    Thanks to @KiwiZac I'm redesigning the F24 camera. The new CAD model should be ready for 3D printing at the end of the week. Until then I felt the need to start construction work on the brassin cockpit. Although it's nicely detailed there's still a lot of room for improvements. For example the frame on the cockpit floor features nice rivets but is one solid resin piece. So I started removing unnecessary structure: Moving to the front (a little bit blurry in the picture above) is a pipe running across the floor. Two problems here: the flash underneath and the fact that it doesnt't fit the sidewalls. Quick fix: 0.2mm copper wire. Moving aft there are the two bulkheads with their ditinctive lightening holes - all solid from eduard. After drilling an endless amount of holes here they are: I managed to crack the right one which is incredibly fragile. Not sure if I can live with it, or if I need to get a replacement from eduard. Back to the front waits a serious problem. While trying to install the plumbing to the IP frame I discovered that the brassin part is awfully narrow. The comparison with Tamiya (left) and Revell (right) highlichts the issue. Doing some measurements with my trusty calipers revealed that the Revell one is closest to the drawings in the Monforten book. Eduard narrowed their frame down to fit inside the fuselage with the resin floor and sidewalls in place. I'm not sure what to do now. Leaving the brassin part as is, installing thinner wire for the plumbing or crafting the lower Revell part to the brassin part (an awful amount of surgery needed)? Cheers Joachim
  36. 5 points
    Late variant Spitfire Mk. 22 or 24! Rick
  37. 5 points
    What's the name of the planet you're from again? Kev
  38. 5 points
    All our jets got that dirty in AirWing FIVE. We were busy, but I do remember no-fly, all hand scrub down days. My first scrubdown was me and the Skipper on one particular jet in shorts, cranial and eye protection with scrub pads as the brown shirt kept telling us we missed a spot. A spotty, dirty, touched up bird meant it flew a lot, and birds that flew a lot were better with higher mission capability rates than the hangar queens that were clean. Just adding a little context. Collin VS-21/CVW-5 ‘95-‘99
  39. 5 points

    Guess what? Another Lanc

    Upgrading the bomb bay.
  40. 5 points
    red Dog

    Spitfire MkIX 1/24 349 sqn

    Thanks for the vote of confidence Brian I'm back on the bench. Actually I never was away because I had the chance to initiate a kid to aircrfat modelling during the holidays We built a 1/48 F4U-7 Corsair together in two weeks and I think/hope he might be hooked To progress with the Mk IX conversion, I needed first to progress with the Tamiya spitfire model i'm building as well. I wanted to check the position of the intake under the engine. It seems that Heritage model positionning is quite matching the tamiya design which is good enough for me to proceed. I decided to address the insane gap with milliput from inside the engine cowling. After sqeezing the milliput in, I pressed the intake from outside into its position and smoothed the milliput from outside with wet fingers and paintbrushes It's ugly but who cares? The aft end of the intake is cut at a right angle but the kit part will be mated and sanded to shape More putty (squadron), more sanding .. you all know the drill Lots of details are being lost but to be honest most of the rivets needs to be smoothed down or even completely regraved anyway.
  41. 5 points
    Yup - that's us Carl - well spotted! As some around here will know I'm a bit of a 'petrol head' - with a particular passion for all things Lotus - so being at the 70th Birthday at the Hethel factory (an old wartime B-24 base) was a bit special. We're also working on a possible feature on the car in another magazine next year. For any non-Evo readers - this is the bit Carl spotted: The piece mentions my excitement at having the car signed by Elisa Artioli - after whom the Elise was named when launched - all grown up now and a real enthusiast: Brilliant day - topped off with driving around the Lotus test track with 700 other Lotus cars: And, for F1 fans, Classic Team Lotus had a number of their famous cars out on track during the day - wonderful sights and sounds: Colin mentioned Wheeler Dealers - that was filmed in 2008 - same month we did a feature in Classic and Sportscar. Filmed at Kemble, that's me driving and not Mike Brewer (from 48 seconds). And photo-shoot for Classic and Sportscar: And the pair together - need to get the Esprit back on the road next year - she's been sat in garage last few years... Have fun! Iain
  42. 4 points

    Hobby Boss 1/32 B-24D arrives

    Well, after a two-month wait it finally arrived. Appears to be pretty much the same kit as the J, with the exception of not having that abomination of a front turret. Was hoping HB might correct those wings that were apparently designed by someone with no knowledge of aerodynamics, but no such luck. Nevertheless, it's still a pretty good kit and will no doubt build up into a spectacular model. Has anyone else received theirs yet, and if so, what do you think of it?
  43. 4 points

    What will be Airfix's next 1:24?

    a bit too early for this but what about a Beaufighter? (I would like to see it as new 1:32 tool as well)
  44. 4 points

    1/32 Italeri Mirage IIIE

    A bit more refining to do, but managed to modify a set of intakes to Mirage 50 standard (the ones on the right). Should come in handy for other Mirage III variants Cheers
  45. 4 points

    What's New - 24 August 2019

    Howdy folks, I've just published the latest What's New update. Enjoy! Kev
  46. 4 points

    MH 60 Academy SeaHawk. 1/35 scale.

    Repainted filters. Mesh was too dark.
  47. 4 points
    Tony T

    New kit releases

    I'm at the same stage of development with my own future company called "hope to buy before you die" At the forefront is a family of J.35 Drakens, Su-15 Flagons and E E Lightnings. And each will come with a free Scotch single malt miniature, cigar and bite size Mars bar. Tony
  48. 4 points

    RAAF FAC OV-10A the back seater.

    Thanks Zacto! I have done the left side as well, just haven’t shown it in the pics yet. Will be sure to add the handhold. Thanks for pointing it out. I went and met Graham today whilst I was in Noosa, Queensland visiting family. I brought along the model to show him the work in progress and talk about his time flying the machine in Vietnam. I had an excellent time and will be back to show him the completed model as soon as it’s done. Graham sent me a pic of the flight line at Cu Chi. I clearly shows the Broncos parked with the elevators full up as per being in the locked position. The servo tab on the trailing edge is also deflected. The elevator. In this pic, I have removed the tabs that are provided to position the elevator on the horizontal stabiliser. I scored the servo tab hinge line using the back of a no.11 blade at an angle. Attached to the horizontal stab with the servo tab deflected. The servo tab moves automatically in an opposite direction to the control surface to assist with stick loads.
  49. 4 points

    1/32 P-40F Pumphrey Pin up

    In way, the kit is done, just the landing lights and small details to finish. So before posting to the RFI the fully finished images, here's the kit wheels down. I painted the scalloped quarters in interior green to give it a little color. Now just need to do a good photography session for this!
  50. 4 points
    I've got the black primer down and I'm ready for some black basing action. You can see the Alclad primer mixed with leveling thinner goes down nice and smooth. I use a very thin coat so I don't fill the small details and just enough for the black basing. I rarely have lifting issues using Mr. Color and MRP paints and using the Alclad brings it down to zero. I've got a start on some of the weapons. I have Two Bob's decals for the Aim-9's and the Aim-7's which look really nice. However, I was glutting for punishment so I decided to paint the stripes on. I painted the stripe colors and masked them with various widths of tape before painting them white. It turned out fairly well but I'm not sure I like the way the front section of the Aim-9's turned out. I still have to paint the seeker heads and the rear fin metal parts before I apply the decals. The Aim-9's are from Zacto and are fantastic. The small parts can be a bit fiddly but that goes with the fine details. I think they are a must as I haven't found any that are correct or are as detailed. The sparrows are from the kit and are pretty good. I bought Two Bob's decals since the kit markings are lacking. Here is what I have so far. I also worked on the wheels. I have they Brassin wheels that are very nice but they are smaller than the kit wheels and I have no idea which are correct. I also have the wheels that came with the Rhino intakes and they appear to be a copy of the kit wheels. I'm going to paint both for comparison but looking at photos, the Rhino/kit wheels look closer to the real thing. However, the tire part of the wheel is significantly more detailed with the Brassin. The Brassin wheels had a defect but it was fairly easy to correct. Here are the Brassin wheels painted up, just need some weathering. I really appreciate all the nice comments fellas, it keeps a guy motivated.
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