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Well Kev, it’s time to hit the deck This auspicious date is perfect to announce what marks the start of the next journey for airscale. The Defiant kit is selling so the venture is a success in my eyes, meaning I will take a chance on another subject in what I dream will be a long line of new exclusively 1/32 kits The Typhoon, the brutish, powerful, hedgehopping, unrelenting powerhouse that didn't whisper death from above; it announced it with violence – especially after D-Day. I chose the car-door version, both because I think it is more atmospheric, but also because I thought the transparent parts would be easier to manufacture – bubbletops are hard and have seams…. that said, the centre section is modular so assuming there weren’t many/any other airframe changes it could be done afterwards Key with this kit is the partnership with Typhoon Legacy, where Ian Slater and team are restoring JP843 to fly. As mammoth a task as could be imagined so I wanted to help. A healthy % of the sale proceeds will go towards that. The kit will feature JP843 before her conversion to a bubbletop as one of the options. I am keen on suggestions for other options too, especially any that were in non-standard or interesting markings. I have also been working with Arthur Bentley whose drawings and CAD knowledge have really helped kick-start the project. So here is where we are at… the cockpit is virtually complete, the remaining structure about 90% done but not ‘kit ready’ and the surface detailing less than 50% ..and a few coarse test prints to check a few things.. I would anticipate another 4 -6 months of development / production and welcome any and all contributions to this thread so we, together can make this something to fill the gap in the market. We are off again Peter

It's nearly time https://airscaleprokits.co.uk/

Weathering the hull is uncharted territory My guidelines are: - I know I don't want to see much rust stains below the flotation line, which differs from the colour demarcation line - I need to find a way to discolour the hull under the flotation line. the flotation line weathering is remarkable - I would like to add a little bit of barnacles but really minimum. - I have seen different weathering on WWII pictures. Some boats are pristine, some are heavily weathered. I want to depict mine quite weathered but not like she stayed in a drydock for years. Here are some examples illustrating the above: Here's one pretty beat up above the floatation line, proving you can go overboard if you wish Discoloration of the hull below the floatation line is obvious in this dry dock picture, not an easy effect to achieve Discoloration also happens on the dark grey/blue above the floatation line as seen above This one is probably not representative because it's been out of the water for very long, but I found the moss interesting illustrating the barnacles effect I would be tempted to achieve (bit less though) I'll use only a few products for weathering the hull: Both the naval wash and steaking effect which is brown rather than grey will be used randomly together alongside the hull. Once a bit dry, it will be rubbed with a sponge for effect Salt streaks will be next. pulled vertically but more patchwork under the flotation line. These will probably disappear with further treatment, so basically just a first encounter with this product (which can be replaced with any paint well thinned or even oil paint; It's just more convenient I confess. The area just under the ballast gets a heavy grimeline which is then blended out The difference between weathered and unweathered is quite visible. I'm not too much concerned at this time because I knwo more treatment will be added later on and i'll correct what I don't like doing while testing new grounds. The model is huge but it's easy to work section by section Rust streaks are added above the flotation line with the oil brusher which is again just quite convenient. I also like to use any default in my work to simulate damage on the model. So here the plastic was scratched and I used that just like if the real boat was scratched at that same place. rather than fixing the damage it's a good way to have simulated damage random. The ongoing process rest streaks on the bow, rust paint is applied in dots, left to dry and then blended downwards with a thin bruxh controlled with more or less thinner happy with the result under the floatation line so far Next: discoloration under the floatation line and I have been thinking about how to do that for the whole week Thanks for following

Hi, my name is Ani and my dad said I could show some pictures of the magic house we built together. It took 6 weeks to finish and my dad and I worked on the house every evening when he was not working somewhere not home. My dad showed me how to use different glue to glue parts together and he helped me to glue some of the harder parts. He also showed me how to use different kinds of sanding things to smooth the wood parts so they fit better. I was sad that my magic house did not have lights like some other houses that I saw but my dad said we could make our own and he helped me put little lights in the house and garden after he drilled some holes or made little spots on the wood to fit the lights. He showed me how to use a tool to make grooves in the wood for the electric lines and then we joined the lines from the lights to the little battery packs that my dad had in one of his model parts boxes, he really has a lot of those. I am happy that the magic house turned out so nice but I am happier that my dad helped me and we had a lot of fun together. I really love my dad and we like to make things or draw together and I hope you like the pictures of the magic house.

we are off thank you everyone

Painting of major parts is done and the windows has been mounted... The hatch to the luggage compartment has been cut out Conversion of the Landing gear + scratched Bear Paws. The right side doors and the hatch for the luggage compartment will be placed in an open position... Cheers: Kent

Today's update

Tried printing out the control surfaces. Didn't print out well, wavy surfaces and a little warped. So I made them out of sheet plastic. Vertical tails installed in last pic. Dan

I will probably be shot at dawn, but managed to get my copy as well....

Hi All, We are fortunate to have Tim Biggers now casting our resins. Let me tell you how beautiful these are! Check your stash and see what you need to accurize your next build. Then, visit our site to place your order for our EagleParts here: https://www.eagle-editions.com/product-category/eagleparts-fine-cast-resin-parts-to-update-or-modify-model-kits/ Thanks in advance, Also, I continue to add Jerry Crandall's aviation library books for sale on our website. Check back often here: https://www.eagle-editions.com/product-category/collectibles/ Happy modeling, Judy Crandall Eagle Editions Ltd. LLC

I’ve put on the decals, or should I say, I’ve put on the BM decals… As for the Peddinghaus decals, well, you guys warned me, and sorry to contradict you, but they’re not just bad decals. They’re absolutely awful. The size, the shape, the thickness of the clear film, the print quality, the accuracy, nothing’s right and it all belongs straight in the trash. Actually, they do have one “quality”: they stick so badly to the model that it’s super easy to peel them off and feed them to my dog… This decal sheet is a total disaster : I only used the marking on the left side, just under the exhaust pipes, and the one on the right for the oxygen access hatch. So, I ended up making my own “decals” with the Cameo: the red triangle just behind the propeller, and the manufacturer’s data plate on the left side behind the MG 131 bulge. So there’ll be very few decals in the end, I’m missing the numbers 1 to 9 for the fuselage, the black outlines for the four foot steps, and a bunch of small stencils. I used different shades of panel liner depending on the background color, weathered the belly a bit, and added some “exhaust soot” to bring out the panel lines on the top and underside of the plane. Now I just need to spray a semi-matte coat, do a bit of chipping with a light grey pencil, and I think it’ll look pretty good.

Hi all, Here's the Wingnut Wings 1:32nd scale model of the Rumpler C.IV. The figures and refuelling cart are from 'Aviattic', but are no longer available. Rumpler C.IV, Serial No.8518/16 of Flieger-Abteilung (FA) 209 during 1917. The forum build log is here: https://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?/topic/102743-132nd-scale-rumpler-civ/ My PDF build log can be downloaded from the Build Logs page on my web site: https://mikesww1aircraftmodels.com/]https://mikesww1aircraftmodels.com/ Mike

Here's the problem with the double row riveter out of the box. I want the two wheels to rotate in unison, so I took the tool apart and used CA glue to fuse the two wheels together. It was a surprisingly fiddly affair trying to get the points on the two wheels lined up. The photo is obviously BEFORE the modification. After that fix, I was able to get on with the riveting of the upper wings. The lines I had drawn a few days ago were traced over with either the single Galaxy Tool riveter or the new double line rivet tool. Here are the riveted wings after sanding and a liberal coat of brown pastel wash. A simple tip for those of you that have the Galaxy Tool rivet tool. After gouging countless lines into the model by accident, I finally modified the tool to help prevent this. Oh, and I added shims to the outboard ends of the flaps to eliminate the gaps.

Happy days…….at last a Typhoon! Thanks Peter! Given your proximity to and association with Tangmere, one of the squadrons based there could be a contender possibly this one? Sqdn Ldr “Jacko” Holmes was a member: A small area of interest, the undercarriage doors were black with a white zig zag along the line of rivets, perhaps tape. It’s exact purpose isn’t known, perhaps anti-corrosion? And the “Z” identifier repeated on the wing leading edge is of interest. The pictures you’ve posted so far are very useful for my current build! And a reminder of an excellent recce day at Jet Age a couple of months ago:

That would be Model Expo in Melbourne, happening this weekend. I'll be there tomorrow (Saturday), and hoping to check in with the guys (Richard, presumably). Kev

Just announced, ETA 4 months. Very excited for this one! https://www.facebook.com/share/p/1CGVmNQMKU/?mibextid=wwXIfr

Managed to snaffle one, delighted in time I'll be able to build an aircraft based on the Isle of Man, where my maternal grandparents lived for a number of years, it even featured on a Manx stamp.

Back from a short holiday and returned to the bench. Matt coat is on and started adding scratches and blotches. This will take a while. Also added a lighter ocean grey under the slats.

Guy - I blush from your very kind comments. 🥰 Thank you. I think the special thing about this project is that it is fully 3D printed - a thing that was novel when I started two years ago; not as novel now! As for a collaboration with Peter - I believe I am not worthy! Peter continues to perform magic, and contributes to our hobby like few others can. I'm happy to watch. But should he want to do something with an aircraft where engineering drawings are available, my wheelhouse is taking those drawings and designing printable parts. Well John not exactly seamlessly, but I will take it. It is hard to describe the feeling when something like that happens. I have experienced it a bit too often. Ok - I just had to show you all the major digital victory which is the two form blocks for the empennage fillet fairings, designed in Rhino 7: These Rhino models would not be difficult for the real expert user. But for me, VERY difficult. You will see these at work very soon. Of course - the two enabling features of these form blocks are the surfaces and the panel edges. Now, to make good representations of the several fillet fairings in annealed .005 inch thick aluminum.

And check this out:

Happy days, I've managed grab one thankfully. I never thought Inwould get my hands on a 32nd scale Defiant but its a reality! Thank You Peter and any chance of a 32nd Mk1 Wellington now to make my life complete Regards. Andy

Used the iPhone — pew it worked! 🤩

It's live - try this link: https://www.airscaleprokits.co.uk/#!/1-32-Boulton-Paul-Defiant-Mk-1-Full-Kit/p/734529231 Iain

Thanks Troy for your message. I’ve been wrapping up the final steps. I sprayed a coat of semi-matte varnish (super important, because MRP’s matte varnish is way too flat, not great for a plane on the European theatre), then used a light grey watercolor pencil to add some wear and tear around the engine cowl, the wing roots, and on the wings. I’ve gotten used to working with a light grey pencil (instead of silver or aluminum) because it just looks more realistic in the end. Once all those little pencil marks were in place, I sealed everything with another layer of semi-matte varnish. I took off the masks on the three canopies and wrapped it all up by making and gluing the pitot tube onto the tip of the left wing.

..and finally installed. The tailwheel is also ready for installation...

Wow, this thread turned into a wish list really quickly..... I never cease to be amazed at the frequency of almost any thread to become a wish list. ⏲️

Thank you all for the motivation. It's easy to let your frustration get to you at times. Considering there's 2 drill bits stuck, im pretty happy how it sits now. Honestly its my own fault. What I learned from my last Wingnut build (Dolphin) - was to always glue the rigging on the bottom wing first. Its especially important when using this combination of line, turnbuckles and CA glue. If you make a error or use too much CA its better to be on the underside of the top wing - where its not seen. Dont know why I did it the other way around on the center section, must have thought it would have been to troublesome to get to the rigging points. Anyhow the model is completed now - so just a few pictures to catch up on progress 😊 Got the wings on and aligned! The small valve on the radiator is pretty noticeable in the instructions, but there is no part in the kit. I just added a very simplified version from stretched sprue and copper wire. Then painted the wire brass color (forgot a picture). For something different I decided to move the spare wheel to the side instead of having it stowed underneath. Think it will add more visual interest. Huge thanks to Sam for sharing the image on FB for inspiration.

I've jumped ahead in the instructions to start work on the turret. It is beautiful and I'm so impressed with Peter's replication of it. Here are the cleaned up and primed pieces. Since I've got vac form clear parts rather than injection moulded ones I realised I don't need all of the parts provided. Again, I've used Peter's Airscale cockpit decals and placards where appropriate and via reference to war time photographs. During assembly I found a mistake which I can only take to be mine rather than a fault of the kit... but for those that follow you need to ensure that there is no gap (arrowed) in the join of the lower part to the turret ring... ... I found this by accident when I did a test fit of the turret to the fuselage and realised that the turret wouldn't turn without the ammunition boxes (at the front) interfering with the sides of the fuselage. As a result, I had to sand out a lot of the detail arrowed below. Just be aware that when you come to fit this, the ammunition boxes and case collection bags (part 63) need to be absolutely perpendicular to the turret ring. Still need to fit the seat straps (which I'm struggling to figure out) and then apply an oil wash and perhaps some chipping. Now the part where I could do with some advice from more knowledgeable people than me. I've never used vac form parts before and quite frankly I'm rather anxious of screwing things up. Peter has provided the vac form on the moulds - but I'm short of confidence in cutting them, sanding them and gluing them. If anybody can pitch in with some help or suggestions here I'd be grateful. Cheers in advance and thanks for looking. (Just 2 days to go before the official launch of the 1/32 kit! )

Started in March 2022 - thinking it would be a fun and different build. Well different was definitely correct - it was maybe a bit above my skills for the time. Interior was very easy to build, but the exterior was where the real challenge were. All the issues took the fun out of the build and it went on the shelf. From time to time i would take it down - do some work - lose motivation - repeat. December I decided to complete it or trash it - no more looking at the grey half built kit. Im happy I finally managed to push it to completion! Now its a joy to watch on the shelf - a victory over the kit that beat me several times 😊 Thank you to all who motivated me to keep going with the build! With a few more ZM kits in the stash - hopefully the next one will be easier! Build log can be found here:

Good evening, I finally could finish this model after many time. I was a difficult final assembly as mainly it was painted in separate parts but it is a good model so it could be done with few trouble. I wanted to recreate a recently landed aircraft on a dirt airfield so wheels and lower side is a bit to dirty and there is a oil stain on the wheels wing. Hope you like in spite of the quality of the pics.

Just in case you are not following Reskit on Facebook, they just shared some CAD drawings of their upcoming A-7 Corsair update set: Don´t know about you but I am itching to get my hands on this and finally build an A-7E /Niels

Post a picture of any build,any scale related to D-day as a tribute to those who fought and died. This is my 1/24-25 scale scratch build PAK 40 bunker. A sight that many allied soldiers had to face.

Thank you Alan! I make my own pastel washes using pastel chalk, water and a dab of dishwashing soap. Very easy and since it is water-based, you can use it over any paint. The engine cowling has been riveted. After the riveting process is complete, I will wash all of the parts with water to get as much material out of the rivets and panel lines as possible, in preparation for painting. The rivets especially are vulnerable to being clogged with sanding dust and dried pastel wash.

The panels on the nose just did not work for me I am sure it's something I did but in the end glued it all up.The paint has started I laid 1500 grey,Tamiya Semi-black,some silver and started the yellow bands.The colors are all picked and no two from the same company

Not just a build for me. I travelled to Normandy (after touring Dieppe) in June of 2014 for the 70th anniversary. I collected sand from the beaches and made this for my desk and some more for close friends who helped with the woodworking. And of course, my Jug with D Day markings:

Mind boggling news, as Max has said already it's about time we had a decent Typhoon, like Max I am rather partial to Typhoon and Tempests and a car door one to boot. Got to thank Max for his latest build causing this to happen, I will have to build a Skua, Fulmar or Battle to spur Peter on. Cheers Dennis

Well done everybody, Defiant GB in the offing?

Got mine as well, phew. Cheers Dennis

Just ordered mine

These kits are unique and special. I ordered the new D kit so I can have a JA as well as my AJ. There are no perfect kits; well, maybe the Tamiya Corsair.

Some progress. Added the Quinta set to the cockpit. Still have to add the belts to the seats.

That would be cool! Perhaps you could put a bug in their ear[s] about a Tiffie or even a LYSANDER

I probably won't even be able to get near the table! Kev

Pieces of .010 rod added to represent welds. Coated numerous times with Tamiya cement, they just sort of melt into acceptable welds. While they look a little rough right now, once thoroughly dry and buffed with Scotch-Brite, they'll look just fine.

Some progress I can see the finish line now

I've managed to apply the side markings--a little touching up to do but I'm pretty pleased overall. After this I'll be going back and modifying the fin markings to remove the RLM 76 which didn't appear on this aircraft from the one clear photo I've come across, then adding the stylized "5" to each side of the front cowling and the "2" on the leading edge of the wings. Cheers, Tom

absolutely loving seeing this get built - what a pleasure now as for those vac parts - having done a few I can help. they are on the moulds quite deliberately as the moulds define EXACTLY the cut lines.. as seen here, the yellow line is the cut line, so hold the part down firmly and with a brand new scalpel cut into the vertical wall until you are guided by the edge to follow the line you shouldn't need to cut down into the part, just keep shaving away at the walls and it should fit well - key is no slippage so the part stays in place when much of the walls holding it there are gone ..as for fitting, paint the inside & outside of the frames first - the clear part should hold it's shape, so either use what you like or I wicked tiny bits of CA where there were touchpoints that can't be seen - just keep blowing on it so there is air circulation to avoid the CA 'white fog' as I said In am really enjoying your build, thank you for showing it Peter

I've added the overall colors at last: MRP RLM 82, RLM 71, and FS 30219, basing these choices on colorized period photos and interpretation of the few original photos I've seen: Next up will be painting the black trim around the side markings and adding the numbers on the forward wings and cowling. It's nice to see some color at last! Cheers, Tom

Colouring in next.