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Hi All Well, I guess I am suffering a bit from "Post-Viggen Blues" - I cannot really seem to chose what to build next. I am pretty sure it will be one of my numerous F-16 projects.. In the mean time I uploaded a few pictures of, what turned out to be a productive corona-lock-down-year of Modern Jets for me. I build everything from all eras but it seems to come in waves for me. With the Border Model Lancaster hopefully arriving in a couple of months, I think 2022 will be "The year of the Lancaster" First up is the 1/32 Kitty Hawk Mirage 2000C (OOB) in a special livery. Its a really nice and detailed kit but bit of a pain to build. Next up is the 1/32 Italeri Tornado GR.4. backdated to a GR.1. - I added the Aires Cockpit, Wolfpack Seats and a set of JP233´s I had from Paragon Designs (I think) The kit was bit of a letdown for me if I am honest but it is still better than the Revell Kit. Next in line is a project I wanted to do for quite some time. It is the Tamiya 1/32 F-4E converted to an F-4G. I used the GT Resin conversion kit but that was a disaster. Very very disappointed with the casting quality of that. The cockpit tub was unusable and so was a number of the other parts. I ended up scratch building quite a bit but I like how it turned out. Weapons are from Eduard Brassin. I also found time to complete my 1/32 Trumpeter A-6E Intruder (carry-over from 2020). I know most people would fill in all those rivets but I quite like the look of them. This was my first time using the cockpit decals from ANYZ, and wow! Never again without Bombs are from VideoAviation Lastly I spent quite some time building a 1/32 Trumpeter F-14A Tomcat. I cannot have a 1/32 collection without building a VF-84 Tomcat - I was a teenager in the 80´s and this is what a Tomcat looked like I added the Aires Cockpit and weapons are from Eduard Brassin (it also has a full load of AIM-54´s). Next Tomcat I will use the Zacto Model intakes. Decals are from HAD Models ...and of course the Viggen Hope you like them Niels

Here are some photos of the anniversary event, courtesy of Mr Kuniyoshi Shigeta : These are photos of the preparation. This is Kobayashi-san, the in-house model builder. He is one of the best model-builders I know and has the best job in the world. Here are some photos of today's event: That guy pushing the ladder looks familiar! More photos were posted on Twitter (use Google Translate). https://twitter.com/volks_hobbydept Radu

Hello guys, this is my recent build and my first helo kit finished. Simple almost OOB build, with Eduard PE set used mainly for interior and RB Model mini guns Easy assembly and good overall fit of the parts. Painted with MRP paints and finished with MIG and Ammo pigments, shaders and panel line wash. Hope you like it jan

The Boeing F/A-18E and F/A-18F Super Hornet are twin-engine, carrier-capable, multirole fighter aircraft variants based on the McDonnell Douglas F/A-18 Hornet. The F/A-18E single-seat and F/A-18F tandem-seat variants are larger and more advanced derivatives of the F/A-18C and D Hornet. Let me present to you the 1/32 Revell F-18E hornet, with reed oak figures painted with Hataka paint set.

AIMS 1/32 Mistel 3 update...hi everyone. Putting the washed out RLM 76 clouds on the fuselage took a bit of planning - I wanted to match the photos of Ju 88 G-10 W.Nr. 460065 as best as possible and so used a pencil to first mark where I wanted them and in doing so confirmed my suspicion that the Balkenkreuz is further forward than on any of the other G-10 Mistel 3s. Also thanks to the amazing book Captured Eagles that I got the other day you can see from the photos of the Ju 88 G-7 W.Nr. 240145 - that the clouds were painted on before the wings / wing spats were added so that meant some difficult masking off so that they appear behind the kits spats. Once the washed out 76 was applied to the sides and wing leading edges I started the RLM 75. The wing was masked off and then latter when the flap RLM 75 was dry the landing flap was masked off so that I could get a mis-match of patterns very clearly seen on sister ship 460066. The Mr Paint RLM 75 is very dark just like real fresh 75 as seen in the photos of these new-build G-10s / Mistel 3s. Another major step completed.

Thank you sir! I have the station right, I just fine tuning the face angle, I think I am there In the meantime I have been back at work and so progress has slowed. Although to be fair, this bit is tedious. So I am building up the rib structure in the wheel wells ready for plumbing. All the rear face is done, the ends and just the front face to go. These ribs take ages Mounting ring for the undercarriage legs marked out and positioned. More on that later... Upper wing test fitting, seems to all interlock well Needed a change of pace so fixed the size and shape of the bulge above the U/C pintle There is still a lot of corrections and details to add to the upper surface, but I better get back to this lower wing before I get to that. But it was a nice change of scenery! As always chaps, thanks for tuning in Anthony

I was going to attend the Zoukei Mura event in Tokyo today, but Japan is closed to foreign visitors due to Covid. This is a big anniversay, 10 years of Zoukei Mura and 50 years of Volks. May they keep going strong! Radu

Thanks again boys. Got the two side exhaust sets done, but I'm not happy with the spacing after I finished them. After going through my documentation, they should be in two close groups of two, not evenly spread out: You can see here what it should look closer to, although mine will likely be a closer set of two so the exhaust ends will give some support to each other: Unfortunately, I did the starboard side of the starboard engine just like it. I didn't take any pics of my screw up, bit needless to say I'll have to redo the 8 exhaust pipes on the two side ports of the starboard engine. Oh well, at least these 8 won't be as bad since I'll only have to change them slightly to get two sets of two. I also got the top exhaust set of the starboard engine done as well, but this time modified them as they should be, closer together: I've now got all the exhaust pipes built for the starboard engine, and now just need to modify the 8 side pipes and will have one 1/2 of the exhaust pipes built in initial configuration. Onward and cheers!

I made some progress during the work week, mostly to the radio and battery area. This was fun as hell to work on. Next up is the K-14A gun site.

The well-known trumpeter kit with the following after market accessories Cockpit by red fox Static dischargers by Master Decal stencls by Begemot Wheels by Armory Pitot tube by Master Mask by Montex Enjections seat by Quick Boost Antenas by Quick Boost Detail set by Aires Nose cone by Zacto models Colours by AKAN

Happy weekend folks It's been a busy week back at work and today was the first time back on the bench First of all the the basic shape of the exhaust scallops were marked out with a pencil and the blisters highlighted to be sanded off later. New panel lines were added and a small square access hatch scribed. The basic shape was cut out backed with plasti card, angled tiny triangle wedges also added. Time for a smooth and a blend. Still more blending required but I can definitely see some progress here, the fuselage half on the left requiring more so the the right

This weekend, I have been adding the fiddly bits of paint. It's fiddly mainly because of the masking. Dull bits... Shiny bit... Dull but shiny bits... Some very minor touching up required around the wheel well, which I call a result. My next task is attaching all the dangly bits on the undercarriage. All those very small, fiddly, parts is making me tremble and sweat already! Until next time...

Jetmads 1/32nd scale Viggen. What can I say? An impressive model. Very well engineered and very well presented! Resin is brittle, so careful handling required at all stages. Camouflage, it had to be done in fields and meadows! was achieved with Humbrol enamels and a lot of masking tape! I have always loved this aeroplane and now I have one in 1/32nd scale, well I am very, very happy. Thanks for looking Angelo

We now have what I consider top of the mark kits of: P 51D, A6m2, A6m5, F4u, F4u1a, Spitfire Mk VIII, Spitfire MkIX, Ta 152, Skyraider, Raiden, and now, the P 40B along with this Me 109 and seemingly soon to be released Fw 190. That is a pretty good lineup of single engine kits.

One more

I am! Its like working on my car.............when I'm behind it I get exhausted, but its better than being in front of it and getting tired!

Hi all, Yesterday Brendon Deere was kind enough to host me at his Biggin Hill Historic Aircraft Centre, located at RNZAF Base Ohakea and allowed me to see his P-51D project up close (as well as put up with a lot of questions!). This aircraft, 45-11513/NZ2423 is one of several RNZAF surplus aircraft that were bought and preserved by the late John Smith of Mapua] in the 1950s-60s, among their number being a DH Tiger Moth, two P-40 Kittyhawks (one now being restored to fly), a DH Mosquito FB.VI which has been conserved in running condition, and several literal tons of parts for many other aircraft. This was widely publicised] as a "barn find" following John's death in August 2019 but had been an open secret worldwide among warbird enthusiasts for many years. John was very reclusive and publicity shy but many people were fortunate to be allowed into The Shed to take a look at this truly remarkable collection. Here's a look: Brendon Deere is well-known in New Zealand for restoring and operating Spitfire Mk.IXc PV270, painted in the markings of his uncle the Battle of Britain pilot Al Deere, as well as an ex-RNZAF Harvard and a Grumman Avenger wearing wartime RNZAF markings. I was very pleased to hear that Brendon had been entrusted with Mustang NZ2423 by the Smith family, not just because I've known him since 2004 but also because Ohakea is less than an hour's drive from my home! The aircraft was also based at Ohakea for almost all its RNZAF service between 1952 and 1957. When I visited work was underway: Pete Burgess was focused on pipes for the recently-installed oil radiator and Joe Deere was working on the windscreen side glazing. Brendon and Pete said that as a restoration project the Mustang is a lot more straightforward than the Spitfire was. John Smith saved as much as he could from the scrappers over the years and as such they've had to source very few parts from outside what came from Mapua - they have multiples of many parts, such as six canopies and eleven undercarriage legs! Besides what you see in the photos below there's also a shipping container with countless spares yet to be inventoried. Brendon said the fuselage is structurally complete and the systems/plumbing work is now underway. The wing, being restored by Odegaard Wings at Kindred, ND, is about 2-3mth from completion and the engine (restored by Vintage V-12s at Tehachapi, CA) was recently run for the first time since 1957. As of her final flight on May 30 1957 airframe and engine total time was 260hr 55min. She's being restored in her original single seat condition - the fuselage fuel tank is fitted, the radio rack is awaiting refurbished sets to be installed, and she will fly in 2023 with bomb racks and rocket rails, painted in Number 2 (Wellington) Territorial Air Force markings. All of the pipework you see in the photos is original, as is the radiator and much of the hardware. It will be one of the most original Mustangs flying anywhere when complete. It's all rather exciting! If you're keen to see more I have all the photos I took (including the other aircraft in the two hangars) on my Flickr account.

Omg this is torture!! I want 1 of each to go please

From their Twitter feed.

Hi all, The observers twin Lewis machine guns assembly is now done. I replaced the kit supplied weapons with 'GasPatch' weapons. This required modifying the kit supplied gun mounting and adding both the cross bracing between the gun handles and the spreader bar between the breach blocks. The gun mount spindle is 0.4 mm diameter tube located through holes drilled in the gun mounting lugs. The handle cross bracing is 'EZ' line (heavy) routed through 0.3 mm diameter holes drilled diagonally the the ends of the handles. The twin bungee lift cords around the gun support tube are also 'EZ' line routed through 0.4 mm diameter holes drilled through both sides of the tube pivots at the base ring. The spreader bar between the breach blocks is 0.4 mm diameter tube. Just the two windscreens to go and the model itself is complete. Then it's onto the figures, Mike

A few decals added. Another "splash of green". Hopefully resume next week,

Ah, Friday again and here is a small update again. Moving on After finishing that splinter cammo one would think that the model is all but finished but no. Now it's about making the canvas ready.... everything up to this has been a transport distance and there are more to do before it is time to breath life to the model and give it a soul. It's a serene moment when you move on to the small stuff. First off is to paint the regulator and you also see the edge of the cover that shuts the reverser slits in supersonic flight. I begun with masking I masked the fin tip as well. Then I shot Alclad Gloss Black Base I use Alclad Airframe Aluminium to get that shiny base that I can work with The next step was to shoot Alclad steel and then remove the mask. I shot Alclad Gloss Black Base on the fintip and the nose cone. Then I bettered the intake lips with Alclad white aluminium I'm thinking of leaving this beauty spot as is in fact you will find lots of these on real Viggens too....the paint shop wasn´t manned with modellers There you go Next on my to do-list are the black edges on the wings and fins, fix the forward radarsensors, do some bettering painting here and there and from there move on to the wheels and struts. Cheers!

Hello all I brought this one across the finish line just before New Years but I only had time to take some pictures now. (For the Photo Geeks amongst us, I used a Canon EOS 5Ds with a 24-105mm L lens and a 80x80x80cm lightbox) The kit was my first full blown resin kit and it was a little intimidating to say the least. Up until now I did not enjoy using large amounts of CA glue but it has been a good experience. The fit is overall very good, especially between the 3D printed parts. It is a big heavy model but the landing gear (3D printed as one piece) is very sturdy and supports the model very well indeed. How great is it to have a 1/32 JA37 Viggen! - now bring on the Draken!! Enjoy /Niels

What you see in the photo of the kit parts is just a display for today's event in Tokyo. As I aleaready mentioned, some parts are not shown. Please wait until the kit is issued for a more complete idea of what is on the runners. There will be more announcements from ZM in due course. Radu

I cant always take the credit mate, there are a lot of very knowledgeable people out there who have shared their awesome knowledge with me. So I am passing it on so others can benefit their builds. I am doing a lot more than I envisaged myself! Thanks Phil, I appreciate that coming from a man of your skills. That Tamiya Mustang engine and cockpit on your build is looking awesome! Thanks cees, but I LOVE your Toom and your build over there has really inspired me to push on, I do like the cammo scheme you have chosen, very nice. For some reason I cant log in to comment on your build as I am logged out and cant recover my password. I think I must have used an earlier email address when I set my acct up as I dont even get a reply from the reset... Thanks guys, appreciate your feedback immensely! This turned into a bigger challenge than I thought it might be. But much of that is my own doing. I dont really need to rebuild the wheel wells, or aux air intake lower door interiors, and no one will probably ever notice the lower nose contour, but I am enjoying it too much not to get it right now. Watch out soon as our own awesome @Gene K has just finished making up the outer wing stiffening plates that were so prominent on the lower wing sections. I cant wait to show you his work...thank you sir, I am indebetted for your research and skills to produce a 'late mod' outer wing panel structural set that was on the Brit Tooms! Going to BBQ up a bacon and egg breakfast for the family as its a stunning morning here. Just as long as I dont set myself on fire like I did once before LOL Cheers guys Anthony

No Richard, it’s an H2S dome. H2S was a navigational aid, a beam was emitted which bounced back off the terrain into a receiver which showed a “map” of the ground beneath and to the side of the aircraft. It was particularly effective over terrain which was a mixture of land and water - large lakes, rivers etc. Not always very popular with some squadrons because of a belief that the Luftwaffe could home in on it. This is a closer look at the dome, the scanner inside obviously, on a 214 Squadron Fortress.

Let's NOT get into that. Let's stick to the subject: the very good looking Me 109G.

This pic shows the exhaust on the inboard of the outer engine of a Lancaster just below the wing, while in the background you can see the exhaust of the outer engine in relation to the wing: Jari

Some more photos from the event preparation at their Twitter channel:

Flaps. Sanded and with filler smeared over some problem areas. In Situ. Revised tank with pylon. Regarding the shape issues as noted before, I went to Tommy's blog and copied his drawings into Fusion 360. The shape of the tanks is now as close as I can make it. Fins to be added from sheet plastic. Dan

AIMS 1/32 Mistel 3 update.... hi guys, started to get the green tint on. The Mr Paint green RLM 76 is super thin making it a very bad choice of mine to have used a black primer underneath as I am using litres of the paint to get it covered - does not look like a new build airframe at all sadly. Anyway the shade is a fraction weaker than what I really wanted and so I might blend it all in with some Tamiya 'Smoke' and that might help the over-all appearance. Enjoy

i assembled the seats and added some lower belts on the seat cusion beause there were non these seats only resmble the real thing up to a point, bit i will close the canopy anyway and hope for the best

The OA-4M has a different front IP which was 3D printed - on my old Photon back in the day. The part would look better on a 4K or 8K for sure, but those were not yet available back in the day. The photo nicely shows the difference between a part printed flat (on the left) and a part printed at an angle. Eduard offers very nice and useful PE parts for the Trumpeter kits. Whilst I was too stupid to use the ones for the slat recesses, I managed to fit the vortex generators on the wings and slats. They are a huge improvement over the rather rough kit details. After a bit of tidying up, the model was primed and painting could start. As usual, I have used FS36375 and FS36325 from MRP; unlike most TPS Scooters, the aircraft I am building does not seem to have FS36495 undersides. This is the aircraft I'd likle to build - BuNo 154306, one of two TPS Scooters with black markings, flown by MAG-32 in 1990. Sadly, there are very few photos of these aircraft - there are only three I know of, including this one (Official Navy photo - source: Wikimedia Commons). All markings will be painted using custom masks. I'll need decals for some small details.

Finally finished! Project 19. 1/32 Zoukei-Mura model, Yahu instrument panel, Barracuda wheels, Eagle cals, Painting mask homemade, All colours MRP

Hello In my previous thread, I presented my new Mk IX => https://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?/topic/92040-spitfire-mk-ix-tamyia-132/ As I said, I had some idea to recycle the old Mk IX.... I found out that the AA Production conversion kit for a Mk XIV could be adapted on the Tamyia Model... Well... this needed some surgery but it ended up being a Mk XIV. First, I removed some stuff : the engine (obviously...), the rudder and the elevators. I also removed some of the canopy and the landing gears to protect them. (The windshield was reluctant to go, so I left it to not break it...) Next step, unpacking the chainsaw.... to remove the VTP and the tips of the HTP Then we can install the new vertical tail plane (it is much bigger on the griffon engined Spits to compensate the enormous torque of the beast). Removal of both radiators to instal the bigger ones... I also installed the new tailwhell compartement... then the big part : the nose... that was not easy and I gave it a lot of thinking before doing anything... in the end I decided to use the old Mk IX engine cowls to join the fuselage with the new front resin part. Some (a lot) putty and sanding later... Then I engrave the panel lines on the nose, applied a layer of surfaced and removed the old decals ont the rest of the A/C Then painting and decaling... i used leftover decals so I had a very limited choice in letters and numbers of the S/N. This A/C probably never existed. On top of that I wrongly installed the letters in the right side.... anyway, here is the beast

Hi, Something a bit different, but a dream machine: what else?! … and a Large Scale! Tapping, cutting, drilling… Studs and gasket Preparing, checking, testing… Few parts of the alternator. Voilà. Pascal

A nice top view of a Lanc on a daylight mission: bomb doors are open, turrets looking for a possible threat from the starboard rear quarter, oil stains on the tailplane with a replacement elevator among the details. Jari

I had one distant and badly focused photo to use as a reference for the rear cockpit electronic equipment, and I used it to scratch build some electronicsey looking stuff. Recently I was provided some much better photos by a Draken insider, so I used this new information to print a new one-piece equipment part. It looks like there is a fuel tank in the rear cockpit and the electronics is installed on racks above the tank. This was the first time I tried to print wiring bundles and I'm surprised it actually worked. The key is to orient the part in the printer such that the wires can grow mostly vertically. In this case I tilted the part at a 70 degree angle in the slicer. Here's a photo of the older scratch-built part and the new printed part. The new part still has some support material to remove and needs to be cured in UV. -- Dave

This week on the Block 1 Boxer CRV was more printing in the background, plus ongoing design work to get parts to production standard. Here are some more images of the rear drive module + mission module print, this time on inch square grids. The commander’s independent sight is visible bottom left, with a 1:87 version of the prototype front centre. A view of the right side of the big print. The addition of a “filament run out” feature on the printer removes the stress & wastage associated with having to have exactly enough filament on the roll at the start of the print. As anticipated, the printer ran out of filament in the first third of the print. No stress, reload the printer head with new filament and hit go. In regards to wastage, here’s the unused lengths of 1kg/2.2 pounds of filament. Those squares are 10mm x 10mm. The details of the roof of the Block 1 mission module differ from that of the prototype/hand finished Risk Mitigation Activity trucks. References are thin on the ground. The RMA one is bottom left of this collage, with the very German green that is like neon in the Australian bush. Lots of work to do! Thanks for checking in.

Maureen Dunlop are really argentinian, Like 4,000 other pilots from that country who flew in defense of the United Kingdom. in the British cemetery of Buenos Aires there are many of the urns of their remains, some great combat aces, such as the black knight of Malta, group captain Kenneth Langley Charney,Spitfire Ace born in Quilmes too, Buenos Aires, like Maureen. https://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maureen_Dunlop_de_Popp you can see the history in )set subtitles in your language, include a interview of a Pilot survive (Born too in Quilmes, 105 YO!!!!) boyfriend of Maureen after the war. alive and kicking, Ronnie, the ex boyfriend more

Ah, the good old days before we had all these nice AM replacements - kudos to you Kev! And thanks for the kind words Mark and Jeff. So, just as I was feeling like I was making progress towards closing things up, I went to cut the flaps from the sprue and was confronted with this. Yep, six - count 'em - six bloody great ejector pin marks in each flap. And nope, they're not there on the real thing. It's not just the number of them, but the inconvenient location for filling and sanding. This isn't the first time on this kit there have been badly placed ejector pin marks - fortunately newer Tamiya 1/32 kits seem to be much better thought out. If I'd noticed this earlier I might have rethought the whole flaps down detailing idea... Anyway, here we are now. I've decided the best filler for styrene wherever possible is...styrene! I cut sections of 1.6 mm styrene rod and placed them into the ejector pin marks. Tamiya Extra Thin was then run in, the plastic given a few seconds to soften, then pressed down with the butt end of a cocktail stick so that the molten plastic filled the mark. I'll let this harden overnight then sand down with my David Union tool. Cheers, Kirby

Your imagination is the only thing limiting your choice. If it doesn't work, then you've learned something. Move on and try something else. Copper wire, no matter where it's sourced from, will work. Generally the insulation is stripped off the wire but can be left on in spots to represent joints and joins to larger diameter flexible tubing. I am referring to single conductor copper wire.... stranded copper wire still works but you use the individual strands rather than the entire wire, unless you're specifically attempting to replicate a wire bundle in scale.

Those exhausts do look challenging, Brian. You must be exhausted! Kev

i briefly thought about changing the seats to aftermarket, but there is no way any resin seat will fit into the tub without major surgery (i tried CAM and HAD seats) i dont know how the Verlinden update sets quality is and it costs more than the kit, so i reminded me in time that i just wanted to assemble something first i shot the bluegreen (self mix) that looks green or turquoise depending on the sun the gearbays were shot radome tan that is very close to the colour i see on the real thing

The painting has begun. After laying down the first coat of primer, I discovered a few areas needing attention. Once those areas were addressed and re-primed, I started spraying the dark earth. I'll get it finished up this weekend then start on the dark green. Thanks for looking in.

Thanks, @MARU5137 , glad you’re enjoying it. Cheers @BiggTim, thanks for the feedback. I’m using Fusion360 for the design, Luban for the slicing, & Snapmaker to print the larger components. The print of the back end of the vehicle weighs 950 grams/2 pounds! Cost of 1.75mm filament is $25 a kilogram/2.2 pounds, so the current bill of materials cost is $23.75. The front end is currently 13% printed. As can be seen from the screenshot in the slicing software, its dimensions are 181 x 115 x 249mm/7.1” x 4.5” x 9.8 “. Thanks for checking in.

AIMS 1/32 Mistel 3 update....Hi everyone, started painting the fuselage/wings. As with a number of other G-6's, G-10's and even a finished G-7 fuselage you have a massive tonal difference between parts with the lighter shade being used also to break up the darker shade along the fuselage and leading edge of the wings. It is really academic whether the darker shade is an undocumented green shade of RLM 76 or old stock of documented chemically unbalanced 65 - I do not really care as I am more concerned simply with trying to replicate the contrast. I always thought, and have always illustrated on decal sheet instructions that the clouds must be a bright RLM 67 Weiss, never stopping to think that it was washed out 76 and the area behind it was darker than normal. Well anyway I have started and am enjoying it. The next step will be to mask off the washed out 76 subcontracted parts and then spray the greener shade. I hope you like the contrast and if you are familiar with the two photos of Ju 88 G-10 W.Nr. 460065 then perhaps you will more appreciate what I am trying to do. Thanks for looking and taking an interest

Hi Craig, The Milliput was smoothed slightly with a damp cotton bud, but then it just a case of gentle sanding as there was a small step along the lower join to eliminate. The wheels were designed and produced by a friend who's a bit of a whizz when it comes to 3D design and printing. Tom

Hi guys, This is the first post of the new year. A belated happy new year to all of you! Filling and sanding took more iterations than anticipated. This is the result: I'm happy with that. Because the cockpit is sparse, the canopy will be closed. The resin ejection seat of Scaleworx had to be painted. After sawing the pouring block off, the seat was test fitted. It sat correctly below the canopy! It was painted up to look like this: And installed into the cockpit: This is the complete cockpit of the kit, with the only addition the resin seat. There is a reason this old mould is retired. It is worn out. This is the visor: The burr was removed and clarity restored. These are the forward nose wheel doors: Some excess plastic needs to removed here as well. Unfortunately, this also means a poor fit of the windscreen and the canopy: Remedial action will be required to make it all fit. The windscreen will be easy: first fill the gaps with Kristal Klear, then paint anthracite, then fill with acrylic putty, which can be wiped away with a damp finger or cotton bud. The canopy will be more involving. I started gluing some plastic strip to its edges... To be continued! Cheers, Peter

Not a lot to report, but it's a new day. But I decided in the interests of getting the wheel wells done nice and cleanly I would cut this part out of the fuselage paint Mule Trim neatly to fit This being the result....much tidier I think? Now I think I can continue on (both sides now done) and add rib detail Lets see what today brings, but my wife thinks I am neglecting some jobs around the house that need tending to before I go back to work...... Cheers Anthony