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So after finishing my Tamiya Corsair which had sat quietly on the SOD for about a year my attention has now turned to the F-8 again and much like th Corsair doesn't actually need much to get it over the line, so here we go again and hopefully get White 48 over the line this time! Regards. Andy

My rendition of Major Edward Giller's "The Millie G" is now complete. This was by far my most involved project with extra detailing for the engine, cockpit, landing gear bays and the MG bays. Here's a link to the build thread in the Works in Progress section: https://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?/topic/92956-132-tamiya-p-51d-15-na-mustang-the-millie-g/ Thanks for all the comments and suggestions during the build. In summary, here were the aftermarket additions to the kit: Barracuda cockpit upgrade Barracuda instrument panel Barracuda cockpit sidewalls HGW seatbelts Eduard guy bay kit (late) Barracuda P-51D tires Eduard P-51 exterior detail kit Barracuda decals + placards Eduard canopy masks Eduard engine detail kit The main paints used were Mr. Color lacquers. Now for the final photos. All of the main markings were painted except the stars and bars and tactical lettering, which were decals. The stencils from the Barracuda decals were used instead of the kit stencils. The ailerons and elevators were glued in place. The rudder and flaps are movable and do a pretty good job of staying in place. The Eduard gun bay doors is an excellent upgrade over the kit doors. The ammo belts are from the Tamiya kit. The engine covers are all removable and fit reasonably well with Tamiya's magnet system. The starboard panel just under the exhaust is a little fiddly. The weathering was a combination of oils, airbrushed Tamiya acrylics (heavily thinned) used for local effects and with sponge chipping and spatter templates. Colored pencils and pastels were also used for various effects. Mr. Color GX100 was used for gloss coats and GX114 for flat coats. Great stuff. I used Mr. Color C330 RAF Dark Green for the fuselage. And a slightly darker version for the nose checks and spinner green. The NMF paints are Mr. Color Super Metallics. The checks on the nose were painted. The drop tank fuel and pressure lines were created from 0.5mm wire. I kept the weathering on the drop tanks relatively light since often they were single use items. All of the fastener holes in the engine panel frames were drilled out. Light colored oils were used on the NMF surfaces to depict varying amounts of oxidation on the panels. Eduard's engine upgrade contains PE hose clamps for all of the main hoses and piping in the engine. They are a pain to attach and paint but look pretty snappy when complete. Also, the edges of the gunsight glass were painted Tamiya clear green to simulate the look of the thick glass plate. The aluminum paint on the wings was rendered with a combination of the Mr. Color Silver and light gray. Mr. Surfacer was used to fill the rivets and panel lines on the forward 40% of the wings. Grime and wear was depicted using a combination of Tamiya acrylics, oil paints and colored pencils. Some wear is down to the primer and some is down to the base metal. The primer toward the back of the wing is ZCY and the primer toward the front is dark gray putty colored, based on the construction process. The Eduard gun bay doors really add a lot compared to the kit doors. The Eduard doors come with a hinge at the bottom of the door for gluing it permanently in place. I wanted to be able to remove them, so I made tabs similar to the kit doors and glued them onto the Eduard doors. I also added a support rod made out of 0.3mm wire. I really like the iconic 343 FS, 55th FG markings. Chipping around the panels and doors was done with acrylic paints and colored pencils. The cockpit detail from the Barracuda kit is quite good (details are on the build thread). One note was that I changed the wiring from the radio box behind the pilot seat because the cable harness would interfere with the canopy support bracket. So I converted to a strand of speaker wire and painted it black. Thanks for following along! Comments and critiques are more than welcome. Thanks again.

So finally after 6 years I think I am calling this one finished after various trips to the SOD all self inflicted by myself not following the Tamiya instructions! Pretty happy with how things turned out in the end and especially enjoyed painting the experimental scheme applied to this airframe. Regards. Andy

My Corsair Number 15. 1/32 Tamiya model, Barracuda wheels, Quinta studio 3D cockpit decals, HGW wet transfers 232903, All colours MRP.

So a year in the making, not quite as I wanted and plenty of mistakes along the way. Hope you like it, I know I can do better. Photography needs to improve too.

"Kapitänleutnant Alfred Eick began his naval career in April 1937. Later he served for more than a year on the destroyer Hermann Beitzen, and he undertook 16 patrols in the first year of the war. In November 1940 he transferred to the U-boat force, where he accompanied U-176 on her first two patrols. In May 1943 he became commander of U-510 and received the Knights Cross on 31st March 1944. After a successful patrol in Brazilian waters, U-510 left Lorient on her second patrol assigned as one of the Monsun boats. Eick operated for a few months in the Indian Ocean before heading back in January 1945 with a load of important goods (tin, quinine, etc.) on board. After being supplied with oil southeast of Madagascar by Krvkpt. Jürgen Oesten's U-861 (who was short of fuel herself), U-510 ran out of fuel in the North Atlantic, but managed to reach the U-boat base at St. Nazaire in France at the end of April 1945 (at that time the base was still in German hands)." --Wikipedia, U-boat.Net I can only imagine how U-510 reached St. Nazaire from the North Atlantic without fuel. Rowing? Progress is a little more rapid now, and I am almost done building up the top of the fairwater: Adding those wire rails to the interior was a bit insane! Next up is the periscope housing, UZO, and other fittings. And I'll finish up this post with this photo of the Monsun Gruppe in Japan: http://monsun-uboats.blogspot.com/ Cheers, Tom

Thanks for the pictures Finn, they will be quite useful when I get to that point of the build. For now, I've still been making some small adjustments to the paint scheme. I also added the grayish-metal "Corruguard" coating to the edges of the intakes. This was a hold-over from the USN-style paint scheme these jets originally had. Some jets had this, some didn't. The ones that did eventually had it painted over. In the case of 589, the picture I've got of the starboard side of the jet shows Corruguard. The picture of the port side shows it painted over. I flipped a coin and went for the Corruguard. If nothing else, it adds a bit of visual interest. One other atypical addition was the thin red stripe right behind the radome. This was present on many of the early F-4C's. There was a reason for it but when I went to look up the information, I found that an ex-member had decided to "take his ball and go home", so many of the threads that people had contributed to and where (IMO) invaluable sources of information are now lost. The decal set I'm using had this stripe included but I think it looks better painted on. Last up - I painted the radome. The early coatings used on these units were not very durable and many weathered to a darkish gray or even revealed the underlying brown fiberglass color. Right now, my radome is just overall flat black but I'll be adding some variations to break up the overall color. With the nose cone on, she's finally starting to look like a real Phantom!

This is a valid point Quang. For those who don't know about this issue, here is how the cowling fits if the engine mount isn't moved down. It doesn't look too bad in this view, but in the next photo the problematic fit is a bit easier to see. Maybe Hasegawa based the fit on this restoration? But I believe the bottom of the cowl should actually be in line with the bottom of the fuselage. Like this: The problem may also have something to do with the shape of the fuselage where it joins the cowling. I believe it is too 'square' and should be more rounded - leaving a bigger gap around the cowl-flaps when viewed from behind. I have tried to sand the nose rounder, but beware, the plastic thins out pretty fast. Here is another shape that seems to be wrong - the rounded portion just ahead of the big louvres. I sanded it off and went with a scribed panel that looks more like this one's belly. There is a panel line that runs along the join seam on top of the forward fuselage. This caused some headaches as I'm sure many of you have experienced with the spine of a Bf-109. I used super-thin cement to glue the fuselage, and the melted join is tricky to scribe. I think it might have been better to use superglue on this portion. The dark splotches ahead of the panel are where I sanded right through the plastic. Thick cyano to the rescue. The fin fillet for the -40 is luckily included in the kit, but looks too chunky if used OOB. Some more high risk sanding to thin it out as you can see by how the light shines through the plastic! I'm sure you noticed that the rudder got chopped off. It needs some work to get it into shape, like this beautifully rebuilt one. It also takes a bit of fettling to place the fittings for the rudder bellcrank and the elevator joining-tube thingy, but it looks way better than the one-piece control surfaces. The riveting wheel is about to make a couple of revolutions... Cheers, Sean

Sorry, a bit slack on updates. I've made a bit of progress since the last post. The fuselage went together with no dramas at all, I am really quite impressed with the engineering in this kit. Then I came to the wings. The alternative wing panel is only supported part of the way round: call me Mr Cautious, but I added a little bit of thin plastic card to support it internally, checking first that it would not compromise closing the wing halves. After a suitable interval to let the wings set, they fitted to the fuselage. This took a little bit of work to get them to fit, but nothing too drastic. The main problem was avoiding a "step" at the wing-fuselage joint: a couple of clamps to align the parts did the job. (And yes, that's Lego, a very handy tool for building custom jigs.) In the meantime, the first stage of assembling the engine and its cowlings. After this lot dried I refitted the engine mount, added a little bit of filler which was needed at the wing root joints, and made a start on dealing with any seams still needing treatment. The next job to tackle was masking the canopy. The HGW seat harness I used also included a canopy mask, which is nice thin vinyl, similar to Oramask 810 or Artool Ultra Mask (in fact may even be one of those two products, I know not). The set provides internal and external masks, and fitted extremely well. As you see, outlines only are provided for the hood: HGW suggest using liquid mask to fill in, but I used Tamiya tape instead. And here's the interior framing painted: Edit: that large drip towards the rear of the canopy is liquid mask, not paint, in case you were wondering (it made me do a "double-take" when I just spotted it). That's it for now, I'll try and remember to take more frequent pics, honest ...

T-38 skin wrinkles- cool modeling challenge- P

A combination of Dragon's E-3 and Cutting Edge D-1 conversion. A long and frustrating journey involving eye surgery and a nasty case of excema on the back of my hands, it's finally finished. I was shooting for a newly constructed pre-war a/c recently delivered to a field for (secret) combat training. I just went with whatever struck my fancy but tried to keep it within the confines of what existed at that time (late '38 early '39). Critique welcome ... onward and upward. WIPlink

Second phase working on the main cockpit areas and additional work on the figures. These are Eric Jolly cockpit pieces with Quinta details. More details added to the figures and placed onto the ejector seats with additional belt details. Note I did a bit of hacking to get the pilots legs in!

Crank up the engines Finishing the engine was quite straightforward, so I didn't take photos during the progress. One litle trick: installing the fuel lines before glueing the push rods saves a lot of fiddly work. Ask me how I know And a dry fit with the cowling to check what will be visible in the end: Allthough one could build the cowling panels open, I plan not do so since you would have to get rid of the seams on the cylinders and add a ton of details behind the rear row. Next up: the cockpit and the dreaded seatbelts.

Got the dark brown splinter shade on, for the most part: Vertical stabs are just dry-fitted: Note tight wing/glove seal on pic below... that took a lot of work. I think it's possible to build an excellent Tomcat with the Tamiya kit, but you'll have to invest a huge amount of time in basic model building to get you there. Cheers, Marcel

The following photos are of my recently completed build of the 1/32 Special Hobby Hawker Tempest Mk. V "Hi-Tech2" kit. This edition includes a bunch of resin and photoetch enhancements, most notably a very detailed resin depiction of the Napier Sabre engine. I also added the Eduard photoetch brass flaps and used HGW dry transfer for the data stencils. All of the other markings were painted using custom cut masks. The aircraft depicted is JJ+F flown by David C. Fairbanks, an American credited with 15 kills, 14 of which were flying the Tempest. The complete build can be found at:

1/32 Tamiya model, Barracuda wheels, HGW wet transfers 232903, All colours MRP

I've just awoken to this terrible news, and am deeply shocked. Here is Judy's post on Facebook: My sincerest condolences to Judy and the family, and all of Jerry's friends, family, and acquaintances across the globe. Kev

Seats with homemade belts. And some ribbing inside the rear canopy. Later, Dan

She's done, better photos to follow.

Thanks for all the info on the bombs, much appreciate. In the interim I've been doing some touch up work on the paint. Part of it is to repair areas impacted by gluing the wings together and onto the fuselage. Part of it is touching up some scuffs and overspray and part of it is improving the scheme to be closer to the real thing. As I stared at the picture of 589 posted a couple of days ago, I noted some weathering and paintwork that wasn't captured in the Fundekals profiles. I made those updates, still have a few more but I'm getting every closer to the final finish. Some pictures (note - the vertical stab is just pressed in place): Some of the colors still seem a bit stark but I'm confident the weathering process will tone them down a bit. Speaking of bombs above, one of my joys is weathering these weapons. Nothing irks me more than seeing immaculate bombs hanging off a perfectly done model. For any aircraft from WW2 through the end of the cold war, the vast majority of bombs were in very poor shape (except of course the tail fin assembly, which was kept protected, for obvious reasons). Here's a nice picture of some suitably grubby M117's. That's it for now, thanks for looking.

Hi All This is the 1/32 Trumpeter MiG-29C built as a Ukrainian Air Force MiG-29S (9-13). It is loaded for a CAS mission inspired by a photograph I found online. It is impossible not to feel the impact of a war in Europe, in what feels like my own backyard - and like so many on these forums I also felt the urge to show my support. I tried to incorporate as much aftermarket stuff produced in Ukraine as I could. The Rocket Pods and Wheels are from ResKit. The paint masks are both from Foxbot and DN Models. The seat is from Quickboost and the pitot tube to replace the telegraph pole included in the kit is from Master. The exhausts are from Zacto model. The decals are a story of their own - I screwed up the first paintjob using the Foxbot masks I already had so I had to start over While waiting for the brand new released masking set to arrive from DN Models, Foxbot also announced a brand new set of decals for a digital camo MiG-29. I wrote Oleg from Foxbot if I could somehow get a set and he happily sent me one straight from Kyiv in the middle of an active warzone. That kinda makes this model special for me.. I painted the model entirely using paints from MRP - the second time also in the right order . Below in order from Dark to Light: MRP-034 Tank Grey (MRP-405 seems to be too light for the MiG-29) MRP-403 Grey MRP-402 Light Grey MRP-246 Light Arctic Grey The underside is painted with MRP 405 Blue Grey Hope you like it Niels Click the images and they will open in a larger version

Yesterday was the airshow here in town (today too), featuring the Blue Angels now flying the F/A-18E. I had an excellent vantage point next to Tac Air, thanks to a good pal, and could see the entire runway, east to west, which was awesome. Several firsts for me, as far as actual flying aircraft are concerned; Mosquito, two Hurricanes, Spitfire, F4U-4, A-4C and the F-35, all in addition to the BA Super Hornets. Aside from the loud Super Hornets, the A-4C and F-35 (flown by a female pilot) were most impressive. This is her, taxiing back to the Tac Air ramp, immediately to my left. Not the best shot, but still thought I'd post it anyway. I'm pretty well cooked from roasting in the summer sun, but it was worth every moment.

Hello all! oh really? A Bf-109? Woooow…. I know I know, this is nothing really very creative or exotic. And it’s Battle of Britain, too. But I like her anyway and this is actually my first Bf-109 I‘ve ever built. Finished some 2 years ago from eduard‘s Profi Pack and Andrea figures. best regards, Andreas

AIMS 1/32 Spitfire PR 1G conversion update Hi everyone - done a little more and next up is the plumbing. Note that as a result of Revell's top corners being missing so that their thick canopy can sit in the closed position - they went on to design the pilots bulkhead 1.5mm too far back - i.e - aft of their cut-outs. To fix this I removed 1.5mm from the backs of the lower cockpit side wall parts and increased the hole in the floor 1.5mm further forward. The only other thing to do is then scratch build a new upper rear brace the correct length. I enjoyed the Barracuda parts but so much more needs added. The PR 1G I am making was a Mk I airframe but when it received a Merlin 45 perhaps some of the cockpit parts were upgraded? So I have a mixture really. I scratch built today an early style Regulator as you can still see these on early Mk V's. I am not a Spitfire expert but have enjoyed so far trying to make the Revell kit as good as possible, thanks John

Thanks all! Appreciate the encouragement! Here’s the process I’m using- seems to be working so far- Printed slab primed/filled/sanded with a two part epoxy primer (Thanks Timmy! For the recommendation) the leading edge goes down first. Taped to one side, and carefully bent around to the other. Remove it, and apply contact cement to both surfaces..hold your breath, a few hail Mary’s, and push it on! paper full size pattern. Cut it out and make any final adjustments grab a chunk of .005 aluminum sheet smooth it out with a big-azz popsicle stick. I smooth it on glass or machined- flat steel. Glue the pattern down with a glue stick Trim the pattern to fit while still glued to the aluminum impress the rivets with a beading tool right through the paper onto the aluminum Soak off the paper pattern in the sink, and you are left with this using the steel handle of a scalpel, smooth the rivets from the backside Smooth the whole piece both sides again. Now here’s where I break with tradition: I use 3M 77 spray contact adhesive. I have a 12 year old test mule, with aluminum panels attached to styrene with every conceivable adhesive. The 3M 77 seems to have grabbed the best it comes out of the can in a beautiful fine mist- certainly better than I could brush on. Spray the backside of the piece and give it a few minutes to set up Another deep breath, get your chakras in alignment, and put it in place- Maktub Pete

Not before time Guy, but it shouldn't take too long to get finished this time! Fortunately I bought one of the AIMS figures a while ago, should have got two or more really because they're out of stock in all the places I've checked today. Not really sure what the future is for further re-stocks with John's hand problems?

That's a big issue for me, too - not just with scale modelling, but anything. I thrive on momentum, and that's driven by a singular focus on a specific endeavour, whereby it consumes all of your productive cycles - whether that be physical, mental, emotional, or whatever. Switching away from that, even to something I love, is very difficult. And of course, once I do make the switch, I find it hard to switch back! From a time management point of view, breaking my time up into discrete chunks, each with a different task focus, would be the way for me to maximise my productivity across the ever-growing number of domains I need to cover. But in reality, my psyche can't deal with this approach, and it almost always fails. Head for your Bandai kits when you get a chance, Brian! Kev

This is my current situation, ZERO modeling MoJo. For me it's other directions, mainly our summer hobby of taking our trailer out into the wilderness for some boondocking/dispursed camping, and I find it super difficult to switch gears mentally.

Thanks Matt! I've learned a lot here at LSP and hope to keep growing as a modeler. No matter how good we think we are, there is always someone doing it better. Thanks Kevin! I do hope that this build thread is useful for people building this kit. Thanks Jay! I appreciate the input sincerely! We all have different strengths and weaknesses and I don't think my choices resonate with everyone. But we do what we are compelled to do, right? I admire your build abilities immensely so I am gratified to hear such positive comments from a model of your caliber. A sincere thank you, Chuck! Exactly! That's what makes this hobby so fun and interesting. I referred to many different builds of this kit and even of this specific aircraft and they all look a little different. I make no claims of authenticity or quality but simply present this as my personal take on this cool WW2 fighter aircraft. Ok guys... this one is a wrap! I removed the mask around the engine and added all of the rest of bits and pieces. Here's a preview while I post all of the finished pics over at the Completed Builds board... The photos of the finished model can be found at:

It has been a long time since I did any modelling after caring for my father with my family for the best part of 18 months. I bought both the Mirage 2000C and the 2000D as I have always had a soft spot for Mirages. Along the way I have collected a fair bit of AM. Most importantly at this stage the amazing Mirage crew from Reedoak, the ejector seats from Eric Jolly and the Quinta Studios 3D decals for the cockpit. I started with what I imagine will be the hardest part for me the figures as I am not figure painter. To go with the figures I also assembled and painted the cockpit. To start with we have the cockpit sides, sprayed very dark gray and black and some chipping for wear and tear. Everything was brush painted with a matt GX varnish afterwards. First off was the ejector seats from Eric Jolly - I added some additional small details (cables etc) and the Quinta seat cushions and signage. Then I got down to starting with the figures using this video as an inspiration for techniques.

Hi all! Finished in February 2019, this is my Wingnut Wings DFW C. V. It’s one of the best engineered kits I ever had the pleasure to build. I replaced the kit‘s struts with brass ones and made a prop from real wood, otherwise this one is oob — besides of the markings (the Names of the mechanics that served this plane)which are printed with my printer on clear decal film. Figures are conversions from custom available plastic figures and Hornet resin heads using green stuff. The strange fixation for the additional forward firing Lewis was made according to a contemporary photo of this machine. getting home without being shot down didn’t always mean that everything was alright… best regards, Andreas

Howdy folks, I've just published the latest What's New update. Enjoy! Kev

That is so sad. RIP to Jerry, condolences to Judy and the rest of his loved ones.

I saw your Hawk Guy and it is still one of my all time favorite builds- you did a masterful job; and I was particularly impressed with the stressed skin. OBG; I remember that article- I think the tutorial was on a 48th A-26? for this model I think several techniques will combine to create the effect. I am a “build and paint what you see” kinda guy- so each panel will likely be considered individually based on references. I think some of the panels will require the sub structure to be shaped before the skinning goes down. Others likely simply taking advantage of the inherent character of annealed aluminum - cheers P

But...but.... I've got a scan of a 40-year-old black and white picture of a 60-year-old plywood fragment that conclusively shows that RLM81 was actually nothing more than a field mix of RLM70 and 71. I demand that you accept my evidence as fact.

Seems almost a shame to put paint over all that wonderful work, but perversely, I'm looking forward to that stage.

Mr Monkey started a thread in the Vendors Board promoting his wares three years ago, here. There are an awful lot of very talented producers posting their products in there and the sponsors forums, folks should venture South and take a look!

Does every Zoukei-Mura thread here have to devolve into an airing of grievances? It ain’t right. Adam

Yes you did buy the La-5 from me. A room full of dust. What the heck are you doing! I am very surprised. Anyway sanding this resin should be done with water. I hope you are still having fun. The decal sheet makes it all worthwhile.

100% Kev! That describes my issue to a tee. I've got some Bandai SW kits around and will see about going through them...... It's worth a shot to kickstart the modeling MoJo

Yeah, because if it is/was a dark green, then it MUST be 70. Yeah, ok... The reality is that only the guy that opened the can of paint knows for sure, and he probably didn't care enough to actually read the label. D

Not likely. Monogram released an "F-51D" kit with the Phantom Mustang airplane parts in mostly silver plastic without the motors or stand. It had a small knob in the lower wing for manually retracting the landing gear (as chrish mentioned). Both kits were rereleased many times over the years. The Phantom Mustang kit was released fairly recently (5 years ago?) with a very reasonable $39.95 price tag. HTH D

I think prepping for our annual summer anniversary trip has consumed my thoughts and time. Of course I have had some time, but it's switching mental gears back to modeling that is my main problem.

For my most recent bout of this - which was really more about trying to rekindle the habit than a loss of mojo - the Bandai Star Wars kits absolutely did the trick. As Tom says at the top, they're low-risk, high-reward propositions, and unbelievably fun to build and paint. But they also make you never want to build anything else! Kev

My modelling mojo usually re-ignites (forced re-start) when it’s been out a while, after my wife tells me I’m being a pest, don’t I have something I can build, some model to work on? Then I’m back to the hobby room and find something to keep me out of her hair

I am nearing the finish line (with assembly anyway,) mainly now due to having a deadline. I have attached the wing-sweep "mechanism" cover plates, and shock to no-one, more fit issues. The leading edge by the fences popped up a considerable about over the fuselage, which necessitated a blending sand job. Additionally, due to a mismatch between said fences and their corresponding slots on the fuselage, there are large gaps left on the outer edges. I am more than willing to admit if the steps were my doing, as I glued them in place with the wings swept to the "go fast" position, and all instructions point to this bird being built in a full foward sweep configuration. I was able to reduce the amount of step on the right panel, and will further attack this once the putty on the outer edges has cured. The good part of setting them with the wings swept back is it allowed the rear sections to have the characteristic step that can be seen on the real thing. I also went ahead and attached the main gear struts, mainly to see if my work attaching the gear bays will hold the weight of this beast. To my pleasant surprise, she's able to stand on her own three legs now! I did pre-paint the areas of the intakes immediately under the struts, as painting them after attaching the legs would've been an exercise in futility. Looks like the next step is to further reduce those steps on the upper fuselage, blend all the seams, and send her off to the paint barn. I'm getting excited now that I can see the light at the end of the tunnel. I'll leave you with one fina image to further accent the sheer size of the old girl. As always, thanks for stopping by the hangar!

Bottom skin My shop buddy Cosmo is unimpressed P

Got some skin in the game- Top of right slab: .005 aluminum sheet. The leading edge went down first, and wraps around the bottom. The skin stops short of the trailing edge, because there is a small step-down there on the real jet. I’ll fair that in with some Bondo or similar. cheers Pete

Decided to pull this one from the shelf of doom and try and finish it before the end of the year as I'm fed up of it staring at me and to be honest there is not to much left to do now!. So the Eduard Brassin engine os now painted and awaiting some wiring before being mounted. Also painted and assembled the Brassin propeller ready for weathering. Its been ages since I last worked on this one as I lost my motivation due to completing the engine and the amount of open panels I had to deal with.........seemed a good idea at the time but I'm back on track now. Also want to restore the missing pictures in the build log as well as finding it a little annoying they are gone. As always comments/ criticism always welcome and thank you for looking in. Regards. Andy