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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/04/2021 in all areas

  1. Hi all, my first entry here is an ICM I-16 type 24 with eduard PE parts. It was my first step into large scale WW2 modelling, so I thought this would fit as a first entry. Those corn plants took me longer than the whole plane. Meanwhile I know that this very plane never was flown by a female pilot, but back then I didn‘t care. It just looked cool… . I hope you like it. best regards, Andreas (Borsos)
    9 points
  2. I´ll make a new start on this kit and hope I can finish her in time! I can´t find my old tread so I´ll repeat the last post I made before "The Big sleep". Hi All! The inner pylons on the wings glued in place, the outermost are still waiting… The whole aircraft is primed Black (Alclad Black Microfiller) and finally I´m satisfied with the seams! The wheelbays painted with British Interior Green (Hu.78) as Trumpy suggested and I had no better suggestions myself, so that will do. Looks OK to me…. The metal landing gears painted Aircraft Grey (Hu.196) and glued in place…. The large front doors are always closed while the arircraft is on the ground, but Trumpy designed them to be open on the model! The left door fitted OK, only a small gap to fill, but the right hand door was 2.5mm too small! I happend to have a pack of evergreen strips of the correct width at home! …and as tradition on this kit, some sanding of the doors to get all to blend in…. …finally on her own legs! ...and now the story can continue...… MARU found the missing link to my earlier tread, Thanks mate! https://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?/topic/78846-sukhoi-su-25-frogfoot-a-trumpeter-132/ Stefan
    8 points
  3. I just wanted to let everyone here know that the references database just hit the 6,000 titles mark. Many thanks to all who have contributed, it's a really cool milestone for the site to have attained.
    8 points
  4. Phartycr0c

    JetMads 1/32 Viggen

    Well butter my parsnips! its arrived! damn my impatience!
    8 points
  5. Ho-229 Horten This is my first Zoukei-Mura model that I built. I admit that I do not understand the very good opinions about this set. In short, the set fits very badly. I made wood panels partly using decals and painting them.
    7 points
  6. Have to say, can't put a gloss coat or shiny NMF on an operational warbird, just doesn't look right to me. I think if i were to do this as a restored warbird, the gloss would be appropriate. Did manage to complete this one, happy with the results. Don
    6 points
  7. Excellent work all round on a fantastic milestone. Next year will, with any luck, see some long-overdue updates and improvements not just to the Reference section, but the entire website. Kev
    6 points
  8. navyjet

    A-4F Skyhawk

    Today's photos: I've got the part to a level I've wanted, next I'll do the next parts and put them on. After that I'm going to take them off and add the next layer of details and put them on again to check them, then take them off add the next layer; you get the idea on and off until I'll get dizzy, until they will be ready to stay in place for good. So I guess I'll see you next year
    6 points
  9. Well, here we go again! Been planning this one for some time and after the latest hiccup on the Prowler, I pulled the Hobby Boss B-24 out from the closet. The box is huge. The model is massive. This should be fun! Goal is an inflight display, likely with the bomb doors open too. First a bit of background. All my grandparents passed before I was born. But I had a tremendous Great Aunt and Uncle that treated me like their own. Jim Genoff was a Radioman/Waist gunner in the 15th AF. To say I looked up to him was an understatement. He passed away in 1990 and I've always wanted to build his plane. Have built several over the years, but all had little issues that I wasn't happy with. When the Hasegawa kit came out, I built it...but then I discovered photos of his crew's plane that meant that I had to go big! Here's some pics of the 1/72 scale model. Here is the complete display. You can see his wings and Air Medal that his wife gave me when I got commissioned. One Air Medal for completing 35 missions over Europe from July 1944-April 1945. Multiple trips to Ploesti, Vienna and a whole host of the hottest targets in Europe. About 2 years after I built it, I ran across this photo. If you look closely--just fore and aft of the nose gear are little fairings with antennas. It's the APY-2 Carpet Jammer that were used to jam German gun laying radars. So I did a little digging and it turns out that he was actually an EWO. In the 15th AF, Radiomen got extra training on these jammers and that became part of their duties on the crew. Color me floored--he was doing Electronic Warfare a full 50 years before I got my start! So that'll be something that gets added to this model. If you want to know about the 461st Bomb Group, they've got a tremendous website, run by the son of the Group Commander. https://461st.org/ One of the things I love about B-24s from the 15th AF, is the crazy tail markings they carried. The 49th Bomb Wing had the red tails, with either rectangles, circles or a bow--they all flew out of Cerrignolia, i.e. Foggia in Italy. I highly recommend Barrett Tillman's "Forgotten Fifteenth" https://www.amazon.com/Forgotten-Fifteenth-Crippled-Hitlers-Collection/dp/1621574040/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=forgotten+fifteenth&qid=1638651249&sr=8-1 I know Barrett, and this is one my favorite works of his. It's an incredible book about an important part of the air war over Europe. Did I mention they flew to some nasty targets? How about this pic of a 451st B-24 cleaved in half over the Odertal refinery in Germany. My Uncle came home from the war and was a very successful Attorney, and they traveled everywhere as a family. But they always drove--he never flew again. As I've done research over the years, I kind of understand why now... So on to the build pics. I built the tailfeathers over the last 2 days. Fit is amazing, and the plastic is nice. There's some heft to this assembly. Shot it with Tamiya AS-12. Love everything about it--dries rock hard and is impervious to everything. One of the reasons I love AS-12 is that it looks just about perfect for heavily weathered and dull aluminum. The fields around Foggia were known for their austere nature. The winter of 44-45 was particularly bad with snow. When it melted turned the fields into a muddy mess. Check out these pics of mud covered B-24s. I'll be replicating that too! And some last parting thoughts. How do I know that's his plane? I don't, but am about 99% sure. His crew was #15 in the 464th BS. So when searching through the 461st website, they have the mission flimsies from most of the bombing mission the group flew. When searching through those, I could track what airplanes they were in. This one came up a lot. I also remember my uncle telling me a story about they'd gotten a new bomber which was 'super nice' because it had the enclosed waist windows (which I'll be building). Except that shortly after they got it, flak knocked out the window and he actually completed his missions before it got replaced. It was shot down on the very next mission it flew after the window was replaced--he departed for the states that week. It was the last plane lost by the bomb group in the war, in April 1944. So when I saw those details on the website, coupled with his story, I figured the odds are pretty good that this was 'his' B-24. Have no clue what I'll start next. Probably start converting the waist windows to the enclosed type. Need to figure out how to make the Martin A3 turret for the upper turret. I'll grab some of the Cold War turrets for the nose/tail. Also have to make bulged windows for the navigator as those were a 15th AF special modification. It also looks like I'll have to modify the bombardiers windows. B-24s are confusing BTW! Have no idea if I'll tackle the wings, or leave them as-is. Might tape them together to see how 'bad' is bad. (or maybe not, I don't know if want to know how big she'll be). Also won't be fixing the props as I'll just show the prop hubs to simulate a spinning prop. Will have to buy aftermarket tires too, just so they'll fit in the wheel wells. Also need to figure out 10 bomber crewmen figures... Obviously going to be a slow build, but wanted to share--don't see to many of the Hobby Boss kits being built. And of course the Prowler is still going, I just had to get after this urge! Thanks for following along and listening to my rambling -Peter
    5 points
  10. Hi all, Following the recent release of their 1/32 SPAD XIII c.1 (early) and the impending release of the (late) boxing, I've read on WW1AircraftModels that Roden is to release a Strutter mid-next year and an Avro 504 at the end of 2022 in the same scale. I feel this video accurately surmises my feelings on the latter subject.
    5 points
  11. Overall good kit, but not from "finest" Tamiya models shelf. Intakes are unfortunately totally wrong. Used addons: - resin exhausts - Aires intake plugs - Eduard photoetch inside cockpit / plackards
    5 points
  12. Work has continued on the back end, finishing up the carbon fiber shrouds and moving on to the inner petals. After painting the ring cowl/hex screws in "steel" (really should be labeled "polished metal") and giving the fiber another gloss coat, I called the shrouds good to go. Next up, the inner petals. I began by adding a light base coat of flat white. I then hit the forward section and raised petals with a coat of Gun Metal After that, I gave the whole assembly a light coat of Jet Exhaust Burnt Iron. Not happy with how the white sections turned out after that, I resprayed those sections with another light coat of white. All that's left to do is give the assemblies a light wash of Sepia to stain the petals that weird rust color the ceramic gets from heat staining. As always, thanks for stopping by the hangar!
    5 points
  13. I've had this one hanging since earlier this year..... time to get her done
    4 points
  14. Windy1978

    The Lightning challenge

    Hello I am a long time lurker and now I have decided to take the plunge and do my first large scale forums work in progress post. This is my first and probably biggest project planned for 2022, the Echelon 1/32 F2A/F6 EE Lightning. I bought the kit many years ago as a started and incomplete box of bits missing it's decals and instructions with the intention of combining it with the 'new' Trumpeter kit at the time (oh how stupid was I). Having decided not to proceed with that project it has been sat in my loft and ignored awaiting a time that I have the skills and drive to build it...... So gave up waiting to get the skills but I have now the drive to build it. I do intend to scratch build or 3D print the missing parts and use a vinyl cutter to make masks for the marking (stencils are going to be a problem as Xtradecal stop producing their decal sheet). I am going to use this thread to assist my efforts Mozart's build. Wish me luck
    4 points
  15. europapete

    WNW SE5a

    The top decking and gas tank are just dry fitted for now, still more stuff to add yet. So that's it for today, as always comments suggestions and thrown cabbages always welcome. Regards, Pete in RI
    4 points
  16. europapete

    WNW SE5a

    That is a Gaspatch Vickers gun.
    4 points
  17. 4 points
  18. Stokey Pete

    Tamiya F-15E

    I got the intakes installed and fuselage halves sewn up. That goes to on side for now while I tackle the nose section. I’m pretty much going for a ‘let’s get it done approach’, not going to be doing a whole heap of work to it beyond what is required to get it finished. Some cockpit and ip progress I’m always on the lookout for finding ways to build with less seam cleanup. Previous experience has shown me grief around the nose/fuselage joint. So, with that in mind, I’ve cut a few locating tabs etc, to build the nose section like this… and lastly, I thought I’d put a close up of the exhaust section. You can see the minute level of detail that’s been moulded. Incredible. Picking it outs gonna be interesting.
    4 points
  19. We have it in stock: https://spruebrothers.com/tam60315-1-32-tamiya-f-16cj-block-50-fighting-falcon-viper-60315/
    4 points
  20. KiwiZac

    Avro Anson vacuform

    Anson? Cool. Vac? Very cool. That cockpit structure? AWESOME! I'm following this one for sure. I've been very fortunate to see Anson Mk.I MH120 perform at several airshows here in NZ and apparently its interior has been restored to such detail that even the pencils at the nav station are period-correct! I was never an Anson fan until her restoration. Rides are available...
    4 points
  21. Oh wow, finally a 504!!!! very happy with that Ron
    4 points
  22. OK, steadily working toward finishing up the center wings. Next are the flap installations (inboard and mid flaps). Flaps are going to be up on this beast, as that is the way they almost always are with the aircraft parked on the tarmac. Nothing special here, top side: The rivet dimples were missing from the larger inboard flap, yet are already there on the mid flap. So I drilled the hundred or so drill starts per flap. It is the bottom side that was more interesting. I don't know about the Tamiya kit, but other F4U kits that offer flaps up or down as an option mess up on the "flap gap covers". Flap gap covers you ask? The Corsair has "drop hinge" flaps. That is to say the hinge line is below the lower contour of the wing. Mustangs, BTW, also have simple hinge flaps, but Mustang flap hinges are inside the wing contour. So drop hinge flaps, when deployed, not only rotate (50 deg at full down for the Corsair), but translate aft relative to the fixed wing. This creates a gap between the nose of the flap and the aft edge of the fixed wing, a gap in which air flows through, making the flap a more effective slow speed devise. To "clean up" the gap, hinged doors are provided that rotate inside the wing as the flap deploys, by way of slaved mechanisms. Here: That picture compliments of Dana Bell volume 7. Note how the flap gap covers are right on the lower wing contour with flaps up, providing a smooth uninterrupted surface. Without those covers, the gap is rather messy and not conducive to good air flow, as this picture of a Corsair fixed trailing edge shows: All those blue ribs need to be covered with flaps deployed. Picture compliments of Vultures Row Aviation. So what of the mess-up? This toy, and also the 1/32 Trumpeter Corsair I built a while back, provide for flaps deployed or flaps up, but the flap gap covers are always in the flaps deployed position. So if the modeler chooses flaps up, he/she is left with a big gap in front of the flaps on the lower wing surface, which isn't supposed to be there. 21CT: Trumpeter 1/32: That isn't right. So I set out modeling flap gap covers that are in the proper position. And at the same time, I created hinge fairings that the toy is missing entirely (but Trumpeter, as you can see provided after a fashion). Here: Just stiffened plastic sheet stock for the covers, and whittled down plastic block for the hinge fairings. If it looks like the edges overlap, that is because they do. I don't know why, but that's the way it is supposed to be. Now for the other side. And then it is on to the landing gear lower struts, the brake lines, and the shrink mechanisms. That will be rather involved, but a big milestone. And then, the wings get buttoned up - a huge milestone. Stay tuned!
    4 points
  23. Absolutely worth every penny, the surface detail it's Tamiya-like and fit is just flawless. You need to rework the instrument panel and add a parachute to the seat, plus several switch consoles and fabricate civilian thread tires. There than that, this is beauty. You get, what you pay for as they say.
    4 points
  24. Part two Hmmm...the canopy and windscreen looks pretty alright....but they can still improve! Out with the Tammy fine compound! The windshield is polished...you can see the difference between the canopy and the windshield. After both were polished I washed them in fingerwarm water and detergent to remove dust, oils and leftovers of compound. Then I took a shot! Nah, it´s a mixture of future/klear with a 1/5th windex. The windex makes the future flow evenly. And I dipped the clear parts until I was happy And this is how crystal clear the got I always dip my clear parts, not only because the get so clear but for it´s protective properties as well....and it doesn´t fog up by CA-glue. That´s all I got for you today! Cheers!
    4 points
  25. For many a long year the main / only show in town for this iconic tank . This is the third time I've built this one , and was bit of a "fun" build and to play around with pre and post shading , most of which doesn't come though in the pics. We now have numerous AFV Club Versions ( my Mk 5 / will become MK 11 is slowly grinding along), Amusing Hobby's direct copy of the AFV but less "good bits " ( no metal barrel , clear parts , or separate tyres with the strengthening ribs , or any parts to make other versions etc ) . Putting the MK V WIP next to the MK 3 , the MkIII correctly has a slightly shorter hull . Having more than a few Cents knocking about , I "upgraded" the Tamiya with an AFV Club 30 cal and rubber tracks; the front drivers hood bin on the glacis from the AH kit; some resin stowage and odd scratched metal bits . Apparently in Korea , Brits used them to bolster infantry positions , generally on the mountain tops , where the 20lbr would "snipe" during the day , and the North Koreans bombard back at night , hence bins track guards etc getting blasted off with fair regularity . Simon Dunstan's primer book "British Battle Tanks Post War 1946-2016" has some interesting reminiscences.
    3 points
  26. Well, added some weathering. Next is legs and tanks and other small stuff.
    3 points
  27. 3 points
  28. 3 points
  29. I really hate rivetting and rescribing but it's definitely necessary. Running my RB productions rivet wheel along some tape made fine impressions in th eplastic. Not as deep as the ICM sinkholes but okayish. I checked the result with a black enamel wash. Starboard is a little bit more messy but the cowl will be dark RLM71. It's starting to look like a Buecker: Two details on the road to the paint booth. Opening up the exhausts. They're as on every ICM kit not hollow not even a little. And the pitot got a little attention as well. Drilling wasn't an option, so I added a brass tube and two 0.2mm copper wires for the cables you can see on the real Jungmann. and 32 times smaller: That's it for now. Next photo will be with the black base on
    3 points
  30. I used aircrew from PJ Productions for my Tornado GR1 build a couple of years back. They were pretty good apart from the need to tweak the leg and arm poses. To get them to fit.
    3 points
  31. chrish

    1/72 DHC Dash 8-300

    kind of stalled, or slowed, while I contemplate how to proceed with a couple of little problems. I've decided to work on a tangent working on the flight deck and props; I have tried to represent breaker panels and tech. on the cabin bulkhead and am using the bottom of the coaming to make a roof panel, the coaming doesn't fit where it was designed to go and I'm trying to make a new one out of .005" sheet. Visible here and, I'm not sure if it's prototypical but the sloping down sides of the instrument panel is asymmetrical. Thanks for looking
    3 points
  32. I use an H as well and have for ions. I have an Iwata Eclipse but I’m saving that for my next Luftwaffe mottle project.
    3 points
  33. Great news indeed! I've wanted to see a 504 kitted in 1/32 for a long time.
    3 points
  34. 3 points
  35. RLWP

    Hawker Hunter J-34/F.50

    A fuselage balanced on trestles to show off the etched brass access ladder Richard
    3 points
  36. Hello all, This is my attempt at the Revell kit with Quickboost exhaust, Eduard set and HGH Seat belts Paints: model master and AK real colors. This was the first-time using AK paints since I cannot get the model master any longer. With that said, I really enjoyed using the AK and have started to buy more. The decals came from one of the Kagero books. I also riveted the skin. Thanks for looking. Rod
    2 points
  37. I feel very silly - I saw this news at the WW1AircraftModels forum and did not attribute this scoop to them! I've just added that to my post.
    2 points
  38. It's a aspect of aero modelling I like. When you know how something works, you can spot details on aeroplanes: Separate tubes that go up the strut, through the wing and down the cabane strut. They have to bridge the join for the detachable upper starboard wing, so there are loops with a joint Richard
    2 points
  39. I reworked the exhaust. It's not perfect but it's more convincing.
    2 points
  40. I hope so Maru, if it wasn't for the pandemic I'd be visiting NZ next year and seeing, possibly flying on the Anson, was on my bucket list. She differs from my build in that she has the later all-metal wing whereas mine is wooden + fabric, but the internal shots are excellent reference material.
    2 points
  41. One of several Iwata brushes are currently on my wish list, just haven't sprung for them,... yet. I use my H and VL brushes to good affect though, and they've never let me down yet. Here's one my dream machines.
    2 points
  42. Watching this build evolve is a lesson in how complicated the real Corsair was. I cannot imagine what it must have been like to be an 18 year old who didn’t want to be there to begin with trying to work on all this stuff out in the boondocks in the middle of monsoon season on some island in the Pacific. The mind boggles - what on earth were the Vought engineers thinking when they came up with some of this stuff?
    2 points
  43. Aptivaboy

    SBD advice

    Thank you for everyone's help and for your kind words, whether via the forum or the personal messaging system. I lost my Mom a year ago and have been in a funk ever since. I sold my house and moved back to Mom's place to help out with the animals and the finances. Its been... odd, strange and surreal all at the same time. My mom raised my sister and I alone after Dad died in Vietnam, and somehow we never thought we'd lose her. All I can say is hug your parents while you can. Okay, sob story mode, "off." Thank you again. I'll do this SBD as a tribute to my friend Tom Doll. Many of you have read his books on Naval Aviation colors (https://www.amazon.com/s?i=stripbooks&rh=p_27%3AThomas+E.+Doll&s=relevancerank&text=Thomas+E.+Doll&ref=dp_byline_sr_book_1) He was one of the first to really research the subject back in the sixties and seventies while working for Lockheed, eventually in the Skunk Works. He had some fun points to make about Area 51 ("There are no damned aliens there!") where he worked while on the F-117 project, and I miss his emails greatly. Take care all, Bob
    2 points
  44. Iain

    Mike McEvoy - RIP

    Iain
    2 points
  45. Hi I just got a Honda ultrasonic cutter. Is it absolutely required? No. Is it cheap? Unfortunately no but it has a lifetime guarantee. I got one with a power plug. There are cheaper ones with a battery but I avoid such tools as much as possible as their expected life time is always shorter. The test results: it is really useful to avoid resin dust and is a marvelous tool to clean very easily 3d printed parts, to cut heavy plastic sprues and to remove without damage very fragile plastic parts out of the sprues. This is a hefty investment but if you can get one do not hesitate.
    2 points
  46. YES....continious sanding and filling! The sanding continue... This is the state after todays sanding session... After sanding another coat of primer.... looks better but there are still small holes and defects. Oh yeah and that corner of the right wing root that have snapped at some point. Well that leaves me with another round of filling.... out with the tammy putty again! OK, I have to do something else than sanding and filling or I´ll nuts! End of part one
    2 points
  47. Had some spare time, was able to apply a panel line wash. I usually use Promodeller wash, but for some reason, it didn't work well. Didn't settle into panel lines, was a little grainy. This is an old bottle, may have been reason. I used a homebrew wash instead. Solution of Tamiya XF-1 Flat Black, Tamiya XF-10 Flat Brown, water, and dish soap. I've used this mix a lot before, still worked flawlessly. Everything sealed with Vallejo Matt Varnish, much closer to dead flat than other matts i've used. Running out of parts, may have this done tonight/tomorrow. Don
    2 points
  48. Hello all!! Have to confess, been doing a terrible job of participating, life been getting in the way. Did manage to glosscoat and apply the decals. They did silver a bit, are a little thick but the white in the stars/bar is translucent and off register, and did a so so job of settling in. In other words, use aftermarket or masks!!! Managed to get overspray on the instrument panel. I think the canopy got hit, too...yippee...
    2 points
  49. Yup!! They're stripes, how hard can they be?......Can't imagine doing a P-38 with the rads on the tailbooms...Managed to get the blue down late yesterday. This is Testors Model Master Acryl Midship Blue, 4206. This was in the Marine paint line, might not be available, now. Have to say, the Tamiya mix given in the Mustang kit is a great match as well.
    2 points
  50. So "Cripes a mighty 3rd" it is. First time doing invasion stripes, looked real simple to do, but they took about 3.5-4.0 hours to lay up and paint!! Moving on to the blue, now. There are a LOT of these builds on line plus pics of warbirds in these markings and there is a great variance in the blue used!! The Tamiya kit gives a mix for the blue to use on Petie 3rd. Looks good to my eye!! Found an exact match to the mix in a Testors Model Master Acryl colors 4206 Midship Blue 1/2, will decide which to use. I'll lay down a primer of white first, then apply the blue. Don
    2 points
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