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This is my recently completed build of the Revell 1/32 He-162A-2 model. It is a very nice kit with decent detail and very good fit. I dressed it up a bit with some aftermarket, most notably the Aires Cockpit and Wheel Bay set. All of the major markings are painted using custom cut masks. The yellow squadron insignia is from the Cutting Edge decal sheet. The full build can be found at:

What am I thinking...

Thanks Matt! I'll try to finish up the Flying Tiger soon! The finished photos have been posted...

Things have been a little slow the last few days. Both of my printers decided to throw a tantrum, only got one of them going today. So here are the latest prints. Total length is at 19 inches. There is a hole designed into the main fuselage parts. It is a great aid to get everything lined up correctly. Plastic tube and wooden dowel provide great strength. And yes, a little side project can be seen in the background. An RF-84F, also from CDtrader. Dan

One more pic ....... left side attached .......

Mr Clumsy Fingers dropped his H&S Infinity CR+ a couple of days ago, to make matters worse, the needle cap wasn’t fitted. End result, one knackered needle and nozzle! Replacement costs £65.00 plus p&p……ouch! I recalled Jamie Haggo recently doing a review of an airbrush with an unpronounceable name, a bit of research led me to this: Jamie was impressed with its build quality, very much on the lines of the Infinity, and the fineness of line that could be achieved with its 0.2mm nozzle. Jadlam had them in stock for, yep…..£65.00! Free postage. Hmmm, new airbrush or replacement parts….. This arrived within 24 hours of ordering: Shiny: And a partial disassembly: It feels and looks good, but will it deliver? More later!

Hi everyone, Today I’m happy to show you my Kitty Hawk P-39. I decided to go with a pretty colorful paint scheme, depicting a VVS P-39 flown by Colonel Sobolev of the 21st Guards Fighter Aviation Regiment (21 GIAP) in May 1943. This Kitty Hawk kit is definitely not the easiest one to build. I had to stay really focused throughout the assembly to avoid mistakes, and even then I almost got caught out by the nose landing gear. All the paints are from MRP. The six red-and-black stars and the serial number were painted using masks that I designed and cut with my Silhouette Cameo. A huge thank you to my friends Gilles Peysson, Jean-Marc "Jimvit," and Alexandre "AlexGRD" for all their help, especially with the decals, masks, and additional reference photos of this aircraft. Special thanks as well to @LSP_Kevin for his fantastic WIP thread, which was a tremendous help during the build. And I can’t forget @Thunnus, who was a huge inspiration with his salt weathering technique, as well as the detailed explanations he takes the time to share about this rather tricky process. I hope you’ll enjoy my P-39, and I’m looking forward to hearing your thoughts and comments on this rather unusual warbird. And here’s the link to my P-39 WIP thread. And now, on to the photos!

Decals on.

HI all, This one didn't make it as an in progress build log, but I did showcase the work on my YT channel: Here's the TL;DR version.. No, I didn't straighten the wings. I wasn't prepared to gamble with them re-bending some time in the future (ive heard horror stories!) So its something I'll live with SD

After a first glance into the box: -a legacy fighter w/o bombs/fuel tanks can be made, internal guns and ETC are still provided as they are integrated on common sprues. -the injection quality is, from my eyes, better than with the 2019 A-1/A-2 (#03875) boxing. The engraved panel lines are finer and sharper. The previous offering had some few flash in the corners of the sprue frames (not on the parts). This is also reduced. The parts themselves are free from flash, no sinkmarks. -clear parts are in perfect condition. -the decal sheet (Cartograf, glossy surface) is a class of its own. For C-Revell the way is free for a scaled down 1/48 version. IBG seemingly will not do it and no hints of an Eduard project. The "Das Werk" TS1 should be on the way, keeping the schedule.

Progress has been good these last couple of days and the fuselage is now together, if not complete. The cockpit sides were the next part to be finished. There's not a lot of parts to be added to these as they come out of the box with most of the detail is molded in. The right side has three parts to go in one of which is the undercarriage pump to which I've added two hydraulic lines made from 0.3mm wire which will need to be fed through holes in the instrument panel frame. The right side has a throttle quadrant, trim wheel and radio selector which I'd forgotten to add when I took this picture. The rest is paint and decals which give quite a busy look. I drilled out the lightening holes prior to paint. I've also tried to add a bit of dirt, but the camera flash has leached that out of this picture. Here's the sides as they attach to the cockpit floor. Apologies for the darkness of these pictures, but they were taken when the sun was streaming in through the window. too much contrast to edit the pics. The cockpit sides can now be glued to the floor. I pulled them in very tight as misalignment will cause major problems when putting the fuselage together. After this dried for a couple of hours, the assembly was then mounted in the fuselage. I started by gluing the cockpit into the left fuselage half. Then the right side fuselage went on, after putting the very long prop shaft into place. Again, this needs very tight clamping or tape as any gaps, particularly in the top of the fuselage join behind the cockpit will cause gaps when putting the fuselage spine in place. I used 18mm tape behind the cockpit, and ten mm tape in the nose. I could say that the next job will be to start on the wings, but I've already done that. The wheel wells were assembled and glued in place pretty much on the first day I started this model, so that I could paint them along with the fuselage innards, and the top wing insides have also been painted. I've left the gun heater tubes in place behind the radiator, as I think this plane had them. This is based on the instructions which indicate that they should be left in situ on all but the very first Spitfires. In this kit, only the first of the three variants offered require the absence of gun heating. But today I also assembled the tail plane, which is very easy as it's only two pieces. These will be cleaned up tomorrow, then put aside to be added to the model after the wings have been installed. So from here, I'll assemble those "guns", which I thought were a bit unnecessarily fiddly. That's all part of the next update, together with finishing off the fuselage. Cheers, Michael

Is this contagious? I am in. I was able to obtain picture of Rob in his natural habitat. Cheers Martin

1/32 insanity I reckon!

I'd prefer one from Kotare - who with GWH are the most likely to produce one - no internals, something easily put together, and reasonably priced.

Finally finished my Airfix 1/48 Spitfire Mk.XIV "G-FIRE", first model finished in 8 years! The one-time owner of this aeroplane Spencer Flack sadly lost his life not too far from me racing his 1959 BRM at a historic race meet at Phillip Island near Melbourne back in 2002. So tragically there is an Aussie connection to the former owner of "G-FIRE". Flack also owned a Sea Fury "G-FURY" and a Hunter "G-HUNT" as well. "Mr Colour" acrylic paints used. Eduard plus some CMK parts used in the cockpit. Wheels were either CMK or Quickboost - can't remember. The phone flash made the red cooler. It's more red irl.

McNuggets. Hullo again. I will start off today's blog with the tail-light, made from a white (plastic) rhinestone, 2mm dia. I bought them on glue-down strips for sparkling-up a guitar strap, and these are leftovers. I plucked one out, super-glued it into place, and then ensconced it in a bead of super-glue to make it globe-shaped. Can-A-Peas. The big job, that took forever, was twice fabricating the turret in the rear canopy. When I cut it away from the overhang above it, I had to manufacture more plexiglass onto the back of it - first with super-glue, and later adding more thickness with 5 minute clear epoxy. The first pic below shows the basic result, which I was very happy with, but polishing revealed some opaque sections that couldn't be rescued, as well as lots of bubbles in the epoxy. The polished result can be seen in the comparison photo down the page. I decided I couldn't live with it so set about making an entirely new dome - cast in a mold from the existing one. I filled a wine bottle lid with Baking Powder and pressed the dome into it. Then I doused the depression in about half a tube of super-glue, and let it sink in overnight and set. Never having done this before I thought it might be sensible to coat that with a membrane that peels away easily, so I applied a thin layer of Mr Masking Sol. Then like before I poured in super-glue - about six layers over two days, to create the clear dome. It was still very thin so I again added a thick layer of clear epoxy. This time I blasted the wet epoxy with a little butane blow torch, because the interweb says that's the best way to get the bubbles out. I must have done it wrong because in the end result I still have bubbles, but thankfully much less than before. The next day I cut the mold away to reveal what was a reasonably well formed dome shape. But my dream of an easy peel away was in vain. The Baking Powder set as hard as granite, and the green Mr Masking Sol dried like marble. With my tiny squirrel dental kit I ground away for what seemed like aeons. At some juncture I was listening to Bob Dylan's 'Blood On The Tracks' and noticed that my 30,000RPM grinding tool put me in the same key as 'Simple Twist Of Fate', and that by varying pressure on the job I could play along with Bob - "La la la la la..." Later when I regained consciousness, I could see that the part was more or less the right size and shape. After cutting away the old dome, the (not actually) rotating base was a wreck, so I whipped up a new one out of that old soda can. This part was 2-ply and 3mm in height. I scored a panel-line along the upper-middle, to suggest the top bit might rotate independently of the bottom bit. Then I wrapped it around the shaft of a hammer to get the curve. Trying to align these parts by hand felt way too clumsy so I made a horizontal levelling jig out of 3mm polycarbonate. I wanted to repeat that trick to mount the dome, but its base was too crooked from casting in the mold so I was back to aligning by eye. I scratched parallel lines into the black jig, so that I could reference the dome's rear edge. Super-glueing it to the metal, I did one side at a time - first starboard, then take my dog for a walk, then port. Then I made the gun-support frame, incorporating a wrinkled shroud like the real ones which I think are leather. I chose masking tape (with the adhesive wiped off) for the material - sandwiching some between frame and turret. With the gun-support pushed into place, I glued it to the masking tape using Krystal Klear. It is not glued to the canopy, so will still tilt to accommodate the canopy's final position. The bit of gold stainless on the base's underside is there as a brace because over days and days of me squeezing the sides together I must have snapped it in twain about six times. The transparency of the clear part is still a bit sheisersplashen, but no longer an absolute fail, and I think the weathering will be able to provide it with a winter context. The overall finish now looks like its been through a punch-up, so will need to be tidied up, and ultimately the two halves glued back together... And the Pipework needs some attention to make it more presentable. Pipework? What? It turns out the Stuka's Canopy Frames aren't necessarily Frames. The Stuka designers took a stack of plexiglass and wrapped it around a bunch of pipes, then topped and tailed that with traditional frames. But somehow not just Border, but all the Kit Brands, don't seem interested in replicating the canopies that way. I felt the vibe though, so ground away the frames, re-polished, and installed pipes wherever I found them in the photos. Again here and there I've made a bit of a mess, but I think having the pipes was worth the trouble. In irksome spots I can always confect some window frost or add a dead duck. As a rule, my brass tubes are not glued onto the clear part, but actually riveted. I pre-drill 0.6mm guide-holes from the outside, and place bent and positioned 1mm brass tube on the inside, using masking tape to hold it in place. Pressing that firmly into position with my index finger, I drill down the guide-hole and into the pipe - and quite often into my index finger! I then take a length of 0.6mm brass tube, dip it in a puddle of super-glue, and shove it firmly through the guide-hole and into the pipe. The glue sets in the pipe as well as the clear part, and that's it. I slice the rivet to length using a cutting disc, and move on to the next hole. There were squillions of holes, and it took a very long time. The previous bullet-proof glass on the windscreen was a Krystal Klear disaster, so I ripped it out and started again. The real ones come with their own frame, so I made one out of 0.8mm brass tube. I sliced down the length of it with a cutting disc, and opened it wide by sliding the tip of some tweezers down the insides. Then I did a pre-fit on all four sides marking and cutting the corners with the cutting disc as I went. The only place it is glued is where the two ends meet at the bottom. I squished the whole thing flat to make the frame more square, and the finished part was fixed in place with dabs of super-glue off the end of a toothpick. The windscreen is the only canopette where I have used 0.8mm pipe frames with 0.4mm rivets. The handles for pilot chin-ups are extensions of the uppermost rivets, which protrude all the way through the pipes and out the other side. These 0.4mm tubes have been bent around with tweezers, and their lower ends super-glued to the cross-pipe. The windscreen also houses a prominent window-defrosting pipe, which turned out to be easier positioned on the dashboard. It is made of 2mm brass tube. Finally: here is all of it en-masse. Again, needs clean up, re-polishing, painting, weathering etc. My working rationale all the way through this process was not to arrive here with finished canopies, but simply to get them constructed thus without having to buy another kit! I'm happy with it, and will have to think now carefully about how I want to proceed. I do like the pipe though, and consider it a bit of an unexpected revelation. It seems to accentuate the Stuka's natural dramatic ugliness and, when I compare it to the earlier canopy photos, I think adds some brutality to this model's overall feel. Because I'm making this procedure up as I'm going along, I'm going to leave all the little bitsies off these canopae (handles, radio mast, rear view mirror, et al) until the last possible moment, lest they step under my wheels and become deaded. Bestest! Beaver.

Photos of Miller & Warner's F-4B (150477 WS-1) are thin on the ground due to it only joining the squadron on October 2, 1967 from Progressive Aircraft Rework at Atsugi and was subsequently downed on the 13th. However, fortunately, it appears in a couple of Criticalpast movies shot on October 9/10. Though nothing particularly unique about it, marking-wise.

My favourite V Bomber? 1:32 Victor?

Priming this one was more interesting than usual I primed with Mr Surfacer black the areas where black stripes go and I primed with Mr Surfacer white where yellow/orange stripes go. the nose is already painted with FS36270. I plan to masks the IFDF antennas but that's probably more work than if I had done it the other way arounf. After a lot of thinking about how to address the paintscheme I decided a plan of action. The tail will be painted separately. The 50/60 large numbers will be masked and painted Gunze H14 dark Orange The tiger head will be masked and painted white to provide a light colour background for the decal taken from pictures The tiger stripes will be first painted medium yellow then masked, then contoured dark yellow then masked again. I will then paint the fuselage dark grey and once dry I will shadow the numbers, decals and tiger stripes with highly thinned black at low pressure with a fine needle. Freehand as the black outlines don't have straight edge. The black stripes on the wing will be masked over the black Mr surfacer and then the area will be painted with the light fuselage grey. The tiger head on the fuselage will be masked in white and light grey and a decal will be placed on top (that one is still in development) I will work with two airbrushes, a lot of tiper stripes masks and small area by small area After the tail, the stabs, rear fuselage, wings, front fuselage and then we start again for the below surface Lots of fun ahead

Hannants also has a standard release for the kit listed as an October release. It has fewer decal options and no book. https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/EDK932012?result-token=JJv7b I think this might be the one I pick. Carl

The map and other labels have been placed on the model.

Thanks chums. I have been pondering my options, the fit is so close but out enough to potentially muck things up! I decided finally to go for the canopy open finish. So with much trepidation and a sharp scalpel, I managed to separate the windshield from the hood. I’m still using the Kotare rear section; the windshield sits nicely in the cutouts on the fuselage and, when fixed properly in place, the open hood aligns well with the runners: So I just have the gap to fill in front of the windshield, shouldn’t be too difficult nor cause much disruption with the paint.

Having just completed my 1/24 Mustang I was inspired to build another American fighter, and what better than the mighty P-47D Thunderbolt? In my stash of 1/24 kits I've got both the Kinetic Razorback version and the Vintage Fighter Series (VFS) Bubbletop variant. VFS was a small, short‑lived UK model kit business that appeared in the early 2000s and then disappeared relatively quickly. As far as I know they only produced two kits - the P-40 and P-47, both in 1/24 scale. When it ceased trading Kinetic bought the moulds for the P-47 and re-released it, hence its availability. Although this will be mostly an out-of-box build I'm not overly keen on the "Squirt II" markings for this kit and will therefore be looking at alternative markings - and probably something that was based near to where I grew up in Norfolk. So here is the box on the bench. Like the kit, it is big: And here is a little progress so far on the engine. The push rods don't quite connect in some places. I've placed the better of the two parts at the front. Also it is important to get the cylinders the right way around. The instructions will have you do it wrong. You also need to be aware that the locating tabs for each part are not in the right place. The whole rear of the engine will be rotated by 90 degrees if you are not careful. Like wise for this front ring... From the front there should be a cylinder at the six o'clock position... but this will result in the ring being misaligned. So I cut those parts off... And will fit them later once the ring is glued into position. I also built up this part rear of the engine but it is pointless really because it won't ever be seen... unless you plan to open up parts of the fuselage of course - which I don't. Overall the casting of the kit seems solid. There is virtually no flash and the sink marks are minor. The plastic itself is very tough and at times I've found that a metal file has been a better option than a sanding stick. The instructions are also problematic. Many of the port/starboard or front/rear part numbers are transposed and so these need to be taken as a guide only. Plenty of dry fitting of parts is needed before committing with glue. If I find during the build that I can remove the cowls to expose the engine then I may add further detail, otherwise I'll just add spark plug leads to the front and then close it all in. It's a start anyway. As always, thanks for looking.

Hi all, All rigging now completed. The shots below show the rigging during fitting. Twin and single flying wires. Single landing wires. Interplane incidence wires. Drag wires. Anti-drag wires. Cabane strut bracing wires. Landing gear bracing wires. Aileron control cables (upper and lower wings). Fin bracing wires. Twin rudder control cables. Elevator control cables. Left to fit are the engine exhaust pipes, landing gear wheels, propeller and wing hoops. Two more modifications to add that the kit does not supply are the pitot-static pipes and fuel tank filler cap. Then it's just the display case and of course figures, Mike

Nooo, don't want to start a bun fight, but it's got to be Barley.

It is one on CGTrader that isn't printable in its supplied form, so I have had to apply some stuff to it I had no idea about and got it by trial and error. It gives basic shapes that are a decent starting canvas but by no means can be considered as a 'kit'. I call it a '3D printed vacform' 😂😂😂

An add-on tail fillet is not too hard to build from scratch as I did in my younger days on the Revell P-51D. HERE Please note that the add-on fillet is slightly different that the regular tail of the later D version. Cheers, Quang

How much dough would you lay out?

I know that this will probably be of very limited use to most here - but we have a few diorama builders so I thought I'd just put this out there. My current project is an epic 1200mm x 600mm diorama of a V2 being unloaded at a railhead. Apart from the rocket, there's a Fries Strabokran, a Meillerwagen, a Hanomag SS100 heavy road tractor, a Henschel 33D1, a Tempo 4000 Lieferwagen, a pile of figures, scenery and railway track, plus three rail cars - two flat four-axled gondolas plus a G10 boxcar. This particular vehicle (as is virtually standard for any wooden-bodied railway vehicle more than a coupla years old) has paintwork which is in pretty tired condition. For anyone who's interested - here's how I do it. It's super-simple; Weathered wood = the best basecoat I've found is RAL7027 Sandgrau - it's not too yellow and not too brown. Mine was Lifecolor, but you can find the same shade in multiple other brands. Once dry - it's washed over with a 50/50 mix of black and dark brown (doesn't really matter which one) thinned down to around 60% thinners/40% paint; Next - give the surface a coat of gloss varnish. This is how the magic happens in the next stage. Once it's dry - apply your chosen colour (in this case Deutsche Reichsbahn RAL8012 Rotbraun) over the wood by brush, but make sure the paint you're using is a matt/flat one, and that it's thinned by around 30% using water - not with thinners. Put plenty on. Water-thinned, flat acrylic applied to a glossy surface doesn't spread out and coat properly - it 'pools' giving completely random, uneven coverage like this; Here's a zoom-in; This is just the effect we're looking for - you can see the colour of the paint, but you can also see multiple random patches of wood grinning through from underneath it. Finally - apply decals, give another wash over with an 80/20 diluted version of your black/brown muck, spray a coat of your favourite flat varnish - and you're done; I hope this might come in useful one day 🙂 Best wishes to everyone.

Definitely 55 Squadron I served with them from 1975 till the end of 82

At last, Fred's Shed's finest in glorious 1/32. I look forward to seeing this grow into a fine tribute to one of the most striking aircraft in existence. If you are in the U.K. then you should visit Elvington near York and see the finest example of a Victor K2 in working condition. I am in awe already at the prospect of seeing this project coming to life alongside the Vulcan (priority the Victor of course). Bob

In my opinion, the P47D Razorback just looks more purposeful in both its air to air configuration as well as in ground attack compared to the bubblestop. I mean, just the lines on that thing scream "Jabo!". Looking forward to the Kotare kit release and the inspiring builds that I am sure to see here! Only the best of times if you are into LSPs.

I have a set of Arthur Bentley 1/72 drawings to scale up and print out in sections to help refine the 3D bits. The intakes and wing roots will need work, but the basic shapes and proportions are pretty good. The tail span is almost that of a Spitfire! 😬😁

Who needs thinking when your instinct is obviously in the right place ? Hubert, who kept like a treasure an early 80s issue of « Scale Models » with detailed drawings of the Victor …

Well, certainly. Damn, whats going on here? First, a Hustler and now a Victor. You guys are utilizing your 3D printers to the max. Is that your own design or did you find suitable files online? Cheers Rainer

Entire line, not sure if F-80 is part of it. You can contact Alexander on this platform as well. https://vk.com/market-206801441?screen=group

TBH, I’d only be interested in a F/G/H model. Not much interest in the later versions, and I have the Hobbycraft boxing of the Trumpeter kit if I ever get the urge. I’d love to see Kotare do one. I don’t need the full engines like Tamiya or GWH would do.

I personally wouldn't want one, but I can see it would fit in with their existing range of kits. Amazing isn't it, how the wonder kits of yesteryear, staggering pieces technical achievement in their day, are now seen as not worthy of attention, EVEN, and this is the weird bit, when they still have no direct competitors subject-wise! Tamiya seriously missed the boat with the Griffon Spits, though....

Zero. Don't want one from Tamiya. They are so 'yesterday' these days with the likes of Airscale, DBMK and Kotare on the scene! 😜🤣🤣🤣🤣

I don't want a P-38 but would welcome a new tool 1:32 Tamiya kit of that perennial favourite, the Grumman Tomcat. And would pay £250 for it. Same if they wanted to wipe the floor with Redpill with a £250 F-4B. Tamiya's 1:48 Kitty and Toom are both stunning kits, just too petite. Having said that, I am buying both the Airfix Spey Toom and DBMK Scimitar this autumn, pulling me back down the cussed 1:48 scale rabbit hole! Until my wife and I undertake the dreaded but inevitable house move from the kingdom of the Dubanni to that of the Iceni, my model making is going to be mostly quarter inch to the foot, buying select 1:32 for use later — so I can wait for the Tamiya lull to pass by. The last void in Tamiya's 1:32 output lasted about a decade, 1981-1991, and we're about five years into a fresh one since the last 'new parts' repop — but looking for patterns at Tamiya is as useful as reading tealeaves. Tony

I bought one and it works like magic on most things not just on 3d printed stuff. Cheers Dennis

About $3.50 Matt

The outer surfaces of P-51 wings were primed and painted, either an OD/NG or silver from the factory.

Hey Quang, As a licensed aviation mechanic for my entire life, however not working as a mechanic, the water marks you see would never be facing an outside exposed surface as a professional structures mechanic. What you see above (P-51B) is a newly re- manufactured P-51B replica with a period P-51B data plate. The mechanic would /should simply flip the panel over and not expose these water marks. As a professional, you would/should hide the markings to a minimal / exposed facing panels. Buff or polish (mechanical removal) of the markings is also an option. High grade carnauba wax or ceramic spray removal is also another option. Spraying to fill in micro abrasions, etc. I cringe at newly remanufactured WWII aircraft as the new set of normals for us LSP'ers. Some of the He 162 being built in the salt caves at wars end adhere to these simple rules mentioned above. Then, I see brilliantly built He 162's here on LSP with water marking clearly stamped a thousand times to the exterior. I would love to see period WWII photos reversing my banter above. Great site, great people. We have a great community. My two cents worth here. Cheers.

Few more pics ....... the sidewall panels had some really weird texture on them ....... so I covered with Tamiya tape and and painted ....... compared a J or and E, the B sidewalls are pretty bare ....... always looking for better photos for the next build. Honestly, not a lot of this will be seen in the end. And yeah, I knock off the excess paint from my brush onto my hands ........

…And of course I can drape a tarpaulin over the Malcolm hood 😇

WOT? No watermark on the alclad sheets? Disappointing!

I had some good money get vaporized by some other "modelworks" stuff in the past, it was the Mirage F1. So I'm deliberately steering away from these one-man-band brands who have great potential of just... disappearing after popping they'll produce a couple dozens of kits and collecting some money. 3D printing has very positively changed our modeling lives as it offers endless possibilities of detail and full kits no one could imagine with injection kits. The bad part is, everyone can claim to have started a business with little investment. Not everyone is Paul Fisher and not every company is Jetmads or Lukgraph. They produce in large quantities, for which delayed deliveries can be understandable. But what is more important is they are also always in touch and respond to whatever asked whenever. It is like any other business in fact. Good remain, bad disappear in one way or another. I just don't like to use the word "Fraud" without having a full information as to what really happened to a guy who maybe started it with all his good intentions... but there is no way of knowing it upfront before placing money and faith in some guy you do not know on the other side of the world, unless he and his brand has a deep rooted reputation.

Arrived today.

OK guys, no need to get excited. Let us just wait for the kit(s) to be rendered in actual plastic and go from there. I am totally on the same page as Tim, we are living the dream.